Weeknight Take-In

 

Stir-Fry, Pad Thai, Lo Mein, and Fried Rice

 

Dishing up sizzling vegetables and meat in a bright, fresh sauce from a hot skillet beats poking at limp vegetables in a gloppy sauce from a take-out box. So if you can start to see Asian fast food as a formula to internalize and a technique to master, you’ll rarely order take-out again.

Stir-Fry Formula

 

Long ingredients lists, lengthy preparation, and a foreign cooking process often make stir-fries seem impossible for weeknight cooking. For that very reason, I set out several years back to demystify stir-fry.

Working with that formula over the years, I’ve modified the recipe to make it even more supper-friendly, but the ingredient list is still virtually the same: 1 pound each protein and vegetables, 1 onion, 1 tablespoon each garlic and ginger, 1 recipe flavoring sauce, a little cornstarch diluted in water for thickener, and oil for stir-frying.

PROTEIN: 1 Pound

The following seafood, poultry, tofu, and cuts of meat require minimal preparation and cook quickly. Don’t skip the marinating step—it makes a big difference in the balance of flavors. It doesn’t need to marinate long—just make it the first thing you do in the process. Since domestic stoves just don’t have the BTUs to sear large quantities at a time, you need to cook the meat in batches.

• Peeled medium shrimp: Pat dry.

• “Dry” sea scallops (see this page): Pat dry and halve horizontally.

• Boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs: Cut into bite-size chunks or strips.

• Pork tenderloin: Thinly slice crosswise (if part of the tenderloin is very thick, halve it lengthwise before slicing).

• Steak (sirloin, New York strip, rib eye, tenderloin): Thinly slice across the grain and cut into bite-size pieces.

• Flank or skirt steak: Slice across the grain with the knife at a slight angle to the cutting board and cut into bite-size pieces.

• Extra-firm tofu: Pat dry. (If there’s time, place on paper towels between 2 plates topped with a couple of cans.) Cut into bite-size chunks.

• Tempeh: Cut into bite-size pieces.

VEGETABLES: 1 Pound (Choose Two, ½ Pound Each)

For the same reason the protein must be cooked in batches, the vegetables must be added to the skillet incrementally. When choosing vegetables, pick one from the Firm Vegetables category and one from the Tender Vegetables category. This way you can lightly steam the firm vegetable before stir-frying, giving it a head start in the cooking process.

FIRM VEGETABLES (½ pound)

• Asparagus: Snap off ends and cut into 1-inch lengths. Halve thicker asparagus lengthwise.

• Broccoli or cauliflower: Trim and cut into bite-size florets (peel and slice broccoli stems).

• Brussels sprouts: Trim and halve lengthwise.

• Carrots: Peel and cut into bite-size slices. Halve thicker carrots lengthwise first.

• Green beans: Trim and cut into bite-size lengths. (Thin green beans or haricots verts are the best.)

• Snow peas or sugar snap peas: If not done already, remove strings.

• Sweet potatoes: Halve (or quarter if large) and cut into bite-size slices.

• Winter squash, such as butternut: Peel, seed, and cut into bite-size slices.

TENDER VEGETABLES (½ pound)

• Bean sprouts: Simply open the plastic bag and dump.

• Bell peppers (yellow, red, and green): Stem, seed, and slice into bite-size strips.

• Cabbage: Quarter, core, and shred thick.

• Celery: Cut into bite-size slices.

• Corn, baby canned: Drain and rinse (one 14-ounce can = 8 ounces, drained).

• Eggplant: Trim and cut into bite-size chunks.

• Fennel: Trim, halve, core, and shred thick.

• Mushrooms, domestic white or baby bella: Slice.

• Pineapple: Peel, quarter, core, and cut into bite-size chunks. (This is not a vegetable, but it works like a tender vegetable.)

• Water chestnuts, sliced canned: Drain and rinse (one 8-ounce can = 5 ounces, drained).

• Zucchini or yellow squash: Trim and cut into bite-size slices. Halve or quarter large ones.

FLAVORING SAUCES: Choose 1

With the exception of the Basil (or Cilantro) Flavoring Sauce, which requires a fresh herb, Flavoring Sauce ingredients are simple pantry items. The sauces are mostly interchangeable and can be used with any of the stir-fry proteins and vegetables with the exception of Lemon-Coconut Flavoring Sauce, which is best paired with poultry, seafood, tofu, and tempeh.

With all of the Flavoring Sauces, just stir together. For a little extra kick, increase the pepper flakes from ¼ to ½ teaspoon.

