Southern Mallorca

Southern Mallorca Highlights

Cala Pi

Sa Rapita

Colonia de Sant Jordi

Ses Salines

Illa de Cabrera

Santanyi

Cala Figuera

Portopetro

Parc Natural de Mondrago

Cala d'Or

Southern Mallorca

Why Go?

The forbidding geography of the coast between the Badia de Palma (Bay of Palma) and Colònia de Sant Jordi has preserved this area as one of Mallorca's least developed. Much of the shoreline is ringed by high, impenetrable cliffs lashed endlessly by the waters of the Mediterranean. They may not always be very accessible, but their untamed, raw beauty is hypnotising.

Beyond the cliffs are intimate coves and long swathes of fine sand, true marvels of nature. Whether tightly encircled by rock, or fading into rough scrub of pine and juniper, here are some of Mallorca’s best beaches. This part of the island, inaccessible or devoted to agriculture and conservation, has been spared the worst excesses of overdevelopment that have scarred parts of Mallorca. It's a glimpse of how all of the island’s coast must once looked.

When to Go

Mallorca’s southern beaches live for the summer, to the extent that you won’t find much going on if you arrive before Easter or after October. November to March, when the island is at its quietest and coolest, can still be a good time to visit. If you do, you’re likely to have the place to yourself, including some eerily quiet resort towns with just a handful of restaurants, hotels and shops open. Summer is undoubtedly the peak season; if crowds turn you off, just seek out one of many resort-free stretches of coastline.

Best Places to Eat

A Restaurante Petite Iglesia

A Sal de Coco

A Casa Manolo

A Aventura

A Port Petit

Top Sights

A Cala Pi

A Centro de Visitantes Ses Salines

A Parc Nacional Maritim-Terrestre de l'Arxipèlag de Cabrera

A Cap de Ses Salines

A Capocorb Vell

Southern Mallorca Highlights

1 Illa de Cabrera Boating to Mallorca’s only national park, a precious ark of unspoilt Mediterranean habitat.

2 Cap de Ses Salines Hiking to the tiny coves that dot the southeastern extremity of the island.

3 Cala Figuera Dining on the day's catch at this loveliest of Mallorcan fishing villages.

4 Santanyí Pottering through the handsome stone streets, especially on market days.

5 Capocorb Vell Wandering through the rough relics of the prehistoric Talayotic people.

6 Parc Natural de Mondragó Swimming, exploring and bird-watching among the dunes and wetlands.

7 Cala Pi Clambering down the steep walls of this narrow cove, to sprawl on the soft sand below.

8 Cap Blanc Tracing the coast's contours from the lighthouse.

9 Cala d’Or Escaping the super yachts and glamour, to find a quiet cove to kayak in.

Cala Pi

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An intimate, geographically blessed and very likeable resort, Cala Pi overlooks a gorgeous white-sand, pine-flanked slither of a beach. On the coast, a circular 17th-century defence tower stands testament to the Mallorca of centuries past, when the threat from North African pirates was constant.

1Sights

Cala PiBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Reached via a steep staircase (follow the signs along Cami de la Cala Pi), the beach is only 50m wide but it is a beauty: stretching more than 100m inland and flanked on either side by craggy cliffs that ensure the startlingly turquoise water in the inlet stays as still as bath water. There are no facilities at beach level so bring any provisions you’re likely to need.

Capocorb VellARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 18 01 55; www.talaiotscapocorbvell.com; Carretera Arenal–Cap Blanc, Km 23; €2; h10am-5pm Fri-Wed; p)

At this sprawling prehistoric village, you can wander along stony pathways and beside rough stone structures that date to 1000 BC. The site, which includes 28 dwellings and five talayots (square and round stone towers made with – in the case of Capocorb Vell – no mortar). First excavated in the early 1900s, it gives a great sense of the scope and layout of the mysterious settlement.

