J.A. Moisan is the oldest grocery store in North America
Parliament Hill and the Plains
Saint-Jean-Baptiste and Saint-Roch
Pot en Ciel sells charming ceramics and kitchenware.
Look for S to find recommended shops
S Best Hat Store: Bibi et Compagnie has approximately 3,000 men’s and women’s hats for all kinds of weather and in all kinds of styles (click here).
S Unique Gifts: Connoisseur of kitsch, Mr. Blouin carries everything from old milk jugs to vintage magazines at the cabin-esque Magasin Général P.L. Blouin (click here).
Magasin Général P.L. Blouin
S Best Artisanal Crafts: Carrying the work of over 125 local artisans, Boutique des Métiers d’Art is a perfect one-stop shop for everything from jewelry to salad bowls (click here).
S Best Woolen Goods: Tucked into a small basement storefront, Charlevoix Pure Laine features goods handmade from local sheep (click here).
S Best Place to Rock: If you’re a fan of rock, specifically garage, punk, hardcore, and indie, and specifically on vinyl, then Le Knock-Out has got you covered (click here).
S Best Toy Store: Parents can let kids run wild and kids can let parents do the same at toy emporium Benjo (click here).
S Best Selection of Local Designers: Dedicated to local designers, Jupon Pressé exclusively carries lines from some of the province’s most exciting emerging designers and does it with some fun in a bright, eclectic boutique (click here).
S Best Chocolate: Featuring a cocoa museum, Érico Chocolatier blends tradition with invention, offering everything from homemade ice cream to lavender-infused truffles (click here).
S Best Outdoor Gear: If you’re headed for an outdoor adventure, Latulippe has everything from bike gear to arctic sleeping bags to get you ready (click here).
Québec has a long history with commerce. As the site of the first settlement in New France, its entire founding was based on trade with First Nations such as the Huron and Algonquin peoples. As the colony grew, trade became vital to its survival. Its genetic makeup as a commercial city is still apparent, and over the centuries it has created some of Canada’s most recognized stores and brands.
Many of those same stores exist today. La Maison Simons and J.A. Moisan (the oldest grocery store in North America) are businesses that first bloomed in Québec and whose rich past can still be seen when you enter their establishments.
With all that history, however, it’s important to have something new, and the revival of rue St-Joseph in Saint-Roch has been one of the most important developments of the past decade or so. The area was abandoned by businesses that opted for the malls of the late 1950s, but new customers and retailers are now emerging in the area. Filled with young, modern stores and independent boutiques, it has given the city a much-needed boost of unpretentious fresh blood. Rue St-Jean, outside of the walls, is experiencing a similar rejuvenation, with youthful stores popping up, many with an eye on local products and design. If you want to pick up some vintage Félix Leclerc after an inspiring night at a boîte à chansons, you’ll find both new and used vinyl and CDs along rue St-Jean.
Unlike most major Canadian cities, Québec sticks to its roots when it comes to the downtown core. Here, stores like H&M, Gap, and Zara are relegated to the malls, about a 15-minute drive away. Though some chains can be found (mostly in Upper Town), they are few and far between. Instead, the historical houses and beautiful Beaux-Arts buildings are small independent boutiques or established businesses.
There are independent jewelry stores throughout Québec City. Rue du Petit-Champlain has a good mix of high-end and more artsy offerings. In fact, these are the two main kinds of jewelry stores found all over the city: super kitsch costume jewelry and high-end designer pieces. One thing that remains the same in upscale or costume jewelry is that it’s all handcrafted.
If you’re on the hunt for antiques, look no further than the narrow cobblestone rue St-Paul, where just about every other store is dedicated to antiques. The stores are stocked full of everything from antique bedposts to silverware.
Many of the stores that line the streets of Vieux-Québec’s Upper and Lower Town cater to tourists and blend into one another. The stores included here, however, all offer something a bit different and less well known.
Though Québec doesn’t have crafts in the traditional sense, there is a certain aesthetic found in the various artisanal works. A mix of materials is one element, as is an unexpected juxtaposition of colors and shapes. Inuit art, though not exclusive to the province, can also be found in arts and craft shops, since the northernmost part of Québec is home to and part of the traditional territory of the Inuit (while shopping for these goods, make sure to keep an eye out for the real deal—buying Inuit-made arts and crafts instead of knock-offs helps to support indigenous artisans and will ensure you take home an authentic piece instead of a factory-made imitation).
English books are hard to come by in Québec City. Magazines, however, are much easier to find, and both European and North American versions are readily available.
It’s not surprising that in a city so defined by its food, its best markets revolve around farmers and fresh produce. And though winters can be harsh, the farmers markets keep going all year long.
In high tourist season, boutiques in Upper and Lower Town stay open late, some even as late as midnight, if the crowds are still out. In winter, stores often close early, or for months at a time, depending on the nature of their business. If there’s a store you particularly want to visit, it’s always best to call ahead in the off-season.
| Vieux-Québec’s Upper Town | Map 1 (tap here) |
Having studied jewelry design and gemology in Paris, Michel Zimmermann returned to Québec in the late 1970s to open his very own jewelry shop. Zimmermann has since become one of the most respected jewelers in the business, known for unique handcrafted gems. The pieces are all meticulously handcrafted without the use of any cast, working exclusively with 925/1000 silver and 18-carat gold or platinum. Styles vary from simple, leaf-shaped earrings to detailed wedding bands and teardrop birthstone pendants.
MAP 1: 46 Côte de la Fabrique, 418/692-2672, www.zimmermann-quebec.com; 9:30am-5:30pm Mon.-Wed. and Sat., 9:30am-9pm Thurs.-Fri.
Situated in a beautiful old house complete with a red-peaked roof and white-washed facade, Galerie d’Art les Trois Colombes is one of the most picturesque of arts and craft stores. Filled with selections from both Québécois and Canadian arts and crafts, it also carries Inuit and First Nations works, including thick-wool parkas trimmed with fur and moccasins and mukluks in both child and adult sizes. Authentic snowshoes, soapstone sculptures, and weavings occupy the downstairs, while, upstairs, visitors will find handmade hats, rag dolls, and sweaters.
