What makes a side a side? It’s all relative. Most sides in our house are plain. Plain raw vegetables. Steamed green beans. Or even frozen peas. Gasp! You should never hesitate to use frozen organic vegetables as a side dish. But this is a cookbook, after all, so these sides span the spectrum of simple (mashed potatoes) to complex for special occasions (sausage stuffing). Some of them could be a meal in themselves (just add pasta to the crispy Brussels sprouts and you’ve got a main course) or a party appetizer (the marinated eggplant with mint, for example).
The important thing I’ve tried to do is capture the simple essence of something. And capture it organically. What that means is that I don’t want to give up on my family’s favorite foods just because we want to avoid “conventional” chemical ingredients and foods.
Take rice pilaf, for example. My kids and I used to love the classic packaged version, but it wasn’t organic. It took me a while and some experimenting, but I finally figured out how to replicate the taste. And I made it taste better than the package. So now, it’s the homemade version we all desire. And it’s made from things I have around the house, so there is no extra packaging and the extra price that goes with all that “convenience.”
Which I guess brings me to another point. Making things from scratch not only tastes better, but it can be cheaper, too. And if you are one of those people who says their kids won’t eat vegetables? I have three recommendations. First, make sure that YOU eat vegetables. Kids will most often do what you do. Second, make sure you make the vegetables taste good. If that means adding some butter or cheese (or ranch dressing), so be it! Third, plant a garden with your kids. Kids who grow vegetables learn to love vegetables. It’s a scientific fact.
I grew up with my mother’s favorite stuffing, but I never really liked it, and much preferred my grandmother’s stuffing—even though she would put dried apricots in it. Then I met Lou (now my ex-husband) and tasted his mother’s Italian sausage stuffing, and I knew I could never live without the recipe. Cooking the stuffing separately from the bird requires more liquid to keep it moist, but also results in a lovely crunchy top. This is best served with my Roast Turkey and Pan Gravy. Serves 10
12 cups cubed (1 inch) bread, white or wheat
1 onion, chopped
1 small head celery, trimmed and chopped
½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
2 to 3 tablespoons poultry seasoning (to taste)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound hot Italian sausages, casings removed
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
1 cup whole milk, or more as needed
1 cup chicken stock, store-bought or homemade, or more as needed
1Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2In a bowl, mix together the bread cubes, onion, celery, parsley, poultry seasoning, and salt and pepper to taste. Break the sausage into small pieces and add to the bowl.
3In a small saucepan, combine the butter, milk, and stock and heat over high heat until the butter has melted and the mixture is warmed through.
4Pour the liquid gradually over the bread mixture until moist but not too wet. Transfer to a large baking dish and bake for 1 hour, or until golden and bubbling.
When I was much, much younger, I made instant (organic) mashed potatoes, thinking it was the most modern thing. But then I realized making mashed potatoes from scratch was just as easy and so much more delicious. So many people overcomplicate what is essentially already perfect. You can scale this recipe up easily to serve more people. Serve with my Crispy Roast Chicken with Gravy or Crispy-Skinned Salmon with Herb Dressing. Serves 4
4 large potatoes (such as russet or Yukon Gold), peeled and cubed
⅓ cup whole milk
4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, melted
Salt
1In a large saucepan, combine the potatoes with cold water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook for 10 to 12 minutes, until tender and soft.
2Drain the potatoes, return to the pan, and mash with a hand masher.
3Add the milk and melted butter and mash until smooth. Depending on the variety of potatoes you use, you may need less milk to achieve the right consistency. Start with less and add more if you need it.
4Season with salt, stir to combine, and serve with your favorite main.
TIP: Try using blue potatoes in this recipe. They taste great and come out a lovely lavender color. I also love to add a bit of fresh chopped lovage if and when I can find it.
