Orientation to Chipping Campden
Orientation to Stow-on-the-Wold
Orientation to Moreton-in-Marsh
Sleeping near Blenheim Palace, in Woodstock
Chipping Campden • Stow-on-the-Wold • Moreton-in-Marsh • Blenheim Palace
The Cotswold Hills, a 25-by-90-mile chunk of Gloucestershire, are dotted with enchanting villages and graced with England’s greatest countryside palace, Blenheim. As with many fairy-tale regions of Europe, the present-day beauty of the Cotswolds was the result of an economic disaster. Wool was a huge industry in medieval England, and Cotswold sheep grew the best wool. A 12th-century saying bragged, “In Europe the best wool is English. In England the best wool is Cotswold.” The region prospered. Wool money built fine towns and houses. Local “wool” churches are called “cathedrals” for their scale and wealth. Stained-glass slogans say things like “I thank my God and ever shall, it is the sheep hath paid for all.”
With the rise of cotton and the Industrial Revolution, the woolen industry collapsed. Ba-a-a-ad news. The wealthy Cotswold towns fell into a depressed time warp; the homes of impoverished nobility became gracefully dilapidated. Today, visitors enjoy a harmonious blend of man and nature—the most pristine of English countrysides decorated with time-passed villages, rich wool churches, tell-me-a-story stone fences, and “kissing gates” you wouldn’t want to experience alone. Appreciated by throngs of 21st-century Romantics, the Cotswolds are enjoying new prosperity.
The north Cotswolds are best. Two of the region’s coziest towns, Chipping Campden and Stow-on-the-Wold, are eight and four miles, respectively, from Moreton-in-Marsh, which has the best public transportation connections. Any of these three towns makes a fine home base for your exploration of the thatch-happiest of Cotswold villages and walks.
The Cotswolds are an absolute delight by car and, with patience, enjoyable even without a car. On a three-week country-wide trip, I’d spend at least two nights and a day in the Cotswolds. The Cotswolds’ charm has a softening effect on many uptight itineraries. You could enjoy days of walking from a home base here.
Home Bases: Chipping Campden and Stow-on-the-Wold are quaint without being overrun, and both have good accommodations. Stow has a bit more character for an overnight stay and offers the widest range of choices. The plain town of Moreton-in-Marsh is the only one of the three with a train station, and only worth visiting as a transit hub. While Moreton has the most convenient connections, non-drivers can also make it work to home-base in Chipping Campden or Stow—especially if you don’t mind sorting through bus schedules or springing for the occasional taxi to connect towns. (This becomes even more challenging on Sundays, when there is essentially no bus service.) With a car, consider really getting away from it all by staying in one of the smaller villages.
Nearby Sights: England’s top countryside palace, Blenheim, is located at the eastern edge of the Cotswolds, between Moreton and Oxford (see end of this chapter); for drivers, Blenheim fits well on the way into or out of the region. If you want to take in some Shakespeare, note that Stow, Chipping Campden, and Moreton are only a 30-minute drive from Stratford, which offers a great evening of world-class entertainment (see next chapter).
One-Day Driver’s 100-Mile Cotswold Blitz: Use a good map and reshuffle this plan to fit your home base:
| 9:00 | Browse through Chipping Campden, following my self-guided walk. |
| 10:30 | Joyride through Snowshill, Stanway, and Stanton. |
| 12:30 | Have lunch in Stow-on-the-Wold, then follow my self-guided walk there. |
| 15:00 | Drive to the Slaughters, Bourton-on-the-Water, and Bibury; or, if you’re up for a hike instead of a drive, walk from Stow to the Slaughters to Bourton, then catch the bus back to Stow. |
| 18:00 | Have dinner at a countryside gastropub (reserve in advance by phone), then head home; or drive 30 minutes to Stratford-upon-Avon for a Shakespeare play. |
Two-Day Plan by Public Transportation: This plan is best for any day except Sunday—when virtually no buses run—and assumes you’re home-basing in Moreton-in-Marsh.
Day 1: Take the morning bus (likely around 9:30) to Chipping Campden to explore that town. If you want to stretch your legs, hike 30 minutes (each way) into Broad Campden. Then take the bus from Chipping Campden to Moreton and transfer to a Stow-bound bus. After poking around Stow, hike from Stow through the Slaughters to Bourton-on-the-Water (about 3 hours at a relaxed pace), then return by bus or taxi to Moreton for dinner. (For less walking and more time for an early dinner in Stow, do just part of the hike, or take the bus from Stow to Bourton and back.)
Day 2: Take a day trip to Blenheim Palace via Oxford (train to Oxford, bus to palace—explained on here); or rent a bike and ride to Chastleton House; or take a daylong countryside walk (best to bus to Stow or Chipping Campden and walk from there).
Local TIs stock a wide array of helpful resources. Ask for the Cotswold Lion weekly newspaper, which includes suggestions for walks and hikes (spring/summer); the monthly Cotswold Events guide; bus schedules for the routes you’ll be using; and the Attractions and Events Guide (with updated prices and hours for Cotswolds sights). Each village also has its own assortment of brochures about the place itself, and the surrounding countryside, often for a small fee (£0.50-1). While paying for these items seems chintzy, realize that Cotswolds TIs have lost much of their funding and are struggling to make ends meet (some are run by volunteers).
The Cotswolds are so well-preserved, in part, because public transportation to and within this area has long been miserable. Fortunately, larger towns are linked by trains, and a few key buses connect the more interesting villages. Centrally located Moreton-in-the-Marsh is the region’s transit hub—with the only train station and several bus lines.
To explore the towns, use the bus routes that hop through the Cotswolds about every 1.5 hours, lacing together main stops and ending at rail stations. In each case, the entire trip takes about an hour. Individual fares are around £2-3.
The TI hands out easy-to-read bus schedules for the key lines described below (or check www.traveline.org.uk, or call the Traveline info line, tel. 0871-200-2233). Put together a one-way or return trip by public transportation, making for a fine Cotswolds day. If you’re traveling one-way between two train stations, remember that the Cotswold villages—generally pretty clueless when it comes to the needs of travelers without a car—have no official baggage-check services. You’ll need to improvise; ask sweetly at the nearest TI or business.
Note that no single bus connects the three major towns described in this chapter (Chipping Campden, Stow, and Moreton); to get between Chipping Campden and Stow, you’ll have to change buses in Moreton. Since buses can be unreliable and connections aren’t timed, it may be better to call a driver or taxi to go between Chipping Campden and Stow.
The following bus lines are operated by Johnsons Coaches (tel. 01564/797-000, www.johnsonscoaches.co.uk): Buses #21 and #22 run from Moreton-in-Marsh to Batsford to Bourton-on-the-Hill to Blockley, then either to Broadway (#21) or Broad Campden (#22) on their way to Chipping Campden, and pass through Mickleton before ending at Stratford-upon-Avon. Note that this route is the only one that goes all the way through to Chipping Campden. Bus #23 goes from Moreton-in-Marsh to Shipston-on-Stour to Stratford-upon-Avon.
The following buses are operated by Pulham & Sons Coaches (tel. 01451/820-369, www.pulhamscoaches.com): Bus #801 goes from Moreton-in-Marsh to Stow-on-the-Wold to Bourton-on-the-Water; most continue on to Northleach and Cheltenham (limited service on Sun in summer). Bus #855 goes from Northleach to Bibury to Cirencester and then (in the morning and evening) on to the Kemble train station.
Warning: Unfortunately, the buses described here aren’t particularly reliable—it’s not uncommon for them to show up late, early, or not at all. Leave yourself a huge cushion if using buses to make another connection (such as a train to London), and always have a backup plan (such as the phone number for a few taxis/drivers or for your hotel, who can try calling someone for you). Remember that bus service is essentially nonexistent on Sundays.
Despite narrow roads, high hedgerows (blocking some views), and even higher hills, bikers enjoy the Cotswolds free from the constraints of bus schedules. For each area, TIs have fine route planners that indicate which peaceful, paved lanes are particularly scenic for biking. In summer, it’s smart to book your rental bike a couple of days ahead.
In Chipping Campden, you have two options: Cycle Cotswolds, right in town at the Volunteer Inn pub, is the most convenient (£10/day, £15/24 hours, daily 7:00-dusk, Lower High Street, tel. 01789/720-193, www.cyclecotswolds.co.uk). Otherwise, try Cotswold Country Cycles (£15/day, tandem-£30/day, includes helmets and route maps, delivery for a fee, daily 9:30-dusk Easter-Sept only, 2 miles north of town at Longlands Farm Cottage, call in advance—tel. 01386/438-706, www.cotswoldcountrycycles.com); they also offer self-led bike tours of the Cotswolds and surrounding areas (2-7 days, see website for details).
In Moreton-in-Marsh, the nice folks at the Toy Shop rent mountain bikes. You can stop in the shop to rent a bike, or call ahead to pick up or drop off at other times—they’re flexible (£15/day with route maps, bike locks, and helmets; shop open Mon and Wed-Fri 9:00-13:00 & 14:00-17:00, Sat 10:00-17:00, closed Sun and Tue, High Street, tel. 01608/650-756).
Stow-on-the-Wold does not have any bike-rental shops.
Walking guidebooks and leaflets abound, giving you a world of choices for each of my recommended stops (choose a book with clear maps). If you’re doing any hiking whatsoever, get the excellent Ordnance Survey Explorer OL #45 map, which shows every road, trail, and ridgeline (£8 at local TIs). Nearly every hotel and B&B has a box or shelf of local walking guides and maps, including Ordnance Survey #45. Don’t hesitate to ask for a loaner. For a quick circular hike from a particular village, peruse the books and brochures offered by that village’s TI. Villages are generally no more than three miles apart, and most have pubs that would love to feed and water you. For a list of guided walks, ask at any TI for the free Cotswold Lion newspaper. The walks range from 2 to 12 miles, and often involve a stop at a pub or tearoom (April-Sept; Lion newspaper also online at www.cotswoldsaonb.org.uk—click on “Publications”). Another option is to leave the planning to a company such as Cotswold Walking Holidays, which can provide route instructions and maps, transfer your bags, and arrange lodging (www.cotswoldwalks.com).
There are many options for hikers, ranging from the “Cotswold Way” path that leads 100 miles from Chipping Campden all the way to Bath, to easy loop trips to the next village. Serious hikers enjoy doing a several-day loop, walking for several hours each day and sleeping in a different village each night. One popular route is the “Cotswold Ring”: Day 1—Moreton-in-Marsh to Stow-on-the-Wold to the Slaughters to Bourton-on-the-Water (12 miles); Day 2—Bourton-on-the-Water to Winchcombe (13 miles); Day 3—Winchcombe to Stanway to Stanton (7 miles), or all the way to Broadway (10.5 miles total); Day 4—On to Chipping Campden (just 5.5 miles, but steeply uphill); Day 5—Chipping Campden to Broad Campden, Blockley, Bourton-on-the-Hill or Batsford, and back to Moreton (7 miles).
Realistically, on a short visit, you won’t have time for that much hiking. But if you have a few hours to spare, consider venturing across the pretty hills and meadows of the Cotswolds. Each of the home-base villages I recommend has several options. Stow-on-the-Wold, immersed in pretty but not-too-hilly terrain, is within easy walking distance of several interesting spots and is probably the best starting point. Chipping Campden sits along a ridge, which means that hikes from there are extremely scenic, but also more strenuous. Moreton—true to its name—sits on a marsh, offering flatter and less picturesque hikes.
Here are a few hikes to consider, in order of difficulty (easiest first). I’ve selected these for their convenience to the home-base towns and because the start and/or end points are on bus lines, allowing you to hitch a ride back to where you started (or on to the next town) rather than backtracking by foot.
Stow, the Slaughters, and Bourton-on-the-Water: Walk from Stow to Upper and Lower Slaughter, then on to Bourton-on-the-Water (which has bus service back to Stow on #801). One big advantage of this walk is that it’s mostly downhill (4 miles, about 2-3 hours one-way). For details, see here.
Chipping Campden, Broad Campden, Blockley, and Bourton-on-the-Hill: From Chipping Campden, it’s an easy mile walk into charming Broad Campden, and from there, a more strenuous hike to Blockley and Bourton-on-the-Hill (which are both connected by buses #21 and #22 to Chipping Campden and Moreton). For more details, see here.
Winchcombe, Stanway, Stanton, and Broadway: You can reach the charming villages of Stanway and Stanton by foot, but it’s tough going—lots of up and down. The start and end points (Winchcombe and Broadway) have decent bus connections, and in a pinch some buses do serve Stanton (but carefully check schedules before you set out).
