Oh gluten, it’s been a rough few years, hasn’t it? You’re the poster child for the inherent problem we have with food—we love to demonize something. Fat. Sugar. Salt. Gluten. But wait, isn’t pasta an essential part of the Mediterranean diet? And don’t people who eat the Mediterranean diet live a longer life than the rest of us? So it can’t be that bad for us, in moderation. This chapter embraces the noodle (or pasta, if you prefer) in full glory. Skip it if you want to. Substitute if you must. But always, always eat organic.
Why is organic so important when it comes to wheat, which is what most pasta is made from? There is growing evidence that it’s not the wheat itself that people are becoming sensitive to, but the combination of overhybridization and overuse of chemicals in its production. Because wheat is such an important part of the diet in many cultures, a lot of effort has been put into increasing productivity by creating “super wheat,” which may be less digestible than our native originals. It is also common practice to spray wheat with glyphosate right before harvest in order to increase yield and make the wheat easier for the farmer to harvest. Unfortunately, easier for the farmer doesn’t necessarily mean easier for your body to digest.
But enough about the yucky stuff, noodles are all about the yummy stuff. Just make sure they are organic, eat them in moderation, live like a Mediterranean (which also means walking a lot and enjoying life), and you’ll be fine! You can use plain or whole wheat pasta in these recipes. If you must, you can substitute gluten-free pasta, but make sure you adjust the cooking time as it tends to cook faster than conventional pasta.
Spätzle are a type of German pasta. Meaning “little sparrows,” they’re small egg-based noodles or dumplings that are served to soak up gravy, butter, or sauce. Spätzle, like most comfort foods, aren’t hard to make at all. I cook mine using a spätzle maker, but according to my blog readers, you can also use a colander or a cheese grater to form the nuggety shapes. Serves 4
4 large eggs
¾ cup whole milk
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 cups all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon butter
Chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves, for serving
1In a large bowl, combine the eggs, milk, oil, flour, and salt and whisk to combine. Allow the mixture to rest for 30 minutes (this will make for a smoother dough).
2Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Working in batches, ladle a little of the dough into the spätzle maker, “grate” it into the water and cook for a few minutes or until the noodles rise to the top.
3Remove the spätzle from the pan with a slotted spoon and drain in a colander. Repeat with the remaining dough.
4Toss the spätzle with the butter and serve immediately with any dish or stew that has a good amount of gravy. Alternatively, melt the butter in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat, add the spätzle, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the edges start to brown and go crispy. Serve sprinkled with the parsley.
Making pasta from scratch may seem hard, but it’s not. Here’s a great story to show you why. My kids and I were sitting on the couch wondering what to eat. We decided on soup. “I wish we had some plain pasta to put in it,” I said. “I’ll make some,” said my daughter Eve, age 17. “I’ll help!” said Lucia, age 8. Fifteen minutes later, we had homemade pasta. And fifteen minutes after that, my wish came true. Here is Eve’s recipe, which she learned in Italy. Serves 2
¾ cup all-purpose flour
1 large egg
1Pour the flour onto a clean work surface and create a well in the center.
2Add the egg to the well and using a fork, slowly and gradually combine the flour with the egg, starting at the inner edge of the well.
3When the mixture is dry enough to knead, use your hands to bring it together and start kneading. Knead for about 5 minutes—the dough should feel a little elastic.
4Flatten the dough and feed through a pasta machine at the thickest setting. Repeat 7 times, using a thinner setting each time.
5Cut or slice the shapes you prefer from the pasta, using a knife or the setting on your pasta machine.
6Cook in a large saucepan of boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes, until al dente. Drain and serve.
TIP: To increase the quantity of pasta, simply multiply the flour and egg. If using whole wheat flour, only use ½ cup of whole wheat flour to 1 egg.