MAP 1: 46 rue St-Louis, 418/694-1114; 9:30am-7pm Mon.-Wed., 9:30am-9pm Thurs.-Sun.
This teeny-tiny store in the interior courtyard of Château Frontenac, approximately two meters wide, is a splendid gem. The emphasis is on quality not quantity, and their finely made striped wool socks, black-and-red checkered blankets, and fur-trimmed hats have become a recognized brand in this region. Alongside the cozy woolen goods (and pillows that make great souvenirs), they sell a few natural beauty products, like moisturizer, body wash, and shampoo, for both people and their pets.
MAP 1: 1 rue des Carrières, 418/694-2151, www.lambertco.ca; 9am-7pm Mon.-Wed., 9am-10pm Thurs.-Sat., 9am-9pm Sun.
Located inside the Hôtel Manoir Victoria, this full-service spa offers manicures ($50), pedicures ($70), and signature treatments like deep-cleansing facials ($95), bamboo and eucalyptus massage ($115), and maple body scrubs ($65). A 30-minute Swedish massage will set you back $65. It’s frequented by hotel guests, but nonguests may also make a reservation here. Many of the treatments use products made with local, organic ingredients, and spa packages also give visitors access to the hotel’s gym, sauna, and indoor pool, all of which have an early-20th-century, Turkish-bath feel with mosaic tiles and arched columns around the pool.
MAP 1: 44 Côte du Palais, 800/463-6283, www.manoir-victoria.com; 9am-9pm daily
Founded in 1972 by a bunch of counterculture kids, Librarie Pantoute (its name means “not at all” in Québécois lingo) is one of the most important independent bookstores in the province. Situated in the heart of Upper Town, this location has high ceilings and walls full of bookshelves. They carry popular English titles, mostly best-sellers like John Grisham and Ken Follett, although they usually have a title or two by still popular but slightly lesser-known authors. No matter what you’re looking for, the well-informed, usually bilingual staff will be able to help.
MAP 1: 1100 rue St-Jean, 418/694-9748, www.librairiepantoute.com; 9:30am-10pm daily
Die-hard comic fans will want to make Première Issue a definite stop. Sitting at a 45-degree angle in Vieux-Québec’s Upper Town directly across from Les Fortifications, this comic book paradise is filled with back issues of DC and Marvel comics, as well as cult classics like The Watchman. Local fans can be found browsing and reading or having an intense discussion about Tintin with staff. The atmosphere is laid-back with a bit of whimsy. Though they also carry comics from Québec and France, known as bande dessinée, the focus is on classic English-language comics.
MAP 1: 27A rue d’Auteuil, 418/692-3985, www.librairiepremiereissue.com; 9am-9pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-7pm Sat., noon-7pm Sun.
If you ask the owner of this headwear wonderland tucked down a quiet side street how she would describe her store, she will tell you, “I sell hats. That’s it. Point final.” And she’s right. Men’s hats, women’s hats, they are all available, from panamas to fedoras, caps to cloches, and in an array of colors and sizes, stacked up along the shelves or modeled by body-less mannequins. The service is hands-off, unless customers show real interest, and the atmosphere quite sober, depending on the mood of the staff, who are mostly mature Québécois wearing fine hats.
MAP 1: 42 rue Garneau, 418/649-0045, www.bibietcie.com; 9am-7pm Mon.-Sat., 10am-6pm Sun. Feb.-Oct.; noon-7pm Thurs.-Sun. Nov.-Jan.
One of the oldest boutiques in Québec, La Maison Darlington is named after an English tailor who took over a business that sold military garments and turned it into a wool and cashmere boutique. The antique till and specialized wooden sweater shelves are reminders of times past, and though the styles may have changed since he opened in 1872, the ethos remains the same. You’ll find accessories, tuques, berets, mittens, and scarves of only the highest quality from brands such as Ballantyne, Johnston of Elgin, and Tilley Endurables. Dapper gentlemen who still wear caps are fans, as are well-heeled older women who come for their cozy knits.
it’s always Christmas at La Boutique de Noël
Confiserie C’est Si Bon is the ideal place to sate your sweet tooth.
MAP 1: 7 rue de Buade, 418/692-2268; 9:30am-6pm Mon.-Sat., 10am-6pm Sun.
One of the city’s most important businesses, La Maison Simons was started in 1840 by 17-year-old John Simons, who opened a dry goods store near Porte Saint-Jean. In 1870, the store moved to a new location close to the basilica, where it remains. Though opened in the late 19th century, it has a definite art deco feel, with a beautiful, concave ceiling made of pearl glass. A large section has recently been remodeled and features high ceilings, sleek white modern stairs, and a live DJ on weekends. They carry labels both midrange (Canada Goose) and luxury (Kenzo, Chloe), as well as their private label collection. Locations include Place Ste-Foy (2450 blvd. Laurier, 418/634-1840) and Galeries de la Capitale (5401 blvd. des Galeries, 418/626-1840).
MAP 1: 20 Côte de la Fabrique, 418/694-3630, www.simons.ca; 9:30am-5:30pm Mon.-Wed., 9:30am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 9:30am-5pm Sat., noon-5pm Sun. winter; 9:30am-9pm Mon.-Sat., noon-5pm Sun. summer
Open since World War II, this large, spacious boutique in Vieux-Québec’s Upper Town has subsequently been run by three generations of the Théberge family. It stocks jewelry, leather goods, fur hats, plush toys, sweaters, T-shirts, and outerwear. The majority of the lines are made and designed in Québec. It’s recommended by the New York Times as a store to visit, and staff will remind you of this designation. The back of the store is dedicated to toy soldiers, and they have a huge collection of figurines, including the French battling the English at Waterloo and on the Plains of Abraham.
MAP 1: 30 Côte de la Fabrique, 418/692-2109, www.artisanscanada.com; 9am-10pm daily summer, 10am-6pm daily winter
No matter the time of year, it’s always Christmas at La Boutique de Noël. In a three-story building whose facade is permanently decorated with fairy lights, the interior is painted a deep hunter green with red trim and high-flying angels. Fully decorated Christmas trees line the aisles, while the walls are hung with countless ornaments, from Disney characters to sophisticated icicles and everything in between. They also carry nativity scenes, stockings, tinsel, and anything else you want to hang on your tree. If you’re unsure of the number of days left until the big event, this place has a running countdown.
