Map: Conwy Hotels & Restaurants
Between Conwy and Caernarfon: Beaumaris
Conwy • Caernarfon • Snowdonia National Park • Blaenau Ffestiniog • Ruthin
Wales’ top historical, cultural, and natural wonders are found in its north. From towering Mount Snowdon to lush forests to desolate moor country, North Wales is a poem written in landscape. For sightseeing thrills and diversity, North Wales is Britain’s most interesting slice of the Celtic crescent.
Wales is wonderful, but smart travelers sort through their options carefully. The region’s economy is poor, and the Welsh tourism industry keeps busy trying to wring every possible pound out of the tourist trade—be careful not to be waylaid by the many gimmicky sights and bogus “best of” lists.
This chapter covers only my favorite Welsh stopovers. Conwy and Caernarfon offer two of Wales’ top castles, which hover in the mist as mysterious reminders of the country’s hard-fought history. Each castle adjoins a pleasant town; Conwy, the more charming of the two, makes the region’s best home base, with appealing B&Bs and restaurants, a fun-to-explore townscape within mighty walls, and manageable connections to many nearby sights. Nearby, Snowdonia National Park plunges you into some of Wales’ top scenery—you can ride a train from Llanberis to the top of Mount Snowdon, learn more about the local industry at Llanberis’ Welsh Slate Museum, and explore the huggable villages of Beddgelert and Betws-y-Coed. The tongue-twisting industrial town of Blaenau Ffestiniog invites you to tour an actual slate mine, while appealing Ruthin—on the way back toward England—has a relaxing market-town vibe. Rounding out your options are the sumptuous Bodnant Garden (near Conwy), plenty more imposing castles (I particularly like Beaumaris), and the canal-straddling town of Llangollen.
On a three-week Britain trip, give North Wales two nights and a day. It’ll give you mighty castles, a giant slate mine, and some of Britain’s most beautiful scenery. Many visitors are charmed and decide to stay an extra day...or longer.
Drivers staying in Conwy who have just one day can follow this ambitious plan:
| 9:30 | Leave after breakfast |
| 10:00 | Visit Bodnant Garden |
| 12:00 | Pop into Trefriw Woolen Mills |
| 13:00 | Lunch in Llanberis and tour the Welsh Slate Museum, then drive to Caernarfon |
| 16:00 | Catch the 16:00 Caernarfon Castle tour (castle open until 18:00 July-Aug) |
| 18:00 | Browse the town of Caernarfon |
| 19:00 | Drive back to Conwy to follow my self-guided town walk (at 19:30) and have dinner (at 20:30) |
For those relying on public transportation, Conwy is a good home base, as it’s a hub for many of the area’s buses and trains. If you have just one day, leave Conwy in the morning for a loop through the Snowdonia sights (possibly including Betws-y-Coed, Beddgelert, or Llanberis, depending on bus and train schedules—check schedules and plan your route before heading out), then return to Conwy in the evening for the town walk and dinner. To see more in your limited time, consider hiring a local guide for a private driving tour (described later).
With a second day, slow down and consider the region’s other sights: the train from Llanberis up Mount Snowdon, the slate-mine tour in Blaenau Ffestiniog, Beaumaris Castle and jail, and the town of Ruthin. With more time and a desire to hike, consider using the mountain village of Beddgelert as your base.
By Public Transportation: North Wales (except Ruthin) is surprisingly well-covered by a combination of buses and trains (though you’ll want to get an early start to allow ample time to visit several destinations).
A main train line runs along the north coast from Chester to Holyhead via Llandudno Junction, Conwy, and Bangor, with nearly hourly departures (tel. 0845-748-4950, www.nationalrail.co.uk or www.arrivatrainswales.co.uk). From Llandudno Junction, the Conwy Valley line goes scenically south to Betws-y-Coed and Blaenau Ffestiniog (5/day Mon-Sat, 3/day on Sun in summer, no Sun trains in winter, www.conwy.gov.uk/cvr). And the old-fashioned Welsh Highland Railway steam train goes from Caernarfon to Beddgelert (2-3 trips/day, late-March-Oct, 1.5 hours), with many continuing on to Porthmadog.
Public buses (run by various companies) pick up where the trains leave off. Get the Public Transport Information booklet at any local TI. Certain bus lines—dubbed “Sherpa” routes (the bus numbers begin with #S)—circle Snowdonia National Park with the needs of hikers in mind (www.gwynedd.gov.uk, search on “Snowdon Sherpa” for timetables).
Schedules get sparse late in the afternoon and on Sundays; plan ahead and confirm times carefully at local TIs and bus and train stations. For any questions about public transportation, call the Wales Travel Line at tel. 0871-200-2233, or check www.traveline-cymru.info.
Your choices for money-saving public-transportation passes are confusing. The Red Rover Ticket—the simplest and probably the best bet for most travelers—covers all buses west of Llandudno, including Sherpa buses (£6.40/day, buy from driver). The North Wales Rover Ticket covers trains and certain buses within a complex zone system (£9-25/day, depending on how many zones you need; buy on bus or train, www.taith.gov.uk).
By Private Tour: Mari Roberts, a Welsh guide based in Ruthin, leads driving tours of the area tailored to your interests. Tours in her car are generally out of Conwy, but she will happily pick you up in Ruthin or Holyhead (£20/hour, 4-hour minimum, £160/day, tel. 01824/702-713, marihr@talktalk.net).
Along with Conwy Castle, this garrison town was built in the 1280s to give Edward I a toehold in Wales. As there were no real cities in 13th-century Wales, this was an English town, planted with settlers for the king’s political purposes. What’s left today are the best medieval walls in Britain, surrounding a humble town, crowned by the bleak and barren hulk of a castle that was awesome in its day (and still is). Conwy’s charming High Street leads down to a fishy harbor that permitted Edward to restock his castle safely. Because the highway was tunneled under the town, a strolling ambience has returned to Conwy.
Just beyond the castle, the mighty Telford Suspension Bridge was built in 1826 to better connect (and control) the route to Ireland. In that day, Dublin was the number-two city in all of Britain. These two major landmarks—the castle and 19th-century bridge—are both symbols of English imperialism.
Conwy is an enjoyably small community of 4,000 people. The walled old town center is compact and manageable. Lancaster Square marks the center, where you’ll find the bus “station” (a blue-and-white bus shelter), the unstaffed train station (the little white hut at the end of a sunken parking lot), and the start of the main drag, High Street—and my self-guided walk.
Conwy’s TI is located across from the castle’s short-stay parking lot on Rosehill Street (daily April-Oct 9:30-17:30, Nov-March 9:30-17:00, tel. 01492/577-566, www.visitllandudno.org.uk). Because Conwy’s train and bus “stations” are unstaffed, ask at the TI about train or bus schedules for your departure. Don’t confuse the TI with the uninformative “Conwy Visitors Centre,” a big gift shop near the station.
Whether taking the bus or train, you need to tell the driver or conductor you want to stop at Conwy. Milk-run trains stop here only upon request; major trains don’t stop here at all (instead, they stop at nearby Llandudno Junction—see below). Consider getting train times and connections for your onward journey at a bigger station before you come here. In Conwy, train schedules are posted above the platforms. For train info in town, ask at the TI, call tel. 0871-200-2233, or see www.traveline-cymru.info.
For more frequent trains, use Llandudno Junction, visible a mile away beyond the bridges (from Conwy, catch the bus, take a £5 taxi, or simply walk a mile). Make sure to ask for trains that stop at Llandudno Junction, and not Llandudno proper, which is a seaside resort farther from Conwy.
Festivals: The town is eager to emphasize its medieval history, with several events and festivals annually. Popular ones include the River Festival (a week in Aug, www.conwyriverfestival.org) and a food festival, which includes a laser light show projected onto the castle (a weekend in Oct, www.conwyfeast.co.uk). Ask at the TI or at your B&B to see what’s going on during your visit.
Internet Access: Get online at the library at the intersection of High and Castle streets (free, Mon and Thu-Fri 10:00-17:30, Tue 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-13:00, closed Wed and Sun, tel. 01492/596-242).
Car Rental: A dozen car-rental agencies in the city of Llandudno (a mile north of Llandudno Junction, all closed Sun) offer cars and can generally deliver to you in Conwy; the Conwy TI has a list. The closest ones, in Llandudno Junction, are Avis, a 10-minute walk from Conwy (113a Conwy Road, tel. 0844-544-6075) and Enterprise (tel. 01492/593-380).
Harbor Cruise: Two tour boats depart nearly hourly from the Conwy harborfront (£5.50 for 30 minutes, £8 for 1 hour, pay on boat, runs early-Feb-Oct daily 10:30-17:00 or 18:00 depending on tides, longer trips available, mobile 07917-343-058, www.sightseeingcruises.co.uk).
(See “Conwy Self-Guided Walk” map, here)
This brief orientation walk introduces you to the essential Conwy in about an hour. As the town walls are open late, you can do this walk at any time—evening is a fine time. If you want a shorter stroll, skip ahead to the harborfront’s promenade, which is perfect for a peaceful half-mile shoreline walk (start at the Smallest House in Great Britain—listed under “Harborfront” below).
• Start at the top of High Street on the main square.
Lancaster Square: The square’s centerpiece is a column honoring the town’s founder, the Welsh prince Llywelyn the Great. Looking downhill, past the blue-and-white bus stop, find the cute pointed archway built into the medieval wall so the train could get through. Looking uphill, you can see Bangor Gate, built by the British engineer Thomas Telford in 1826 to accommodate traffic from his suspension bridge.
• Walk uphill past Alfredo Restaurant to the end of the lane.
Slate Memorials: This wall of memorials recalls the 1937 coronation of King George VI (the father of today’s Queen Elizabeth II). Notice the Welsh-language lesson here, given to the town by a citizen who never learned to read and wanted to inspire others to avoid his fate. It lists, in Welsh, the counties (shires, or sir), months (a few are vaguely recognizable), days, numbers, and alphabet with its different letters. Much has changed since this memorial was posted. Today more people are speaking Welsh, and all children are taught Welsh in school until age 12.
• Turn left and walk uphill all the way to the wall, where steps lead to the top of the ramparts. Continue climbing to the very top of the town’s tallest turret.
Tallest Tower and Walls: You’re standing atop the most complete set of medieval town walls in Britain. In 1283, workers started to build them in conjunction with the castle. Four years later, they sent a message to London declaring, “Castle habitable, town defensible.” Edward then sent in English settlers. Enjoy the view from the top. From here, guards could spot ships approaching by sea.
• Heading left, walk two turrets downhill along the ramparts.
The turrets were positioned about every 50 yards, connected by ramparts, and each one had a drawbridge that could be raised to bottle up any breach. Passing the second turret, notice that its wall is cracked. When they tunneled underneath this turret for the train, the construction accidentally undermined the foundation, effectively taking the same tactic that invading armies would have. The huge crack makes plain why undermining was such a popular technique in medieval warfare. (Unlike the town walls, Conwy Castle was built upon solid rock, so it couldn’t be undermined.)
