Winter Wonderland

Snowflakes, snowballs, and snowmen dance around this winter wonderland of a stocking, and two more snowmen dangle from the ends of the drawstring. Their pompom hats and jaunty red scarves give them flair worthy of any blizzard.

Finished Measurements

5¹⁄₂" wide x 19" long

Yarn

Cascade 220, 100% Peruvian Highland wool, worsted weight, 3¹⁄₂ oz (100 g)/220 yd (200 m) skeins

MC: Blue Velvet (7818), 1 skein
CC A: Granny Smith (8914), 1 skein
CC B: Shire (2445), 1 skein
CC C: Natural (8010), 1 skein
CC D: Peacock (2433), 1 skein
CC E: Christmas Red (8895), 4 yds

Abbreviations

CC: contrasting color

K: knit

K2tog: knit 2 stitches together

MC: main color

P: purl

P2tog: purl 2 stitches together

psso: pass slipped stitch over

ssk: slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped stitches together

yo: yarn over

Needles

One set of US 6 (4 mm) double-pointed needles or size you need to obtain correct gauge
One set of double-pointed needles two sizes smaller than gauge needle

Gauge

22 stitches = 4" on US 6 (4 mm) needles in stockinette stitch

Other Supplies

Graph paper and pencil
Stitch holder or spare needle
Yarn needle
2 yds each of black and orange worsted-weight yarn (for CC F and CC G, respectively), 4/E (3.5 mm) or 6/G (4 mm) crochet hook
Small amount of polyester fiberfill stuffing for the snowmen dangles
Liquid seam sealant such as Fray Check

Knitting the Cuff

Setup: With smaller double-pointed needles and MC, cast on 60 stitches. Distribute stitches evenly among three needles. Join the knitting into a round, being careful not to twist the stitches (see Getting Around).

Round 1: *K1, P1; repeat from * to the end of the round.

Next Rounds: Continue working in K1, P1 ribbing until cuff measures 1".

Next Round: Change to larger needles and knit to the end of the round.

Making the Eyelets

Round 1: K3, slip 1, K1, psso, *K4, slip 1, K1, psso; repeat from * to the last stitch, K1. You now have 50 stitches.

Round 2: K3, yo, *K5, yo; repeat from * to the last 2 stitches, K2.

Round 3: Knit to the end of the round. (Knit the yo stitches from the previous round as normal stitches). You now have 60 stitches again.

Knitting the Leg

Rounds 1–4: Using CC A and CC B and working even in stockinette stitch, follow the Checkerboard 1 chart on page 30. Start where indicated on line 1 at the bottom and work from right to left, repeating the pattern 15 times around the stocking. (For information about knitting with several colors, see The Joy of Color on page 19.)

Rounds 5–13: Using MC and CC A, work a name or message in these 9 rounds. Create your own chart on graph paper, using the Alphabet chart on page 69 for guidance. If possible, allow 1 stitch between letters and 3 stitches between words. You may also knit these rows with MC and add the letters later in Duplicate Stitch (see page 111).

Rounds 14–17: Using CC A and CC B, repeat rounds 1–4 of Checkerboard 1 chart.

Rounds 18–23: Using MC and CC C, follow the Snowball chart on page 30, starting with line 1 at the bottom and working from right to left, repeating the pattern six times around the stocking. To make the snowball bobbles, see Making Bobbles.

Rounds 24–36: Using MC and CC C, follow the Snowflake chart on page 31. Start where indicated on line 1 at the bottom and work from right to left, repeating the pattern six times around the stocking.

Rounds 37–42: Using MC and CC C, repeat rounds 18–23 of the Snowball chart.

Rounds 43–46: Using CC A and CC C, repeat rounds 1–4 of the Checkerboard 2 chart.

Rounds 47–66: Using CC C, CC D, CC E, and CC F, follow the Snowman chart on page 31. Start where indicated on line 1 at the bottom and work from right to left, repeating pattern six times around the stocking. To make each snowman’s nose and the pompom on his hat, see Making Bobbles. Cut short pieces of CC F yarn for the snowmen’s eyes and buttons rather than carrying the yarn behind the work.

Making the Heel Flap

Note: In this section and the next, work back and forth on two needles.

Row 1 (right side): Using CC D, K30. Slide the remaining stitches to a stitch holder or spare needle. Turn.

Row 2 (wrong side): Using CC A and CC B, P1 with CC A, *P2 with CC B, P2 with CC A; repeat from * to the last stitch, P1 with CC B.

Row 3: K1 with CC A, *K2 with CC B, K2 with CC A; repeat from * to the last stitch, K1 with CC B.

Row 4: P1 with CC B, *P2 with CC A, P2 with CC B; repeat from * to the last stitch, P1 with CC A.

Row 5: K1 with CC A, *K2 with CC B, K2 with CC A; repeat from * to the last stitch, K1 with CC B.

Rows 6–17: Repeat rows 2–5 three more times.

Turning the Heel

Row 1: Using CC D, P20, P2tog, P1, turn. (7 stitches remain unworked on needle.)

Row 2: Slip 1, K11, ssk, K1, turn. (7 stitches remain unworked on needle.)

Row 3: Slip 1, P11, P2tog, P1, turn. (6 stitches remain unworked on needle.)

Next Rows: Repeat rows 2 and 3 until 14 stitches remain on the needle, ending with a knit row.

