Just north of Stratford, you’ll find England’s single most spectacular castle: Warwick. This medieval masterpiece, which has been turned into a virtual theme park, is extremely touristy—but it’s also historic and fun, and may well be Britain’s most kid-friendly experience. The town of Warwick, huddled protectively against the castle walls, is a half-timbered delight—enjoyable for a lunch or dinner, or even for an overnight stay.
A bit farther north sits the decidedly not cute city of Coventry—a blue-collar burg that was notoriously obliterated by the Nazi Luftwaffe in World War II. While today’s Coventry, having been rebuilt modern and drab, offers little charm, it does feature one of Britain’s most poignant WWII sights: the charred husk of its once-grand cathedral, now left as a monument, with the inspiring new cathedral just next door. A few other intriguing museums round out Coventry’s appeal.
Warwick and Coventry are both ideal on-the-way destinations—lash them onto your itinerary as you head north from Stratford. Warwick Castle deserves at least three hours for a quick visit, but it can be an all-day outing for families. Coventry’s cathedral can be seen quickly—in about an hour, if that’s all the time you have—though the city’s other sights could fill an additional couple of hours. If you’re prioritizing, Warwick is (for most) the better stop, with its grand castle and charming town; Coventry is worthwhile primarily for its iconic cathedral ruins and for the chance to see a real, struggling, industrial Midlands city.
Warwick and Coventry are both reachable by public transportation, but easier for drivers. For tips in splicing Warwick and/or Coventry into your northbound drive out of Stratford, see that chapter’s “Planning Your Time” on here and “Route Tips for Drivers” on here.
The pleasant town of Warwick (“WAR-ick”) is home to England’s finest medieval castle, which dominates the banks of the River Avon just upstream from Stratford. The castle is impressive in itself, but its line-up of theme-park-type experiences makes it particularly entertaining, especially for kids. The castle-related attractions, while pricey, offer something for everyone, and on a sunny day the grounds are a treat to explore.
Meanwhile, Warwick town—with a fine market square and some good eateries—goes about its business almost oblivious to the busloads of tourists passing through. While handy for an overnight, Warwick offers relatively little to see beyond its castle.
With about 24,000 people, Warwick is small and manageable. The castle and old town center sit side-by-side, with the train station about a mile to the north. From the castle’s main gate, a lane leads into the old town center a block away, where you’ll find the TI, plenty of eateries (see “Eating in Warwick,” later), and a few minor sights.
Warwick’s TI sells same-day tickets to Warwick Castle—there’s no discount, but it can save you time in line at the castle (Mon-Sat 9:30-17:00, Sun 10:00-16:30, closes 30 minutes earlier Oct-May, The Courthouse, Jury Street, tel. 01926/492-212, www.visitwarwick.co.uk). The TI has Internet access (£0.50 to get online for a few minutes) and a room-booking service (pay 10 percent here and the rest at your B&B).
By Train: Warwick has two train stations; you want the one called simply “Warwick” (Warwick Parkway Station is farther from the castle). Day-trippers can leave bags at the train station’s Castle Cars taxi office for an extortionate £10 a day. It’s much cheaper to carry your bags into town and use the £1 lockers near the castle (at the entrance to the Stables Car Park; if lockers are all taken—unlikely but possible—try asking very nicely at the castle information desk).
A taxi from the station to the castle or town center costs £5. It’s just a 15-minute walk from the station to the castle or town center: Exit straight ahead down the street, then bear right onto Coventry Road, where you’ll start to see signs for the castle. From here, at the traffic light, turn right onto St. John’s Road. At the three-way fork, take Smith Street (the middle fork), which leads you through the old gateway straight up Warwick’s High Street. After a long block, the TI appears on your left, with the main castle gate just beyond (up Castle Street). To reach the market square and restaurants from the TI, go one more block and turn right.
By Car: The main Stratford-Coventry road cuts right through Warwick. Coming from Stratford (8 miles to the south), you’ll hit the castle parking lots first (£6, buy token from machine to exit lot; if these are full, lurk until a few cars leave and they’ll let you in). The four castle lots are expensive, and three of them are a 10- to 15-minute walk from the actual castle; the closest one, just off Castle Lane, is the Stables Car Park, which costs more (£10). Street parking in the town center is cheaper (less than £2), but there’s a two- to three-hour maximum—not enough time to fully experience the castle.
