1608 Wine & Cheese Bar at the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac
Parliament Hill and the Plains
Saint-Jean-Baptiste and Saint-Roch
Pub Saint-Patrick.
Look for S to find recommended nightlife
S Best Place to Find Your Sea Legs: With 50 different cocktails and an interior that makes you feel like you’re drinking in the captain’s cabin, Bar Ste-Angèle will soon have you swaying with the ship (click here).
S Best Terrace: With cocktails in mason jars, imported beer on tap, and a large patio that looks onto the old walls, Le Sapristi is your go-to for alfresco drinks (click here).
Le Drague
S Best Place to Curl Up by the Fire: Located in a corner of the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac, the 1608 Wine & Cheese Bar is a cozy, circular spot offering perfect cocktails and great date-night vibes (click here).
S Most Incomprehensible Good Time: You might not understand the lyrics to the songs sung at Le Pape-Georges, but the energy at this boîte à chansons is infectious (click here).
S Best Dance Club: The sheer size of the dance floor and variety of music at Le Maurice will keep you dancing all night long (click here).
S Best (and Only) Place to Smoke Indoors: With its walk-in humidor and selection of over 200 cigars, Société Cigare lets smokers enjoy their stogies in dignified surroundings (click here).
S Best Microbrew: La Barberie is socially and environmentally conscious, so you can down your tasting selection of eight beers guilt free (click here).
S Best Place for a Retro Night Out: Pitchers of beer are served in watering cans at La Cuisine, which cooks up full-on dance parties that rage on well into the night (click here).
S Most Authentic Québécois Tavern: Taverne Jos Dion is one of the oldest bars in the city. Head here for the live accordion music and stay for the cheap beer (click here).
S Best Drag Show: Gay bar and nightclub Le Drague is nothing but unadulterated fun, and the dance floor is always packed with people letting loose (click here).
Québec City might be known for its historic sights, but it has a distinctive nightlife scene as well. Though the rejuvenation of the Saint-Roch neighborhood has led to new venues and interesting bars, La Grande-Allée remains the epicenter of the city’s nightlife, with dance clubs and bars chockablock along the strip. The late-night scene, however, still lacks a certain amount of diversity. Sure, you can always catch a band or find a place to dance the night away, but the selection can feel limited compared to most major North American cities. Nightlife here tends to stick to the neighborhood bar, where you’ll find the city’s true ambience.
One facet of nightlife specific to Québec is chansonniers (singer/songwriters). These folk singers perform in boîtes à chansons (intimate nightclubs; literally, “music boxes”). Deeply entrenched in Québécois identity, the boîtes à chansons give singers and songwriters a platform to sing about their heritage and experience—they first rose in popularity shortly after World War II. Famous chansonniers have included Félix Leclerc and Raymond Lévesque, who became homegrown stars in the 1950s. The “music box” format is popular today, and there are venues in the city dedicated solely to supporting emerging songwriters, who sing both old classics and new material. Those looking for a uniquely Québécois experience should make time to check out one of these performances, even if the lyrics remain something of a mystery.
Montréalers love to antagonize Quebeckers by calling their city a “town,” and though it can feel small at times, that isn’t always a bad thing. When the city comes alive at night, it’s in the numerous small bars and taverns in neighborhoods all over the city. The clear standout neighborhood for many travelers will be Saint-Jean-Baptiste and Saint-Roch, where youngish Quebeckers have opened pubs and bars for every taste. Even in the deepest of winter the bars are packed with Quebeckers socializing over pints from local breweries. Many of the bars also feature regular live music that ranges from jazz trios to local rock acts, and if you feel like dancing, chances are you aren’t alone—it doesn’t take much to get the city’s population out of their seats, even if there’s no actual dance floor.
Those in the mood for neon lights, thumping bass, and big crowds should head to La Grande-Allée, the city’s biggest boulevard, which is full of historical buildings that have been converted into bars and dance clubs. The legal drinking age is 18 throughout the province, and this is the place where teens can be found reveling in their newfound freedom. If you’re in search of an LGBTQ-friendly place to cut a rug, head over to Le Drague, the city’s gay club, for some guaranteed fun.