Knitting the Gusset and Foot

Note: Begin again to knit in the round. For information on how to pick up stitches along the heel, see Picking Up Stitches.

Setup:

With the needle holding the 14 heel stitches and using CC D, pick up and knit 12 stitches from the side of the heel flap. This will now be called Needle 3.
With a new needle, K30 from the stitch holder. This will now be called Needle 1.
With a new needle, pick up and knit 12 stitches from the other side of the heel flap. This will now be called Needle 2. K7 from Needle 3 onto Needle 2.

You now have 68 stitches, distributed as follows:

Needle 1: 30 stitches
Needle 2: 19 stitches
Needle 3: 19 stitches

Round 1: Using CC A and CC C, knit to end of round, following Checkerboard 2 chart on page 30. Begin where indicated on line 1 and repeat the pattern 17 times around the stocking. Since you are knitting in the round again, work all lines of the chart from right to left. In rounds 2–4, adjust to account for decreases at sides so that you maintain the checkerboard pattern.

Round 2:

Needle 1: K30.
Needle 2: K1, K2tog, knit to the end of the needle.
Needle 3: Knit to the last 3 stitches, ssk, K1.

You now have 66 stitches, distributed as follows:

Needle 1: 30 stitches
Needle 2: 18 stitches
Needle 3: 18 stitches

Round 3: Knit to the end of the round.

Round 4: Decrease as in round 2. You now have 64 stitches.

Round 5: With MC and CC C, begin working the Snowball chart, on page 30. Knit to the end of the round.

Round 6: Decrease as in round 2. You now have 62 stitches as in round 4.

Round 7: Knit to the end of the round.

Round 8:

Needle 1: K5, make Snowball bobble (see Making Bobbles, page 29) in the next stitch, K9, make Snowball in the next stitch, K9, make Snowball in the next stitch, K4.
Needle 2: K1, K2tog, K3, make Snowball in the next stitch, K9.
Needle 3: Make Snowball in the first stitch, K9, make Snowball in the next stitch, K2, ssk, K1.

You now have 60 stitches (30/15/15).

Rounds 9 and 10: Work the last 2 rounds of the Snowball chart.

Rounds 11–23: With MC and CC C, work the Snowflake chart.

Rounds 24–29: With MC and CC C, work the Snowball chart.

Rounds 30–33: With CC A and CC B, work the Checkerboard 1 chart .

Shaping the Toe

Rounds 1 and 2: Using MC, knit to the end of each round.

Round 3:

Needle 1: K1, K2tog, knit to the last 3 stitches, ssk, K1.
Needle 2: K1, K2tog, knit to the end of the needle.
Needle 3: Knit to the last 3 stitches, ssk, K1.

You now have 56 stitches (28/14/14).

Next Rounds: Repeat round 3 until a total of 12 stitches remains (6/3/3).

Slide the stitches from Needle 3 onto Needle 2, and use Kitchener stitch to graft these stitches together with the stitches on Needle 1. (See Kitchener Stitch, page 93.)

Making the Snowman Dangles (make 2)

Note: Refer to Snowman Dangle chart on page 31 as you work rows 1–22 below. Cut short pieces of CC F yarn for the snowmen’s eyes and buttons rather than carrying the yarn behind the work.

Row 1: With CC C and larger needles, cast on 3 stitches.

Rows 2 and 4: Purl to the end of each row.

Row 3: Increase 2 in each stitch by knitting into the front, then into the back, then into the front again before slipping the stitch from the needle. You now have9 stitches.

Row 5: Increase 1 in each of the first 4 stitches by knitting into the front and then into the back before slipping from the needle; K1, increase 1 in each of the last 4 stitches as before. You now have 17 stitches.

Rows 6–11: Work even in stockinette stitch, consulting the Snowman Dangle chart on page 31 for the placement of the snowman’s buttons.

Row 12: P2tog four times, P1, P2tog four times. You now have 9 stitches.

Row 13: (K1, knit into front and back of next stitch) four times, K1. You now have 13 stitches.

Rows 14–18: Work even in stockinette stitch, consulting the Snowman Dangle chart on page 31 for the placement of the snowman’s eyes and nose in rows 15 and 16. To make the bobble for the snowman’s nose, see Making Bobbles.

Row 19: K2tog three times, K1, K2tog three times. You now have 7 stitches.

Rows 20 and 22: Purl to the end of each row.

Row 21: K2tog, slip 1, K2tog, psso, K2tog. You now have 3 stitches.

Cut yarn, leaving a tail long enough to sew a seam, and pull it through the remaining stitches.

Making the I-Cord

With CC D and larger needles, cast on 3 stitches.

Make an 18" I-cord (see We’ve Got Hang-Ups).

Finishing

Weave in all loose ends with yarn needle on the wrong side.

Fold each snowman in half lengthwise, right sides together. Sew the seam from top to bottom, leaving a small hole for stuffing at the bottom. Stuff the snowman dangles and complete sewing the seam.

With CC E and the crochet hook, make an 18-chain scarf for each snowman dangle and for each snowman on the stocking. Tug the ends of the chains tight and secure them with a drop of liquid seam sealant. Pull each scarf through the stitches on each side of the snowman’s neck and tie them to look like scarves.

Thread the I-cord through the eyelets at the top of the stocking. Sew the snowman dangles to the ends of the I-cord.