5Eating

Typical Mallorcan restaurants, with local as well as foreign tourists in their sights, make up the perfectly pleasant suite of options. Summer terraces, paella, suckling lamb shoulder – all the classic ingredients recur.

Restaurante MiguelSPANISH€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 12 30 00; Carrer de la Torre 13; mains €18-22; h11am-11pm Tue-Sun Mar-Oct)

Set back from the ruddy headland that sustains Cala Pi's highly photogenic 16th-century 'fire-tower', Restaurante Miguel is a Mallorcan-style 'farmhouse' with a huge, inviting patio. Miguel cooks up excellent seafood dishes like paella, mussels in marinara sauce and grouper with lemon sauce, as well as heartier Mallorcan specialities like rabbit with mushrooms. There's a snack menu for grazers, too.

8Getting There & Away

Bus 525 links Cala Pi and Palma once in the morning and once in the evening (€5.55, 70 minutes).

Sa Ràpita

Pop 10,000

The main settlement along this stretch of coast, Sa Ràpita is a sleepy seaside village whose rocky shoreline, harangued by waves, provides a scenic diversion from a largely nondescript town, as does the profile of nearby Illa de Cabrera. Neighbouring Vallgornera has the longest cave on the island.

1Sights

Platja de Ses CovetesBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

This 200m sweep of pale, silky sand and gin-clear water forms part of the Reserva Marina del Migjorn de Mallorca (a protected marine reserve), so no buildings mar its backdrop of dunes and pines. It's unspoilt but not uncrowded. Walking east along the shore, you’ll come upon Platja des Trenc. Platja de Ses Covetes is past Sa Ràpita and off the Ma6030 highway. You can park in Sa Rapita.

5Eating

Most of the places along the waterfront Avinguda de Miramar – in other words, most of the places in Sa Ràpita – hedge their bets between Mallorcan favourites, and pizza and pasta. You can eat perfectly well, if unmemorably.

XalocMALLORCAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 64 06 35; Carrer del Xaloc 36; mains €18-22; h12.30-3.30pm Tue-Sun, 7.30-11pm Tue-Sat; c)

This little back-street Mallorcan joint comes highly recommended by locals, for its paellas, grilled fish and other simple Balearic favourites.

8Getting There & Away

From Palma, bus 515 heads to Sa Ràpita (€5.35, one hour, up to five daily).

Colònia de Sant Jordi

Pop 2734

A once-sleepy fishing village that was 'discovered' by tourism in the 1950s, Colònia de Sant Jordi's popularity with palmero vacationers has made it the biggest beach resort of the southern coast. A prim town whose well-laid-out streets form a chequerboard across a gently rolling landscape, the Colònia is family friendly, and surrounded by some of the best and least-developed beaches on Mallorca. Perhaps most enticingly, it's also the embarkation point for the marine wilderness of the Illa de Cabrera archipelago.

Colònia de Sant Jordi | Tolo Balaguer/Agefotostock ©

1Sights

Colònia de Sant Jordi’s main attractions are its wonderful beaches and seafront promenade. Best known is the Platja des Trenc, a 20-minute walk from the northwestern end of town.

Centro de Visitantes Ses SalinesAQUARIUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 65 62 82; www.balearsnatura.com; cnr Carrer Gabriel Roca & Plaça del Dolç; h10am-2am & 3-6pm, closed Dec & Jan)F

At the northeastern end of town, watched over by a whale-skeleton sentry, this stone-and-glass swirl of a building is part aquarium and part interpretation centre for the offshore marine environs of the Parc Nacional Marítim-Terrestre de l'Arxipèlag de Cabrera. Free and fascinating, your visit to 18 aquariums and over 70 species ends with a climb up a spiral ramp that wraps around an extraordinary mural by Miguel Mansanet, based on 16th-century Mallorcan maps of the Mediterranean.

Platja de Ses RoquetesBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

This broad stretch of white sand is lapped by clear, shallow waters, and looks across to a scattering of small islands. Nudism is allowed.

