Three of the best day-trip possibilities near London are Greenwich, Windsor, and Cambridge. Greenwich, technically within London’s city limits, is England’s maritime capital; Windsor, west of the city, has a very famous castle; and Cambridge, an hour to the north, is England’s best university town.
Other worthwhile destinations within day-tripping range of London are Stonehenge, Salisbury, and Bath, covered in other chapters in this book.
By Train: The British rail system uses London as a hub and normally offers same-day round-trip fares that cost virtually the same as one-way fares. For day trips, these “off-peak day return” tickets, available if you depart London outside rush hour (usually after 9:30 on weekdays and anytime Sat-Sun), are best. Note that a “day return” (round-trip within a single day) is different—and cheaper—than a “return,” so be sure to buy the right ticket. You can also save a little money if you purchase tickets before 18:00 the day before your trip.
By Train Tour: London Walks offers a variety of “Daytrips from London” tours year-round by train, including a Cambridge itinerary (£14 plus transportation and admissions costs, pick up their brochure at the TI or hotels, tel. 020/7624-3978, www.walks.com).
Tudor kings favored the palace at Greenwich (GREN-ich). Henry VIII was born here. Later kings commissioned architects Inigo Jones and Christopher Wren to beautify the town and palace, and William and Mary built a grand hospital to care for retired seamen (which later became a college for training naval officers).
Greenwich is England’s maritime capital. Visitors come here for all things salty, including the Cutty Sark clipper ship, the area’s premier attraction. The town is synonymous with timekeeping and astronomy, and at the Royal Observatory Greenwich, you can learn how those pursuits relate to seafaring. Greenwich also has stunning Baroque architecture, appealing markets, a fleet of nautical shops, plenty of parks, kid-friendly museums, and hordes of tourists. Since many of the major sights here are free to enter, and you can travel between central London and Greenwich on a cheap Tube ticket, it’s a wonderfully inexpensive day out. And where else can you set your watch with such accuracy?
Note that the town’s popular market is closed Monday year-round (and until November of 2012, the Cutty Sark is also closed on Mondays). If you plan to visit the Cutty Sark, it’s a good idea to reserve a ticket in advance and plan your day around your entry time. Before or after the Cutty Sark, stroll to the Discover Greenwich exhibit and TI, drop into the grand buildings of the Old Royal Naval College, and walk the shoreline promenade. Greenwich’s parks are picnic-perfect: Consider gathering picnic supplies before heading to the National Maritime Museum, and on through the park to the Royal Observatory Greenwich.
If you like to mix and match public transit, I’d suggest taking the boat to Greenwich for the scenery and commentary, and the Docklands Light Railway (DLR) back, especially if you want to stop at the Docklands on the way home. To visit the Docklands—the glittering forest of skyscrapers rising from a once-derelict port—hop off the train at the Canary Wharf stop for a quick stroll. From there, you can tack on a small detour to check out the 2012 Olympic Park site (see here).
It’s a joy by boat or a snap by DLR.
By Boat: From central London, you can cruise scenically down the Thames to Greenwich. Various tour boats—with commentary and open-deck seating up top—leave from the piers at Westminster, Waterloo, and the Tower of London (2/hour, 1-1.25 hours); note that most boats have commentary only on the way to Greenwich, not on the way back.
Thames Clippers offers faster trips, with no commentary and only a small deck at the stern (departs every 20-30 minutes from several piers in central London, 45 minutes). Thames Clippers also connects Greenwich to the Docklands’ Canary Wharf Pier (3/hour, 10 minutes).
For cruising details, see here.
By DLR: From Bank Station (also accessible from the Monument Tube station) in central London, take the DLR to Cutty Sark Station in central Greenwich; it’s one stop before the main—but less central—Greenwich Station (departs at least every 10 minutes, 20 minutes, all in Zone 2, covered by any Tube pass). Many DLR trains terminate at Canary Wharf, so make sure you get on one that continues to Lewisham or Greenwich. Some DLR trains terminate at Island Gardens—you can generally catch another train to Greenwich’s Cutty Sark Station within a few minutes. Or, disembark at Island Gardens for the unique experience of walking under the Thames into Greenwich: To reach the pedestrian tunnel, exit the station, cross the street and follow signs to Island Gardens for a good photo op. Then enter the red-brick Greenwich Foot Tunnel (opened in 1902), descend 86 spiral stairs, hold your breath, and re-emerge on dry land at the bow of the Cutty Sark.
By Train: Mainline trains also go from London (Cannon Street and London Bridge stations) several times an hour to Greenwich Station (10-minute walk from the sights). Although the train is fast and cheap, the DLR is preferable because it drops you right in the heart of town.
By Bus: Catch bus #188 from Russell Square near the British Museum (about 45 minutes to Greenwich).
Still well within the city limits of London, the Royal Borough of Greenwich—a title bestowed by the Queen in honor of her Diamond Jubilee—feels like a small town all its own. Covered markets and outdoor stalls make for lively weekends. Save time to browse the town. Wander beyond the touristy Church Street and Greenwich High Road to where flower stands spill onto the side streets and antique shops sell brass nautical knickknacks. King William Walk, College Approach, Nelson Road, and Turnpin Lane (all in the vicinity of Greenwich Market) are all worth a look. If you need pub grub, Greenwich has almost 100 pubs, with some boasting that they’re mere milliseconds from the prime meridian.
Markets: Thanks to its markets, Greenwich throbs with day-trippers on weekends. The Greenwich Market is an entertaining mini-Covent Garden, located in the middle of the block between the Cutty Sark DLR station and the Old Royal Naval College—right on your way to the sights (Tue-Sun 10:00-17:30, closed Mon; farmers’ market and food stands, antiques on Thu, arts and crafts on Sat-Sun; tel. 020/7515-7153, www.greenwichmarket.net). The Clocktower Market sells old odds and ends at high prices on Greenwich High Road, near the post office (Sat-Sun and bank holidays only 10:00-17:00, www.clocktowermarket.co.uk).
The TI is inside the Discover Greenwich visitor’s center (described later, under “Sights in Greenwich”). From the DLR station, turn left, pass under the brick archway, cross the street, and continue straight ahead to the monumental gateway for the Old Royal Naval College complex; Discover Greenwich is just inside the gate on the left (daily 10:00-17:00, Pepys House, 2 Cutty Sark Gardens, tel. 0870-608-2000, www.visitgreenwich.org.uk).
Guided walks, which depart from the TI, offer an overview of the town and go past most of the big sights (£7, daily at 12:15 and 14:15, 1.5 hours; the only sights you enter are the Painted Hall and Chapel of St. Peter and St. Paul, and only on the 14:15 tour).
I’ve organized these listings as a handy sightseeing walk through town, starting near the Cutty Sark DLR station.
▲▲Cutty Sark—The Scottish-built Cutty Sark was the last of the great China tea clippers, and was the queen of the seas when first launched in 1869. With 32,000 square feet of sail—and favorable winds—she could travel 300 miles in a day. After a five-year-long restoration, interrupted by a devastating fire, the ship reopened to the public in the spring of 2012. The new display space allows visitors to walk below the ship, which has been raised 11 feet above her dry dock, allowing you to see the elegant hull design that gave the Cutty Sark her record-breaking speed. Above deck, the ship’s rigging has been restored to original specifications, while below deck, displays explore the Cutty Sark’s 140-year history and the cargo she carried—everything from tea to wool to gunpowder—as she raced between London and ports all around the world. As a new century dawned, steamers began to outmatch sailing ships for speed, and by the mid-1920s the Cutty Sark was the world’s last operating clipper ship. After a stint as a training ship, she was retired and turned into a museum in the 1950s.
Cost and Hours: Entry is by timed ticket. It’s best to reserve in advance and bring your printed ticket or confirmation number with you, although some same-day tickets may be available at the ship (£12, kids 5-15-£6.50, free for kids under 5, family tickets available; through Nov 2012 open Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, closed Mon; beginning Dec 2012 open daily 10:00-17:00; last entry at 16:30; reserve online or by phone, reservation tel. 020/8312-6608, tel. 020/8858-2698, www.rmg.co.uk/cuttysark).
Discover Greenwich—This visitors center (which also houses the TI) is located at the corner of the Old Royal Naval College closest to the Cutty Sark. While it’s hardly a museum, it offers a decent introduction to Greenwich and some fun exhibits for kids. In the center, a model of the town lights up to tell its history. Surrounding the model are displays and artifacts from various people who have left their mark on the town, along with exhibits about the architecture and construction of Greenwich’s fine buildings. Tours of the Royal Naval College (described next) leave from the reception desk. Adjoining Discover Greenwich are the TI and a recommended pub, The Old Brewery.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 10:00-17:00, tel. 020/8269-4747, www.oldroyalnavalcollege.org.
▲Old Royal Naval College—The college was originally a hospital founded by Queen Mary II and King William III in 1692 as a charity to care for retired or injured naval officers (called pensioners). William and Mary spared no expense, hiring the great Christopher Wren to design the complex (though other architects completed it). Its days as a hospital ended in 1869, and it served as a college for training naval officers from 1873 to 1998. Now that the Royal Navy has moved out, the public is invited to view the college’s elaborate Painted Hall and Chapel of St. Peter and St. Paul, which are in symmetrical buildings that face each other overlooking a broad riverfront park.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 10:00-17:00, sometimes closed for private events, service Sun at 11:00 in chapel—all are welcome, www.ornc.org.
