A detail from Pioneer Square’s giant totem pole.
When it comes to historic roots, Seattle may not compare to a city like Boston, but the Emerald City has such a colorful past, kids and adults alike get caught up in the fun. This tour will take you on an exploration from the days before the arrival of Europeans to the birth of the aerospace industry that helped modern Seattle take flight. START: Bus 124, 154, 173 to the Museum of Flight.
Museum of Flight. The focus here is the contemporary era—relatively speaking, that is, since the history of aviation goes back pretty far in Seattle. This top-flight museum will amaze anyone intrigued by the human species’ dream of escaping the bonds of earth. The historic Red Barn (Boeing’s first manufacturing building), houses exhibits on early aviation, including the mail bag carried by William E. Boeing and Eddie Hubbard on the first international U.S. Air Mail flight from Vancouver, B.C., to Seattle in 1919. The exhibit ends with the Boeing 707, which ushered in the jet age. The cavernous Great Gallery features dozens of historic aircraft, many of them suspended from the ceiling as though in flight. Visitors can climb into the cockpit of a real Blackbird, the fastest jet ever made. The Personal Courage Wing tells the stories of fighter aviators in World Wars I and II. And at the Airpark, you can view legendary aircraft including the Concorde and the first jet Air Force One. The simulator exhibit lets you try virtual flight and hang-gliding. The museum’s Space Gallery displays NASA and Russian spacecraft (and mock-ups). 
90 min. 9404 E. Marginal Way S. 
206/764-5720. www.museumofflight.org. $19 adults, $16 seniors, $11 ages 5–17, free 4 & under. Free 5–9pm 1st Thurs of every month. Daily 10am–5pm.
Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park. You’re bound to catch Gold Fever as you listen to the tales of Yukon-bound prospectors and their families who passed through Seattle, and view personal items they left along the way. This is not only a museum but a national park. Kids can earn honest-to-gosh Junior Ranger badges by filling in an activity book based on information gleaned from the two floors of exhibits. This keeps them conveniently busy while the grown-ups enjoy the displays. Films on the Gold Rush and Seattle’s role in the mania are shown frequently. In the summer, you can watch gold-panning demonstrations twice a day or take a walking tour of Pioneer Square, led by a park ranger. 1 hr. 319 2nd Avenue S. 206/220-4240. www.nps.gov/klse. Free admission. Daily 9am–5pm (Oct–May from 10am).
The aviation industry played a major role in Seattle’s social and economic development.
At the interactive Klondike Gold Rush International Historical Park, you’ll learn everything you ever wanted to know about the Gold Rush.
Wing Luke Asian Museum. The Wing Luke celebrates the many Asian cultures that have emigrated to the Pacific Northwest. Its main exhibit, “Honoring Our Journey,” tells the 150-year-old story of Asians and Pacific Islanders settling in Washington. Temporary exhibits have included refugees’ personal stories and one called “Camp Harmony D-4-44,” which re-created a livestock stall converted into a family holding cell, barbed wire and all, for Japanese Americans being sent to internment camps in 1942. The museum is housed in the former home of the historic Freeman Hotel, where many early Asian immigrants lived while working in the canneries and lumber mills. 1 hr. 719 S. King St. (South King St. & 8th Ave. South). 206/623-5124. www.wingluke.org. $13 adults, $9.95 seniors & students, $8.95 ages 5–12. Price includes tour of historic building/former hotel. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm, 1st Thurs of month & 3rd Sat of month 10am–8pm.
Explore the influence of Asian immigrants to Seattle at the Wing Luke Asian Museum.
Museum of History & Industry (MOHAI). It may not have the most exciting name, but there is nothing dull about this museum. It’s a great way to learn about Northwest history through riveting, often hands-on exhibits and historic photos. You can amble along the “sidewalks” of pre-fire Seattle, which would soon be reduced to ashes by the Great Fire of 1889. Every aspect of Seattle’s scientific and industrial history is covered, right up to the arrival of Microsoft. In 2013, MOHAI moved to the historic Naval Reserve Building on the shores of Lake Union. 1 hr. 820 Terry Ave. N. 206/324-1126. www.mohai.org. $14 adults, $12 seniors, free ages 14 & under. Also, free first Thurs of the month. Daily 10am–5pm, Thurs until 8pm.
Learn about Seattle’s past, including the Great Fire that destroyed much of the city, at the Museum of History & Industry (MOHAI).
Burke Museum of Natural History and Culture. I love this museum on the tree-lined campus of the University of Washington because it’s doable in a couple of hours, and it’s all about Washington State: from 40 million-year-old fossils to an extensive Native American arts collection. Dino Times, with its dinosaur skeletons and walk-through volcano, is enormously fun, and the cultural showcases are engaging and unique. 1 hr. 17th Ave. NE & NE 45th St. 206/543-5590. www.burkemuseum.org. $9.50 adults, $7.50 seniors, $6 students & youth, free under 5. Daily 10am–5pm. Free & open until 8pm 1st Thurs of month.