Platja des TrencBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Platja des Trenc, the largest undeveloped beach on Mallorca, runs 2km northwest from the southern edge of Colònia de Sant Jordi. With long stretches of frost-white sand, azure water and a restful setting among pine trees and rolling dunes, des Trenc proves just how pretty the Mallorcan coast was before development got out of hand. Officially a nudist beach, des Trenc draws a mixed clothed and unclothed crowd, many taking advantage of the sun loungers for hire.

2Activities

Piraguas MixKAYAKING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %660 470723; www.piraguasmixkayaks.com; Cami de Alcaria Rotja, Campos; sea kayaks per day from €30, guided excursions per person €30; h8.30am-8.30pm)

One of the most respected sea-kayaking outfits on the island. Call to meet in central Sant Jordi if you'd like to hit the water.

Team Double JCYCLING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 65 57 65; www.teamdoublej.com; Avinguda de la Primavera 7A; carbon road bike per day/week €30/130; h9.30am-1.30pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, from 5pm Sat & Sun Feb-Oct)

This outfit rents good-quality bikes, if you're tackling rough terrain or serious road distance, and can also provide maps and information on area routes. Call or email to arrange rental outside standard opening months.

5Eating

There are plenty of pa amb oli (bread with oil) and tapas places lining the Carrer Gabriel Roca (the part-pedestrianised harbour-front road), but finding the few places offering anything more adventurous will require research.

Sal de CocoMEDITERRANEAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 65 52 25; www.restaurantsaldecoco.com; Moll de Pescadors; mains €15-20, menús €28; h1-3.30pm & 7.30am-11pm Wed-Mon Mar-Nov; W)

This slick, art-strewn bistro takes its name from the sea salt gathered on the rocks around Colònia de Sant Jordi. Marta Rosselló puts an original take on Mediterranean flavours in dishes like homemade fish and spinach ravioli with shrimp sauce, cuttlefish and mushroom risotto and just-right steak tartare – all beautifully presented and revealing true depth of flavour.

MarisolINTERNATIONAL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 65 50 70; Carrer Gabriel Roca 63; mains €16-20; h12.30-10.30pm; Wc)

Logically for a seaside joint, fish is a strong point here: try the salt-crust hake, or the dory or scorpion fish (when it's super-fresh), sold by the kilo. Or you could opt for pasta, pizza, fish and shellfish, rice dishes or stews at a table on the spacious covered terrace by the water.

6Drinking & Nightlife

They are modest, compared to some Mallorcan resorts, but the Colònia's bars – most densely gathered on and behind the waterfront promenade Carrer Gabriel Roca – can get quite lively on a high-season Friday night.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 65 60 73; www.mallorcainfo.com; Carrer Gabriel Roca; h10am-2pm & 5-9pm May-Sep, 4-6pm Oct-Apr)

8Getting There & Away

Bus 502 connects Palma to Sant Jordi (€6.40, 1¼ hours, up to six daily).

Ses Salines

Pop 10,288

Used as a source of salt since the days of the Romans, Ses Salines (Salt Pans) is a beautifully preserved agricultural centre that’s quickly gaining recognition as one of inland Mallorca's most attractive towns. With quality bars, restaurants and hotels, plus grocers selling the local wines, salt and other produce that certain travellers crave, it's transformed itself from a rural waystation to a destination in its own right. Plus, it's surrounded by some lovely rural landscape, criss-crossed by walking and cycling trails within whiffing distance of the salty sea.

1Sights

The town’s attractions are quite spread out and you’ll need a car (or bike) to reach them.

Cap de Ses SalinesLIGHTHOUSE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Carretera de Cap de Ses Salines)

Follow the Ma6110 highway 9km south of Llombards to reach the Cap de Ses Salines, a beautiful bluff on Mallorca's southernmost tip with a lighthouse dating back to 1863. There's not much here, but stretching out along either side of it are wonderfully unspoilt beaches protected by the Reserva Marina del Migjorn de Mallorca.

BotanicactusGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 64 94 94; www.botanicactus.com; Carretera Ses Salines–Santanyí, Km1; adult/child €9.50/4.50; h9am-7pm Mar-Oct, 10.30am-4.30pm Nov-Feb; p)

Just outside Ses Salines is Botanicactus, Mallorca's largest botanical garden. Not just given over to cacti, its 15 hectares bristle with palms, bamboo groves, cypress, carob, orange trees and (naturally) plants with prickles. A wander among its 1600-plus species of Mediterranean, exotic and wetland plants is pleasant in fine weather.

Artestruz MallorcaFARM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %639 721735; www.artestruzmallorca.com; Ma6014, Km14; adult/child €12/7; h10am-8pm, consult website as times vary; c)

The main attraction at this ostrich farm is the chance to see, stroke and feed the birds, which kids will love; you can also see them more active at night. Meals (featuring ostrich meat, eggs and Mallorcan wine) are available with advance notice, and there's also a shop on-site, selling a variety of ostrich-leather products, including bags and fine shoese. If you fancy a challenge, order an ostrich Scotch egg: they weigh 1.3kg even before the casing is added.

Poblat Talaiòtic dels AntigorsARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP )F

One kilometre south of Ses Salines (follow the signposts off the road to Colònia de Sant Jordi) is this neglected archaeological site. There's no visitors' centre, the gate is always open, and only virtually illegible plaques remain, so use your imagination to see how these low stone walls would have once constituted a prehistoric settlement.

TTours

Salines des TrencTOURS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 65 53 06; www.salinasdelevante.com; Carretera Colònia de Sant Jordi–Campos, Km 8.5; hvisits staggered 11am-6pm)

If you fancy getting the inside scoop on des Trenc's famous flor de sal (hand-harvested sea salt), you can join a 45-minute tour of the salt pans, available in Spanish, English and German. The tours explore the salt production process and its history, as well as the life and times of the 170-plus bird species living in the surrounding wetlands.

5Eating

Ses Salines punches well above its weight in the eating department, with at least four establishments (pretty much most of them in town) you'd be delighted to dine at.

oCasa ManoloMALLORCAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 64 91 30; www.bodegabarahona.com; Plaça Sant Bartomeu 2; mains €17-23; h11am-4pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sun)

With its photo-plastered walls and ceilings strung with Serrano hams, this corner bar looks much as it did when it opened in 1945. While the aged, Josper-grilled meat is fantastic, the real secret to its staying power lies in the rice, seafood and fish dishes. Try lobster stew or arròs notari, a rice dish overflowing with seafood and a rich squid-ink sauce.

Asador es TeatreMALLORCAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 64 95 40; www.asadoresteatre.com; Plaça Sant Bartomeu 4; mains €17-21; hnoon-11pm Thu-Tue)

Asador Es Teatre specialises in roast lamb, T-bone steaks and other fine cuts of aged meat, all seared to perfection on the Josper (grill-oven). The building – which has been used as a barbershop, dentist's and even a ballroom – dates to the 19th century; but the outdoor terrace, commanding a fine view of all the town's comings and goings, is the place to be.

CassaiINTERNATIONAL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 64 97 21; http://cassai.es; Carrer de Sitjar 5; mains €17-21; h11am-11pm; W)

The stone-flagged courtyard of this 300-year-old building, graced with creeping ivy, potted shrubs and artfully weathered timber, is a lovely place to linger over an aperitif, tapas or something more substantial. Dishes include lomo de bacalao (cod loin) with tumbet (Mallorcan ratatouille), red tuna curry, and there's a well-priced express lunch (€8.50).

6Drinking & Nightlife

oMon de VinsWINE BAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 64 97 73; www.llumdesal.es; Carrer Burguera Mut 14; h11am-midnight)

A wonderful place to sample the wines of Mallorca (and further afield), this latest outpost of Robert Chaves' burgeoning Llum de Sal empire is strewn with tempting bottles and opens onto an inviting courtyard. Take a bottle away, stay and wash down quality tapas with a few sympathetic glasses, or do both: the choice is yours.