Tours: Guides give one-hour tours covering the hall and chapel, along with other areas not open to the general public (£5, daily at 14:00, departs from Discover Greenwich, call ahead to check availability, tel. 020/8269-4799).
Self-Guided Tour: Each building sells descriptive guides (50p), or you can buy the fun Nasty Naval College brochure, with offbeat facts about the place (£1). Volunteers are often standing by to answer questions.
Here’s an overview of what you’ll see:
Painted Hall: Originally intended as a dining hall for pensioners, this sumptuously painted room was deemed too glorious (and, in the winter, too cold) for that purpose. So almost as soon as it was completed, it became simply a place to impress visitors.
Enter the hall, climb the stairs, and gape up at one of the largest painted ceilings in Europe—112 feet long. It’s a big propaganda scene, glorifying the building’s founders, Queen Mary II and King William III (who, as a Protestant monarch, had recently trounced the Catholic French King Louis XIV in a pivotal battle). Crane your neck—or use the clever wheeled mirrors—to examine the scene. In the center are William and Mary. Under his foot, William is crushing a dark figure with a broken sword...Louis XIV. He is handing a red cap (representing liberty) to the woman on the right, who holds the reins of a white horse (symbolizing Europe). On the left, a white-robed woman hands him an olive branch, a sign of peace. The message: William has granted Europe liberty by saving it from the tyranny of Louis XIV. Below the royal couple, the Spirit of Architecture shows them the plans for this very building (commemorating the sad fact that Mary died before its completion). Ringing the central image are the four seasons (represented by Zodiac signs), the four virtues, and—at the top and bottom—a captured Spanish galleon and a British man-of-war battleship.
Up the steps at the end of the room, along the wall of the upper hall, is a portrait of the family of King George I. On the right is the artist who spent 19 years of his life painting this hall, James Thornhill (he finally finished it in 1727). He’s holding out his hand—reportedly, he didn’t feel he was paid enough for this Sistine-sized undertaking.
• Exit the hall, and cross the field to enter the...
Chapel of St. Peter and St. Paul: Not surprisingly, you’ll sense a nautical air in this fine chapel. Notice the rope motif in the floor tiles down the aisle. The painting above the altar, by American Benjamin West, depicts the shipwreck of St. Paul on the island of Malta. According to the Bible, Paul disturbed a poisonous viper but managed to throw it in a fire, miraculously without being harmed. Soon after the chapel was completed, it was gutted by a fire and had to be redecorated all over again. The plans were too ambitious, so the designers cut corners. Some of the columns and capitals are fake, and the “sculptures” lining the nave high above are actually trompe l’oeil—3-D paintings meant to look real. But some items, such as the marble frame around the main door, are finely crafted from expensive materials.
• Leave the chapel, and walk straight down to the water—enjoying the sweeping views across to the Docklands. When you hit the river, turn right for the...
Thames to Trafalgar Tavern Stroll—Wander east along the Thames on Five Foot Walk (named for the width of the path). Notice that the Old Royal Naval College is split into two parts; reportedly, Queen Mary didn’t want the view from the Queen’s House blocked. Looking up from the river, you’ll see the college’s twin-domed towers (one giving the time, the other the direction of the wind) framing the Queen’s House, and the Royal Observatory Greenwich crowning the hill beyond.
Continuing downstream, just past the college, you’ll find the recommended Trafalgar Tavern. Dickens knew the pub well, and he used it as the setting for the wedding breakfast in Our Mutual Friend. Built in 1837 in the Regency style to attract Londoners downriver, the upstairs Nelson Room is still used for weddings. Its formal moldings and elegant windows with balconies over the Thames are a step back in time and worth a peek.
A mile downstream from the pub, the O2 (a.k.a. “the Dome”) languished for nearly a decade after its controversial construction and brief life as the Millennium Dome. Intended to be a world’s fair-type site and the center of London’s year 2000 celebration, it ended up being the topic of heated debates about cost overruns and its controversial looks. The site was finally bought by a developer a few years ago and rechristened “The O2” in honor of the telecommunications company that paid for the naming rights. Currently, it hosts sporting events (and saw action during the 2012 Summer Olympics) and concerts (at the time of his death, Michael Jackson was planning a massive concert series here).
• From the Trafalgar Tavern, walk two long blocks up Park Row, and turn right (through the gate near the corner) into the park. The palatial buildings in the middle of the park are the Queen’s House and the National Maritime Museum; the Royal Observatory Greenwich is on the hilltop beyond. Together, this trio is known as the Royal Museums of Greenwich.
Queen’s House—This building, the first Palladian-style villa in Britain, was designed in 1616 by Inigo Jones for James I’s wife, Anne of Denmark. All traces of the queen are long gone, and the Great Hall and Royal Apartments now serve as an art gallery for the National Maritime Museum. Predictably, most of the art is nautical-themed, with plenty of paintings of ships and sea battles, and portraits of admirals and captains. Among these is the great J. M. W. Turner painting Battle of Trafalgar (1824), the artist’s only royal commission. The painting is often out on loan, so ask at the entry before you look for it.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 10:00-17:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing, tel. 020/8858-4422, www.rmg.co.uk.
Tours: Skip the free (and outdated) audioguide and instead ask about the daily tour (free, subject varies).
• Exiting the Queen’s House, walk toward the hill and turn right. About 300 yards farther on you’ll find the...
▲National Maritime Museum—Great for anyone interested in the sea, this museum holds everything from a giant working paddlewheel to the uniform Admiral Horatio Nelson wore when he was killed at Trafalgar (look for the bullet hole, in the left shoulder). A big glass roof tops three levels of slick, modern, kid-friendly exhibits about all things seafaring.
The Explorers exhibit covers early expeditions and an ill-fated Arctic trip, complete with a soundtrack of creaking wooden ships and crashing waves. One room displays stained-glass windows honoring members of London’s Baltic Exchange (an important shipping consortium) killed in World War I, while the somber Atlantic Worlds hall thoughtfully describes how the movements of goods, ideas, and people (a.k.a. slaves) shaped the 17th to 19th centuries. Kids like the All Hands and Bridge galleries, where they can send secret messages by Morse code and operate a miniature dockside crane. Along with displays of lighthouse technology and a whaling cannon, you’ll see model ships, nautical paintings, and various salty odds and ends. Note that some parts of the museum are closed for ongoing renovation, though there’s still plenty to see.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 10:00-17:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing, tel. 020/8312-6608, www.rmg.co.uk. Look for signs posted at the entrance advertising family-oriented events—singing, treasure hunts, and storytelling—particularly on weekends; and listen for announcements alerting visitors to free tours on various topics.
• The final sight in town—the Royal Observatory Greenwich—is at the top of the hill just behind the National Maritime Museum. To reach it, cross through the colonnade connecting the museum and the Queen’s House, then follow the crowds as they huff up the steep hill (allow 10-15 minutes).
▲▲Royal Observatory Greenwich—Located on the prime meridian (0° longitude), the observatory is famous as the point from which all time is measured. The observatory’s early work, however, had nothing to do with coordinating the world’s clocks to Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). The observatory was founded in 1675 by Charles II for the purpose of improving navigation by more accurately charting the night sky. Today, the Greenwich time signal is linked with the BBC (which broadcasts the famous “pips” worldwide at the top of the hour). A visit here gives you a taste of the sciences of astronomy, timekeeping, and seafaring—and how they all meld together—along with great views over Greenwich and the distant London skyline. The Royal Observatory grounds are made up of the observatory (with the prime meridian and three worthy exhibits), the Weller Astronomy Galleries, and the Peter Harrison Planetarium.
Observatory: £7, ticket good for re-entry for one year, £11.50 combo-ticket with planetarium saves money if you visit both, audioguide-£3.50, 1 hour; daily 10:00-17:00, later in summer—can be as late as 19:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing.
Weller Astronomy Galleries: Free, daily 10:00-17:00.
Peter Harrison Planetarium: £6.50, £11.50 combo-ticket with observatory; 30-minute shows generally run every hour (usually Mon-Fri 13:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-16:00, fewer shows in winter, schedule can change from day to day). Confirm times by calling ahead, checking online, or picking up a flier (which you’ll see around the observatory). As these shows can sell out, consider calling ahead to order tickets.
Information: Tel. 020/8858-4422, www.rmg.co.uk.
Self-Guided Tour: As you hike up the hill to the observatory grounds, look along the roof for the orange Time Ball—also visible from the Thames—which drops daily at 13:00. Nearby, under the analog clock just outside the courtyard, see how your foot measures up to the foot where the public standards of length are cast in bronze. If your only interest in the Royal Observatory is the famous line, detour here through the iron gate to your right for a free, more simplistic (and significantly less crowded) display of the prime meridian.
Entering the complex, you’re directed either to the observatory entrance or the Weller Astronomy Galleries. Since the observatory is more interesting, do that first.
• After purchasing your ticket, enter the courtyard.
Running through the middle of this space is The Line—the prime meridian. Visitors wait patiently to have their photographs taken as they straddle the line in front of the monument, with one foot in each hemisphere. While watching all this fuss over a little line, consider that—unlike the equator—the placement of the prime meridian is totally arbitrary. It could well have been at my house, in Timbuktu, or just a few feet over—as, for a time, it was (the trough along the building’s roofline shows where one astronomer had placed it). While waiting for your turn, set your wristwatch to the digital clock showing GMT to a tenth of a second.