Broadway to Chipping Campden: The hardiest hike of those I list here, this takes you along the Cotswold Ridge. Attempt it only if you’re a serious hiker (5.5 miles).
Bibury and the Coln Valley are pretty, but limited bus access makes hiking there less appealing.
Joyriding here truly is a joy. Winding country roads seem designed to spring bucolic village-and-countryside scenes on the driver at every turn. Distances here are wonderfully short—but only if you invest in the Ordnance Survey map of the Cotswolds, sold locally at TIs and newsstands (the £8 Explorer OL #45 map is excellent but almost too detailed for drivers; a £5 tour map covers a wider area in less detail). Here are driving distances from Moreton: Stow-on-the-Wold (4 miles), Chipping Campden (8 miles), Broadway (10 miles), Stratford-upon-Avon (17 miles), Warwick (23 miles), Blenheim Palace (20 miles).
Car hiking is great. In this chapter, I cover the postcard-perfect (but discovered) villages. With a car and the local Ordnance Survey map, you can easily ramble about and find your own gems. The problem with having a car is that you are less likely to walk. Consider taking a taxi or bus somewhere, so that you can walk back to your car and enjoy the scenery (see suggestions earlier).
Car Rental: Two places near Moreton-in-Marsh rent cars by the day. Value Self Drive, based in Shipston-on-Stour (about six miles north of Moreton) and run by Steve Bradley, has affordable rates (£23-35/day plus tax, includes insurance, cheaper for longer rentals; open Mon-Sat 8:15-17:30, Sun by appointment only; call ahead to arrange, mobile 07974-805-485, stevebradleycars@aol.com). Conveniently, Steve will pick you up in Moreton (£8) or Stratford-upon-Avon (£12), and bring you back to Shipston to get your car. Robinson Goss Self Drive, also six miles north of Moreton-in-Marsh, is a bit more expensive and won’t bring the car to you in Moreton (£31-52/day including everything but gas, Mon-Thu 8:30-17:00, Fri 8:30-17:30, Sat 8:30-12:00, closed Sun, tel. 01608/663-322, www.robgos.co.uk).
Two or three town-to-town taxi trips can make more sense than renting a car. While taking a cab cross-country seems extravagant, the distances are short (Stow to Moreton is 4 miles, Stow to Chipping Campden is 10), and one-way walks are lovely. If you call a cab, confirm that the meter will start only when you are actually picked up. Consider hiring a private driver at the hourly “touring rate” (generally around £30), rather than the meter rate. For a few more bucks, you can have a joyride peppered with commentary. Whether you book a taxi or a private driver, expect to pay about £20-23 between Chipping Campden and Stow and about £18-20 between Chipping Campden and Moreton.
Note that the drivers listed here are not typical city taxi services (with many drivers on call), but are mostly individuals—it’s smart to call ahead if you’re arriving in high season, since they can be booked in advance on weekends.
To scare up a driver in Moreton, call Moreton Taxis (toll-free tel. 0800-955-8584) or Iain Swallow Taxis (mobile 07789-897-966); for more options, see the list of taxi phone numbers posted outside the Moreton train station office. In Stow, try Iain (above) or Tony Knight (mobile 07887-714-047). In Chipping Campden, call Iain (above), Paul at Cotswold Private Hire (mobile 07980-857-833), Barry Roberts at Chipping Campden Private Hire (mobile 07774-224-684, also does tours), or Graham Townsend at Campden Taxis (mobile 0799-997-9931, also does tours, www.campdentaxis.co.uk). Tim Harrison at Tour the Cotswolds specializes in tours of the Cotswolds and its gardens, but will also do tours outside the area (mobile 07779-030-820, www.tourthecotswolds.co.uk; Tim co-runs a recommended B&B in Snowshill—see here).
Departing from Bath, Mad Max Minibus Tours offers a Cotswold Discovery full-day tour, and can drop you off in Stow with your luggage if you arrange it in advance (see here of the Bath chapter).
While none of the Cotswold towns offer regularly scheduled walks, many have voluntary warden groups who love to meet visitors and give walks for a small donation (see specific contact information below for Chipping Campden).
Just touristy enough to be convenient, the north Cotswolds town of Chipping Campden (CAM-den) is a ▲▲ sight. This market town, once the home of the richest Cotswold wool merchants, has some incredibly beautiful thatched roofs. Both the great British historian G. M. Trevelyan and I call Chipping Campden’s High Street the finest in England.
To get your bearings, walk the full length of High Street; its width is characteristic of market towns. Go around the block on both ends. On one end, you’ll find impressively thatched homes (out Sheep Street, past the public WC, and right on Westington Street). Walking north on High Street, you’ll pass the Market Hall, the wavy roof of the first great wool mansion, a fine and free memorial garden, and, finally, the town’s famous 15th-century Perpendicular Gothic “wool” church. (This route is the same as my self-guided town walk.)
Chipping Campden’s TI is tucked away in the old police station on High Street. Get the £1.50 town guide, which includes a map (April-Oct daily 9:30-17:00; Nov-March Mon-Thu 9:30-13:00, Fri-Sun 9:30-16:00; tel. 01386/841-206, www.chippingcampdenonline.org).
Festivals: Chipping Campden’s biggest festival is the Cotswold Olimpicks, a series of tongue-in-cheek countryside games (such as competitive shin-kicking) atop Dover’s Hill, just above town (first Fri-Sat after Late May Bank Holiday, www.olimpickgames.co.uk). They also have an open gardens festival the third weekend in June and a music festival in May.
Internet Access: Try the occasionally open library (closed Thu and Sun; High Street, tel. 08452/305-420) or Butty’s at the Old Bakehouse, a casual eatery and Internet café (£1.50/15 minutes, £2.50/30 minutes, £4/hour, free Wi-Fi, see here for hours, Lower High Street, tel. 01386/840-401).
Bike Rental: Call Cycle Cotswolds or Cotswold Country Cycles (see here).
Taxi: Try Cotswold Private Hire, Chipping Campden Private Hire, Campden Taxis, or Tour the Cotswolds (for contact info, see facing page).
Parking: Find a spot anywhere along High Street and park for free with no time limit. There’s also a pay-and-display lot on High Street, across from the TI (1.5-hour maximum).
Tours: The local members of the Cotswold Voluntary Wardens would be happy to show you around town for a small donation to their conservation society (suggested donation-£3/person, 1-hour walk, walks June-Sept Tue at 14:30 and Thu at 10:00, meet at Market Hall). Tour guide and coordinator Ann Colcomb can help arrange for a walk on other days as well (tel. 01386/832-131).
Walks and Hikes from Chipping Campden: Since this is a particularly hilly area, long-distance hikes are challenging. The easiest and most rewarding stroll is to the thatch-happy hobbit village of Broad Campden (about a mile, mostly level). From there, you can walk or take the bus (#22) back to Chipping Campden.
Or, if you have more energy, continue from Broad Campden up over the ridge and into picturesque Blockley—and, if your stamina holds out, all the way to Bourton-on-the-Hill (Blockley and Bourton-on-the-Hill are also connected by buses #21 and #22 to Chipping Campden and Moreton).
Alternatively, you can hike up to Dover’s Hill, just north of the village. Ask locally about this easy circular one-hour walk that takes you on the first mile of the 100-mile-long Cotswold Way (which goes from here to Bath).
For more about hiking, see “Getting Around the Cotswolds—By Foot” on here.
(See “Chipping Campden” map, here)
This stroll through “Campden” (as locals call their town) takes you from the Market Hall west to the old silk mill, and then back east the length of High Street to the church. It takes about an hour.
Market Hall: Begin at Campden’s most famous monument—the Market Hall. It stands in front of the TI, marking the town center. The Market Hall was built in 1627 by the 17th-century Lord of the Manor, Sir Baptist Hicks. (Look for the Hicks family coat of arms in the building’s facade.) Back then, it was an elegant—even over-the-top—shopping hall for the townsfolk who’d come here to buy their produce. In the 1940s, it was almost sold to an American, but the townspeople heroically raised money to buy it first, then gave it to the National Trust for its preservation.
The timbers inside are true to the original. Study the classic Cotswold stone roof, still held together with wooden pegs nailed in from underneath. (Tiles were cut and sold with peg holes, and stacked like waterproof scales.) Buildings all over the region still use these stone shingles. Today, the hall, which is rarely used, stands as a testimony to the importance of trade to medieval Campden.
Adjacent to the Market Hall is the sober WWI monument—a reminder of the huge price paid by every little town. Walk around it, noticing how 1918 brought the greatest losses.
The TI is just across the street, in the old police courthouse. If it’s open, you’re welcome to climb the stairs and peek into the Magistrate’s Court (free, same hours as TI, ask at TI to go up). Under the open-beamed courtroom, you’ll find a humble little exhibit on the town’s history.
• Walk west until you reach the Red Lion Inn. Across High Street (and a bit to the right), look for the house with a sundial, called...
“Green Dragons”: The house’s decorative black cast-iron fixtures once held hay and functioned much like salad bowls for horses. Fine-cut stones define the door, but “rubble stones” make up the rest of the wall. The pink stones are the same limestone but have been heated, and likely were scavenged from a house that burned down.
• At the Red Lion, leave High Street and walk a block down Sheep Street. Just past the public loo, on the right-hand side, is the old...
Silk Mill: The tiny Cam River powered a mill here since about 1790. Today it houses the handicraft workers guild and some interesting history. In 1902, Charles Robert Ashbee (1863-1942) revitalized this sleepy hamlet of 2,500 by bringing a troupe of London artisans and their families (160 people in all) to town. Ashbee was a leader in the romantic Arts and Crafts movement—craftspeople repulsed by the Industrial Revolution who idealized handmade crafts and preindustrial ways. Ashbee’s idealistic craftsmen’s guild lasted only until 1908, when most of his men grew bored with their small-town, back-to-nature ideals. Today, the only shop surviving from the originals is that of silversmith David Hart. His grandfather came to town with Ashbee, and the workshop (upstairs in the mill building) is an amazing time warp—little changed since 1902. Mr. Hart is a gracious man as well as a fine silversmith, and he welcomes browsers six days a week (Sat until 12:00, closed Sun, tel. 01386/841-100). (While you could continue 200 yards farther to see some fine thatched houses, this walk doesn’t.)
• Return to High Street, turn right, and walk through town.
High Street: Chipping Campden’s High Street has changed little architecturally since 1840. (The town’s street plan and property lines survive from the 12th century.) Notice the harmony of the long rows of buildings. While the street comprises different styles through the centuries, everything you see was made of the same Cotswold stone—the only stone allowed today.
To remain level, High Street arcs with the contour of the hillside. Because it’s so wide, you know this was a market town. In past centuries, livestock and packhorses laden with piles of freshly shorn fleece would fill the streets. Campden was a sales and distribution center for the wool industry, and merchants from as far away as Italy would come here for the prized raw wool.
High Street has no house numbers: Locals know the houses by their names. In the distance, you’ll see the town church (where this walk ends). Notice that the power lines are buried underground, making the scene delightfully uncluttered.
As you stroll High Street, you’ll find the finest houses on the uphill side—which gets more sun. You’ll pass several old sundials as you wander. Decorative features (like the Ionic capitals near the TI) are added for non-structural touches of class. Most High Street buildings are half-timbered, but with cosmetic stone facades. You may see some exposed half-timbered walls. Study the crudely beautiful framing, made of hand-hewn oak (you can see the adze marks) and held together by wooden pegs.
Peeking down alleys, you’ll notice how the lots are narrow but very deep. Called “burgage plots,” this platting goes back to 1170. In medieval times, rooms were lined up long and skinny like train cars: Each building had a small storefront, followed by a workshop, living quarters, staff quarters, stables, and a pea patch-type garden at the very back. Now the private alleys that still define many of these old lots lead to comfy gardens. While some of today’s buildings are wider, virtually all the widths are exact multiples of that basic first unit (for example, a modern building may be three times wider than its medieval counterpart).
• Hike up High Street toward the church, to just before the first intersection, to find a house with gargoyles hanging out above. This is the....
Grevel House: In 1367, William Grevel built what’s considered Campden’s first stone house (on the left). Sheep tycoons had big homes. Imagine back then, when this fine building was surrounded by humble wattle-and-daub huts. It had newfangled chimneys, rather than a crude hole in the roof. (No more rain inside!) Originally a “hall house” with just one big, tall room, it got its upper floor in the 16th century. The finely carved central bay window is a good early example of the Perpendicular Gothic style. The gargoyles scared away bad spirits—and served as rain spouts. The boot scrapers outside each door were fixtures in that muddy age—especially in market towns, where the streets were filled with animal dung.