MAP 1: 47 rue de Buade, 418/692-2457, www.boutiquedenoel.ca; 10am-5pm daily Jan.-Apr., 9am-10pm daily May-June and Oct., 8am-midnight daily July-Aug., 9am-11pm daily Sept., 9am-9pm daily Nov.-Dec.
Without a doubt one of the best stores in the city, Magasin Général P.L. Blouin is filled with novelty items and pieces of historical kitsch. Old Québec license plates line the walls, along with models of old cars. They stock everything here, from brand-new checkered hunters’ caps to vintage magazines, old Coca-Cola paraphernalia, magnetic Elvises, and Carnaval de Québec souvenirs. Owner Mr. Blouin is a connoisseur of kitsch, and people wanting to get rid of 40 years’ worth of junk in the attic come to him first.
MAP 1: 1196 rue St-Jean, 418/694-9345, www.magasingeneralplblouin.com; 9am-6pm Sun.-Wed., 9am-9:30pm Thurs.-Sat. Nov.-Apr.; 9am-10pm daily May-Oct.
This picturesque shop has the feel of an old-time confiserie, or candy shop. The shelves are lined with containers full of candy, old-fashioned treats, novelty cups and saucers, magnets, and bowls, making it a great place to pick up a gift. Homemade chocolate, fudge, and hot chocolate are made on the premises, and there’s an emphasis on local products like spices, teas, candies, and maple goodies. It’s been open since 1990, and just about everything is for sale, from the antique display case to the squares of maple sugar candy sitting temptingly at the cash register.
MAP 1: 1111 rue St-Jean, 418/692-5022, www.sibon-lesplats.com; 9am-9pm daily summer; 9am-5pm Mon.-Wed., 9am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 9am-5:30pm Sat.-Sun. winter
Everything here is drizzled with maple, from the blueberry gelato to the fleur du sel. Part store, part café, one side of this large, open store is dedicated to pastries, coffees, desserts, and gelatos, while the other is filled with rows of gourmet maple syrup, maple cookies, maple pork rub, coffees, teas—you get the idea. A small seating area at the back is a pleasant place to try a taste of their hot maple-flavor milk, but the real draws are the gourmet products.
MAP 1: 1044 rue St-Jean, 418/692-3245, www.deliceserableetcie.com; 7am-9pm Mon.-Thurs., 7am-10pm Fri., 9am-10pm Sat., 10am-10pm Sun. fall and spring; 7am-8pm Mon.-Thurs., 7am-9pm Fri., 9am-9pm Sat., 10am-9pm Sun. winter; 7am-midnight Mon.-Fri., 9am-midnight Sat., 10am-midnight Sun. summer
This outdoor market, established in 1973, runs throughout the summer on the grounds of the Holy Trinity Anglican Cathedral, in the shadow of Château Frontenac. The cozy, makeshift stalls put you in direct contact with the artist or crafter who made the goods, making the shopping and browsing experience all the more memorable. The products are completely unique and different than what you’ll find in other artisan and gift shops. Vendors sell everything from jewelry to sweaters to glass and woodwork.
MAP 1: Corner of rue Ste-Anne and rue du Trésor, www.artisansdelacathedrale.com; 10:30am-10pm daily mid-June-early Sept.
| Vieux-Québec’s Lower Town | Map 2 (tap here) |
Full of artisanal shops, many of which double as artists’ workshops, Quartier du Petit-Champlain is the perfect place to support the local arts and pick up some unique gifts. It’s run as a co-op, and there is a real neighborhood spirit and camaraderie, partly because many of these stores have been here since its inception in the late 1980s. Expect to find silk scarves, leather goods, gourmet fudge, maple syrup, expensive handmade jewelry, and more.
MAP 2: Between Place Royale and rue du Petit-Champlain
This narrow cobblestone street in the Vieux-Port is Québec City’s antiques row. With the exception of some cafés, bars, restaurants, and artisanal craft spots, almost all of the stores are filled with antiques. There is a real emphasis on classic antiques—that is to say, don’t expect to walk in and find a midcentury modern gem (though it could happen). The pieces aren’t often dated later than the 1940s, and even objects from that period can be hard to find. Instead, the focus in many stores is on traditional Québécois antiques.
MAP 2: Between rue St-Pierre and rue Rioux
Owned and staffed by a helpful and friendly young couple, Stéphanie and Frédéric Bolduc, this small antiques store situated in an old stone house is bright, uncluttered, and artfully laid out with furniture, chandeliers, and just about anything else. Clocks and sconces line the walls, while tables, cabinets, and dressers are topped with children’s toys, rotary telephones, firefighters’ helmets, china tableware, steak knives, and vanity sets.
MAP 2: 89 rue St-Paul, 418/694-9558, www.lesantiquitesbolduc.com; 9:30am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 10:30am-5pm Sat.
Devoted to the work of Québécois artisans, the Boutique des Métiers d’Art showcases the work of over 125 craftspeople, all members of the Québec Craft Council. Situated on the famous Place Royale, it couldn’t be better located, with huge, floor-to-ceiling windows and shelves and display cases lining the stone walls. Everything is well plotted out. Goods are divided by materials and include wood, ceramic, metals, and glass, though other materials can be found in the work throughout the shop. Whether it is simple wood kitchen utensils you’re looking for, a tin candelabra, or a unique silver pendant, you’ll find it here.
Antiquités Bolduc sells antique furniture, clocks, and accessories
Charlevoix Pure Laine sells locally made wool and woolen goods.
MAP 2: 29 rue Notre-Dame, Place Royale, 418/694-0267, www.metiers-d-art.qc.ca; 10am-5pm daily
Pauline Pelletier’s ceramic and porcelain artwork is unconventional yet modern. Using unusual shapes as a base—a square teapot, for example—the ceramic is then smoke-fired to create the final effect, giving it a marbled finish. The unusual pieces of art, popular with tourists and locals alike, include vases, tea sets, and serving platters. The colors are unconventional—navy blue, red, and jade, many with a touch of rich gold adorning the edges. The boutique, open since 1983, also carries the work of other Québec artisans and jewelers, giving it a more dynamic atmosphere and added quirkiness.