Three different attractions are scattered around this courtyard. First, hiding in a corner is a camera obscura. This thrillingly low-tech device projects a live image from Greenwich onto a flat disc in a darkened room simply by manipulating light, without electricity or machinery. Bizarre as this seems today, imagine how astonishing it was in the days before television.
The smaller building is the Flamsteed House, named for John Flamsteed, the first king-appointed Astronomer Royal (in 1675). It contains the apartments that he lived in and the Wren-designed Octagon Room, where he carried out some of his work. Downstairs is a fascinating exhibit on the “Longitude Problem” and how it was solved (see sidebar). Also on display are all four of John Harrison’s sea clocks. Compared to his other contraptions, the fourth and final attempt looks like an oversized pocket watch. But, in terms of its impact, this little timepiece is right up there with the printing press, the cotton gin, the telegraph, and the money belt on the scale of human achievement.
Finally, the Telescopes Exhibition, in the larger house, has a wide assortment of historical telescopes, including a couple of room-sized ones.
• Now head out back.
Walk past the giant rusted-copper cone top of the planetarium. The building beyond houses the Weller Astronomy Galleries, where interactive, kid-pleasing displays allow you to guide a space mission and touch a 4.5-billion-year-old meteorite. You can also buy tickets for and enter the state-of-the-art, 120-seat Peter Harrison Planetarium from here.
Before you leave the observatory grounds, enjoy the view from the overlook—the symmetrical royal buildings, the Thames, the Docklands and its busy cranes (including the prominent Canary Wharf Tower, with its pyramid cap), the huge O2 dome, and the square-mile City of London, with its skyscrapers and the dome of St. Paul’s Cathedral. At night (17:00-24:00), look for the green laser beam the observatory projects into the sky (best viewed in winter), which extends along the prime meridian for 15 miles.
The colorful Greenwich Market hosts food stalls, great for assembling a picnic (Tue-Sun 10:00-17:30, closed Mon, down the street from Cutty Sark DLR station). Another handy place to pick up ready-made food is Marks & Spencer Simply Food, between the DLR station and the Cutty Sark dry dock (Mon-Sat 8:30-21:00, Sun 10:00-21:00, 55 Greenwich Church Street, tel. 020/8853-1840).
The Trafalgar Tavern, with a casual pub and elegant ground-floor dining room, is a historical place for an overpriced meal (£12 pub grub, £7-9 starters and £12-17 main courses in restaurant, food served Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, Sun 12:00-18:00, Park Row, tel. 020/8858-2909).
The Old Brewery, in the Discover Greenwich center on the Old Royal Naval College grounds, is an upscale gastropub decorated with all things beer. A brewery on this site once provided the daily ration of four pints of beer for pensioners at the hospital. Today it’s a microbrewery offering 50 different beers, while a beer sommelier suggests the right pairings with food on the menu (£6-15 pub grub, £12 lunches, part of the pub becomes a fancier restaurant in the evenings with £6-9 starters and £11-17 main courses; daily 10:00-23:00, lunch 12:00-17:00, dinner from 18:00, tel. 020/3327-1280).
Windsor, a compact and easy walking town of about 30,000 people, originally grew up around the royal residence. In 1070, William the Conqueror continued his habit of kicking Saxons out of their various settlements, taking over what the locals called “Windlesora” (meaning “riverbank with a hoisting winch”)—which eventually became “Windsor.” William built the first fortified castle on a chalk hill above the Thames; later kings added on to his early designs, rebuilding and expanding the castle and surrounding gardens.
By setting up their primary residence here, modern monarchs increased Windsor’s popularity and prosperity—most notably, Queen Victoria, whose stern statue glares at you as you approach the castle (for more on Victoria, see sidebar on here). After her death, Victoria rejoined her beloved husband, Albert, in the Royal Mausoleum at Frogmore House, a mile south of the castle in a private section of the Home Park (house and mausoleum rarely open). The current Queen considers Windsor her primary residence, and the one where she feels most at home. She generally hangs her crown here on weekends, using it as an escape from her workaday grind at Buckingham Palace in the city. You can tell if Her Majesty is in residence by checking to see which flag is flying above the round tower: If it’s the royal standard (a red, yellow, and blue flag) instead of the Union Jack, the Queen is at home.
While 99 percent of visitors just come to tour the castle and go, some enjoy spending the night. Daytime crowds trample Windsor’s charm, which is most evident when the tourists are gone. Consider overnighting here—parking and access to Heathrow Airport are easy, and an evening at the horse races (on Mondays) is hoof-pounding, heart-thumping fun.
By Train: Windsor has two train stations—Windsor & Eton Central (5-minute walk to palace; TI in adjacent shopping center) and Windsor & Eton Riverside (5-minute walk to palace and TI). First Great Western trains run between London’s Paddington Station and Windsor & Eton Central (2-3/hour, 35 minutes, easy change at Slough; £9 one-way standard class, £9.50-13 same-day return, www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk). South West Trains run between London’s Waterloo Station and Windsor & Eton Riverside (2/hour, 1 hour; £9 one-way standard class, £11-15.50 same-day return, info tel. 0845-748-4950, www.nationalrail.co.uk). If deciding between these, notice that while Waterloo is more central within London and has a direct connection, it takes nearly twice as long as the alternative from Paddington.
If you’re day-tripping into London from Windsor, ask at the train station about combining a same-day return train ticket with a One-Day Travelcard—you’ll end up with one ticket that covers rail transportation to and from London and doubles as an all-day Tube and bus pass in town (£13-22, lower price for travel after 9:30, rail ticket may also qualify you for half-price London sightseeing discounts—ask or look for brochure at station, or go to www.daysoutguide.co.uk).
By Bus: Green Line buses #701 and #702 run from London’s Victoria Colonnades (between the Victoria train and coach stations) to the Parish Church stop on Windsor’s High Street, before continuing on to Legoland (£5-9 one-way, £9.50-14 round-trip, prices vary depending on time of day, 1-2/hour, 1.25 hours to Windsor, tel. 01753/524-144, www.rainbowfares.com).
By Car: Windsor is about 20 miles from London and just off Heathrow Airport’s landing path. The town (and then the castle and Legoland) is well-signposted from the M-4 motorway. It’s a convenient first stop if you’re arriving at and renting a car from Heathrow, and saving London until the end of your trip.
From Heathrow Airport: Buses #71 and #77 run between Terminal 5 and Windsor, dropping you in the center of town on Peascod Street (about £7, 1-2/hour, 45 minutes, tel. 01753/524-144). London black cabs can (and do) charge whatever they like from Heathrow to Windsor; avoid them by calling a local cab company, such as Windsor Radio Cars (£25, tel. 01753/677-677, www.windsorcars.com).
Windsor’s pleasant pedestrian shopping zone litters the approach to its famous palace with fun temptations. You’ll find most shops and restaurants around the castle on High and Thames Streets, and down the pedestrian Peascod Street (PESS-cot), which runs perpendicular to High Street.
The TI is immediately adjacent to Windsor & Eton Central Station, in the Windsor Royal Shopping Centre’s Old Booking Hall (May-Sept Mon-Fri 9:30-17:30, Sat 9:30-17:00, Sun 10:00-16:00; Oct-April Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-16:00; tel. 01753/743-900, www.windsor.gov.uk). The TI sells discount tickets to Legoland (see “More Sights in Windsor,” later).
By Train: The train to Windsor & Eton Central Station from Paddington (via Slough) spits you out into the Windsor Royal shopping pavilion (which houses the TI), only a few minutes’ walk from the castle. If you arrive instead at Windsor & Eton Riverside Station (from Waterloo Station), you’ll see the castle as you exit—just follow the wall to the castle entrance.
By Car: Follow signs from the M-4 motorway for pay-and-display parking in the center. River Street Car Park is closest to the castle, but pricey and often full. The cheaper, bigger Alexandra Car Park (near the riverside Alexandra Gardens) is farther west. To walk to the town center from the Alexandra Car Park, head east through the tour-bus parking lot toward the castle. At the souvenir shop, walk up the stairs (or take the elevator) and cross the overpass to the Windsor & Eton Central Station. Just beyond the station, you’ll find the TI in the Windsor Royal Shopping Centre. Yet another, even cheaper option is the King Edward VII Avenue car-park-and-ride, east of the castle on B-470, which includes a shuttle bus into town.
Festivals: In addition to the Royal Ascot horse races (described later, under “Beyond Windsor”), Windsor hosts a tattoo for four days in May, when troops march in military regalia at the public Home Park, just northeast of the castle (www.windsortattoo.com).
Internet Access: Get online at the library, located on Bachelors’ Acre, between Peascod and Victoria Streets (£1.50/30 minutes, Mon and Thu 9:30-17:00, Tue 9:30-20:00, Wed 14:00-17:00, Fri 9:30-19:00, Sat 9:30-15:00, closed Sun, tel. 01753/743-940, www.rbwm.gov.uk).
Supermarkets: Pick up picnic supplies at Marks & Spencer (Mon-Sat 9:00-18:00, Sun 11:00-17:00, 130 Peascod Street, tel. 01753/852-266) or at Waitrose (Mon-Sat 8:00-20:00, Fri until 21:00, Sun 11:00-17:00, King Edward Court Shopping Centre, just south of the Windsor & Eton Central Station, tel. 01753/860-565). Just outside the castle, you’ll find long benches near the statue of Queen Victoria—great for people-watching while you munch.