• Continue up High Street for about 100 yards. Go past Church Street (which we’ll walk up later). On the right, you’ll find a small Gothic arch leading into a garden.
Ernest Wilson Memorial Garden: Once the church’s vegetable patch, this small and secluded garden is a botanist’s delight today. Pop inside if it’s open. The garden is filled with well-labeled plants that the Victorian botanist Ernest Wilson brought back to England from his extensive travels in Asia. There’s a complete history of the garden on the board to the left of the entry.
• Backtrack to Church Street. Turn left, walk past the recommended Eight Bells Inn, and hook left with the street. Along your right-hand side stretches...
Baptist Hicks Land: Sprawling adjacent to the town church, the area known as Baptist Hicks Land held Hicks’ huge estate and manor house. This influential Lord of the Manor was from “a family of substance,” who were merchants of silk and fine clothing as well as moneylenders. Beyond the ornate gate (which you’ll see ahead, near the church), only a few outbuildings and the charred corner of his mansion survive. The mansion was burned by Royalists in 1645 during the Civil War—notice how Cotswold stone turns red when burned. Hicks housed the poor, making a show of his generosity, adding a long row of almshouses (with his family coat of arms) for neighbors to see as they walked to church. These almshouses (lining Church Street on the left) house pensioners today, as they have since the 17th century.
On the right, filling the old Court Barn, is a museum about crafts and designs from the Arts and Crafts movement, with works by Ashbee and his craftsmen (£4, April-Sept Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, Oct-March Tue-Sun 10:00-16:00, closed Mon year-round, tel. 01386/841-951, www.courtbarn.org.uk).
• Next to the Court Barn, a scenic, tree-lined lane leads to the front door of the church. On the way, notice the 12 lime trees, one for each of the apostles, that were planted in about 1760 (sorry, no limes).
St. James Church: One of the finest churches in the Cotswolds, St. James Church graces one of its leading towns. Both the town and the church were built by wool wealth. Go inside. The church is Perpendicular Gothic, with lots of light and strong verticality. Notice the fine vestments and altar hangings (intricate c. 1460 embroidery) behind protective blue curtains (near the back of the church). Tombstones pave the floor in the chancel (often under protective red carpeting)—memorializing great wool merchants through the ages.
At the altar is a brass relief of William Grevel, the first owner of the Grevel House (described earlier), and his wife. But it is Sir Baptist Hicks who dominates the church. His huge, canopied tomb is the ornate final resting place for Hicks and his wife, Elizabeth. Study their faces, framed by fancy lace ruffs (trendy in the 1620s). Adjacent—as if in a closet—is a statue of their daughter, Lady Juliana, and her husband, Lutheran Yokels. Juliana commissioned the statue in 1642, when her husband died, but had it closed until she died in 1680. Then, the doors were opened, revealing these two people holding hands and living happily ever after—at least in marble. The hinges were likely used only once.
As you leave the church, look immediately around the corner to the left of the door. A small tombstone reads “Thank you Lord for Simon, a dearly loved cat who greeted everyone who entered this church. RIP 1980.”
(area code: 01386)
In Chipping Campden—as in any town in the Cotswolds—B&Bs offer a better value than hotels. Rooms are generally tight on Saturdays (when many charge a bit more and are reluctant to rent to one-nighters) and in September, which is considered a peak month. Parking is never a problem. Always ask for a discount if staying longer than one or two nights.
Located on the main street (or just off of it), these places couldn’t be more central.
$$$ Noel Arms Hotel, the characteristic old hotel on the main square, has welcomed guests for 600 years. Its lobby was recently remodeled in a medieval-meets-modern style, and its 27 rooms are well-furnished with antiques (standard Db-£120, bigger Db-£140, fancier 4-poster Db-£160-180, deluxe king Db-£180, £10 less for singles, prices are lower midweek or off-season, some ground-floor doubles, free Wi-Fi in lobby, attached restaurant/bar and café, free parking, High Street, tel. 01386/840-317, fax 01386/841-136, www.noelarmshotel.com, reception@noelarmshotel.com).
$$$ The Lygon Arms Hotel (pronounced “lig-un”), attached to the popular pub of the same name, has small public areas and 10 cheery, open-beamed rooms (one small older Db-£80-85, huge “superior” Db-£115-120, lovely courtyard Db-£145-165, lower prices are for midweek or multi-night stays, family deals, free Wi-Fi, free parking, High Street, go through archway and look for hotel reception on the left, tel. 01386/840-318, www.lygonarms.co.uk, sandra@lygonarms.co.uk, Sandra Davenport).
$$$ Badgers Hall Tea Room, also listed later under “Eating in Chipping Campden,” rents three pricey rooms (small low-ceilinged Db-£95, larger Db-£100-113, 2-night minimum, includes breakfast and tea, no kids under age 10, free Wi-Fi, High Street, tel. 01386/840-839, www.badgershall.com, Karen).
$$ Cornerways B&B is a fresh, bright, and comfy modern home (not “oldie worldie”) a block off High Street. It’s run by the delightful Carole Proctor, who can “look out the window and see the church where we were married.” The two huge, light, airy loft rooms are great for families (Db-£75, Tb-£100, Qb-£120, 2-night minimum, £5 off for 3 or more nights, cash only, free Wi-Fi, off-street parking, George Lane, just walk through the arch beside Noel Arms Hotel, tel. 01386/841-307, www.cornerways.info, carole@cornerways.info). For a fee, they’re willing to pick you up from the train station, as well as take you on village tours and guided local walks.
$$ Stonecroft B&B, next to Cornerways (listed above), has three polished, well-maintained rooms (one with low, slanted ceilings—unfriendly to tall people). The lovely garden with a patio and small stream is a tranquil place for meals or an early-evening drink (Sb-£60, Db-£73, Tb-£110, Qb-£146, no kids under 10, free Wi-Fi, George Lane, tel. 01386/840-486, www.stonecroft-chippingcampden.co.uk, info@stonecroft-chippingcampden.co.uk, Roger and Lesley Yates).
$$ The Old Bakehouse, run by energetic young mom Zoe, rents two small but pleasant twin-bedded rooms in a 600-year-old home with a plush fireplace lounge (Sb-£60, Db-£75, cash only, free Wi-Fi, Lower High Street, tel. & fax 01386/840-979, www.theoldbakehouse.org.uk, zoegabb@yahoo.co.uk).
The first two B&Bs are on Aston Road, a 10-minute walk from the town center (if arriving by bus, ask to be dropped off at Aston Road). Sandalwood House is a five-minute walk from High Street.
$$ The Chance B&B—a modern home with Cotswolds charm—has four tastefully decorated rooms, a small lounge area, and a new breakfast room that opens onto a patio. The super-king room has a private garden entry (Sb-£70, Db-£75, super-king Db-£90, discounts for stays of 5 nights or longer, cash only, free Wi-Fi, free parking, 1 Aston Road, tel. 01386/849-079, www.the-chance.co.uk, enquiries@the-chance.co.uk, Sally and Paul).
$$ Bramley House, just past the Chance B&B (listed above), backs up to a farm. Its three rooms include a spacious garden suite with a private outdoor patio and lounge area (bathroom downstairs from bedroom). Crisp white linens and simple country decor give the place a light and airy feel (standard Db-£70-75, king Db-£80-85, garden suite Db-£90-95, 2-night minimum, homemade cake with tea or coffee on arrival, locally sourced/organic breakfast, free Wi-Fi, 6 Aston Road, tel. 01386/840-066, www.bramleyhouse.co.uk, bramleybb@btinternet.com, Jane Povey).
$$ Sandalwood House B&B is a big, comfy, heavily potpourri-scented home with a pink flowery lounge and a sprawling back garden in a quiet, woodsy setting. Its two cheery, pastel rooms are bright and spacious (D/Db-£76, T-£98, 2-night minimum, cheaper if you order a light breakfast instead of full, cash only, no kids under age 12, free Wi-Fi, free off-street parking, tel. & fax 01386/840-091, sandalwoodhouse@hotmail.com, Diana Bendall). It’s a five-minute walk from the center of town: Go west on High Street; at the church and the Volunteer Inn, turn right and then right again; look for a sign in the hedge on the left, and head up the long driveway.
(See “Chipping Campden” map, here)
This town—filled with wealthy residents and tourists—comes with many choices. I’ve listed some local favorites below. If you have a car, consider driving to one of the excellent countryside pubs mentioned in the sidebar on here.
The Eight Bells pub is a charming 14th-century inn on Leysbourne with a classy and woody restaurant and a more colorful pub. For more than a decade now, Neil and Julie have enjoyed keeping their seasonal menu as locally sourced as possible. They serve a daily special, are proud of their fish dishes, and always have a good vegetarian dish. As this is rightly considered the best deal going in town for top-end pub dining, reservations are smart (£13-20 dinners, daily 12:00-14:00 & 18:30-21:00, later Fri-Sat, tel. 01386/840-371).
The Lygon Arms pub is cozy and inviting, with a good, basic bar menu. You can order from the same menu in the colorful pub or the more elegant dining room across the passage (£7 sandwiches, £8-15 meals, daily 11:30-14:30 & 18:00-22:00, tel. 01386/840-318).
Michael’s, a fun Mediterranean restaurant on High Street, serves hearty portions and breaks plates at closing every Saturday night. Michael, who runs his place with a contagious passion and love of life, is from Cyprus: The forte here is Greek, with plenty of mezes—small dishes for £5-10 (also £15-20 larger dishes, £7 meze lunch platter, Tue-Sat 11:00-14:30 & 19:00-22:00, Sun 12:00-15:00, closed Mon, tel. 01386/840-826).
Maharaja Indian Restaurant in the Volunteer Inn, while forgettable, is the only Indian place in town (£8-15 meals, daily 17:30-22:30, later Fri-Sat, grassy courtyard out back, Lower High Street, tel. 01386/849-281).
(See “Chipping Campden” map, here)
If you want a quick, take-away sandwich, consider these options. Munch your lunch on the benches on the little green near the Market Hall.
Le Petit Croissant, a cheery little French deli with a tearoom in the back, serves pastries, quiche, cheese, and wine (£4 sandwiches, more to eat in, Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00, Sat 8:30-17:00, Sun 10:00-16:00, Lower High Street, tel. 01386/841-861).
Butty’s at the Old Bakehouse offers tasty £2-4 sandwiches and wraps made to order (Mon-Fri 7:30-14:30, Sat 8:30-14:00, closed Sun, Lower High Street, tel. 01386/840-401). They also have Internet access (see “Helpful Hints,” earlier).
Picnic: The Co-op grocery store is the town’s small “supermarket” (Mon-Sat 7:00-22:00, Sun 8:00-22:00, next to TI on High Street).
(See “Chipping Campden” map, here)
To visit a cute tearoom, try one of these places, located in the town center.
Badgers Hall Tea Room is great for a wide selection of savory dishes and desserts. A tempting table of homemade cakes, crumbles, and scones just inside the door lures passersby into its delightful half-timbered dining room. Along with light lunches, they serve a generous afternoon tea—a tall and ritualistic tray of dainty sandwiches, pastries, and scones with tea—for half the London price (£25 for 2 people, daily 10:00-16:30, possibly later in summer, High Street).
Bantam Tea Rooms, near the Market Hall, is also a good value (£7 teas, £6 sandwiches, Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 10:30-17:00, slightly shorter hours Nov-March, High Street, tel. 01386/840-386).
Because the countryside around Chipping Campden is particularly hilly, it’s also especially scenic. This is a very rewarding area to poke around and discover little thatched villages.
Due west of Chipping Campden lies the famous and touristy town of Broadway. Just south of that, you’ll find my nominations for the cutest Cotswold villages. Like marshmallows in hot chocolate, Stanway, Stanton, and Snowshill nestle side by side, awaiting your arrival. (Note the Stanway House’s limited hours when planning your visit.)
This postcard-pretty town, a couple of miles west of Chipping Campden, is filled with inviting shops and fancy teahouses. With a “broad way” indeed running through its middle, it’s one of the bigger towns in the area. This means you’ll likely pass through at some point if you’re driving—but, since all the big bus tours seem to stop here, I usually give Broadway a miss. However, with a new road that allows traffic to skirt the town, Broadway has gotten cuter than ever. It has good bus connections with Chipping Campden (on bus #21).