If there is one thing to make from scratch and have on hand all winter long, it’s homemade tomato sauce. Over the years I’ve tried everything and this is my final verdict: Taking off the skins and removing the seeds makes the sauce too sweet and it’s not worth the effort. Putting in the whole tomato makes the sauce too watery. Using the whole tomato, but squeezing out some of the juice, makes it just right. Makes 1 quart
5 pounds tomatoes
1 clove garlic, peeled
1 teaspoon salt
Leaves from 1 sprig fresh basil
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1Cut out any brown spots from the tomatoes, core, halve through the equator, and gently squeeze the juice from the tomatoes. (Don’t squeeze too hard; you still want a bit of juice in there.)
2Working in batches, place the tomatoes in a food processor or blender with the garlic, salt, and basil and process to combine. If you prefer a chunky tomato sauce, simply cut the tomatoes into quarters and roughly mash with a potato masher.
3In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the tomato pulp, stir, and reduce the heat to low. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for 2 hours, until the sauce has reached your desired consistency.
4Pour the hot sauce into wide-mouthed glass jars, leaving 1 inch of space at the top for the sauce to expand. Let the jars cool before you put them in the freezer to freeze for up to 10 months (be sure to label and date them!).
TIP: This basic recipe can be used as a base to make other sauces. I like to add a little butter and serve with pasta and Romano cheese. The best way to maximize your efforts is to quadruple this recipe and make a big batch. If you don’t grow your own organic tomatoes, head to the farmers’ market in late August and buy a big basketful. You won’t regret it.
This is a fresher and quicker pasta sauce than the basic sauce, but it still freezes well. It’s best made with fresh, not canned, tomatoes. If you’re serving it with pasta, add the pasta to the marinara sauce in the pan, toss to combine, and let it sit for a few minutes to maximize the flavor. If you like your sauce a little spicy, feel free to add a pinch of cayenne pepper. Makes 1 quart
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
8 cloves garlic, finely chopped
5 pounds tomatoes, chopped
¼ cup chopped fresh basil leaves
1 teaspoon salt
1In a large soup pot heat the oil over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and sauté gently for 2 minutes until soft.
2Add the tomatoes, bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low and cook for 30 to 45 minutes.
3Add the basil and salt and stir to combine. Use immediately or pour the hot sauce into wide-mouthed glass jars, leaving 1 inch of space at the top for the sauce to expand, and refrigerate or freeze.
TIP: This is quite a juicy sauce. You can simmer it for longer to thicken, if desired, about another 30 minutes.
No good Italian event would be complete without a big vat of ziti. The Italians are experts at making delicious, easy food that doesn’t break the bank, and ziti is at the top of that list. Serve with a simple salad with Italian dressing, and you’ve got a delicious and affordable meal your whole family will love. Serves 6
1 pound ziti pasta
3 cups tomato sauce, store-bought or homemade
8 ounces low-moisture mozzarella cheese, shredded
8 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, sliced
⅓ cup grated Romano cheese
1Preheat the oven to 375°F.
2Cook the pasta according to package directions. Drain and transfer to a 12 × 8-inch baking dish.
3Add the tomato sauce and two-thirds of the grated mozzarella to the pasta and mix to combine. Top with the remaining grated mozzarella as well as the slices of fresh mozzarella and sprinkle with the Romano. Bake for 30 minutes, or until golden and bubbling.
TIP: You can sneak in some vegetables if you want, such as chopped spinach, peas, or mushrooms. You can also add ricotta cheese. You can even add cooked ground beef or sausage, which makes it taste like lasagna, but a heck of a lot easier to make! Double this for a party.
On one of the first trips to visit my future in-laws, Rita Cinquino served manicotti. I had never, ever tasted anything so good before. And as much as I loved Lou back then, I have to say the manicotti might have sealed the deal. It’s a bit of an effort to make, but so worth it. The secret is that the manicotti shell is made like a crêpe. This is my godson Geoffrey’s favorite meal. Serves 4 to 6
CRÊPES
1 cup water
4 large eggs
1 cup all-purpose flour
Pinch of salt
Extra virgin olive oil, for the skillet
FILLING
1 pound ricotta cheese
⅓ cup grated Romano cheese
1 large egg
Leaves from 2 sprigs fresh Italian parsley, chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2To make the crêpes: In a bowl, whisk together the water and eggs. Add the flour and salt and whisk to combine.