When looking for a place to pop into for a nightcap or to hear some local music, don’t be afraid to wander along quiet side streets or go beyond the old city walls—it’s in these places that you’ll find the most authentic ambience and the most affordable beer.
| Vieux-Québec’s Upper Town | Map 1 (tap here) |
Situated in the Hôtel Clarendon, the Charles Baillairgé Jazz Bar, named after an architect whose plans helped construct much of Québec City in its early days, continues the jazz tradition originally started here by L’Emprise. Found on the street level of the hotel, the large, open-concept bar with low lights, bucket chairs, and a small stage makes for an intimate atmosphere. With jazz groups playing every Friday and Saturday, the stage has hosted such legendary names as Diana Krall and John Zorn and continues to be a showcase for Québec’s emerging and established jazz musicians.
MAP 1: 57 rue Ste-Anne, 418/692-2480, www.hotelclarendon.com; 8pm-11pm Fri.-Sat.; no cover
Cocktails come in a rainbow of colors and a multitude of flavors, including Red Devil, Blue Angel, and Kamikaze. With 50 cocktails to choose from, which you can get by the pitcher, they all start to become tempting after a while. They also have an extensive selection of imported beers and scotch. The bar is designed to resemble the cabin of a ship; there’s a lot of heavy woodwork, tiny windows, and mini tables. Small and often packed, it’s the perfect retreat when it’s super cold or rainy out. Live jazz plays Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights.
MAP 1: 26 rue Ste-Angèle, 418/692-2171; 8pm-3am daily; no cover
Owned by the team behind burger joint Les Trois Garçons, Le Sapristi is a much-needed breath of fresh air. Located in a coveted corner spot on St-Jean just inside the old walls, Le Sapristi serves up delectable mixed drinks in old mason jars. On tap you’ll find local brews alongside European staples like Newcastle Brown Ale and 1664 Blanc. The crowd is mostly full of twenty- and thirty-somethings, many of whom stop off for an after-work drink. Stone walls, rustic but nicely finished wood tables and chairs, and a newly refurbished copper ceiling pull the whole casual vibe together. If you get hungry, they also serve some mean pizzas and charcuterie plates. In summer there’s not one but two terrasses to choose from, one out front offering a great view of the Saint-Jean Gate and a larger one around the side that’s perfect for whiling away the hours with friends.
MAP 1: 1001 rue St-Jean, 418/692-2030, www.sapristi.ca; 11:30am-3am daily; no cover
Featuring two fireplaces, this bar, located in the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac, is an ideal place for a romantic winter evening. They serve upscale snacks and some of the best cocktails in the city—they specialize in featuring signature cocktails from hotel bars like the Savoy (Corpse Reviver) and the eponymous Hotel Georgia, and they also nail the classics. Though the dress code is technically casual, you won’t feel out of place if you spruce up a bit. Choose a seat at the bar, or find a two-chair nook if you’re looking for a more intimate evening.
MAP 1: 1 rue des Carrières, 418/692-3861, www.fairmont.com/frontenac-quebec; 4pm-midnight Mon.-Fri., 2pm-1am Sat.-Sun.; no cover
Part sports bar, Le Bistro Plus offers free peanuts, pool tables, and a small dance floor where things get hopping if there are DJs—or if the crowd is lively enough. This spot is also a good place to catch the game—they broadcast important hockey, football, and MMA events. Bar snacks include grilled cheese and chicken wings, and though you can’t go wrong with a draft beer, their spicy Caesar (a Bloody Mary variation made with Clamato juice) is also worth a try.
MAP 1: 1063 rue St-Jean, 418/694-9252; 11:30am-3am daily; no cover but some nights feature ticketed events
Pub Saint-Patrick
Bar Ste-Angèle.
If you like beer, then you’ll love Pub St-Alexandre. It’s the English pub of Québec City, with mahogany paneling, big mirrors, and an “olde British pub” facade to prove it. Pub St-Alexandre has been here for more than 20 years and offers the largest selection of beer in the province. More than 250 beers are available, mostly from Ireland, Britain, Germany, and Belgium. They also carry a selection of 40 single malts. It’s a hangout that attracts both locals and tourists. If you find yourself confounded by choice, the servers are all beer experts.
MAP 1: 1087 rue St-Jean, 418/694-0015, www.pubstalexandre.com; 11am-3am daily; no cover
Pub Saint-Patrick is hard to miss, with its ideal location and large, usually packed terrasse full of students, tourists, and professionals still in their suits after work. Inside this bustling pub is some fascinating architecture. The building dates back to 1749, and several rooms are made completely of stone, featuring vaulted ceilings. Once used as barracks during the French regime, they are now some of the coziest places to sip a pint of Guinness. Imported beer is a specialty, and you’ll find Harp, Kilkenny, and Smithwick’s on tap, as well as an outstanding scotch selection. The food is standard pub fare, made a little slowly, so it’s not the best place to bring an appetite.