• At the first opportunity (just after walking above Bangor Gate), take the steps back down to street level. Then leave the old town by passing through Bangor Gate, heading downhill, and crossing the street for the best wide view of the walls.
The Walls (from Outside): You are walking down Town Ditch Road, named for the dry moat that was the first line of defense from the highest tower down to the riverbank. As was the case with most walled towns, there was a clear swath of “dead ground” outside the walls, so no one could sneak up. Once England centralized and consolidated its rule, all the walls and castles in Britain were pretty useless. Most fell into disrepair—ravaged by time and by scavengers who used them as quarries. During the Napoleonic Wars, English aristocrats were unable to make their “Grand Tour” of the Continent, so they explored the far reaches of their own land. That’s when ruined castles such as this one were “discovered” and began to be appreciated for their romantic allure.
• Stroll downhill to the bottom of Town Ditch Road. At the elderly-crossing sign (which also serves as a reminder to stand up straight), re-enter the old town, crossing through a hole cut in the wall by a modern mayor who wanted better access from his land, and walk down Berry Street. Originally called “Burial Street,” it was a big ditch for mass burials during a 17th-century plague. After one block, turn right, climbing up Chapel Street to an austere stone structure.
Carmel Church: This Presbyterian church is a fine example of stark “statement architecture”—stern, no-frills, and typical of churches built in the early 20th century. Even very small Welsh towns tend to have churches for several Christian denominations. (The Welsh have a reputation for nonconformity, even contentiousness—as the saying goes, “Get two Welshmen together, and you’ll have an argument. Get three together, and you’ll have a fight.”) In the 18th and 19th centuries, Welsh Christians who didn’t want to worship in the official, English-style Anglican Church joined “nonconformist” congregations, such as Methodists, Congregationalists, Quakers, or Presbyterians. You could say “nonconformist” is to “Anglican” as “Protestant” is to “Catholic.” Religious affiliation is closely tied to politics in Wales, where the Anglican Church, a.k.a. “The Church of England,” goes by the more politically appealing “The Church in Wales.” Still, many Welsh say, “The Anglican Church is the Conservative Party at prayer, and the nonconformist churches are the Labour Party at prayer.”
• Just beyond the church (on the left, at Seaview Terrace), in a modern building, is...
The Royal Cambrian Academy: This art academy, showing off two floors of contemporary Welsh painting, gives a fine glimpse into the region and its people through art (free, most paintings are for sale, March-Oct Tue-Sat 11:00-17:00, Sun 11:00-16:00, closed Mon; Nov-Feb Wed-Sat 11:00-16:00, closed Sun-Tue and for one week before each exhibition; on Crown Lane just above Plas Mawr, tel. 01492/593-413, www.rcaconwy.org).
• Continue on Crown Lane downhill past Plas Mawr. The first Welsh house built within the town walls, it dates from the time of Henry VIII (well worth touring, and described later, under “Sights in Conwy”).
Turn left onto...
High Street: Wander downhill, enjoying this slice-of-Welsh-life scene—tearooms, bakery, butcher, newsstand, and old timers. Across from the Castle Hotel is an old movie theater that is now the Bingo Palace (see “Nightlife in Conwy,” later). All the colorful flags you see have no meaning—merchants are flying them simply to pump up the town’s medieval feel. Aberconwy House marks the bottom of High Street. One of the oldest houses in town, it’s a museum (not worth touring). Conwy was once a garrison town filled with half-timbered buildings just like this one. At end of High Street, 20 yards to the right at 4 Castle Street, is the Penny Farthing Sweet Shop—filled with old-fashioned candy.
• Follow High Street through the gate and to the harbor.
Harborfront: The Harbor Gate, one of three original gates in the town walls, leads to the waterfront. The harbor dates from the 13th century, when it served Edward’s castle and town. (The harborfront street is still called “King’s Quay.”) Conwy was once a busy slate port. Slate, barged downstream to here, was loaded onto big three-masted ships and transported to the Continent. Back when much of Europe was roofed with Welsh slate, Conwy was a boomtown. All the mud is new—the modern bridge caused this part of the river to silt up.
Recent actions of the European Union have had a mixed effect on this waterfront. EU money helped pay for the recently built promenade, but hygiene laws have forced Conwy’s fishermen out: Now that fish must be transported in refrigerated vehicles, the fishermen had to set up shop a few miles away (refrigerator trucks can’t fit through the stone gate).
Conwy’s harbor is now a laid-back area that locals treat like a town square. On summer evenings, the action is on the quay (pronounced “key”). The scene is mellow, multigenerational, and perfectly Welsh. It’s a small town, and everyone is here enjoying the local cuisine—“chips,” ice cream, and beer—and savoring that great British pastime: torturing little crabs. (If you want to do more than photograph the action, rent gear from the nearby lifeboat house. Mooch some bacon from others for bait, and join in. It’s catch-and-release.)
The Liverpool Arms pub was built by a captain who ran a ferry service to Liverpool in the 19th century. Today it remains a salty and characteristic hangout—one of the few thriving pubs in town. In 1900, Conwy had about 40 pubs. Back when this harbor was busy with quarrymen shipping their slate, mussel men carting their catch, and small farmers with their goods, Conwy’s pubs were all thriving. Today, times are tough on the pubs, and this one depends on tourism.
• Facing the harbor in front of The Liverpool Arms, turn left and walk along the promenade.
It’s easy to miss the Smallest House in Great Britain. It’s red, 72 inches wide, 122 inches high, and worth £1 to pop in and listen to the short audioguide tour. No WC—but it did have a bedpan (April-Oct roughly daily 10:00-18:00, closed Nov-March, tel. 01492/592-689).
• Turn around and walk along the promenade toward the bridges and castle. On your right, you’ll find a processing plant.
Mussels, historically a big “crop” for Conwy, are processed “in the months with an R” at the Conwy Mussel Museum. In the other months, it’s open to visitors (free, Easter-Aug daily 10:30-16:30, on the quay, tel. 01492/592-689). Also, check out the striking sculpture on the quay—a giant clump of mussels carved from dark-gray limestone. The benches are great for a picnic (two recommended fish-and-chips shops are back through the gate) or a visit with the noisy gulls.
The nearby lifeboat house welcomes visitors. Each coastal town has a house like this one, outfitted with a rescue boat suited to the area—in the shallow waters around Conwy, inflatable boats work best. You’ll see Lifeboats stickers around town, marking homes of people who donate to the valuable cause of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI)—Britain’s all-volunteer and totally donation-funded answer to the Coast Guard.
• Walk past the shrimp pots, up the stairs past EU signs and a giant red-and-white buoy, to the big street for a view of the castle and bridges. You can cross the road for a closer look at the...
Bridges: Three bridges cross the river, side by side. Behind the modern 1958 highway bridge is the historic 1826 Telford Suspension Bridge. This was an engineering marvel in its day, part of a big infrastructure project to connect Dublin with the rest of the realm. Just beyond that is Robert Stephenson’s tube bridge for the train line (built in 1848). These days, 90 percent of traffic passes Conwy underground, unseen and unheard, in a modern tunnel.
• On the town side of the big road, follow the sidewalk away from the water, under the ivy and an arch, to a tiny park around a well. Facing that square is...
The Knight Shop: If you’re in the market for a battleaxe or perhaps some chainmail, pop into The Knight Shop. Even if you’re not, it’s a fun place to browse. The manager, Toby, is evangelical about mead, an ancient drink made from honey. Most travelers just get the cheap stuff at tourist shops, but Toby offers free tastes so you can appreciate quality mead (daily 10:00-17:00, Castle Square, tel. 01492/596-142, www.theknightshop.co.uk).
• Now, with a belly full of mead, set your bleary eyes on the...
View of Conwy Castle: Imagine this when it was newly built. Its eight mighty drum towers were brightly whitewashed, a statement of power from the English king to the Welsh—who had no cities and little more than bows and arrows to fight with. The castle is built upon solid rock—making it impossible for invaders to tunnel underneath the walls. The English paid dearly for its construction, through heavy taxes. And today, with the Welsh flag proudly flying from its top, the English pay again just to visit. Notice the remains of the castle entry, which was within the town walls. There was once a steep set of stairs (designed so no horse could approach) up to the drawbridge. The castle is by far the town’s top sight (described next).
▲▲Conwy Castle—Dramatically situated on a rock overlooking the sea with eight linebacker towers, this castle has an interesting story to tell. Finished in just four years, it had a water gate that allowed safe entry for English boats in a land of hostile Welsh subjects. At the back, beyond the 91-foot-deep spring-fed well, is a tower containing the chapel (with stained-glass windows added in 2012), the king’s “watching chamber” (for observing chapel services by himself—complete with toilet), and a model of the town as it might have looked around the year 1312.
Cost and Hours: £4.80, or £7.30 combo-ticket with Plas Mawr; guidebook-£3.50; March-Oct daily 9:30-17:00, July-Aug until 18:00; Nov-Feb Mon-Sat 10:00-16:00, Sun 11:00-16:00; last entry 30 minutes before closing, tel. 01492/592-358, www.cadw.wales.gov.uk.
▲City Walls—Most of the walls, with 22 towers and castle and harbor views, can be walked for free. Start at Upper Gate (the highest point) or Berry Street (the lowest), or you can do the small section at the castle entrance. (My favorite stretch is described on my “Welcome to Conwy” walk, earlier.) In the evening, most of the walkways stay open, though the section located near the castle closes 30 minutes before the castle does.
▲Plas Mawr—A rare house from 1580, built during the reign of Elizabeth I, Plas Mawr was the first Welsh home to be built within Conwy’s walls. (The Tudor family had Welsh roots—and therefore relations between Wales and England warmed.) Billed as “the oldest house in Wales,” it offers a delightful look at 16th-century domestic life. Historically accurate household items bring the rooms to life, as does the refreshing lack of velvet ropes—you’re free to wander as you imagine life in this house. At the entry, pick up the included 60-minute audioguide or an info sheet. Docents, who are posted in some rooms, are happy to answer your questions.
Visitors stepping into the house in the 16th century were wowed by the heraldry over the fireplace. This symbol, now repainted in its original bright colors, proclaimed the family’s rich lineage and princely stock. The kitchen came with all the circa-1600 conveniences: hay on the floor to add a little warmth and soak up spills; a hanging bread cage to keep food safe from wandering critters; and a good supply of fresh meat in the pantry (take a whiff). Inside the parlor, an interactive display lets you take a closer virtual look at the different parts of the house.
