Near St. Andrews: The East Neuk
For many, St. Andrews is synonymous with golf. But there’s more to this charming town than its famous links. Dramatically situated at the edge of a sandy bay, St. Andrews is the home of Scotland’s most important university—think of it as the Scottish Cambridge. And centuries ago, the town was the religious capital of the country.
In its long history, St. Andrews has seen two boom periods. First, in the early Middle Ages, the relics of St. Andrew made the town cathedral one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Christendom. The faithful flocked here from all over Europe, leaving the town with a medieval all-roads-lead-to-the-cathedral street plan that survives today. But after the Scottish Reformation, the cathedral rotted away and the town became a forgotten backwater. A new wave of visitors arrived in the mid-19th century, when a visionary mayor named (appropriately enough) Provost Playfair began to promote the town’s connection with the newly in-vogue game of golf. Most buildings in town date from this time (similar to Edinburgh’s New Town).
Today St. Andrews remains a popular spot for both students and golf devotees (including professional golfers and celebrities such as Scotsman Sean Connery, often seen out on the links). With vast sandy beaches, golfing opportunities for pros and novices alike, playgrounds of ruins, a fun-loving student vibe, and a string of relaxing fishing villages nearby (the East Neuk), St. Andrews is an appealing place to take a vacation from your busy vacation.
St. Andrews, hugging the east coast of Scotland, is a bit off the main tourist track. But it’s well-connected by train to Edinburgh (via bus from nearby Leuchars), making it a worthwhile day trip from the capital. Better yet, spend a night (or more, if you’re a golfer) to enjoy this university town after dark.
If you’re not here to golf, this is a good way to spend a day: Follow my self-guided walk, which connects the golf course, the university quad, the castle, and the cathedral. Dip into the Golf Museum, watch the golfers on the Old Course, and play a round at “the Himalayas” putting green. With more time, walk along the West Sands beach or take a spin by car or bus to the nearby East Neuk.
St. Andrews (pop. 16,000), situated at the tip of a peninsula next to a broad bay, retains its old medieval street plan: Three main roads (North Street, Market Street, and South Street) converge at the cathedral, which overlooks the sea at the tip of town. The middle of these streets—Market Street—has the TI and many handy shops and eateries. North of North Street, the seafront street called The Scores connects the cathedral with the golf scene, which huddles along the West Sands beach at the base of the old town. St. Andrews is enjoyably compact: You can stroll across town—from the cathedral to the historic golf course—in about 15 minutes.
St. Andrews’ helpful TI is on Market Street, about two blocks in front of the cathedral (July-Aug Mon-Sat 9:15-18:00, Sun 10:00-17:00; April-June and Sept-mid-Oct Mon-Sat 9:15-17:00, Sun 11:00-16:00; mid-Oct-March Mon-Sat 9:15-17:00, closed Sun; 70 Market Street, tel. 01334/472-021, www.visitfife.com or www.visitscotland.com). Pick up their stack of brochures on the town and region, and ask about other tours (such as ghost walks or witches walks). They also have Internet access (£1/20 minutes) and can find you a room for a £4 fee.
By Train and Bus: The nearest train station is in the village of Leuchars, five miles away. From there, a 10-minute bus ride takes you right into St. Andrews (£2.05, driver gives change for small bills; buses meet most trains, see schedule at bus shelter for next bus to St. Andrews; while waiting, read the historical info under the nearby flagpole). St. Andrews’ bus station is near the base of Market Street. To reach most B&Bs, turn left out of the station, right at the roundabout, and look for Murray Park on the left. To reach the TI, turn right out of the station, then take the next left and head up Market Street. A taxi from Leuchars into St. Andrews costs about £12.
By Car: For a short stay, drivers can simply head into the town center and park anywhere along the street. Easy-to-use meters dispense stickers (£1/hour, coins only, 2-hour limit, monitored Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00). For longer stays, you can park for free along certain streets near the center (such as along The Scores), or use one of the long-stay lots near the entrance to town.
Golf Events: Every five years, St. Andrews is swamped with about 100,000 visitors when it hosts the British Open (called simply “The Open” around here; the next one is in 2015). The town also fills up every year in early October for the Alfred Dunhill Links Championship. Unless you’re a golf pilgrim, avoid the town at these times. If you are a golf pilgrim, expect room rates to skyrocket.
School Term: The University of St. Andrews has two terms: spring semester (“Candlemas”), from mid-February through May; and fall semester (“Martinmas”), from late September until mid-January. St. Andrews feels downright sleepy in summer, when most students leave and golfers take over the town.
Internet Access: You can get online for free at the public library, behind the church on South Street (photo ID required, Mon and Fri-Sat 9:30-17:00, Tue-Thu 9:30-19:00, closed Sun, tel. 01334/659-378). The TI also has two pay Internet terminals (£1/20 minutes).