Nordic Heritage Museum. This unassuming two-story museum is the only one in the country that celebrates the history of the five Nordic countries, many of whose descendants call the Pacific Northwest home. My favorite exhibit brings to life the arrival of early Scandinavian immigrants, via Ellis Island, to the land of their dreams. You can feel the excitement, and then the chaos of their new adventure. Each country—Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway, and Sweden—has a room at the museum to tell its story and show off its art and culture. Lots of kids’ programs are offered, as well as classes in Nordic folk arts. 1 hr. 3014 NW 67th St. 206/789-5707. www.nordicmuseum.org. $8 adults, $7 seniors & students, $6 children over 5. Tues–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun noon–4pm.
In 1852, a windy, rain-drenched winter prompted Seattle’s founders to move from Alki Point (now in West Seattle), where they had landed the previous year, to the more sheltered eastern shore of Elliott Bay. The reason for the zany layout of the town they created—now the Pioneer Square neighborhood—was the lack of agreement among the city fathers (and possibly the chronic drunkenness of at least one) about which direction the roads should go. Perhaps not surprisingly, squabbling over roads became a Seattle tradition. Thirty-five years later, Seattle struck it rich when gold was discovered in the Yukon. Would-be prospectors stocked up on supplies before they headed out to the gold fields; on the way back, those who had struck it rich dropped a large percentage of their profits here. After the fire in 1889, Seattle’s businessmen, frantic at missing out on profits, scrambled to rebuild their city. They built fast, but they built to last.
Larsen’s Danish Bakery. After your visit to the Nordic Heritage Museum enjoy some homemade Danish pastries with a cup of coffee at this long-established bakery. Here’s your chance to sample a real Danish kringle or smorkaka. 8000 24th Ave NW. www.larsensbakery.com. $
Tillicum Village. Rewind to pre-European times in the Northwest. The local Indian tribes may have lived to regret their initial hospitality to the white settlers who landed at Alki Point and who, many years later, drove the Native Americans onto second-rate reservation land. But at Tillicum Village, the hospitality is in full force as a number of local tribes cooperatively present a salmon bake in the longhouse, then perform traditional dances illustrating creation stories. Skilled tribal artists carve masks and other items, many of which can be purchased. The setting is deeply forested Blake Island, believed to be an ancient campground of the Duwamish and Suquamish tribes, and the likely birthplace of Chief Seattle. There’s a playground for children, and you’ll likely spot a few deer. Now a state park, it can be reached only by boat. 4 hr. 206/933-8600. www.tillicumvillage.com. Argosy Cruises offers rides to & from Tillicum Village, leaving from Pier 55 on the Seattle waterfront. Price with the cruise: $79 adults, $72 seniors, $30 ages 5–12; free age 4 & under; dates & times vary by month.
The Emerald City has always supported the arts with its extra cash, whether from gold, aerospace, or dotcom mania. The Pacific Northwest is known for its public art, particularly sculptures, and for its Venetian-influenced glass. Renowned homegrown glass artist Dale Chihuly launched an American glass-art movement in the late 1960s that is still going strong in Seattle. START: Bus 212, 216, 217, 255, 256 to Seattle Art Museum.
The “Hammering Man” looms over the Seattle Art Museum.
Seattle Art Museum. You’ll know you’re there when you see the hardworking “Hammering Man,” a 48-foot tribute to the working classes that shaped Seattle’s character. Appropriately, the arm of the animated outdoor sculpture, designed by Jonathan Borofsky, gets a rest every year on Labor Day. Entrance to the first two floors of this beautiful museum, expanded in 2007, is free of charge, and includes the Brotman Forum, which features changing exhibits and Cai Guo-Qiang’s fanciful sculpture of nine cars falling across the space. Traveling exhibits and art from around the world fill the rest of the museum. 2 hr. 1300 1st Ave. 206/654-3100. www.seattleartmuseum.org. Admission $20 adults, $18 seniors 62 & over, $13 students & children 13–17, free children 12 & under. Wed–Sun 10am–5pm; Thurs 10am–9pm. See p 11.
Cherry Street Coffee House. While you’re in an arty mood, stop for a snack at this chic cafe, which showcases the works of local artists. The coffee is great, and so are the soups and sandwiches. If you’re a carnivore, try their famous BLT; if not, you’ll love the homemade veggie burgers. 1212 1st Ave. 206/264-9372. $
Chihuly Garden and Glass. Not many artists are given a museum in their lifetime, but world-famous Seattle glass artist Dale Chihuly has one devoted entirely to his work right next to the Space Needle. Chihuly’s work is so intensely colorful and inventive it seems to transcend the limits of glass. The museum presents a chronological portrait of his life and work, and ends in a garden with fabulous glass plants. 45 min. 305 Harrison St. 206/743-4940. www.chihulygardenandglass.com. $19 adults, $17 seniors, $12 ages 4–12. Sun–Thurs 11am–7pm, Fri–Sat 11am–8pm.
The magnificent Chihuly Garden and Glass includes galleries, a 100-ft-long sculpture in a light-filled glass house, and a magical glass garden.
You won’t have to be cooped up indoors to enjoy this relative newcomer to Seattle’s art scene. Run by the Seattle Art Museum, the Olympic Sculpture Park (2901 Western Ave.; www.seattleartmuseum.org) is a unique outdoor sculpture park that features very large permanent and traveling exhibits over 9 acres. Added bonus: It’s all right on the waterfront and has a great on-site cafe. From “Father and Son,” a double fountain by Louise Bourgeois that captures a sometimes problematic relationship, to “Eagle” by Alexander Calder, an abstract work on wings of fancy, the creations are both fun and thought-provoking. Admission is free, and the park is open daily from 30 minutes before sunrise to 30 minutes after sunset. Free hour-long tours are available through the Seattle Art Museum ( 206/654-3100) at varying times throughout the year.