MAP 1: 1200 rue St-Jean, 418/694-0618, www.pubsaintpatrick.ca; 11am-3am daily; no cover
| Vieux-Québec’s Lower Town | Map 2 (tap here) |
It’s easy to miss Le Pape-Georges, one of the best and only boîte à chansons bars in Vieux-Québec’s Lower Town; it’s hidden down a little back lane, off the popular rue du Petit-Champlain. Though it calls itself a wine bar, the crowds don’t come here for the selection of wines, ports, and microbrewery beers alone. They come instead for the ambience of this welcoming bar, located in a historical house built in 1790. The patrons gather around small tables and huddle up against the stone walls to hear the songs of chansonniers (folk singers) and jazz bands. While you listen, snack on some Québec cheese and charcuterie, or a pot-au-feu in the winter.
MAP 2: 8 rue du Cul-de-Sac, 418/692-1320; 11:30am-3am daily summer, 4pm-3am Mon.-Wed., noon-3am Thurs.-Sun. winter; no cover
Right next to Place Royale, L’Oncle Antoine is one of the best-looking bars in Vieux-Québec. Located in the cellar of one of the oldest buildings in the city, it dates back to 1754, and the vaulted brick ceilings and walls make you feel like you’re hanging out in an old bunker. In wintertime, a raging fireplace gives a unique ambience and keeps things cozy. Fifty different beers are on tap, including local specialties like Fin-du-Monde, and bar snacks like hot dogs, nachos, and hearty French onion soup are also available.
MAP 2: 29 rue St-Pierre, 418/694-9176; 11am-1am daily; no cover
Located in Hôtel Belley, Taverne Belley looks out over the marina and the farmers market. In the summer, the outdoor terrasse attracts everyone from office workers to cyclists looking for a refreshing drink and a rest. Opened in 1933, it has daily specials, including free billiards on Saturday nights. True to its name, the Belley is really all about the beer, and there are a number of imported and local microbrews available. There’s also a large selection of wines and port to sip next to the fireplace as you take in the warm wintertime ambience.
MAP 2: 249 rue St-Paul, 418/692-4595; 7:30am-midnight daily; no cover
| Parliament Hill and the Plains | Map 3 (tap here) |
This former lounge has transformed itself into a boîte à chansons, complete with stage and stage lights bright enough to make even the most amateur of open mic performers feel like a burgeoning star. It’s a few steps down into this club; luckily, there’s usually a hostess waiting to usher you down from the street. Once in the club, it’s all red lights and, as the name suggests, red curtains. There’s ample floor space for spectators to stand and watch the show, or you can take a seat at one of the many tables that line the walls. If live music makes you hungry, you’re in luck; they also have a burger menu.
MAP 3: 1147 ave. Cartier, 418/977-6843, www.rideaurouge.ca; 4pm-3am Mon.-Fri., 5pm-3am Sat.-Sun.; free-$20 cover
With its stone arches and low ceiling, this boîte à chansons has a cozy albeit cave-like feel. Located in the basement of what used to be Restaurant Bonaparte (and is now the Savini), it’s a great place to listen to some traditional Québécois music. The stage is so tiny, there’s little room for a backup band for the singers who pass through here, so instead they’re backed by a modest-sized sound system. It’s busy from the moment it opens to the moment it closes, so don’t be surprised if the crowd ends up singing louder than the musician. Shows usually start around 10pm.
MAP 3: 680 La Grande-Allée E., 418/640-9388, www.voutesdenapoleon.com; 9pm-3am daily; no cover
Founded in 1987, Inox is the beer institution of Québec. Located in the nightlife mecca of La Grande-Allée, its interior is modern, with high ceilings and basic bar seating. In respect to the forefathers of New France, Brasserie Inox tries to hold up the long tradition of brewing and drinking beer, which has existed in Québec since the early days of the colony. The bar’s name itself refers to a type of steel alloy used for beer tanks and echoed in its design and decor. Come and savor a Double IPA or a Trouble-Fête (with coriander and citrus flavors), brewed on the spot, and enjoy it with one of their famous European hot dogs.