MAP 2: 38 rue du Petit-Champlain, 418/692-4871, www.paulinepelletier.com; 9:30am-5:30pm Mon.-Wed., 9:30am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat.-Sun. Oct.-May; 9am-9pm daily June-Sept.
This unique shop is run by artist Dominique Huot, who has been creating her one-of-a-kind silk products since the late 1970s. A descendant of Québécois artist Charles Huot, Dominique uses natural silk and wool fibers to create her scarves and men’s ties. The designs on many of the scarves are spontaneous, though she continually recreates certain themes, including abstracts, florals, and maple leaves. The shop itself is quite small, with the scarves predominantly displayed throughout.
MAP 2: 91 rue du Petit-Champlain, 418/692-5920, www.soieriehuo.com; 9:30am-9pm daily summer, 9:30am-5pm daily winter
This store in the quaint Petit-Champlain district carries lines by Québécois designers, from young, lesser-known labels like Huguette Facteau (who creates made-to-measure leather coats) to the mixed-textile playfulness of Myco Anna. Situated in a historical building, the interior is plain, featuring white walls with red trim. Carrying both men’s and women’s wear, it’s a popular tourist shop for watches, jewelry, leather bags, and seasonal products like fur coats and hats, all made in Québec.
MAP 2: 47 rue Sous-le-Fort, 418/692-2875; 10am-5pm Sat.-Wed., 10am-9pm Thurs.-Fri.
If you need a pea coat, a striped Breton sweater, or some boat shoes, this is a good place to start. The goods all have a nautical flair and evoke Cape Cod even when it’s mid-January outside. The bright blue walls, low ceilings, and high-gloss wood floors give the vague impression you’re on a ship, but the thick, knitted sweaters and heavy down jackets will remind you of the weather outside. They are exclusive carriers of yachting brands like Paul & Shark, Armor-Lux, and Meyer, and if you’re sailing the St. Lawrence, this is the only store you need.
MAP 2: 59 and 63 rue du Petit-Champlain, 418/694-0694, www.capitainedabord.com; 9am-9pm daily
Look out for the black bear and the mounted moose and deer heads: This shop has opted to play up its out-on-the-land Canadiana. Despite the touristy storefront, Boutique Bilodeau is the real deal when it comes to Québec-made winter garments, everything from gloves and mitts to boots and coats. Stylish, comfortable and warm, these products are designed to get you through the toughest of winters. They also sell pelts and rugs—if you’re traveling with kids, that may be a push or a pull factor.
MAP 2: 20 rue Cul-de-Sac, 581/742-6595, wwwl.bilodeaucanada.com; 10am-6pm daily
This small shop tucked into a basement suite under Le Capitaine d’Abord is a true gem. The wool comes directly from Charlevoix, Québec, and is made into signature socks, hats, scarves, mitts, and felt. Depending on how busy it is when you visit, you may even get to see the salespeople in action, knitting or making felt art. Staff is very friendly and knowledgeable, happy to talk shop about knitting and crocheting, and to talk through the craftsmanship necessary to produce the store’s beloved goods.
MAP 2: 61½ rue du Petit-Champlain, 418/692-7272; 9:30am-5:30pm Sat.-Wed., 9:30am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 9:30am-5pm Sat.-Sun.
This two-floor store on the tiny rue du Petit-Champlain carries contemporary designer brands, including house brand FLM (Fuck La Mode). Entering the menswear section, you’ll find a fairly small floor space tastefully packed with the latest from Matinique, Nikben, and RVLT, among others. Down a camouflaged staircase you’ll reach the women’s floor (which you can also enter or exit from the larger rue Champlain), similar in size but much more stocked, with pieces from La Fée Maraboutée, Melissa Nepton, and Part Two, among others.
MAP 2: 67½ rue du Petit-Champlain, 418/692-1214, www.oclan.net; 10am-5:30pm Sat.-Wed., 10am-9pm Thurs.-Fri.
Established in 1894, Richard Robitaille is a family business passed down through four generations. The boutique, located in an old gray stone building with stone arches and rich dark-wood-trimmed windows on Place Royale, showcases a large selection of original, handmade garments made down the street in the business’s workshop. Selling everything from simple key rings and fur-lined mittens to ready-to-wear and custom coats, this shop is not for the PETA-inclined—but its wares will keep you warm if you live in a cold northern climate.
MAP 2: 19 rue St-Pierre, 418/692-9699; 10am-5pm Mon.-Sat.
This place takes things you love but seemingly have no real use for, like that first pressing of the Grateful Dead’s “Anthem to the Sun,” and turns them into something useful like a CD rack. The brainchild of Lyse Maheu, this large, open boutique in the Vieux-Port has some great pieces, from the aforementioned vinyls-turned-CD racks. They also turn old butter boxes into ottomans and teapots into lights and carry various kinds of furniture, from old country pine tables to contemporary pieces that would look just as good in a loft as in a 19th-century townhouse.
MAP 2: 225 rue St-Paul, 418/525-9898, www.machinchouette.com; 10am-5pm Mon.-Wed. and Sat., 10am-6pm Thurs.-Fri. and Sun.
This split-level store in Petit-Champlain carries ceramics and kitchenware. On the lower floor they carry an array of charming things for the home, including mugs with mustaches, checkered canisters, and artisanal pieces like carved owls and polar bears, as well as a few gourmet products like dried pasta imported from Italy and loose-leaf teas from France. On the upper level, it’s all serious kitchen stuff like baking sheets, cookie cutters, and French brands like Emile Henry, as well as Bodum presses.
MAP 2: 27 rue du Petit-Champlain, 418/692-1743; 10am-5pm Mon.-Wed. and Sat.-Sun., 10am-9pm Thurs.-Fri.
As the name suggests, this place is a fudge fanatic’s fantasy. Well established outside of the city, this cozy, old-timey store is the company’s first in downtown Québec. The low ceilings, old wood floors, and exposed ceiling beams make you feel as though you’re stepping into the past, a feeling added to by the workers in pristine white coats who circle the store with a platter offering tastes of their divine homemade fudge. Nougat, gourmet hot chocolate, and candied pecans are also made here.