3Lightly oil an 8-inch skillet and heat over medium heat. Ladle in just enough batter to lightly cover the bottom of the pan. Cook for 1 minute each side or until golden. Repeat; you should get about 10 crêpes. Stack them on a plate and set aside (they won’t stick together).
4To make the filling: In a bowl, mix together the cheeses, egg, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste.
5To assemble the manicotti, spread 3 tablespoons of the filling into the center of each crêpe and roll up to enclose (like a cigar).
6Spoon half the tomato sauce into the bottom of a 13 × 9-inch baking dish. Top with the filled manicotti and spoon over the remaining sauce. Bake for 30 minutes, or until bubbling.
This is how my mom made mac ’n’ cheese. It works really well as a big party dish as well as a weeknight dinner. My favorite part is the crispy topping. You can leave out the pine nuts if you prefer. Serves 6
1 pound elbow or rotini pasta
8 ounces cheddar cheese, shredded
4 ounces Colby cheese, shredded
1 cup whole milk
3 tablespoons butter
Salt
CRISPY TOPPING
½ cup coarse dried breadcrumbs (see homemade dried breadcrumbs)
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil or melted butter
¼ cup pine nuts (optional)
1Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2Cook the pasta according to package directions. Drain and return to the pot.
3Add the cheeses, milk, butter, and salt to taste to the pasta and stir until the cheese is melted and everything is combined. Spread the mixture in a 12 × 8-inch baking dish.
4To make the crispy topping: In a small bowl, mix to combine the breadcrumbs, oil, and pine nuts (if using). Sprinkle the breadcrumb mixture over the pasta. Transfer to the oven, and bake for 40 minutes, or until golden and bubbling.
For years I made the longer, baked version of mac ’n’ cheese (slow ’n’ crispy mac ’n’ cheese). But, finally, half my family confessed that they liked this speedy version better. The other half, including me, still prefer the longer, crispier version, so I am giving you both recipes so that you can decide. This is great for weeknight dinners when you need something fast, filling, and delicious. Serves 6
1 pound elbow or rotini pasta
8 ounces cheddar cheese, shredded
4 ounces Colby cheese, shredded
1 cup whole milk
3 tablespoons butter
Salt
1Cook the pasta according to package directions. Drain and return to the pot.
2Add the cheeses, milk, butter, and salt to taste and mix until the cheese and butter have melted.
TIP: You can stir in some peas, chopped baby spinach leaves or kale, sautéed mushrooms, or chopped cooked ham if desired.
This is a classic Cinquino family recipe that I would never have believed tasted good until I tried it. Now we fight over the eggs, so I’ve added more than usual to this recipe so there are plenty. Adding a whole onion to the cooking sauce is a technique I pinched from famous Italian cookery writer, Marcella Hazan. It adds so much flavor, but you remove the onion before you serve the sauce. Serves 4
3 cups tomato sauce, store-bought or homemade
4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter
1 medium onion, peeled but left whole
6 large eggs, hard-boiled, peeled
1 pound spaghetti
Grated Romano cheese, for serving
1In a deep, medium saucepan, heat the sauce over low heat until warmed through. Add the butter and the whole onion and stir to melt and combine the butter.
2Add the eggs and continue to cook gently over low heat while you cook the pasta.
3Cook the pasta according to package directions. Drain and divide among 4 serving bowls.
4Discard the onion and divide the sauce among the bowls, adding eggs to each. Pass grated Romano at the table.
When I first met Louie Cinquino, whose parents were from Abruzzi, Italy, all he could talk about was the region’s famous fish stew. (Although he had never eaten it himself—it was a matter of legend.) So when we went to Abruzzi to visit relatives, we had to have the fish stew. It was incredible. What I now know, many years later, is that I will never be able to exactly replicate the taste—the fish were fresh from the Adriatic and the olive oil was freshly pressed—but I could come close. Use whatever fish is readily available to you. Serves 8
2 pounds assorted fish and shellfish (such as snapper, cod, red mullet, clams, mussels, and shrimp)
4 large tomatoes, chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped
⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil
⅓ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves, plus extra for serving
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound spaghetti
1Preheat the oven to 375°F.