General Tso’s Flavoring Sauce

¼ cup dark soy sauce (or 2 tablespoons each molasses and soy sauce)

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

2 tablespoons sweet sherry

A generous ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

¼ cup water

Spicy Orange Flavoring Sauce

6 tablespoons orange juice concentrate

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce (or 1 tablespoon each soy sauce and molasses)

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

A generous ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

¼ cup water

Coconut Curry Flavoring Sauce

¾ cup coconut milk (light or regular)

2 tablespoons sweet sherry

2 tablespoons soy sauce

4 teaspoons light or dark brown sugar

2 teaspoons curry powder

Basil (or Cilantro) Flavoring Sauce

½ cup vegetable or chicken broth

¼ cup soy sauce

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

1 tablespoon sugar

⅓ cup chopped fresh basil or cilantro

Lemon-Coconut Flavoring Sauce

½ cup coconut milk (light or regular)

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

3 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons sweet sherry

4 teaspoons light or dark brown sugar

Sweet and Sour Flavoring Sauce

6 tablespoons pineapple juice

3 tablespoons soy sauce

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1½ tablespoons light or dark brown sugar

A generous ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

Sichuan-Chili Flavoring Sauce

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

3 tablespoons sweet sherry

2 tablespoons chili garlic sauce or Sriracha sauce

½ teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns, crushed

¼ cup water

STIR-FRY

Stir-Fried Tofu with Sugar Snap Peas and Baby Corn (left); Stir-Fried Shrimp with Asparagus and Bean Sprouts (right)

STIR-FRY

Serves 4

Once you’ve followed this technique a couple of times, you will internalize it. After that, you’ll only need to refer to the Flavoring Sauces. Serve with Cooked White Rice or Cooked Brown Rice (this page).

1 pound Protein (see this page)

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon sweet sherry

½ pound Firm Vegetables (see this page)

Salt

3 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil

1 medium-large onion, peeled and halved from pole to pole, each half cut into 8 wedges

½ pound Tender Vegetables (see this page)

1 tablespoon minced garlic (see Note)

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger (see Note)

1 recipe Flavoring Sauce (see this page)

2 teaspoons cornstarch mixed with 2 tablespoons water

Note: The quality of garlic and ginger paste in tubes in the produce department of many grocery stores is good and saves precious time.

1. Toss the Protein with the soy sauce and sherry in a medium bowl and set aside. Let the meat marinate while you prep all the vegetables and make the flavoring sauce.

2. When ready to cook, set a heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet over low heat.

3. Place the Firm Vegetables in the skillet with a light sprinkling of salt and ¼ cup water. Cover the pan and increase the heat to high. When the water starts to steam, set the timer and cook until crisp-tender, 1 to 2 minutes: Figure 1 minute for delicate vegetables like asparagus and snow peas, 2 minutes for hardy vegetables like sweet potatoes and Brussels sprouts. Turn the vegetables into a large bowl.

4. Return the skillet to high heat and turn on the exhaust fan. Add 1 tablespoon oil and heat until wisps of smoke start to rise from the pan. Leaving any unabsorbed marinade in the bowl, and working in two batches, cook the Protein, turning once, until well browned and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per batch. Transfer the Protein to the bowl with Firm Vegetables.

5. Drizzle another 1 tablespoon oil into the hot skillet. Add the onion and stir-fry until spotty brown, 1 to 1½ minutes. Add the Tender Vegetables and stir-fry until crisp-tender, 1 to 1½ minutes longer. Make a well in the middle of the skillet and add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, and ginger and cook until fragrant, a few seconds, then stir-fry into the vegetables. Return the steamed Firm Vegetables and the Protein to the skillet and stir-fry to heat through. Add the Flavoring Sauce and cook to coat all ingredients. Stir the cornstarch mixture and add it to the skillet. Cook until the juices become saucy and glossy. Serve immediately.

Suggestions

Stir-Fried Shrimp with Asparagus and Bean Sprouts

Protein: shrimp

Firm Vegetable: asparagus

Tender Vegetable: bean sprouts

Flavoring Sauce: Spicy Orange Flavoring Sauce (this page)

Stir-Fried Scallops with Cauliflower and Celery (or Fennel)

Protein: scallops

Firm Vegetable: cauliflower

Tender Vegetable: celery

Flavoring Sauce: Lemon-Coconut Flavoring Sauce (this page)

Stir-Fried Beef with Green Beans and Mushrooms

Protein: steak (your choice)

Firm Vegetable: green beans

Tender Vegetable: mushrooms

Flavoring Sauce: Sichuan-Chili Flavoring Sauce (this page)

