snowboarding at Le Massif, Charlevoix’s largest ski mountain
Côte-de-Beaupré and Île d’Orléans
the beach at Baie Saint-Paul.
While visiting Québec City might give you a picture of Québec’s urban population, if you really want to get to see the culture and nature that have shaped the province, you have to go north.
Referred to as the régions (regions), the forests and the jagged cliffs of the St. Lawrence provide a real sense of Québec and its rugged beauty. Barely a half-hour drive from Québec City, you’ll find yourself in the picturesque Côte-de-Beaupré, lined with quaint ancestral homes—most continue to be residential homes. Not every historical event took place in and around the city; in fact, this area is where General Wolfe and his men camped before they laid siege to the city.
Once mostly farmland, the area is now a large tourist destination thanks to pilgrimages to the Basilique Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré and the popularity of the impressive Chute Montmorency. Across the water on the Île d’Orléans, however, things have stayed much the same as they have for hundreds of years. Agri-tourism comprises a large part of the livelihood of the island, which is full of vineyards and farms; visitors should take full advantage by picking their own fruits and vegetables and sampling the cheeses, wines, ciders, and chocolate on offer at local artisanal producers.
Navigating the Côte-Nord (North Coast) couldn’t be easier; two highways take you to the same destination, and it all depends on whether you want the scenic route, Route 362, or the faster route, Route 138. Truth be told, even the faster route could be described as scenic—it features high cliffs, rolling hills, and even patches of tundra landscape as you head farther north. Baie-Saint-Paul seems to emerge like a mirage, its church steeple sparkling on the shores of a low valley flanked by stone cliffs and the St. Lawrence. More picturesque than most of the other towns, it’s worth a wander.
North again, La Malbaie sneaks up on you from the corners of the twisting, turning road, and though the sights aren’t much, the landscape is lovely. Once you’re this far north you might as well continue to the jewel of Charlevoix and cross the majestic Saguenay by ferry to Tadoussac. The massive cliffs that plunge into the river make for breathtaking scenery, and if you’re lucky enough to catch a view of the diverse whale life that thrives in these waters, you’ll understand the atypical beauty that defines the region and the province.
Some of these excursions can be done by day or even an afternoon by car. However, some places, including Tadoussac and the Saguenay Fjord, are three hours away (or sometimes more, depending on traffic and road conditions), so plan to spend at least a night in these locations. Of course, no matter how far afield you’re willing to travel, if you have the time, it’s always fun to stay a bit longer in order to really get to know a place.
Most of the sights are accessible by national highways, though in some places these highways slim down to two lanes. If you’re driving in winter, the journey could take longer, especially if the weather is bad. Snow tires are required by law December-March; if you don’t have them on your car, avoid trips into the rocky and hilly Charlevoix, or rent a car with the right tires. North of Côte-de-Beaupré, the distance between towns lengthens, so it’s a good idea to keep an eye on your gas gauge and fill up when you have the chance.
High season is May-October; those traveling north to Charlevoix later in the year should make sure to plan well ahead or opt for a package deal at places like La Massif. Getting a hotel, dinner, and recreation in one deal will allow you to see the beauty of the area without worrying about whether you’ll be able to find an open restaurant.
Minutes outside of Québec on Route 138, you’ll reach the Côte-de-Beaupré. Located on the banks of the St. Lawrence River, this historical area boasts ancient ancestral homes and open farmland running along the Route de la Nouvelle France, one of the oldest roads in North America. As you travel along the 50 kilometers of roadway, you’ll pass through small towns between the high cliffs of the Laurentians and the shores of the river.
From the Côte-de-Beaupré you can see the Île d’Orléans, an island in the stream of the St. Lawrence. Linking the two historical areas is the Île d’Orléans Bridge, which can be used by car, bike, or foot. The island itself has one main road, Chemin Royal, which circles the entire island. It’s dotted with towns, but much of the island is devoted to local agriculture and can be visited year-round.
Leave Québec City heading northeast and you’ll soon be on the Route de la Nouvelle France (www.cotedebeaupre.com/en/route-de-la-nouvelle-france.php), one of the oldest roads in North America. In 1626 Samuel de Champlain established a livestock farm on Cap-Tourmente farther along the river, but it was Saint François de Montmorency-Laval (also known as Monseigneur de Laval) who originally traced the road, which brought provisions from the Côte-de-Beaupré to the city.
All along the 50-kilometer road are heritage homes, some dating as far back as the 1600s. Each is designed in its own particular style, indicative of early New France architecture. Though many of the homes are private residences, the public can visit Aux Trois Couvents (7976 chemin Royale, 418/824-3677, www.auxtroiscouvents.org; 10am-5pm daily early June-early Sept.; 9am-4pm Wed.-Fri., 1pm-5pm Sat.-Sun. early Sept.-early June; $6 adults, $5 seniors, $4 students, free children 12 and under). A museum and exhibition space, Aux Trois Couvents shares cultural and historical knowledge about the settlement of the Côte-de-Beaupré. Centre de Généalogie (277 rue du Couvent, 418/824-3079, www3.telebecinternet.com/archives.chateau-richer, 9:30am-4:30pm Mon.-Thurs. July-Aug., 1pm-4pm Mon.-Thurs. Sept.-Oct., 1pm-4pm Wed.-Thurs. Nov.-June, free) can help you with genealogical research, a popular Québécois pastime.