2To prepare the seafood, cut the fish into 2- to 3-inch pieces, scrub the clams and mussels, and peel and devein the shrimp.
3In a heavy-bottomed 12-inch ovenproof skillet or Dutch oven (Italians traditionally use an earthenware dish), combine the tomatoes, garlic, oil, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Cover with a lid and bake the mixture for 10 minutes.
4Season the fish with a little salt and pepper and gently place in the tomatoes. Cover and bake for another 10 minutes, or until the fish is opaque.
5Scatter the shellfish over the top, cover, and continue to bake for 10 minutes, or until all the shells have opened and the shrimp is opaque.
6While the seafood is baking, cook the spaghetti according to package directions. Drain.
7Add the pasta to the pan with the seafood and mix gently to combine. Sprinkle with parsley and serve family style.
Apparently there is a hot, never-ending debate about whether or not you are allowed to put cheese (such as Romano or Parmesan) on seafood dishes in Italy. After being married to an Italian for 20 years, I realized that for the Italians, the debate is the fun part. As a born-and-bred American mutt, I say break the rules and do whatever you want! I like cheese—Romano cheese.
I call this my no-cook pasta because you don’t have to cook the sauce. I made this up when my family and I were all starving and it was hot. I happened to have some fresh organic rigatoni pasta from my local farmers’ market on hand and tried a fresher take on a conventional tomato-based sauce. Everyone loved it and it was so easy; it makes an excellent summer pasta dish. Serves 4 to 6
1 pound pasta, such as rigatoni
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 or 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
5 or 6 small tomatoes, chopped
8 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, torn into small pieces
¼ cup chopped fresh basil leaves
¼ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
Freshly ground black pepper
Grated pecorino cheese, for serving
1Cook the pasta according to package directions.
2Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the oil, garlic, tomatoes, mozzarella, basil, and parsley and toss to combine.
3Drain the pasta, add to the bowl, and toss to coat, adding more oil if necessary. Season with pepper to taste and pass grated pecorino at the table.
FROM THE BLOG
“Make the pasta out of zucchini or yellow squash spirals and it really could be a no-cook ‘pasta.’ Plan on trying it soon :)” —JOYCE
My dad didn’t make dinner very often, but when he did, this was his specialty. It’s a Bolognese sauce, but we didn’t call it that. His secret ingredient was maple syrup. He also used a bit of red wine, but since we’re now an alcohol-free household we just skip that part; but feel free to add about ⅓ cup. You can also use sausage instead of beef. Serves 4
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 white onion, chopped
1 green bell pepper, chopped (optional)
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 pound ground beef
3 cups tomato sauce, store-bought or homemade
1 can (6 ounces) tomato paste
1 tablespoon Italian seasoning
1 tablespoon maple syrup
Salt
1 pound spaghetti
Grated Romano cheese, for serving
1In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and bell pepper (if using) and cook, stirring, for 5 to 6 minutes, until starting to brown and soften. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute, or until golden.
2Add the ground beef and cook for 5 minutes, stirring, or until browned.
3Add the tomato sauce and paste, Italian seasoning, maple syrup, and salt to taste and bring to a simmer. Cook for 20 minutes, or until thickened slightly.
4While the sauce is simmering, cook the spaghetti according to package directions.
5Drain the pasta and divide among 4 bowls. Spoon the sauce over the pasta and pass grated Romano at the table.
This dish is more Greek-inspired than Italian. I invented it after getting home from a trip and finding nothing in the fridge, but everything in the garden. And it only took about 20 minutes to make—10 of those minutes just waiting for the water for the pasta to boil! If I’m making a grown-up version, I like to add red pepper flakes; you could add olives and capers, too. Serves 4
1 pound fettuccine
2 tablespoons butter or extra virgin olive oil
10 small tomatoes, chopped
1 handful green beans, halved
Leaves from 2 sprigs fresh basil, chopped
¼ cup pine nuts, toasted (see toasting nuts)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Grated Romano cheese, for serving
1Cook the fettuccine according to package directions.
2Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat the butter or oil over medium heat. Add the tomatoes, beans, and basil and cook for 10 minutes, or until the beans are tender.
3Add the pine nuts and salt and pepper to taste and stir to combine.
4Drain the pasta, divide among 4 plates, and top with the sauce. Pass grated Romano at the table.
TIP: I used Rattlesnake pole beans and heirloom Romano beans.
When I was younger, making lasagna felt like a rite of passage. I would make it for boyfriends to prove that I was suitable or worthy. Sad, right? Now I just make it because it tastes good. It’s a bit of a process, but worth the work—especially for a large group because you can put it together in advance and cook it later, or even freeze it. Serves 6 to 8
1 box (12 ounces) dried lasagna sheets
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 pound ground beef (or sausage or both)
6 cups tomato sauce, store-bought or homemade
1 can (6 ounces) tomato paste
¼ cup chopped fresh basil leaves
¼ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
½ teaspoon dried oregano
15 ounces ricotta cheese
8 ounces low-moisture part-skim mozzarella cheese, shredded
8 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, sliced
½ cup grated Romano cheese
1Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2Cook the lasagna sheets according to package instructions, but just shy of al dente. Drain and set aside in a single layer on parchment paper.
3In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute, or until golden. Add the meat and cook for 5 minutes, stirring, or until browned.
4Add the tomato sauce, tomato paste, and herbs and stir to combine. Reduce the heat to low and simmer the sauce for 15 minutes to thicken.
5Spoon one-quarter of the sauce into the bottom of a 13 × 9-inch baking dish or lasagna pan. Top with a single layer of pasta sheets, followed by one-third of the remaining sauce, ensuring the sheets are well covered. Layer with one-third each of the ricotta and shredded mozzarella.
6Top with another single layer of pasta sheets, half of the remaining sauce, and half each of the remaining ricotta and shredded mozzarella. Repeat for a final layer of pasta, sauce, and cheese (you will have 3 layers in total).
7Top with the sliced fresh mozzarella and grated Romano. Bake for 45 minutes, or until golden and bubbling. Let rest in the pan for 15 minutes before serving.
A long time ago, I went to the home of Yvon Chouinard to write an article. He is the founder of the outdoor brand, Patagonia. He made me dinner—actually, we made it together, but it was his recipe and I just helped shell the edamame. This is a recipe from memory, but I’ve made it a few times since and it’s yummy. Serves 6 to 8
1 pound thin spaghetti or angel hair pasta
4 medium tomatoes, chopped
½ small white onion, finely chopped
1 pound shelled edamame, steamed
⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Cook the pasta according to package directions.
2Meanwhile, place the tomato, onion, and edamame in a large bowl.
3Drain the pasta and add to the bowl with the oil and salt and pepper to taste and toss to combine. Divide among plates to serve.
This is a fresh and delicious pasta dish to make in the springtime when asparagus is in peak season. It’s nice for entertaining or for a quick, luxurious, and easy vegetarian dinner. Serves 4
1 pound linguine
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
1 red onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 bunch asparagus, trimmed and cut into thirds
1 cup heavy (whipping) cream
1 lemon
Salt
Chopped fresh mint and Italian parsley leaves, for serving
Grated Romano cheese, for serving
1Cook the linguine according to package directions.
2Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat the oil and butter over medium-low heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until soft. Add the asparagus and stir to combine.
3Add the cream, increase the heat to medium, and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally.
4Finely grate the lemon zest into the sauce, reserving the lemon. Drain the pasta and add to the skillet. Toss to combine and cook until just heated through. Remove from the heat.
5Halve the lemon and squeeze the juice over the pasta. Serve sprinkled with salt, mint, and parsley. Pass grated Romano at the table.