MAP 2: 16 rue du Cul-de-Sac, 418/692-3834, www.lafudgerie.com; 9:30am-5:30pm Mon.-Wed., 9:30am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 9:30am-5pm Sat.-Sun.
This sweets shop in Petit-Champlain boasts one of the most dangerous sounding treats—chocolate pizza. With floor-to-ceiling windows and display cases prettily decorated with the day’s chocolate special, this place will easily break your resolve and lure you in to try their various goodies, including fudge, chocolate-dipped fruit kebabs, and Belgian chocolate. In summer, they also have homemade ice cream, and their homemade jam is available year-round.
Le Petite Cabane à Sucre de Québec offers a year-round sugar shack experience.
MAP 2: 84 rue du Petit-Champlain, 418/694-2269; 9am-5:30pm Mon.-Wed., 9am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 9am-6pm Sat.-Sun. winter; 10am-9pm daily summer
This little shop at the end of rue du Petit-Champlain is all kitted out in wood paneling, both inside and out. Exclusively selling maple goods, it is the downtown extension of a sugar shack outside of the city. “The little sugar shack” sells maple syrup, maple candy, ice cream, maple lollipops, nougat, butter and spreads, and a ton of other maple products.
MAP 2: 94 rue du Petit-Champlain, 418/692-5875, www.petitecabaneasucre.com; 10am-5pm Sat.-Wed., 10am-9pm Thurs.-Fri. winter, 9:30am-9pm daily summer
Right on the marina, this is the city’s largest farmers market. A tradition since 1841, the Marché du Vieux-Port continues the practice of country farmers bringing their goods to city dwellers. Everything is locally grown and produced, and many products are organic. You’ll find everything from fruits and vegetables to cheese, meats, and seafood to wine and beer. If seeing all that food makes you hungry, there are places to grab a sandwich or a light lunch. A section is dedicated to gifts and artisanal goods, including handmade jewelry, knitted scarves and socks, artwork, and leather goods.
MAP 2: 160 Quai St-André, 418/692-2517, www.marchevieuxport.com; 9:30am-5pm Thurs.-Sun. Jan.-mid-Mar.; 9am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat.-Sun. mid-Mar.-Sept.; 9am-5pm daily Oct.-late Nov.; 9am-5pm Sat.-Wed., 9am-9pm Thurs.-Fri. late Nov.-Dec.
| Parliament Hill and the Plains | Map 3 (tap here) |
Located in a skinny corner house decorated with deep blue trim, lots of flower pots, and their unmistakable yellow sign, Ketto has an aesthetic all its own. In the late 1990s, Onge was working at a ceramic store when the pieces with her cutesy, big-headed, stick-limbed characters painted on them started flying off the shelves. Today, Ketto carries hand-painted ceramics, jewelry, clothing, glassware, and stationery all with Onge’s signature style. The interior can be a bit chaotic, but everything is perfectly laid out, with a simple wood cabinet full of cups and saucers taking up almost an entire wall.
MAP 3: 951 ave. Cartier, 418/522-3337, www.kettodesign.com; 10am-5pm Mon.-Wed. and Sat.-Sun., 10am-9pm Thurs.-Fri.
This corner boutique in a well-heeled part of town carries fashion-forward brands aimed at women of various ages. The decor changes throughout, from the deep gray walls and designs that cater to more mature women to an adjoining white space that features younger brands like Diesel and Nolita. The store also has its own shoe section, with seasonal footwear from the likes of Matinique and Ilse Jacobsen, among others, as well as a wall dedicated to denim.
MAP 3: 996 ave. Cartier, 418/521-1571; 10am-5:30pm Mon.-Wed., 10am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 10am-5pm Sat.-Sun.
This modern living and design store carries an array of products, all chic, sleek, and sophisticated for your home. The all-white store is artfully decorated with stock arranged as you might arrange it in your own home. The store takes up not only the corner lot but the one next to it, with mirrors, chandeliers, table lamps, drinking glasses, tableware, shower curtains, jewelry boxes, cool wall clocks, and furniture from kitchen tables to small couches and chairs.
MAP 3: 999 ave. Cartier, 418/522-7373, www.zonemaison.com; 9:30am-6pm Mon.-Wed., 9:30am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 9:30am-5:30pm Sat., 10am-5pm Sun.
Less like a market than a mini gourmet shopping center, Les Halles Cartier is a brick and mortar building filled with great shops. It’s popular with locals. An organic fruit and produce stand, a fishmonger, butcher, cheese shop, fresh pasta shop, and a bakery all offer top-quality products. It also boasts not one but two coffee shops, where you can take a break with a cappuccino; get one to go as you carry on with your browsing.
MAP 3: 1191 ave. Cartier, 418/688-1635, www.hallesdupetitquartier.com; 7am-7pm Mon.-Wed. and Sat., 7am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 7:30am-7pm Sun.
| Saint-Jean-Baptiste and Saint-Roch | Map 4 (tap here) |
Whether inside or outside the walls, rue St-Jean is Québec City’s main shopping street. In Vieux-Québec’s Upper Town you’ll find a string of well-known stores, including Québec chains like Bizou and La Maison Simons, as well as internationally recognized brands like Crocs, Aldo, and Foot Locker. Bookstores sell English-language material. If you want to shop like the locals, check out the independent clothing boutiques and record stores in Faubourg Saint-Jean-Baptiste, a continuation of the same street; you’ll find interesting shops just beyond the fortifications.
MAP 4: Between rue Couillard and ave. Salaberry
The main shopping strip in the Saint-Roch neighborhood, this street has an illustrious past that has recently been revived. Once the Fifth Avenue of Québec City, it is now the city’s coolest shopping district. You won’t find many well-known chains here except for Urban Outfitters, the only store of its kind in the city. Independent lingerie boutiques can be found, as well as some great shoe stores, home stores, and other fashion-forward boutiques. The best children’s store in the province, Benjo, is here, with a VIP entrance especially for the little ones.
MAP 4: Between rue St-Dominique and rue Caron
This narrow storefront would be easy to miss if it weren’t for the floor-to-ceiling windows and the old-fashioned sign that pops out over the door. Situated in a newer building in the Saint-Roch neighborhood, Mademoiselle B has an old-world charm with dark chocolate parquet floors, soft pink walls, and plush velvet display shelves. In keeping with the romantic interior, the costume jewelry is very girly, with collections coming from France, the south of Italy, and, of course, Québec.