Just outside Broadway, on the road to Chipping Campden, you might spot signs for the Broadway Tower, which looks like a turreted castle fortification stranded in the countryside without a castle in sight. This 55-foot-tall observation tower is a “folly”—a uniquely English term for a quirky, outlandish novelty erected as a giant lawn ornament by some aristocrat with more money than taste. If you’re also weighted down with too many pounds, you can relieve yourself of £4.50 to climb to its top for a view over the pastures (daily 10:30-17:00).
More of a humble crossroads community than a true village, sleepy Stanway is worth a visit mostly for its manor house, which offers an intriguing insight into the English aristocracy today. If you’re in the area when it’s open, it’s well worth visiting.
▲▲Stanway House—The Earl of Wemyss (pronounced “Weemz”), whose family tree charts relatives back to 1202, opens his melancholy home and grounds to visitors just two days a week in the summer. Walking through his house offers a unique glimpse into the lifestyles of England’s eccentric and fading nobility.
Cost and Hours: £7 ticket covers house and fountain, £9 ticket also includes watermill; both tickets include audioguide, narrated by the lordship himself; June-Aug Tue and Thu only 14:00-17:00, closed Sept-May, tel. 01386/584-469, www.stanwayfountain.co.uk.
Getting There: By car, leave the B-4077 at a statue of (the Christian) George slaying the dragon (of pagan superstition); you’ll round the corner and see the manor’s fine 17th-century Jacobean gatehouse. There’s no public transportation to Stanway.
Visiting the Manor: Start with the grounds, then head into the house itself.
The Earl recently restored “the tallest fountain in Britain” on the grounds—300 feet tall, gravity-powered, and quite impressive (fountain spurts for 30 minutes at 14:45 and 16:00 on opening days).
The bitchin’ Tithe Barn (near where you enter the grounds) dates to the 14th century, and predates the manor. It was originally where monks—in the days before money—would accept one-tenth of whatever the peasants produced. Peek inside: This is a great hall for village hoedowns. While the Tithe Barn is no longer used to greet motley peasants and collect their feudal “rents,” the lord still gets rent from his vast landholdings, and hosts community fêtes in his barn.
Stepping into the obviously very lived-in manor, you’re free to wander around pretty much as you like, but keep in mind that a family does live here. His lordship is often roaming about as well. The place feels like a time warp. Ask a staff member to demonstrate the spinning rent-collection table. In the great hall, marvel at the one-piece oak shuffleboard table and the 1780 Chippendale exercise chair (half an hour of bouncing on this was considered good for the liver).
The manor dogs have their own cutely painted “family tree,” but the Earl admits that his last dog, C. J., was “all character and no breeding.” Poke into the office. You can psychoanalyze the lord by the books that fill his library, the DVDs stacked in front of his bed (with the mink bedspread), and whatever’s next to his toilet.
The place has a story to tell. And so do the docents stationed in each room—modern-day peasants who, even without family trees, probably have relatives going back just as far in this village. Really. Talk to these people. Probe. Learn what you can about this side of England.
A working watermill, which produces flour from wheat grown on the estate, is about 100 yards from the house (requires higher-priced ticket to enter).
From Stanway to Stanton: These towns are separated by a row of oak trees and grazing land, with parallel waves echoing the furrows plowed by medieval farmers. Centuries ago, farmers were allotted long strips of land called “furlongs.” The idea was to dole out good and bad land equitably. (One square furlong equals an acre.) Over centuries of plowing these, furrows were formed. Let someone else drive, so you can hang out the window under a canopy of oaks, passing stone walls and sheep. Leaving Stanway on the road to Stanton, the first building you’ll see (on the left, just outside Stanway) is a thatched cricket pavilion overlooking the village cricket green. Dating only from 1930, it’s raised up (as medieval buildings were) on rodent-resistant staddle stones. Stanton is just ahead; follow the signs.
Pristine Cotswold charm cheers you as you head up the main street of the village of Stanton. Go on a photo safari for flower-bedecked doorways and windows. (A scant few buses serve Stanton, but they’re unpredictable—inquire locally.)
Stanton’s Church of St. Michael (with the pointy spire) betrays a pagan past. It’s safe to assume any church dedicated to St. Michael (the archangel who fought the devil) sits upon a sacred pagan site. Stanton is actually at the intersection of two ley lines (geographic lines along which many prehistoric sights are found). You’ll see St. Michael’s well-worn figure (and, above that, a sundial) over the door as you enter. Inside, above the capitals in the nave, find the pagan symbols for the sun and the moon. While the church probably dates back to the ninth century, today’s building is mostly from the 15th century, with 13th-century transepts. On the north transept (far side from entry), medieval frescoes show faintly through the 17th-century whitewash. (Once upon a time, these frescoes were considered too “papist.”) Imagine the church interior colorfully decorated throughout. Original medieval glass is behind the altar. The list of rectors (at the very back of the church, under the organ loft) goes back to 1269. Finger the grooves in the back pews, worn away by sheepdog leashes. (A man’s sheepdog accompanied him everywhere.)
Horse Riding: Anyone can enjoy the Cotswolds from the saddle. Jill Carenza’s Cotswolds Riding Centre, set just outside Stanton village, is in the most scenic corner of the region. The facility’s horses can take anyone from rank beginners to more experienced riders on a scenic “hack” through the village and into the high country (per-hour prices: £29/person for a group hack, £39/person for a semi-private hack, £49 for a private one-person hack; lessons, longer rides, rides for experts, and pub tours available; tel. 01386/584-250, www.cotswoldsriding.co.uk, info@cotswoldsriding.co.uk). From Stanton, head toward Broadway and watch for the riding center on your right after about a third of a mile.
Sleeping in Stanton: $$$ The Vine B&B has five rooms in a characteristic old Cotswolds house near the center of town. Owned by Jill from the riding center, it takes a backseat to the horses: It’s basically self-service, so there’s no greeting or check-in, and guests wander around wondering which room is theirs. Still, it’s the best option in Stanton and convenient if you want to ride all day (Ss-£55-75, twin Ds-£75, attic Db-£75, cottage with kitchen and 2 bedrooms-£150, most rooms with 4-poster beds, some stairs; for contact info, see listing for riding center, above).
Another nearly edible little bundle of cuteness, the village of Snowshill (SNOWS-hill) has a photogenic triangular square with a characteristic pub at its base.
▲Snowshill Manor—Dark and mysterious, this old palace is filled with the lifetime collection of Charles Paget Wade. It’s one big, musty celebration of craftsmanship, from finely carved spinning wheels to frightening samurai armor to tiny elaborate figurines carved by prisoners from the bones of meat served at dinner. Taking seriously his family motto, “Let Nothing Perish,” Wade dedicated his life and fortune to preserving things finely crafted. The house (whose management made me promise not to promote it as an eccentric collector’s pile of curiosities) really shows off Mr. Wade’s ability to recognize and acquire fine examples of craftsmanship. It’s all very...mmm...yaaa.
Cost and Hours: £9.70; manor house open July-Aug Wed-Mon 11:30-16:30, closed Tue; April-June and Sept-Oct Wed-Sun 12:00-17:00, closed Mon-Tue; closed Nov-March; gardens and ticket window open at 11:00, last entry one hour before closing, restaurant, tel. 01386/852-410, www.nationaltrust.org.uk/snowshillmanor.
Getting There: The manor overlooks the town square, but there’s no direct access from the square; instead, the entrance and parking lot are about a half-mile up the road toward Broadway. Park there and follow the long walkway through the garden to get to the house. A golf-cart-type shuttle to the house is available for those who need assistance.
Getting In: This popular sight strictly limits the number of entering visitors by doling out entry times. No reservations are possible; to get a slot, you must report to the ticket desk. It can be up to an hour’s wait—even more on busy days, especially weekends (when they can sell out for the day as early as 14:00). Tickets go on sale and the gardens open at 11:00. Therefore, a good strategy is to arrive close to the opening time, and if there’s a wait, enjoy the gardens (it’s a 10-minute walk to the manor). If you have more time to kill, head into the village of Snowshill itself (a half-mile away) to wander and explore—or get a time slot for later in the day, and return in the afternoon.
Cotswold Lavender—In 2000, farmer Charlie Byrd realized that tourists love lavender. He planted his farm with 250,000 plants, and now visitors come to wander among his 53 acres, which burst with gorgeous lavender blossoms from mid-June through late August. His fragrant fantasy peaks late each July. Lavender—so famous in France’s Provence—is not indigenous to this region, but it fits the climate and soil just fine. A free flier in the shop explains the variations of blooming flowers. Farmer Byrd produces lavender oil (an herbal product valued since ancient times for its healing, calming, and fragrant qualities) and sells it in a delightful shop, along with many other lavender-themed items. In the café, enjoy a pot of lavender-flavored tea with a lavender scone.
Cost and Hours: Free to enter shop and café, £2.50 to walk through the fields and the distillery; generally open June-Oct daily 10:00-17:00; April-May Wed-Sun 10:00-17:00, closed Mon-Tue; closed Nov-March; schedule changes annually depending on when the lavender blooms—call ahead or check their website, tel. 01386/854-821, www.cotswoldlavender.co.uk.
Getting There: It’s a half-mile out of Snowshill on the road toward Chipping Campden (easy parking). Entering Snowshill from the road to the manor (described above), take the left fork, then turn left again at the end of the village.
Sleeping near Snowshill: The pretty, one-pub village of Snowshill holds a gem of a B&B. $$$ Sheepscombe House B&B is a clean and pristine home on a working sheep farm. It’s immersed in the best of Cotswold scenery, with plenty of sheep in the nearby fields. Jacki and Tim Harrison rent two modern, spacious, and thoughtfully appointed rooms (Db-£100-120, Tb-£145-160, folding cots available, free Wi-Fi, just a third of a mile south of Snowshill—look for signs, tel. 01386/853-769, www.broadway-cotswolds.co.uk/sheepscombe.html, reservations@snowshill-broadway.co.uk). Tim, who’s happy to give you a local’s perspective on this area, also runs Tour the Cotswolds car service (see here).
Hidcote Manor Garden is just northeast of Chipping Campden, while Broad Campden, Blockley, and Bourton-on-the-Hill lie roughly between Chipping Campden and Stow (or Moreton)—handy if you’re connecting those towns.
This is less “on the way” between towns than the other sights in this section—but the grounds around this manor house are well worth a detour if you like gardens. Hidcote is where garden designers pioneered the notion of creating a series of outdoor “rooms,” each with a unique theme (e.g., maple room, red room, and so on) and separated by a yew-tree hedge. The garden’s design, inspired by the Arts and Crafts movement, is most formal near to the house and becomes more pastoral as it approaches the countryside. Follow your nose through a clever series of small gardens that lead delightfully from one to the next. Among the best in England, Hidcote Gardens are at their fragrant peak from May through August. But don’t expect much indoors—the manor house has only a few rooms open to the public.
Cost and Hours: £10; May-Aug daily 10:00-18:00; mid-March-April and Sept Sat-Wed 10:00-18:00, closed Thu-Fri; Oct Sat-Wed 10:00-17:00, closed Thu-Fri; Nov-Dec Sat-Sun 11:00-16:00, closed Mon-Fri; closed Jan-mid-March; last entry one hour before closing, café, restaurant, tel. 01386/438-333, www.nationaltrust.org.uk/hidcote.
Getting There: If you’re driving, it’s four miles northeast of Chipping Campden—roughly toward Ilmington. Both gardens are accessible by bus and a 45-minute country walk. Buses #21 and #22 take you to Mickleton (one stop past Chipping Campden), where a footpath begins next to the churchyard. Continuing more or less straight, the path leads uphill through sheep pastures and ends at Hidcote’s driveway.
Nearby: Gardening enthusiasts will want to also stop at Kiftsgate Court Garden, just across the road from Hidcote. While not as impressive, these private gardens are a fun contrast since they were designed at the same time and influenced by Hidcote (£7; May-Aug Sat-Wed 12:00-18:00, except Aug opens at 14:00, closed Thu-Fri; April and Sept Sun-Mon and Wed only 14:00-18:00; closed Oct-March; tel. 01386/438-777, www.kiftsgate.co.uk).
This trio of pleasant villages lines up along an off-the-beaten-path road between Chipping Campden and Moreton or Stow. Broad Campden, just on the outskirts of Chipping Campden, has some of the cutest thatched-roof houses I’ve seen. Blockley, nestled higher in the picturesque hills, is a popular setting for films. The same road continues on to Bourton-on-the-Hill (pictured), with fine views looking down into a valley and an excellent gastropub (Horse and Groom, described on here). All three of these towns are connected to Chipping Campden by bus #22 (#21 goes only to Bourton and Blockley), or you can walk (easy to Broad Campden, more challenging to the other two—see here).