MAP 3: 655 La Grande-Allée E., 418/692-2877, www.brasserieinox.com; 11am-3am daily Apr.-Oct., 3pm-3am daily Nov.-Mar.; no cover
Just like the famous François Truffaut film from which it took its name, this little bar de quartier has become a classic. Since it’s a popular neighborhood bar, the patrons are mostly locals, and there’s no better place to soak up the city’s authentic atmosphere. Clearly stuck on the notion of French classics, music tends toward Edith Piaf, Jacques Brel, Georges Brassens, and the like. The low wooden tables and deep red velvet banquettes give it an old-world charm.
MAP 3: 1060 ave. Cartier, 418/524-9570; 1pm-1am Sun.-Mon., 1pm-3am Tues.-Sat.; no cover
This club is in what used to be the attic of this grand old house, which is now a nightlife complex (Le Maurice). It’s named after former premier Maurice Duplessis’s secretary, Charlotte, with whom he is suspected of having an affair—in this very attic! Québec political scandal aside, the ambience tends toward chill, compared to the dance floor action in the main bar. Retro and pop nights are popular. Appealing to a mid-twenties to late-thirties crowd, the interior is refined and rich with padded walls, velvet couches, and fur throws.
MAP 3: 575 La Grande-Allée, 418/647-2000, www.mauricenightclub.com; 10:30pm-3am Thurs.-Sat.; no cover but some nights feature ticketed events
Set in a huge castle-like house on the Grande-Allée, the Dag has been an institution since 1977. Inside there are two distinct sounds: The first floor has a rock vibe with regular live shows by cover bands, while the second floor is a full-blown club with a huge dance floor, neon lights, and a mezzanine running along its edges. You’ll catch sets by some of the world’s best DJs. The crowd is younger than at Maurice, with many barely over the drinking age. During the summer, a line forms quickly for entrance onto the terrasse, so get here early to avoid it.
MAP 3: 600 La Grande-Allée E., 418/522-0393, www.dagobert.ca; 10pm-3am Wed.-Sun.; no cover
Le Maurice is housed in the former headquarters of the Union Nationale, a conservative political party headed by Maurice Duplessis (hence the name), which governed the province throughout the 1940s and ’50s. While the interior is pretty typical for a nightclub, the red-brick and gray-stone exterior, featuring gabled windows and a copper roof, offers a historical and aesthetically pleasing view while you wait in line. A large and popular club, Le Maurice draws crowds in their twenties and thirties. It features an immense dance floor and eclectic music, everything from electro to salsa and rock to R&B; Thursdays are old-school nights, and Sundays are Afro Vibe. Le Maurice is a great place to lose yourself in the beat. Come winter don’t miss the famous Iceothèque, the ice disco that takes up the entire front terrasse.
MAP 3: 575 La Grande-Allée E., 418/647-2000, www.mauricenightclub.com; 10:30pm-3am Thurs.-Sat.; no cover but some nights feature ticketed events
If you’re nostalgic for the days when you used to be able to light up as you sipped your vintage cognac, then Société Cigare is sure to put a smile on your face. The only place in Québec City where you’re allowed to smoke indoors, Société Cigare is part of the huge nightlife complex on La Grande-Allée that includes Le Maurice and Le Charlotte Ultra Lounge. Customers can choose from a selection of over 200 brands of cigars, including Cuban Cohibas and Dominican Ashtons, from the Société’s walk-in humidor. The soft lighting, all-wood bar, and leather club chairs give the bar a distinctly private club feel. Smokers can choose from a range of scotch, port, and cognac to go with their cigars, and those with their own stogies are free to cut and light them here, as long as they get a drink to go with them.
MAP 3: 575 La Grande-Allée E., 418/647-2000, www.societecigare.com; 1pm-3am daily; no cover
A former sports bar, Blaxton has reinterpreted itself as a classy neighborhood joint with the logo to prove it. If you want to see the game, however, this is still your best bet. Big-screen TVs are scattered throughout the wood and brick bar, which is populated with high stools and tables. Always a lively place, things get especially busy during weekday happy hours; this is an ideal spot to catch the game. The crowd tends to be younger, with most clients in their twenties or thirties. Shunning pub fare for more standard American food, they serve pizza, burgers, chicken wings, New York-style steaks, and mac-and-cheese.