FROM THE BLOG
“Mashed potatoes have been a favorite since I was young. My grandmother taught me that warmed milk makes better mashed potatoes than cold from the fridge, better texture.” —BARBARA
Gravy, real gravy, has to be one of the best foods on earth. It makes everything taste better (here’s looking at you rice, potatoes, stuffing, and bread). Gourmet machinations just mess it up. I know some people make it in a saucepan with broth and giblets. I’ve never quite understood the appeal of that. I’ve only made gravy one way, and it’s the way my mother made it before me, and the way my kids are already making it after me. Why mess with perfection? Serves 4 to 6
Pan drippings from roasting chicken or turkey
¼ to ½ cup all-purpose flour (depending on how many drippings you have)
1 cup water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1After roasting a chicken or turkey (which I always do in a high-sided roasting pan), I transfer the bird to a platter, tilting the bird first so all its juices run into the roasting pan. Then place the roasting pan on the stovetop.
2In a small bowl or glass, combine the flour and water and whisk with a fork until there are no lumps.
3Heat the pan drippings over high heat until bubbling (spoon off some of the fat, if desired) and add the flour mixture, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon. Make sure you scrape all the browned bits from the bottom of the pan (that’s where the flavor is!). Cook for a few minutes, stirring, until golden and thickened. Season with salt and pepper and stir to combine. Serve the pan gravy with the bird you just roasted.
Sometimes a girl just needs some fries—definitely with a burger, and maybe with some fish. So, when I am cooking at home and in desperate need of fries, I make this recipe, which is exceedingly simple, easy, and delicious. There have never been leftovers. Ever. And if my son-in-law comes over, I have to quadruple the recipe. Serves 4
6 potatoes
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt
1Preheat the oven to 425°F.
2Wash the potatoes and peel them (or leave on if the skin is in good shape). Cut into fry shapes and place the potato pieces in cold water as you cut them to prevent browning.
3Drain the potatoes in a single layer on paper towels or a clean kitchen towel and pat dry as much as possible.
4Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet, add the oil, and toss until well coated (add more oil if you like). Spread the fries in a single layer, sprinkle with salt, and roast until golden and crisp, about 30 minutes (for thin fries) or 1 hour (for thick fries).
TIP: Feel free to add all sorts of spices and flavorings, although I have found plain to be the best and most deeply satisfying.
For the most tasty and delicious tacos, huevos rancheros, or simply a side for any Mexican dish, these beans are packed with flavor and so quick and easy to make. I also spoon them on top of Nachos for a quick snack or an easy meal. Serves 2
Olive oil, for the pan
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground chili powder
1 can (14 to 19 ounces) black or pinto beans, drained and rinsed
⅔ cup water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Hickory smoke flavoring (optional)
1In a saucepan, heat a little oil over medium-high heat. Add the cumin and chili powder and stir to combine. Cook, stirring, for 30 seconds, or until foamy.
2Add the beans and stir to combine. Add water, salt and pepper to taste, and a drop or two of hickory flavoring (if using). Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 20 minutes.
I love real homemade cornbread. Not the dry, crumbly, and overly sweet kind that passes for cornbread these days. I like it moist, savory, warm, and comforting. And I like it with bacon. My youngest daughter thinks it needs a bit of sugar, but we just drizzle a little honey over her piece. Serve with soup, chili, or anything Southern. Serves 6 to 8
8 slices bacon
1½ cups whole-grain medium-grind cornmeal
¼ cup white whole wheat flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon baking powder
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, cut into cubes
2 large eggs
2 cups whole milk
1Preheat the oven to 425°F.
2In a medium cast-iron skillet, cook the bacon over high heat until crisp. Drain on a plate lined with paper towels. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the bacon drippings.
3In a bowl, mix together the cornmeal, flour, salt, and baking powder. Add the butter and rub it into the flour with your fingertips until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs.
4In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs and milk together. Add to the flour mixture and stir to combine.
5Break up the bacon into small pieces and stir into the batter.
6Pour the batter into the skillet and transfer to the oven. Bake for 20 minutes, or until golden.
I once had a brief but torrid affair with scalloped potatoes from a box. I first tasted them in my mid-30s at someone’s house and became obsessed with their intense flavor. But after a while I realized that that flavor was salt, and probably some MSG. This recipe is my mother’s original and the key thing is to cook the potatoes long enough so that they get truly soft. Serves 8
2 pounds potatoes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups grated cheddar cheese
¾ cup whole milk
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for the baking dish
1Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease an 8-inch-square baking dish.