Bike Rental: Extreme Motion, near the river in Alexandra Gardens, rents 21-speed mountain bikes as well as helmets (£12/4 hours, £17/day, helmets-£1-1.50, £100 credit-card deposit required, bring passport as ID, summer daily 10:00-22:00, closed off-season, tel. 01753/830-220).
Windsor Castle, the official home of England’s royal family for 900 years, claims to be the largest and oldest occupied castle in the world. Thankfully, touring it is simple. You’ll see sprawling grounds, lavish staterooms, a crowd-pleasing dollhouse, a gallery of Michelangelo and da Vinci drawings, and an exquisite Perpendicular Gothic chapel.
Cost: If everything is open, a ticket costs £17 (family-£44.25); on (relatively rare) days that the Queen is hosting special events in her state rooms, the price is reduced to £9.30 (family-£25.25) to make up for the closure. Either ticket is valid for one year of re-entry if you get it stamped at the exit.
Crowd Control: Ticket lines can be long; avoid the wait by purchasing tickets in advance online at www.royalcollection.org.uk or in person at the Buckingham Palace ticket office in London. Tickets in hand, you’ll go in through a fast entry door. There’s nowhere in Windsor to buy advance tickets, so once you’re here, the ticketless have to stand in line.
Hours: Grounds and most interiors open daily March-Oct 9:45-17:15, Nov-Feb 9:45-16:15, except St. George’s Chapel, which is closed Sun to tourists (but open to worshippers). Last entry to grounds and St. George’s Chapel 70 minutes before closing. Last entry to State Apartments and Queen Mary’s Dolls’ House 45 minutes before closing.
Possible Closures: If the queen is entertaining, the State Apartments may be closed—a big disappointment if you’re not expecting it, but at least the ticket is cheaper (explained above). The entire palace occasionally closes for special events (such as the Garter Service in mid-June). It’s smart to call ahead or check the website to make sure everything is open when you want to go. While you’re at it, confirm the Changing of the Guard schedule.
Tours: As you enter, you’ll pick up the dry, reverent but informative audioguide, which covers both the grounds and interiors (though it can be hard to follow). For a good overview—and an opportunity to ask questions—consider the free 30-minute guided walks around the grounds (2/hour, schedule posted next to audioguide desk).
Information: The official £5 guidebook is full of gorgeous images and makes a fine souvenir, but the information within is already covered by the audioguide and tour (tel. 020/7766-7304, www.royalcollection.org.uk).
Changing of the Guard: The Changing of the Guard takes place Monday through Saturday at 11:00 (April-July) and on alternating days the rest of the year (check website to confirm schedule; get there by 10:45). There is no Changing of the Guard on Sundays or in very wet weather. The fresh guards, led by a marching band, leave their barracks on Sheet Street and march up High Street, hanging a right at Victoria, then a left into the castle’s Lower Ward, arriving at about 11:00. After about a half-hour, the tired guards march back the way they came. To watch the actual ceremony inside the castle, you’ll need to have already bought your ticket, entered the grounds, and staked out a spot. Alternatively, you could wait for them to march by on High Street or on the lower half of Castle Hill.
Evensong: An evensong takes place in the chapel nightly at 17:15 (free for worshippers, line up at exit gate to be admitted).
Best View: While you can get great views of the castle from any direction, the classic views are from the long, wooded walkway called the Long Walk, which stretches south of the palace and is open to the public.
Eating: There are a few shops scattered around the premises, but none sell real food (unless you count gifty boxes of chocolates)—though bottles of water are available. If you’ll want a snack during your long castle visit, plan ahead and pack one in from outside.
Self-Guided Tour: Although you’ll be equipped with an audioguide and can join the free tour, you’ll see much of the castle on your own, and information is sparse. This commentary will give you the lay of the land.
The Grounds: After buying your ticket and going through the tight security checkpoint, head into the castle grounds to pick up your audioguide. Turn right and head up the hill, enjoying the first of many fine castle views you’ll see today. The tower-topped, conical hill on your left represents the historical core of the castle. William the Conqueror built this motte (artificial mound) and bailey (fortified stockade around it) in 1080—his first castle in England. Among the later monarchs who spiffed up Windsor were Edward III (flush with French war booty, he made it a palace fit for a 14th-century king), Charles II (determined to restore the monarchy properly in the 1660s), and George IV (Britain’s “Bling King,” who financed many such vanity projects in the 1820s). On your right, the circular bandstand platform has a seal of the Order of the Garter, which has important ties to Windsor (see sidebar).
Passing through the small gate, you approach the stately St. George’s Gate. Peek through here to the Upper Ward’s Quadrangle, surrounded by the State Apartments (across the field) and the Queen’s private apartments (to the right).
Turn left and follow the wall. On your right-hand side, you enjoy great views of the Round Tower atop that original motte; running around the base of this artificial hill is the delightful, peaceful garden of the castle governor. The unusual design of this castle has not one “bailey” (castle yard), but three, which today make up Windsor’s Upper Ward (where the Queen lives, which we just saw), Middle Ward (the ecclesiastical heart of the complex, with St. George’s Chapel, which you’ll soon pass on the left), and Lower Ward (residences for castle workers).
Continue all the way around this mini-moat to the Norman Gate, which once held a prison. Walking under the gate, look up to see the bottom of the portcullis that could be dropped to seal off the inner courtyard. Three big holes are strategically situated to dump boiling goo or worse on whoever was being kept outside the gate. Past the gate are even finer views of the Quadrangle we just saw from the other side.
Do a 180 and head back toward the Norman Gate, but before you reach it, go down the staircase on the right. You’ll emerge onto a fine terrace overlooking the flat lands all around. It’s easy to understand why this was a strategic place to build a castle. That’s Eton College across the Thames. Imagine how handy it’s been for royals to be able to ship off their teenagers to an elite prep school so close that they could easily keep an eye on them...literally. The power-plant cooling towers in the distance mark the workaday burg of Slough (rhymes with “plow,” immortalized as the setting for Britain’s original version of The Office).
Turn right and wander along the terrace. You’ll likely see two lines: one long and one short. The long line leads to Queen Mary’s Dolls’ House, then to the State Apartments. The short line skips the dollhouse and lets you proceed directly to the apartments. While the State Apartments are certainly worth seeing, the Dolls’ House may not be worth a long wait; read the following descriptions and decide. You can see the Drawings Gallery and the China Museum either way.
Queen Mary’s Dolls’ House: This palace in miniature (1:12 scale, from 1924) is “the most famous dollhouse in the world.” It was a gift for Queen Mary (the wife of King George V, and the current Queen’s grandmother), who greatly enjoyed miniatures, when she was already a fully grown adult. It’s basically one big, dimly lit room with the large dollhouse in the middle, executed with an astonishing level of detail. Each fork, knife, and spoon on the expertly set banquet table is perfect and made of real gold. But you’re kept a few feet away by a glass wall, and are constantly jostled by fellow sightseers in this crowded space, making it difficult to fully appreciate. Unless you’re a dollhouse devotee, it’s probably not worth waiting a half hour for a five-minute peek at this, but if the line is short it’s worth a glance.
Drawings Gallery and China Museum: Positioned at the exit of the Dolls’ House, this collects a changing array of pieces from the Queen’s collection—usually including some big names, such as Michelangelo and Leonardo. The China Museum features items from the Queen’s many exquisite settings for royal shindigs.
State Apartments: Dripping with chandeliers, finely furnished, and strewn with history and the art of a long line of kings and queens, they’re the best I’ve seen in Britain. This is where the Queen wows visiting dignitaries. The apartments are even more remarkable considering that many of these grand halls were badly damaged in a fire on November 20, 1992. They’ve been immaculately restored since. Take advantage of the talkative docents in each room, who are happy to answer your questions.
You’ll climb the Grand Staircase up to the Grand Vestibule, decorated with exotic items seized by British troops during their missions to colonize various corners of the world. The Waterloo Chamber memorializes Wellington and others (from military officers to heads of state to Pope Pius VII) who worked together to defeat Napoleon. You’ll pass through various bedchambers, dressing rooms, and drawing rooms of the king and queen (who traditionally maintained separate quarters). Many rooms are decorated with fine canvases by some of Europe’s top artists, including Rubens, Van Dyck, and Holbein. Finally you emerge into St. George’s Hall, decorated with emblems representing the knights of the prestigious Order of the Garter (see sidebar, earlier). This is the site of some of the most elaborate royal banquets—imagine one long table stretching from one end of the hall to the other, seating 160 VIPs. From here, you’ll proceed into the rooms that were the most damaged by the 1992 fire, including the “Semi-State Apartments.” The Garter Throne Room is where new members of the Order of the Garter are invested (ceremonially granted their titles).
Now head down to the opposite end of the terrace, and hook left back into the Middle Ward. From here, you’re just above the chapel, with its buttresses; you’ll find the entrance about two-thirds of the way down.
St. George’s Chapel: Housing numerous royal tombs, this chapel is an exquisite example of Perpendicular Gothic (dating from about 1500), with classic fan-vaulting spreading out from each pillar and 460 roof bosses. Most of these colorful emblems are associated with the Knights of the Garter, which considers St. George’s their “mother church.” Under the upper stained-glass windows, notice the continuous frieze of 250 angels, lovingly carved with great detail, ringing the church.