Marion Oliver McCaw Hall. Seattle has seen a burgeoning of art houses and expansions since the ’90s, and this was one of the most notable. Home to the Seattle Opera and the Pacific Northwest Ballet, this remodeled performance hall—resplendent with color and drama—has drawn rave reviews for its acoustic excellence and stunning art exhibits. Outside, a contemporary fountain blends in seamlessly with the walkway; at night, colored lights create swirls of color. If you’re in town over the holidays, the PNB’s “Nutcracker”—complete with Maurice Sendak costumes and sets—is not to be missed. 15 min. 321 Mercer St. 206/ 389-7676. www.seattleopera.org. Ticket prices for performances vary.
Kids are welcome to climb on the stone camels outside the Seattle Asian Art Museum.
Frye Art Museum. Charles and Emma Frye, German immigrants who made their fortune in gold-mad Seattle, left their immense collection of then-contemporary art to the city to be displayed in one location. Thus was born the Frye. Its collected representational works—portraits, still lifes, landscapes—are by 19th- and 20th-century French, German, and American painters. But in recent years, the museum has re-invented itself, adding modern and abstract art to the collection. These new works are often intriguingly juxtaposed with paintings that once hung in the Fryes’ living room or meat house. 1 hr. 704 Terry Ave. 206/622-9250. www.fryemuseum.org. As mandated by Charles Frye, admission is free. Tues–Sun 11am–5pm; Thurs until 7pm.
Seattle Asian Art Museum. Set in the middle of lovely Volunteer Park (p 67) and operated by the Seattle Art Museum, SAAM features a noteworthy collection of historic and contemporary art from a variety of Asian cultures. If you love Eastern art—or want to learn more about it—this is the perfect venue. Most of the exhibits won’t appeal greatly to younger kids, but they love playing in the child-size Japanese house. Shoes off first, of course! Kids also love climbing on the life-size camel statues that kneel on either side of the outside entrance. Don’t miss (it would be hard to) Isamu Noguchi’s captivating “Black Sun” outside the museum. A photo of the Space Needle taken through the sculpture’s open center makes a great souvenir. 1 hr. 1400 E. Prospect St. 206/654-3100. www.seattleartmuseum.org. $7 adults, $5 seniors, students & ages 13–17, free 12 & under, Wed–Sun 10am–5pm; Thurs until 9pm, free first Thurs (& first Sat to families) of each month.
Statues of dancers adorn the lobby of Marion Oliver McCaw Hall.
Henry Art Gallery. Old world meets new at the Henry, where you can find works by masters such as Rembrandt, but also avant-garde photography and sculpture. The Henry’s solid reputation has soared since its mega-expansion in 1997. One of its most popular permanent exhibits is James Turrell’s riveting “Skyspace,” which turns light—both natural and artificial—into ever-changing art. 1 hr. University of Washington campus, 15th Ave. NE & NE 41st St. 206/543-2280. www.henryart.org. Wed–Sun 11am–4pm; Thurs–Fri until 9pm. $10 adults, $6 seniors, free for students & ages 13 & under.
The Olympic Sculpture Park is operated by the Seattle Art Museum.
Seattleites spend those long-awaited summer days outdoors, but come fall, it’s time to head for the theater. So perhaps the gray winters have played a role in making this an important film and theater town. The month-long Seattle International Film Festival ( 206/324-9996; www.seattlefilm.org), held in May at several venues throughout the city, is the largest film festival in the country and has launched a number of world premieres. The city also boasts several magnificent theaters built in the Roaring Twenties or earlier, as vaudeville houses, playhouses, movie palaces, or clubs. START: Bus 9 or 49 to E. Roy St. & Harvard Ave.
Harvard Exit. Tucked away in an unassuming brick building on a side street in the artsy Capitol Hill neighborhood, this art theater specializes in independent and foreign-language films. Built in 1925 as a clubhouse for The Woman’s Century Club, it was converted in the ’60s to a movie theater. In addition to the cozy fireplace, grand piano, and comfy chairs, its huge lobby houses a 1919 movie projector used for silent films. Parking can be tricky, so leave yourself plenty of time if you come for a show. 15 min. 807 E. Roy at Harvard. 206/781-5755. www.landmarktheatres.com/Market/Seattle/HarvardExitTheatre.htm. Free admission to see the lobby.
Julia’s on Broadway. The spotlight is on Broadway at this light-hearted themed restaurant, complete with show-monikered cocktails. It’s the perfect spot to grab a bite during a theater tour. I love their “afternoon breakfast”—try the Huevos Rancheros. The emphasis is on fun—and fresh, healthy ingredients. 300 Broadway E. 
206/860-1818. $
Egyptian Theatre. Though built in 1915, this former Masonic Temple didn’t adopt its Egyptian theme until the ’80s, when it became home to the Seattle International Film Festival. As of press time, this wonderful old theater was in the process of being sold, much to the chagrin of film- and theater-lovers, and there was no word on its eventual fate. You can still stop or drive by to have a look at its facade. Hopefully it won’t be refitted as a store. 15 min. 805 E Pine St. 206/781-5755.