Stir-Fried Chicken with Winter Squash (or Carrots) and Cabbage

Protein: boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs

Firm Vegetable: winter squash or carrots

Tender Vegetable: cabbage

Flavoring Sauce: General Tso’s Flavoring Sauce (this page)

Stir-Fried Chicken with Broccoli and Peppers

Protein: boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs

Firm Vegetable: broccoli

Tender Vegetable: bell peppers

Flavoring Sauce: Basil Flavoring Sauce (this page)

Stir-Fried Tofu with Sugar Snap Peas and Baby Corn

Protein: tofu

Firm Vegetable: snow peas

Tender Vegetable: baby corn

Flavoring Sauce: Coconut Curry Flavoring Sauce (this page)

Stir-Fried Pork with Sweet Potatoes and Pineapple

Protein: pork tenderloin

Firm Vegetable: sweet potatoes

Tender “Vegetable”: pineapple

Flavoring Sauce: Sweet and Sour Flavoring Sauce (this page)

At a Glance

WEEKNIGHT STIR-FRY

 

1. Toss the protein with the soy sauce and sherry.

2. Prepare the onion and the firm and tender vegetables.

3. Prepare the garlic and ginger, mix the flavoring sauce, and dissolve the cornstarch.

4. Steam the firm vegetable and remove. Stir-fry the protein in two batches, followed by the onion, followed by the tender vegetable, then the garlic and ginger.

5. Return the cooked protein and the firm vegetable to the skillet.

6. Stir in the flavoring sauce and then the cornstarch mixture.

More Asian Fast Food: Pad Thai, Lo Mein, and Fried Rice

 

Although the flavorings and ingredients differ slightly, the methods for making lo mein and fried rice are almost identical. With cooked pasta or rice on hand, you can have lo mein or fried rice on the table in less than twenty minutes. As with stir-fry, the skillet must be searing hot, and the meat and vegetable additions are staggered so the ingredients stir-fry instead of stew.

Except for pineapple, which is good only in sweet-and-sour stir-fries, most of the suggested stir-fry meats or vegetables (see this page) work equally well in lo mein or fried rice. Since the meat and vegetables are supporting rather than featured ingredients in these dishes, cut them slightly smaller than you would for stir-fry.

Although pad Thai doesn’t quite offer the flexibility of ingredients that fried rice and lo mein do, the dish is definitely a close cousin. The technique is identical—keep the skillet hot, stagger the protein and vegetable additions, and add a cooked starch.

LO MEIN FLAVORING SAUCE

Enough to flavor one recipe lo mein

For a more kid-friendly dish, reduce the red pepper flakes to ½ or even ¼ teaspoon.

¼ cup chicken or vegetable broth

¼ cup soy sauce

2 teaspoons rice vinegar

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon sugar

Mix in a small bowl and set aside.

PAD THAI FLAVORING SAUCE

Enough to flavor 1 recipe Pad Thai

Thai or Vietnamese fish sauce, also known as nam pla or nuoc mam, is available at Asian specialty markets or in the Asian section of many grocery stores across the country.

6 tablespoons Thai or Vietnamese fish sauce

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

Mix all the ingredients, stirring until the sugar is dissolved.

PAD THAI

Serves 4

Pad Thai is made with rice noodles, which are cooked by simply pouring boiling water over them and letting them stand for a few minutes. The noodles can be drained and refrigerated in a zipper-lock bag for several days, making pad Thai especially easy to make. If you don’t have or can’t find rice noodles, you can use spaghetti or fettuccine in a pinch.

1 recipe Pad Thai Flavoring Sauce (this page)

1 pound Protein: shrimp, chicken, or tofu, cut into bite-size pieces

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 medium onion, peeled and halved from pole to pole, each half cut in 6 to 8 wedges

1 bunch scallions, cut into 1-inch lengths, white and green parts reserved seperately

1 tablespoon minced garlic (or refrigerated paste)

4 cups cooked pad Thai noodles or spaghetti (8 ounces), patted dry

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

8 ounces (1 cup) bean sprouts, rinsed

1 lime, halved

¼ cup roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped

Chopped fresh cilantro leaves

1. Set a heavy-bottomed 12-inch nonstick or cast-iron skillet over low heat. Mix the Pad Thai Flavoring Sauce. Toss the Protein with 2 tablespoons of the flavoring sauce in a large bowl. Set aside while you prep the rest of the ingredients.

2. Three to 4 minutes before cooking, increase heat to high and turn on the exhaust fan. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil and heat until wisps of smoke start to rise from the pan. Working in two batches, stir-fry the Protein, turning once, until well browned and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per batch. Transfer the Protein to a clean bowl.