Located 10 miles south of Chipping Campden, Stow-on-the-Wold—with a name that means “meeting place on the uplands”—is the highest point of the Cotswolds. Despite its crowds, it retains its charm, and it merits ▲▲. Most of the tourists are day-trippers, so nights—even in the peak of summer—are peaceful. Stow has no real sights other than the town itself, some good pubs, antiques stores, and cute shops draped seductively around a big town square. Visit the church, with its evocative old door guarded by ancient yew trees and the tombs of wool tycoons. A visit to Stow is not complete until you’ve locked your partner in the stocks on the village green.
Stow’s TI, an independent business called Go Stow, is on a little alley right between the main street and Market Square. Get the handy little £0.50 walking-tour brochure called Town Trail and the free monthly Cotswold Events guide (daily 9:00-17:00, possibly later in summer, until 16:00 in winter, 12 Talbot Court, tel. 01451/870-150, www.go-stow.co.uk).
Internet Access: Try the erratically open library in St. Edwards Hall on the main square (closed Sun, tel. 08452/305-420), or the youth hostel (open long hours daily).
Taxi: See “Getting Around the Cotswolds—By Taxi” (here).
Parking: Park anywhere on Market Square free for two hours, or overnight between 16:00 and 11:00 (free 18:00-9:00 plus any 2 hours—they note your license, so you can’t just move to another spot; £50 tickets for offenders). You can park for free on some streets farther from the center (such as Park Street and Well Lane) for an unlimited amount of time. A pay-and-display lot for longer stays is at the bottom of town (toward the Oddingtons), and a free long-stay lot 400 yards north of the town square at the Tesco supermarket (follow the signs).
(See “Stow-on-the-Wold” map, here)
This little four-stop walk covers about 500 yards and takes about 45 minutes.
Start at the Stocks on the Market Square. Imagine this village during the era when people were publicly ridiculed here as a punishment. Stow was born in pre-Roman times; it’s where three trade routes crossed at a high point in the region (altitude: 800 feet). This square was the site of an Iron Age fort, and then a Roman garrison town. This main square hosted an international fair starting in 1107, and people came from as far away as Italy for the wool fleeces. This grand square was a vast, grassy expanse. Picture it in the Middle Ages (before the buildings in the center were added): a public commons and grazing ground, paths worn through the grass, and no well. Until the late 1800s, Stow had no running water; women fetched water from the “Roman Well” a quarter-mile away.
With as many as 20,000 sheep sold in a single day, this square was a thriving scene. And Stow was filled with inns and pubs to keep everyone housed, fed, and watered. A thin skin of topsoil covers the Cotswold limestone, from which these buildings were made. The Stow Lodge (next to the church) lies a little lower than the church; the lodge sits on the spot where locals quarried stones for the church. That building, originally the rectory, is now a hotel. The church (where we’ll end this little walk) is made of Cotswold stone, and marks the summit of the hill upon which the town was built. The stocks are a great photo op (lock dad up for a great family Christmas card).
• Walk past the youth hostel and The White Hart Inn to the market, and cross to the other part of the square. Notice how locals seem to be a part of a tight-knit little community.
For 500 years, the Market Cross stood in the market reminding all Christian merchants to “trade fairly under the sight of God.” Notice the stubs of the iron fence in the concrete base—a reminder of how countless wrought-iron fences were cut down and given to the government to be melted down during World War II. (Recently, it’s been disclosed that all that iron ended up in junk heaps—frantic patriotism just wasted.) The plaque on the cross honors the Lord of the Manor, who donated money back to his tenants, allowing the town to finally finance running water in 1878.
Scan the square for a tipsy shop that locals call the “wonky house” (next to The Kings Arms). Because it lists (tilts) so severely, it’s a listed building—the facade is protected (but the interior is modern and level). The Kings Arms, with its great gables and scary chimney, was once where travelers parked their horses before spending the night. In the 1600s, this was considered the premium “posting house” between London and Birmingham. Today, The Kings Arms cooks up pub grub and rents rooms upstairs.
During the English Civil War, which pitted Parliamentarians against Royalists, Stow-on-the-Wold remained staunchly loyal to the king. (Charles I is said to have eaten at The Kings Arms before a great battle.) Because of its allegiance, the town has an abundance of pubs with royal names (King’s This and Queen’s That).
The stately building in the center of the square with the wooden steeple is St. Edwards Hall. Back in the 1870s, a bank couldn’t locate the owner of an account containing a small fortune, so it donated the funds to the town to build this civic center. It serves as a city hall, library, and meeting place. When it’s open for some local event, you can wander around upstairs to see the largest collection of Civil War portrait paintings in England.
• Walk past The Kings Arms down Digbeth Street to the little triangular park located in front of the Methodist Church and across from the Royalist Hotel. This hotel—along with about 20 others—claims to be the oldest in England, dating from 947.
Just beyond the small grassy triangle with benches was the place where locals gathered for bloody cockfights and bearbaiting (watching packs of hungry dogs tear at bears). Today this is where—twice a year, in May and October—the Stow Horse Fair attracts nomadic Roma (Gypsies) and Irish Travellers from far and wide. They congregate down the street on the Maugersbury Road. Locals paint a colorful picture of the Roma, Travellers, and horses inundating the town. The young women dress up because the fair also functions as a marriage market.
• Hook right and hike up the wide street.
As you head up Sheep Street, you’ll pass a boutique-filled former brewery yard (on the left). Notice its fancy street-front office, with a striking flint facade. Sheep Street was originally not a street, but a staging place for medieval sheep markets. The sheep would be gathered here, then paraded into the Market Square down narrow alleys—just wide enough for a single file of sheep to walk down, making it easier to count them. You’ll see several of these so-called “fleece alleys” as you walk up the street.
• Just past a fine antique bookstore (Wychwood Books), turn right onto Church Street, which leads past the best coffee shop in town (The Coffee House), and find the church.
Before entering the church, circle it. On the back side, a door is flanked by two ancient yew trees. While many view it as the Christian “Behold, I stand at the door and knock” door, J. R. R. Tolkien fans see something quite different. Tolkien hiked the Cotswolds, and had a passion for sketching evocative trees such as this. Lord of the Rings enthusiasts are convinced this must be the inspiration for the door into Moria.
While the church (open daily—apart from services—9:00-18:00) dates from Saxon times, today’s structure is from the 15th century. Its history is played up in leaflets and plaques just inside the door. The floor is paved with the tombs of big shots who made their money from wool and are still boastful in death. (Find the tombs crowned with the bales of wool.) Most of the windows are traditional Victorian designs (19th-century), but the two sets high up in the clerestory are from the dreamier Pre-Raphaelite school.
On the right wall as you approach the altar, a monument remembers the many boys from this small town who were lost in World War I (50 out of a population of 2,000). There were far fewer in World War II. The biscuit-shaped plaque remembers an admiral from Stow who lost four sons defending the realm. It’s sliced from an ancient fluted column (which locals believe is from Ephesus, Turkey).
During the English Civil War (1615), the church was ransacked, and more than 1,000 soldiers were imprisoned here. The tombstone in front of the altar remembers the Royalist Captain Francis Keyt. His long hair, lace, and sash indicate he was a “cavalier,” and true-blue to the king (Cromwellians were called “round heads”—named for their short hair). Study the crude provincial art—childlike skulls and (in the upper corners) symbols of his service to the king (armor, weapons).
Finally, don’t miss the kneelers tucked in the pews. These are made by a committed band of women known as “the Kneeler Group.” They meet most Tuesday mornings (except sometimes in summer) at 10:30 in the Church Room to needlepoint, sip coffee, and enjoy a good chat. (The vicar assured me that any tourist wanting to join them would be more than welcome. The help would be appreciated and the company would be excellent.)
Stow is made-to-order for day hikes. The most popular is the downhill, four-mile stroll to Lower Slaughter, then on to Bourton-on-the-Water. It’s a two-hour walk if you don’t stop. Allow about three hours if you dawdle. From Bourton-on-the-Water, a bus can bring you back to Stow. Ask at a B&B, hotel, or TI for a loaner map for this hike. Note that these three towns are described in more detail starting on here.
To reach the trail, find the cemetery (head down Church Street away from the square, turn left on Sheep Street, right into Fleece Alley, right onto Back Walls, and left onto Spring Gardens). Walk through the cemetery and down the footpath that runs alongside the big A-429 road for about 200 yards, then cross the road and catch the well-marked trail. Follow it for a delightful hour across farms, over romantic gates, and past Gainsborough-painting vistas. You’ll enjoy an intimate backyard look at local farm life. Although it seems like you might lose the trail, tiny signs keep you on target. Finally, passing a cricket pitch, you reach Lower Slaughter, with its fine church and a mill creek leading up to its mill.
Hiking from Lower Slaughter up to Upper Slaughter is a worthwhile 1-mile, 15-minute detour each way, if you have the time and energy.
From Lower Slaughter, it’s a less-scenic 15-minute walk to the bigger town of Bourton-on-the-Water. Leave Lower Slaughter along its mill creek, then follow a bridle path back to the A-429 and into Bourton. Walking into Bourton, you’ll pass the bus stop for the ride back to Stow (bus #801 departs roughly hourly, none on Sun except May-Aug when it runs about 2/day, 10-minute ride).
(£1 = about $1.60, country code: 44, area code: 01451)
$$$ The Stow Lodge Hotel fills the historic church rectory with lots of old English charm. Facing the town square, with its own sprawling and peaceful garden, this lavish old place offers 21 large, thoughtfully appointed rooms with soft beds, stately public spaces, and a cushy-chair lounge (slippery rates but generally Db-£130, £10-15 extra on Sat, cheaper Oct-April, closed Jan, pay Internet access and free Wi-Fi, free off-street parking, The Square, tel. 01451/830-485, fax 01451/831-671, www.stowlodge.co.uk, enquiries@stowlodge.com, helpful Hartley family).
$$$ The Kings Arms, with 10 rooms above a pub, manages to keep its historic Cotswolds character while still feeling fresh and modern in all the right ways (standard Db-£100, superior Db-£120, steep stairs, three “cottages” out back, free Wi-Fi, free off-street parking, Market Square, tel. 01451/830-364, www.kingsarmsstow.co.uk, info@kingsarmsstow.co.uk, Lucinda and Richard).
$$ The Old Stocks Hotel, facing the town square, is a good value, even though the building itself is classier than its 18 big, simply furnished rooms. It’s friendly and family-run, yet professional as can be. With man-killer beams and all beds equipped with footboards, it’s a challenge for anyone over six feet tall (Sb-£45, standard Db-£90, deluxe Db-£100, refurbished “superior” Db-£110, Tb-£120, each room £10 extra on Sat, ground-floor room, free Wi-Fi in common areas, attached bar and restaurant, garden patio, free off-street parking, The Square, tel. 01451/830-666, fax 01451/870-014, www.oldstockshotel.co.uk, info@oldstockshotel.co.uk, Allen family).
$$ Number Nine has three large, bright, recently refurbished, and tastefully decorated rooms. This 200-year-old home comes with watch-your-head beamed ceilings and beautiful old wooden doors (Sb-£45-55, Db-£65-75, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, 9 Park Street, tel. 01451/870-333, mobile 07779-006-539, www.number-nine.info, enquiries@number-nine.info, James and Carol Brown and their dog Snoop).
$$ Cross Keys Cottage offers four smallish but smartly updated rooms—some bright and floral, others classy white—with modern bathrooms. Kindly Margaret and Roger Welton take care of their guests in this 350-year-old beamed cottage (Sb-£55-65, Db-£65-80, 5 percent Rick Steves discount if you book direct, free Wi-Fi, Park Street, tel. & fax 01451/831-128, rogxmag@hotmail.com).
$ The Pound is the quaint, 500-year-old, slanty, cozy, and low-beamed home of Patricia Whitehead. She offers two bright, inviting, twin-bedded rooms and a classic old fireplace lounge (D-£55-65, T-£95, cash only, downtown on Sheep Street, tel. & fax 01451/830-229, patwhitehead1@live.co.uk).