(See “St. Andrews” map, here)
This walk links all of St. Andrews’ must-see sights and takes you down hidden medieval streets. Allow at least an hour, or more if you detour for the sights along the way.
• Start at the base of the seaside street called The Scores, by the historical-information signpost near the Links golf shop. (To get here from the bus station, turn left down City Road, then right onto North Street, then immediately left again onto Golf Place.)
You’re standing at the mecca of golf. The 18th hole of the world’s first golf course is a few yards away, on your left (for info on playing the course, see “Golfing in St. Andrews,” later).
The gray Neoclassical building to the right of the 18th hole is the Royal and Ancient Golf Club (or “R&A” for short), which is the world’s governing body for golf (like the British version of the PGA). The R&A is closed to the public, and only men can be members (which might seem amusingly quaint...if it weren’t persisting into the 21st century). Women can enter the R&A building only during the Women’s British Open on St. Andrew’s Day (Nov 30). Anyone can enter the shop nearby, which is a great spot to buy a souvenir for the golf-lover back home. Even if you’re not golfing, watch the action for a while. (Serious fans might want to walk around to the low-profile stone bridge across the creek called Swilken Burn, with golf’s single most iconic view: back over the 18th hole and the R&A.)
To your right is Hamilton Hall, an old hotel long used as a university dormitory and now under renovation to become swanky apartments. According to town legend, the tall red-sandstone building was built to upstage the R&A by an American upset over being declined membership to the exclusive club.
Between Hamilton Hall and the beach is the low-profile British Golf Museum (described on here).
• If the weather’s decent and you’ve got the time, take a detour and stroll the West Sands, the two-mile-long, broad, sandy beach that stretches below the golf courses. It’s a wonderful place for a relaxing and/or invigorating walk. Or do a slo-mo jog, humming the theme to Chariots of Fire (this is the beach they run along in the famous opening scene). To reach the sands, walk past the R&A and hang a left—just after you’ve crossed over the creek, you’ll find the ramp leading down to the beach.
To continue this walk, turn right and start walking up The Scores. The street’s name may sound golf-inspired, but comes instead from the Norse word for “cliff-top.” When you see the obelisk, cross the street.
This obelisk commemorates all those who died for their Protestant beliefs during the Scottish Reformation. Walk up to the benches to get a good look at the cliffs on your right. For a time, the sea below was called “Witches’ Lake” because of all the women and men pushed off the cliff on suspicion of witchcraft. The Victorian bandstand gazebo recalls the town’s genteel heyday as a seaside resort, when the train line ran all the way to town.
Cross back to the other side of the street. Find the covered alleyway near Alexander’s Restaurant, next to the blue Gillespie Terrace sign (which may be obscured by shrubs). Step into the alley and take a quick look back at the magnificent view of the West Sands (in the spring, this archway frames a rainbow nearly every day). Then follow the alley as it winds through the back gardens of the city’s stone houses. St. Andrews’ street plan typifies that of a medieval pilgrimage town: All main roads lead to the cathedral; only tiny lanes, hidden alleys, and twisting “wynds” such as this one connect the main east-west streets.
• The wynd pops you out onto North Street. Make like a pilgrim and head left toward the cathedral. As you walk, listen to the seagulls. Is it just me, or can you detect a Scottish brogue in their squawking?
Once you’ve passed the small cinema on your left, you’ll see the church tower with the red clock face. Walk past Butt’s Wynd (no joke). For some reason, this street sign often goes missing.
You’re standing outside St. Salvator’s Chapel, part of...
If you’re a student, tread carefully over the cobbles here to avoid stepping on the initials PH. They mark the spot where St. Andrews alum and professor Patrick Hamilton—the Scottish Reformation’s most famous martyr—was burned at the stake. According to student legend, as he suffered in the flames, Hamilton threatened that any students who stood on this spot would fail their exams. (And you thought you had hard-nosed teachers.)
St. Salvator’s Chapel, dating from 1450, is the town’s most beautiful medieval church. Try the door—if it’s open, you’ll be treated to a Gothic gem, with a wooden ceiling, 19th-century stained glass, and (supposedly) the pulpit of reformer John Knox.
• If the chapel’s not open, pass through the archway into the quad of St. Salvator’s College—which isn’t an institution itself, but rather a group of university buildings. (The archway may be closed off—if so, head to Butt’s Wynd and enter at the gate there...which may also be closed. If so, have a peek at the quad through the gate.)