7Shopping

Bodega Llum de SalFOOD & DRINKS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 64 97 73; www.llumdesal.es; Carrer Burguera Mut 14; h9am-midnight, 10am-9pm in winter)

Artworks jazz up the walls of this stone-and-wood, split-level gourmet food store on the main drag – one of the loveliest in this corner of the island. As well as doing great coffee, it sells gourmet food products, including local salt and ready-made herb combinations for fish, meats and even wok cooking.

Flor de Sal d'Es TrencFOOD & DRINKS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 64 28 61; http://flordesaldestrenc.com; Plaça Sant Bartomeu 9; h10am-1.15pm & 5-9.30pm)

The official sales point for the sea salt you'll see for sale all over Mallorca, this shop sells the natural variety, as well as those scented with Mediterranean herbs, boletus mushrooms, black olives and other additions (€8.95 for 150g to 250g). It also sells wines, olive oils and other local goodies.

8Getting There & Away

The easiest way to arrive here is with your own wheels, not least because you’ll need them to explore the surrounding attractions. If you're reliant on public transport, bus 502 runs to Palma (€7.30, 80 minutes, up to 10 daily), Santanyí (€1.50, 10 minutes), Campos (€2.35, 25 minutes) and Colònia de Sant Jordi (€1.50, 10 minutes).

Illa de Cabrera

Nineteen uninhabited islands and islets make up the only national park in the Balearic Islands, the Parc Nacional Marítim-Terrestre de l’Arxipèlag de Cabrera, an archipelago whose dry, hilly islands are known for their birdlife, rich marine environment and abundant lizard populations. The Illa de Cabrera, the largest of the archipelago and the only one you can visit, sits 16km off the coast of Colònia de Sant Jordi. Other islands are used for wildlife research. Only 200 people per day (300 in August) are allowed to visit this highly protected natural area, so reserve your place at least a day ahead. The main park authority is in Palma.

1Sights & Activities

Many enjoy the wonderfully calm beaches, Sa Plageta ( GOOGLE MAP ) and S’Espalmador ( GOOGLE MAP ). The park has an extremely fragile ecosystem and there are few hiking trails open to the public – for most of them you’ll either need to tag along with a guide or request permission from the park information office on Cabrera.

Castillo de CabreraCASTLE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %630 982363; www.balearsnatura.com; Illa de Cabrera)

Attacked, damaged and rebuilt repeatedly since its 14th-century origin, this squat hexagonal tower guards Cabrera's eastern harbour. At one point It was converted into a prison for French soldiers, more than 5000 of whom died after being abandoned in 1809 towards the end of the Peninsular War. It now enjoys peaceful retirement, watching tourists and not pirates disembarking below.

Es CellerMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %630 982363; adult/child €2/free; h11.30am-1pm & 4-6pm)

This restored farmhouse contains an ethnographic and natural history collection. Outside is a small botanic garden in which you can see many endemic Balearic species in the one place.

Mar CabreraBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 65 64 03; www.marcabrera.com; Carrer Gabriel Roca 20; adult/child from €40/25; h8am-10pm, closed Dec & Jan)

Mar Cabrera operates a speedboat service and tours of the Illa de Cabrera and coves of the southern coast.

Excursions a CabreraBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 64 90 34; www.excursionsacabrera.es; Carrer Dofi 1I; adult/child boat €40/25, speedboat €45/29; h8am-10pm high season, to 4pm low season, closed Nov-Feb; c)

Round-trip tours by speedboat or slower boats from Colònia de Sant Jordi to the marine- and birdlife-rich Parc Nacional Marítim-Terrestre de l'Arxipèlag de Cabrera. There are several departures daily.

