Église Notre-Dame-des-Victoires
water fountain in front of the Hôtel de Ville
Winter Pursuits and Cold Comforts
the Terrasse Dufferin.
The province of Québec is a place all its own: It’s a country within a country with its own traditions, architecture, and language. Perched on a cliff above the St. Lawrence River, Québec City is the soul of the province—the first city to be founded in Canada, the seat of the Québec government, and the self-proclaimed “Capitale Nationale.”
The historic landmarks and 17th-century architecture are captivating. But what will impress you the most is the infectious energy that the people exude. Temperatures drop below freezing in winter, but bars and restaurants are still packed, windows steaming with that unmistakable joie de vivre.
You can still walk the narrow, cobblestone streets of Vieux-Québec’s Lower Town or pose next to one of the many cannons that line the city’s walls. But a youthful revolution in the old working-class neighborhoods is bringing a daring new quality of art and culture to this historic city.
Les Fortifications surround Vieux-Québec’s Upper Town, a 400-year-old neighborhood where the history of the winding streets and the original architecture remain safe from the ravages of time. These walls protect the Château Frontenac, Québec City’s most famous sight, and the Séminaire de Québec, one of the city’s oldest sights.
The stone Normandy-style buildings and cobblestone streets of Place Royale mark the country’s birthplace. History is unavoidable here, from the narrow lanes of Quartier du Petit-Champlain to the historic Vieux-Port, with its converted warehouses, antiques shops, and boutique hotels.
view of Vieux-Québec’s Lower Town
Just outside the city’s fortifications, you’ll find the Parc des Plaines d’Abraham, the site of France’s historic defeat by the British. The seat of the provincial government is to its north, housed in Hôtel du Parlement. Running alongside the government building are the nightclubs and bars of La Grande-Allée, the city’s nightlife destination. Also in the Plains of Abraham is Musée National des Beaux-Arts du Québec, which holds the largest existing collection of Québec art.
Once working-class neighborhoods, Saint-Jean-Baptiste and Saint-Roch are now trendy, bohemian neighborhoods, home to the city’s coolest kids, and the area where you’ll find the best bars, browse independent boutiques, and catch the latest bands. It’s also a major arts hub, and the contemporary arts complex Méduse is located here.
In the areas surrounding the center of the city, find kid-friendly destinations like the Aquarium du Québec and the beautiful, sprawling gardens of Parc du Bois-de-Coulonge. The slopes of Mont-Sainte-Anne are fun for the whole family.
Less than a half-hour drive from the city, you’ll find Chute Montmorency, an impressive natural wonder, and the picturesque towns of Île d’Orléans and Côte-de-Beaupré (home of the massive Basilique Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré). An hour north, the Charlevoix region has some of the most spectacular scenery in the region.
Though summer is the busiest time to visit, it’s also the best time to explore the city’s neighborhoods, and you’ll get to experience fun summer events like the Festival d’Été du Québec.
It’s no surprise that prices drop considerably October-April, so if you can handle a bit of cold, your pocketbook will thank you. Québec City winters can be particularly freezing, but December-March is an ideal time to visit if you love skiing or other winter recreational activities. October is especially pretty thanks to the changing fall foliage, and even February has a couple of bright spots with the Carnaval de Québec’s unadulterated celebration of snow.
All visitors must have a valid passport or other accepted secure documents to enter the country; even those entering from the United States by road or train must have these documents.
Citizens of the United States, Australia, New Zealand, Israel, Japan, and most Western European countries don’t need visas to enter Canada for stays up to 180 days. U.S. permanent residents are also exempt.
Nationals from South Africa, China, and about 150 other countries must apply for a temporary resident visa (TRV) in their home country. Full details can be found at Citizen and Immigration Canada. Single-entry visitor visas are valid for six months and cost $100, while multiple-entry visas last for up to 10 years, as long as a single stay doesn’t last for longer than six months, and cost $100. A separate visa is required if you intend to work in Canada.