Almost too groomed and organized, this theme park of a castle gives its crowds of visitors a decent value for the stiff entry fee. The cash-poor but enterprising Earl of Warwick hired the folks at Merlin Entertainments (which owns many other big-name British attractions) to wring maximum tourist dollars out of his castle. They’ve made the place entertaining indeed, and packed it with lively exhibits...but also watered down the history a bit, and added several layers of gift shops, overpriced concessions, and nickel-and-dime add-ons. The greedy feel of the place can be a little annoying, considering the already-steep admission. But—especially for kids—there just isn’t a better medieval castle experience in Britain. With a lush, green, grassy moat and fairy-tale fortifications, Warwick Castle will entertain you from dungeon to lookout.
The castle is a 14th- and 15th-century fortified shell, holding an 18th- and 19th-century royal residence, surrounded by another one of dandy “Capability” Brown’s landscape jobs (like at Blenheim Palace). You can tour the sumptuous staterooms, climb the towers and ramparts for the views, stroll through themed exhibits populated by aristocratic wax figures, explore the sprawling grounds and gardens, and—best of all—interact with costumed docents who explain the place and perform fantastic demonstrations of medieval weapons and other skills.
Cost and Hours: Steep £22 entry fee (£16 for kids under age 12, £17 for seniors) includes gardens and most castle attractions except for the gory Castle Dungeon (£8) and the Merlin: The Dragon Tower show (£5). Combo-tickets are available. Open daily April-Sept 10:00-18:00, Oct-March 10:00-17:00.
Advance Tickets: Booking in advance at www.warwick-castle.com saves substantial money and time waiting in the ticket line (advance tickets bought at the Warwick TI let you avoid the line, but they don’t save you money).
Information: The dry, nine-stop audioguide leads you through the state rooms (£2.50, or £4/2 people), but the posted information is more concise and interesting. The £5 guidebook gives you nearly the same script in souvenir-booklet form. (A children’s audioguide, called “A Knight’s Tale,” is £1.50.) The audioguides and the guidebook are available at the gift shop near the entrance (not the ticket booth). If you tour the castle without help, pick the brains of the earnest and talkative docents. Recorded info tel. 0871-265-2000, www.warwick-castle.com.
Demonstrations and Events: It’s the well-presented demos and other events that make this castle particularly worthwhile. These can include jousting competitions, archers showing off their longbow skills, sword fights, jester acts, falconry shows, demonstrations of the trebuchet (like a catapult) and ballista (a type of giant slingshot). They’re offered year-round, but most frequently in summer and on weekends and school holidays. When you buy your castle ticket, be sure to pick up the daily events flier and plan your day around these events.
Eating at the Castle: Consider bringing your own picnic to enjoy at the gorgeous grounds. Otherwise you’ll be left with overpriced concessions stands serving variations on the same mass-produced food. The stands are scattered around the castle grounds (and marked on the map you get with your ticket). The Coach House has cafeteria fare and grungy seating (located just before the turnstiles). The Undercroft has a sandwich buffet line (located inside, in basement of palace); you can sit under medieval vaults or escape with your food and picnic outside. The riverside pavilion sells sandwiches and fish-and-chips, and has fine outdoor seating (in park just before the bridge, behind castle). Fortunately, just 100 yards from the castle turnstiles—through a tiny gate in the wall—is Warwick town’s workaday commercial district, with several better (and better-value) lunch options. It’s worth the walk (see “Eating in Warwick,” later).
Self-Guided Tour: Buy your ticket and head through the turnstile into the moat area, where you’ll get your first view of the dramatic castle. In good weather, this lawn-like zone is filled with tents populated by costumed docents demonstrating everyday medieval lifestyles.
From the moat, two different entrance gateways lead to the castle’s inner courtyard. Within these mighty walls, there’s something for every taste (described below); look for signs for where to enter each one.
The bulge of land at the far end of the courtyard, called The Mound, is where the original Norman castle of 1068 stood. Under this “motte,” the wooden stockade (the “bailey”) defined the courtyard in the way the castle walls do today. You can climb up to the top for a view down into the castle courtyard (do this at the end, since you can exit down the other side, toward the riverbank).