From mid-June to mid-November, stop in at Ferme le Comte de Roussy (6167 ave. Royale, 418/822-1649, www.lecomtederoussy.com; 9am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat., 9:30am-5pm Sun. mid-June-mid-Nov., free) to pick apples, visit with goats and bunnies, and purchase fresh pies and produce.
As you travel along the road, you’ll notice cavern-like structures built directly into the hillsides; these are root cellars, some of which date back more than 300 years. Also along the route is Chez Marie (8706 ave. Royale, 418/824-4347, www.boulangeriechezmarie.com; 9am-5pm daily summer; noon-4pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat.-Sun. winter, $5), a fourth-generation family bakery located in a homestead that dates back to 1652.
Near the bridge to the Île d’Orléans, you’ll find Chute Montmorency (4300 blvd. Ste-Anne, 800/665-6527, www.sepaq.com/ct/pcm; hours vary by season), an 83-meter-high waterfall (even taller than Niagara Falls, as everyone will point out) that dominates the landscape between the cliffs of the Laurentians and the St. Lawrence. It’s a stunning natural wonder in the middle of lush greenery, and visitors can discover the falls by foot, via steps alongside and a suspension bridge that allows you to cross along the top. For more expansive views, take the cable car ($14.06 adult, $7.03 child round-trip); for the most adventurous, try the zipline, which stretches in front of the falls ($25 adult, $18.75 child). Any way you slice it, you’ll get great views of Île d’Orléans, the falls, the river, and even Québec City.
There’s access at either side of the falls year-round. Basic access is free, but a fee is charged for parking ($7.05 per car late Oct.-late Apr., $10.57 per car late Apr.-late Oct.). There are lots at the top and bottom of the falls.
This is the oldest pilgrimage site in North America, and people have been coming to Basilique Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré (10018 ave. Royale, 418/827-3781, www.sanctuairesainteanne.org; 7am-5pm daily early May-early June, 7am-9pm daily early June-early Sept., 7am-5:30pm daily early Sept.-early Oct., 8am-5pm daily early Oct.-early May) since the 1660s. The first chapel was constructed on the site in 1658 as a place of worship for the area’s new settlers and to house a statue of Sainte-Anne, Québec’s patron saint. She’s also the patron saint of shipwrecked sailors, and it was a group of Breton sailors caught in a storm who vowed to erect a chapel in Sainte-Anne’s honor if they got safely back to land. While the chapel was being constructed, a man with rheumatism was said to have been cured after laying just three bricks, and a pilgrimage site was born.
The first basilica was built in 1876 to accommodate the legions of pilgrims who visited the shrine. The structure that exists today, built in the shape of a Latin cross and featuring 214 stained-glass windows, was constructed in 1926 after the first church was destroyed by fire in 1922. A small museum in the church’s parking lot exhibits some of the church’s treasures as well as donations made by pilgrims.
Located five kilometers from downtown Québec City, Île d’Orléans is an island in the middle of the St. Lawrence and one of the oldest parts of New France to have been colonized. It measures 34 kilometers long and 8 kilometers wide. Explorer Jacques Cartier first called it Île de Bacchus, because of the amount of wild grapes found growing on the island. Today, it’s home to small villages, but agriculture is still a large part of life on the island.
The first parish was founded in 1661, and a visit to Maison Drouin (4700 chemin Royal, 418/829-0330, www.fondationfrancoislamy.org; 10am-6pm daily mid-June-early Sept., noon-4pm Sat.-Sun. mid-Sept.-Oct.; $6 adult, children under 12 free) will give you an idea of what the early houses looked like. Built in 1730, it has been preserved in its original state.
Agri-tourism is a big draw to the island; you can pick your own strawberries, apples, pumpkins, and other produce at many farms across the island, including Cidrerie Verger Bilodeau (1868 chemin Royal, 418/828-9316, http://en.cidreriebilodeau.com; U-pick 9am-5pm daily late-Aug-early Oct., check website for store hours at other times of the year; free). Though many farms on the island don’t have a web presence, they’re chockablock along the main road; if you visit in late summer or fall, you won’t go astray taking the main road along the island and stopping wherever your fancy takes you.
Basilique Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré
Chute Montmorency.
Visit Cassis Monna & Filles (721 chemin Royal, 418/828-2525, www.cassismonna.com, 10am-6pm daily May-Nov., free) and learn about how they make their black currant liqueur, or go for a tasting at Vignoble de Sainte-Pétronille (1A chemin du Bout-de-l’Île, 418/828-4554, http://vs-p.ca; 10am-5pm Wed.-Sun. Apr., 10am-5pm daily May, 10am-6pm daily June, 10am-8pm daily July-Aug., 10am-5pm daily Sept.-Oct., 10am-5pm Wed.-Sun. Nov.-Dec.; $2-5 tasting) and try their reds and whites as you look at the Chute Montmorency (bonus: Québec City staple Chez Muffy holds a mobile restaurant, Panache Mobile, here in the summer—check www.saint-antoine.com for details). Try delicious heritage and artisanal cheeses (including frozen cheese and fried cheese) at Les Fromages de l’isle d’Orléans (2950 chemin Royal, 418/829-0177, www.fromagesdeliledorleans.com; 10am-6pm daily late June-early Sept., 11am-5pm daily early Sept.-Canadian Thanksgiving; free).