$ Hostel: The Stow-on-the-Wold Youth Hostel, on Stow’s main square, is the only hostel in the Cotswolds, with 48 beds in nine rooms. It has a friendly atmosphere and a members’ kitchen (dorm bed-£18, £3 less for members, includes sheets, some family rooms with private bathrooms, evening meals, pay Internet access and Wi-Fi, reserve long in advance—especially family rooms, tel. 01451/830-497, fax 01451/870-102, www.yha.org.uk, stow@yha.org.uk, manager Don).
$$ Little Broom B&B hides out in the neighboring hamlet of Maugersbury, which enjoys the peace Stow once had. It rents three cozy rooms that share a fine garden and a pool (S-£30, Sb-£45—65, D-£55, Db-£60—75, apartment Db-£75 for two people plus £15 for each extra person, cash only, pay Wi-Fi, tel. & fax 01451/830-510, www.cotswolds.info/webpage/little-broom.htm, brendarussell1@hotmail.co.uk). Brenda has racehorses, and her greenhouse keeps the pool warm throughout the summer (guests welcome). It’s an easy eight-minute walk from Stow: Head east on Park Street and stay right toward Maugersbury. Turn right into Chapel Street and take the first right uphill to the B&B.
While Stow has several good dining options, consider venturing out of town for a meal. You can walk to the pub in nearby Broadwell, or—better yet—drive to one of the many enticing gastropubs in the surrounding villages (see sidebar on here).
These places are all within a five-minute walk of each other, either on the main square or downhill on Queen and Park streets. For dessert, consider munching a treat or fruit (there’s plenty for sale at the late-hours grocery on the square) under the trees on the square’s benches and watching the sky darken, the lamps come on, and visitors having their photo fun in the stocks.
(See “Stow-on-the-Wold” map, here)
The Stow Lodge is the choice of the town’s proper ladies. There are two parts: The formal but friendly bar serves fine pub grub (hearty £9-12 lunches and dinners, daily 12:00-14:00 & 19:00-20:30). The restaurant serves a popular £26 three-course dinner (nightly, veggie options, good wines, just off main square, tel. 01451/830-485, Val). On a sunny day, the pub serves lunch in the well-manicured garden, where you’ll feel quite aristocratic.
The Old Stocks Hotel Restaurant, which might at first glance seem like a tired and big hotel dining room, is actually a classy place to dine. With attentive service and an interesting menu, they provide tasty and well-presented food. It’s good, basic pub grub at pub prices served in a fancy dining room with views of the square. In good weather, the garden out back is a hit (£8-9 lunches, £10-13 dinners, dinner served Sun-Thu 18:30-20:30, Fri-Sat 18:30-21:00, reservations recommended on weekends, tel. 01451/830-666).
The Queen’s Head faces the Market Square, next to the Stow Lodge. With a classic pub vibe, it’s a great place to bring your dog and watch the eccentrics while you eat pub grub and drink the local Cotswold brew, Donnington Ale (£6-7 sandwiches, £8-10 lunches, £9-13 dinners, beer garden out back, daily 12:00-14:30 & 18:30-21:00, tel. 01451/830-563, John).
The Talbot has a more stylish and contemporary feel, with creative, modern dishes (£6-8 lunches, £10-14 dinners). They serve drinks until midnight or later (lunch served Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30, Sun 12:30-15:30; dinner served Sun-Thu 18:30-21:00, Fri-Sat 18:30-21:45). With couches to cuddle up on and free Wi-Fi, it works hard to be a popular hangout. On Friday and Saturday evenings after 22:00, they crank up the music, making it the liveliest place in town (The Square, tel. 01451/870-934).
The Old Butchers feels like a breath of fresh air in staid old Stow. Trendy, with good food and slow, snooty service, it dishes up classic English cuisine with a French foodie flair and a passion for meat (£15-20 main dishes; lunch served daily 12:00-14:30; dinner served Mon-Sat 18:00-21:30, Sun 19:00-21:00; next to the Cross Keys Cottage on Park Street, reservations likely necessary, tel. 01451/831-700).
(See “Stow-on-the-Wold” map, here)
Head to the grassy triangle where Digbeth hits Sheep Street; there you’ll find take-out fish-and-chips, Chinese, and Indian food. You can picnic at the triangle, or on the benches by the stocks on Market Street.
Greedy’s Fish and Chips, on Park Street, is a favorite with locals for takeout. There’s no seating, but they do have benches in front (£4.50 fish-and-chips, Mon 12:00-14:00 & 16:30-20:30, Tue-Sat 12:00-14:00 & 16:30-21:00, closed Sun, tel. 01451/870-821).
Jade Garden Chinese Take-Away is appreciated by locals who don’t want to cook (£3-6 dishes, Wed-Mon 17:00-23:00, closed Tue, Park Street, tel. 01451/870-288).
The Prince of India offers good Indian food to take out or eat in (£7-8 main dishes, nightly 18:00-23:30, 5 Park Street, tel. 01451/830-099).
The Coffee House provides a nice break from the horses-and-hounds traditional cuisine found elsewhere. You can get your food to go, or eat here—there’s pleasant garden seating out back (£5 soups, £9-10 salads and sandwiches, good coffee; April-Sept Mon 9:00-17:00, Tue-Sat 9:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-16:30; off-season Mon-Sat 9:30-17:00, Sun 10:00-16:00; Church Street, tel. 01451/870-802).
The Youth Hostel Café (facing the Market Square) serves drinks and meals all day and is family-friendly, with great prices and tables in the backyard garden (£5 breakfast, £7-8 dinner, tel. 01451/830-497).
Near Stow
Near Moreton-in-Marsh, in Bourton-on-the-Hill
Even Cheaper: Small grocery stores face the main square (the Co-op is open Mon-Sat 7:00-22:00, Sun 8:00-22:00; next to The Kings Arms), and a big Tesco supermarket is 400 yards north of town.
From Stow, consider taking a half-hour countryside walk to the village of Broadwell, where you’ll find a traditional old pub serving good basic grub in a convivial atmosphere. The Fox Inn serves pub dinners and draws traditional ales—including the local Donnington ales (£8-10 meals, food served Mon-Sat 11:30-14:00 & 18:30-21:00, Sun 12:00-14:00 only, outdoor tables in garden out back, on the village green, tel. 01451/870-909, Mike and Carol).
Getting There: If you walk briskly, it’s just 20 minutes downhill from Stow. While the walk is not particularly scenic (it’s one-third paved lane, and the rest on an arrow-straight bridle path), it is peaceful, and the exercise is a nice way to start and finish your meal. The trail is poorly marked, but it’s hard to get lost: Leave Stow at Parson’s Corner, continue downhill, pass the town well, follow the bridle path straight until you hit the next road, then turn right at the road and walk downhill into the village of Broadwell. You can often hitch a ride with someone from the pub back to Stow after you eat.
These sights are all south of Stow: Some are within walking distance (the Slaughters and Bourton-on-the-Water), and one is 20 miles away (Cirencester). The Slaughters and Bourton are tied together by the countryside walk described on here.
“Slaughter” has nothing to do with lamb chops. It comes from the sloe tree (the one used to make sloe gin).
Lower Slaughter is a classic village, with ducks, a charming little church, a working water mill, and usually an artist busy at her easel somewhere. The Old Mill Museum is a folksy ensemble with a tiny museum, shop, and teahouse complete with a delightful terrace overlooking the mill pond, enthusiastically run by Gerald and his daughter Laura, who just can’t resist giving generous tastes of their homemade ice cream (tel. 01451/820-052, www.oldmill-lowerslaughter.com). Just behind the Old Mill, two kissing gates lead to the path that goes to nearby Upper Slaughter (a 15-minute walk or 2-minute drive away). And if you follow the mill creek downstream, a bridle path leads to Bourton-on-the-Water (described next).
In Upper Slaughter, walk through the yew trees (sacred in pagan days) down a lane through the raised graveyard (a buildup of centuries of graves) to the peaceful church. In the back of the fine graveyard, the statue of a wistful woman looks over the tomb of an 18th-century rector (sculpted by his son).
Getting There: Though the stop is not listed on schedules, you should be able to reach these towns on bus #801 (from Moreton or Stow) by requesting the “Slaughter Pike” stop (along the main road, near the villages). Confirm with the driver before getting on. If driving, the small roads from Upper Slaughter to Ford and Kineton (and the Cotswold Farm Park, described later) are some of England’s most scenic. Roll your window down and joyride slowly.
I can’t figure out whether they call this “the Venice of the Cotswolds” because of its quaint canals or its miserable crowds. Either way, it’s very pretty. This town—four miles south of Stow and a mile from Lower Slaughter—gets overrun by midday and weekend hordes. Surrounding Bourton’s green are sidewalks jammed with disoriented tourists wearing nametags. If you can avoid them, it’s worth a drive-through and maybe a short stop. While it can be mobbed with tour groups during the day, it’s pleasantly empty in the early evening and after dark.
Getting There: It’s conveniently connected to Stow and Moreton by bus #801.
Parking: Finding a spot here is predictably tough. Even during the busy business day, rather than park in the pay-and-display parking lot a five-minute walk from the center, drive right into town and wait for a spot on High Street just past the village green (where the road swings left, turn right to go down High Street; there’s a long row of free two-hour spots in front of the Edinburgh Woolen Mills Shop, on the right).
Tourist Information: The TI is tucked across the stream a short block off the main drag, on Victoria Street, behind Village Hall (April-Oct Mon-Fri 9:30-17:00, Sat 9:30-17:30, closed Sun, closes one hour earlier Nov-March, tel. 01451/820-211, www.bourtoninfo.com).
Sights: Bourton’s attractions are tacky tourist traps, but the three listed below might be worth considering. All are on High Street in the town center. In addition to these, families also enjoy Bourton’s kid-perfect leisure center (big pool and sauna, 5-minute walk from town center off Station Road, open daily, call for public hours, tel. 01451/824-024).
▲Motor Museum—Lovingly presented, this good, jumbled museum shows off a lifetime’s accumulation of vintage cars, old lacquered signs, threadbare toys, and prewar memorabilia. If you appreciate old cars, this is nirvana. Wander the car-and-driver displays, from the automobile’s early days to the stylish James Bond era. Don’t miss the back door (marked Village Life Exhibition), which leads to old carriage houses filled with even more cars. Talk to an elderly Brit who’s touring the place for some personal memories.
Cost and Hours: £4.50, mid-Feb-early Dec daily 10:00-18:00, closed off-season, in the mill facing the town center, tel. 01451/821-255, www.cotswold-motor-museum.com.
Model Railway Exhibition—This exhibit of three model railway layouts is impressive only to train buffs.
Cost and Hours: £2.50, June-Aug daily 11:00-17:30; Sept-Dec and Feb-May Sat-Sun 11:00-17:00, closed Mon-Fri; closed Jan; located in the back of a hobby shop, tel. 01451/820-686, www.bourtonmodelrailway.co.uk.
Model Village—This light but fun display re-creates the town on a 1:9 scale in a tiny outdoor park, and has an attached room full of tiny models showing off various bits of British domestic life.
Cost and Hours: £3.60 for the park, £1 more for the model room; daily 10:00-18:00, until 16:00 in winter, last entry 30 minutes before closing; tel. 01451/820-467.
Walk to the Slaughters—From Bourton-on-the-Water, it’s about a 30-minute walk (or a two-minute drive) to Upper and Lower Slaughter (described previously); taken together, they make for an easy two-hour round-trip walk from Bourton. (You could also walk from Stow through the Slaughters to Bourton—hike described on here.)
Here’s a delight for young and old alike. This park is the private venture of the Henson family, who are passionate about preserving rare and endangered breeds of local animals. While it feels like a kids’ zone (with all the family-friendly facilities you can imagine), it’s actually a fascinating chance for anyone to get up close and (very) personal with piles of mostly cute animals, including the sheep that made this region famous—the big and woolly Cotswold Lion. The “listening posts” deliver audio information on each rare breed.
A busy schedule of demonstrations gives you a look at local farm life—check the events board as you enter for times for the milking, “farm safari,” shearing, and well-done “sheep show.” Join the included 20-minute tractor ride, with recorded narration by the founder’s son, Adam Henson, filled with the family passion for the farm’s mission. Buy a bag of seed (£0.50) upon arrival, or have your map eaten by munchy goats as I did. Tykes love the little tractor rides, maze, and zip line, but the “touch barn” is where it’s at for little kids.
Cost and Hours: £8, kids-£6.50, family ticket for 2 adults and 2 kids-£26, mid-March-Oct daily 10:30-17:00, closed off-season, last entry 30 minutes before closing, good guidebook (small fee), decent cafeteria, tel. 01451/850-307, www.cotswoldfarmpark.co.uk.