Upstairs, the lady of the house’s bedroom doubled as a sitting room—with a finely carved four-poster bed and a foot warmer by the chair. At night the bedroom’s curtains were drawn to keep in warmth. In the great chamber next door, hearty evening feasting was followed by boisterous gaming, dancing, and music. And fixed above all of this extravagant entertainment was...more heraldry, pronouncing those important—if unproven—family connections and leaving a powerful impact on impressed guests. On the same floor is a well-done exhibit on health and hygiene in medieval Britain—you’ll be grateful you were born a few centuries later.
Cost and Hours: £5.20, or £7.30 combo-ticket with Conwy Castle, includes audioguide, April-Sept Tue-Sun 9:00-17:00, Oct Tue-Sun 9:30-16:00, closed Mon and Nov-March; spooky tours offered on Thu April-Sept at 18:00 and possibly 19:30, tel. 01492/580-167, www.cadw.wales.gov.uk.
St. Mary’s Parish Church—Sitting lonely in the town center, Conwy’s church was the centerpiece of a Cistercian abbey that stood here a century before the town or castle. The Cistercians were French monks who built their abbeys in places “far from the haunts of man.” Popular here because they were French—that is, not English—the Cistercians taught locals farming and mussel-gathering techniques. Edward moved the monks 12 miles upstream but kept the church for his town. Find the tombstone of a survivor of the 1805 Battle of Trafalgar who died in 1860 (two feet left of the north transept). On the other side of the church, a tomb containing seven brothers and sisters is marked “We Are Seven.” It inspired William Wordsworth to write his poem of the same name. The slate tombstones look new even though many are hundreds of years old; slate weathers better than marble.
Cost and Hours: Free, cemetery always open. If the church is open, pop in; otherwise, you may be able to obtain the church key next door from the vicarage (generally available June-Aug Mon-Fri 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-16:00) or visit before or after Sunday services at 8:00 and 11:00 (tel. 01492/593-402).
Llandudno—This genteel Victorian beach resort, a few miles away, is bigger and better known than Conwy. It was built after the advent of railroads, which made the Welsh seacoast easily accessible to the English industrial heartland. In the 1800s, the notion that bathing in seawater was good for your health was trendy, and the bracing sea air was just what the doctor ordered. These days, Llandudno remains popular with the English, but you won’t see many other foreigners strolling its long pier and line of old-time hotels.
Hill Climb—For lovely views across the bay to Llandudno, take a pleasant walk (40 minutes one-way) along the footpath up Conwy Mount (follow Sychnant Pass Road past the Bryn B&B, look for fields on the right and a sign with a stick figure of a walker).
No one goes to Conwy for wild nightlife. Nearby Llandudno (described earlier) has the fun you’d expect at a Coney-Island-type beach resort. But there are some typically Welsh diversions here.
Music—The Conwy Folk Music Club plays at the Royal British Legion Club off Church Street Mondays at 20:30 (free, doors open at 20:00). Catch a rehearsal or concert by the men’s choir from nearby Llandudno (rehearsals—free, Mon 19:30-21:00 except Aug, at Maelgwn School in Llandudno Junction; concerts—£5, some Thu at 19:30 or 20:00 May-Oct, at St. John’s Church, between the two Marks & Spencer stores on Mostyn Street; they also perform at other churches, so call for schedule—tel. 01248/681-159, www.maelgwn.co.uk).
Bingo—Conwy’s former cinema is now the Bingo Palace, where a crowd of very serious bingo players gathers nearly every evening. Visitors simply fill out a free membership card and buy in. Don’t show up after 19:15, because you can’t start late. As the woman announcer calls numbers with her mesmerizing tune (“eight and seven...eighty-seven; all the twos...twenty-two; only five...number five”), intense, dressed-up old ladies play blot-the-numbers. The tension breaks each time someone calls “Line!” (the British version of yelling “Bingo!”). It’s keyed in with a national game, so you can really win big here. Note: As posted, “If you bring your own teabag, you’ll still have to pay 40p” (£5-19 to play depending on the day and number of cards, Thu-Tue doors open at 18:00, Sat at 13:00, no bingo on Wed, across from Castle Hotel at 10 High Street, tel. 01492/592-376).
(area code: 01492)
Conwy’s hotels are overpriced, but its B&Bs include some good-value gems. Nearly all have free parking (ask when booking), and most are happy to accommodate dietary needs in their breakfast offers (the local butcher, who supplies many of these B&Bs, even makes gluten-free sausages). There’s no launderette in town.
$$$ Castle Hotel, along the main drag, rents 28 elegant rooms where Old World antique furnishings mingle with modern amenities. Peter and Bobbi Lavin, along with sons Joe and Gareth, are eager to make your stay comfortable (Sb-£85-95, Db-£140-180, rates vary depending on room size and day of the week, prices lower in off-season—check website, 10 percent discount if you show this book at check-in, free Wi-Fi, High Street, tel. 01492/582-800, fax 01492/582-300, www.castlewales.co.uk, mail@castlewales.co.uk). The hotel has a recommended restaurant and a bar.
$$ Gwynfryn B&B rents five bright, airy rooms, each with eclectic decor, a DVD player, and access to a DVD library. The location is dead center in Conwy. It has a plush lounge, and out back there’s a small patio for pleasant breakfasts in good weather (D with private bath across the hall-£65-70, Db-£65-80, price depends on season and room size, £5 extra for 1-night stays, no children under 12, fridges in rooms, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, self-catering cottage for 4 also available, 4 York Place, on the lane off Lancaster Square, tel. 01492/576-733, mobile 07947-272-821, www.gwynfrynbandb.co.uk, info@gwynfrynbandb.co.uk, energetic Monica and Colin).
$$ The Town House B&B is a colorful place renting five tidy, bright, updated rooms near the train and bus stops, with the old city walls just across the street (S-£45, D-£65, Db-£70-75, Tb-£100, £5 extra for 1-night stays, no children under 12, free Wi-Fi, DVD library, free parking, 18 Rosehill Street, tel. 01492/596-454, mobile 07974-650-609, www.thetownhousebb.co.uk, thetownhousebb@aol.com, friendly Alan and Elaine Naughton and shy sheepdog Glen).
The first three options are a two-minute walk from Conwy’s old town wall; the hostel is about 10 minutes beyond.
$$$ Castlebank Hotel is a small hotel with nine spacious rooms, a small bar, and an inviting lounge with a wood-burning fireplace that makes the Welsh winter cozy. Owners Jo and Henrique have done a heroic job of rehabilitating a formerly dumpy hotel into a dolled-up and comfortable home away from home (S-£40, Sb-£55-85, Db-£75-90, Tb-£95, price depends on season, 10 percent discount with this book for 2 or more nights—except on Bank Holiday and festival weekends, check website for deals, dinner available Fri-Sat by reservation, family rooms, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, DVD library, easy parking, closed first 3 weeks in Jan, just outside town wall at Mount Pleasant, tel. 01492/593-888, www.castlebankhotel.co.uk, bookings@castlebankhotel.co.uk).
$$ Bryn B&B offers four large, clutter-free rooms (and one small one) with castle or mountain views in a big 19th-century house with the city wall literally in the backyard. Owner Alison Archard runs the place with style and energy, providing all the thoughtful touches—a library of regional guides and maps; a glorious garden; fresh, organic food for breakfast; and a very warm welcome (small Sb-£45, Sb-£55, Db-£75, Tb-£95, £5 extra for 1-night stays, ground-floor room available, free Wi-Fi, parking, on the right just outside upper gate of wall on Sychnant Pass Road, tel. 01492/592-449, www.bryn.org.uk, stay@bryn.org.uk).
$ Llys Llewelyn B&B has five basic budget rooms in need of a little TLC. But the great prices—along with the humor and pleasant nature of Alan Hughes, who’s in his 70s and still a top-notch ski instructor—make this a fine value (Sb-£35, top-floor D-£40, Db-£50, 10 percent discount with this book, includes continental breakfast, cooked vegetarian breakfast for £2-5 extra, free Wi-Fi, cash only, easy parking, Mount Pleasant, tel. 01492/593-257, www.llewelynbandb.co.uk, llewelynbandb@yahoo.co.uk).
$ Conwy Hostel, welcoming travelers of any age, has super views from all 24 of its rooms and a spacious garden. Rooms are equipped with bunk beds, sleep two to four people, and have a full bathroom. The airy dining hall and glorious rooftop deck make you feel like you’re in the majestic midst of Wales (beds in 4-bed rooms-£19-28/person, Db-£45-55, depends on season and age—under 18 is cheaper, members pay £3 less, breakfast-£5, Internet access and Wi-Fi, laundry, lockers, lunches and dinners, bar, elevator, parking, no lock-out times but office closed 10:30-14:00, Sychnant Pass Road, in Larkhill, tel. 01492/593-571, fax 01492/593-580, www.yha.org.uk, conwy@yha.org.uk). It’s a 10-minute uphill walk from the upper gate of Conwy’s wall.
$$ Glan Heulog Guest House offers seven fresh, bright rooms, an inviting lounge, and a pleasant, enclosed sun porch. Practice speaking Welsh with your host, Stanley (Sb-£35-40, Db-£56-68, Tb-£85, price depends on room size, ask about healthy breakfast option, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, will pick up from train station, a 10-minute walk from town on Llanrwst Road on the way to Betws-y-Coed, tel. 01492/593-845, www.snowdoniabandb.co.uk, info@snowdoniabandb.co.uk, Stan and Viv Watson-Jones).
$$ Whinward House, a half-mile west of Conwy’s town walls, works well for drivers. Because their three rooms lack any B&B formality—and because Chris and Janis quickly make you feel at home—staying here feels like sleeping in the spare room of old friends. Guests are encouraged to relax in the sunlit living room and the large garden. Hiking trails, two pubs, a marina, and a golf course are all within a short walk (Sb-£70, Db-£80, free Wi-Fi, laundry service available, DVD library, will pick up from train station, Whinacres, tel. 01492/573-275, www.whinwardhouse.co.uk, whinwardhouse@aol.com). From the north gate in Conwy’s town wall, head straight out along Bangor Road; after a minute’s drive, turn right just before an overhead railroad bridge. Turn immediately right again onto Whinacres. It’s up about 200 yards on the left.
(See “Conwy Hotels & Restaurants” map, here)
All of these places are inside Conwy’s walled old town. For dinner, consider strolling down High Street, comparing the cute teahouses and workaday eateries. Most pubs serve food, but none in town is currently worth recommending.
Watson’s Bistro, tucked away on Chapel Street, serves freshly prepared modern and traditional Welsh cuisine in a warm wood-floor-and-exposed-beam setting. Dishes on the inventive menu are made from locally sourced ingredients and well worth the splurge (£9-13 lunches, £15-20 dinners, lunch served Tue-Sun 12:00-15:00, closed for lunch on Mon, dinner served daily 17:30-20:30, April-Sept until 21:30, reservations smart, tel. 01492/596-326).