3. Add another 1 tablespoon of oil to the pan. Add the onion and stir-fry until spotty brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the scallion whites and garlic and cook until fragrant, a few seconds longer. Transfer the skillet contents to the bowl of protein.

4. Heat on high all but 1 teaspoon of the remaining oil to shimmering in the now-empty skillet. Add the noodles and stir-fry until heated through, about 2 minutes. Make a well in the center of the noodles and add the remaining oil and the eggs. Stir-fry the eggs until scrambled, about 1 minute. Return the Protein to the skillet. Add the remaining Pad Thai Flavoring Sauce and stir-fry until heated through.

5. Transfer the pad Thai to a large serving bowl. Add the bean sprouts and scallion greens, squeeze in half the lime, and toss to combine. Sprinkle with the peanuts and cilantro and serve immediately with the remaining half of the lime, cut into wedges.

At a Glance

PAD THAI

 

1. Have 4 cups of cooked pad Thai noodles on hand.

2. Heat a skillet over low heat while prepping, then increase to high 3 to 4 minutes before cooking.

3. Prepare the pad Thai flavoring sauce and marinate the protein in 2 tablespoons of it.

4. Cut the onion into wedges, mince the garlic, slice the scallions, beat the eggs, chop the peanuts, and slice the lime.

5. Stir-fry the protein in batches, followed by the onion, scallion whites, and garlic. Remove from the pan.

6. Stir-fry the noodles. Make a well and scramble in the eggs. Return the protein to the skillet and add the remaining pad Thai flavoring sauce.

7. Transfer to a serving bowl. Toss with the bean sprouts, scallion greens, and lime juice. Sprinkle with the peanuts and cilantro and serve with lime wedges.

LO MEIN

Chicken Lo Mein with Asparagus and Water Chestnuts

LO MEIN

Serves 4

If you’re a cilantro fan and have the time, add a little chopped fresh to the finished dish.

½ pound Protein (see this page)

1½ teaspoons soy sauce

1½ teaspoons sweet sherry

½ pound Firm Vegetables, cut into small bite-size pieces (see this page)

Salt

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

½ pound Tender Vegetables, cut into small bite-size pieces (see this page)

1 bunch scallions, sliced, white and greens parts reserved separately

1½ teaspoons minced garlic (or refrigerated paste)

1½ teaspoons minced fresh ginger (or refrigerated paste)

4 heaping cups cooked lo mein noodles or leftover spaghetti (about 8 ounces uncooked)

1 recipe Lo Mein Flavoring Sauce (this page)

1. Toss the Protein with the soy sauce and sherry in a large bowl and set aside. Let the meat marinate while you prep all the vegetables and make the flavoring sauce.

2. When ready to cook, set a heavy-bottomed 12-inch nonstick or cast-iron skillet over low heat.

3. Place the Firm Vegetables in the skillet with a light sprinkling of salt and ¼ cup water. Cover the pan and increase the heat to high. When the water starts to steam, set the timer and cook until crisp-tender: Figure 1 minute for delicate vegetables like asparagus and snow peas, 2 minutes for hardy vegetables like sweet potatoes and Brussels sprouts. Turn the vegetables into a large bowl.

4. Return the skillet to high heat and turn on the exhaust fan. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil and heat until wisps of smoke start to rise from the pan. Leaving the unabsorbed marinade in the bowl, stir-fry the Protein until browned and cooked through, about 2 minutes. Add the Tender Vegetables along with the scallion whites and stir-fry until tender-crisp, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the garlic and ginger and cook until fragrant, a few seconds longer. Transfer the skillet contents to the bowl with the Firm Vegetables.

5. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the now-empty skillet and heat on high until shimmering. Add the noodles and stir-fry until heated through, about 2 minutes. Return the Protein and Vegetables to the skillet, along with the Lo Mein Flavoring Sauce and scallion greens. Stir-fry to combine and heat through. Serve immediately.

Suggestions

Shrimp Lo Mein with Snow Peas and Peppers

Protein: shrimp

Firm Vegetable: snow peas

Tender Vegetable: peppers

Lo Mein with Tofu, Broccoli, and Mushrooms

Protein: extra-firm tofu

Firm Vegetable: broccoli

Tender Vegetable: mushrooms

Chicken Lo Mein with Asparagus and Water Chestnuts

Protein: boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs

Firm Vegetable: asparagus

Tender Vegetable: celery stalks and water chestnuts

Pork Lo Mein with Butternut Squash and Cabbage

Protein: pork tenderloin

Firm Vegetable: butternut squash

Tender Vegetable: shredded cabbage

At a Glance

LO MEIN

 

1. Make sure to have 4 cups of lo mein noodles or cooked spaghetti.

2. Toss the protein with the soy sauce and sherry so it can marinate while you prep.

3. Prepare the scallions and the firm and tender vegetables.

4. Prepare the garlic and ginger and make the lo mein flavoring sauce.

5. Steam the firm vegetable and remove from the pan.

6. Stir-fry the protein, then the tender vegetable and scallion whites, then the garlic and ginger. Remove from pan and add to the firm vegetable.