If you’re arriving by air, direct flights are available to Québec City’s Aéroport International Jean-Lesage de Québec, which is about 15 kilometers from downtown. The best way to get to downtown is by taxi; a public bus connects downtown with the airport, but it runs during the early morning and late afternoon only.
If you’re coming by train you’ll arrive at Québec City’s Gare du Palais near the Vieux-Port. Those arriving by bus in Québec City will also arrive at the Gare du Palais.
Québec City’s transit system is limited to buses, but they are fast and efficient in getting you up those steep hills. Taxis are useful when the winter hits, though they can be hard to flag down, depending on the area. Although driving the city streets is straightforward enough, if you’re not used to ice and snow, it’s better to leave it to the pros.
Four days is the perfect length of time to visit Québec City, allowing you to dedicate enough time to experience the city’s historic center with a few side trips.
Drop off your luggage at your hotel in Vieux-Québec’s Upper Town, then head directly to Café-Boulangerie Paillard for some fresh croissants. Browse the shops and historical buildings on Côte de la Fabrique until it brings you to Terrasse Dufferin in the shadow of Château Frontenac. Snack on a beaver tail pastry as you stroll the promenade and look out over the St. Lawrence, then head into the château for a guided tour.
Tour the historic Citadelle and then wander through the winding streets and alleys of Upper Town.
For dinner, take your pick of the restaurants along rue St-Louis or splurge at Le Champlain. After dinner, walk along Les Fortifications and finish the night at a boîte à chansons, such as Le Pape-Georges, or with a nightcap at the cozy Bar Ste-Angèle.
After breakfast at Crêperie Le Billig take L’Escalier Casse-Cou or ride the Funiculaire du Vieux-Québec down to one of the oldest streets in North America, rue du Petit-Champlain. Browse the independent boutiques and follow the cobblestone lanes, which will eventually lead you to Place Royale. Take a peek at La Fresque des Québécois and see if you can point out the famous characters. Whether you fail the test or not, head to the Musée de la Civilisation and brush up on your history. If the weather is nice, head up the external stairs of the museum and take a quiet moment to relax on the rooftop terrasse.
Château Frontenac viewed from Lower Town
No matter where you are in the province or how low the temperature drops, you’re never far from serious outdoor fun.
• Baie de Beauport, just outside of the city, is a great place to canoe, kayak, sail, or play beach volleyball.
• Parc des Plaines d’Abraham is the place in the city to run, walk, bike, or even swim. Come winter you can cross-country ski, ice skate, or snowshoe.
• A 20-minute drive out of the city will bring you to the bird-watching and hiking heaven that is Cap-Tourmente.
• Corridor du Littoral follows the coast of the river and is ideal for cycling day trips.
• Domaine Maizerets is great for biking, skating, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and tobogganing.
• Some of the best skiing in the country is just an hour’s drive away at Le Massif.
• Ski station Mont-Sainte-Anne is busiest throughout winter, but in summer, the area offers camping and mountain-biking trails.
• Parc de la Plage Jacques-Cartier, just outside of the city, offers picnicking spots and 2.5 kilometers of hiking trails.
• Parc du Bois-de-Coulonge, the residence of lieutenant-governors 1870-1966, is a sprawling park, easily accessible from downtown. It offers hiking, self-guided tours, beautiful gardens, and impressive river views.
Parc du Bois-de-Coulonge
• Parc Linéaire de la Rivière Saint-Charles, with 32 kilometers of trails to choose from, offers opportunities for biking, rollerblading, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, and ice-skating.
After visiting the museum, head west along rue St-Paul to browse antiques stores. Or skip the stores and take the well-hidden rue Sous-le-Cap until it brings you to Galerie Madeleine Lacerte. Check out the latest exhibit and then cross the street for a drink at Taverne Belley and watch the locals playing petanque.
On your way to Saint-Roch, stop to admire the graffiti murals on the highway overpass, then head for a bistro dinner at L’Affaire Est Ketchup. Cap the night off with a show at Le Cercle.