Dawson’s Cuisine, in the recommended Castle Hotel, is a hit with locals. The hotel bar has the same menu with a cozier and less formal ambience (£14-19 main courses, food served daily in the bar 12:00-21:30, restaurant 18:30-21:30, reservations smart for both bar and restaurant—especially on weekends, High Street, tel. 01492/582-800).
Amélie’s, named for the French film, is a bistro with tasty modern dishes in a relaxed loft overlooking High Street (£4-8 lunches, £14-18 dinners; lunch Tue-Sat 11:00-14:15, closed Sun-Mon; dinner Thu-Sat 18:00-21:15, closed Sun-Wed; 10 High Street, tel. 01492/583-142).
Alfredo Restaurant, a thriving and family-friendly place right on Lancaster Square, serves good, reasonably priced Italian food (£8-10 pizzas and pastas, £14-20 main courses, daily 18:00-22:00, Sun until 21:30, reservations recommended on weekends, York Place, tel. 01492/592-381, Christine).
Conwy Pantry dishes up cheap, hearty daily specials, salads, and homemade sweets in a cheery setting (£4-7 lunches, daily 10:00-17:00, until 16:30 in winter, 26 High Street, tel. 01492/596-445).
Anna’s Tea Rooms, a frilly, doily, very feminine-feeling eatery located upstairs in the masculine-feeling Conwy Outdoor Shop, is popular with locals (£3-8 lunches and teas, daily 10:00-17:00, 9 Castle Street, tel. 01492/580-908).
Fish-and-Chips: At the bottom of High Street, on the intersecting Castle Street, are two chippies—The Galleon (mid-March-Oct Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-19:00; mid-July-mid-Sept daily until 19:00, closed Nov-mid-March, tel. 01492/593-391) and Fisherman’s (daily May-Nov 11:30-20:00, July-Aug until 21:00, Dec-April 11:30-19:30, tel. 01492/593-792). Archway Fish & Chips, at the top of town just inside Bangor Gate, is open later and has both a restaurant and a to-go operation (Mon-Thu 11:30-20:00, takeout until 22:30, Fri-Sun 11:30-20:30, takeout until 23:00, 10-14 Bangor Road, tel. 01492/592-458). Consider taking your fish-and-chips down to the harbor and sharing it with the noisy seagulls.
Picnics: The Spar grocery is conveniently located and well-stocked (daily 7:00-22:00, middle of High Street). Several other shops on High Street—including the bakery and the butcher nearby—sell meat pies and other microwaveables that can quickly flesh out a sparse picnic.
If you want to leave Conwy by train, be sure the schedule indicates the train can stop there, and then wave as it approaches; for more frequent trains, go to Llandudno Junction (see “Arrival in Conwy,” earlier). For train info, call 0871-200-2233, or see www.traveline-cymru.info. If hopping around by bus, simply buy the £6.40 Red Rover Ticket from the driver, and you’re covered for the entire day on all Arriva buses. Remember, all connections are less frequent on Sundays.
From Conwy by Bus to: Llandudno Junction (4/hour, 5 minutes), Caernarfon (2-4/hour, some change in Bangor, 1.25 hours), Betws-y-Coed (hourly, 45 minutes), Blaenau Ffestiniog (hourly Mon-Sat, 1.25 hours, transfer in Llandudno Junction to bus #X1, also stops in Betws-y-Coed, #X1 does not run on Sun; train is better—see below), Beddgelert (8/day Mon-Sat, 2/day on Sun, 1.75 hours total, transfer in Caernarfon), Llangollen (5/day, 2.5-4.5 hours, 2 transfers).
From Conwy by Train to: Llandudno Junction (nearly hourly, 4 minutes), Chester (nearly hourly, 50 minutes), Holyhead (nearly hourly, 1 hour), London’s Euston Station (nearly hourly, 3.25 hours, transfer in Chester or Crewe).
From Llandudno Junction by Train to the Conwy Valley: Take the train to Llandudno Junction, where you’ll board the scenic little Conwy Valley line, which runs up the pretty Conwy Valley to Betws-y-Coed and Blaenau Ffestiniog (5/day Mon-Sat, 3/day on Sun in summer, no Sun trains in winter, 30 minutes to Betws-y-Coed, 1 hour to Blaenau Ffestiniog, www.conwy.gov.uk/cvr). If your train from Conwy to Llandudno Junction is late and you miss the Conwy Valley connection, tell a station employee at Llandudno Junction, who can arrange a taxi for you. Your taxi is free, as long as the missed connection is the Conwy train’s fault and the next train doesn’t leave for more than an hour (common on the infrequent Conwy Valley line).
From Llandudno Junction by Train to: Chester (2-3/hour, 1 hour), Birmingham (1-2/hour, 2.5-3 hours, 1-2 transfers), London’s Euston Station (5/day direct, 3 hours, more with changes in Chester and Crewe).
These two attractions are south of Conwy, on the route to Betws-y-Coed and Snowdonia National Park. Note that Bodnant Garden is on the east side of the River Conwy, on the A-470, and Trefriw is on the west side, along the B-5106. To see them both, you’ll cross the river at Tal-y-Cafn.
This sumptuous 80-acre display of floral color six miles south of Conwy is one of Britain’s best gardens. Originally the private garden of the stately Bodnant Hall, this lush landscape was donated by the Bodnant family (who still live in the house) to the National Trust in 1949. The map you receive upon entering suggests a handy walking route. The highlight for many is the famous “Laburnum Arch”—a 180-foot-long canopy made of bright-yellow laburnum, hanging like stalactites over the heads of garden lovers who stroll beneath it (just inside the entry, blooms late May through early June). The garden is also famous for its magnolias, rhododendrons, camellias, and roses—and for the way that the buildings of the estate complement the carefully planned landscaping. The wild English-style plots seem to spar playfully with the more formal, Italian-style gardens. Consider your visit an extravagantly beautiful nature hike, and walk all the way to the old mill and waterfall.
Cost and Hours: £9, March-Oct daily 10:00-17:00, shorter hours off-season, last entry 30 minutes before closing, closed mid-Nov-late Dec, café, WCs in parking lot and inside garden, best in spring, check online to see what’s blooming, tel. 01492/650-460, www.bodnant-garden.co.uk.
Getting There: To reach the garden by public transportation from Conwy, first head to the Llandudno Junction train station, then catch bus #25 (hourly Mon-Sat but just 3/day Sun) toward Eglwysbach, which takes you right to the garden in about 20 minutes.
At Trefriw (TREV-roo), five miles north of Betws-y-Coed, you can peek into a working woolen mill. It’s surprisingly interesting and rated ▲ if the machines are running (weekdays Easter-Oct).
This mill buys wool from local farmers, and turns it into scarves, sweaters, bedspreads, caps, and more. You can peruse the finished products in the shop (daily April-Oct 9:30-17:30, Nov-March Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, closed Sun). The whole complex creates its own hydroelectric power; the “turbine house” in the cellar lets you take a peek at the enormous, fiercely spinning turbines, dating from the 1930s and 1940s, powered by streams that flow down the hillside above the mill (same hours as shop). The weaving looms, with bobbin-loaded shuttles flying to and fro, allow you to watch a bedspread being created before your eyes (mid-Feb-mid-Dec Mon-Fri 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-17:00).
But the highlight is the working museum, which follows the 11 stages of wool transformation: blending, carding, spinning, doubling, hanking, spanking, warping, weaving, and so on. Follow a matted glob of fleece on its journey to becoming a fashionable cap or scarf. It’s impressive that this Rube Goldberg-type process was so ingeniously designed and coordinated in an age before computers (mostly the 1950s and 1960s)—each machine seems to “know” how to do its rattling, clattering duty with amazing precision (some but not all machines are likely running at any one time; Easter-Oct Mon-Fri 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-17:00, closed Sat-Sun, closed Nov-Easter because they don’t heat it in winter). In the summer, the hand-spinning house (next to the WC) has a charming spinster and a petting cupboard filled with all the various kinds of raw wool that can be spun into cloth (June-Sept only, Tue-Thu 10:00-17:00, closed Fri-Mon).
The grade school next door is busy with rambunctious Welsh-speaking kids—fun to listen to at recess.
The woolen mill at Penmachno (also near Betws-y-Coed) is smaller and much less interesting.
Cost and Hours: Free, variable hours for the different parts of the mill (see above); tel. 01492/640-462, www.t-w-m.co.uk.
Getting There: Buses #19 and #X19 go from Conwy and Llandudno Junction right to Trefriw (hourly, daily, 30 minutes).
Charming little Beaumaris is on the Isle of Anglesey (“Ynys Môn” in Welsh), about a 40-minute drive from Conwy, and a short detour from the route to Caernarfon. (The otherwise sleepy island has been in the news since Prince William and Kate moved to the Royal Air Force base here for his job as a search-and-rescue helicopter pilot.) The town of Beaumaris originated, like other castle towns, as an English “green zone” in the 13th century surrounded by Welsh guerrillas. Today, it feels workaday Welsh, with a fine harborfront, lots of colorful shops and eateries, a fascinating Victorian prison (now a museum), and the remains of an idyllic castle. Around the castle are putt-putt-type amusements for the family and a swan-filled moat.
Beaumaris has no tourist information center, but the island’s TI is in the town of Llanfairpwll, where the modern A-55 bridge crosses the strait. This is just a nickname; the town’s real name is (no kidding)Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysil iogogogoch—the second-longest place name in the world. Town signs make for good photo ops...if you have a wide-angle lens (TI open Mon-Sat 9:30-17:00, Sun 9:30-16:30, Holyhead Road, tel. 01248/713-177, www.visitanglesey.co.uk).
Getting There: If driving, simply follow signs toward Holyhead, and immediately after crossing the big bridge onto the island, take the small coastal A-545 highway for 10 minutes into Beaumaris.
Beaumaris Gaol—The jail opened in 1829 as a result of new laws designed to give prisoners more humane treatment; it remained in use until 1878. Under this “modern” ethic, inmates had their own cells, women prisoners were kept separate and attended by female guards, and prisoners worked to pay for their keep rather than suffer from jailers bilking their families for favors. This new standard of incarceration is the subject of this fascinating museum, where you’ll see the prisoners’ quarters, work yard, punishment cells, whipping rack, treadmill, and chapel.
Cost and Hours: £4.50, includes audioguide, Easter-Oct Sat-Thu 10:30-17:00, closed Fri and most days in off-season, last entry 30 minutes before closing, tel. 01248/810-921.
▲Beaumaris Castle—Begun in 1295, Beaumaris was the last link in King Edward’s “Iron Chain” of castles to enclose Gwynedd, the rebellious former kingdom of North Wales. The site has no natural geological constraints like those that encumbered the castle designers at Caernarfon and Conwy, so its wall-within-a-wall design is almost perfectly concentric. The result is one of Britain’s most beautiful castles. While Beaumaris shows medieval castle engineering at its best—four rings of defense, a moat, and a fortified dock—problems in Scotland changed the king’s priorities. Construction stopped in 1330, and the castle was never finished. It looks ruined, but it was never ransacked or destroyed—it’s simply unfinished. The site was overgrown until the last century, but today it’s like a park; look for information boards explaining the architect’s vision.