A detail from the Egyptian Theatre’s elaborate lobby art.
Paramount Theatre. My one complaint about this opulent theater: I often find myself transfixed by the ceiling instead of the stage. Not that the shows aren’t compelling. The Broadway series, silent movies, comedy shows, and diverse range of concerts are first-rate. It’s just that the French Renaissance architecture is so lavish, and the intricate ceiling so intriguing, that the architecture almost steals the show. Built in 1928 as Seattle’s most spectacular theater, the Paramount treated guests to stage shows and silent films, shown to the accompaniment of a custom-made Wurlitzer organ. Not a bit of its former splendor has been lost, a fact often noted by affluent Seattle brides, who make their entrances down the grand staircase in the lobby. At wedding receptions, the theater’s sloped seating area converts to a flat hardwood floor for tables and dancing. 15 min. 911 Pine St. 206/467-5510. www.stgpresents.org. Free admission to the lobby.
A detail from the 5th Avenue Theatre’s elaborate ceiling.
ACT (A Contemporary Theatre). The focus at this nationally recognized theater is on presenting contemporary and new plays, a number of which have gone on to New York. However, one of its most popular performances is the classic “Christmas Carol.” The audience sits in a semicircle around the central stage. The beautiful 1924 terra-cotta building became home to the ACT in 1973. The theater doesn’t have a parking lot, but ample parking is available across the street, in the Convention Center Garage. 15 min. 700 Union St. 206/292-7676. www.acttheatre.org.
5th Avenue Theatre. The 5th was one of the first vaudeville houses built with an Asian design in the 1920s, when all things Eastern were in vogue. Architect Robert Reamer intended the magnificent interior to look like three Imperial Chinese masterpieces: the Forbidden City, the Temple of Heaven, and the Summer Palace. The theater has undergone two transformations since its vaudeville days: first, to a movie palace; then, after a major renovation in the ’80s, to a playhouse. Its stage has been graced by an array of personalities including Katharine Hepburn, Robert Goulet, and Carol Channing. The 5th hosts more than 100 live performances each year, including touring Broadway musicals and Broadway-bound shows. Nearby parking garages offer evening discounts. 15 min. 1308 5th Ave. 206/625-1900. www.5thavenue.org.
Cinerama. If you recall the old wraparound cineramic films, you’re in for a treat at the historic Seattle Cinerama Theatre, one of only three venues in the world that can show the classic three-panel Cinerama films. Once sentenced to demolition, Cinerama was saved in 1999 by former Microsoft co-founder Paul Allen. And, as you might expect, the renovation was done in high-tech fashion, with a 90-foot-long louvered screen and cutting-edge acoustics. There’s also a smaller screen for contemporary films. The theater also underwent a major renovation that brought better digital sound and a 3-D experience. 15 min. 2100 4th Ave. 206/441-3080. www.cinerama.com.
Seattle Repertory Theatre. This Tony Award–winning regional venue has two stages, both housed in a graceful curved building in the northwest corner of Seattle Center. The focus here is on serious art theater. 15 min. 155 Mercer St. 206/443-2222. www.seattlerep.org.
ACT features mostly modern works.
Intiman Theatre. Specializing in international drama—both classics and contemporary plays—this intimate Tony-winning regional theater, sandwiched between the Seattle Repertory Theatre and the Seattle opera’s McCaw Hall, has launched world premieres. 15 min. 201 Mercer St. 206/269-1900. www.intiman.org.
The Paramount Theatre is not to be missed.
Though Seattle is heavy on young professionals with relatively few kids, it is an unusually child-friendly town. Glaring shopkeepers and condescending waiters are rare. Kids love the natural beauty of Puget Sound, the mountains, and parks; and there is a wealth of activities to keep youngsters busy any time of the year. START: Bus 99 to Pier 59.
Experience the beauty of underwater life at the Seattle Aquarium.
Seattle Aquarium. A perennial favorite, the aquarium offers stories for tots, crafts for older kids, and animal feedings and presentations. Most special programs are included with admission. At the tidepool exhibit, kids love to get their hands on anemones and sea stars. 2 hr. 1483 Alaskan Way on Pier 59. 206/386-4300. www.seattleaquarium.org. Admission $22 adults, $15 ages 4–13. Daily 9:30am–5pm (exhibits close at 6pm). See p 11.
Seattle Children’s Theatre. It’s hard to say who’s having more fun, the kids or their parents. The sets are clever, the costumes ingenious, and the acting first rate. The season runs September through June. You can get a healthy snack at intermission, but hurry or you’ll spend the whole time waiting in line—in which case you’ll miss out on the gift area, stocked with books and clever items that relate to the show. Afterward, the characters chat with kids and sign autographs. 201 Thomas St. at Seattle Center. 206/441-3322. www.sct.org. Ticket prices vary.
Even adults will be entertained by the inventive performances at the Seattle Children’s Theatre.
Seattle Center Armory Food Court. You’ll find lots of quick and tasty options here, from Thai noodles to fish and chips. There are plenty of treats as well, from warm, sugar-dusted beignets to homemade taffy. The perfect “grown-up” outing for kids is dinner at the food court, followed by a play at the Seattle Children’s Theatre. 305 Harrison St. 