Getting There: It’s well-signposted about halfway between Stow and Stanway (15 minutes from either) just off Tewkesbury Road (B-4077, toward Ford from Stow). A visit here makes sense if you’re traveling from Stow to Chipping Campden.
One of the “untouched and untouristed” Cotswold villages, Northleach is worth a short stop. The town’s impressive main square and church attest to its position as a major wool center in the Middle Ages. Park in the square called The Green or the adjoining Market Place. The town has no TI, but you can pick up a free town map and visitor guide at Keith Harding’s World of Mechanical Music (described next) or at the post office on the Market Place (Mon-Fri 9:00-13:00 & 14:00-17:30, Sat 9:00-13:00, closed Sun) and at other nearby shops. Information: www.northleach.gov.uk.
Getting There: Northleach is nine miles south of Stow, down the A-429. Bus #801 connects it to Stow and Moreton.
▲Keith Harding’s World of Mechanical Music—In 1962, Keith Harding, tired of giving ad-lib “living room tours,” opened this delightful little one-room place. It offers a unique opportunity to listen to 300 years of amazing self-playing musical instruments. It’s run by people who are passionate about the restoration work they do on these musical marvels. The curators delight in demonstrating about 20 of the museum’s machines with each hour-long tour. You’ll hear Victorian music boxes and the earliest polyphones (record players) playing cylinders and then discs—all from an age when music was made mechanically, without the help of electricity. The admission fee includes an essential hour-long tour.
Cost and Hours: £8, daily 10:00-17:00, last entry at 16:00, tours go constantly—join one in progress, High Street, Northleach, tel. 01451/860-181, www.mechanicalmusic.co.uk.
Church of Saints Peter and Paul—This fine Perpendicular Gothic church has been called the “cathedral of the Cotswolds.” It’s one of the Cotswolds’ finest two “wool” churches (along with Chipping Campden’s), paid for by 15th-century wool tycoons. Find the oldest tombstone. The brass plaques on the floor memorialize big shots, showing sheep and sacks of wool at their long-dead feet, and inscriptions mixing Latin and the old English.
Six miles northeast of Cirencester, this village is a favorite with British picnickers fond of strolling and fishing. Bibury (BYE-bree) offers some relaxing sights, including a row of very old weavers’ cottages, a trout farm, a stream teeming with fat fish and proud ducks, and a church surrounded by rosebushes, each tended by a volunteer of the parish. A protected wetlands area on the far side of the stream hosts newts and water voles. Walk up the main street, then turn right along the old weavers’ Arlington Row and back on the far side of the marsh, peeking into the rushes for wildlife.
For a closer look at the fish, cross the little bridge to the 15-acre Trout Farm, where you can feed them—or catch your own (£4 to walk the grounds, fish food-£0.50; daily March-Oct 8:00-18:00, Nov-Feb 8:00-16:00; catch-your-own only available weekends and holidays March-Oct 10:00-17:00, no fishing in winter, tel. 01285/740-215, www.biburytroutfarm.co.uk).
Drivers will enjoy exploring the scenic Coln Valley from the A-429 to Bibury through the enigmatic villages of Coln St. Dennis, Coln Rogers, Coln Powell, and Winson.
Getting There: Bus #801 goes from Moreton-in-Marsh and Stow to Northleach. From there, you can transfer to bus #855 to reach Bibury.
Sleeping in Bibury: If you’d like to spend the night in tiny Bibury, consider $$ The William Morris B&B, named for the 19th-century designer and writer (small Db-£85, big Db-£95, cash only, 2 rooms, tearoom, 200 yards from the bridge toward the church at 11 The Street, tel. 01285/740-555, www.thewilliammorris.com, info@thewilliammorris.com).
Almost 2,000 years ago, Cirencester (SIGH-ren-ses-ter) was the ancient Roman city of Corinium. It’s 20 miles from Stow down the A-429, which was called Fosse Way in Roman times.
Tourist Information: The TI, in the shop at the Corinium Museum (described below), answers questions and sells a £0.50 town map and a £1.20 town walking-tour brochure (same hours as museum, tel. 01285/654-180).
Getting There: If traveling by bus, take #801 from Moreton-in-Marsh or Stow to Northleach, then transfer to bus #855 to Cirencester. Drivers follow Town Centre signs and try to find parking right on the market square; if it’s parked up, retreat to the Waterloo pay-and-display lot (a five-minute walk away).
Sights: In Cirencester, stop by the impressive Corinium Museum to find out why they say, “If you scratch Gloucestershire, you’ll find Rome.” The museum chronologically displays well-explained artifacts from the town’s rich history, with a focus on Roman times—when Corinium was the second-biggest city in the British Isles (after Londinium). You’ll see column capitals and fine mosaics, before moving on to the Anglo-Saxon and Middle Ages exhibits (£5; April-Oct Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 14:00-17:00; Nov-March Mon-Sat 10:00-16:00, Sun 14:00-16:00; Park Street, tel. 01285/655-611, www.coriniummuseum.cotswold.gov.uk).
Cirencester’s church is the largest of the Cotswolds “wool” churches. The cutesy New Brewery Arts crafts center entertains visitors with traditional weaving and potting, workshops, an interesting gallery, and a good coffee shop. Monday and Friday are general-market days, Friday features an antiques market, and a crafts market is held on most Saturdays.
This workaday town—worth ▲—is like Stow or Chipping Campden without the touristy sugar. Rather than gift and antiques shops, you’ll find streets lined with real shops: ironmongers selling cottage nameplates and carpet shops strewn with the remarkable patterns that decorate B&B floors. A traditional market of 100-plus stalls fills High Street each Tuesday, as it has for the last 400 years (8:00-15:30, handicrafts, farm produce, clothing, books, and people-watching; best if you go early). The Cotswolds has an economy aside from tourism, and you’ll feel it here.
Moreton has a tiny, sleepy train station two blocks from High Street, lots of bus connections, and the best TI in the region. The TI offers a room-booking service, pay Internet access, and discounted tickets for major sights (such as Blenheim Palace and Warwick Castle). Peruse the racks of fliers, confirm rail and bus schedules, and consider the £0.50 Town Trail self-guided walking tour leaflet (Mon 8:45-16:00, Tue-Thu 8:45-17:15, Fri 8:45-16:45, Sat 10:00-13:00—or until 12:30 in winter, closed Sun, good public WC, tel. 01608/650-881).
Internet Access: It’s available for £0.50/15 minutes at the TI and free at the erratically open library (down High Street where it becomes Stow Road, tel. 0845-230-5420).
Baggage Storage: While there is no formal baggage storage in town, the Black Bear Inn (next to the TI) might let you leave bags there—especially if you buy a drink. Or you can pay £1/bag at the launderette (described next).
Laundry: The handy launderette is a block in front of the train station on New Road (daily 7:00-19:00, last wash at 18:00, £4-5 self-service wash, £2-3 self-service dry, or drop off Mon-Fri 8:00-11:00 for £3 extra and same-day service—pick up by 17:00, tel. 01608/650-888).
Bike Rental, Taxis, and Car Rental: See “Getting Around the Cotswolds” on here.
Parking: It’s easy—anywhere on High Street is fine any time, as long as you want, for free (though there’s a 2-hour limit for parking in the small lot in the middle of the street). On Tuesdays, when the market makes parking tricky, you can park at the Budgens supermarket for £5—refundable if you spend at least £5 in the store.
Hikes and Walks from Moreton-in-Marsh: As its name implies, Moreton-in-Marsh sits on a flat, boggy landscape, making it a bit less appealing for hikes; I’d bus to Chipping Campden or to Stow, both described earlier, for a better hike (this is easy, since Moreton is a transit hub). If you do have just a bit of time to kill in Moreton, consider taking a fun and easy walk a mile out to the arboretum and falconry center in Batsford (described later).
(£1 = about $1.60, country code: 44, area code: 01608)
$$$ Manor House Hotel is Moreton’s big old hotel, dating from 1545 but sporting such modern amenities as toilets and electricity. Its 35 classy-for-the-Cotswolds rooms and its garden invite relaxation (Sb-£120, standard Db-£158, superior Db-£178, four-poster Db-£200, family suite-£220, £40 more for Sat night, rates are soft—often a bit less, includes breakfast, elevator, free Wi-Fi, log fire in winter, attached restaurants, free parking, on far end of High Street away from train station, tel. 01608/650-501, fax 01608/651-481, www.cotswold-inns-hotels.co.uk, info@manorhousehotel.info).
$$ The Swan Inn is wonderfully perched on the main drag, with five en suite rooms and two more that share a bath. Though the halls look a bit worn and you enter through a bar/restaurant, the recently renovated rooms themselves are classy and the bathrooms modern (Sb-£60, D-£60-80, standard Db-£70-110, four-poster Db-£90-130, free Wi-Fi, free parking, restaurant gives guests 10 percent discount, High Street, tel. 01608/650-711, www.swanmoreton.co.uk, info@swanmoreton.co.uk, Sara and Terry Todd and their two sons). Terry can pick up guests from the train station and is willing to drive carless guests to various destinations within 20 miles.
$ Treetops B&B is plush, with seven spacious, attractive rooms, a sun lounge, and a three-quarter-acre backyard. Liz and Ben (the family dog) will make you feel right at home—if you meet the two-night minimum on weekends (large Db-£65, gigantic Db-£72, two wheelchair-accessible ground-floor rooms have patios, free Wi-Fi, set far back from the busy road, London Road, tel. & fax 01608/651-036, www.treetopscotswolds.co.uk, treetops1@talk21.com, Liz and Brian Dean). It’s an eight-minute walk from town and the railway station (exit station, keep left, go left on bridge over train tracks, look for sign, then long driveway).
$ Warwick House, just down the road from Treetops, is where enterprising “half-American” Charlie Grant rents three rooms in a contemporary, casual, slightly rough-around-the-edges house. It’s on a busy road, but the windows keep out most noise. Charlie will do your laundry if you stay three or more nights (Sb-£40, Db-£64, Tb-£80, cash only, no kids under age 12, healthy breakfast option, free Wi-Fi, free parking, will pick up from train station, London Road, tel. 01608/650-773, www.snoozeandsizzle.com, charlie@warwickhousebnb.demon.co.uk).
(See “Moreton-in-Marsh” map, here)
A stroll up and down High Street lets you survey your small-town options.
The Marshmallow is relatively upscale but affordable, with a menu that includes traditional English dishes as well as lasagna and salads (£9-11 main dishes, £13 high tea, Mon 8:30-19:00, Tue 10:00-19:00, Wed-Sat 8:30-20:00, Sun 10:30-19:00, closed for dinner Jan-Feb, reservations smart, shady back garden for summer dining, tel. 01608/651-536).
The Black Bear Inn offers traditional English food. As you enter, choose between the dining room on the left or the pub on the right (£7-10 meals and daily specials, restaurant open daily 12:00-14:00 & 18:30-21:00, pub open daily 10:30-23:30, tel. 01608/652-992).
Hassan Balti, with tasty Bangladeshi food, is a fine value for sit-down or takeout (£7-12 meals, daily 12:00-14:00 & 17:30-23:30, High Street, tel. 01608/650-798).
Tilly’s Tea House serves fresh soups, salads, sandwiches, and pastries for lunch in a cheerful spot on High Street across from the TI (£5-7 light meals, good cream tea-£4.50, Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-16:00, tel. 01608/650-000).
Ask, a chain restaurant across the street, has decent pastas, pizzas, and salads, and a breezy, family-friendly atmosphere (£8-11 pizzas, daily 12:00-22:00, takeout available, tel. 01608/651-119).
Mermaid fish shop is popular for its take-out fish and tasty selection of traditional savory pies (£5 fish-and-chips, £2 pies, Mon-Sat 11:30-14:00 & 17:00-22:30, closed Sun, tel. 01608/651-391).
Picnic: There’s a small Co-op grocery on High Street in the town center (Mon-Sat 7:00-20:00, Sun 8:00-20:00), and a Tesco Express two doors down (Mon-Fri 6:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 7:00-23:00). The big Budgens supermarket is indeed super (Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-16:00, far end of High Street). You can picnic across the busy street, in pleasant Victoria Park (with a playground for kids).
Nearby: The excellent Horse and Groom gastropub in Bourton-on-the-Hill is a quick drive or uphill two-mile walk away (see here).
Moreton, the only Cotswolds town with a train station, is also the best base for exploring the region by bus (see “Getting Around the Cotswolds,” here).