There are two types of clam sauces: creamy and noncreamy (not counting the tomato-based sauce that I don’t really care for). This one is creamy. This is a quick, delicious, and comforting clam sauce that just makes you feel good. Serves 4 to 6
1 pound linguine
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 pound chopped fresh clams
1 cup heavy (whipping) cream
½ cup grated Romano cheese
¼ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Cook the linguine according to package directions.
2Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat the oil and butter over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute, or until golden. Add the clams and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes.
3Add the cream and ¼ cup of the Romano and heat until it just comes to a boil.
4Drain the pasta and add to the skillet with the parsley and salt and pepper to taste and toss to combine. Divide among plates and pass the remaining grated Romano at the table.
TIP: If you like it spicy, simply add a little cayenne pepper to the sauce. If you’ve got kids who don’t like things too spicy, just bring the cayenne pepper to the table and let everyone spice things up as much as they want.
I had been making pesto for 20 years and it was totally delicious. However, I was mystified why it often turned brown. I was determined to figure out how to make it stay vivid bright green on the plate. The answer astounded me, but it works every time—blanching the basil leaves. Yes, blanching! A quick dip in boiling water is all the leaves need. Who knew? Serves 6
2 cups fresh basil leaves
1 pound pasta of your choice
3 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted (see toasting nuts)
1 clove garlic, peeled
½ cup grated Romano cheese
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
½ teaspoon salt
1Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil over high heat.
2Place the basil leaves in a colander and submerge in the boiling water, stirring constantly, for 10 seconds.
3Transfer the colander to a large bowl of iced water and stir to refresh the basil. Drain the basil on paper towels or a kitchen towel.
4Cook the pasta according to package directions.
5Meanwhile, in a blender or small food processer, combine the basil, pine nuts, garlic, Romano, oil, lemon juice, and salt and blend until smooth. If you don’t have a blender, you can make this in a mortar and pestle, too.
6Drain the pasta, return to the pan, and toss with the pesto.
TIP: For a creamy version, just add a little cream when tossing the pesto through the pasta.
“I have been making and freezing pesto for years and it always turned brown when cooked or exposed to the air. I tried this recipe and I am thrilled! My niece and I made over a gallon of pesto the other day and it is neon green, even frozen. I freeze some in ice cube trays and then pop them in baggies for when I just need a little. Thank you so much for the great tip.” —PAMMY
If you’re looking for a quick, totally satisfying meal, this is it. It’s pretty versatile—I’ll often serve it as a weeknight meal because it’s easy, but it’s also great for a casual dinner party. If you have diners who can’t tolerate spice, serve the red pepper flakes separately. Serves 6
1 pound pasta of your choice
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 pound sausages, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 cups chopped broccoli rabe or regular broccoli florets
¼ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
Crushed red pepper flakes or hot chili oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Grated Romano cheese, for serving
1Cook the pasta according to package directions.
2Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and cook, stirring, for 6 minutes, or until browned.
3Add the garlic and broccoli rabe and cook, stirring, for 1 to 2 minutes.
4Drain the pasta and add to the skillet with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, the parsley, and pepper flakes, salt, and black pepper to taste. Toss to combine. Divide among serving plates. Pass grated Romano at the table.
TIP: Instead of slicing the sausage, you could also simply remove the casings and crumble the meat into the skillet.
Where I live in Pennsylvania, there is a large contingent of Eastern European immigrants, and one thing you see at almost every church festival is haluski—cabbage and noodles (not to be confused with its cousin halupki, which are stuffed cabbage rolls). This is totally delicious, even if you’re not a cabbage fan. You can use regular, savoy, or napa cabbage—the latter two will require less cooking time. Serves 4 to 6
1 stick (4 ounces) butter
1 large onion, chopped
1 head cabbage, cored and chopped
1 pound wide egg noodles (I use Kluski egg noodles)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1In a large heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, for 10 minutes, or until softened but not browned.
2Add the cabbage, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes, or until softened.
3Meanwhile, cook the noodles according to package directions.
4Drain the noodles, add to the pan along with salt and pepper to taste and toss to combine. Divide among plates to serve.