Stepping into the choir area, you’re immediately aware that you are in the inner sanctum of the Order of the Garter. The banners lining the nave represent the knights, as do the fancy helmets and half-drawn swords at the top of each wood-carved seat. These symbols honor only living knights; on the seats are some 800 golden panels memorializing departed knights. As you walk up the aisle, notice the marker in the floor: You’re walking over the burial site of King Henry VIII and his favorite wife (perhaps because she was the only one who died before he could behead her), Jane Seymour. The body of King Charles I, who was beheaded by Oliver Cromwell’s forces at the Banqueting House (see here), was also discovered here...with its head sewn back on.
Leaving the choir through the side door, turn left to find the simple chapel containing the tombs of the current Queen’s parents, King George VI and “Queen Mother” Elizabeth, and younger sister, Princess Margaret. Circulate around the back of the church to see more royal tombs. On your way out, you can pause at the door of the sumptuous 13th-century Albert Memorial Chapel, redecorated after the death of Prince Albert in 1861 and dedicated to his memory.
Lower Ward: You’ll exit the chapel into the castle’s Lower Ward. This area is a living town where some 160 people who work for the Queen reside; they include clergy, military, and castle administrators. Just below the chapel, you may be able to enter a tranquil little horseshoe-shaped courtyard ringed with residential doorways—all of them with a spectacular view of the chapels’ grand entrance.
Back out in the yard, look for the guard posted at his pillbox. Like those at Buckingham Palace, he’s been trained to be a ruthless killing machine...just so he can wind up as somebody’s photo op. Click!
Legoland Windsor—Paradise for Legomaniacs under 12, this huge, kid-pleasing park has dozens of tame but fun rides (often with very long lines) scattered throughout its 150 acres. The impressive Miniland has 40 million Lego pieces glued together to create 800 tiny buildings and a minitour of Europe; the Creation Centre boasts an 80 percent scale-model Boeing 747 cockpit, made of two million bricks. Several of the more exciting rides involve getting wet, so dress accordingly or buy a cheap disposable poncho in the gift shop. While you may be tempted to hop on the Hill Train at the entrance, it’s faster and more convenient to walk down into the park. Food is available in the park, but you can save money by bringing a picnic.
Cost: Adults-£43.20, children-£34.20, about 10 percent cheaper if you book online or buy tickets at Windsor TI, free for ages 3 and under; optional Q-Bot ride-reservation gadget allows you to bypass lines (£10-40 depending on when you go and how much time you want to save); coin lockers-£1.
Hours: Convoluted schedule, but generally mid-March-late July and Sept-Oct Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-18:00, often closed Tue-Wed; late July-Aug daily 10:00-19:00; closed Nov-mid-March. Call or check website for exact schedule, tel. 0871-222-2001, www.legoland.co.uk.
Getting There: A £4.50 round-trip shuttle bus runs from opposite Windsor’s Theatre Royal on Thames Street, and from the Parish Church stop on High Street (2/hour). If day-tripping from London, ask about rail/shuttle/park admission deals from Paddington or Waterloo train stations. For drivers, the park is on the B-3022 Windsor/Ascot road, two miles southwest of Windsor and 25 miles west of London. Legoland is clearly signposted from the M-3, M-4, and M-25 motorways. Parking is easy and free.
Eton College—Across the bridge from Windsor Castle you’ll find many post-castle tourists filing toward the most famous “public” (the equivalent of our “private”) high school in Britain. Eton was founded in 1440 by King Henry VI; today it educates about 1,300 boys (ages 13-18), who live on campus. Eton has molded the characters of 19 prime ministers as well as members of the royal family, most recently princes William and Harry. The college is sparse on sights, but the public is allowed into the schoolyard, chapel, cloisters, and the Museum of Eton Life.
Cost and Hours: £7, access only by one-hour guided tour at 14:00 and 15:15, likely also at 16:15 on Sat-Sun; tours available late March-Sept, usually Wed and Fri-Sun but daily during spring and summer holiday; closed Oct-late March and about once a month for special events, so call ahead; no photos in chapel, no food or drink allowed; tel. 01753/671-177, www.etoncollege.com.
Eton High Street—Even if you’re not touring the college, it’s worth the few minutes it takes to cross the pedestrian bridge and wander straight up Eton’s High Street. A bit more cutesy and authentic-feeling than Windsor (which is given over to shopping malls and chain stores), Eton has a charm that’s fun to sample.
Windsor and Royal Borough Museum—Tucked into a small space beneath the Guildhall (where Prince Charles remarried), this little museum does its best to give some insight into the history of Windsor and the surrounding area. They also have lots of special activities for kids. Ask at the desk if tours are running to the Guildhall itself (only possible with a guide); if not, it’s probably not worth the admission.
Cost and Hours: £1, includes audioguide, Tue-Sat 10:00-16:00, Sun 12:00-16:00, closed Mon, located in the Guildhall on High Street, tel. 01628/685-686, www.rbwm.gov.uk.
Boat Trips—Cruise up and down the Thames River for classic views of the castle, the village of Eton, Eton College, and the Royal Windsor Racecourse. Choose from a 40-minute or two-hour tour, then relax onboard and nibble a picnic. Boats leave from the riverside promenade adjacent to Barry Avenue.
Cost and Hours: 40-minute tour—£5.50, family pass from £13.75, mid-Feb-Oct 1-2/hour daily 10:00-17:00, Nov Sat-Sun hourly 10:00-16:00; 2-hour tour—£8.60, family pass from £21.50, April-Oct only, 1-2/day; closed Dec-mid-Feb; tel. 01753/851-900, www.boat-trips.co.uk.
Horse Racing—The horses race near Windsor every Monday at the Royal Windsor Racecourse (£10-23 entry, online discounts, those under 18 free with an adult, April-July and Oct, no races in Sept, sporadic in Aug, off the A-308 between Windsor and Maidenhead, tel. 01753/498-400, www.windsor-racecourse.co.uk). The romantic way to get there from Windsor is by a 10-minute shuttle boat (£6 round-trip, www.frenchbrothers.co.uk). The famous Ascot Racecourse (described below) is also nearby.
Ascot Racecourse—Located seven miles southwest of Windsor and just north of the town of Ascot, this royally owned track is one of the most famous horse-racing venues in the world. The horses first ran here in 1711, and the course is best known for June’s five-day Royal Ascot race meeting, attended by the Queen and 299,999 of her loyal subjects. For many, the outlandish hats worn on Ladies Day (Thursday) are more interesting than the horses. Royal Ascot is usually the third week in June. The pricey tickets go on sale the preceding November; while the Friday and Saturday races tend to sell out far ahead, tickets for the other days are often available close to the date (see website for details). In addition to Royal Ascot, the racecourse runs the ponies year-round—funny hats strictly optional.
Cost: Regular tickets generally £18-28—some may be available at a discount from the TI, Royal Ascot £17-71, online discounts, kids 17 and under free; parking £5-7, more for special races; dress code enforced in some areas and on certain days, tel. 0870-727-1234, www.ascot.co.uk.
(area code: 01753)
Most visitors stay in London and do Windsor as a day trip. But here are a few suggestions for those staying the night.
$$$ Mercure Windsor Castle Hotel, with 108 business-class rooms and elegant public spaces, is as central as can be, just down the street from Her Majesty’s weekend retreat (official rates: Db-£129-169, breakfast-£17; but you’ll likely pay around Db-£149 on weekdays and £139 on weekends including breakfast; £40 extra for fancy four-poster beds, nonrefundable online deals, air-con, free Wi-Fi, free parking, 18 High Street, tel. 01753/851-577, www.mercure.com, h6618@accor.com).
$$ Langton House B&B is a stately Victorian home with five spacious, well-appointed rooms lovingly maintained by Paul and Sonja Fogg (S-£65, Sb-£70, D/Db-£99, huge four-poster Db-£105, Tb-£119, Qb-£145, 5 percent extra if paying by credit card, prices can be soft—especially off-season, family-friendly, guest kitchen, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, 46 Alma Road, tel. 01753/858-299, www.langtonhouse.co.uk, paul@langtonhouse.co.uk).
$$ Park Farm B&B, bright and cheery, is convenient for drivers visiting Legoland (Sb-£65, Db-£89, Tb-£105, Qb-£120, ask about family room with bunk beds, cash only—credit card solely for reservations, free Wi-Fi, access to shared fridge and microwave, free off-street parking, 1 mile from Legoland on St. Leonards Road near Imperial Road, 5-minute bus ride or 1-mile walk to castle, £4 taxi ride from station, tel. 01753/866-823, www.parkfarm.com, stay@parkfarm.com, Caroline and Drew Youds).
$$ Dee and Steve’s B&B is a friendly four-room place above a window shop on a quiet residential street about a 10-minute walk from the castle and station. The rooms are cozy, Dee and Steve are pleasant hosts, and breakfast is served in the contemporary kitchen/lounge (S-£40, Sb-£60, Db-£75, free Wi-Fi, 169 Oxford Road, tel. 01753/854-489, www.deeandsteve.com, dee@deeandsteve.com).