206/684-7200. $
Seattle Children’s Museum. Most of the special exhibits here are geared toward the 6-and-under crowd, but children up to 10 will enjoy the hands-on science section and Imagination Studio, where they create art projects. Make that an early stop, in case paint needs to dry, then pick up the finished product on your way out. In the Lil’ Green Thumbs outdoor exhibit, kids learn about growing flowers and veggies and plant their own seed to take home. 90 min. 305 Harrison St. 206/441-1768. www.thechildrensmuseum.org. See p 13.
Pacific Science Center. Older kids will love the interactive exhibits, such as Adventures in 3Dimensions, which shows how 3-D technology involves our brains to create special effects. Younger one go for the crawl-andclimb area, which includes a treehouse and a table-height “stream” for water play. At the Insect Village, kids of all ages thrill and chill to the giant robotic insects and live animal displays. 90 min. 200 2nd Ave. N. 206/443-2001. www.pacsci.org. Admission $18 adults, $16 seniors, $13 ages 6–15, $10 ages 3–5. IMAX: $9–$14 adults, $8–$12 seniors, $7–$11 ages 6–15, $6–$9 ages 3–5; discounts available for combination passes. Mon, Wed–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat–Sun 10am–6pm. See p 13.
Seattle Center Skatepark. Let the kids loose at this 10,000-square-foot, cutting-edge skateboard park. Known to local skateboarders as Sea Sk8, it features a fully skateable vertical glass wall. 1 hr. 2nd Ave. N. & Thomas St. 206/684-7200. www.seattlecenter.com/skatepark. Free admission. Daily during daylight hours.
Tugboat Story Time at the Center for Wooden Boats. Stories about the sea are even more entertaining when told on the deck of a boat like the historic tug Arthur Foss. These maritime tales are geared for ages 2 to 5. 1 hour. 1010 Valley St. 206/382-2628. www.cwb.org. Free admission. 11am second & fourth Thurs.
Northwest Puppet Center. The Carter Family Marionettes, a local multi-generational family of puppeteers, present high-quality performances geared toward children of various ages. The artistry is remarkable, and the genial Carters bring in puppeteers from around the world, and the stories are often based on books or folk tales. After the show, puppets are often brought out on stage for children to come up and touch. 9123 15th Ave. NE. 206/523-2579. www.nwpuppet.org. Tickets: $11 adults, $9 seniors, $8.50 children. Public shows are on weekend afternoons.
Little ones will be thrilled to be let loose in the interactive Seattle Children’s Museum.
The Northwest Puppet Center.
Woodland Park Zoo. Woodland Park has won awards for several exhibits, including the primate area and the African Savanna. The newest exhibits are the Humboldt penguin habitat, where an underwater viewing area gives guests a close-up view of frolicking penguins from Peru, and the fun-loving meerkats area. At the Zoomazium, an indoor play area, kids 2 hr. 750 N. 50th St. 206/684-4800. www.zoo.org. Admission May–Sept: $19 ages 13–64, $12 ages 3–12; Oct–Apr: $13 ages 13–64, $8.75 ages 3–12. May–Sept daily 9:30am–6pm; Oct–Apr: daily 9:30am–4pm.
Green Lake Park. Seattle’s favorite place to walk, the 2.8-mile path around lovely Green Lake draws moms with strollers, joggers, dog-walkers, bicyclists, and nature-lovers. An indoor warm-water pool ( 206/684-4961; $4.85 ages 18-64, $3.25 ages 1–17 and 65+, free under 1) offers family, public and lap swimming. Tots can splash away in a large outdoor wading pool, open daily 11am–8pm from mid-June to Labor Day. This is a great playground for younger kids, because it’s divided into separate areas for toddlers and their rowdier older siblings. 1 hr. 7201 E Green Lake Dr. N. 206/684-4075. www.seattle.gov/parks. The park is open 24 hr.
The Woodland Park Zoo is famous for its tigers, among other things.
Even inveterate tea-drinkers like myself can’t help but get caught up in the coffee frenzy that permeates Seattle. Pumpkin-spice lattes, peppermint mochas, white chocolate lattes with raspberry, caramel macchiatos—who could resist their favorite flavors blended tastefully with the drug that keeps Seattleites going through the drizzle? Purists may opt for espresso or Americanos. If you just don’t like coffee, try a chai tea latte. There’s no coffee in it, just creamy, delightfully spiced tea that makes the world seem warm and cozy. In the summer, order your favorite drink served over ice. Don’t worry about being picky; the person in line ahead of you is likely to demand a double short half-caff extra-hot soy no-foam latte. Watch the barista’s face; he or she won’t blink an eye. START: Bus 10, 99, 113, 121 or 122 to Pike Place Market.
Starbucks. You must begin, of course, where Seattle’s coffee culture itself really began back in 1971. The very first Starbucks, at Pike Place Market, still features the chain’s original mascot, the topless mermaid with a double fish tail, which has been toned down over the years in other locations. Many coffee-lovers gripe that Starbucks stores are ubiquitous; but I think their flavored drinks are hard to beat, and consistently good from store to store. The original: 1912 Pike Pl. 206/448-8762.