The main attractions are in the largest buildings along the side of the courtyard: the Great Hall, five lavish staterooms, and the chapel. Progressing through these rooms, you’ll see how the castle complex evolved over the centuries, from the militarized Middle Ages to civilized Victorian times, from a formidable defensive fortress to a genteel manor home.
Enter through the cavernous Great Hall, decorated with suits of equestrian armor. Adjoining the Great Hall is the state dining room, with portraits of English kings and princes. Then follow the one-way route through the staterooms, keeping ever more esteemed company as you go—the rooms closest to the center of the complex were the most exclusive, reserved only for those especially close to the Earl of Warwick. You’ll pass through a series of three drawing rooms (abbreviated from “withdrawing,” from a time when these provided a retreat into a more intimate area after a to-do in the larger, more public rooms): first, one decorated in a deep burgundy; then the cedar drawing room, with intricately carved wood paneling, a Waterford crystal chandelier, and a Carrara marble fireplace; and finally the green drawing room, with a beautiful painted coffered ceiling and wax figures of Henry VIII and his six wives. The sumptuous Queen Anne Room was decorated in preparation for a planned 1704 visit by the monarch (unfortunately, Queen Anne never came—she got wind that one of her ladies-in-waiting, with whom she was fiercely competitive, was also coming, so she canceled at the last minute). Finally comes the blue boudoir, an oversized closet decorated in blue silk wallpaper. The portrait of King Henry VIII over the fireplace faces a clock once owned by Marie-Antoinette.
On your way out, you’ll pass the earl’s private chapel. The earl’s family worshipped in the pews in front of the stone screen, while the servants would stand behind it. Notice the ornate wood-carved relief depicting a scene of the Greeks fighting the Amazons, based on a painting by Peter Paul Rubens. The organ in the back of the chapel was powered by a hand-pumped bellows.
Back out in the courtyard, to the left of the staterooms, are the entrances to two other, less impressive exhibits. The Kingmaker exhibit (set in 1471) uses mannequins, sound effects, and smells to show how medieval townsfolk prepared for battle—from the blacksmiths and armory, to the wardrobe, to the final rallying cry, with costumed docents standing by. The Secrets and Scandals of the Royal Weekend Party exhibit lets you explore staterooms staged as they appeared in 1898, but with an added narrative element: The philandering Daisy Maynard, Countess of Warwick—considered the most beautiful woman in Victorian England—is throwing a party, and big-name aristocrats are in attendance, including a young Winston Churchill. Among the guests is the Prince of Wales (the future King Edward VII), with whom Daisy reportedly also had a long-time affair. Gossipy “servants” clue you in on who’s flirting with whom. The rooms are populated by eerily convincing Madame Tussauds-style wax figures, and posted information and soundtracks loosely narrate the scandal. Unfortunately, it’s more dry than titillating, and a bit hard to follow unless you’re versed in the ins and outs of late-19th-century aristocratic intrigue.
You can climb up onto the ramparts and tower—a one-way, no-return route that leads you up and down (on very tight spiral stairs) the tallest tower, leaving you at a fun perch from which to fire your imaginary longbow. The halls and stairs can be very crowded with young kids, and—as the signs warn—it takes 530 steep steps (both up and down) to follow the whole route; claustrophobes should consider it carefully.
The Princess Tower offers children (ages 3-8) the chance to dress up as princesses and princes for a photo op. While it’s included in the castle ticket, those interested must first sign up for a 15-minute time slot at the information tent in the middle of the courtyard, near the staterooms.
Two other pricey and skippable add-on attractions can also be entered from the courtyard (if you didn’t buy a combo-ticket at the entrance, you can buy individual tickets at the information tent near the staterooms). The Castle Dungeon, a gory, tacky knock-off of the London Dungeon, features a series of costumed hosts who entertain and spook visitors on a 45-minute tour. Merlin: The Dragon Tower, a 20-minute live-action stage show with special effects, is based on a popular BBC television series.
Outside of the inner courtyard area are additional diversions. Surrounding everything is a lush, peacock-patrolled, picnic-perfect park, complete with a Victorian rose garden. The castle grounds are often enlivened by a knight in shining armor on a horse that rotates with a merry band of musical jesters. The grassy moat area is typically filled with costumed characters and demonstrations, including archery and falconry. Near the entrance to the complex is the Pageant Playground, with medieval-themed slides and climbing areas for kids. Down by the river is a bridge across to River Island, and—tucked around the back of the castle—a restored mill and engine house, with an exhibit that explains how the castle was electrified in 1894.