MAP 4: 541 rue St-Joseph E., 418/522-0455; 10am-5:30pm Mon.-Wed., 10am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 10am-5pm Sat., 11am-5pm Sun.
A lot of time could be spent in this kitschy store filled with overwhelming amounts of jewelry and accessories, vibrantly decorated with bubble-gum pink walls, bright florals, pink fur, and circle motif wallpaper. Expect to find fabric-covered earrings, hand-drawn pins, long-fringe pendants and earrings, and bracelets and necklaces made with buttons, the store’s namesake bouton. A fun and vibrant store, it also carries seasonal accessories like bags, scarves, and hats.
MAP 4: 387 rue St-Jean, 418/614-9507; 11am-5pm Tues.-Wed., 11am-7pm Thurs.-Fri., 11am-5pm Sat., noon-5pm Sun.
Specializing in furniture and objects from the 1930s to the 1970s, Déjà Vu’s selection is much more midcentury modern than what you’ll find in most antiques stores in the city. Full of Formica tables, colored-glass cocktail sets, and electric blue sectionals from the late 1950s, it’s a fun place to stop in. Unlike flea market finds, the treasures here have been lovingly and expertly restored by owners Marie-Claude and François Gagnon. Prices can be higher than anticipated, but knickknacks and anything to do with cocktail hour—ice buckets, martini shakers—are well priced and the perfect unique souvenir.
MAP 4: 832 rue St-Joseph E., 418/914-2483, www.dejavumeubles.com; 10am-5pm Wed., 10am-6pm Thurs.-Fri., 10am-5pm Sat., noon-5pm Sun.
Founded by Diane Bergeron of Euphory Design in 2004, Point d’Exclamation was at the forefront of the movement to champion Québec-based designers. Nowadays, the neighborhood is full of shops dedicated to locally produced and designed goods (Jupon Pressé, Rose Bouton), but it was Bergeron and her eye for local artisanal work that got the ball rolling. The boutique carries the work of 30-40 local designers at any one time, and the goods range from jewelry to accessories and clothes. The all-white interior is a bit too bright at times but puts the focus on the work, while their constantly changing storefront window is always a feast for the eyes.
MAP 4: 762 rue St-Jean, 418/525-8053, www.pointdexclamation.ca; 10am-6pm Mon.-Wed., 10am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 10am-5pm Sat., noon-5pm Sun.
This sleek and modern cosmetics store is reminiscent of the international chain Sephora. Products are beautifully arranged on white high-gloss lacquered shelves, and the whole interior is given an added bit of warmth thanks to the exposed brick walls. It carries high-end makeup lines, a large range of perfumes, and just about any color of polish you could want. Pop in to get a manicure or pedicure, your makeup done for a special occasion, or just to get some tips from the beauticians, who are always ready to give you some pointers and a bit of a touchup.
MAP 4: 507 rue St-Joseph E., 418/529-7470, www.bloomi.ca; 10am-5:30pm Mon.-Wed., 10am-8pm Thurs.-Fri., 10am-5pm Sat., noon-5pm Sun.
This urban spa in Saint-Roch is great for a massage or a quick bit of pampering. The decor is relatively simple, with the rooms filled with massage tables and not much else. Though they offer treatments, the focus is on massage, and five kinds are available: Swedish, Californian, Amma (also known as Japanese massage), Thai-yoga massage, and massage with hot stones. Hour-long massages cost $65, and body wraps, including chocolate, algae, and sea salt, are $75. They also offer half-hour lunchtime massages (11:30am-1:30pm, $25) and 15-minute chair massages ($15).
MAP 4: 656 rue St-Joseph E., 418/525-7270; 10am-7pm Tues.-Fri., 10am-5pm Sat.
Established in 1996, this is the best record store in the city. Totally unpretentious, the staff simply know their stuff, with certain clerks knowing the store’s entire stock almost by heart. New and used CDs are available, as are racks upon racks of vinyl, which take up the majority of the space. Brick arches divide the store. They’ll happily transfer your cherished 33s, 45s, and 78s onto CD.
MAP 4: 248 rue St-Jean, 418/525-1020, www.cdmelomane.com; 10am-5:30pm Mon.-Wed., 10am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 10am-5pm Sat., noon-5pm Sun.
Vinyl is king at this Saint-Roch record store. Tired of having to buy vinyl on the internet, owners Jean-Philippe Tremblay and Roxann Arcand decided to open a store dedicated to genres and media they most wanted to hear played. Specializing in rock (indie, math, pop), garage, punk, and local, the shop has an impressive collection of both new and used records. The space is open concept and airy: There’s even a foosball table near the large floor-to-ceiling window and a makeshift stage where shows are played at the back. The walls are lined not only with music but also books, zines, DVDs, and magazines about the bands and genres they love. The walls are fairly sparse, but the work of Mathieu Plasse, illustrating the history of rock through outfits, is pretty much all you need.
MAP 4: 832 rue St-Joseph E., 581/742-7625; 11am-6pm Tues.-Wed., 11am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 11am-5pm Sat., noon-5pm Sun.
You could spend all day at this 25,000-square-foot store, and that’s exactly the point. It’s filled with educational toys, accessories for infants, model trains, planes, automobiles, party favors, candy, books, and a whole lot of costumes; if it’s meant for children you’ll likely find it here. Take the kids to lunch at the Benjo restaurant, or sign them up for a ceramic-painting, jewelry-crafting, or paper-making workshop. The staff is always helpful and delightfully off-kilter, as is mascot Benjo, a frog, with whom the kids can take a train ride on the weekends (10:15am-4:15pm Sat.-Sun.).
Le Knock-Out sells an impressive collection of new, used, and vintage vinyl records
Jupon Pressé sells clothing from emerging designers from Québec City, Montréal, and beyond.
MAP 4: 550 blvd. Charest E., 418/640-0001, www.benjo.ca; 10am-5:30pm Mon.-Wed., 10am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 9:30am-5pm Sat.-Sun.