2Thinly slice the potatoes using a mandoline. Soak the potato slices in a bowl of cold water for a few minutes to remove some of the starch. Drain on paper towels and pat dry.
3Place a layer of potatoes in the bottom of the baking dish, slightly overlapping the slices. Season with salt and pepper, then sprinkle with ¼ cup of the cheddar. Repeat layers of potatoes, salt, pepper, and cheese, finishing with a layer of cheese. (You should have 5 or 6 layers.)
4Pour the milk over the potato mixture and drizzle with the 2 tablespoons oil. Bake for 1 hour 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender and bubbling and the top is dark golden.
TIP: Feel free to experiment with different cheeses. My grandmother couldn’t eat cheese, so she would make this with onions and olive oil.
To me, the ubiquitous sweet potato casserole with marshmallows on top is not an essential part of a holiday meal. However, I made this for my daughter’s in-laws from the U.K. for their first Thanksgiving experience and it’s been a hit ever since. Serves 8 to 10
3 large sweet potatoes (about 1½ pounds total)
½ cup whole milk
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted
1 large egg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
TOPPING
1 cup coarsely chopped pecans
¼ cup packed light brown sugar
¼ cup all-purpose flour
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted
Marshmallows (optional)
1Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2Place the sweet potatoes on the prepared sheet and bake, in their skins, for about 1 hour. Set aside to cool slightly. Leave the oven on.
3Peel the skins from the sweet potato and place the flesh in a large bowl with the milk, melted butter, egg, and vanilla and mash to combine. Transfer the mixture to a 9-inch greased baking dish.
4To make the topping: In a bowl, mix together the pecans, brown sugar, flour, and melted butter. Sprinkle the mixture over the sweet potatoes and bake for 45 minutes, or until golden. If topping with marshmallows (as many as you like), add them for the last 5 to 10 minutes of baking time and bake until golden.
We have always loved the boxed rice pilaf from the store that cooks up quickly and flavorfully. But I’ve stopped buying it, since it isn’t organic. I experimented with making my own recipe and this is the tasty result. This goes really well with any sort of Middle Eastern food; serve with my Lamb Meatballs and Eve’s Hummus. Serves 4
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 teaspoon dried minced onion
½ teaspoon garlic powder
1 cup long-grain white or brown rice
½ cup slivered almonds
¼ teaspoon salt
2 cups chicken stock, store-bought or homemade
1In a large covered saucepan, heat the oil and butter over high heat. Add the dried onion and garlic powder and cook, stirring, until lightly toasted and fragrant.
2Add the rice, almonds, and salt and stir to coat the rice.
3Add the stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and cook, covered, until the rice is tender and the liquid has been absorbed, about 20 minutes for white rice, 50 minutes for brown rice.
One of Louie Cinquino’s traditional dishes at the Christmas Eve feast is what he called “Fooey.” I have no idea where the term came from. It’s one of those dishes that looks kind of weird and sounds like something I really wouldn’t like to eat, but it has become one of my favorite things. It’s hot, salty, and crispy all at once and it’s so delicious. You need to use savoy cabbage, because the texture is softer and the taste is better for this dish. This is delicious with fish. Serves 6
1 head savoy cabbage (about 2 pounds), cored and coarsely chopped
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 jar (3.5 to 4.5 ounces) anchovies in oil
¼ cup all-purpose flour
5 or 6 dried chiles (to taste), such as chile de árbol, Thai, or cayenne
1Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the cabbage and cook for 5 minutes, or until wilted. Drain and set aside.
2In a large cast-iron skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of the oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute, until fragrant. Add the cabbage, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 15 minutes, or until very tender.
3Meanwhile, in a small cast-iron skillet, combine the jar of anchovies with their oil and the flour and cook over medium-low heat, breaking up the mixture with a wooden spoon, for 7 to 8 minutes, until small, crunchy brown crumbs form. Transfer the anchovy crumbs to a small bowl, add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, and stir to combine.