If you left Québec City early in the morning, stop in at Pâtisserie Praline et Chocolat (7874 ave. Royale, 418/824-3677, http://pralinechocolat.ca; 8am-6pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-5pm Sun. Mar.-Nov.; $5-10) for some mouthwatering pastries. They offer several different kinds of viennoiseries (baked goods) made fresh daily, as well as artisanal bread, jams, and other treats. If you’re visiting Chute Montmorency, you can’t go wrong with La Terrasse du Manoir (2490 chemin Royale, 844/522-4883, www.sepaq.com/ct/pcm; 11:30am-3pm daily May-Oct.; $12-29), on-site.
If you’re looking for a fancy meal, Bistro Nordik (355 rue Dupont, 418/827-5748, www.chateaumontsainteanne.com; dinner 5pm-10pm daily, check ahead for other meals; $12-40, reservations recommended) at the Château Mont-Sainte-Anne has you covered with fresh, seasonal cuisine cooked with care—chef Frédéric Delsault lets his ingredients shine without excess salt or sugar. If you’re in the mood for something less refined, Chez Bolduc (10969 blvd. Ste-Anne, 418/827-4660, www.restaurantchezbolduc.com; 11am-11pm daily summer, 11am-10pm daily winter; $10) serves up poutine, burgers, club sandwiches, and dairy bar selections.
On Île d’Orléans, tuck into some traditional cuisine or take part in the cabane à sucre (sugar shack) experience at Le Relais des Pins (3029 chemin Royal, 418/829-3455, www.lerelaisdespins.com; 11:30am-2:30pm daily June-Sept., winter by reservation only, Mar.-Apr. check website for sugar shack season offerings; $17-30). This delightful log cabin has lots of natural light and a modern take on decor.
If you’ve got a sweet tooth, Chocolaterie de l’Île d’Orléans (150 chemin du Bout de Île, 418/828-2250, www.chocolaterieorleans.com; $10) will satisfy with rich chocolate desserts, homemade ice cream, and delicious coffees. Their adjoining café also offers soups, salads, and sandwiches.
Treat yourself to fine dining overlooking the St. Lawrence at La Goéliche (22 chemin de Quai, 418/828-2248, www.goeliche.ca; 8am-8:30pm daily; $16-36), where breakfast includes dishes like waffles and bacon, and dinner has choices like ribs with truffle oil and farm-fresh duck breast.
The site of a livestock farm established by Samuel de Champlain in the early 1600s, Cap-Tourmente (570 chemin du Cap-Tourmente, 418/827-4591, www.ec.gc.ca/ap-pa; 8:30am-5pm daily early Apr.-early Nov., 8:30am-4pm daily early Nov.-mid-Dec. and Jan.-Mar.; $6) became a farm headed by Monsignor de Laval in 1664. It was an active farm well into the 20th century, and some of the early buildings remain. Today the area is mostly a nature reserve; it’s a great place to bird-watch and learn about the greater snow goose and American bulrush marshes. Interpretive guides and 20 kilometers of hiking trails are available.
One of the best courses in eastern Canada, Le Grand Vallon (100 rue Beau-Mont, Beaupré, 418/827-4561, www.legrandvallon.com; dawn-10pm daily May-Sept.; $29-79 for 18 holes), designed by Howard Watson, was once nicknamed the “minister’s club” because of the number of high-level politicians that frequented the links. Along the 6,583-yard course there are four lakes and 42 white-sand bunkers, and the changing scenery moves from rolling tree-lined fairways to a large open plan at mid-course. Equipment rentals, golf carts, driving range, and lessons are also available, and use of the practice range is included in the greens fee.
About an hour’s drive north of the city, the most popular ski station in the Québec City region, Mont-Sainte-Anne (2000 blvd. Beau Pré, Beaupré, 888/827-4579, www.mont-sainte-anne.com; 9am-4pm Mon.-Fri., 8:30am-4pm Sat.-Sun. early Dec.-early Apr.; $79 adult, $69 senior, $56 youth, $39 child 7-12), offers downhill skiing and snowboarding as well as snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. Sixty-six trails cover the north and south faces of the mountain. Officially opened in 1966, the history here goes back to 1947, when the Canadian Championships were held on these slopes.
Cozy but modern, the 31 rooms at Hotel la Camarine (10947 blvd. Ste-Anne, 800/567-3939, www.camarine.com; $104-204) in the Côte-de-Beaupré are often fitted with a warming gas fire, perfect after a long day outdoors.
skiing at Mont-Sainte-Anne.
On Île d’Orléans, grab a room with a view at Auberge La Goéliche (22 chemin de Quai, 418/828-2248, www.goeliche.ca; $119-179). Named after a small schooner, the white clapboard house has charm in spades; the views of the river and the well-appointed rooms with country touches like handmade quilts make it an ideal choice.
Total country charm is the best way to describe Auberge Le Canard Huppé (2198 chemin Royal, 800/838-2292, www.moteliledorleans.com/chambres/#auberge; $110-150), now managed by the Auberge & Motel Île d’Orléans. The oversized wood furniture, pine paneling, and wood floors are welcoming, and the beautiful garden is the icing on the cake.