Tully’s Coffee. With shops in several Western states—including a number in Seattle—Tully’s still roasts its coffee painstakingly, in small batches in antique roasters. The stores are friendly and welcoming, the drinks and baked goods terrific, and they usually have tables where kids can read and draw while the grown-ups sit by the fireplace and chat. My favorite is the one near Pike Place Market (2001 Western Ave. # 110A; 206/443-1915). The original: 1401 4th Ave. 206/625-0600.
Zeitgeist offers an urbane oasis from busy city life.
Love them or hate them, this is the site where the Starbucks phenomenon began.
Zeitgeist Coffee. This spacious, hip European-style coffeehouse serves up film screenings and rotating works by up-and-coming artists along with its popular Italian beans, illy caffè. See p 52.
Caffe Umbria. The Bizzarri family has been roasting beans since Emanuele’s grandfather Ornello opened his first shop in Perugia, Italy. Five blends are available, including fair-trade beans. Umbria’s Italian-style coffee is served by many demanding establishments, including the Bellagio Hotel and Resort in Las Vegas. You can enjoy a heavenly extra-foamy cappuccino right here in Pioneer Square. See p 15.
Seattle’s Best Coffee. An early player on the local coffee scene, Seattle’s Best Coffee was bought out by Starbucks a few years ago. But SBCs are still allowed to serve their own coffee blends. The chain got its name many years ago, after winning a contest for the best cuppa joe in town. Downtown: 1100 4th Ave. 206/623-0104; Pike Place Market: 1530 Post Alley. 206/467-7700.
Monorail Espresso. Back in 1980, even before Starbucks began selling coffee drinks at its original store, Chuck Beek came up with the idea of running a little espresso cart in Seattle. He peddled his wares underneath the monorail track. Fifteen years later, with a greatly expanded coffee menu, he opened a permanent shop a few blocks away. It’s a great spot to drink in a little history with your double latte. 520 Pike St. (at 5th). 206/625-0449.
Uptown Espresso’s signature Velvet Foam.
Is this really Seattle’s best? After this tour, you decide.
Caffe Vita. This roastery also claims many devotees who swear by its beans and blends from around the world. Vita forms relationships with coffee growers in Africa, Indonesia, and the Americas, and offers a wide variety of tastes. Locations include Capitol Hill: 1005 E. Pike St. 206/709-4440. Queen Anne: 813 5th Ave. N. 206/285-9662.
Espresso Vivace. David Schomer’s slow-roasting process is designed to produce a sweet caramel flavor, and the roasting is stopped early to keep the oils in and prevent a burned flavor. For many coffee aficionados, this is as good as it gets. Capitol Hill cafe location: 532 Broadway Ave. E. 206/860-2722. Capitol Hill Stand: 321 Broadway Ave. E.
TNT Espresso. This small, friendly Capitol Hill stand serves Zoka coffee, which is roasted in Seattle using beans from around the globe, including an organic chocolaty fair-trade blend of beans from Java and Yemen. Zoka’s Paladino blend is sweet and nutty, and is a favorite of many baristas at competitions. 324 Broadway Ave E. 206/323-9151.
Dilettante Mocha Café. Silky-smooth, top-quality chocolate makes for sinfully rich mochas, and the presentation is style. The chocolate melts in pots right beside the espresso machine. Locations include 538 Broadway E. 206/329-6463. See p 88.
Bauhaus Books & Coffee. This hip spot in a very diverse neighborhood is stacked with books, which makes it seem very cozy. The people-watching can’t be beat, either inside or at the outdoor tables. Nor can the dramatic views of the Space Needle. Best of all? It’s open every night till 1am. 414 E. Pine St. 206/625-1600.
Caffe Ladro Espresso Bar & Bakery. Serving only organic, fair-trade, shade-grown coffee, Caffe Ladro has about a dozen locations around metro Seattle. The urban-hip shops serve delicious quiche and baked goods. Try a Medici latte with orange peel. 600 Queen Anne Ave. N. 206/282-1549. Downtown: 801 Pine St. 206/405-1950.
Uptown Espresso. This is a serious coffeeshop, with rough wood tables occupied by quietly chatting friends and furiously typing computer-users. The coffee and baked goods are excellent. Lattes come topped with a layer of Uptown’s heavenly Velvet Foam. 525 Queen Anne Ave N. 206/285-3757. Belltown: 2504 4th Ave. 206/441-1084.
Tin Cup Espresso. You might think a town known for its showers would boast lots of covered drive-throughs for its favorite beverage. Not so. This is the only one, and fortunately the drinks, made with Caffe Appassionato beans, are great. I love to start the day sipping a Rush cafe—flavored with vanilla and cinnamon. 900 Broad St. 206/464-7296.
The drinks at Espresso Vivace look like works of art.
Although a city this young may not have the widest range of architectural styles, there are many historic gems to be found; and Seattleites have put a great deal of cash into preserving their colorful past. Most of the renovations have been undertaken with care, and it is delightful to see the modern uses to which these old buildings have been put, with all due respect paid to their history. But architecture here is also moving forward. The city’s rapid growth and penchant for adventure has attracted world-renowned architects, who have designed a number of cutting-edge buildings. Start: Bus 106, 123, 124, 131 or 132 to Safeco Field.
A tour of CenturyLink Field gives a behind-the-scenes look at the stadium.