While Warwick has a few attractions beyond the castle, most are not that exciting.
The most photogenic building in town (aside from the castle) is the Lord Leycester Hospital, a gaggle of adjoining 14th-century half-timbered houses next to the southern gate of High Street. Converted into a “hospital” (rest home for the elderly or ill) in 1571, it has a chapel, great hall, maze of old rooms, and pretty garden (overpriced at £5, borrow self-guided tour brochure at entry, Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, until 16:30 in winter, closed Mon year-round except Bank Holidays, 60 High Street, tel. 01926/491-422, www.lordleycester.com).
Garden fans will find three good ones in Warwick. Most appealing is the Mill Garden, down the quaint and half-timbered Mill Street from the castle gate; this small garden, which adjoins the castle property, has fantastic views of the River Avon and castle (£2, April-Oct daily 9:00-18:00, closed Nov-March, 55 Mill Street, tel. 01926/492-877). Hill Close Gardens, at the other end of town near the racecourse, has 16 small Victorian garden plots but limited hours (£3.50, Easter-mid-Oct Fri and Sun 14:00-17:00, Sat 11:00-17:00, closed Mon-Thu, Bread and Meat Close, tel. 01926/493-339, www.hillclosegardens.com). The garden at the Lord Leycester Hospital (described above) rounds out your options.
$$ Park Cottage fills a creaky 1521 half-timbered house (once the dairy for the castle) with seven rooms and teddy-on-the-beddy touches. It’s on the main road at the opposite end of town from the train station (near the racecourse and the castle), but Stuart and Janet will pick you up if their schedule allows (Sb-£59, Db-£74-84, family room-£12.50 extra per child, free Wi-Fi, free parking, 113 West Street/A-429, tel. 01926/410-319, www.parkcottagewarwick.co.uk, janet@parkcottagewarwick.co.uk).
Several B&Bs line Emscote Road (A-445) at the train-station end of town. The closest to town—and best—is $$ Agincourt Lodge, renting six comfortable rooms in an 1843 Victorian house (S-£45, Sb-£50-55 depending on size, D with private b on the hall-£65, Db-£73, larger Db with four-poster bed-£83, Tb-£85, Qb-£95, free Wi-Fi, free parking, 36 Coten End, tel. 01926/499-399, www.agincourtlodge.co.uk, enquiries@agincourtlodge.co.uk, Mike and Marisa).
All of these are on or within a short stroll of Market Place.
The Rose and Crown is a popular gastropub serving English food with a modern twist. Enjoy the cozy but not claustrophobic interior (order food at the bar, or dine in the table-service area), or sit outside (lunch—£5-7 light meals, £11-13 larger dishes; dinner—£11-18 main courses, £3 sides; food served daily 8:00-22:00, open longer for drinks, 30 Market Place, tel. 01926/411-117).
The Lazy Cow, a newer competitor a few doors down, is a bit more trendy and pricey, with a focus on steaks (in the open kitchen, see the aging cabinet and the indoor barbecue). Vegetarians may be put off by both the meat-heavy menu and the cow-themed decor (£5-8 starters, £10-20 main courses, open daily 7:00-24:00, food served in bar until 19:00 Fri-Sat, in sit-down restaurant until closing, 10 Theatre Street, tel. 08451-200-666).
The Pot & Fin serves up excellent fish-and-chips in a charming, rustic cottage setting a block off of Market Place (toward the castle). Everything is made fresh in-house. If you order takeaway (£4-7), you can grab one of the tables; or head upstairs for the pricier table-service menu, with £8 main courses (Mon 12:00-14:00, Tue-Thu 12:00-14:00 & 17:00-21:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-21:00, 48 Brook Street, tel. 01926/492-426).
Saffron Gold is a well-regarded Indian restaurant serving tasty £7-13 meals in an upscale setting with good service (Sun-Thu 17:30-23:30, Fri-Sat 17:30-24:00, just a block off Market Square but tricky to find—in drab Westgate House building near the Marks & Spencer, on Market Street, tel. 01926/402-061).