This grassy square, known to students as Sally’s Quad, is the heart of St. Andrews University. As most of the university’s classrooms, offices, and libraries are spread out across the medieval town, this quad is the one focal point for student gatherings. It’s where graduation is held every July, and where the free-for-all food fight of Raisin Monday takes place in November (see sidebar on here). If you’re feeling curious, push a few doors (some seemingly off-limits university buildings, many marked by blue doors, are actually open to the public).
On the outside wall of the chapel are cases holding notices and university information; if you’re here in spring, you might see students nervously clustered here, looking to see if they’ve passed their exams. (Note the other door to the chapel, near the cases, which is worth trying if the one facing North Street is closed.)
Stroll the quad counterclockwise. On the east side, stop to check out the crazy faces on the heads above the second-floor windows. Find the university’s shield over the door marked School Six. The diamonds are from the coat of arms of the bishop who issued the first university charter in 1411; the crescent moon is a shout-out to Pope Benedict XIII, who gave the OK in 1413 to found the university (his given name was Peter de Luna); the lion is from the Scottish coat of arms; and the cross is a stylized version of the Scottish flag (a.k.a. St. Andrew’s Cross). On the next building to the left, facing the chapel, is St. Andrew himself (above door of building labeled Upper & Lower College Halls).
• Exit the square at the west end, if the gate’s open, and turn right into the wynd (if the gate’s closed, backtrack out past Hamilton’s initials and hang a right into Butt’s Wynd). When the alley ends, you’re back at The Scores. Cross the street and head to the right. The turreted stone buildings along here are built in the Neo-Gothic Scots Baronial style, and most are academic departments. Head for the...
This free museum is worth a quick stop. The first room has some well-explained medieval paraphernalia, but the highlight is the earliest-known map of the town, made in 1580—back when the town walls led directly to countryside and the cathedral was intact. Notice that the street plan within the town walls has remained the same. The next room has some exhibits on student life; the rest is skippable. For another great view of the West Sands, leave the building and walk out and around to the small cliff-top patio at the back.
Cost and Hours: Free; April-Oct Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 12:00-16:00; Nov-March Thu-Sun 12:00-16:00, closed Mon-Wed; 7a The Scores, tel. 01334/461-660, www.st-andrews.ac.uk/musa.
• Back on The Scores, walk left toward the castle. Along the way you’ll pass stately St. Salvator’s Hall (on your right, small sign on the wall), the most prestigious of the university residences and former dorm of Prince William. Just past St. Salvator’s Hall are the remains of...
Overlooking the sea, the castle is an evocative empty shell—another casualty of the Scottish Reformation. Built by a bishop to entertain visiting diplomats in the late 12th century, the castle was home to the powerful bishops, archbishops, and cardinals of St. Andrews. In 1546, the cardinal burned a Protestant preacher at the stake in front of the castle. In retribution, Protestant Reformers took the castle and killed the cardinal. In 1547, the French came to attack the castle on behalf of their Catholic ally, Mary, Queen of Scots. During the ensuing siege, a young Protestant refugee named John Knox was captured and sent to France to row on a galley ship. Eventually he traveled to Switzerland and met the Swiss Protestant ringleader, John Calvin. Knox brought Calvin’s ideas back home and became Scotland’s greatest Reformer.
Today’s castle is the ruined post-Reformation version. Your visit starts with a colorful, well-presented exhibit about the history of the castle. Afterward, head outside to explore the ruins. The most interesting parts are underground: the “bottle dungeon,” where prisoners were sent never to return (peer down into it in the Sea Tower); and, under the main drawbridge, the tight “mine” and even tighter “counter-mine” tunnels (crawling is required to reach it all; go in as far as your claustrophobia allows). This shows how the besieging French army dug a mine to take the castle—but were followed at every turn by the Protestant counter-miners.
Just below the castle is a small beach called the Castle Sands, where university students take a traditional and chilly morning dip every May 1. Supposedly, doing this May Day swim is the only way to reverse the curse of having stepped on Patrick Hamilton’s initials (explained earlier).
Cost and Hours: £5.50, £7.60 combo-ticket includes cathedral exhibit, daily April-Sept 9:30-17:30, Oct-March 9:30-16:30, last entry 30 minutes before closing, tel. 01334/477-196, www.historic-scotland.gov.uk.
• Leaving the castle, continue toward the pier, keeping the cliff to your left, and follow The Scores, which soon becomes a pedestrian path leading to the gate to a graveyard. Enter it to stand amid the ruins of...
Between the Great Schism and the Reformation (roughly the 14th-16th centuries), St. Andrews was the ecclesiastical capital of Scotland—and this was its showpiece church. Today the site features the remains of the cathedral and cloister (with walls and spires pecked away by centuries of scavengers), a graveyard, and a small exhibit and climbable tower.