MAP 3: 1179 ave. Cartier, 418/522-9955, www.blaxton.com; 11:30am-midnight Mon.-Wed., 11:30am-2am Thurs., 11:30am-3am Fri., 3pm-3am Sat., 3pm-midnight Sun.; no cover
This charming Irish pub in what was traditionally the English-speaking part of town is a little slice of Ireland, full of wood paneling, stained-glass windows, and smaller tables and chairs. It’s not hard to imagine yourself in a country pub some 3,000 miles away. With a selection of 40 different whiskeys and over 20 kinds of (mostly imported) beer, they also serve up pub classics like Irish poutine (it involves whiskey), fish-and-chips, and Irish stew with Guinness. The staff knows the regulars by name but still gives newcomers the same warm welcome.
MAP 3: 1112 ave. Cartier, 418/522-5282, www.pubgalway.com; 4pm-12:30am Mon., 11:30am-12:30am Tues., 11:30am-1am Wed., 11:30am-3am Thurs.-Fri., 10am-3am Sat., 10am-1am Sun.; no cover
| Saint-Jean-Baptiste and Saint-Roch | Map 4 (tap here) |
This artisanal microbrewery started out as a small co-op in 1996 and now exports its beer to bars throughout the province. Situated in the heart of Saint-Roch, the brewery and bar—technically their tasting salon—are right next door to each other, so you know exactly where your pint is coming from. The owners, who are passionate about their beer but also dedicated and involved in the local community, made just about every inch of the bar and the rustic interior—wood tables, lots of light—to feel welcoming. First-time visitors should try the tasting carousel featuring eight draft beers. And if the weather is nice, drink them out on the sidewalk terrasse.
MAP 4: 310 rue St-Roch, 418/522-4373, www.labarberie.com; noon-1am daily; no cover
La Korrigane
Le Pape-Georges.
Started in 2006, this brightly decorated spot with a retro feel is a daytime restaurant and nighttime hot spot. The restaurant formula goes like this: seven simple meals, all at the same price and all home-cooked. Québécois classics like pâté chinois (shepherd’s pie) join cabbage rolls and Thai chicken salad on the menu, which is all made to reproduce home-cooked comfort food. Truth be told, however, most people who go to La Cuisine (The Kitchen) have likely never eaten here. It’s a place to drink and dance the night away, especially among branchée (hip) twenty- and thirty-somethings. Music tends toward popular indie hits and classic ’80s (we’re talking Blondie, Elvis Costello, the Jesus and Mary Chain) with a few Top 40 tunes thrown in for good measure; they also host live bands from time to time.
MAP 4: 205 rue St-Vallier E., 418/523-3387, www.barlacuisine.com; 11am-1am Mon.-Wed., 11am-3am Thurs.-Fri., 2pm-3am Sat., 2pm-1am Sun.; no cover
A new arrival to the neighborhood, Le Deux 22 is one of Saint-Roch’s branchée bars—popular with hip younger folks—but the atmosphere is warm and welcoming, no matter your age or the relative trendiness of your attire (though, if you’re looking for some fancy duds, this place is also, somewhat inexplicably, a clothing store). Specializing in margaritas, this is also one of the better places in town to enjoy a taco or four.
MAP 4: 222 rue St-Joseph E., 581/742-5222, www.deux22.com; 11am-3am daily; no cover
Open since 1984, Fou-Bar is an institution in the Faubourg Saint-Jean-Baptiste area, hosting everything from art exhibitions to comedy nights, musical improv events, and concerts. People of all ages meet up here. Many musicians have regular nights, and the beer on tap is almost all from local breweries. Like all bars worth their weight, it also has a foosball table at the back.
MAP 4: 525 rue St-Jean, 418/522-1987, www.foubar.ca; 2:30pm-3am daily; no cover
Calling all beer lovers: La Korrigane, a spacious, high-ceilinged bar with summertime terrasse, brews small-batch artisanal beers made from local ingredients. This ethos extends to the food they serve, which is sourced with care and cooked well. The Kraken is a must-try if you’re an IPA fan; if you’d like to get a sense of Québécois terroir through beer offerings, try a taster flight. Check their events calendar in advance—they often host art shows, video game tournaments, and beer conferences.