The Art Kitchen, right on the main pedestrian shopping street, is a mod Thai bistro surrounding a bar (£6-8 lunches, £8-16 dinners, Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00, 7 Swan Street, tel. 01926/494-303).
Warwick is on the train line between Birmingham’s Moor Street Station and London’s Marylebone Station; most other connections require a change in the adjacent town of Leamington Spa.
From Warwick by Train to: Leamington Spa (about 2/hour, 3-10 minutes), Stratford (10/day, 30 minutes—buses are better, see below), Coventry (hourly, 30-60 minutes, transfer in Leamington Spa), Oxford (nearly hourly, 50-70 minutes, transfer in Leamington Spa), London’s Marylebone Station (2/hour direct, 1.75 hours). Train info: tel. 0845-748-4950, www.nationalrail.co.uk.
By Bus to: Stratford (hourly, 20 minutes, bus #X17, also slower #15/ #18), Coventry (10/day, 1 hour, bus #X17, www.stagecoachbus.com).
Coventry was bombed to smithereens in 1940 by the Nazi Luftwaffe (air force). From that point on, the German phrase for “to really blast the heck out of a place” was (roughly) “to coventrate” it. But Coventry rose from its ashes, and its message to our world is one of forgiveness, reconciliation, and the importance of peace.
Before it was infamous as a victim of World War II, Coventry had an illustrious history. According to legend, Coventry’s most famous hometown girl, Lady Godiva, rode bareback and bare-naked through the town in the 11th century to convince her stubborn husband to lower taxes. You’ll see her bronze statue on the market square a block from the cathedral, and a fun exhibit about her in the Herbert Museum.
The cloth trade made Coventry one of England’s leading cities in the Middle Ages. Its fortunes rose and fell over time, and by the 20th century it had become a major industrial center—first as Britain’s main bicycle manufacturer, later as its top car-making city, and eventually as a major center of armaments and aircraft assembly (making it a key target for the Nazis’ Luftwaffe bombers). The city was utterly devastated by the Blitz; aside from the human toll, its greatest loss was its proud and famous St. Michael’s Cathedral, which burned to the ground—the only English cathedral destroyed by the Nazis. Tellingly, Coventry’s sister cities include two other places synonymous with horrific WWII destruction: Dresden, Germany, and Volgograd (formerly Stalingrad), Russia.
Today’s Coventry isn’t pretty. While many other WWII-damaged English towns were rebuilt quaint and cobbled, Coventry is all characterless modern concrete. But its cathedral—combining the still bombed-out shell of the old building, and a highly symbolic, starkly modern new one—is poignant and inspiring, and its other museums are quite good (and free). While I wouldn’t go out of my way to visit Coventry, if you’re passing by, consider stopping off to browse through a bit of normal, everyday, urban England.
Coventry is a big city—with about 310,000 people—but everything of interest to visitors is in the small central core, which is bound by a busy ring road. You can walk from one end of the ring to the other in about 15 minutes. The train station is just south of the ring; the cathedral, TI, St. Anne’s Guildhall, and Herbert Museum are in the northeastern part of the ring; and the Transport Museum is about a 10-minute walk west of the cathedral.
The TI, at the base of the cathedral tower, hands out free maps and brochures (April-Sept Mon-Fri 9:30-17:00, Sat 10:00-16:30, Sun 10:00-12:00 & 13:00-16:30, closes 30 minutes earlier Oct-March, tel. 024/7622-5616, www.visitcoventryandwarwickshire.co.uk, tic@coventry.gov.uk).
If you’re passing through Coventry by public transportation, baggage storage is a problem—there’s none at the train station. The cathedral and Transport Museum will store your bags while you visit each sight, but otherwise you’re stuck. If your train route takes you through Birmingham’s New Street Station (a transit hub for the area), consider using the left luggage desk there.
By Train: From the train station (which sits just outside the ring road), it’s about a 15-minute walk to the cathedral. Exit straight ahead and find the blue line in the pavement, which leads you through the confusing maze of ring road overpasses to the edge of downtown; from there, simply follow signs for the cathedral (or the Transport Museum) through the modern shopping district. The cathedral is the taller of the two pointy spires.