Cost and Hours: Cathedral ruins-free; exhibit and tower-£4.50, £7.60 combo-ticket includes castle; daily April-Sept 9:30-17:30, Oct-March 9:30-16:30, last entry 30 minutes before closing, tel. 01334/472-563, www.historic-scotland.gov.uk.
Background: It was the relics of the Apostle Andrew that first put this town on the map and gave it its name. There are numerous legends associated with the relics. According to one version (likely untrue), in the fourth century, St. Rule was directed in a dream to bring the relics northward from Constantinople. When the ship wrecked offshore from here, it was clear that this was a sacred place. Andrew’s bones (an upper arm, a kneecap, some fingers, and a tooth) were kept on this site, and starting in 1160, the cathedral was built and pilgrims began to arrive. Since St. Andrew had a direct connection to Jesus, his relics were believed to possess special properties, making them worthy of pilgrimages on par with St. James’ relics in Santiago de Compostela, Spain (of Camino de Santiago fame). St. Andrew became Scotland’s patron saint; in fact, the white “X” on the blue Scottish flag evokes the diagonal cross on which St. Andrew was crucified (he chose this type of cross because he felt unworthy to die as Jesus had).
Self-Guided Tour: You can stroll around the cathedral ruins—the best part of the complex—for free. First walk between the two tall ends of the church, which used to be the apse (at the sea end) and the main entry (at the town end). Visually trace the gigantic footprint of the former church in the ground, including the bases of columns—like giant sawed-off tree trunks. Plaques identify where elements of the church once stood. Looking at the one wall that’s still standing, you can see the architectural changes that were made over the 150 years the cathedral was built—from the rounded, Romanesque windows at the front to the more highly decorated, pointed Gothic arches near the back. Mentally rebuild the church, and try to imagine it in its former majesty, when it played host to pilgrims from all over Europe. The church wasn’t destroyed all at once, like all those ruined abbeys in England (demolished in a huff by Henry VIII when he broke with the pope). Instead, because the Scottish Reformation was more gradual, this church was slowly picked apart over time. First just the decorations were removed from inside the cathedral. Then the roof was pulled down to make use of its lead. Without a roof, the cathedral fell further and further into disrepair, and was quarried by locals for its handy precut stones (which you’ll still find in the walls of many old St. Andrews homes). The elements—a big storm in the 1270s and a fire in 1378—also contributed to the cathedral’s demise.
The surrounding graveyard, dating from the post-Reformation Protestant era, is much more recent than the cathedral. In this golf-obsessed town, the game even infiltrates the cemeteries: Many notable golfers from St. Andrews are buried here (such as Young Tom—or “Tommy”—Morris, four-time British Open winner).
Go through the surviving wall into the former cloister, marked by a gigantic grassy square in the center. You can still see the cleats up on the wall, which once supported beams. Imagine the cloister back in its heyday, its passages filled with strolling monks.
At the end of the cloister is a small exhibit (entry fee required), with a relatively dull collection of old tombs and other carved-stone relics that have been unearthed on this site. Your ticket also includes entry to the surviving tower of St. Rule’s Church (the rectangular tower beyond the cathedral ruins). If you feel like hiking up the 156 very claustrophobic steps for the view over St. Andrews’ rooftops, it’s worth the price. Up top, you can also look out to sea to find the pier where students traditionally walk out in their robes (see sidebar on here).
• Leave the cathedral grounds through the gate on the town side of the cathedral. On your left, bending around the corner, is South Street, and the pointed stone arch of the gate called “the Pends”—which will supposedly collapse should the smartest man in Britain cross under it. Probably best not to test that legend—instead, head right to follow the road around to North Street. Just around the corner, on the left, is the adorable...
Filling a 17th-century fishing family’s house that was protected from developers, this museum is a time capsule of an earlier, simpler era. The house itself seems built for Smurfs, but once housed 20 family members. The ground floor features replicas of a grocer’s shop and a “chemist’s” (pharmacy), using original fittings from actual stores. Upstairs are temporary exhibits, and out back is a tranquil garden (dedicated to the memory of a beloved professor) with “great-grandma’s washhouse,” featuring an exhibit about the history of soap and washing. Lovingly presented, this quaint, humble house provides a nice contrast to the big-money scene around the golf course at the other end of town.
Cost and Hours: Free but donation requested, generally open late May-late Sept daily 14:00-17:00, closed off-season, 12 North Street, tel. 01334/477-629, www.standrewspreservationtrust.org.
• From the museum, hang a left around the next corner to South Castle Street. Just before you hit the top of Market Street, look for the tiny white house on your left, with the cute curved staircase. What’s that on the roof?