Before you go to the area, read up on the Côte-de-Beaupré area at www.cotedebeaupre.com, which offers useful information on restaurants, hotels, grocery stores, and events. Once you’re on the ground, the Pavillon d’Accueil Récréotouristique de la Côte-de-Beaupré (5572 blvd. Ste-Anne, Boischatel, 418/822-3578; 10am-5pm Wed.-Sun. mid-May-mid-June, 9am-7pm daily mid-June-early Sept., 10am-5pm Wed.-Sun. early Sept.-early Oct.) can provide you with hands-on information.
The year-round Île d’Orléans Tourist Office (490 Côte du Pont, St-Pierre, 418/828-9411 or 866/941-9411, www.iledorleans.com, 8:30am-7:30pm daily July-Aug., 10am-5pm daily Sept.-June.) has a wealth of information and tips on hand.
Tours Voir Québec (800/267-8687, www.toursvoirquebec.com; 9am and 1pm daily June-Oct., 1pm daily Nov.-May, $173-310) offers a five-hour tour including wine, cider, and cheese tastings. This tour visits Chute Montmorency, Domaine Maizerets, and Île d’Orléans. Check website for dates and times.
Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré can be reached by Intercar coach (320 Abraham Martin, 800/806-2167, www.intercar.ca), which leaves from Québec City’s Gare du Palais bus terminal heading toward Baie Comeau one or two times a day (check the schedule online). A return ticket costs $16.80 and the journey takes 55 minutes.
Bike path Corridor du Littoral will take you right from Québec’s Vieux-Port all the way to Chute Montmorency and even along the Route de la Nouvelle France. The Chemin Royal encircles the Île d’Orléans and is a great way to sightsee by bike.
The simplest and quickest way to get around is to take Autoroute 440 east out of Québec City and watch for the signs; all of the sights are well marked out with the exits that accompany them. To get to Île d’Orléans, take the Pont Île d’Orléans to the island.
Some of the most stunning views of the province can be found in Charlevoix, where people come to camp, hike, and to catch a glimpse of the whales.
Follow Route 138 north out of Québec City and you’ll come across some of the most spectacular scenery you’ve ever seen. The impact of a meteorite 350 million years ago has shaped the face of the Charlevoix region and could be the cause of its mysterious seismic activity (rest assured—most earthquakes barely reach 2.0 on the Richter scale).
One of the first vacation destinations in Canada thanks to a couple of enterprising Scottish soldiers, Charlevoix’s landscape is distinct in its variety. At times pastoral and hilly, the region’s high cliffs and breathtaking fjords are adorned with tundra, while nearby, steep sand dunes rise unexpectedly along the coastline. These manifold landscapes translate into an area rich in biodiversity, where moose and caribou thrive alongside an astounding range of sea life. Where else can you sit on a sandy beach waiting to catch a glimpse of a pod of white beluga whales?
One of the biggest towns in Charlevoix, Baie-Saint-Paul is known for its unique artist community, galleries, and off-beat boutiques. (It’s also known as the birthplace of Cirque du Soleil, which now makes its home in Montréal.) Home to roughly 7,300 full-time inhabitants, the downtown core is quaint and full of shops and cafés. It’s a lovely place to spend the afternoon strolling the streets no matter the season.
Musée d’Art Contemporain Baie-Saint-Paul (23 rue Ambroise-Fafard, 418/435-3681, www.macbsp.com; 10am-5pm daily summer, 11am-5pm Tues.-Sun. winter; $6 adult) honors the area’s artistic heritage with a collection and temporary exhibits dedicated to contemporary works. Founded in 1992, the museum is located in what was once an old cinema and is a definite must on any itinerary.
Born in Switzerland in 1895, artist René Richard moved to Canada with his family as a child and was working as a fur trapper in northern Alberta by the time he was 18. By the 1940s he’d settled in Baie-Saint-Paul, where he painted some of his best-known landscapes. His century-old house, Maison René-Richard (58 rue St-Jean-Baptiste, 418/435-5571; 11am-5pm daily; free), has remained unchanged and is on the main street. Visitors get the chance to see both his home and his work in the adjoining gallery.
On the outskirts of town you’ll find Azulée (54 chemin de la Pointe, 418/240-2620, www.moulindelaremy.com; 10am-5pm daily June-Canadian Thanksgiving; $5 adult, $3 child). Situated near the coast of Baie Saint-Paul, this quaint lavender farm offers guided visits of the fields and the mid-19th-century farmhouse. The views are spectacular, and you can pick up some heaven-scented lavender goods in the boutique after you learn about the plant’s cultivation.
Sustainability is the focus of Habitat 07 (212 rue Ste-Anne, 418/435-5514, www.habitat07.org; 10am-6pm daily May-Aug., 10am-6pm Sat.-Sun. Sept.-mid-Oct.; $5 adult, $2 student), an ecofriendly house opened in 2007 and built to showcase the latest developments in new energy and recycling. The construction methods were inspired by ancient practices and used local, sustainable materials. The best part of the house, though, is the amazing view of the St. Lawrence River.
Baie-Saint-Paul has the best range of restaurants in the region. Fans of a good microbrew shouldn’t miss Le Saint-Pub (2 rue Racine, 418/240-2332, www.saint-pub.com; 11:30am-10pm daily late May-Oct., 11:30am-8pm daily Nov.-late May; $25). This pub and bistro keeps things local and serves fresh fish, foie gras, and charcuterie. They also offer more regular pub-style dishes like poutine and nachos.