4Wipe out the skillet. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil over high heat. Add the chiles and fry, turning to make sure they cook on both sides, for 1 to 2 minutes, until they darken and crisp up. Transfer the chiles and oil to a bowl.
5Serve the cabbage with the anchovy crumbs and chiles separately so people can add to taste.
My daughter Lucia found the basis of this recipe in Highlights magazine and asked if she could make it. The recipe was called Cowboy Cornbread and had sugar in it. We wanted our cornbread savory, not sweet, so we took the sugar out and renamed the recipe to suit the little cowgirl! Serve with my Venison Chili. Serves 6 to 8
2 cups grated cheese (such as cheddar or Colby)
1½ cups all-purpose flour
½ cup cornmeal
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1¼ cups whole milk
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
½ cup vegetable oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2In a large bowl, mix together the cheese, flour, cornmeal, baking powder, and salt. Add the milk, eggs, and oil and using a wooden spoon or spatula, mix to combine.
3In an 8-inch cast-iron or ovenproof skillet, melt the butter over high heat. Add the batter and transfer to the oven. Bake for 30 minutes, or until golden. For golden brown cornbread you can pop it under the broiler for 5 minutes to finish.
Did you ever make something good to eat and then realize that you were out of bread—or even worse, out of good bread—to serve with it? That’s where biscuits come in. The best thing about these biscuits is they are super quick to make and, honestly, fairly foolproof. You can make them with white flour or whole wheat flour. You can add herbs or cheese. Serve them immediately with soup or ham, or just some jam. Makes about 12 biscuits
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into cubes
1 cup whole milk
1Preheat the oven to 450°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
2In a bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the butter and rub it into the flour with your fingertips until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs.
3Add the milk and stir gently to combine (do not overwork the dough). The consistency should be firm but not hard. If the batter seems too wet, add more flour. If the batter seems too dry, add more milk.
4Drop big spoonfuls of the dough onto the lined baking sheets, allowing room for the biscuits to spread.
5Bake until golden, about 15 minutes.
FROM THE BLOG
“We use this tried and true and super simple biscuit recipe on a regular basis. A yummy adjustment is substituting yogurt for the milk and stirring in some chopped chives.” —AMANDA
Yellow rice gets its color from the spice turmeric, which is very good for you—it has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant qualities. The color makes me feel very tropical! To make this vegetarian, just use vegetable stock instead of chicken stock. Serve with my Crispy Roast Chicken with Gravy. Serves 4
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 cup long-grain rice or basmati rice
½ teaspoon salt
2 cups chicken stock, store-bought or homemade
1In a saucepan, melt the butter in the oil over medium heat. Add the onion powder, garlic powder, and turmeric and cook briefly until foaming.
2Add the rice and salt and stir to coat the rice with the spices.
3Add the stock and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, until the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is tender. Fluff with a fork and serve.
Grits are super easy and while they may start out as an acquired taste, they will quickly evolve into a regular craving. They are great for breakfast (add some cut-up ham or bacon) or for dinner with seafood, chicken, or just some cooked vegetables. Serves 4
1 cup grits
½ cup whole milk
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Cook the grits according to the package directions.
2Add the milk, butter, cheddar, and salt and pepper to taste and stir until the cheese has melted and is combined.
I think my favorite cuisine of all time is Middle Eastern, and I’ve been learning to make it myself so that I don’t have to order every single thing on the menu when I go to my favorite local Middle Eastern restaurant, Aladdin. (And invariably end up too full!) One of my favorite appetizers is arnabit, which is roasted cauliflower with a garlicky tahini dressing. Serve with my Lamb Meatballs and Rice Pilaf, or even without the dressing—plain roasted cauliflower is delicious. Serves 4 to 6
1 head cauliflower, leaves removed
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Salt
Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or cilantro leaves, for garnish
TAHINI DRESSING
⅓ cup tahini
⅓ cup warm water
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
3 cloves garlic, crushed in a press
Salt
1Preheat the oven to 425°F.
2Cut the cauliflower into small florets, discarding the large stems, and arrange on a large rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with the oil, season with salt, and toss to combine.