$ Crown and Cushion, a good budget option on Eton’s High Street just across the pedestrian bridge from Windsor’s waterfront (a short uphill walk to the castle), has nine nicely furnished rooms with uneven old floors above a pub. While the rooms are nothing special, the rates are reasonable, and you’re right in the heart of charming Eton (S-£45, D-£49, Db-£59, twin Db-£69, Tb-£79, free Wi-Fi, free parking, 84 High Street in Eton, tel. 01753/861-531, rtw2243@msn.com).
Several places flank Windsor Bridge, offering romantic dining after dark. The riverside promenade, with cheap take-away stands scattered about, is a delightful place for a picnic lunch or dinner with the swans. If you don’t see anything that appeals, continue up Eton’s High Street, which is also lined with characteristic eateries.
Strolling the streets and lanes around the palace entrance—especially in the shopping zone near Windsor & Eton Station—you’ll find countless trendy and inviting eateries.
Cornucopia Bistro, with a cozy, woody atmosphere, serves tasty international dishes (£12 two-course lunches, £11-15 main courses at dinner, daily 12:00-14:30 & 18:00-21:30, Fri-Sat until 22:00, closed Sun night, 6 High Street, tel. 01753/833-009).
The Crooked House is a touristy 17th-century timber-framed teahouse, serving fresh, hearty £8-10 lunches and £8.50 cream teas in a tipsy interior or outdoors on its cobbled lane (daily 10:00-18:00, 51 High Street).
Wagamama offers modern Asian food, mostly in the form of noodle soups, in an informal and communal setting (£7-11 dishes, Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:00, on the left as you face the Windsor Royal Shopping Centre).
Residents enjoy the vast selection of unpretentious little eateries (including a fire station turned pub-and-cultural center) just past the end of pedestrian Peascod Street. You’ll also find a handful of ethnic eateries. Saffron Restaurant is the local choice for South Indian cuisine, with a modern interior and attentive waiters who struggle with English but are fluent at bringing out tasty dishes. Their vegetarian thali is a treat (£7-11 dishes, open daily for lunch from noon, dinner 17:30-23:00, 99 St. Leonards Road, tel. 01753/855-467).
Cambridge, 60 miles north of London, is world famous for its prestigious university. Wordsworth, Isaac Newton, Tennyson, Darwin, and Prince Charles are a few of its illustrious alumni. The university dominates—and owns—most of Cambridge, a historic town of 100,000 people. Cambridge is the epitome of a university town, with busy bikers, stately residence halls, plenty of bookshops, and proud locals who can point out where DNA was originally modeled, the atom first split, and electrons discovered.
In medieval Europe, higher education was the domain of the Church and was limited to ecclesiastical schools. Scholars lived in “halls” on campus. This academic community of residential halls, chapels, and lecture halls connected by peaceful garden courtyards survives today in the colleges that make up the universities of Cambridge and Oxford. By 1350 (Oxford is roughly 100 years older), Cambridge had eight colleges, each with a monastic-type courtyard, chapel, library, and lodgings. Today, Cambridge has 31 colleges, each with its own facilities. In the town center, these grand old halls date back centuries, with ornately decorated facades that try to one-up each other. While students’ lives revolve around their independent colleges, the university organizes lectures, presents degrees, and promotes research.
The university schedule has three terms: Lent term from mid-January to mid-March, Easter term from mid-April to mid-June, and Michaelmas term from early October to early December. During exam time (roughly the month of May), the colleges are closed to visitors, which can impede access to all the picturesque little corners of the town. But the main sights—King’s College Chapel and Trinity Library—stay open, and Cambridge is never sleepy.
Cambridge is worth most of a day. Start by taking the TI’s walking tour, which includes a visit to the town’s only must-see sight, the King’s College Chapel (first tour at 11:00, later on Sun, call ahead to confirm and reserve—see “Tours in Cambridge,” later). Spend the afternoon touring the Fitzwilliam Museum (closed Mon), or simply enjoying the ambience of this stately old college town.
By Train: It’s an easy trip from London and less than an hour away. Catch the train from London’s King’s Cross Station (3/hour, fast trains leave at :15 and :45 past the hour and run in each direction, 45 minutes, £21 one-way standard class, £22 same-day return after 9:30, ask for “day return” and not the more expensive “return” ticket, operated by First Capital Connect, tel. 0845-748-4950, www.firstcapitalconnect.co.uk or www.nationalrail.co.uk). Trains also run from London’s Liverpool Street Station—though more frequent, they take longer (4/hour, 1.25 hours).
By Bus: National Express coaches run from London’s Victoria Coach Station to the Parkside stop in Cambridge (hourly, 2 hours, £11.50, tel. 08717-818-181, www.nationalexpress.co.uk).
Cambridge is congested but small. Everything is within a pleasant walk. There are two main streets, separated from the Cam River by the most interesting colleges. The town center, brimming with tearooms, has a TI and a colorful open-air market square. The train station is about a mile to the southeast.
Cambridge’s TI is well run and well signposted, just off Market Square in the town center. They book rooms for £5, offer walking tours (see “Tours in Cambridge,” later), and sell bus tickets and a £1 map/guide (Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, Easter-Sept also Sun 11:00-15:00—otherwise closed Sun, phones answered from 9:00, Peas Hill, tel. 0871-226-8006, room-booking tel. 01223/457-581, www.visitcambridge.org).
By Train: Cambridge’s train station doesn’t have baggage storage, but you can pay to leave your bags at the nearby bike-rental shop (see “Helpful Hints,” below). The station does not have a TI, but it does offer free maps and other brochures on an interior wall just before the turnstiles.
To get from the station to downtown Cambridge, you can walk for about 25 minutes (exit straight ahead on Station Road, bear right at the war memorial onto Hills Road, and follow it into town); take public bus #1, #3, or #7 (note that buses are referred to as “Citi 1,” “Citi 3,” and so on in print and online, but only the number is marked on the bus; £1.40, pay driver, runs every 5-10 minutes, get off at Emmanuel Street stop—look for Grand Arcade shopping mall on the left); pay about £5 for a taxi; or ride a City Sightseeing bus tour (described later).
By Car: Drivers can follow signs from the M-11 motorway to any of the handy and central short-stay parking lots. Or you can leave the car at one of five park-and-ride lots outside the city, then take the shuttle into town (free parking, shuttle costs £2.30 round-trip if you buy ticket from machine, or £2.60 from driver).
Festival: The Cambridge Folk Festival gets things humming and strumming in late July (tickets go on sale in May and often sell out quickly; www.cambridgefolkfestival.co.uk).
Bike Rental: Station Cycles, located about a block to your right as you exit the station, rents bikes (£7/4 hours, £10/day, helmets-£1, £60 deposit, cash or credit card) and stores luggage (£3-4/bag depending on size; Mon-Fri 8:00-18:00, Wed until 19:00, Sat 9:00-18:00, Sun 10:00-17:00, tel. 01223/307-125, www.stationcycles.co.uk). A second location is near the center of town (inside the Grand Arcade shopping mall, Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00, Wed until 20:00, Sat 9:00-18:00, Sun 10:00-18:00, tel. 01223/307-655).
▲▲Walking Tour of the Colleges—A walking tour is the best way to understand Cambridge’s mix of “town and gown.” The walks can be more educational (read: dry) than entertaining. But they do provide a good rundown of the historic and scenic highlights of the university, some fun local gossip, and plenty of university trivia. For example, why are entering students called “undergraduates”? Because long ago, new students at Cambridge were assigned to a mentor who already had a degree...so they were “under” the supervision of a “graduate.”
The TI offers daily walking tours that include the King’s College Chapel, as well as another college—usually Queen’s College (£16.00, 2 hours, includes admission fees; July-Aug daily at 11:00, 12:00, 13:00, and 14:00, no 11:00 tour on Sun; Sept-June Mon-Sat at 11:00, 13:00, and another time—likely at 12:00, Sun only at 13:00 and possibly at 12:00; tel. 01223/457-574, www.visitcambridge.org). It’s smart to call ahead to reserve a spot (they’ll take your credit-card number), or you can drop by in person (try to arrive 30 minutes before the tour). Notice that the 12:00 tour overlaps with the limited opening times of the Wren Library—so you’ll miss out on the library if you take the noon tour.
Private guides are available through the TI (basic 1-hour tour-£4.25/person, £60 minimum; 1.5-hour tour-£4.75/person, £67.50 minimum; 2-hour tour-£5.25/person, £75 minimum; does not include individual college entrance fees, tel. 01223/457-574, tours@cambridge.gov.uk).
Walking and Punting Ghost Tour—If you’re in Cambridge on the weekend, consider a £6 ghost walk to where spooky sightings have been reported, Friday evenings at 18:00, or a creepy £17.50 trip on the River Cam followed by a walk, most Saturdays at dusk (20:00 in summer; book ahead for either tour, organized by the TI, tel. 01223/457-574).
Bus Tours—City Sightseeing hop-on, hop-off bus tours are informative and cover the outskirts, including the American WWII Cemetery. But keep in mind that buses can’t go where walking tours can—right into the center (£13, 80 minutes for full 21-stop circuit, buy ticket with credit card at the bus-stop kiosk—or pay cash to driver when you board, departs every 20 minutes in summer, every 40 minutes in winter, first bus leaves train station at 10:06, last bus at 17:46, recorded commentary, tel. 01223/423-578, www.city-sightseeing.com). If arriving by train, you can buy your ticket from the kiosk directly in front of the station, then ride the bus into town.