Relaxed dining can be found at Joe Smoked Meat (54 rue St-Jean-Baptiste, 418/240-4949, http://joesmokedmeat.com; 11am-9pm daily; $15), a family-owned business with locations in Québec City and Malbaie. Their specialty, as you may have guessed, is smoked meat, though they also served subs, pastas, and salads.
Le Diapason, a bistro in Baie-Saint-Paul.
A French-born and trained chef puts his skills to work on local ingredients at the Mouton Noir (43 rue Ste-Anne, 418/240-3030, www.moutonnoirresto.com; 11:30am-10pm daily; $35). The emphasis is on modern French cuisine, and the menu includes everything from beef tartare to sweet potato gnocchi. Book ahead, and expect a crowd and lively atmosphere.
Located kitty-corner from the church, with a great terrasse view in the summer, Le Diapason (1 rue Ste-Anne, 418/435-2929, www.restolediapason.com; 5:30pm-9pm Mon., 11:30am-9pm Tues.-Sun.; $25) serves up classic dishes like escargots à l’alsacienne, braised beef cheek, and peppery duck. Their in-house special is the Alsatian dish flammeküeche, a thin-crust hand pie topped with fromage blanc and crème fraîche.
Once you’re in the area you might as well take advantage of the nature that’s available to you. West of Baie-Saint-Paul is the Parc National des Grands-Jardins (800/665-6527, www.sepaq.com/pq/grj), open year-round. This gorgeous national park has some of the most interesting vegetation, with a mix of both taiga and tundra. The landscape is vaguely arctic, with thick layers of lichen and black spruce forest. Home to a large caribou population, it offers many activities, including 34 kilometers of hiking trails in the summer, as well as kayaking and canoeing (rentals are available). In winter, visitors can use the 55 kilometers of cross-country ski trails and try their hand at ice fishing.
One of the best hills in the province, Le Massif (455 QC-138, Petite-Rivière-Saint-François, 877/536-2774, www.lemassif.com; 8:30am-4pm daily mid-Dec.-mid-Apr., $64 adult day pass) is the area’s largest ski mountain. Many high-ranking skiers come to train here, but even if you’re more comfortable on the bunny runs, the views alone are worth the fees. It’s on a cliff that looks out over the St. Lawrence, and there are times on these runs when you’re sure the bottom is going to be on the shores. With 49 different trails of varying levels, it has something for everyone.
Located south of Baie-Saint-Paul, Les Sommets Charlevoix (15 Chemin du Versant, Petite-Rivière-Saint-François, 877/469-0909, www.sommetscharlevoix.com; $235-675) rents chalets a quick drive from both Le Massif and Baie-Saint-Paul. A mix of rustic and luxurious, Les Sommets offers five-star concierge service—they’ll sort out your ski tickets, have alcohol and groceries delivered to your chalet, provide a child-minding service, and set up local cultural activities for you. With a spa and sauna, outdoor pool, and skating in the winter, this is the perfect spot for active rest and relaxation.
The stone-clad, 30-room inn Maison Otis (23 rue St-Jean-Baptiste, 418/435-2255, www.maisonotis.com; $120-260) in Baie-Saint-Paul is a charming historical hotel that underwent significant renovations in late 2017, bringing it up from charming if dated to fully modern. With a floral country vibe, Auberge La Muse (39 rue St-Jean-Baptiste, 800/841-6839, www.lamuse.com; $120-400) is ideally located on a tree-lined street in the center of town, and the rooms are tastefully decorated.
For a modern, upscale experience, Le Germain Charlevoix Hotel & Spa (50 rue de la Ferme, 844/240-4700, www.legermainhotels.com, $255-305) in Baie-Saint-Paul is a design-award-winning, Scandinavian-looking hotel offering full spa services, including hot and cold pools and steam rooms, and seven different rustic-chic rooms.
Baie-Saint-Paul Tourist Office (6 rue St-Jean-Baptiste, 418/665-4454; 9am-5pm daily winter, 9am-7pm daily summer) is just off the highway on a hill overlooking the city below; it’s a great view, but the turnoff is sharp. The website www.tourisme-charlevoix.com is a great online resource.
Intercar coaches (320 Abraham Martin, 888/861-4592, www.intercar.qc.ca) leave from Québec City’s Gare du Palais bus terminal heading toward Baie Comeau twice a day during the week and once a day on the weekends. The same bus runs all along the Charlevoix coast. A round-trip ticket to Baie-Saint-Paul costs $43, and the ride takes one hour and 45 minutes. Pickup and drop-off is at a gas station (909 blvd. Monseigneur-de-Laval), which can be reached either by foot—it’s about a 20-minute walk from downtown—or by taxi.
Take Autoroute 440 out of Québec City and continue past Côte-de-Beaupré on Route 138 all the way to Baie-Saint-Paul. Depending on traffic and weather conditions, the drive should take approximately 80 minutes.
The exclusive Train de Charlevoix (844/737-3283, www.traindecharlevoix.com; June-Oct.; $74 per person and up) offers stunning views, great food, and a totally unique way to get from Québec City to Baie-Saint-Paul. The train departs Québec City from the base of the Chute Montmorency on a regular basis (check the website for details), depositing travelers at a convenient location for exploring Baie-Saint-Paul.
ski-jumping at Le Massif.
Off the shores of Baie-Saint-Paul is Isle-aux-Coudres, one of the most picturesque islands in the St. Lawrence. Hop on the free ferry from Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive just south of Baie-Saint-Paul and take the 20-minute ride out to the island.
