The Seattle skyline, over Elliott Bay.
Perched near the edge of the continent, Seattle is a town that has always reached for the future. A land of extremes, the Emerald City is caffeine-driven yet laid-back, practical yet dreamy, soggy yet obsessive about the great outdoors. This pioneer-spirited town is a mix of the old and the new: from the former brothels of the Gold Rush era to the take-your-breath-away architecture of the Central Library. And where else will you find folks planted at a crosswalk in the pouring rain, nary a car in sight, clutching their lattes and waiting patiently for the crossing signal? Seattle is a quirky, endearing town, and here are a few things I like best about it.
Dodging the flying fish. Working the crowds just behind Rachel, the giant piggybank that guards Seattle’s beloved Pike Place Market, fishmonger-entertainers noisily toss salmon back and forth across the counter. Watch out for the “snapping” monkfish—and the Pike Place Fish Market staffer hiding behind the counter, string in hand, waiting for the next unsuspecting tourist. See p 54.
Spinning at the Space Needle. On a clear day—or even a cloudy one—head to the Space Needle’s SkyCity revolving restaurant for a uniquely Seattle dining experience. A trip to the observation deck is included in the price of your meal. Diners view the Emerald City from every angle as they rotate their way through lunch or dinner. Top off your meal with a fudgy Lunar Orbiter—complete with dry-ice Seattle “fog.” See p 48.
The Space Needle has become a Seattle icon.
Climbing on the troll. Hunkered under the Aurora Bridge in the funky Fremont neighborhood is a menacing, shaggy-haired troll, clutching a replica Volkswagen Beetle in his gnarly left hand. Ill-tempered he may be, but he’s never harmed any of the tourists who scramble up for photo-ops. See p 78.
Going down under. Seattle wasn’t always on the level—at least, not the one folks walk on today. Down below historic Pioneer Square, Underground tour guides will lead you through subterranean passages that were once Seattle streets and relate spicy tales of the city’s quirky and occasionally naughty early history. See p 14.
Riding a ferryboat. Gliding across the Puget Sound is one of the best ways to enjoy this city, which is all about water. The passengers tapping away at their laptops are local commuters, taking advantage of the free Wi-Fi. Grab a scone and a latte on board, then head out on deck and enjoy the view. You can walk aboard or drive your car. See p 18.
Watching the fish climb. At the Hiram M. Chittenden Locks, see the world’s smartest salmon climb the ladders, determined to get from Puget Sound to the lakes and streams where the next generation will begin a journey of its own. Be sure to wave at the boats going up and down in the locks. It’s a Seattle tradition. See p 107.
Partying at Bumbershoot. Seattle celebrates summer like nobody’s business. The mother of all the non-stop festivals is Bumbershoot, held at Seattle Center on Labor Day weekend to “welcome” back the rainy season. Expect most anything at eclectic Bumbershoot, from stilt-walkers to impromptu parades to sculptures made of “junk.” See p 179.
Savoring salmon at Tillicum Village. The local Native Americans greeted Seattle’s pioneer families warmly, and you’ll get a taste of that hospitality here. As your boat lands, you’ll be handed a bowl of steaming clams, then set free to explore Blake Island while salmon roasts in the longhouse. During dinner, enjoy an entertaining show of tribal dances and legends. The high-tech special effects are not exactly traditional, but pretty cool. See p 25.
Ringing in the New Year at the Needle. You’ve never seen fireworks like these. Exuberant explosions of color “climb” their way up the Needle as festive music booms in the background. Get to Seattle Center around 10:30pm and stake out the highest spot you can find on the west side of the Center House, near the front. Then send someone inside to fetch hot cocoa and popcorn. See p 179.
Curling up with a book at Elliott Bay Book Company. Get lost in Seattle’s favorite bookstore, which has packed up its tomes and moved from its longtime Pioneer Square location to great new digs on Capitol Hill. You’ll find the same jaw-dropping collection, same knowledgeable staff, and you can still grab a bite at the Elliott Bay Café, which now has two locations. See p 88.
Soaking up the sun at Alki Beach. The Denny Party knew a good thing when they saw it, which is why they made Alki Beach the “Birthplace of Seattle” in 1851. Today, you can gaze across the Puget Sound at the Seattle skyline as you bike, skate or walk along a 2-mile path skirting the sandy beach. Bikes, blades and go-carts are available for rent. Word of warning: The water’s chilly! See p 17.
Consider scheduling your visit to coincide with Bumbershoot, Seattle’s world-famous citywide fest.
Visiting the “neighbors.” Rent a kayak and explore the charming floating “neighborhoods” on Lake Union. About 500 Seattleites live on the water, in boats of every size and shape—including the one featured in the movie “Sleepless in Seattle.” Just like any “city,” there are some upscale areas and others populated by funky little vessels. See p 103.
People-watching on Capitol Hill. The grunge era lives on in this colorful neighborhood, where college students and hangers-on from the ’90s still cling to the heyday of Seattle’s music scene. Piercings and Mohawks abound, as do funky consignment shops, great little ethnic cafes with student-friendly prices, and some of the best lattes in town. See p 66.
Ogling the pirates. Seafair is a month of merriment and mischief, kicked off in early July by the Landing of the Pirates at Alki Beach. That’s right, pirates. . . as in Vikings, whose blood coursed through the veins of Seattle’s largely Scandinavian settlers. Nearly every neighborhood has its own Seafair festival. The zany Torchlight Parade in downtown Seattle is my personal favorite. See p 178.
Riding the monorail. Built for the 1962 World Fair, it’s only a mile-long ride, but gliding above downtown is truly a Seattle experience. The monorail starts at Seattle Center and ends on the upper floor of the upscale Westlake Center. In between, you zoom through the center of the bizarre but fascinating Experience Music Project, an innovative museum designed by Frank Gehry and inspired by Seattle native Jimi Hendrix. From the air, the EMP looks like a smashed guitar; from the ground, it’s anyone’s guess! See p 63.
Sipping lots of lattes. You can’t get a better cuppa joe anywhere in the world than right here, where the nation’s espresso craze began. Even if you don’t know your double-tall-skinny-no-whip from your venti-soy-half-calf, it’s fun to make a pilgrimage to the original Starbucks at Pike Place Market. It’s standing-room-only, so carry your cup with you as you browse the market stalls. See p 38. •
Glide through the futuristic Experience Music Project on the monorail.