3Spread the cauliflower out in a single layer and roast for 35 minutes, or until deep golden
4brown. Meanwhile, make the tahini dressing: In a bowl, stir together the tahini, water, lemon juice, garlic, and salt to taste until smooth. Add a little more water if the mixture is too thick.
5To serve, transfer the cauliflower to a serving dish, drizzle with the tahini dressing, and garnish with the parsley or cilantro.
This is also a regular appetizer at my local Middle Eastern restaurant, Aladdin. It’s fried zucchini with lemon and garlic. Generally, if I ask my kids if they want zucchini, they say no. But if I make this dish, it’s gone in 2 minutes. Serve with my Grilled Lemon-Garlic Chicken and Rice Pilaf. Serves 4
2 zucchini (about 1 pound)
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 clove garlic, crushed in a press
1Slice the zucchini into thin rounds (but not too thin, about ¼ inch thick).
2In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Working in batches, cook the zucchini for 2 to 3 minutes per side, until golden brown. Transfer to a plate and lightly season with salt.
3To serve, combine the lemon juice and garlic and pour over the zucchini.
My daughter Maya fell in love with a simple appetizer of roasted squash at New York’s ABC Kitchen (which showcases many local and organic offerings on its menu). This is her version of that dish. It goes great with my Crispy Roast Chicken with Gravy. Serves 4
1 butternut or other winter squash (2 to 3 pounds)
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon plus ⅛ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon plus ⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon plus ⅛ teaspoon sea salt
Pinch of cayenne pepper (optional)
Lemon wedges, for serving
1Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
2Peel the squash, halve it, and scoop out the seeds, reserving the seeds. Cut the squash into 1-inch pieces and transfer to a bowl. Drizzle the squash with 2 tablespoons oil, sprinkle with ½ teaspoon each of the cumin, cinnamon, and salt. Add the cayenne (if using) and toss to combine.
3Spread the squash on the prepared baking sheet and roast for 40 minutes, or until the squash is golden and very tender.
4Meanwhile, separate the squash seeds from the strings but do not wash them. Place the seeds in a bowl, drizzle with 1 teaspoon oil and sprinkle with the remaining ⅛ teaspoon each cumin, cinnamon, and salt. Toss to combine.
5Remove the baking sheet from the oven and make room at one edge. Spread the seeds on the sheet. Return the squash and seeds to the oven and roast for 10 minutes, or until the seeds are browned and crisp and the squash is golden.
6Transfer the squash to a serving dish, sprinkle with the seeds, and serve with lemon.
I used to hate Brussels sprouts. In fact, as a child I once went to bed without any dinner because I tried to hide them in my water glass, and then I tried to feed them to the dog. I’ve adapted this recipe from a book once recommended by an old friend. By John Thorne, it’s called Simple Cooking, and it’s the kind of cookbook that you read like a novel. This recipe has since become a family favorite. Serves 4
1½ pounds Brussels sprouts
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, chopped
¾ cup coarse dried breadcrumbs
½ cup finely grated Romano cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Trim the bases of the sprouts with a small knife and discard any brown outer leaves. Halve lengthwise.
2In a large pot of boiling water, blanch the Brussels sprouts for 3 minutes, or until they turn bright green. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Pat dry.
3In a large cast-iron skillet, melt the butter in the oil over medium-high heat. Add the sprouts and cook, turning, for 2 minutes, or until dark golden and starting to crisp. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute, or until golden.
4Add the breadcrumbs and cook until the breadcrumbs are golden and crispy, about 2 minutes. Add the Romano and stir until melted. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
TIP: These go really well with a holiday ham or turkey, or with my Roast Pork with Sauerkraut. You can also toss it with hot pasta to make a tasty main.
The first time my mother made this, I thought it was a weird combination. She used to toast almonds and put them on top of almost everything. Now my whole family loves it. It goes really well with fish or chicken. Serves 4
2 cups chopped celery
3 tablespoons butter
¼ cup slivered or chopped almonds, toasted (see toasting nuts)
1Place the celery in a saucepan with a little water and cook over medium heat for 3 minutes, until slightly softened.