TIP: You can serve this as a simple main dish (it’s very easy to upsize for a potluck party) or as a side dish with meats.
Squid ink pasta is black pasta that looks scary, but unless you’ve tried it, you won’t appreciate its subtle deliciousness. It’s perfect for pairing with seafood, given that its inky color comes from the sea itself. It has a lovely depth of flavor. If you like, you could add a few roughly chopped fresh tomatoes during the last few minutes of cooking time. Serves 4
1 pound squid ink pasta
3 tablespoons butter
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
½ pound squid, with tentacles, cleaned and chopped
½ pound shrimp, peeled and deveined
½ pound cooked lobster meat, coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, for serving
¼ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
⅓ cup grated Romano cheese
1Cook the pasta according to package directions.
2Meanwhile, in a large skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat and cook until golden. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute, or until golden.
3Add the squid, shrimp, and lobster all at once and cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes, until just cooked.
4Drain the pasta and add to the skillet. Drizzle with the oil, sprinkle with the parsley and salt and pepper to taste, and toss to combine. Divide among serving plates and pass grated Romano at the table.
TIP: You can buy cleaned fresh or frozen squid from your fishmonger. Fresh will always taste best.
This is more of a side dish, but a classic one that my mother made and often served with pork chops. The browned butter adds a whole different, richer flavor to the noodles. You can cook this dish with any type of pasta, but I like the flavor of egg noodles. Serves 6 as a side
12 ounces wide egg noodles
5 tablespoons butter
Salt
1Cook the noodles according to package directions.
2Meanwhile, in a small skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat and cook for about 2 minutes, or until golden and browned.
3Drain the noodles and return to the saucepan. Pour the browned butter over the noodles, sprinkle with salt to taste, and toss to combine.
Where do recipes come from? From necessity, distant memories, and problem solving, mostly. This one came from the fact that my littlest one won’t eat hamburger, but loves sausage. And I had some fresh pasta and a green pepper from my late-summer garden. It tasted remarkably similar to a dish I order from my local Chinese restaurant’s secret menu—without the spice! Serves 4 to 6
1 pound pappardelle or tagliatelle pasta
1 pound sweet or hot Italian sausage, loose or casings removed
1 green bell pepper, chopped
⅓ cup all-purpose flour
2 cups water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Grated Romano cheese, for serving
1Cook the pasta according to package directions.
2Meanwhile, in a medium cast-iron skillet, fry the sausage meat over medium-high heat, breaking up the meat with a spoon, for about 4 minutes, or until just browned and cooked through.
3Add the bell pepper and cook, stirring, for 4 minutes, or until slightly browned and
4softened. In a small bowl, whisk together the flour and water. Add the mixture to the skillet and cook for 2 minutes, or until thickened. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste and mix to combine.
5Drain the pasta and divide among serving plates. Top with the sausage and gravy and pass grated Romano at the table.
I’m not a huge fan of peanut butter. But every once in a while I get a craving. And in the summer, it’s nice to eat a cold, savory, and satisfying dish. I think this recipe originally came from the Moosewood Cookbook. I have an old Xerox of the recipe in my recipe notebook, covered in sticky stuff. But I’ve made a few alterations. For example, I don’t include the sprouts from the original recipe. Serves 6
1 pound soba noodles or whole wheat spaghetti
⅓ cup smooth peanut butter
2 tablespoons hot water
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon hot chili oil (optional)
1 cucumber, halved lengthwise and sliced into half-moons
Black or white sesame seeds, for garnish
Chopped fresh cilantro leaves and scallions, for garnish
Lime wedges, for serving
1Cook the noodles according to package directions. Drain, rinse under cold water, and transfer to a large bowl. Set aside.
2In a bowl, whisk together the peanut butter, hot water, soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, and chili oil (if using).
3Add the sauce to the noodles and toss to coat. Add the cucumber and toss to combine.
4Refrigerate the noodles for 2 hours to chill. Toss before serving, adding more peanut butter thinned with warm water if the noodles seem dry. Garnish with sesame seeds, cilantro, and scallions. Serve with lime wedges.