Turn right down Market Street (which leads directly to the town’s center, but we’ll take a curvier route). Notice how the streets and even the buildings are smaller at this end of town, as if the whole city is shrinking as the streets close in on the cathedral. Passing an antique bookstore on your right, take a left onto Baxter Wynd, a.k.a. Baker Lane (marked just around its corner). You’ll pass a tiny garden on your right before landing on South Street. To take an ice-cream detour, head left and walk 75 yards to the recommended B. Jannettas. Otherwise, head right and immediately cross the street to take in the building marked by a university insignia.
This is the home of the university’s School of Divinity (theology). If the gate’s open, find the peaceful quad, with its gnarled tree, purportedly planted by Mary, Queen of Scots. To get a feel of student life from centuries past, try poking your nose into one of the old classrooms.
• Back on South Street, continue to your left. Some of the plainest buildings on this stretch of the street have the most interesting history—several of them were built to fund the Crusades. Our walk ends at charming Church Square, where you’ll find the library (with Internet access; see “Helpful Hints,” earlier) and recommended Fisher and Donaldson bakery (closed Sun). The TI, grocery store, and ATM are all nearby on North Street (a few yards down Church Street).
If you want to do more sightseeing, you can visit one more museum just outside of the town center...
This small, modest museum, which traces St. Andrews’ history “from A to Zed,” is an enjoyable way to pass time on a rainy day. It’s situated in an old mansion in Kinburn Park, a five-minute walk from the old town.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily April-Sept 10:00-17:00, Oct-March 10:30-16:00, café, Doubledykes Road, tel. 01334/659-380.
St. Andrews is the Cooperstown and Mount Olympus of golf, a mecca for the plaid-knickers-and-funny-hats crowd. Even if you’re not a golfer, consider going with the flow and becoming one for your visit. While St. Andrews lays claim to founding the sport (the first record of golf being played here was in 1553), nobody knows exactly where and when golf was born. In the Middle Ages, St. Andrews traded with the Dutch; some historians believe they picked up a golf-like Dutch game on ice, and translated it to the bonnie rolling hills of Scotland’s east coast. Since the grassy beachfront strip just outside St. Andrews was too poor to support crops, it was used for playing the game—and, centuries later, it still is. Why do golf courses have 18 holes? Because that’s how many fit at the Old Course in St. Andrews, golf’s single most famous site.
The Old Course—The Old Course hosts the British Open every five years (next in 2015). At other times it’s open to the public for golfing. Fortunately for women golfers, the men-only Royal and Ancient Golf Club (R&A) doesn’t actually own the course, which is public and managed by the St. Andrews Links Trust. Drop by their clubhouse, overlooking the beach near the Old Course (hours change frequently with the season—figure May-Aug daily 7:00-21:00, progressively shorter until 7:30-16:00 in Dec, www.standrews.org.uk).
Teeing Off at the Old Course: Playing at golf’s pinnacle course is pricey (£150/person, less off-season), but accessible to the public—subject to lottery drawings for tee times and reserved spots by club members. You can play the Old Course only if you have a handicap of 24 (men) or 36 (women); bring along your certificate or card. If you don’t know your handicap—or don’t know what “handicap” means—then you’re not good enough to play here (they want to keep the game moving, rather than wait for novices to spend 10 strokes on each hole). If you play, you’ll do nine holes out, then nine more back in—however, all but four share the same greens.
Reserving a Tee Time: To ensure a specific tee time at the Old Course, it’s smart to reserve a full year ahead. Call 01334/466-666 or email reservations@standrews.org.uk. Otherwise, some tee times are determined each day by a lottery called the “daily ballot.” Call or visit in person by 14:00 two days before to put your name in (2 players minimum, 4 players max)—then keep your fingers crossed when they post the results online at 16:00 (or call to see if you made it). Note that no advance reservations are taken on Saturdays or in September, and the courses are closed on Sundays—which is traditionally the day when townspeople can walk the course.
Other Courses: The trust manages six other courses (including two right next to the Old Course—the New Course and the Jubilee Course). These are cheaper, and it’s much easier to get a tee time (£70 for New and Jubilee, £120 for Castle Course, £12-40 for others). It’s usually possible to get a tee time for the same day or next day (if you want a guaranteed reservation, you’ll need to make it at least 2 weeks in advance). The Castle Course has great views overlooking the town, but even more wind to blow your ball around.
▲The Himalayas—Named for its dramatically hilly terrain, “The Himalayas” is basically a very classy (but still relaxed) game of minigolf. Technically the “Ladies’ Putting Green,” this cute little patch of undulating grass presents the perfect opportunity for non-golfers (female or male) to say they’ve played the links at St. Andrews—for less than the cost of a Coke. It’s remarkable how the contour of the land can present even more challenging obstacles than the tunnels, gates, and distractions of a corny putt-putt course back home. Flat shoes are required (no high heels). You’ll see it on the left as you walk toward the clubhouse from the R&A.