Have a hearty breakfast at Le Petit Coin Latin, then head to the Fontaine de Tourny and take a trip around the statues at the Hôtel du Parlement. Stroll the rolling hills of the Parc des Plaines d’Abraham and make a stop at the Tours Martello. Continue through the park all the way to the Musée National des Beaux-Arts du Québec. After seeing the latest exhibit, grab lunch at Morena on avenue Cartier.
Follow Cartier south, down the sloping hill, and take a right on rue St-Jean, where you can spend the rest of the afternoon popping in and out of stores and drinking coffee at the many cafés. Don’t miss J.A. Moisan, the oldest grocery store in North America, or the quiet shade of St. Matthew’s Church and Cemetery.
While you’ve got the European vibe going, why not continue with a French wine and regional cuisine at Le Moine Échanson. After your meal, head over to La Grande-Allée for a taste of sophisticated nightlife at Le Charlotte Ultra Lounge.
Head down to Cyclo Services and rent bikes for the day. Pack your bags with sandwiches, goodies, and perhaps a bottle of wine from the Marché du Vieux-Port and then take the Corridor du Littoral, heading northeast 12 kilometers to the impressive Chute Montmorency.
Chute Montmorency as seen from the suspension bridge over the falls
Leave your bike and follow the path closest to the falls and cool off in the mist. Climb the stairs to the top for a view of the falls and mythic Île d’Orléans. After you’ve taken in the view, go for lunch on-site at La Terrasse du Manoir, then get back on your bike and return to the city.
Ride about nine kilometers southwest and make a stop at the historical Domaine Maizerets park. Unwrap your picnic dinner and enjoy it among the ancient trees and lily-pad ponds. Then, get back on your bike and ride another three kilometers back to the city. Once there, leave the bikes at the rental place and head for a late-night stroll around the Vieux-Port. Finally, treat yourself to a pastry or gelato at a shop in Lower Town—you’ve earned it.
Head back to your hotel for a good night’s rest before leaving the next morning.
For a short, romantic getaway, Québec City is considered one of the most romantic cities in North America. The winding cobblestone streets, classic New France architecture, and overall charming ambience have a tendency to bring out the amorous side in visitors. But nothing seems forced about it—instead, it carries its romantic status quite naturally.
Check into your suite at the plush Auberge Saint-Antoine and then go exploring along the cobblestone streets of Quartier du Petit-Champlain. Stop for a coffee or a cool drink on the corner terrace of Lapin Sauté and be charmed by the traditional music of street performers. Head to Place Royale and check out the small but beautiful chapel in Église Notre-Dame-des-Victoires.
view from the Lapin Sauté patio
Life in Québec City completely changes once winter hits. And though it might seem like the perfect season to hibernate, the mounting snow is no excuse to stay indoors. Whether you’re in the city or the country, there’s a variety of things to do when the mercury drops.
• Drive an hour north to Le Massif, the highest ski mountain in the province. The ski runs offer 49 different trails and have the most breathtaking views of the St. Lawrence River.
• Bundle up and head to Château Frontenac for some serious winter sledding down the Glissades de la Terrasse Dufferin.
Glissades de la Terrasse Dufferin
• The sweet treat known as tire sur la neige (maple syrup frozen on snow) can be found at just about every corner come winter.
• A typical après-ski meal of raclette is the perfect end-of-the-day fare. It can be procured in the cozy confines of restaurant Le Petit Coin Latin.
• Carnaval de Québec, which takes place between the end of January and early February, is two weeks of outdoor fun, from snow sculpture competitions and outdoor dance parties to dog-sled races and canoe races over the icy St. Lawrence River.
Browse antiques and galleries on rue St-Pierre and rue St-Paul. Stroll among the boats and quays of the Vieux-Port, then head to Quai Chouinard and board the Croisières AML boat Louis Jolliet for one of their many cruises—ranging from a 1.5-hour sightseeing cruise to a four-hour, five-course meal cruise featuring fireworks.
From the river, enjoy views of Chute Montmorency, Île d’Orléans, and the city, perched on Cap Diamant. If you didn’t opt for a dinner cruise, toast to your good health with some bubbles at the on-board bar.