MAP 4: 388 rue Dorchester, 418/614-0932, www.korrigane.ca; 11:30am-1am Sun.-Thurs., 11:30am-3am Fri.-Sat.; no cover, though some events are ticketed
MacFly is a no-cover arcade bar where the beer is decently priced and the pinball games are free. That’s right, free. They’ve got all the classics, from Space Invaders and Donkey Kong to Ms. PacMan and Centipede. The ambience is laid-back and things get a little loud as the night goes on, but it’s a super-fun place to spend an energetic evening with friends. The bar staff is pretty knowledgeable about all things fun and nerdy in the city.
MAP 4: 422 rue Caron, 418/528-7000, www.macflybararcade.com; 3pm-3am daily; no cover
Half coffee shop, half bar, Mælstrøm Saint-Roch is a great place to spend some public downtime. Bring a magazine or a crossword and settle in with your brew of choice; if someone in your party is looking for a cold brew and another is ready for an afternoon pale ale, Mælstrøm accommodates both with aplomb. The atmosphere is light and airy, with red-brick walls punctuated by lots of windows. Grab a soup and half-sandwich if you’re peckish.
MAP 4: 181 rue St-Vallier E., 418/523-0700, http://maelstromcafe.com; 7am-1am Mon.-Fri., 9am-1am Sat.-Sun.; no cover
Mo, in the hip Saint-Roch region, is part of a new breed of urban tavern that mixes a minimalist design aesthetic—cream leather couches, geometric light fixtures—with classic cheap beers. It attracts hip young professionals and beer lovers, especially those who prefer their beer-accompanying snacks to be as palatable as their IPAs and stouts. Local Québec brew Belle Gueule is available from the taps, and Mo stays true to its tavern roots and offers big 325-milliliter bottles of Tremblay and Labatt 50, a particularly Québec phenomenon. A large sidewalk terrasse is an inviting place in the summer.
MAP 4: 810 blvd. Charest E., 418/266-0221, www.moresto.ca; 11:30am-midnight Mon.-Fri., 10am-midnight Sat., 10am-4pm Sun.; no cover
This two-floor bar in the middle of the action on St-Jean has a nice terrace out back with a view of the Saint-Matthew cemetery next door. A popular student hangout, with a boisterous vibrant atmosphere, it’s dedicated to promoting Québec music and local beer, making it one of the best spots to catch emerging bands in the city. It also features pub nights and karaoke—participatory fun—and there’s always a new art installation up on the walls. With big-screen TVs, foosball, and pool tables, it’s also a great place to watch hockey or any other big-time sports game.
MAP 4: 811 rue St-Jean, 418/529-8538, www.laninkasi.ca; noon-3am daily; no cover
La Revanche is a board-game bar that runs trivia nights (mostly in French!). A bare-bones spot (think “revamped warehouse”) with shelves full of games lining the walls, it’s a super-fun place to spend an evening if you’re looking for something to do while you enjoy a pint. Speaking of pints, the beer is only okay, and same goes for the food—though you can’t go wrong with the poutine. The real draw is the games, whether you have a specific one in mind or you’re looking for a suggestion from your server—they have literally hundreds to choose from.
MAP 4: 585 rue Charest E., 418/263-5389; 11am-midnight Mon., 11am-1am Tues.-Thurs., 11am-2am Fri., noon-2am Sat., noon-midnight Sun.; no cover
This popular bar on St-Jean draws a range of clients, from fonctionnaires (civil servants) and drunkards in the afternoon to university students at night. Everybody mixes here for the famous 5 à 7—Québec’s version of happy hour. They have a good choice of microbrewery beers on tap. Thanks to stone walls, long, almost pew-like seats, small round tables, and hanging plants, the entire atmosphere is warm, welcoming, and unpretentious. Out back you’ll find one of the biggest and best terraces in the city. Music tends toward rock and indie with particular DJs taking over the decks and switching things up.
MAP 4: 447 rue St-Jean, 418/649-1985, www.lesacrilege.com; noon-3am daily; no cover
Part billiard room, part bistro, part tango club, Les Salons d’Edgar wears a number of different hats. Once a theater, it has since been converted into one of the most diverse bars in the city, though it’s still the hangout of choice for Québécois actors. In the front of the house, the bistro is fairly typical, with heavy velvet curtains adorning the windows and candles on each table. In the second room, however, it’s a whole different story. The electric blue walls of the billiard room are in striking contrast to the restaurant, but somehow it works. The five pool tables are never free for long, so grab a drink while you wait your turn. On Sundays, from 6pm onward, it turns into a tango club for amateurs and old pros alike.