Once on the island, it’s easy to be transported to an earlier time. Les Moulins de L’Isle-aux-Coudres (36 chemin du Moulin, 418/760-1065, www.lesmoulinsdelisleauxcoudres.com; 10am-5pm daily mid-May-mid-Oct.; $8.70 adult, $4 child), a water mill and windmill that were built in 1825 and 1838, respectively, are a visceral link to the past. They’re still in operation today, and you can tour these working mills and learn how buckwheat and wheat were once ground all over the region. Guided tours are available, but you’re also welcome to explore all buildings and surroundings on your own.
With a parish that dates back to 1741, Église de Saint-Louis de Isle-aux-Coudres (1961 chemin des Coudriers, 418/438-2442) is one of the oldest religious sites on the island, built 1885-1886. It boasts hand-painted frescoes and impressive stonework. Mass is held on Sunday at 9:45am; call ahead for other hours.
No matter the season, stop in at Cidrerie et Verger Pedneault (3384 chemin des Coudriers, 418/438-2365, www.vergerspedneault.com; 8am-5pm daily). Opened in 1918, this family-run apple orchard also creates its own apple cider (alcoholic and non), jams, syrups, and honey. They offer apple-picking in the fall, and there’s a hiking and biking trail that snakes around the premises and through the fields.
On Isle-aux-Coudres, many restaurants are located in hotels and are only open seasonally; it’s best to check ahead if you’re planning to travel between October and May.
Le Boustifaille (3031 chemin des Coudriers, 418/598-3061, www.hotelducapitaine.com; 8am-9pm daily; $11-25) is in the Hôtel du Capitaine and serves down-to-earth, simple food. In the summertime, the building also hosts La Roche à Veillon, a summer theater.
Located in Auberge la Fascine, La Fascine (1064 chemin des Coudriers, 418/438-1010, www.aubergelafascine.com; noon-close daily; $25) serves simple veggie and beef burgers, alongside some slightly more off-the-beaten-path fare, like horse steaks.
La Marée (444 chemin de la Baleine, 888/554-6003, www.hotelcapauxpierres.com; 7:30am-10:30am and 6pm-10pm daily May-Oct.; $25), housed in the Hotel Cap-Aux-Pierres, serves an American-style breakfast buffet and an upscale dinner service focusing on fresh, local ingredients. For a slightly less formal experience, check out the Terrasse et Bar la Lucerne (444 chemin de la Baleine, 888/554-6003; 11:30am-7pm daily June-Sept.; $25), also in Hotel Cap-Aux-Pierres.
Named Isle-aux-Coudres after the hazelnuts that Jacques Cartier found here, the 11-kilometer-long and 3-kilometer-wide island is easily explored by bike. Vélo-Coudres (2926 chemin des Coudriers, 418/432-2118, www.velocoudres.com; 9am-5pm daily May-June and Sept., 9am-6pm daily July-Aug., $10-60/hour) has different models available, including tandem, kids’ bikes, and even quadricycles with room for up to four adults and two kids.
Located on the northern tip of the island, L’Hôtel Cap-aux-Pierres (444 chemin la Baleine, 888/554-6003, www.hotelcapauxpierres.com; $105-155) has 46 rooms, tastefully decorated with wood floors, antique-style furniture, and a country feel. Each room has classic views of both the river and the garden. The hotel also has an outdoor pool.
Hôtel du Capitaine (3031 chemin des Coudriers, 418/438-2242, www.hotelducapitaine.com; $119 and up) is also on the northern tip, but closer to where the mainland ferry docks. The rooms have a country feel with their floral bedspreads and wooden furniture; the views of the river, however, are stunning, and you can opt to have a gourmet dinner included in the price. The breakfasts are complimentary.
Travelers on a budget might want to opt for the Auberge la Fascine (1064 chemin des Coudriers, 418/438-1010, www.aubergelafascine.com; $50-90), a cute, down-to-earth auberge with private bathrooms, mini fridges, and outdoor spaces featuring Muskoka chairs (known as Adirondack chairs in the United States).
Isle-Aux-Coudres Tourist Office (1024 chemin des Coudriers, 418/665-4454, 9am-5pm Sat.-Sun. mid-May-mid-Oct.) can be found on the main road, just a short walk from the quay. Open only during peak season, it closes during the off-season (typically after Canadian Thanksgiving). Read up on the island at www.tourismeisleauxcoudres.com before packing your bags.
The only way to get to the island is by ferry. The ferry departs from Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive and arrives at Saint-Bernard-sur-Mer on the west coast of the island. The trip takes about 20 minutes. It can take approximately 367 passengers and 55 vehicles. The boats are run by a government agency, Traversiers (877/787-7483, www.traversiers.com), and as such the service is free. Boats leave the mainland and the island about once an hour during peak season, but travelers should contact the company directly before making concrete plans. Once on the island, visitors are welcome to drive or ride a bike.
If you want to continue exploring the region of Charlevoix, stay on the mainland and continue north from Baie-Saint-Paul on Route 362 until you arrive at La Malbaie, one of the oldest tourist spots in the region. Originally called Murray Bay, the area was first made popular by two Scottish officers who saw the potential in the area’s beauty and made it the top resort choice from the 19th century right up until the 1950s.