Safeco Field. The Seattle Mariners’ stadium, erected after the team demanded a new facility to replace the not-so-old but leaky Kingdome, was built amid even more controversy than usual in Seattle. But it has won the hearts of Seattleites, partly because it keeps the rain off but lets the fresh air in. It has one of the few retractable stadium coverings in the country, and the only one that doesn’t fully enclose the field. On a perfect sunny day when the roof is open, baseball doesn’t get better than this. If you can’t make a game, take the hour-long tour—you’ll get to see off-limits areas such as the private suites and press box, if they’re not in use. Even if you’re not a sports fan, you’ll enjoy the views of the city and sound, and the baseball-inspired art on display by Northwest artists. 1 hr. 1250 1st Ave. S. 206/346-4001. www.mariners.mlb.com. Ticket prices for games vary. Tour: $9 adults, $8 seniors, $7 ages 3–12, free under 3.
Check out a baseball game at the ultramodern Safeco Field.
A totem pole guards the entry to the Pioneer Building.
CenturyLink Field. The Mariners weren’t the only sports team to demand a new stadium. The Seahawks also insisted on moving out of the ill-fated Kingdome. So it was destroyed in a fantastic implosion and replaced by CenturyLink Field. Its graceful double-arched roof, studded with blue lights that glow as you fly into the city or drive along I-5, has become a treasured part of the city’s skyline. The roof also overhangs most of the bleachers, keeping about 70% of the fans dry. The field is open-air, and so is the north end, which allows drop-dead views of downtown. If you want to taste the luxury suite experience—and walk right onto the field—take a tour. They’re offered all year long. 90 min. 800 Occidental Ave. S. 206/381-7555. www.centurylinkfield.com. Tours: $7 adults, $5 seniors & ages 4–12; Sept. 1–May 30, Fri–Sat 12:30 & 2:30pm; June 1–Aug 31, daily 12:30 & 2:30pm.
Union Station. Opened in 1911, this was a transcontinental train station for 60 years. Sadly, the vast Beaux Arts building was then abandoned and sat around deteriorating until Microsoft billionaire Paul Allen came to the rescue in the 1990s. It landed a National Preservation Award in 2000, and now it serves as the headquarters for Sound Transit, a regional commuter train. Its spectacular hall, which features a beautifully lighted barrel-vaulted ceiling, is rented out for weddings and other grand occasions, and it’s easy to see why. In the daytime, natural light pours in through an enormous semi-circular window. The elegant architecture is worth an admiring look. 15 min. 401 S. Jackson St. 206/682-7275. Free admission.
King Street Station. This bustling Amtrak and Sound Transit commuter station was built in 1906 for the Great Northern Railway and Northern Pacific Railway. An extensive restoration, completed in 2013, returned it to its former glory. Its elaborate high ceilings were uncovered—hidden since the 1960s by drab suspended tiles. The entry hall, dubbed the Compass Room because of marble-tiled directional points on the floor, has also been refurbished, as has the station’s clock tower, once the tallest structure in Seattle. And its clock is once again keeping time. 15 min. 303 S. Jackson St. 206/382-4125. Free admission.
Pioneer Building. This elegant, Romanesque-style structure, hurriedly built right after the Great Fire, was named the “finest building west of Chicago” by the American Institute of Architects when it was completed in 1892. The Underground Tour (see p 14) offers a fascinating look at the building and at Seattle’s colorful history, if you have the time (tours last 90 min.) 15 min. 1st Ave. & Yesler Way. Underground Tour, 610 1st Ave., #200. 206/682-4646. www.undergroundtour.com. $17 adults, $9 children 7–12. Tours offered daily, throughout the day. See p 51.
Pioneer Square Pergola. You wouldn’t know it today, but Seattle’s eye-catching iron-and-glass pergola gained its fame for what once lay beneath: elegant public restrooms made of marble and bronze, widely considered the most luxurious in the world in 1910. People would enter the restrooms on stairways leading from the pergola. It was a project in keeping with Seattle’s traditional egalitarian ethics. The “comfort stations” have long since been closed, and the graceful Victorian pergola itself was crushed by a veering truck in 2001. Fortunately, it was restored using as much of the original materials as possible. 15 min. 1st Ave. & Yesler Way.
Smith Tower. The tallest building west of the Mississippi when it was built in 1914, this 42-story neoclassical office building is a grand old lady, worth a visit if only for a ride in its 1914 brass-caged elevators. They’re the last manually operated ones on the West Coast. The elaborate Chinese Room, with its carved blackwood furniture, is on the 35th floor, as is the observation deck. The panoramic view is spectacular. 30 min. 506 2nd Ave. 206/622-4004. www.smithtower.com. Observation deck admission $7.50 adults, $5 kids 6–12, free 5 & under. Daily 10am–5pm. (Check first to make sure no private events are scheduled.)
Arctic Building. Fondly dubbed the “Walrus Building,” this eight-story art deco structure was once an exclusive club for the relatively few gold-miners who struck it rich in the Yukon. In homage to the land where the riches were made, the building featured Alaskan marble hallways and a row of sculpted walrus heads around the third floor of the colorful terracotta exterior. Members could do everything from sip tea to go bowling here. A few years ago, investors transformed it into a charming hotel, the Arctic Club Hotel Seattle, featuring period décor. 15 min. 700 3rd Ave. 206/340-0340. Free admission to the lobby. See p 157.