By Car: Use the pay parking lot on Cox Street (just off of Fairfax Street), near the cathedral. From the ring road, take junction (exit) 2. The parking lot is basically under the ring road, across from the Coventry Sports and Leisure Centre.
The symbol of Coventry is the bombed-out hulk of its old cathedral, with the huge new one adjoining it. This inspiring complex welcomes visitors.
Cost and Hours: The ruins of the old cathedral are free to enter (gates open daily roughly 9:00-17:00), though you’ll pay to climb the tower (see below).
Entering the new cathedral costs a hefty £8; consider it a donation to a worthwhile cause (Mon-Sat 9:00-16:30, Sun 12:00-15:30). During the afternoon service or evensong, admission is free (Mon-Fri at 17:15, Sat-Sun at 16:00, evensong predictable only on Sun, otherwise service may be spoken).
The museum and café are closed on Sundays. The front desk will hold your bags while you visit. Tel. 024/7652-1200, www.coventrycathedral.org.uk.
Tower Climb: You can walk 181 steps up to the top of the tower for views over the cathedral complex and city. Buy your ticket and enter at the TI, at the base of the tower (£2.75, open same hours as TI, last entry 30 minutes before closing).
Self-Guided Tour: A visit to the cathedral complex has two parts: First explore the ruins of the original building, then head into the new cathedral. You can pick up the free Guide to the Ruined Cathedral pamphlet at the TI; the new cathedral also hands out a floor plan that includes both the old and new churches.
Old Cathedral Ruins: Coventry’s grand Perpendicular Gothic cathedral was the second to stand on this spot (built 1373-1460). Its towering, 303-foot-tall steeple—the third-highest in England—was a symbol for the city. On the night of November 14, 1940, Nazi Luftwaffe bombers filled the skies above Coventry. They dropped incendiary devices (firebombs) to light up the ground so they could see their targets. One of these hit the roof of the cathedral, which was quickly consumed in flames. (The tower survived.) Today the footprint and surviving walls stand as a testament to the travesty of war.
At the apse of the ruined structure (far end from tower) is a replica of the charred cross; the original is inside the new cathedral. While surveying the wreckage after the bombing, workers found these beams lying on the ground in the shape of a cross—so they lashed them together and erected it here. The message “Father Forgive” (spoken by Christ on the cross) makes it clear that this is a symbol not of anger, but of reconciliation. Every Friday at 12:00, the Coventry Litany of Reconciliation is said in these ruins—asking forgiveness for the seven deadly sins.
Various monuments are scattered around the ruins. Directly to the left of the charred cross is the bronze memorial to an early 20th-century bishop. In a chilling bit of irony, there’s a swastika on his headband—dating from a time when this was just a good-luck symbol, before it had been appropriated by Hitler and painted on the planes that destroyed this place. Closer to the tower, you’ll see the modern Ecce Homo sculpture (depicting Christ before Pilate) and a reconciliation monument, showing two people embracing across a gulf.
Before going inside the new cathedral building, head out to the plaza just beyond the complex and look back at it: old and new cathedrals, set perpendicular to each other, creating a continuous ensemble of worship. The large sculpture on the side of the new cathedral depicts St. Michael triumphing over the devil, as foretold by the Book of Revelation.
The cathedral’s visitors center is to the right; in this undercroft is a museum about the history of all three cathedrals that have stood on this site, with artifacts from each one. (Also notice, to your left, the glassy entrance to the Herbert Art Gallery and Museum—a good post-cathedral stop, it’s described later.)
• Now head into the new cathedral interior. If the main door (up the stairs) is open, head inside and buy a ticket; otherwise, enter through the visitors center.
New Cathedral: By the morning after the cathedral burned, the people of Coventry had already decided to rebuild it. The architect Basil Spence won the contest to design this re-imagining of the important church: The ruined old cathedral represents death and sacrifice, while the new structure—part of the same continuum—represents resurrection. While at first the cold gray walls inside the building make it feel gloomy and uninspired—almost (perhaps appropriately) like a giant bomb shelter—its highly symbolic design reveals itself to those who take the time to explore it.
Stand at the top of the main nave, on the giant letters that create a gathering area for the congregation. In the center of the nave near these letters, look for the maple leaf embedded in the floor—a thank-you to Canadians whose donations helped fund this building. Looking down the nave, notice that the cathedral follows the same basic traditional layout of much older churches (long nave, choir area, high altar and apse at the far end) but features decidedly modern designs and decorations.