Learn all you need to know about the region at Musée de Charlevoix (10 chemin du Havre, 418/665-4411, www.museedecharlevoix.qc.ca; 9am-5pm daily June-mid-Oct., 10am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 1pm-5pm Sat.-Sun. mid-Oct.-May; $8 adult, $6 senior and student, free for children). This charming museum offers exhibitions about the region’s culture and history, including photographs of beluga whale-hunting, artifacts from Manoir Richelieu, and folk art from the 1930s and ’40s.
In more recent times, one of the biggest draws to the region has been the Casino de Charlevoix (183 rue Richelieu, 800/665-2275, http://casinos.lotoquebec.com; hours vary by season; free). Opened in 1994, it has cherrywood paneling and granite floors, and is a step up from most casinos. Visitors must be at least 18 years old to enter. The casino is located on the same grounds as the luxury resort Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu.
Run by two head chefs, Vices Versa (216 St-Etienne, 418/665-6869, www.vicesversa.com; 6pm-9pm Tues.-Sat.; $69 for three courses) is a unique take on fine dining. Customers are presented with two menus (one created by each chef) and must decide between the two. Choices include scallops on rye with smoked herring vs. scallops with lobster ravioli, or duck breast with duck-fat potatoes vs. duck confit terrine with foie gras. At the restaurant, it’s all about pleasing the diner and the chefs’ friendly rivalry. Situated on a busier street, it has a relaxed elegance that perfectly suits the flavors flowing from the kitchen.
Sometimes a little comfort food is the only way to go. Pizzaria Du Poste (448 rue St-Étienne, 418/665-4884, www.pizzariaduposte.ca, 11am-midnight daily June-Aug.; 11am-10pm Sun.-Tues., 11am-midnight Wed.-Sat. Sept.-May; $20) serves up Italian favorites like spaghetti, lasagna, and pizza in a convivial and sometimes raucous atmosphere. The pizza is thin-crusted and topped with the usual suspects and some that are more unexpected (shrimp and crab, anyone?). What’s best about this place is the low-key atmosphere and the outdoor patio in the summer.
Named after a series of valleys, Parc National des Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie (418/439-1227, www.sepaq.com/pq/hgo; late May-Oct.) has steep sloping mountains that fall to meet Rivière Malbaie. With its unique mix of fauna, Hautes-Gorges is one of the most beautiful spots in eastern Canada. Not far west from La Malbaie, it offers a huge amount of outdoor activities, like boat cruises, fishing, cycling, and 33 kilometers of hiking. Swimming, canoeing, and kayaking can also be done here.
Murray Bay Golf Club (1013 chemin du Golf, 877/665-2494, www.golfmurraybay.com; $27-68) is one of the oldest courses in the country and the third oldest in North America. It first opened its links in 1876. Built high above the cliffs that look out over the St. Lawrence, it’s a spectacular place to tee up and a must for any golfer visiting the area.
In La Malbaie, one of the area’s biggest draws is the romantic Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu (181 rue Richelieu, 866/665-3703, www.fairmont.com; $160-350). Built in 1899, in a similar style as the Château Frontenac, it sits atop the Pointe-au-Pic overlooking the St. Lawrence River. Destroyed by fire and rebuilt in 1929, the hotel today is a luxury resort with an adjoining 18-hole golf course and an on-site spa, as well as five different restaurants. The rooms are elegant and tastefully decorated and aim for comfortable instead of sleek luxury.
Auberge des Peupliers (381 rue St-Raphael, 888/282-3743, www.aubergedespeupliers.com; $140-250) keeps things luxurious but at a more affordable price point. There’s a contemporary edge to this hotel that others in the region lack, making it ideal for urbanites or those looking for a modern hotel in rustic settings.
If you’re looking for a B&B, head to Auberge Petite Plaisance (310 rue St-Raphael, 866/500-4938, www.aubergepetiteplaisance.com; $90-150), a cute spot with a gorgeous wraparound veranda and delicious full breakfast offerings. The B&B is down-to-earth, affordable, and friendly.
La Malbaie Tourist Office (495 blvd. de Comporté, Route 362, 418/665-4454; 9am-5pm daily) is right on the water looking out over the river and has a nice park in front in which to take a break.
If traveling by public transport, hop on the Intercar coach (320 Abraham Martin, 888/861-4592, www.intercar.qc.ca), which leaves from Québec City’s Gare du Palais bus terminal heading toward Baie Comeau once or twice a day (check website for details). The trip will take about 2.5 hours from Québec City and you’ll be dropped off and picked up at Mikes la Malbaie (665 blvd. de Comporté) in the middle of the town. A round-trip ticket costs $62.
Follow Autoroute 440 out of Québec City and continue north on Route 138 all the way to La Malbaie. Depending on traffic and weather conditions, the drive should take approximately two hours.
Tadoussac is the meeting point of the Saguenay and St. Lawrence Rivers. Before you can get to Tadoussac, however, you have to take a ferry across the convergence of these two mighty waterways. A free ferry will take you the short trip across the water to the historic town, one of the oldest places in Québec. It was France’s first trading post and was established in 1600. Today the area’s main draw is the rich marine life that thrives here, thanks to the warm St. Lawrence saltwater and the freshwater of the Saguenay.
