Wales, a country the size of Massachusetts, is located on a peninsula on the west coast of the Isle of Britain, facing the Irish Sea. Longer than it is wide (170 miles by 60 miles), it’s shaped somewhat like a miniature Britain. The north is mountainous, rural, and sparsely populated. The south, with a less-rugged topography, is where two-thirds of the people live (including the capital, Cardiff, pop. 340,000). The country has 750 miles of scenic, windswept coastline and is capped by Mount Snowdon, which, at 3,560 feet, is taller than any mountain in England.
Despite centuries of English imperialism, the Welsh language (a.k.a. Cymraeg, pronounced kum-RAH-ig) remains alive and well—more so than its nearly dead Celtic cousin of Gaelic in Scotland. Though everyone in Wales speaks English, one in five can also speak the native tongue. In the northwest, well over half the population is fluent in Welsh, and uses it in everyday life. Listen in.
Most certainly not a dialect of English, the Celtic Welsh tongue sounds to foreign ears like it might be Elvish from The Lord of the Rings. One of Europe’s oldest languages, Welsh has been written down since about A.D. 600, and was spoken 300 years before French or German. Today, the Welsh language is protected by law from complete English encroachment—the country is officially bilingual, and signs always display both languages (e.g., Cardiff/Caerdydd). In schools it’s either the first or the required second language; in many areas, English isn’t used in classes at all until middle school.
Though English has been the dominant language in Wales for many years (and most newspapers and media are in English), the Welsh people cherish their linguistic heritage as something that sets them apart. In fact, a line of the Welsh national anthem goes, “Oh, may the old language survive!”
Wales has some traditional foods worth looking for, particularly lamb dishes and leek soup (cawl). In fact, the national symbol is the leek, ever since medieval warriors—who wore the vegetable on their helmets in battle—saved the land from Saxon invaders. Cheese on toast is known as “Welsh rarebit” (or “Welsh rabbit”; the name is a throwback to a time when the poor Welsh couldn’t afford much meat in their diet). At breakfast you might get some “Welsh cakes,” basically a small squashed scone. Cockles and seaweed bread were once common breakfast items—but don’t expect your hotel to serve them.
Wales’ three million people are mostly white and Christian (Presbyterian, Anglican, or Catholic). Like their English and Scottish counterparts, they enjoy football (soccer), but rugby is the unofficial Welsh sport, more popular in Wales than in any country outside of New Zealand. Other big sports are cricket and snooker (similar to billiards).
The Welsh love their choirs. Every town has a choir (men’s or mixed) that practices weekly. Visitors are usually welcome to observe, and very often they follow the choir down to the pub afterward for a good old-fashioned beer-lubricated sing-along. As these choir rehearsals have become something of a tourist attraction, many choirs ask attendees for a small donation—fair enough. Take in a weekly choir practice at one of the following towns in North Wales (note that some towns have more than one choir, and schedules are subject to change—confirm the schedule with a local TI or your B&B before making the trip): Ruthin (mixed choir Thu 20:00 except Aug at Pwllglas Village Hall, tel. 07759/906-506, www.corrhuthun.co.uk), Llangollen (men’s choir Fri 19:00-21:00 at Hand Hotel, 21:00 pub singsong afterward, hotel tel. 01978/860-303), Denbigh (men’s choir Tue 19:30-21:30 at the Eirianfa Centre, tel. 01745/813-743, www.denbigh-choir.co.uk), Llandudno (men’s choir Mon 19:30-21:00 except Aug, near Conwy, tel. 01248/681-159, www.maelgwn.co.uk), and Caernarfon (men’s choir Tue 19:30 in the Galeri Creative Enterprise Centre at Victoria Dock, no practice in Aug, tel. 01286/677-404, www.cormeibioncaernarfon.org; good idea to call ahead or fill in web form if you want to attend). Additionally, many of these groups regularly perform concerts—inquire for the latest schedule.
The Welsh flag features a red dragon on a field of green and white. The dragon has been a symbol of Wales since at least the ninth century (maybe even from Roman days). According to legend, King Arthur’s men carried the dragon flag to battle.
Welsh history stretches back into the mists of prehistoric Britain. When Roman armies arrived on the island of Britain, they conquered the Celtic tribes here, built forts and cities, and (later) introduced Christianity. As Rome fell, Saxon (Germanic) tribes like the Angles stepped into the power vacuum, conquering what they renamed “Angle-land”—but they failed to penetrate Wales. Brave Welsh warriors, mountainous terrain, and the 177-mile man-made ditch-and-wall known as Offa’s Dyke helped preserve the country’s unique Celtic/Roman heritage. In 1216, Wales’ medieval kingdoms unified under Llywelyn Fawr (“the Great”).
But just a few decades later, in 1282, King Edward I of England invaded and conquered, putting an end to Wales’ one era as a unified, sovereign nation. To solidify his hold on the country, Edward built a string of castles (at Caernarfon, Conwy, and many other places—see sidebar on here). He then named his son and successor the “Prince of Wales,” starting the tradition of granting that ceremonial title to the heir to the English throne. Despite an unsuccessful rebellion in 1400, led by Owen Glendower (Owain Glyndwr), Wales has remained under English rule ever since Edward’s invasion. In 1535, the annexation was formalized under Henry VIII.
By the 19th century, Welsh coal and iron stoked the engines of Britain’s Industrial Revolution, and its slate was exported to shingle roofs throughout Europe. The stereotype of the Welsh as poor, grimy-faced miners continued into the 20th century. Their economy has been slow to transition from mining, factories, and sheep farming to the service-and-software model of the global world.
In recent decades the Welsh have consciously tried to preserve their local traditions and language. In 1999, Wales was granted its own parliament, the National Assembly, with powers to distribute the national budget. Though still ruled by the UK government in London, Wales now has a measure of independence and self-rule.
Less urbanized and less wealthy than England, Wales consists of miles of green land where sheep graze (because the soil is too poor for crops). It makes for wonderful hillwalking, but hikers should beware of midges. From late May through September, these tiny, biting insects are very interested in dawn, dusk, dampness, and you—pack insect repellent along on any hike.
Because Wales is an affordable weekend destination for many English, the country is becoming popular among avid English drinkers, who pour over the border on Friday nights for the cheap beer, before stumbling home on Sunday. Expect otherwise-sleepy Welsh border towns to be rowdy on Saturday nights.
I’ve focused my coverage of Wales on the north, which has the highest concentration of castles, natural beauty, and attractions. A few South Wales sights that are convenient to visit from Bath are covered in the Near Bath chapter.
Try to connect with Welsh culture in your itinerary. Clamber over a castle, eat a leek, count sheep in a field, catch a rugby match, or share a pint of bitter with a baritone. Open your ears to the sound of words as old as the legendary King Arthur. “May the old language survive!”