Cost and Hours: £3.80; March-Oct daily 9:30-17:00, July-Aug until 18:00; Nov-Feb Mon-Sat 10:00-16:00, Sun 11:00-16:00; last entry 30 minutes before closing, tel. 01248/810-361, www.beaumaris.com.
Menai Suspension Bridge—The Isle of Anglesey is connected to the mainland by one of the engineering marvels of its day, the Menai Suspension Bridge. Designed by Thomas Telford and finished in 1826, at 580 feet it was the longest bridge of its day. It was built to be 100 feet above sea level at high tide—high enough to let Royal Navy ships sail beneath. With the Act of Union of 1800, London needed to be better connected to Dublin. And, as the economy of the island of Anglesey was mainly cattle farming (cows had to literally swim the Straits of Menai to get to market), there was a local need for this bridge. When it opened, the bridge cut the travel time from London to Holyhead from 36 to 27 hours. Most drivers today take the modern A-55 highway bridge, but the historic bridge still handles local traffic.
The small, lively little town of Caernarfon (kah-NAR-von) is famous for its striking castle—the place where the Prince of Wales is “invested” (given his title). Like Conwy, it has an Edward I garrison town marching out from the castle; it still follows the original, medieval grid plan laid within its well-preserved ramparts.
Caernarfon is mostly a 19th-century town. At that time, the most important thing in town wasn’t the castle but the area that sprawls below the castle (now a parking lot). This was once a booming slate port, shipping tidy bundles of slate from North Wales mining towns to roofs all over Europe.
The statue of local boy David Lloyd George looks over the town square. A member of Parliament from 1890 to 1945, he was the most important politician Wales ever sent to London, and ultimately became Britain’s prime minister during the last years of World War I. Young Lloyd George began his career as a noisy nonconformist Liberal advocating Welsh rights. He ended up an eloquent spokesperson for the nation of Great Britain, convincing his slate-mining constituents that only as part of the Union would their industry boom.
Caernarfon bustles with shops, cafés, and people. Market-day activities fill its main square on Saturdays year-round; a smaller, sleepier market yawns on Monday from late May to September. The charming town is worth a wander.
The small, walled old town of Caernarfon spreads out from its waterfront castle, its outer flanks fringed with modern sprawl (pop. 10,000). The main square, called Castle Square (“Y Maes” in Welsh), is fronted by the castle (with the TI across from its entry on Castle Street) and a post office. Public WCs are off the main square, on the road down to the riverfront and parking lot, where you’ll find a bike-rental shop.
The TI, facing the castle entrance, has a wonderful free town map/guide (with a good self-guided town walk) and train and bus schedules. The staff cheerfully dispenses tips about all the North Wales attractions, sells hiking books and maps, and books rooms here and elsewhere for a £2 fee (April-Oct daily 9:0-16:30; Nov-March Mon-Sat 10:00-15:30, closed Sun; tel. 01286/672-232, www.visitsnowdonia.info).
If you arrive by bus, walk straight ahead up to the corner at Bridge Street, turn left, and walk two short blocks until you hit the main square and the castle. Drivers can park in the lot along the riverfront quay below the castle (£4/day) or follow signs as you enter town to a covered garage. The big lot under the Morrison Supermarket (near Victoria Dock) has free parking.
Internet Access: Get wired at the public library (£1/30 minutes for terminals, free Wi-Fi, Mon-Tue and Thu-Fri 9:30-19:00, Wed and Sat 9:30-13:00, closed Sun, just around the corner from Bridge Street—between the castle and the recommended Celtic Royal Hotel, tel. 01286/679-463, www.gwynedd.gov.uk/library).
Laundry: Pete’s Launderette hides at the end of Skinner Street, a narrow lane branching off the main square (same-day full-service-£7/load, Mon-Thu 9:00-18:00, Fri-Sat 9:00-17:30, Sun 11:00-16:00, tel. 01286/678-395, Pete and Monica).
Bike Rental: Beics Menai Cycles rents good bikes on the riverfront, near the start of a handy bike path (£15/2 hours, £17/4 hours, £19/6 hours, £22/8 hours; includes helmet, lock, and map of suggested routes; Easter-Sept daily 9:00-17:00; Oct-Easter Mon-Sat 9:30-16:30, closed Sun; 1 Slate Quay—across the parking lot from the lot’s payment booth, tel. 01286/676-804, mobile 07770-951-007). One of their suggested routes is 12 miles down an old train track—now a bike path—through five villages to Bryncir and back (figure 4 hours for the 24-mile round-trip).
Local Guide: Donna Goodman leads private day trips of North Wales (£180/day, book in advance, tel. 01286/677-059, mobile 07946-163-906, www.turnstone-tours.co.uk, info@turnstone-tours.co.uk). She also leads town walks each Wednesday evening through the summer (£5, July-Aug only at 18:30, meet at the Galeri Creative Enterprise Centre at Victoria Dock); she may be offering historical tours on Tuesday and Thursday mornings at 10:00 (July-Aug only, call to confirm).
Harbor Cruise: Narrated cruises on the Queen of the Sea run daily in summer (£6; May-Oct 11:00 or 12:00 until 17:00 or 18:00—depending on weather, tides, and demand; 40 minutes, castle views, mobile 07979-593-483, www.menaicruises.co.uk).
Welsh Choir: If you’re spending a Tuesday night here, drop by the weekly practice of the local men’s choir (Tue at 19:30 in Galeri Creative Enterprise Centre at Victoria Dock, no practice in Aug, just outside the old town walls, tel. 01286/677-404, www.cormeibioncaernarfon.org/eng; good to call ahead or fill in web form if you want to attend).
A Taste of Wales: For a store selling all things Welsh—books, movies, music, and more—check out Na-Nog on the main square (Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, closed Sun, 16 Castle Square, tel. 01286/676-946).
Crabs on the Quay: As is the case in neighboring harbor towns, a popular family activity is capturing, toying with, then releasing little crabs (under the castle, along the harbor).
▲▲Caernarfon Castle—Edward I built this impressive castle 700 years ago to establish English rule over North Wales. Rather than being purely defensive, it also had elements of a palace—where Edward and his family could stay on visits to Wales. Modeled after the striped, angular walls of ancient Constantinople, the castle, though impressive, was never finished and never really used. From the inner courtyard, you can see the notched walls ready for more walls—which were never built.
The castle’s fame derives from its physical grandeur and its association with the Prince of Wales. Edward got the angry Welsh to agree that if he presented them with “a prince, born in Wales, who spoke not a word of English,” they would submit to the Crown. In time, Edward had a son born in Wales (here in Caernarfon), who spoke not a word of English, Welsh, or any other language—as an infant. In modern times, as another political maneuver, the Prince of Wales has been “invested” (given his title) here. This “tradition” actually dates only from the 20th century, and only two of the 21 Princes of Wales (Prince Charles, the current prince, and King Edward VIII) have taken part.
Cost and Hours: £5.25; March-Oct daily 9:30-17:00, July-Aug until 18:00; Nov-Feb Mon-Sat 10:00-16:00, Sun 11:00-16:00; last entry 30 minutes before closing, tel. 01286/677-617, www.cadw.wales.gov.uk.
Tours: To bring the stones to life, catch the £2.50 guided tour (50-minute tours leave on the hour—and occasionally, with demand, on the half-hour—from the courtyard steps just beyond the ticket booth; if you’re late, ask to join one in progress). Local guide Martin de Lewandowicz gives mind-bending tours of the castle (tel. 01286/674-369).
Visiting the Castle: Despite its unfinished state, the castle is fun to climb around. In the huge Eagle Tower (on the seaward side, to the far right as you enter), see the ground-floor “Prospect of Caernarfon” history exhibit (look for the model of the original castle); watch the 23-minute movie (The Eagle and the Dragon, a broad mix of Welsh legend and history enthusiastically enacted by an elfin narrator, shown upstairs on the hour and half-hour); and climb the tower for a great view.
The nearby Chamberlain’s Tower and Queen’s Tower (ahead and to the right as you enter) house the mildly interesting Museum of the Royal Welsh Fusiliers—a military branch made up entirely of Welshmen. The museum shows off medals, firearms, uniforms, and information about various British battles and military strategies. The Northeast Tower, at the opposite end of the castle (to the left as you enter), has a “Princes of Wales” exhibit highlighting the investiture of Prince Charles in 1969.
Narrow-Gauge Steam Train—The Welsh Highland Railway steam train billows scenically through the countryside south from Caernarfon along the original line that served a slate quarry, crossing the flanks of Mount Snowdon en route. The trip to Beddgelert makes a fine joyride; to save an hour, ride the train one-way, look around, and catch bus #S4 back to Caernarfon. But steam-train enthusiasts will want to ride all the way to Porthmadog, and in high season, can even loop from there back up to Conwy with a ride on the Ffestiniog Railway steam train and Conwy Valley line—check schedules online (Caernarfon to Beddgelert—£16.80 one-way, £25.20 round-trip, 2-3 trips/day, 1.5 hours; Caernarfon to Porthmadog—£22 one-way, £33 round-trip, 2-3 trips/day, 2.5 hours, late March-Oct, tel. 01766/516-000, www.festrail.co.uk.)
Segontium Roman Fort—Dating from A.D. 77, this ruin is the westernmost Roman fort in Britain. It was manned for more than 300 years to keep the Welsh and the coast quiet. Little is left but foundations (the stone was plundered to help build Edward I’s castle at Caernarfon), and any artifacts that are found end up in Cardiff.
Cost and Hours: Free, Tue-Sun 10:30-16:30, closed Mon, 20-minute walk from town, atop a steep hill on A-4085, drivers follow signs to Beddgelert-Waunfawr, www.cadw.wales.gov.uk.
Horseback Riding—To ride a pony or horse, try Snowdonia Riding Stables (£20/hour, £45/half-day mountain ride, 3 miles from Caernarfon, off the road to Beddgelert, bus #S4 from Caernarfon, tel. 01286/650-342, www.snowdoniaridingstables.co.uk, info@snowdoniaridingstables.co.uk).