Cost and Hours: £2 for 18 holes. Except when it’s open only to members, the putting green is open to the public daily June-July 10:30-19:00, May and Aug 10:30-18:30, April and Sept-late Oct 10:30-18:00. It’s closed to the public (because members are using it) Mon-Tue and Fri 16:45-17:30, Wed 12:00-15:30, Thu 10:00-11:00, Sun before 12:00, and late Oct-March. Tel. 01334/475-196.
British Golf Museum—This exhibit, which started as a small collection in the R&A across the street, is the best place in Britain to learn about the Scots’ favorite sport. It’s a bit tedious for those of us who reach for the remote when we see golf on TV, but a must (and worth at least ▲▲) for golf-lovers.
The compact, one-way exhibit reverently presents a meticulous survey of the game’s history—from the monarchs who loved and hated golf (including the king who outlawed it because it was distracting men from church and archery practice), right up to the “Golden Bear” and a certain Tiger. A constant 2.25-hour loop film shows highlights of the British Open from 1923 to the present, and other video screens show scratchy black-and-white highlights from the days before corporate sponsorship. At the end, find items donated by the golfers of today, including Tiger Woods’ shirt, hat, and glove.
Cost and Hours: £6, ticket good for 2 days and includes informative book about the history of golf; April-Oct Mon-Sat 9:30-17:00, Sun 10:00-17:00; Nov-March daily 10:00-16:00; last entry 45 minutes before closing; Bruce Embankment, in the blocky modern building squatting behind the R&A by the Old Course, tel. 01334/460-046, www.britishgolfmuseum.co.uk.
Owing partly to the high-roller golf tourists flowing through the town, St. Andrews’ accommodations are expensive. During graduation week in June, hotels often require a four-night stay and book up quickly. Solo travelers are at a disadvantage, as many B&Bs don’t have singles—and charge close to the double price for one person (I’ve listed “S” or “Sb” below for those that actually have single rooms). But the quality at my recommendations is high, and budget alternatives—including a hostel—are workable. All of these, except the hostel and the dorms, are on the streets called Murray Park and Murray Place, between North Street and The Scores in the old town. If you need to find a room on the fly, head for this same neighborhood, which has far more options than just the ones I’ve listed below.
$$ Cameron House has five old-fashioned, paisley, masculine-feeling rooms—including two nice singles that share one bathroom—around a beautiful stained-glass atrium (S-£45, Db-£90, discount for longer stays, prices soft and sometimes closed Nov-Easter, free Wi-Fi, lounge, 11 Murray Park, tel. 01334/472-306, www.cameronhouse-sta.co.uk, elizabeth@cameronhouse-sta.co.uk, Elizabeth and Leonard Palompo).
$$ Lorimer Guest House has five comfortable, tastefully decorated rooms, including one on the ground floor (Db-£88-104, deluxe Db-£94-120, higher prices are for July-Sept, ask about discount for longer stays, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, 19 Murray Park, tel. 01334/476-599, www.lorimerhouse.com, info@lorimerhouse.com, Mick and Chris Cordner).
$$ Doune Guest House is golfer-friendly, with six comfortable, plaid-heavy rooms. The helpful owners are happy to arrange early breakfasts and airport transfers (S-£40-49, Db-£80-98, price depends on season, cheaper off-season, cash only, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, 5 Murray Place, tel. 01334/475-195, www.dounehouse.com, info@dounehouse.com).
$$ Arran House has nine modern rooms, including a single with a private bathroom across the hall (S-£50, Sb-£60, Db-£80-90, three ground-floor rooms, two family rooms, free Wi-Fi, 5 Murray Park, tel. 01334/474-724, mobile 07768-718-237, www.arranhousestandrews.co.uk, info@arranhousestandrews.co.uk, Anne and Jim McGrory).
$$ Glenderran Guest House offers five plush, golf-oriented rooms and a few nice breakfast extras (Sb-£40-60, Db-£80-120, free Wi-Fi, same-day laundry-£10, 9 Murray Park, tel. 01334/477-951, www.glenderran.com, info@glenderran.com, Ray and Maggie).
$$ Hoppity House is a recently remodeled, bright, and contemporary place, with neutral tones and built-in furniture that makes good use of space. You may find a stuffed namesake bunny or two hiding out among its six rooms. Golfers appreciate the golf-bag lockers on the ground floor (Sb-£45-55, Db-£75-90, deluxe Db-£90-110, family room, lower prices off-season, fridges in rooms, free Wi-Fi, 4 Murray Park, tel. 01334/461-116, mobile 07701-099-100, www.hoppityhouse.co.uk, enquiries@hoppityhouse.co.uk, helpful Gordon and Heather).