Breakfast at Chez Muffy and then take the Funiculaire du Vieux-Québec to Terrasse Dufferin. Snap the requisite shots of Château Frontenac before taking the stairs at the far end to the Parc des Plaines d’Abraham. Stroll through the park to the Musée National des Beaux-Arts du Québec. After browsing the largest existing collection of Québec art, pick up some gourmet treats at Les Halles Cartier, then grab a cab to Parc du Bois-de-Coulonge. Picnic overlooking the St. Lawrence River, then wander the grounds, and don’t miss the arboretum close to the shore.
Hail a cab back to Upper Town and shop the independent boutiques along rue St-Jean. Freshen up back at the hotel and cab it to your reservation in the glass dining room at Le Saint-Amour. After dinner, take a moonlight walk through the streets of Upper Town, stopping to admire the view at the Parc du Cavalier-du-Moulin. Then grab a cozy nook at the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac’s 1608 Wine & Cheese Bar for a nightcap.
1608 Wine & Cheese Bar in the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac
Rise early and drive to the base of the Chute Montmorency, about 20 minutes outside of Québec City, where you’ll board the Train de Charlevoix for a leisurely trip upriver. Take in the stunning views of the Charlevoix region and the St. Lawrence from this luxury locomotive. Disembark at Baie-Saint-Paul, check out the modern and ecofriendly hotel Le Germain Charlevoix Hotel & Spa before exploring the town’s cultural heritage at the many galleries and artisanal shops. If all that walking makes you thirsty, grab a local microbrew at Le Saint-Pub.
Hop back on the train, heading 40 minutes farther north to the majestic Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu in La Malbaie for an overnight stay. Located on the banks of the river, it’s one of the prettiest spots in the region and a perfect place to kick back for the night. When you’re settled in your room, relax next to the outdoor pool and get a massage at the in-house spa.
In the evening have dinner at Vices Versa, and get a taste of the local cuisine.
Total distance: 3.5 kilometers (2.2 miles)
Walking time: 55 minutes
This walk is designed to give you an introduction to three of Québec City’s neighborhoods: Upper Town (Haute-Ville), Parliament Hill and the Plains, and Lower Town (Basse-Ville). Québec City is inescapably hilly, and this walk includes hills, slopes, and steps. If you have minor mobility issues, it would be a good idea to set aside more time for the walk. Visitors with more significant mobility issues should cut the first section of the walk and begin, instead, at La Citadelle.
Start at the monument of Samuel de Champlain, who founded Québec, on Terrasse Dufferin. In front of Champlain, you’ll get a great view of the St. Lawrence River. To your right, you’ll see the Château Frontenac. Walk south along the boardwalk for about 220 meters, keeping the St. Lawrence on your left. At your feet, you’ll notice skylights peeking down at the relics of Vieux-Québec’s barricades.
Walk to the end of the boardwalk and take the stairs going up. There’s a brilliant view over the St. Lawrence as well as Upper Vieux-Québec and Lower Vieux-Québec here. You’ve reached the east end of La Citadelle, a 300-year-old star-shaped fortification that is still an active military base. Zigzag southwest along the trail at the edge of the Citadelle until you reach a small access road, Côte de la Citadelle. Here, you can enter the Citadelle to take a guided tour if time allows. Look southwest—you’ve reached the edge of the Parc des Plaines d’Abraham, site of a historic battle between the French and British in 1759—before continuing 225 meters down Côte de la Citadelle until you reach rue St-Louis.
When you reach rue St-Louis, turn left. You’ve reached the Saint-Louis Gate, one of the original gates in Les Fortifications. Stop to snap a selfie with one of the wall’s green-capped turrets. Turn around and proceed northeast for two blocks until you reach rue Ste-Ursule. Hang a left at rue Ste-Ursule and, then, half a block later, stop and take a peek down ruelle des Ursulines, an alleyway—it’ll appear on your right. Vieux-Québec’s architecture is quite impressive; take a moment to collapse time and imagine yourself in the age of the town’s founding.