(£1 = about $1.60, country code: 44, area code: 01286)
My listings favor traditional hotels and B&Bs, but if you’re looking for a big hotel with cheap rooms, consider Caernarfon’s branches of Premier Inn (www.premierinn.com) and Travelodge (www.travelodge.co.uk).
$$$ Celtic Royal Hotel rents 110 large, comfortable rooms and includes a restaurant, gym, pool, hot tub, and sauna; some top-floor rooms have castle views. Its grand, old-fashioned look comes with modern-day conveniences—but it’s still overpriced (Sb-£84, Db-£120, extra bed-£20, discounts for 2 or more nights, bar, restaurant; on Bangor Street; tel. 01286/674-477, fax 01286/674-139, www.celtic-royal.co.uk, reservations@celtic-royal.co.uk).
$$ Caer Menai B&B (“Fort of the Menai Strait”) rents seven classy rooms one block from the harbor (Sb-£30-45, Db-£50-68, family room-£78-85, ask for seaview room, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, 15 Church Street, tel. 01286/672-612, www.caermenai.co.uk, info@caermenai.co.uk, Karen and Mark). Church Street is two blocks from the castle and the TI; with your back to the TI, turn right at the nearest corner and walk down Shirehall Street, which becomes Church Street after one block.
$$ Victoria House B&B, next door to the Caer Menai, rents four airy, fresh, large-for-Britain rooms with nice natural-stone bathrooms and in-room fridges stocked with free soft drinks. Generous breakfasts are served in a pleasant, woody room (Db-£75-85, £5 discount for 2 or more nights, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, guest laptop in lounge, 13 Church Street, tel. 01286/678-263, mobile 07748-098-928, www.thevictoriahouse.co.uk, jan@thevictoriahouse.co.uk, friendly Jan Baker). For directions, see previous listing.
$ Totters Hostel is a creative little hostel well-run by Bob and Henryette (28 beds in 5 dorm rooms, £17/bed with sheets, includes continental breakfast, cash only, couples can have their own twin room when available-£39, beautiful and large top-floor Db-£49, open all day, lockers, welcoming cellar game room, inviting living room, DVD library, kitchen, a block from castle and sea at 2 High Street, tel. 01286/672-963, www.totters.co.uk, totters.hostel@googlemail.com). They also own a three-bedroom house across the street (£100/4 people, £120/6 people—perfect for families, 2-night minimum).
The streets near Caernarfon’s castle teem with inviting eateries. Rather than recommending a particular one, I’ll point you in the direction of several good streets with reasonable options.
“Hole-in-the-Wall Street” (between Castle Square and TI) is lined with several charming cafés and bistros. Nearby, on Palace Street and a stretch of High Street, you’ll find plenty of cheap and cheery sandwich shops and tearooms. The pedestrianized but grubby Pool Street offers several budget options, including the popular J&C’s fish-and-chips joint. In nice weather, several places on the main square have outside tables from which you can watch the people scene while munching your toasted sandwich.
Picnic: For groceries, you’ll find a small Spar supermarket on the main square, an Iceland supermarket near the bus stop, and a huge Morrisons supermarket a five-minute walk from the city center on Bangor Street.
Pub Grub and Fun: The Anglesey Arms is a rough, old, characteristic pub serving basic lunches; it has picnic benches on the harborfront. The place is lively in the evening with darts, pool, and well-lubricated locals, hosting live folk music every other Friday evening from about 21:00 (Harbour Front, tel. 01286/672-158).
Caernarfon is a handy hub for buses into Snowdonia National Park (such as to Llanberis, Beddgelert, and Betws-y-Coed). Bus info: tel. 0871-200-2233, www.gwynedd.gov.uk/bwsgwynedd. And the narrow-gauge steam train provides both sightseeing and transport from Caernarfon to Beddgelert (described earlier).
From Caernarfon by Bus to: Conwy (2-4/hour, some change in Bangor, 1.25 hours), Llanberis (about 2/hour, 25 minutes, bus #88), Beddgelert (8/day Mon-Sat, 2/day on Sun, 30 minutes, bus #S4), Betws-y-Coed (hourly, 1-1.5 hours, 1 transfer), Blaenau Ffestiniog (hourly, 1.5 hours, change in Porthmadog).
This is Britain’s second-largest national park, and its centerpiece—the tallest mountain in Wales or England—is Mount Snowdon (www.eryri-npa.gov.uk). Each year, half a million people ascend one of seven different paths to the top of the 3,560-foot mountain. Hikes take from five to seven hours; if you’re fit and the weather’s good, it’s an exciting day. Trail info abounds (local TIs sell the small £3 book The Ascent of Snowdon, by E. G. Bowland, which describes the routes). As you explore, notice the slate roofs—the local specialty.
The resort center of Snowdonia National Park, Betws-y-Coed (BET-oos-uh-coyd), bursts with tour buses and souvenir shops. This picturesque town is cuddled by wooded hills, made cozy by generous trees, and situated along a striking, waterfall-rippled stretch of the River Conwy. It verges on feeling overly manicured, with uniform checkerboard-stone houses yawning at each other from across a broad central green. There’s little to do here except wander along the waterfalls (don’t miss the old stone bridge—just up the river from the green—with the best waterfall views), have a snack or meal, and go for a walk in the woods.
Stop by Betws-y-Coed’s good National Park Centre/TI, which books rooms for a £2 fee and sells the handy £2 Forest Walks map, outlining five different hikes you can do from here. They show a free 13-minute video with bird’s-eye views of the park (daily Easter-Oct 9:30-17:30, Nov-Easter 9:30-12:30 & 13:30-16:30, tel. 01690/710-426, www.snowdonia-npa.gov.uk). If you have an iPhone, you can download a free audioguide tour of the park from their website (with maps and navigational aids). In summer, you might be able to catch some live entertainment in the TI’s courtyard.
Arrival in Betws-y-Coed: Drivers can follow signs for National Park and i to find the main parking lot by the TI. Trains and buses arrive at the village green; with your back to the station, the TI is to the right of the green.
Nearby: If you drive west out of town on the A-5 (toward Beddgelert or Llanberis), after two miles you’ll see the parking lot for scenic Swallow Falls, a pleasant five-minute walk from the road (£1.50 entry). A half-mile past the falls on the right, you’ll see The Ugly House, built overnight to take advantage of a 15th-century law that let any quickie building avoid fees and taxes.
Betws-y-Coed is connected to Llandudno Junction near Conwy (north, 30 minutes) and Blaenau Ffestiniog (south, 30 minutes) by the Conwy Valley train line (5/day Mon-Sat, 3/day Sun, no Sun trains in winter). Buses connect Betws-y-Coed with Conwy (hourly, 45 minutes), Llanberis (7/day, 45 minutes), Beddgelert (6/day, 1-2 hours, 1-2 changes), Blaenau Ffestiniog (hourly Mon-Sat, none on Sun, 20 minutes; usually bus #X1), and Caernarfon (hourly, 1-1.5 hours, 1 transfer).
This is the quintessential Snowdon village, rated ▲▲ and packing a scenic mountain punch without the tourist crowds (17 miles from Betws-y-Coed). Beddgelert (BETH-geh-lert) is a cluster of stone houses lining a babbling brook in the shadow of Mount Snowdon and her sisters. Cute as a hobbit, Beddgelert will have you looking for The Shire around the next bend. Thanks to the fine variety of hikes from its doorstep and its decent bus service, Beddgelert makes a good stop for those wanting to experience the peace of Snowdonia.
The village doesn’t have real “sights,” but it’s a starting place for some great walks—ask any local for tips. You can follow the lane along the river (3 miles round-trip); walk down the river and around the hill (3 hours, 6 miles, 900-foot gain, via Cwm Bycham); hike along (or around) Llyn Gwynant Lake and four miles back to Beddgelert (ride the bus to the lake); or try the dramatic ridge walks on Moel Hebog (Hawk Hill).
The Welsh Highland Railway serves Beddgelert. This narrow-gauge joyride (12 miles and 1.5 hours to or from Caernarfon) is a popular excursion. Most people ride the train one-way and return by bus (described under “Sights in Caernarfon,” earlier).
Beddgelert clusters around its triple-arch stone bridge. The recommended B&Bs line up single-file along one side of the brook, while the hotels, most eateries, and the TI are on the other side.
The National Park Centre/TI is at the far end of town. If you’re walking from the bridge, it’s several blocks up, on your right. They can suggest tips for walks and hikes (Easter-Oct daily 9:30-17:30; Nov-Easter Fri-Sun 9:30-16:30—but closes for lunch, closed Mon-Thu; tel. 01766/890-615, www.snowdonia-npa.gov.uk or www.beddgelerttourism.com).
Helpful Hints: There’s Internet access inside the TI (£2/hour). For mountain-bike rental, try Beddgelert Bikes (directly under Welsh Highland Railway station, tel. 01766/890-434, www.beddgelertbikes.co.uk).
(£1 = about $1.60, country code: 44, area code: 01766)
The three recommended B&Bs all line up in a row at the bridge. They’re quite different from each other—each seems to fill its own niche. The larger inn (listed first) is across the river.
$$$ Tanronnen Inn has seven hotelesque rooms above a pub that’s been well-renovated from its interior medieval timbers to its exterior stone walls (Sb-£55, Db-£100, discount for longer stays, tel. 01766/890-347, fax 01766/890-606, www.tanronnen.co.uk, guestservice@tanronnen.co.uk).
$$$ Plas Tan y Graig Guest House is the best value in town: seven thoughtfully updated, calming, uncluttered rooms run with care and contemporary style by Tony and Sharon (Sb-£52-54, Db-£82-88 depending on season, 2-night minimum stay, family rooms, fine lounge, free Wi-Fi, beautiful breakfast terrace overlooking the village, packed lunches offered, tel. 01766/890-310, www.plas-tanygraig.co.uk, plastanygraig@googlemail.com).
$$ Plas Gwyn Guest House rents six rooms in a cozy, cheery, 19th-century townhouse with a comfy lounge. Friendly Brian is happy to dispense travel tips (S-£35, Db-£70, 10 percent discount with this book, cash only, packed lunch-£5, free Wi-Fi, tel. 01766/890-215, mobile 07815-549-708, www.plas-gwyn.com, stay@plas-gwyn.com).
$$ Colwyn Guest House has five tight but slick and new-feeling rooms (S or D with private bath down the hall-£35/person, Db-£70, 2-night minimum on weekends, 10 percent discount with this book, cash only, free Internet access in lounge, free Wi-Fi, tel. 01766/890-276, mobile 07774-002-637, www.beddgelertguesthouse.co.uk, colwynguesthouse@tiscali.co.uk, Colleen).
Mountaineers appreciate that Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay practiced here before the first successful ascent of Mount Everest. They slept at $$$ Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel, at the base of the road leading up to the Pen-y-Pass by Mount Snowdon, and today the bar is strewn with fascinating memorabilia from Hillary’s 1953 climb. The 16 rooms, with dingy old furnishings and crampon ambience, are a poor value—aside from the impressive history (S-£42, Sb-£50, D-£84, Db-£100-104, old-time-elegant public rooms, some D rooms share museum-piece Victorian tubs and showers, natural pool and sauna for guests, £25 three-course dinners, £30 grand five-course dinners, tel. 01286/870-211, www.pyg.co.uk, escape@pyg.co.uk).