SNORKELLING OFF THE ILLA DE CABRERA

The island is a wonderful place for snorkelling. While you need special permission to dive here, you can snorkel off the beach. Or, in July and August, sign up for the guided snorkelling excursions offered by park rangers.

8Information

Park Information OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %630 982363; http://en.balearsnatura.com; Port of Cabrera; h8am-2pm & 4-8pm)

Advice and permits for hikes and other things to do on the island.

WILDLIFE WATCHING ON THE ILLA DE CABRERA

This is prime territory for birdwatching: marine birds, birds of prey and migrating birds all call Cabrera home at least part of the year. Common species include the fisher eagle, the endangered Balearic shearwater, Audouin’s gull, Cory’s shearwater, shags, ospreys, Eleonora’s falcon and peregrine falcons.

Terrestrial wildlife is also abundant. The small Balearic lizard is the best-known species on Cabrera. It has few enemies on the archipelago and 80% of the species population lives on Cabrera.

8Getting There & Away

Although private boats can come to Cabrera if they’ve requested navigation and anchoring permits in advance from the park authority, nearly all visitors arrive on the organised tours. Excursions a Cabrera runs both slow boats and speedboats from Colònia de Sant Jordi; Mar Cabrera operates a speedboat service.

On the cruise back to Colònia de Sant Jordi, the boat stops in Sa Cova Blava (Blue Cave), a gorgeous cave with crystalline waters where passengers can take a dip. Speedboats also stop here.

Santanyí

Pop 11,316

Wedged between the Parc Natural de Mondragó and Ses Salines, Santanyí has been well and truly discovered. Travellers are flocking to this handsome inland town, where honey-coloured churches shelter a fine array of bars, boutiques, ceramic shops and restaurants. Such is its popularity with well-heeled German tourists in particular, that every second shop now seems to be an estate agent or art gallery.

Most of the action spirals around the church-dominated Plaça Major, especially on market days (Wednesdays and Saturdays) when stalls selling local produce, leathergoods and trinkets fill every available central street. Once they pack up, the square is given over anew to laid-back cafes and bars that subtly entice you to linger over tapas and drinks, long into the evening.

1Sights

Cala LlombardsBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

A petite cove defined by rough rock walls topped with pines, Cala Llombards is a truly beautiful place. A beach-hut bar and sun loungers shaded by palm-leaf umbrellas constitute the extent of human intervention. The view is soul-satisfying – turquoise waters, a sandy beach and the reddish rocks of the cliffs that lead like a promenade towards the sea. To reach Cala Llombards, follow the sign off the Ma6102 down a stone-walled road bordered by meadows of grazing sheep.

Cala SantanyíBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Cala Santanyí's popular but not overcrowded beach is the star in a scenic show that also includes a gorgeous, cliff-lined cove and impossibly cobalt-coloured waters. The beach sits at the bottom of a ravine of sorts where there is a car park (it's a stiff walk or cycle ride back to the resort centre). A small path leads along the coast, where the natural rock arch El Pontàs rises out of the surf. This is a popular spot to snorkel.

5Eating

Diners are spoilt in Santanyí – every second door hides a tapas bar or restaurant, although prices are inflated by the tourist trade.

AlchemyEUROPEAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 65 39 57; www.alchemysantanyi.com; Plaça Major 9; mains €18-21; h9am-11pm)

Despite the name, Alchemy has nothing to do with molecular gastronomy or other culinary excesses. With its pretty courtyard, slick bistro interior and warm welcome, it keeps its look, feel and food refreshingly simple. You might begin with, say, duck confit with pear chutney, salt cod with roasted peppers, or simply grilled meat and seafood.

Es Molí de SantanyíTAPAS€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 65 36 29; Carrer Consolació 19; tapas €7-13; h1-11pm mid-Feb–mid-Nov)

On the road leading east from Santanyí you'll find the windmill, a sprawling stone-built restaurant with a lovely garden terrace shaded by palms and rubber trees, and serving a great line in tapas. On the menu are imaginative, well-executed morsels for assembling your own little feast, from tuna sashimi to pork loin with sobrassada (spicy cured sausage) custard and roasted quail with lentils.