From Moreton by Train to: London’s Paddington Station (one-way-£30-32, every 1-2 hours, 2 hours), Bath (hourly, 2.5-3 hours, 1-2 transfers), Oxford (every 1-2 hours, 40 minutes), Ironbridge Gorge (hourly, 3 hours, 2 transfers; arrive Telford, then catch bus or cab 7 miles to Ironbridge Gorge—see here), Stratford-upon-Avon (almost hourly, 2.5-3 hours, 2-3 transfers, slow and expensive, better by bus). Train info: tel. 0845-748-4950, www.nationalrail.co.uk.
From Moreton by Bus to: Stratford-upon-Avon (#21 and #22 go via Chipping Campden: Mon-Sat 9/day, none on Sun, 1-1.25 hours; #23 goes via Shipston-on-Stour: Mon-Sat 2/day, none on Sun, 1 hour; Johnsons Coaches, tel. 01564/797-000, www.johnsonscoaches.co.uk).
This stately home, located about five miles southeast of Moreton-in-Marsh, was actually lived in by the same family from 1607 until 1991. It offers a rare peek into a Jacobean gentry house. (Jacobean, which comes from the Latin for “James,” indicates the style from the time of King James I—the early 1600s.) Built, like most Cotswold palaces, with wool money, it gradually declined with the fortunes of its aristocratic family until, according to the last lady of the house, it was “held together by cobwebs.” It came to the National Trust on condition that they would maintain its musty Jacobean ambience. Wander on creaky floorboards, many of them original, and chat with volunteer guides stationed in each room. It’s an uppity place that doesn’t encourage spontaneity. The docents are proud to play on one of the best croquet teams in the region (the rules of croquet were formalized in this house in 1868). Page through the early 20th-century family photo albums in the room just off the entry.
Cost and Hours: £9.10; April-Sept Wed-Sat 13:00-17:00; mid-late-March and Oct Wed-Sat 13:00-16:00; closed Nov-mid-March and Sun-Tue year-round; ticket office opens at 12:30, last entry one hour before closing; recorded info tel. 01494/755-560, www.nationaltrust.org.uk/chastleton.
Getting In: Only 180 visitors a day are allowed into the home (25 people every 30 minutes), and reservations are not possible—it’s first-come, first served. At the busiest times, you might have to wait a bit to enter the house. Wednesday and Thursday are the quietest days, with the shortest wait times.
Getting There: Chastleton House is well-signposted, about a 10-minute drive southeast of Moreton-in-Marsh off the A-44. It’s a five-minute hike to house from the free parking lot.
This village has two side-by-side attractions that might appeal if you have a special interest or time to kill.
Getting There: Batsford is an easy 45-minute, one-mile country walk west of Moreton-in-Marsh. It’s also connected to Moreton by buses #21 and #22.
Cotswold Falconry Centre—Along with the Cotswolds’ hunting heritage comes falconry—and this place, with dozens of specimens of eagles, falcons, owls, and other birds, gives a sample of what these deadly birds of prey can do. You can peruse the cages to see all the different birds, but the demonstration, with vultures or falcons swooping inches over your head, is what makes it fun.
Cost and Hours: £8, discount at Batsford Arboretum with ticket; daily mid-Feb-mid-Nov 10:30-17:30, mid-Nov-mid-Feb 10:30-16:30, last entry 30 minutes before closing; flying displays at 11:30, 13:30, and 15:00, plus in summer at 16:30; Batsford Park, tel. 01386/701-043, www.cotswold-falconry.co.uk.
Batsford Arboretum—This sleepy grove, with 2,800 trees from around the world, pales in comparison to some of the Cotswolds’ genteel manor gardens. But it’s next door to the Falconry Centre, and handy to visit if you’d enjoy strolling through a diverse wood. The arboretum’s café serves lunch and tea on a terrace with sweeping views of the Gloucestershire countryside.
Cost and Hours: £7, ticket good for discount at Falconry Centre, daily 10:00-18:00, last entry at 16:45, tel. 01386/701-441, www.batsarb.co.uk.
Conveniently located halfway between the Cotswolds and Oxford, Blenheim Palace is one of Britain’s best—worth ▲▲▲. Too many palaces can send you into a furniture-wax coma, but everyone should see Blenheim. The Duke of Marlborough’s home—the largest in England—is still lived in, which is wonderfully obvious as you prowl through it. The 2,000-acre yard, well-designed by Lancelot “Capability” Brown, is as majestic to some as the palace itself. The view just past the outer gate as you enter is a classic. Even if you’re in a hurry, you’ll need two hours to see the basic sights—but if you have more time, you could spend all day here. Note: Americans who pronounce the place “blen-HEIM” are the butt of jokes. It’s “BLEN-em.”
Cost and Hours: £20, discount tickets that save £2.50-3 are available at TIs in surrounding towns—including Oxford and Moreton-in-Marsh; family ticket for two adults and two kids-£52, £5 guidebook; open mid-Feb-Oct daily 10:30-17:30, last entry at 16:45; Nov-mid-Dec Wed-Sun 10:30-17:30; park open but palace closed Nov-mid-Dec Mon-Tue and mid-Dec-mid-Feb; tel. 01993/810-530, recorded info tel. 0800-849-6500, www.blenheimpalace.com.
Getting There: Blenheim Palace sits at the edge of the cute cobbled town of Woodstock. The train station nearest the palace (Hanborough, 1.5 miles away) has no taxi or bus service.
If you’re coming from the Cotswolds, your easiest train connection is from Moreton-in-Marsh to Oxford, where you can catch the bus to Blenheim (explained next; note that bus #S3 doesn’t always stop at the Oxford train station—you may have to walk five minutes to the bus station).
From Oxford, take bus #S3 (2/hour, 30 minutes; bus tel. 01865/772-250, www.stagecoachbus.com). Catch it from the bus station at Gloucester Green (usually stops at Oxford’s train station as well; may also pick up in the center on George Street—ask). It stops twice near Blenheim Palace: the “Blenheim Palace Gates” stop is along the main road about a half-mile walk to the palace itself; the “Woodstock/Marlborough Arms” stop puts you right in the heart of the village of Woodstock (handy if you want to poke around town before heading to the palace; this adds just a few more minutes’ walking than the other bus stop). The Woodstock gate also offers the most spectacular view of the palace and lake.
Drivers head for Woodstock (from the Cotswolds, follow signs for Oxford on the A-44); the palace is well-signposted once in town, just off the main road. Buy your ticket at the gate, then drive up the long driveway to park near the palace.
Background: John Churchill, first duke of Marlborough, defeated Louis XIV’s French forces at the Battle of Blenheim in 1704. This pivotal event marked a turning point in the centuries-long struggle between the English and the French, and some historians claim that if not for his victory, we’d all be speaking French today. (They’re probably exaggerating, but qui sait?) A thankful Queen Anne rewarded Churchill by building him this nice home, perhaps the finest Baroque building in England (designed by playwright-turned-architect John Vanbrugh). Ten dukes of Marlborough later, it’s as impressive as ever. (The current, 11th duke considers the would-be 12th more of an error than an heir, and what to do about him is quite an issue.) In 1874, a later John Churchill’s daughter-in-law, Jennie Jerome, gave birth at Blenheim to another historic baby in that line...and named him Winston. The history continues.
Self-Guided Tour: From the parking lot, you’ll likely enter at the recently opened East Courtyard Visitors’ Center (with café). Pick up a free map and head through the small courtyard. You’ll emerge into a grand courtyard in front of the palace’s columned yellow facade. Most of the attractions are reached by going through the palace’s main entry.
You’ll enter into the truly great Great Hall. Before taking the well-organized tour, spend some time on your own in the fine Winston Churchill Exhibition, which displays letters, paintings, and other artifacts of the great statesman who was born here. The highlight is the bed in which Sir Winston was born in 1874 (prematurely...his mother went into labor suddenly while attending a party here).
When you’ve had your fill of Churchill, catch the 45-minute guided tour of the state rooms—the fancy halls the dukes use to impress visiting dignitaries (tours leave every 10 minutes, included with ticket, last one at 16:45). This fascinating tour lets visitors ogle some of the most sumptuous rooms in the palace, ornamented with fine porcelain, gilded ceilings, portraits of past dukes, photos of the present duke’s family, and “chaperone” sofas designed to give courting couples just enough privacy...but not too much. When the palace is really busy (most likely on Sun), they dispense with guided tours and go “free flow,” allowing those with an appetite for learning to strike up conversations with docents in each room.
Enjoy the series of 10 Brussels tapestries that commemorate military victories of the First Duke of Marlborough, including the Battle of Blenheim. After winning that pivotal conflict, he scrawled a quick note on the back of a tavern bill notifying the Queen of his victory (you’ll see a replica). The tour offers insights into the quirky ways of England’s fading nobility—for example, in exchange for this fine palace, the duke still pays “rent” to the Queen in the form of one ornamental flag per year (called “quit-rent standard”).
The palace items come with tales of past dukes of Marlborough and their families. You’ll learn about Consuelo Vanderbilt—of the New York Vanderbilts—who was forced against her will to marry into this aristocratic family. She was miserable, but dutifully produced two sons (whom she dubbed “the heir and the spare”) before the marriage fell apart after 10 years.
Finish with the remarkable “long library”—with its tiers of books and stuccoed ceilings—before exiting through the chapel, near the entrance to the gardens (described later). But before taking off to explore the gardens, consider two more attractions inside the main palace.
The Untold Story (to the left as you enter the Great Hall) is a modern, 45-minute, multimedia “visitors’ experience” (15 people go in every 3 minutes, included in your ticket). You’ll travel from room to room—as doors open and close behind you—guided through 300 years of history by a maid named Grace Ridley. (If you have limited time to spend at the palace, this is skippable.)
For a more extensive visit, follow up the general tour with a 30-minute guided walk through the private apartments of the duke. Tours leave at the top and bottom of each hour; however, since you’ll see where the duke’s family actually resides today, tours are cancelled if His Grace is in his jammies (£4.50, irregular schedule but generally daily 12:00-16:30, most likely to be open in summer, tickets are limited, buy from table in library or at main entry, enter in corner of courtyard to left of grand palace entry).
The palace’s expansive gardens stretch nearly as far as the eye can see in every direction. Access them from the courtyard, by going through the little door near the “Churchill Shop” (as you face the main palace entrance, it’s to the right). You’ll emerge into the Water Terraces; from there, you can loop around to the left, behind the palace, to see (but not enter) the Italian Garden. Or, head down to the lake to walk along the waterfront trail; going left takes you to the rose gardens and arboretum, while turning right brings you to the Grand Bridge. You can explore on your own (using the map and good signposting), or rent a £3 audioguide that outlines three different walks around the property (40-90 minutes depending on tour; rent it in the “Churchill Shop” next to the door to the gardens). A café sits at the garden exit for basic lunch and teatime treats.
Finally, in the “stables block” (under the gateway to the right, as you face the main palace entrance) is the “Churchill’s Destiny” exhibit, which traces the military leadership of two great men who shared that name: John, who defeated Louis XIV at the Battle of Blenheim in the 18th century, and in whose honor this palace was built; and Winston, who was born in this palace, and who won the Battle of Britain and helped defeat Hitler in the 20th century. The exhibit offers a painstaking, blow-by-blow account of each of the battles. It’s remarkable that arguably two of the most important military victories in the nation’s history were overseen by distant cousins—England is a small island indeed. (Winston Churchill fans can visit his tomb, just over a mile away in the Bladon town churchyard—the church is faintly visible from inside the palace.)
The final attraction is actually on the way out of the palace complex: the kid-friendly pleasure garden, where a lush and humid greenhouse flutters with butterflies. A kid zone includes a few second-rate games and the “world’s largest symbolic hedge maze.” The maze is worth a look if you haven’t seen one and could use some exercise. If you have a car, you’ll pass these gardens as you drive down the road toward the exit; otherwise, you can take the tiny train from the palace parking lot to the garden (2/hour).
(£1 = about $1.60, country code: 44, area code: 01993)
$$ Blenheim Guest House, charming and 200 years old, has six rooms in the town center. A bit musty, it’s located above a tearoom literally next door to the gateway into the palace grounds (Sb-£55, Db-£70-80 depending on size, free Wi-Fi, 17 Park Street, tel. 01993/813-814, fax 01993/813-810, www.theblenheim.co.uk, theblenheim@aol.com).
$$ The Blenheim Buttery has six modern, comfortable rooms fitted into a half-timbered, slanted-floor building (Sb-£55-85, Db-£75-110, lower prices are for off-season, free cable Internet, 7 Market Place, tel. 01865/811-950, www.theblenheimbuttery.co.uk, info@theblenheimbuttery.co.uk, Felicity).