Saint-Louis Gate
Continue following rue Ste-Ursule to rue Ste-Anne. Take a right. Walk one block until you reach a T junction with rue Cooke. On your left, you’ll see St. Andrew’s Presbyterian Church (built in 1810). St. Andrew’s, the site of the oldest English-speaking congregation in Canada, is also home to an impressive organ, 19th-century stained-glass windows, and a moderately quirky layout: Its pews surround the pulpit in a semi-circular formation. This church’s original congregants were military men, mostly from the 78th Fraser Highlanders, who fought, most famously, at the Battle of the Plains of Abraham.
Turn right at the T junction and take an immediate left onto rue Pierre Olivier Chavreau. Walk one block, and then take Côte de la Fabrique right. Take Côte de la Fabrique one block until it loops around and meets rue de Buade (you’ll pass rue des Jardins on your right). Turn left at rue de Buade and walk 20 meters: look to your left and you’ll see the Basilique-Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Québec (1647, 1759, 1922) on your left. This church features a number of build dates as it was bombarded and torched in 1759 during the British siege and burned down again in 1922. The seat of the Catholic church in Canada, this church is stunning and ornate and features three Casavantes organs, as well as a crypt where over 900 people are buried. Be sure to visit both the church and the museum.
At the end of the block, rue de Buade reaches a T junction with rue Porte Dauphin/rue du Fort. Take a left onto rue Porte Dauphin, passing the monument of Monsignor François de Laval, a statue commemorating the first Roman Catholic Bishop of Québec. Take an immediate right onto Côte de la Montagne. In 20 meters, cross Côte de la Montagne and enter Parc Montmorency, a small park and national historical site that is home to a handful of cannons, statues, and monuments. Walk 30 meters to the ramparts at the eastern edge of the park for another view of the river. Exit the park the way you entered and continue down Côte de la Montagne for about 100 meters. You’ll pass under Porte Prescott (another one of the city’s gates) before you reach a set of steep wooden stairs—L’Escalier Casse-Cou—on your right. This is one of the most iconic spots to take a picture of Québec City. Take L’Escalier Casse-Cou down to the Lower Town.
You can avoid L’Escalier Casse-Cou and take the funicular instead. When rue de Buade reaches a T junction with rue Porte Dauphin/rue du Fort, take a right onto rue du Fort instead of a left onto rue Porte Dauphin. Walk one block and head left to the Funiculaire du Vieux-Québec, 40 meters away.
At the bottom of L’Escalier Casse-Cou, turn left onto rue Sous-le-Fort, part of the Quartier du Petit-Champlain, one of the city’s most picturesque neighborhoods. A block away, turn left onto rue Notre-Dame. On your right is Église Notre-Dame-des-Victoires (1687-1723). Follow along the side of the building to take a gander at its stained-glass windows, its front entrance, and the Place Royale. This church is quaint, small, and warm; if you’re visiting in early January, be sure to join the congregation for the Feast of Sainte-Geneviève. Take a moment to enjoy, as well, the historic Place Royale, where Samuel de Champlain first founded l’Abitation de Québec in 1608.
Place Royale
Walk an additional 50 meters down Rue Notre-Dame to reach La Fresque des Québécois, a giant mural full of important historical city and provincial figures. Retrace your steps back down rue Notre-Dame one block past rue Sous-le-Fort and take a right onto rue du Cul-de-Sac. Follow the curve of rue du Cul-de-Sac 50 meters until you reach a T junction with boulevard Champlain. Take a right. Walk 15 meters until you reach a set of stairs, L’Escalier du Cul-de-Sac, on your right. Look upward (but don’t climb!): You’ll be looking up at the massive, imposing Château Frontenac, where you began your walk.
Continue an additional 20 meters down boulevard Champlain until you reach Le Cochon Dingue on your right. Open daily from morning to night, it’s a great place to stop and have a meal (you can never go wrong with steak frites)—and a glass of wine.