Hostel: $ St. Andrews Tourist Hostel has 44 beds in colorful 4- to 8-bed rooms about a block from the base of Market Street. The high-ceilinged lounge is a comfy place for a break, and the friendly staff is happy to recommend their favorite pubs (£12-14/bed, no breakfast, kitchen, free Wi-Fi, self-service laundry-£3.50, towels-£1, office open 7:00-23:00, office closed 15:00-18:00 outside of summer, no curfew, St. Mary’s Place, tel. 01334/479-911, www.standrewshostel.com, info@standrewshostel.com).
In the summer (mid-June-Aug), two of the University of St. Andrews’ student-housing buildings are tidied up and rented out to tourists (website for both: www.discoverstandrews.com; pay when reserving). $$ New Hall has double beds and private bathrooms; it’s more comfortable, but also more expensive and less central (Sb-£51-61, Db-£71-89, family Qb-£89-115, includes breakfast, tel. 01334/467-000, new.hall@st-andrews.ac.uk). $ McIntosh Hall is cheaper and more central, but it only has twin beds and shared bathrooms (S-£38, D-£65, tel. 01334/467-035, mchall@st-andrews.ac.uk). Because true single rooms are rare in St. Andrews’ B&Bs, these dorms are a good option for solo travelers.
(See “St. Andrews” map, here)
The first three listings—owned by the same group—are popular and serve up reliably good international cuisine. Comparing their early-dinner specials may help you choose (www.houserestaurants.com).
The Doll’s House offers cuisine with a French flair, with two floors of indoor seating and a cozy, colorful, casual atmosphere; the sidewalk seating out front is across from Holy Trinity Church (£7-11 lunches, £12-18 dinners, £13 two-course early-bird special 17:00-19:00, open daily 12:00-15:00 & 17:00-22:00, a block from the TI at 3 Church Square, tel. 01334/477-422).
The Glass House serves pizza, pasta, and salads in a two-story glass building with an open-style layout (£6 lunches, £9-11 dinners, £10 two-course early-bird special 16:00-18:30, open daily 12:00-22:30, second-floor outdoor patio, near the castle on 80 North Street, tel. 01334/473-673).
The Grill House offers Mexican-style food in a vibrantly colored space (£6-9 lunches, £10-16 dinners, £10 two-course early-bird special 16:00-18:30, open daily 12:00-22:00, St. Mary’s Place, tel. 01334/470-500).
The Seafood Restaurant is St. Andrews’ favorite splurge. Situated in a modern glassy building overlooking the beach near the Old Course, it’s like dining in an aquarium. The place serves locally caught seafood to a room full of tables that wrap around the busy open kitchen. Dinner reservations are recommended (£13-26 lunches, £45 three-course dinner, daily 12:00-14:30 & 18:00-22:00, The Scores, tel. 01334/479-475).
On Market Street: In the area around the TI, you’ll find a concentration of good restaurants—pubs, grill houses, coffee shops, Asian food, fish-and-chips (see later), and more...take your pick. A block down Market Street, you can stock up for a picnic at Gregg’s and Tesco.
Pubs: There’s no shortage in this college town. Aikmans features a cozy wood-table ambience and frequent live music (traditional Scottish music upstairs about twice a month, other live music generally Thu-Sat, £5-7 pub grub, open daily 11:00-24:00, 32 Bell Street, tel. 01334/477-425). The Central is a St. Andrews standby, with old lamps and lots of brass (£5 sandwiches, £9 burgers, Mon-Sat 11:00-23:45, Sun 12:30-23:45, food until 21:00, 77 Market Street, tel. 01334/478-296). Ma Bells is a sleek but friendly place that clings to its status as one of Prince William’s favorites (£5-10 pub grub, pricier bistro meals, Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00, Sun 12:30-24:00, food served until 21:00, a block from the Old Course and R&A at 40 The Scores, tel. 01334/472-622). Greyfriars is in a classy, modern hotel near the Murray Park B&Bs (£5 light meals, £8-15 main dishes, daily 12:00-24:00, 129 North Street, tel. 01334/474-906).
Fish-and-Chips: Fritto is a local favorite for take-away fish-and-chips, centrally located on Market Street near the TI (£6 fish-and-chips, £4 burgers, daily 12:00-21:00, can be later Fri-Sat and when the weather’s good, at the corner of Union and Market, tel. 01334/475-555). Brave souls will order a can of Irn-Bru with their fish (warning: It doesn’t taste like orange soda—see here). For what’s considered the country’s best chippie, head for the Anstruther Fish Bar in the East Neuk (described at the end of this chapter).