Lyn’s Café, just across the bridge from the B&Bs, serves nicely done home cookin’ at good prices in a cozy one-room bistro (£3-7 lunches, £8-10 dinners, daily Easter-mid-Sept 9:00-20:30, mid-Sept-Easter 10:00-18:00, closed Jan, tel. 01766/890-374).
The Tanronnen Inn serves up tasty food in an inviting pub setting, with several cozy, atmospheric rooms (£9-14 meals, cheaper snacks, tel. 01766/890-347).
And for Dessert: The Glaslyn Homemade Ice Cream shop (up the road from the Tanronnen Inn) offers good quality and selection.
Beddgelert is connected to Caernarfon by the scenic Welsh Highland Railway (2-3/day, 1.5 hours, no trains off-season) and handy bus #S4 (8/day Mon-Sat, 2/day Sun, 30 minutes). Bus connections to Betws-y-Coed are much less convenient (6/day, 1-2 hours, 1-2 changes). To reach Conwy, it’s generally easiest to transfer in Caernarfon (8/day Mon-Sat, 2/day Sun, 1.75 hours total). Buses to Blaenau Ffestiniog involve one or two transfers (7/day Mon-Sat, 4/day Sun, 1-2.5 hours).
A town of 2,000 people with as many tourists on a sunny day, Llanberis (THLAN-beh-ris) is a popular base for Snowdon activities. Most people prefer to take the train from here to the summit, but Llanberis is also loaded with hikers, as it’s the launchpad for the longest (five miles) but least strenuous hiking route to the Snowdon summit. (Routes from the nearby Pen-y-Pass, between here and Beddgelert, are steeper and even more scenic.)
Llanberis is a long, skinny, rugged, and functional town that feels like a frontier village. Drivers approaching Llanberis will find several parking lots, including one right by the Snowdon Mountain Railway, and a lakeside lot (marked with an i) across the road from the town center and TI.
Tourist Information: The TI, right on the colorful main street (High Street) in the center of the village, sells maps and offers tips for ascending Snowdon (Easter-Sept daily 9:30-16:30, Oct-Easter Mon-Sat 9:30-16:00, closed Sun, 41B High Street, tel. 01286/870-765, www.visitsnowdonia.info).
▲▲Snowdon Mountain Railway—This is the easiest and most popular ascent of Mount Snowdon. You’ll travel five miles from Llanberis to the summit on Britain’s only rack-and-pinion railway (from 1896), likely riding in new 70-person cars and climbing a total of 3,500 feet. The trip takes 2.5 hours, including a 30-minute stop at the top. On the way up, you’ll hear a constant narration on legends, geology, and history. A mountaintop visitors center includes a café. On the way down, there’s only engine noise.
Don’t confuse this with the Welsh Highland Railway (described on here) or the Llanberis Lake Railway, a different (and far less appealing) “Thomas the Tank Engine”-type steam train that fascinates kids and runs to the end of Padarn Lake and back.
Cost and Hours: £25 round-trip, £19 early-bird special for 9:00 departure (must book in advance), first departure often at 9:00, last trip can be as late as 17:00 during peak season. While the schedule flexes with weather and demand, they try to run several trips each day late March through October (up to 2/hour in peak season). The train departs from the station along the main road at the south end of Llanberis’ town center. Until May (or in bad weather), the train may not run all the way to the summit. In that case, tickets are partially refunded or sold at a reduced rate.
Buying Tickets: On sunny summer days—especially in July and August—trains fill up fast. Originally designed for Victorian gentry, these days the train is overrun with commoners, and it’s smart to reserve ahead. You can buy tickets in advance either by going online or calling the booking line after 13:00 (£3.50 reservation fee per party, tel. 0844-493-8120, www.snowdonrailway.co.uk). If you’re trying to buy same-day tickets, show up early—the office opens at 8:30, and on very busy days, tickets can be sold out by midmorning; even if you get one, you may have to wait until afternoon for your scheduled departure time.
Parking: A pay-and-display lot is located at the back of Llanberis Station. You can also turn right after the station onto Victoria Terrace or park in one of several lakeside lots (avoid the Royal Victoria Hotel’s parking lot, which is pricey).
▲▲National Slate Museum—Across the lake from Llanberis yawns a giant slate quarry. To learn more, venture across to this free museum. The well-presented exhibit, displayed around the 19th-century workshop that was used until 1969 to support the giant slate mine above, explains various aspects of this local industry. In addition to a giant water-wheel and the slate-splitting demo (lasts 30 minutes, starts at :15 past each hour), the museum has a little row of modest quarrymen’s houses from different eras, offering a thought-provoking glimpse into their hardy lifestyle. The big, 50-foot-high waterwheel turns a shaft that runs throughout the workshop, powering all the various belt-driven machinery. Historic photo galleries and a 12-minute video re-create what was—until the last generation—a thriving industry employing 3,000 workers. While not as in-depth (literally) as the Llechwedd Slate Mine in Blaenau Ffestiniog, this is as interesting and more convenient.
Cost and Hours: Free entry but £4 parking; Easter-Oct daily 10:00-17:00; Nov-Easter Sun-Fri 10:00-16:00, closed Sat; last entry one hour before closing, tel. 01286/870-630, www.museumwales.ac.uk/en/slate.
Electric Mountain—This attraction offers tours into a power plant burrowed into Elidir Mountain, across the lake from town. After a 10-minute video, you’ll load onto a bus and venture underground into Europe’s biggest hydroelectric power station for a one-hour guided tour.
Cost and Hours: Visitor center-free, tour-£7.75, daily June-Aug 9:30-17:30, Sept-May 10:00-16:30, tours run Easter-Oct about hourly (every 30 minutes when busy), 3-5 tours/day off-season—call for times, wear warm clothes and sturdy shoes, call in advance to reserve a spot, no children under 4, no photos, café, tel. 01286/870-636, www.electricmountain.co.uk.
Llanberis is easiest to reach from Caernarfon (about 2/hour, 25 minutes, bus #88) or Betws-y-Coed (7/day, 45 minutes); from Conwy, transfer in one of these towns (Caernarfon is generally best). While it’s a quick 30-minute drive from Llanberis to Beddgelert, the bus connection is more complicated, requiring a transfer at Pen-y-Pass, on the high road around Mount Snowdon (7/day, 1-1.5 hours).
Blaenau Ffestiniog (BLEH-nigh FES-tin-yog) is a quintessential Welsh slate-mining town, notable for its slate-mine tour and its old steam train. The town—a dark, poor place—seems to struggle on, oblivious to the tourists who nip in and out. Though it’s tucked amidst a pastoral Welsh landscape, Blaenau Ffestiniog is surrounded by a gunmetal-gray wasteland of “tips,” huge mountain-like piles of excess slate.
Take a walk. The shops are right out of the 1950s. Long rows of humble “two-up and two-down” houses (four rooms) feel a bit grim. The train station, bus stop, and parking lot all cluster along a one-block stretch in the heart of town. There’s no TI.
Getting There: Blaenau Ffestiniog is conveniently connected to Betws-y-Coed and Conwy both by the Conwy Valley train line (5/day Mon-Sat, 3/day on Sun in summer, no Sun trains in winter, 30 minutes to Betws-y-Coed, 1 hour to Conwy via Llandudno Junction) and by bus #X1 (hourly Mon-Sat, none on Sun, 20 minutes to Betws-y-Coed, 1 hour to Llandudno Junction near Conwy). By bus, it’s possible to connect with Beddgelert (7/day Mon-Sat, 4/day Sun, 1-2.5 hours, 1-2 transfers) or Caernarfon (hourly, 1.5 hours, 1 transfer).
▲▲Llechwedd Slate-Mine Tour—Slate mining played a blockbuster role in Welsh heritage, and this working slate mine on the northern edge of Blaenau Ffestiniog does a fine job of explaining the mining culture of Victorian Wales. The Welsh mined and split most of the slate roofs of Europe. For every ton of usable slate found, 10 tons were mined. You can wander around its basic exhibit, or join a guided tour. Dress warmly—I mean it. You’ll freeze underground without a sweater. Lines are longer when rain drives in the hikers.
Cost and Hours: Exhibit-£2; tours-£10.25 for one, £16.50 for both; daily April-Sept 9:30-18:00, Oct-March 9:30-17:00; tours run every 10-45 minutes, depending on demand—first tour at 10:30, last tour 45 minutes before closing, cafeteria, pub, tel. 01766/830-306, www.llechwedd-slate-caverns.co.uk.
Getting There: The slate mine is about a mile from the town center. Each arriving train on the Ffestiniog Railway from Porthmadog (described next) is met by bus #X1, which drops you off near the mine entrance (Mon-Sat only, none on Sun). A private bus may also be available to take you to the mine. Unfortunately, buses aren’t timed to meet the more useful Conwy Valley train line from Llandudno Junction and Betws-y-Coed; if you don’t want to wait for a bus, you can walk 30 minutes to the mine or take a taxi (about £5, reserve in advance, tel. 01766/762-465).
Visiting the Mine: The exhibit includes a tiny Victorian mining town, with a miners’ pub and a view from “The Top of the Tip” (closed Nov-March), as well as an engrossing slate-splitting demonstration. While this is generally timed to go with the finish of the tramway tour (explained next), anyone in the general exhibit is welcome to enjoy the demonstration. Don’t miss this—check the posted schedule and plan your visit around it.
For a more in-depth visit, pay to join one or both of the two different 30-minute tours. The “miners’ tramway” tour is a level half-mile train ride with three stops, not much walking, and a live guide. It focuses on working life and traditional mining techniques. The “deep mine” tour descends nearly 500 feet deep into the mountain for an audiovisual dramatization of social life and a half-mile of walking through tunnels and caves with lots of stairs and some uneven footing. The tours overlap slightly, but the combo-ticket makes doing both worth considering.
▲Ffestiniog Railway—This 13-mile narrow-gauge train line was built in 1836 for small horse-drawn wagons to transport the slate from the Ffestiniog mines to the port of Porthmadog. In the 1860s, horses gave way to steam trains. Today, hikers and tourists enjoy these tiny titans (tel. 01766/516-000, www.festrail.co.uk). After recent renovations, this line now connects to the narrow-gauge Welsh Highland Railway from Caernarfon via Porthmadog (see here). This is a novel steam-train experience, but the full-size Conwy Valley line from Llandudno to Blaenau Ffestiniog is more scenic and works a little better for hikers (see here).
Portmeirion—Ten miles southwest of Blaenau Ffestiniog, this “Italian Village” was the life’s work of a rich local architect who began building it in 1925. Set idyllically on the coast just beyond the poverty of the slate-mine towns, this flower-filled fantasy is extravagant. Surrounded by lush Welsh greenery and a windswept mudflat at low tide, the village is an artistic glob of palazzo arches, fountains, gardens, and promenades filled with cafés, tacky shops, a hotel, and local tourists who always wanted to go to Italy. Fans of the cultish British 1960s TV series The Prisoner, which was filmed here, will recognize the place.