Boutique Lucia F. is a vintage store carrying everything from old 45s to women’s pumps. Owned by a young graduate of design, there is an easy feel to how the whole place has been put together; carefully organized dresses line the wall, bric-a-brac and paintings decorate the tops of shelves and racks, and an inviting mustard-yellow couch is flanked by a rubber plant near the front window. Styles for men and women are carried, and most prices are $10-20. And if you like that magazine rack currently holding scarves, well, you can likely buy that too.
MAP 4: 34 rue St-Joseph E., 418/262-2629; 11am-5pm Wed. and Sat.-Sun., 11am-6pm Thurs.-Fri.
Fans of manga and cosplay congregate at this store turned hangout that brings a touch of Tokyo to Québec. It’s filled with Gothic Lolita outfits, cosplay accessories, manga, and magazines; Japanese treats like bubble tea, Okonomiyaki chips, and curry-flavored sweets; and trinkets, dolls, and ephemera associated with the culture. The tables at the center of the store are sometimes filled with fans in cosplay. They also have a karaoke box you can rent by the hour that has songs in Japanese, English, Korean, Chinese, and Vietnamese, or you can visit their Facebook page to learn about when they’re holding their next in-store karaoke session.
MAP 4: 650 rue St-Joseph E., 418/614-5052, www.fanamanga.com; noon-5pm Sun.-Mon., 10:30am-6pm Tues.-Wed., 10:30am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 11am-8pm Sat.
This inviting women’s boutique on St-Jean is dedicated to emerging designers from Québec City, Montréal, and beyond. Brightly decorated with purple walls, flashes of yellow, bright floral wallpaper, and an inflatable moose head, the shop has an especially clean layout with pieces from designers like Eve Gravel, Supayana, and Valérie Dumaine. Nicely hung and spaced, nothing looks too crowded. T-shirts are perfectly piled on Formica tables, while accessories are laid out deliciously on cake plates; jewelry is displayed like art, framed and hung on the wall, though always easily accessible. Along with things for you to wear, they also carry cute, kitschy finds for the home.
MAP 4: 790 rue St-Jean, 418/704-7114; 10am-6pm Mon.-Wed. and Sat., 10am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 10:30am-5:30pm Sun.
Casual shoes for men and women can be found at this relaxed boutique on St-Jean. Steve Madden, Camper, and Maians are available for women, while men’s brands include Sperry, Vans, and Dr. Martens. Though there is definitely more of a choice for women, men looking for something unfussy, masculine, and modern, or just a new pair of everyday sneakers, are sure to find it here. The decor is minimal with the shoes displayed on the wall and the center of the room taken up with seating and seasonal displays. Winter boots are one of their specialties, so they always have a range of styles for both sexes come autumn.
MAP 4: 748 rue St-Jean, 418/523-4560, www.schuz.ca; 10am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 10am-6pm Sun. mid-June-mid-Oct.; 10am-6pm Mon.-Wed. and Sat., 10am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 11am-5:30pm Sun. mid-Oct.-mid-June
This Saint-Roch shop is dedicated to local designers. If you’re interested in a snapshot of Québécois fashion as it’s made here, then this shop is a must. Taking over the semi-basement of a church, the space has been completely refurbished and modernized. Open and sprawling, it features the work of different designers and different styles and price ranges. Expect everything from province favorite Myco Anna to specialty brands like Yoga Jeans and Kollantaï. The clothes and accessories suit just about any age and style, though there’s much less choice for men.
MAP 4: 560 rue St-Joseph E., 418/648-9976, www.signaturesquebecoises.com; 10am-6pm Mon.-Wed., 10am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 10am-5pm Sat.-Sun.
Proof that Saint-Roch is indeed the fastest-growing (and coolest) neighborhood in the city, style savvy womenswear boutique Swell & Ginger put down roots here in mid-2013. Modern, open, and sparsely decorated with heavy wood tables and steel fixtures, the boutique would fit right in in New York’s East Village or London’s Portobello Road. Labels include Honey Punch and Melissa Nepton. Though the clothes lean toward upscale and beachy, prices are surprisingly reasonable.
MAP 4: 765A rue St-Joseph E., 581/742-7080, www.swellandginger.com; 10am-6pm Mon.-Wed., 10am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 10am-5pm Sat.
In May 1867, 24-year-old Jean-Baptiste Laliberté founded a modest fur shop that by the early 20th century was one of the best fur stores in North America. From its humble beginnings, the store eventually grew to become an arresting five-floor department store with huge arched windows and a corner clock tower looking over St-Joseph. When many stores upped and moved to the new malls outside of town, Laliberté was one of the few that stayed. Though the store has since been scaled back (the unused floors are now lofts), Laliberté continues to be a leader in furs. Bring your old furs to be remodeled or browse their seasonal collections.
MAP 4: 595 rue St-Joseph E., 418/525-4851, www.lalibertemode.com; 9:30am-5:30pm Mon.-Wed., 9:30am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 9:30am-5pm Sat., noon-5pm Sun.
This chocolate and sweets shop has a few unique specialties. With only a few marble-topped tables to sit at, this fairly small store serves up some of the best marzipan treats in the city and also offers a range of fine sugar-free chocolate made in the European tradition in flavors that range from saffron to goat cheese with honey. Port glasses made of chocolate are the ultimate companion to the aged wine, as are their buttery French biscuits. The most unusual treat, though, is the cherry blossom—cherries soaked with champagne and cherry kirsch, covered in dark chocolate, and topped with a chocolate-dipped marshmallow. Totally decadent.
MAP 4: 783 rue St-Joseph E., 418/652-0708, www.champagnechocolatier.com; 8am-7pm Mon.-Wed., 8am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 10am-5pm Sat.-Sun.
This shop was founded in 1959 by two Italians nostalgic for their homeland. The massive wooden shelves are stocked with imported products. Italian coffees, olive oils, pestos, and balsamic vinegars take center stage, while at the back you’ll find a cheese and meat counter where you can order a great panini—but hurry up, they go fast. Along with the groceries, they also sell imported kitchen accessories, coffeemakers, crockery, and the famous French Laguiole knives. Stop in and try one of their specialties, an authentic espresso ristretto—the shortest coffee around.
MAP 4: 560 rue St-Jean, 418/529-4847, www.epicerie-europeenne.com; 9am-6pm Mon.-Wed., 9am-7pm Thurs.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat., 11am-5pm Sun.