Dessert: Fisher and Donaldson is beloved for its rich, affordable pastries and chocolates. Listen as the straw-hatted bakers chat with their regular customers, then try their Coffee Tower—like a giant cream puff filled with rich, lightly coffee-flavored cream (£1-2 pastries, Mon-Fri 6:00-17:15, Sat until 17:00, closed Sun, just around the corner from the TI at 13 Church Street, tel. 01334/472-201). B. Jannettas, which has been around for more than a century, features a wide and creative range of 52 tasty ice-cream flavors (£1.30 per scoop, Mon-Sat 9:00-22:30, Sun 8:30-22:30, 31 South Street, tel. 01334/473-285).
Trains don’t go into St. Andrews—instead, use the Leuchars station (5 miles from St. Andrews, connected by buses coordinated to meet most trains, 2-4/hour, see “Arrival in St. Andrews” on here). The TI has useful train schedules, which also list bus departure times from St. Andrews.
From Leuchars by Train to: Edinburgh (1-2/hour, 1-1.25 hours), Glasgow (2/hour, 2 hours, transfer in Haymarket), Inverness (roughly hourly, 3.25-4 hours, 1 direct, otherwise with 2 changes). Trains run less frequently on Sundays. Train info: tel. 0845-748-4950, www.nationalrail.co.uk.
On the lazy coastline meandering south from St. Andrews, the cute-as-a-pin East Neuk (pronounced “nook”) is a collection of tidy fishing villages. While hardly earth-shattering, the East Neuk is a pleasant detour if you’ve got the time. The villages of Crail and Pittenweem have their fans, but Anstruther is worth most of your attention. The East Neuk works best as a half-day side-trip (by either car or bus) from St. Andrews, though drivers can use it as a scenic detour between Edinburgh and St. Andrews.
Getting There: It’s an easy drive from St. Andrews. For the scenic route, follow the A-917 south of town along the coast, past Crail, on the way to Anstruther and Pittenweem. For a shortcut directly to Anstruther, take the B-9131 across the peninsula (or return that way after driving the longer coastal route there). Buses connect St. Andrews to the East Neuk: Bus #95 goes hourly from St. Andrews to Crail and Anstruther (50 minutes to Anstruther, catch bus at St. Andrews bus station or from Church Street, around the corner from the TI). The hourly #X60 bus goes directly to Anstruther, then on to Edinburgh (25 minutes to Anstruther, 2.25 hours more to Edinburgh). Bus info: tel. 0871-200-2233, www.travelinescotland.com.
Stretched out along its harbor, colorful Anstruther (AN-stru-ther; pronounced ENT-ster by locals) is the centerpiece of the East Neuk. The main parking lot and bus stop are both right on the harbor. Anstruther’s handy TI, which offers lots of useful information for the entire East Neuk area, is located inside the town’s main sight, the Scottish Fisheries Museum (April-Oct Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 11:00-16:00, closed Nov-March, tel. 01333/311-073, www.visitfife.com). Stroll the harborfront to the end, detouring inland around the little cove (or crossing the causeway at low tide) to reach some colorful old houses, including one encrusted with seashells.
Anstruther’s Scottish Fisheries Museum is true to its slogan: “We are bigger than you think!” The endearingly hokey exhibit sprawls through several harborfront buildings, painstakingly tracing the history of Scottish seafaring from primitive dugout dinghies to modern vessels. You’ll learn the story of Scotland’s “Zulu” fishing boats and walk through vast rooms filled with boats. For a glimpse at humble fishing lifestyles, don’t miss the Fisherman’s Cottage, hiding upstairs from the courtyard (£6; April-Sept Mon-Sat 10:00-17:30, Sun 11:00-17:00; Oct-March Mon-Sat 10:00-16:30, Sun 12:00-16:30; last entry one hour before closing, tearoom, Harbourhead, tel. 01333/310-628, www.scotfishmuseum.org).
Eating in Anstruther: Anstruther’s claim to fame is its fish-and-chips, considered by many to be Scotland’s best. Though there are several good chippies in town, the famous one is the Anstruther Fish Bar, facing the harbor just a block from the TI and Fisheries Museum. As you enter, choose whether you want to get takeout or dine in for a few pounds more. While more expensive than most chippies, the food here is good—so good the place has officially been named “UK’s Fish and Chip Shop of the Year” multiple times. For those who don’t like fish, they also have pizza, burgers, and—for the truly brave—deep-fried haggis (£6-8 takeout, £8-11 to dine in, dine-in prices include bread and a drink, daily 11:30-21:30, until 22:00 for take-away, 42-44 Shore Street, tel. 01333/310-518).