Cambridge has many impressive old college buildings to explore, with fancy facades and tranquil grassy courtyards. I’ve featured the two most interesting (King’s and Trinity), but feel free to wander beyond these. You might notice several bricked-up windows on the old buildings around town. This practice dates from a time when taxes were calculated per window...so filling them in saved money.
▲King’s Parade and Nearby—The lively street in front of King’s College, called King’s Parade, seems to be where everyone in Cambridge gathers. Looming across the street from the college is Great St. Mary’s Church, with a climbable bell tower (£3.50, Mon-Sat 9:30-17:00, Sun 12:30-16:00, 123 stairs). On the street out front, students hawk punting tours on the Cam River (see “Punting on the Cam,” later).
Behind the church is the thriving Market Hill Square. The big market is on Sunday (9:30-16:30) and features produce, arts, and crafts. On other days, you’ll find mostly clothes and food (Mon-Sat 9:30-16:00).
The imposing Neoclassical building at the top (north) end of King’s Parade is the Senate House, the meeting place of the university’s governing body. In June, you might notice green boxes lining the front of this house. Traditionally at the end of the term, students would come to these boxes to see whether or not they’d earned their degree; if a name was not on the list, the student had flunked. Amazingly, until 2010 this was the only notification students received about their status. (Now they also get an email.)
In the opposite direction (south), at Benet Street, look for the strikingly modern Corpus Clock. Designed and commissioned by alum John Taylor, the clock was ceremonially unveiled by Stephen Hawking in 2008. It uses concentric golden dials with blue LED lights to tell the time, but it’s precise only every five minutes; its otherwise-irregular timekeeping mimics the unpredictability of life. Perched on top is Chronophage, the “eater of time”—a grotesque giant grasshopper that keeps the clock moving and periodically winks at passersby. Creepy and disturbing? Exactly, says Taylor...so is the passage of time.
Just down Benet Street on the left is the recommended Eagle Pub—Cambridge’s oldest pub and a sight in itself; it’s worth poking into the courtyard to learn about its dynamic history, even if you don’t eat or drink here. Across the street from the pub stands the oldest surviving building in Cambridgeshire, St. Benet’s Church. The Saxons who built the church included circular holes in its bell tower, to encourage owls to roost there and keep the mouse population under control.
▲▲King’s College Chapel—Built from 1446 to 1515 by Henrys VI through VIII, England’s best example of Perpendicular Gothic architecture is the single most impressive building in town.
Cost and Hours: £7.50, erratic hours depending on school schedule and events; during academic term usually Mon-Fri 9:30-15:30, Sat 9:30-15:15, Sun 13:15-14:30; during breaks (see here) usually daily 9:30-16:00; recorded info tel. 01223/331-155, www.kings.cam.ac.uk/chapel.
Evensong: When school’s in session, you’re welcome to enjoy an evensong service in this glorious space, with a famous choir made up of men and boys (free, Mon-Sat at 17:30, Sun at 15:30; for more on evensong, see here).
Getting There: You’ll see the regal front facade of King’s College along King’s Parade. To enter the chapel, curl around the back: Facing the college on King’s Parade, head right and take the first left possible (just after the Senate House, on Senate House passage); at the dead end, bear left on Trinity Lane to reach the gate where you can pay to enter the chapel.
Self-Guided Tour: Stand inside, look up, and marvel, as Christopher Wren did, at what was the largest single span of vaulted roof anywhere—2,000 tons of incredible fan vaulting, held in place by the force of gravity (a careful balancing act resting delicately on the buttresses visible outside the building).
While Henry VI—who began work on the chapel—wanted it to be austere, his descendants decided it should glorify the House of Tudor (of which his son, Henry VII, was the first king). Lining the walls are giant Tudor coats-of-arms. The shield includes a fleur-de-lis because an earlier ancestor, Edward III, woke up one day and—citing his convoluted lineage—somewhat arbitrarily declared himself king of France. The symbols on the left (a rose and the red dragon of Wales, holding the shield) represent the Tudors, the family of Henry VII’s father. On the right, the greyhound holding the shield and the portcullis (the iron grate) symbolize the family of Henry VII’s mother, Lady Margaret Beaufort, who prodded her son for years to complete this chapel.
The 26 stained-glass windows date from the 16th century. It’s the most Renaissance stained glass anywhere in one spot. (Most of the stained glass in English churches dates from Victorian times, but this glass is much older.) The lower panes show scenes from the New Testament, while the upper panes feature corresponding stories from the Old Testament. Considering England’s turbulent history, it’s miraculous that these windows have survived for nearly half a millennium in such a pristine state. After Henry VIII separated from the Catholic Church in 1534, many such windows and other Catholic features around England were destroyed. (Think of all those ruined abbeys dotting the English countryside.) However, since Henry had just paid for these windows, he couldn’t bear to get rid of them. A century later, in the days of Oliver Cromwell, another wave of iconoclasm destroyed more windows around England. Though these windows were slated for removal, they stayed put. (Historians speculate that Cromwell’s troops, who were garrisoned in this building, didn’t want the windows removed in the chilly wintertime.) Finally, during World War II, the windows were taken out and hidden away to keep them safe, and then painstakingly replaced after the war ended.
The choir screen that bisects the church was commissioned by King Henry VIII to commemorate his marriage to Anne Boleyn. By the time it was finished, so was she (beheaded). But it was too late to remove her initials, which were carved into the screen (look on the far left for R.A., for Regina Anna—“Queen Anne”).
Behind the screen is the choir area, where the King’s College Choir performs a daily evensong. On Christmas Eve, a special service is held here and broadcast around the world on the BBC—a tradition near and dear to the hearts of Brits.
Finally, walk to the altar and admire Rubens’ masterful Adoration of the Magi (1634). It’s actually a family portrait: The admirer in the front (wearing red) is a self-portrait of Rubens, Mary looks an awful lot like his much-younger wife, and the Baby Jesus resembles their own newborn at the time.
▲▲Trinity College and Wren Library—More than a third of Cambridge’s 83 Nobel Prize winners have come from this richest and biggest of the town’s colleges, founded in 1546 by Henry VIII. The college has three sights to see: the entrance gate, the grounds, and the magnificent Wren Library (due to renovation, parts or all of the college may be closed).
Cost and Hours: Grounds—£3, daily 9:30-17:00, last entry 45 minutes before closing; library—free, Mon-Fri 12:00-14:00, Nov-mid-June also Sat 10:30-12:30, closed Sun; only small groups allowed in at a time; to see Wren Library without paying for the grounds, enter from the riverside entrance, located by the Garret Hostel Bridge; tel. 01223/338-400, www.trin.cam.ac.uk.
Trinity Gate: You’ll notice gates like these adorning facades of colleges around town. Above the door is a statue of King Henry VIII, who founded Trinity because he feared that Cambridge’s existing colleges were too cozy with the Church. Notice Henry’s right hand holding a chair leg instead of the traditional crown jewels scepter. This is courtesy of Cambridge’s Night Climbers, who first replaced the scepter a century ago, and continue to periodically switch it out for other items. According to campus legend, decades ago some of the world’s most talented mountaineers enrolled at Cambridge...in one of the flattest parts of England. (Cambridge was actually a seaport until Dutch engineers drained the surrounding swamps.) Lacking opportunities to practice their skill, they began scaling the frilly facades of Cambridge’s college buildings under cover of darkness (if caught, they’d have been expelled). In the 1960s, climbers actually managed to haul an entire automobile onto the roof of the Senate House. The university had to bring in the army to cut it into pieces and remove it. Only 50 years later, at a class reunion, did the guilty parties finally ’fess up.
In the little park to the right, notice the lone apple tree. Supposedly, this tree is a descendant of the very one that once stood in the garden of Sir Isaac Newton (who spent 30 years at Trinity). According to legend, Newton was inspired to investigate gravity when an apple fell from the tree onto his head. This tree stopped bearing fruit long ago; if you do see apples, they’ve been tied on by mischievous students.
• If you like, head through the gate into the...
Trinity Grounds: The grounds are enjoyable to explore, if not quite worth the cost of admission. Inside the Great Court, the clock (on the tower on the right) double-rings at the top of each hour. It’s a college tradition to take off running from the clock when the high noon bells begin (it takes 43 seconds to clang 24 times), race around the courtyard, touching each of the four corners without setting foot on the cobbles, and return to the same spot by the time the ringing ends. Supposedly only one student (a young lord) ever managed the feat—a scene featured in Chariots of Fire (but filmed elsewhere).
The chapel (entrance to the right of the clock tower)—which pales in comparison to the stunning King’s College Chapel—feels like a shrine to thinking, with statues honoring great Trinity minds both familiar (Isaac Newton, Alfred Lord Tennyson, Francis Bacon) and unfamiliar. Who’s missing? The poet Lord Byron, who was such a hell-raiser during his time at Trinity that a statue of him was deemed unfit for Church property; his statue stands in the library instead.
Wren Library: Don’t miss the 1695 Christopher Wren-designed library, with its wonderful carving and fascinating original manuscripts. Just outside the library entrance, Sir Isaac Newton clapped his hands and timed the echo to measure the speed of sound as it raced down the side of the cloister and back. In the library’s 12 display cases (covered with cloth that you flip back), you’ll see handwritten works by Sir Isaac Newton and John Milton, alongside A. A. Milne’s original Winnie the Pooh (the real Christopher Robin attended Trinity College).