MAP 4: 263 rue St-Vallier E., 418/523-7811, www.lessalonsdedgar.com; 4:30pm-1am Wed.-Thurs., 4:30pm-3am Fri.-Sat., 6pm-1am Sun.; no cover
This punk-edged alternative bar is quiet in the afternoon but gets wilder at night, when an assorted mélange of metal-heads, punks, and rockabillies come to hang out. It’s a no-nonsense bar with screens projecting videos and artwork, loud music on the stereo, arcade games, pool tables, and two different kinds of foosball—European and North American. They have some of the best-priced microbrewery beer in the city and typical Québécois snack foods like nachos and hot dogs to go with it. Bands play most weekends—think metal, punk, country—so check the site. They also have free Wi-Fi, if you’re looking for an afternoon beer but still need to get some work done.
MAP 4: 291 rue St-Vallier E., 418/523-1916, www.scannerbistro.com; 8am-3pm Sat.-Mon., 4pm-3am Tues.-Fri.; no cover
Set in the heart of the working-class district of Saint-Sauveur, Taverne Jos Dion stands as a testament to taverns of a bygone era. Opened in 1933, it is the oldest tavern in Québec and, according to some, in North America. In fact, women have only been allowed since 1986, when the government forced the bar’s hand, telling them to either accept women or close. Wanting to be democratic, they put it to a vote and les habitués (the regulars) voted to keep the bar open, and subsequently let the women in. It remains, however, decidedly masculine and is a good place to watch sports games as well as drink your weight in beer, which is ridiculously cheap. Live accordion music is featured on Thursdays and Fridays to give it an even more authentic touch.
MAP 4: 65 rue St-Joseph W., 418/525-0710; 9am-3am Mon.-Sat.; no cover
Two former gay bars, Taverne 321 and the 889, came together to create the Bar Le St-Matthew, a small, welcoming bar in Upper Town. Located on a small side street, the bar is popular with both gay and straight locals who pop in for affordable drinks and drag shows. The atmosphere is laid-back with simple decor, pool tables, and a friendly staff. During the summer, the terrasse is open for cocktails alfresco.
MAP 4: 889 Côte Ste-Geneviève, 418/524-5000; 11am-3pm daily; no cover
Le Drague takes up most of the real estate on the small cobblestone street that constitutes the city’s Village Gai (gay district). It’s divided into four different sections, and each area of the club has its own vibe, from the quiet bar Verrière to the dance floor intensity of the main room, from the men-only vibe of Zone3 to the Cabaret with almost nightly drag performances. The events calendar is packed and includes weekly drag acts, karaoke, quiz games, and country dancing. Most people, though—whether LGBTQ or straight—come to dance like fools to the house and Top 40 hits that blare out over the crowded dance floor.
MAP 4: 815 rue St-Augustin, 418/649-7212, www.ledrague.com; 10am-3am daily; no cover
A little known fact about Québec: It has quite a bit of Irish heritage. In fact, an estimated 40 percent of French-speaking Quebeckers have Irish ancestry, and Nelligan’s is here to help celebrate that ancestry. Located on an unassuming side street, it’s easy to miss the 200-year-old building that houses this cozy local. As at all Irish pubs, the atmosphere is inviting, with the bar stools taken up by pub regulars. The decoration is fairly bare-bones, but there’s no lack of wood or handwritten Jameson signs. Take a seat near the window and down pints of Irish beer to your heart’s content. Irish brews on tap include Guinness, Kilkenny, Smithwick’s, and Harp.
MAP 4: 789 Côte Ste-Geneviève, 418/704-7817, www.pubnelligans.ca; 4pm-3am daily; no cover
| Greater Québec City | Map 5 (tap here) |
If you’re a student looking for a place to party, hop the bus out to Université Laval to find your kindred spirits. Barely 15 minutes by bus, Pub Universitaire is the campus hot spot. Located in the Pavillon Alphonse-Desjardins, it has the usual student bar vibe, nondescript tables and chairs, and TVs mounted on the walls. What it lacks in ambience, however, it makes up for in cheap beer. Drink specials are available throughout the week, including weekends, when the entire bar turns into one gigantic dance floor.
MAP 5: 1312 Pavillon Alphonse-Desjardins, Cité Universitaire, Ste-Foy, 418/656-7075, www.pubuniversitaire.com; 11am-midnight Mon.-Tues., 11am-3am Wed.-Fri., 5pm-midnight Sat.; no cover