After being crushed by a truck in 2001, the Pioneer Square Pergola is back to its former glory.
Say hello to the walruses that adorn the Arctic Building.
Specialty’s Café & Bakery. Grab a hearty sandwich or a healthy Cobb salad, followed by a delicious, fresh-from-the-oven peanut butter cookie. For the bargain-minded, the day-old baked goods are a good value. 1023 3rd Ave. 206/264-0882. $
Seattle Central Public Library. The most talked-about design in Seattle—since the Experience Music Project museum, anyway—is the $165 million central public library, an avant-garde showpiece by Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas. This is not your third-grade teacher’s library. Tourists from around the world have been coming specifically to see this building since its 2004 opening. Outside, its odd, asymmetrical glass and steel angles jut powerfully over the sidewalk. Inside, patrons walk up a spiraling ramp that gradually leads to the top floor. Elevators and electric-hued escalators are another option. On your way up, stunning views of the surrounding downtown buildings can be seen through the netlike steel structure. 30 min. 1000 4th Ave. 206/386-4636. www.spl.org. Free admission. Mon–Thurs 10am–8pm, Fri–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun noon–6pm.
Seattle Art Museum. This museum with its postmodern facade was designed by Pritzker Prize–winner Robert Venturi. It moved to this location after spending its first 60 years in that art-deco building in Volunteer Park that now houses the Seattle Asian Art Museum (see p 29). Fifteen years later, the museum was again bursting at the seams, and a large expansion was undertaken. The outside of the building—the upper 12 floors of which are office space—already looks dated, but the blending of old and new is impressive. The “wow” factor was reserved for the lovely interior, where exhibit spaces have doubled, prompting donations of 1,000 new pieces of art. 1 hr. 206/654-3100. www.seattleartmuseum.org. Admission $20 adults, $18 seniors over 62, $13 students & kids 13–17, free for kids 12 & under. 1300 1st Ave. Wed–Sun 10am–5pm, Thurs until 9pm. See p 11.
Wooden carvings overlook Smith Tower’s old-fashioned elevators.
Banana Republic. Yes, it’s a chain store, but it’s set in a stunning building that once housed the old Coliseum Theatre, built in 1916 by renowned Seattle architect B. Marcus Priteca for wealthy local property owner Joseph Gottstein. The Coliseum was one of the first elegant movie palaces built for showing silent films. Priteca also designed the Pantages theaters, including California’s famous one at Hollywood & Vine. After the boom in suburban theaters in the ’70s, the Coliseum stood empty until its reinvention as a clothing store. The original grandeur is preserved, and the white terracotta exterior is striking. 15 min. 500 Pike St. 206/622-2303.
Experience Music Project. Without question, this is the oddest structure in Seattle, built by eccentric Microsoft co-founder Paul Allen, a huge fan of the late local guitar legend Jimi Hendrix. At ground level the museum looks, well, rather like amorphous blobs of colorful sheet metal, but from the air, designer Frank Gehry’s building is supposed to resemble one of Hendrix’s famed smashed guitars. The inside, also architecturally engaging, showcases the history of rock ’n’ roll, including its roots in soul, jazz, and other genres. Your ticket will also get you into the Science Fiction Museum and Hall of Fame (see p 13), under the same roof. 1 hr. 325 5th Ave. N. (at Seattle Center). 206/770-2700. www.epmmuseum.org. Admission $20 adults, $17 seniors/ages 5–17. Late May–early Sept daily 10am–7pm; early Sept–late May 10am–5pm.
Heads Up!
One of the best ways to sample the city’s architecture is to take one of the many popular walking tours offered by the Seattle Architecture Foundation. Most tours last about 2 hours and showcase a wide variety of styles and locations, from the Seattle waterfront to the art deco district to the Craftsman bungalows north of the city. There are even tours for families, “Eye Spy Seattle” geared at adults and kids ages 5–10, and the Family Tour for grown-ups with kids ages 8–14. Check the website (www.seattlearchitecture.org) for dates and times. Most tours cost $15 in advance or $25 for same-day tickets, $10 for children 5–12 (Family Tour only).
The Experience Music Project is one of Seattle’s most fascinating buildings.
The Space Needle defines the Seattle skyline.
Space Needle. In typical Seattle style, there was much disagreement over what the centerpiece for the 1962 World’s Fair should look like and where it should go. The futuristic design morphed considerably from the original “Needle” sketched out on a paper placemat by a hotel chain president. By the time architect John Graham (designer of Seattle’s Northgate, the first shopping mall in the world) and his team came up with something everyone agreed on, the fair was only 11⁄2 years away. Finding a site was even trickier, and was finally accomplished with just 13 months to go. Construction went at breakneck speed, and the last elevator car arrived the day before the fair opened. The Space Needle went on to become the world-recognized symbol for its city, and a decade ago got a snazzy $20 million facelift. 1 hr. 400 Broad St. 206/905-2100. Observation deck tickets: $26 adults, $24 seniors, $17 ages 4–13. Mon–Thurs. 10am–9pm; Fri–Sat 9:30am–10:30pm; Sun 9:30 am–9:30pm. See p 9. •