2In a small skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat and cook until browned.
3Drain the celery and transfer to a serving dish. Pour the browned butter over the celery and sprinkle with the almonds.
Whenever we had steak on the grill growing up, we always had broiled tomatoes with cheese on the side. They are super easy to make and great in summer when you have an abundance of tomatoes. Use any fresh-from-the-garden tomatoes, or beefsteaks from the store or market. Serves 4 to 6
3 tomatoes, halved crosswise
¼ cup finely chopped white onion
½ cup shredded cheddar or Monterey Jack cheese
¼ cup dried breadcrumbs
3 tablespoons butter
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Preheat the broiler to high. Place the tomatoes, cut-side up, in a broiling pan or baking dish.
2Divide the onion, cheese, and breadcrumbs among the tomatoes and top each with a dab of the butter.
3Broil for 3 to 5 minutes, until the cheese is melted and the breadcrumbs are golden.
Many years ago I saw a recipe in Gourmet magazine for marinated eggplant and ripped it out. I’ve added my own twist to it (a little less fuss, a little less sugar, and so forth) and it’s totally delicious. Perfect for a party because you can make it in advance, it also makes a great appetizer or side with my Grilled Lemon-Garlic Chicken. It would be divine on an antipasto platter, too. Serves 4
1 large eggplant
Salt
5 tablespoons red wine vinegar
⅔ cup extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for brushing
1 clove garlic, crushed in a press
½ cup chopped fresh mint (I prefer apple mint)
1Cut the eggplant crosswise into ¼-inch-thick rounds. Sprinkle with salt and set aside in a colander for 30 minutes. Rinse the eggplant and pat dry with paper towels.
2Prepare a grill or preheat a large grill pan over high heat. Brush both sides of the eggplant with oil. Brush the grill grates or pan with more oil and grill the eggplant for a few minutes per side, until tender and charred. Transfer to a 13 × 9-inch baking dish.
3In a bowl, mix together the vinegar, ⅔ cup oil, garlic, and mint. Drizzle the mixture over the eggplant and marinate at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours or overnight in the fridge. Bring to room temperature before serving.
My daughter Eve and I once found an old apple tree on our property from which we collected a giant basket of the ugliest apples you ever saw—but they made the best sauce! It’s really easy to make and freeze, and my kids love it. The best apples for sauce are the ones that are tart (like Granny Smiths) and too mangled for regular eating. Serve immediately as a side to my Roast Pork with Sauerkraut. It’s also perfect with potato latkes or in my breakfast parfait (sour cherry breakfast parfait). Makes 12 cups
24 tart apples
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
6 whole cloves
2 sticks cinnamon
Granulated sugar (optional)
1Peel, core, and chop the apples.
2Fill a large saucepan with 2 inches of water (around 4 cups) and place on the stovetop over low heat. Add the apples, lemon juice, cloves, and cinnamon and stir to combine. Cook, uncovered, for 45 minutes, or until completely softened and the apples have broken down.
3Try the sauce. If it is too tart, add sugar to taste (up to ½ cup).
Generally, there are three types of people: those who won’t eat cranberry sauce at all; those who like it cooked and gelatinous; and those who prefer their sauce raw. I fall firmly into the raw camp. It is simply not a Thanksgiving meal without that tart, sweet, palate-cleansing, gorgeously magenta blob of cranberry sauce on my plate. The recipe I use is easy, but it needs to be made a day or two in advance for the sauce to reach its peak flavor. Makes 3 cups
2 cups fresh cranberries, rinsed and drained
2 oranges or tangerines
½ cup sugar (or to taste)
1Place the cranberries in a food processor or blender. Squeeze the juice from the oranges and add it to the cranberries.
2Trim the ends from the oranges and then coarsely chop, skin and all. Add to the processor and blend until roughly chopped (not smooth).
3Transfer to a bowl, add half the sugar, and stir to combine. If it is too tart, add a little more sugar to taste (up to ½ cup). Refrigerate for at least 24 hours to allow the flavors to develop.
TIP: It’s especially important to use organic citrus in this recipe since you are using the skins.