Turn right to take in the gigantic and gorgeous stained-glass window of the baptistery—a starburst with intensely warm colors at the center, cool colors at the perimeter. Beneath this is the baptismal font, which is carved into a chunk of rock from the hills near Bethlehem. Looking down the nave, notice that otherwise, the cathedral has relatively little stained glass...from here, at least.
Across the nave from the baptistery, walk up the stairs into the Chapel of Unity. With its circular shape and floor mosaics depicting the five continents, this chapel preaches understanding among all Christian faiths—an ecumenism that echoes the cathedral’s mission of reconciliation.
Back out in the main nave, walk down the central aisle. Notice the well-worn copper coins embedded in the floor. Dating from 1962 (when the cathedral was consecrated), these help choir members keep a straight line as they process into the church.
Pause in front of the choir, with its modern, dramatically prickly canopy, designed to evoke Jesus’ crown of thorns—or possibly birds in flight. The Christmas-tree-shaped tower marks the seat of the bishop.
The green artwork that fills the far wall is not a fresco but a 74-foot-by-38-foot tapestry that depicts Jesus in a Byzantine Pantocrator (“creator of all”) pose, surrounded by symbols of the four evangelists. Notice the faint outline of a small human being standing protected between Jesus’ feet.
Turn around and look back down the nave. Remember how stained glass seemed in short supply from the far end of the church? From this direction, you can clearly see how the sawtooth-shaped design allows for row after row of colorful glass to be seen by worshippers as they return to their seats after taking communion. At the far end, notice that instead of a wall sealing off the church, there’s a giant glass window—to emphasize the connection between this new cathedral and the old one just outside. Both buildings also use the same local red sandstone. This is intended to be one big, unified space.
Now circle around the left side of the choir, to the back-left corner of the church, where stairs lead down to WCs, the church museum, and a café. Hanging at the top of the stairwell is the original charred cross that was found in the ruins of the cathedral after the bombing.
Now cross toward the other side of the church. Right in the middle, you’ll pass a misshapen cross above the main altar; in its center is a smaller cross consisting of three nails from the medieval church, which were also found in the wreckage. This “cross of nails” has become a symbol worldwide for postwar reconciliation. Several such crosses have been made, many of them given to other cities that were devastated by the war; one stands above the high altar of the rebuilt Frauenkirche in Dresden, Germany. (You can buy a small replica of the cross of nails in the cathedral shop, across from the main door.)
Continue to the far side of the church. You’ll pass the Chapel of Gethsemane, with a crown of thorns-shaped screen around the window. Beyond that, walk down the hallway and into the Chapel of Christ the Servant. The clear (rather than stained-glass) windows remind worshippers to extend their faith and stewardship outside the walls of this building. Also displayed here are fragments of the old cathedral’s original stained-glass windows.
▲Herbert Art Gallery and Museum—This expanded, impressive museum complex and cultural center combines town history exhibits and art collections. Since it’s free and directly behind the cathedral, it’s well worth dropping in if you have some time to spare. As there are several different exhibits—both permanent and temporary—be sure to explore the entire building (ask for a floor plan).
Near the entrance is the History Gallery, with enjoyable interactive exhibits that trace the city’s story from its beginnings to the Blitz to today. You’ll see actual artifacts from the Blitz and hear locals describe living through it. Beyond the information desk are small exhibits on peace and reconciliation (Coventry has understandably become a very pacifist city), and the small but entertaining “Discover Godiva” exhibit, which examines the legend (and possible fact) of Lady Godiva. Her husband, Earl Leofric, increased taxes dramatically on his subjects. She pleaded with him for a tax cut, and he agreed—provided that she ride naked through town on horseback. A fun animated video shows how the legend evolved, with each generation of storytellers adding their own flourishes. One popular version says that the townspeople respectfully averted their eyes, except for one “Peeping Tom”—who was struck blind for his voyeurism. You’ll also see paintings of the Lady, clips from movies about her, and companies that have appropriated her as a mascot. Upstairs is the museum’s modest but enjoyable gallery of sculpture, Old Masters, modern and contemporary artwork, and temporary exhibits.