Established in 1987, this artisanal chocolatier is one of the most decadent stops in the city. Chocolate lines the walls in this quaint kitchen and boutique, with an array of seasonal treats (like nachos dipped in chocolate) on one side and displays of freshly made chocolates (with flavors like chestnut cream, rum, and allspice) on the other. Line up to get your gourmet hot chocolate, ice cream, or dessert—the brownies and chocolate cake are said to be among the best in the province. There’s no seating in the shop. The Chocolate Museum in an adjoining room provides a history of the treat, lets you taste some wares, and allows you to watch the magic being made in the kitchen.
MAP 4: 634 rue St-Jean, 418/524-2122, www.ericochocolatier.com; 10:30am-6pm Mon.-Wed. and Sat., 10:30am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 11am-6pm Sun.
| Greater Québec City | Map 5 (tap here) |
About a 20-minute drive from downtown Québec City, Galeries de La Capitale is one of the most fascinating malls in the province (especially for kids). Opened in 1981, it was the brainchild of businessman Marcel Adams and was filled with Canadian department store heavyweights Eaton’s, The Bay, Simons, and Woolco. Today, it has 280 stores, 35 restaurants, the biggest IMAX theater in Canada, and an indoor amusement park. Called Le Mega-Parc, it has 19 attractions, including a Ferris wheel, a rollercoaster, a skating rink, and smaller rides and games that will make kids go wild.
MAP 5: 5401 blvd. des Galeries, 418/627-5800, www.galeriesdelacapitale.com; 10am-9pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat., 10am-5pm Sun.
Laurier Québec, formerly called Place Laurier, is three levels high and boasts 350 stores. Opened in 1961, it is the largest mall in eastern Canada and one of the city’s top tourist attractions. Well-known stores like Old Navy, H&M, Sears, Bench, and Aldo are all here, as are specialized boutiques including Calin Caline, which carries clothes for babies and kids, and Vision Rock, where you can get a piercing while you pick up a Kiss wall-clock and a T-shirt from your favorite hard-rock band. Laurier Québec offers free shuttle service between Vieux-Québec and the mall as well as to the nearby Aquarium du Québec.
MAP 5: 2700 blvd. Laurier, 418/651-5000, www.laurierquebec.com; 10am-6pm Mon.-Wed., 10am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat., 10am-5pm Sun.
Part of the large shopping complex on boulevard Laurier in Sainte-Foy, Place de la Cité stands out thanks to the 17-story office building that’s attached to the mall’s concourse. It’s home to 150 stores and restaurants, and you’ll find independent boutiques including Simone Paris, which caters to sizes 6-18, and Québécois label Myco Anna. La Maison Anglaise, the only bookstore dedicated to English books in the region, is here, as are sports stores including Bikini Village, Sport Select, and Québec brand Chlorophylle.
MAP 5: 2600 blvd. Laurier, Ste-Foy, 418/657-6920, www.placedelacite.com; 10am-6pm Mon.-Wed., 10am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 9:30am-5pm Sat., 10am-5pm Sun.
One of the three shopping malls that make up the impressively large complex in the region close to Université Laval just outside of the city, Place Ste-Foy is also one of the oldest. Built in 1958, it is considered the best shopping center in Québec City for upscale boutiques and labels. Among the mall’s over 135 stores you’ll find standards like Banana Republic and the Gap alongside more niche shops like Le Creuset, Lululemon, and Saks Fifth Avenue.
MAP 5: 2452 blvd. Laurier, 418/653-4184, www.placestefoy.ca; 10am-6pm Mon.-Wed., 10am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 9:30am-5pm Sat., 10am-5pm Sun.
The only bookstore dedicated to English books in Québec City is in Place de la Cité, one of the mega malls on the outskirts of town. The staff knows their English-language stuff and is always ready to help. The selection is, unsurprisingly, unbeatable, from New York Times bestsellers to literary fiction, humor, philosophy, travel, and children’s books. It might not be as big as your local Barnes & Noble, but it does have the most comprehensive collection of English books in the city and the atmosphere is quiet and calm—like it should be.
MAP 5: Place de la Cité, 164-2600 blvd. Laurier, 418/654-9523, www.lamaisonanglaise.com; 9:30am-5:30pm Mon.-Wed., 9:30am-9pm Thurs.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat., 10am-5pm Sun.
A special treat for kids of all ages, this store is in one of the malls outside of the city. Over 20 different kinds of plush toys are available, from teddy bears to rabbits, moose, and pigs. Once the selection has been made, the plush is then stuffed and given a passport with its date and place of birth printed inside. The staff is kid-friendly and excited about helping kids pick a companion. Choices hang at kid level all around the brightly decorated store. Clothing like bathrobes and boxers and accessories like sunglasses and jewelry can be added to give the new plush toy a bit of its own personal style.
MAP 5: Galeries de la Capitale, 5401 blvd. des Galeries, 418/623-5557, www.universtoutou.com; 10am-9pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat., 10am-5pm Sun.
Founded in 1940, Latulippe is one of the highly regarded stores in the region when it comes to gear for hunting and fishing. What used to be just a tiny, family-run store was recently renovated and is now a large, modern, two-floor store with everything you need for an outdoor adventure—boots, bags, tents, waterproof outerwear, and accessories. They even have gear for snowmobiling and ammunition, guns, and knives for hunting. And the staff is always full of advice and helpful tips, so just ask.
MAP 5: 637 rue St-Vallier W., 418/529-0024, www.latulippe.com; 8:30am-5:30pm Mon.-Tues., 8:30am-9pm Wed.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat., 10am-5pm Sun.
Better known as MEC, this co-op was started by a couple of Canadian climbers in the 1970s and now has almost three million people as registered members. You must sign up to become a member in order to make a purchase, but the $5 good-for-life membership pays for itself by the time you get to the checkout. The open-concept store design offers lots of room for the goods, which include everything from cycling gear to hiking boots, tents to sleeping bags. Rental equipment is available. Eco-friendly and pro-sustainability, the store hires clerks that are friendly, patient, and know their stuff.
MAP 5: 1475 blvd. Lebourgneuf, 418/522-8884, www.mec.ca; 10am-9pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat., 10am-5pm Sun.