Though the town itself is quite small, numbering only around 900 year-round residents, it’s completely charming, the perfect place to stroll around. Visit Chauvin Trading Post (157 rue Bord de L’Eau, 418/235-4657; 10am-noon and 1pm-6pm daily late May-mid-June and early Sept.-late Oct., 10am-7pm daily mid-June-early Sept.; $5 adult, $3 senior, $2.50 student and child). This may just be a reconstruction, but it’s still cool to visit a reasonable facsimile of the first trading post in Québec, and the exhibitions, though brief, are informative.
About five kilometers northeast of the town are sand dunes, an incongruous natural phenomenon in the region. La Maison des Dunes (750 chemin du Moulin-à-Baude, 418/235-4238; 10am-5pm Sat.-Sun. mid-June-early Sept., 1:30pm-8pm Fri.-Sun. early Sept.-mid-Oct.; free) is a restored house that’s been turned into an interpretation center that explains exactly how the sand dunes came about.
After the French arrived in 1600, the Jesuit monks quickly followed. The Petite Chapelle de Tadoussac (108 rue Bord de L’Eau, 418/235-4324; 9am-7pm daily June-Oct.; free) was constructed in 1747 and is the oldest wooden church still in existence in North America. In addition to offering great views of the river, it’s home to religious artifacts. It’s a bit of untouched history in the region.
In Tadoussac most of the restaurants are only open May-October, something to keep in mind if you’re traveling north in winter. If you’re visiting in summer, there’s a lot more choice but it isn’t always varied. One of your best bets for a light breakfast, lunch, or dinner is Café Bohême (239 rue des Pionniers, 418/235-1180, www.lecafeboheme.com; 8am-10pm daily May-June and Sept.-Oct., 7am-11pm daily July-Aug.; $20). Serving different types of fair-trade coffee, they also have a selection of desserts (try the brownie) and other treats as well as a range of soups, sandwiches, and salads. On the second floor, they also have a small book exchange library, and you can pick up some gourmet Charlevoix products.
For something more upscale, there is the Restaurant le William (165 rue Bord-de-l’Eau, 418/235-4421, www.hoteltadoussac.com; 5pm-10pm daily; $83 tasting menu) in the Hôtel Tadoussac, which offers a six-course tasting menu and views over the Bay of Tadoussac and the St. Lawrence.
Between mid-May and mid-October tourists come from all over the world to see the whales that flock to the region; approximately 10 different species can be found every year, including humpback, finback, blue whales, and white belugas. The best places to catch a glimpse of these majestic creatures are the Parc Marin du Saguenay-Saint-Laurent (182 rue de l’Église, 888/773-8888, www.parcmarin.qc.ca) and Parc National du Fjord-du-Saguenay (91 rue Notre-Dame, Rivière-Éternité, 418/272-1556, www.sepaq.com/pq/sag). Both parks offer different ways to see the whales, including boat excursions and sea kayaking. Interpretation centers are open along the trails, and they both offer stunning views of the fjords and the rivers. The parks are open year-round; admission, which gives you access to both parks, is $8.50 adults, children and youth under 18 free.
Independent companies offer up-close and personal whale tours. The largest game in town is Croisières AML (Baie du Tadoussac, 866/856-6668, www.croisieresaml.com; May-Sept.; $65-135), which offers tours of varying lengths—including tours that offer transportation up to Tadoussac from Québec City. Most of the tours take place on larger boats with food facilities and naturalists who’ll walk you through the action; tours on Zodiacs (sleek, low boats) let you get even closer to the animals. Passengers are given life jackets and waterproof overalls but you will likely get wet anyhow as you bump along the waves. Departure times vary depending on the day of the week, the month, and the type of tour; it’s best to plan ahead, especially during the busy season.
For the brave and experienced, kayak trips are also available through Mer et Monde Ecotours (866/637-6663, www.meretmonde.ca; May-Sept.; $56-125), whose three- to eight-hour tours start at the bay of Tadoussac, just past the lawn of the Hôtel Tadoussac.
Sitting on the Baie de Tadoussac, Hôtel Tadoussac (165 rue Bord-de-l’Eau, 800/561-0718, www.hoteltadoussac.com; May-Oct.; $129-149) stands out on the horizon with its red copper roof and white clapboard siding. Opened in 1864, it’s one of the oldest hotels in the region and maintains its historical feel (it has no air-conditioning, but then again you don’t really need it). The rooms have been modernized and have a nice, airy quality about them. The Petite Chapelle de Tadoussac is on the property. Built by Jesuit missionaries, it is the oldest wooden church in North America and still has some of its original artifacts.
Before you go, check out www.tourisme-charlevoix.com for all the necessary tips and information.
The Tadoussac Tourist Office (197 rue des Pionniers, 418/235-4744, www.tadoussac.com; 9am-5pm Mon.-Sat. May-late Oct.) is in the center of town and hard to miss. It has loads of information on the region as well as a few historical exhibits to give you more of an idea about the place, its culture, and history.
Intercar coaches (320 Abraham Martin, 888/861-4592, www.intercar.qc.ca) leave from Québec City’s Gare du Palais bus terminal heading north once a day. The same bus runs all along the Charlevoix coast. A round-trip ticket to Tadoussac costs $98 and the ride takes a little over 4.5 hours, depending on traffic and weather. The bus pickup and drop-off is at Accommodation JB (443 rue du Bateau-Passeur) in the center of the town.
From Québec City take Autoroute 440 and then Route 138 all along the coast to Tadoussac. The drive should take a little over three hours depending on the weather and traffic conditions.