7. Stir-fry the noodles. Return the protein and vegetables to the pan. Add the flavoring sauce and scallion greens and heat through.

FRIED RICE

Serves 4

The rice needs to stir-fry in a generous amount of oil. (It’s fried rice, after all!) If you don’t use enough, the dish starts to taste more like a rice casserole.

½ pound Protein (see this page), cut into small bite-size pieces

1½ teaspoons plus 3 tablespoons soy sauce

1½ teaspoons sweet sherry

½ pound Firm Vegetables (see this page)

Salt

4 tablespoons vegetable oil

½ pound Tender Vegetables (see this page)

1 bunch scallions, sliced, white and greens parts reserved separately

1 large garlic clove, minced

4 cups cooked white or brown rice

2 large eggs, beaten

1. Toss the Protein with the 1½ teaspoons of the soy sauce and the sherry in a large bowl and set aside. Let it marinate while you prep all the rest of the ingredients.

2. When ready to cook, set a heavy-bottomed 12-inch nonstick or cast-iron skillet over low heat.

3. Place the Firm Vegetables in the skillet with a light sprinkling of salt and ¼ cup water; cover the pan and increase the heat to high. When the water starts to steam, set the timer and cook until crisp-tender, 1 to 2 minutes: Figure 1 minute for delicate vegetables like asparagus and snow peas, 2 minutes for hardy vegetables like sweet potatoes and Brussels sprouts. Turn the vegetables into a large bowl.

4. Return the skillet to high heat and turn on the exhaust fan. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil and heat until wisps of smoke start to rise from the pan. Leaving unabsorbed marinade in the bowl, stir-fry the Protein until browned and cooked through, about 2 minutes. Add the Tender Vegetables along with scallion whites and stir-fry until tender-crisp, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant, a few seconds longer. Transfer the skillet contents to the bowl of Firm Vegetables.

5. Heat on high all but 1 teaspoon of the remaining oil to shimmering in the now-empty skillet. Add the rice and stir-fry until heated through, about 2 minutes. Make a well in the center of the rice and add the remaining 1 teaspoon oil and the eggs. Stir-fry until scrambled, about 1 minute. Return the Protein and the Vegetables to the skillet, along with the remaining 3 tablespoons soy sauce and the scallion greens. Stir-fry to combine and heat through. Serve immediately.

Suggestions

Fried Rice with Pork, Brussels Sprouts, and Mushrooms

Protein: pork tenderloin

Firm Vegetable: Brussels sprouts

Tender Vegetable: mushrooms

Fried Rice with Shrimp, Broccoli, and Water Chestnuts

Protein: shrimp

Firm Vegetable: broccoli

Tender Vegetable: 1 can (8 ounces) sliced water chestnuts

Fried Rice with Tofu, Carrots, and Celery

Protein: extra-firm tofu

Firm Vegetable: carrots

Tender Vegetable: celery

Fried Rice with Chicken, Cauliflower, and Peppers

Protein: boneless, skinless chicken breast or thighs

Firm Vegetable: cauliflower

Tender Vegetable: bell pepper

TIPS AND TRICKS

• Cut protein and vegetables into small bite-size pieces for this dish.

• You can also use leftover meat, poultry, and shrimp: Figure 1½ to 2 cups.

• Toss in a handful of thawed frozen peas at the end, if you like.

• For a slightly different flavor, add 1½ tablespoons each soy sauce and fish sauce (as substitute for the 3 tablespoons soy sauce) at the end.

At a Glance

FRIED RICE

 

1. Make sure to have 4 cups of cooked rice on hand.

2. Toss the protein with soy sauce and sherry in a large bowl and let marinate while you prep.

3. Prepare the scallions, the firm and tender vegetables, and the garlic.

4. Steam the firm vegetable and remove it from the pan.

5. Stir-fry the protein, followed by the tender vegetable and scallion whites, followed by the garlic. Remove from the pan.

6. Stir-fry the rice. Make a well and scramble the eggs.

7. Return the protein and vegetables to the pan. Add the remaining soy sauce and scallion greens and heat through.

Fried Rice with Chicken, Cauliflower, and Peppers