▲▲Fitzwilliam Museum—Britain’s best museum of antiquities and art outside of London is the Fitzwilliam, housed in a grand Neoclassical building a 10-minute walk south of Market Square. The Fitzwilliam’s broad collection is like a mini-British Museum/National Gallery rolled into one; you’re bound to find something you like. Helpful docents—many with degrees or doctorates in art history—are more than willing to answer questions about the collection. The ground floor features an extensive range of antiquities and applied arts—everything from Greek vases, Mesopotamian artifacts, and Egyptian sarcophagi to Roman statues, fine porcelain, and suits of armor.
Upstairs is the painting gallery, with works that span art history: Italian Venetian masters (such as Titian and Canaletto), a worthy English section (featuring Gainsborough, Reynolds, Hogarth, and others), and a notable array of French Impressionist art (including Monet, Renoir, Pissarro, Degas, and Sisley). Rounding out the collection are old manuscripts, including some musical compositions from Handel. Watch your step—in 2006, a visitor tripped and accidentally smashed three 17th-century Chinese vases. Amazingly, the vases were restored (with donations from the community) and are now on display in Gallery 17...in a protective case.
Cost and Hours: Free, but suggested £5 donation, outdated audio/videoguide-£3, Tue-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 12:00-17:00, closed Mon except bank holidays, no photos, Trumpington Street, tel. 01223/332-900, www.fitzmuseum.cam.ac.uk.
Museum of Classical Archaeology—Although this museum contains no originals, it offers a unique chance to study accurate copies (19th-century casts) of virtually every famous ancient Greek and Roman statue. More than 450 statues are on display. If you’ve seen the real things in Greece, Istanbul, Rome, and elsewhere, touring this collection is like a high school reunion...“Hey, I know you!” But since it takes some time to get here, this museum is best left to devotees of classical sculpture.
Cost and Hours: Free, Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00, Sat 10:00-13:00 during term, closed Sun, Sidgwick Avenue, tel. 01223/335-153, www.classics.cam.ac.uk/museum.
Getting There: The museum is a five-minute walk west of Silver Street Bridge; after crossing the bridge, continue straight until you reach a sign reading Sidgwick Site. The museum is in the long building on the corner to your right; the entrance is on the opposite side, and the museum is upstairs.
▲Punting on the Cam—For a little levity and probably more exercise than you really want, try hiring one of the traditional flat-bottom punts at the river and pole yourself up and down (or around and around, more likely) the lazy Cam. Once you get the hang of it, it’s a fine way to enjoy the scenic side of Cambridge. It’s less crowded in late afternoon (and less embarrassing).
Several companies rent punts and offer tours. Hawkers try to snare passengers in the thriving people zone in front of King’s College. Prices are soft in slow times—try talking them down a bit before committing.
Trinity Punt, just north of Garret Hostel Bridge, is run by Trinity College students (£14/hour, £40 deposit, 45-minute tours-£40/boat, can share ride and cost with up to 2 others, cash only, ask for quick and free lesson, Easter-mid-Oct Mon-Fri 11:00-17:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-17:30, return punts by 18:30, no rentals mid-Oct-Easter, tel. 01223/338-483). Scudamore’s has two locations: Mill Lane, just south of the central Silver Street Bridge, and the less convenient Quayside at Magdalene Bridge, at the north end of town (£16-20/hour, £90 deposit—can use credit card; 45-minute tours-£16/person, discount if you book at TI; open daily June-Aug 9:00-22:00 or later, Sept-May at least 10:00-17:00, weather permitting, tel. 01223/359-750, www.scudamores.com).
Imperial War Museum Duxford—This former airfield, nine miles south of Cambridge, is nirvana for aviation fans and WWII buffs. Wander through seven exhibition halls housing 200 vintage aircraft (including Spitfires, B-17 Flying Fortresses, a Concorde, and a Blackbird) as well as military land vehicles and special displays on Normandy and the Battle of Britain. On many weekends, the museum holds special events, such as air shows (extra fee)—check the website for details.
Cost and Hours: £17 (includes small donation), show local bus ticket for discount, daily mid-March-late Oct 10:00-18:00, late Oct-mid-March 10:00-16:00, last entry one hour before closing; Concorde interior open until 17:00, 15:00 off-season; tel. 01223/835-000, http://duxford.iwm.org.uk.
Getting There: The museum is located off the A-505 in Duxford. From Cambridge, take bus #7 from the train station (45 minutes) or from Emmanuel Street’s Stop A (55 minutes, 2-3/hour daily, www.stagecoachbus.com/cambridge).
(£1 = about $1.60, country code: 44, area code: 01223)
While Cambridge is an easy side-trip from London, its subtle charms might convince you to spend the night. Cambridge has very few accommodations in the city center, and none in the tight maze of colleges and shops where you’ll spend most of your time. These recommendations are about a 10- to 15-minute walk south of the town center, toward the train station.
$$$ Hotel du Vin blends France, England, and wine. This worthwhile splurge has 41 comfortable, spacious rooms with all the amenities above a characteristic bistro that offers good deals for guests and nonguests alike. This mod place manages to be classy yet unpretentious (Db-£150-190, fancier suites available, check online for special offers, breakfast-£13-15, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, just down the street from the Fitzwilliam Museum at Trumpington Street 15-18, tel. 01223/227-330, fax 01223/227-331, www.hotelduvin.com, reception.cambridge@hotelduvin.com).
$$$ Lensfield Hotel, popular with visiting professors, has 30 old-fashioned rooms (Sb-£69, Db-£105, pricier rooms also available, free Wi-Fi, 53 Lensfield Road, tel. 01223/355-017, fax 01223/312-022, www.lensfieldhotel.co.uk, enquiries@lensfieldhotel.co.uk).
$ Debbie and Michael Beckett rent one room in their modern home, next door to a big church halfway between downtown and the train station. The room, with a private bathroom on the hall, makes you feel like a houseguest (S-£50, D-£65, includes breakfast, 15 St. Paul’s Road, tel. 01223/315-832, debbie.beckett2@googlemail.com).
While picnicking is scenic and saves money, the weather may not always cooperate. Here are a few ideas for fortifying yourself with a lunch in central Cambridge.
The Eagle, near the TI, is the oldest pub in town, and a Cambridge institution. It has a history so rich that a visit here practically qualifies as sightseeing. Find your way into the delightful courtyard, with outdoor seating and a good look at the place’s past. The second-floor windows once lit guest rooms, back when this was a coachmen’s inn as well as a pub. Notice that the window on the right end is open; any local will love to tell you why. Follow the signs into the misnamed “RAF Bar,” where US Army Air Corps pilots signed the ceiling while stationed here during World War II. Science fans can celebrate the discovery of DNA—Francis Crick and James Watson first announced their findings here in 1953 (£5-8 lunches, £8-11 dinners, food served daily 10:00-22:00, drinks until 23:00, 8 Benet Street, tel. 01223/505-020).
The Michaelhouse Café is a heavenly respite from the crowds, tucked into the repurposed St. Michael’s Church, just north of Great St. Mary’s Church. At lunch, choose from salads, soups, and sandwiches, as well as a few hot dishes and a variety of tasty baked goods (£7-10 light meals, Mon-Sat 8:00-17:00, breakfast served 8:00-11:00, lunch served 11:30-15:30, hot drinks and baked goods always available, closed Sun, Trinity Street, tel. 01223/309-147). On weekdays after 14:30 you can pay £4 to fill your plate with whatever they have left.
Café Carringtons is a cozy cafeteria that serves traditional British food at reasonable prices, including a Sunday roast lunch (£6-8 meals, £5 sandwiches, Mon-Sat 8:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-16:00, down the stairs at 23 Market Street, tel. 01223/361-792).
Café Munch serves handcrafted sandwiches and panini on locally baked bread. Select one of the pre-invented items or pay by ingredient and create your own. Their homemade desserts, including specialty cakes and rocky road tiffin, are a nice treat (£3-5 sandwiches, £4-5 panini, salads around £6, daily 8:00-17:30, 40 Green Street, tel. 01223/364-774).
Supermarkets: There’s a Marks & Spencer Simply Food at the train station and a larger Marks & Spencer department store on Market Hill Square (Mon-Thu 9:00-18:00, Wed until 19:00, Fri 9:00-19:00, Sat 9:00-18:30, Sun 11:00-17:00, tel. 01223/355-219). Sainsbury’s supermarket has longer hours (Mon-Sat 8:00-23:30, Sun 11:00-17:00, 44 Sidney Street, at the corner of Green Street).
A good picnic spot is Laundress Green, a grassy park on the river, at the end of Mill Lane near the Silver Street Bridge punts. There are no benches, so bring something to sit on. Remember, the college lawns are private property, so walking or picnicking on the grass is generally not allowed. When in doubt, ask at the college’s entrance.
From Cambridge by Train to: York (hourly, 2.5 hours, transfer in Peterborough), Oxford (2/hour, 2.5 hours, change in London involves Tube transfer between train stations), London (King’s Cross Station: 3/hour, 45-60 minutes; Liverpool Street Station: 4/hour, 1.25 hours). Train info: Tel. 0845-748-4950, www.nationalrail.co.uk.
By Bus to: London (hourly, 2-2.5 hours), Heathrow Airport (hourly, 2-3 hours). Bus info: Tel. 08717-818-181, www.nationalexpress.com.