Cost and Hours: Free, Mon-Sat 10:00-16:00, Sun 12:00-16:00, Jordan Well, tel. 024/7683-2386, www.theherbert.org.
▲St. Mary’s Guildhall—The origins of this fine half-timbered building, sitting next to the cathedral, are rooted in the fascinating history of England’s often-overlooked King Henry VI (r. 1422-1461). Afflicted with what today would be diagnosed as catatonic schizophrenia, Henry seemed to his medieval subjects to exist between our world and another—he’d drift into a trance and be unreachable for days or weeks at a time, and emerge reporting the vibrant visions he’d had. During the Wars of the Roses, Henry briefly moved the capital of England to Coventry, creating a special bond with the city. After his death, Henry’s corpse reportedly bled in front of observers, leading them to conclude that he was miraculous. A cult of followers sprang up around Henry, centered here in Coventry. People began to pray for divine intervention from the man they came to call “Saint Henry.” One young girl, who had been crushed under a wagon wheel, was miraculously healed when her mother prayed to Henry. (The pope sent delegates to verify some 300 reported miracles, and Henry would likely have been formally canonized—if his son, Henry VII, hadn’t refused to pay the hefty sum for sainthood. By the time his grandson, Henry VIII, broke away from the Vatican, all bets were off.) The local businessmen’s guilds of Coventry built this fine hall to venerate their favorite king and unofficial saint.
While it’s fun and a bit spooky to explore the maze of tight old rooms, the highlight here is the great hall. The semicircular stained-glass window traces Henry VI’s royal lineage—that’s him in the center, flanked by his supposed ancestors, William the Conqueror, King Arthur, and the Roman emperor Constantine (notice that Constantine’s cross is bigger than the others’—his mother, St. Helen, supposedly discovered Jesus’ “true cross”). Below the window is a remarkable, if faded, 14th-century tapestry that also honors Henry (ask the attendants to briefly turn on the light to see it better). More than 500 years old, this tapestry is still in situ—in the location for which it was intended. The hall is staffed by knowledgeable attendants who love to explain its history. If you dare, also ask them about the constant ghost sightings in this building—so frequent they’ve become routine.
Cost and Hours: Free, £0.50 pamphlet, £1 detailed descriptions, Easter-Sept Sun-Thu 10:00-16:00, closed Fri-Sat, during events, and off-season, tel. 024/7683-3325, www.coventry.gov.uk/stmarys.
A 10-minute walk from the cathedral, this good museum pays homage to Coventry’s car-making heritage. For much of the 20th century, Coventry was the main auto production center of Britain, and in the 1950s and 60s, more than a third of the city’s population built cars. On two floors of a sprawling modern building, you can see the first, fastest, and most famous cars that came from this “British Detroit.” The museum also shows off a collection of tractors, bicycles, motorcycles, and tanks...if it had wheels, they made it here. For car lovers, it’s worth ▲▲.
The exhibit focuses on local production (Daimler, Standard, Mandslay, and others), but a few famous non-Coventry cars are also included, such as Monty’s staff car, Princess Di’s modest Austin Metro car (a gift from Prince Charles before they married), a DeLorean, a 1949 Land Rover, and Ewan McGregor’s motorcycle from the BBC series Long Way Round. Aside from the cars, you’ll find the “Landmarques Show” (re-created streets of old-time Coventry, circa 1868-1948), the “Coventry Blitz Experience” (a low-tech, walk-through simulation of war-torn Coventry with sound and light effects), and—upstairs—the thought-provoking “Ghost Town?” exhibit (tracing the decline of the Coventry auto industry from 1980 to 2010).
Cost and Hours: Free, good £5 souvenir guidebook, £1 lockers for use only while on the premises, daily 10:00-17:00, tel. 024/7623-4270, www.transport-museum.com.
From Coventry by Train to: Warwick (hourly, 30-60 minutes, change in Leamington Spa), Stratford-upon-Avon (at least hourly, 1.75 hours, change in Leamington Spa or Birmingham), Oxford (hourly, 50 minutes), London’s Euston Station (3/hour, 1-2 hours), Telford Central (near Ironbridge Gorge; 2/hour, 1.5 hours, change in Birmingham). Train info: tel. 0845-748-4950, www.nationalrail.co.uk.