Cost and Hours: £10, daily 9:30-19:30, tel. 01766/770-000 www.portmeirion-village.com.
Ruthin (RITH-in; “Rhuthun” in Welsh) is a low-key market town whose charm is in its ordinary Welshness. The town (pop. 5,200) is situated atop a gentle hill surrounded by undulating meadows. Simple streets branch out from the central roundabout (at the former medieval marketplace, St. Peter’s Square) like spokes on a wheel. It’s so untouristy that it has no TI. The market square, jail, museum, bus station, and in-town accommodations are all within five blocks of one another. Ruthin is as Welsh as can be, making it a distinctive stopover on your way to northern England. The people are the sights, and admission is free if you start the conversation.
Ruthin has poor transportation connections to just about everywhere. Skip it unless you have a car.
▲Ruthin Gaol—Get a glimpse into crime and punishment in 17th- to early-20th-century Wales in this 100-cell prison. Explore the “dark” and condemned cells, give the dreaded hand-crank a whirl, and learn about the men, women, and children who did time here before the prison closed in 1916. The included audioguide—partly narrated by a jovial “prisoner” named Will—is very good, informative, and engaging. You’ll find out why prison kitchens came with a cat, why the bathtubs had a severe case of ring-around-the-tub, how they got prisoners to sit still for their mug shots (and why these photos often included the prisoners’ hands), and why the prison was renovated in the “panopticon” style in the late 19th century.
Cost and Hours: £3.50, family-£10, joint ticket with Nantclwyd y Dre-£6.50, April-Oct Wed-Sun 10:00-17:00, closed Mon-Tue and Nov-March, last entry 1 hour before closing, Clwyd Street, tel. 01824/708-281, www.ruthingaol.co.uk.
Nantclwyd y Dre—This Elizabethan-era “oldest timbered townhouse in Wales”—a white-and-brown half-timbered house between the castle and the market square—underwent an award-winning £600,000 renovation (funded partly by the EU) to convert it into a museum. Seven decorated rooms give visitors a peek into the history of the house, which was built in 1435.
Cost and Hours: £3.60, family-£9, joint ticket with Ruthin Gaol-£6.50, April-Sept Fri-Sun 10:00-17:00, last entry 45 minutes before closing, closed Mon-Thu and Oct-March, Castle Street, tel. 01824/709-822, www.denbighshire.gov.uk.
Walks—For a scenic and interesting one-hour walk, try the Offa’s Dyke Path to Moel Famau (the “Jubilee Tower,” a 200-year-old war memorial on a peak overlooking stark moorlands). The trail-head is a 10-minute drive east of Ruthin on the A-494.
▲▲Welsh Choir—The mixed choir usually performs weekly at the Pwllglas Village Hall (Thu 20:00 except Aug, Well Street, tel. 07759/906-506, www.corrhuthun.co.uk).
(£1 = about $1.60, country code: 44, area code: 01824)
For cheap sleeps, you’ll have to stay at the youth hostels in Conwy or Caernarfon. Or, if you’re driving, keep an eye out for rustic hostel-like “bunkhouses” that dot the North Wales countryside. The following not-so-cheap places each have their own individual charm.
$$$ Manorhaus, filling a Georgian building, is Ruthin’s classiest sleeping option. Its eight rooms are impeccably appointed with artsy-contemporary decor, and the halls serve as gallery space for local artists. Guests enjoy use of the sauna, steam room, fitness room, library, and mini-cinema in the cellar. In fact, you could have a vacation and never leave the place. It’s run by Christopher (who played piano for years in London’s West End theaters) and Gavin (an architect and former mayor of Ruthin)—together, it seems, they’ve brought Ruthin a splash of fun and style (Sb-£83-133, standard Db-£135, superior Db-£155, pricier Db suite-£180, check website for deals, no children under 12, free Wi-Fi, recommended restaurant, Well Street, tel. 01824/704-830, fax 01824/707-333, www.manorhaus.com, post@manorhaus.com).
$$ Gorphwysfa Guest House (“Resting Place”) is in a cozy 16th-century Tudor townhouse between the castle and the town square, next door to Ruthin’s oldest house. The three rooms are huge, comfortable, and modern, while the public spaces are grand and Elizabethan—with wattle-and-daub construction, a library, a grand piano, and a breakfast room with a gigantic fireplace (Sb-£40, Db-£65, Tb-£75, Qb-£85, less for 2-night stays, cash only, 8a Castle Street, tel. 01824/707-529, www.ruthinguesthouse.co.uk, marg@gorphwysfa.fsnet.co.uk, Margaret O’Riain).
On the Hill serves hearty £10-16 lunches and £11-20 dinners—mostly made with fresh, local ingredients—to an enthusiastic crowd. The Old World decor complements the good cuisine (lunch Wed-Sat 12:00-14:00, dinner Tue-Sat 18:30-21:00, closed Sun-Mon and for lunch on Tue, 1 Upper Clwyd Street, tel. 01824/707-736).
Manorhaus is the town splurge in a recommended hotel (described above), with updated Welsh and British dinners served in a mod art-gallery space. Eating here—in the care of Christopher and Gavin—is an evening in itself (£26 for two courses, £33 for three courses, dinner served daily 18:30-21:00, reservations recommended, Well Street, tel. 01824/704-830).
Leonardo’s Delicatessen is the place to buy a top-notch gourmet picnic (made-to-order sandwiches, small salad bar, Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00, Sat 9:00-16:30, closed Sun, 4 Well Street, just off the main square, tel. 01824/707-161).
Finn’s is the local favorite for take-away fish-and-chips (£3-5, daily 11:00-21:30, near Ruthin Gaol at the bottom of Clwyd Street, tel. 01824/702-518).
Worth a stop if you have a car, Llangollen (thlang-GOTH-lehn) is a red-brick riverside town that’s equal parts blue collar and touristy. The town is famous for its week-long International Musical Eisteddfod, a very popular and crowded festival held every July, with dance competitions and evening concerts (tel. 01978/862-001, www.international-eisteddfod.co.uk). The enthusiastic TI has the details on these events, scenic steam-train trips, and other attractions (daily 9:30-17:30, until 17:00 in winter, Castle Street, tel. 01978/860-828, www.llangollen.org.uk).
The men’s choir practices traditional Welsh songs weekly on Friday nights (19:30 at the Hand Hotel on Bridge Street, 21:30 pub sing-along afterward, hotel tel. 01978/860-303).
Llangollen’s most interesting attraction is the Llangollen Canal, a narrow, shallow waterway up the hill and across the bridge from the town center. You can stroll along the canal or take one of three different boat rides from Llangollen Wharf: a 45-minute horse-drawn boat down to the Cistercian abbey (£6.50, Easter-Oct daily, hourly from 11:00 in summer, less off-season, tel. 01978/860-702, www.horsedrawnboats.co.uk); a two-hour, motorized canal-boat trip over the remarkable Pontcysyllte aqueduct (£12.50, Easter-Oct daily at 12:15 and 14:00, sometimes also at 10:00, smart to book ahead); or, on weekends, a two-hour horse-drawn boat down to Horseshoe Falls (£11, 11:30 Sat-Sun Easter-Oct only).
If you take a walk or join the horse-drawn canal trip, you’ll reach the lovely 13th-century Cistercian Valle Crucis Abbey (£3, April-Oct daily 10:00-17:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing, closed but free access to grounds Nov-March, tel. 01978/860-326, www.llangollen.com/valle.html). An even older cross, Eliseg’s Pillar, is nearby.
Sleeping in Llangollen: $$ Glasgwm B&B rents four spacious rooms in a Victorian townhouse (Sb-£37.50, Db-£60-70, Abbey Road, tel. 01978/861-975, www.glasgwm-llangollen.co.uk, glasgwm@llangollen.co.uk, John and Heather).
Llangollen Connections: From Llangollen, the bus runs to Conwy (5/day, 2.5-4.5 hours, 2 transfers). More frequent buses connect Llangollen with train stations at Ruabon (about 4/hour, 15 minutes) and Wrexham (4/hour, 35 minutes).
Two major transfer points out of (or into) North Wales are Crewe and Chester. Figure out your complete connection at www.nationalrail.co.uk.
From Crewe by Train to: London’s Euston Station (2/hour, 1.75 hours), Bristol, near Bath (2/hour, 2.5-3 hours), Cardiff (hourly, 2.75 hours), Holyhead (hourly, 2-2.5 hours), Blackpool (hourly, 1.5 hours), Keswick in the Lake District (nearly hourly, 1.75-2.75 hours to Penrith, some via Oxenholme or Manchester; then catch a bus to Keswick, hourly except 8/day Sun, 40 minutes, allow 3.5 hours total), Glasgow (nearly hourly, 3-4 hours, some via Lancaster or Preston).
From Chester by Train to: London’s Euston Station (2/hour, 2 hours), Liverpool (2/hour, 45 minutes), Birmingham (about 2/hour, 1.75 hours); points in North Wales including Conwy (via Llandudno Junction, nearly hourly, 1 hour).
Two companies make the crossing between Holyhead (in North Wales, beyond Caernarfon) and Ireland. Some boats go to Dublin, while others head for Dublin’s southern suburb of Dun Laoghaire (pronounced “Dun Leary”). Stena Line sails from Holyhead to Dublin (2/day, 3.25 hours, plus 2 overnight) and also to Dun Laoghaire (1/day, 2 hours, can book up long in advance on summer weekends, British tel. 0844-770-7070, or book online at www.stenaline.co.uk). Irish Ferries sails to Dublin (4/day—2 slow, 2 fast; plus 1 slow overnight sailing; slow boat 3.25 hours, fast boat 2 hours; reserve online for best fares; Britain tel. 0818-300-400, www.irishferries.com).
Sleeping near Holyhead Dock: On the island of Anglesey, the fine $$ Monravon B&B has five rooms a 15-minute uphill walk from the dock (Sb-£35, Db-£50, family deals, includes continental breakfast, cooked breakfast-£4, free Wi-Fi, Porth-Y-Felin Road, tel. 01407/762-944, www.monravon.co.uk, monravon@yahoo.co.uk, John and Joan).
Sleeping En-Route to Holyhead, Between Liverpool and Conwy: $$ Celyn Villa B&B is a lovely mid-19th-century house on the mainland, with three rooms with views of the Dee estuary (Sb-£40, Db-£60, twin and family rooms available, 2-night minimum July-Aug, free Wi-Fi, dinner available, Carmel Road, tel. 01352/710-853, www.celynvilla.co.uk, celynvilla@btinternet.com, Paulene and Les).
From North Wales to Liverpool (40 miles): From Ruthin or the A-55, follow signs to the town of Mold, then Queensferry, then Manchester M-56, then Liverpool M-53, which tunnels under the River Mersey (£1.50).