8Information

There's no tourist office, but the Parc Natural de Mondragò Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 64 20 67; http://en.balearsnatura.com; Carrer de Can Llaneres 8; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri) can advise on visits to this nearby natural park.

8Getting There & Away

Bus connections with Palma are plentiful: take tbus 501 (€6.55, 1¼ hours, up to 10 daily) or bus 502 (€6.55, 1¾ hours with transfer, up to 10 daily).

Cala Figuera

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A twisting fissure in the coastal slab of southern Mallorca forms the impossibly picturesque harbour town of Cala Figuera. Steep scrubby escarpments rise up on all sides from the glassy water, leaving little space for the few houses, bars and restaurants to cling to. Despite its great charm, and proximity to some of Mallorca's busiest resorts, it remains the fishing village it has always been. While a few yachts line up beside the smaller working boats, local fishermen still make their way down the winding inlet before dawn, returning in the evening to mend their nets. Many of their houses have no street access, only private slipways for their launches.

TTours

Red Star ToursBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %664 243464; www.redstartours.com; Carrer Virgen del Carmen 52; h10am-1pm & 3-5pm)

Hop aboard for a 45-minute tour of the surrounding bays including Cala Santanyí (adult/child €20/14), or a 75-minute nature tour (€27/19) taking in a string of little-known coves. Red Star also rents kayaks (€20 for three hours) and rigid inflatable boats (€85 for two hours).

5Eating

oRestaurante Petite IglesiaFRENCH€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 64 50 09; www.la-petite-iglesia.com; Carrer de la Marina 11; mains €17-19, menú €20; h6-11pm daily, 9am-1.30pm Mon-Sat; c)

Inhabiting the shell of a little sandstone church, with outdoor tables under the trees, this atmospheric place serves up terrific French home cooking. Everything is spanking fresh, from the house-baked bread to whatever fish was hauled up to the harbour that day, with special mention going to the lip-smacking terrines and slow-cooked dishes, such as boeuf bourguignon.

L'ArcadaMALLORCAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 645 032; Carrer Virgen del Carmen 80; mains €15-20; hnoon-10.30pm Apr-Oct)

Watch the boats blink in the port at this laid-back hillside restaurant. The seafood – from grilled calamari to Mallorcan prawns and stuffed courgettes – is good, naturally, but don't overlook island-wide faves such as paella, pork loin with tumbet (Mallorcan ratatouille) and rabbit with onions.

Restaurante MistralMEDITERRANEAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 64 51 18; Carrer del Virgen del Carmen 42; mains €18; h6.30-11pm mid-Apr–Oct; c)

Choose between tasty, typical tapas or more elaborate dishes, such as grilled sole with fresh parsley paste, or tumbet with meat or fish at this stylish spot, just up from the port.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Cala Figuera is a quiet, relaxing place. But there's nothing to stop you getting fully relaxed, with a few drinks in one of the bar-restaurants overlooking the harbour.

Bon BarBAR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %691 389867; www.bonbar.es; Carrer Virgen del Carmen 27; h10am-midnight, to 10pm in winter)

Views – that's what this place is all about. High above the main body of the inlet and with uninterrupted vistas, this is the place to nurse a cocktail, or a pa amb oli (bread with oil and other toppings: €11 to €14) or ice cream if it's too early for you.

8Getting There & Away

Bus 503 connects Cala Figuera with Palma (€7.05, 1½ hours, four daily Monday to Saturday, with transfer at Santanyí) and Santanyí (€1.50, 20 minutes).

Portopetro

There’s something in the air in Portopetro. This intimate fishing port’s quiet appeal is immediately apparent as you stroll its steep, shady streets and look out over the protected natural inlet that originally made this town such a hit with fishers. It doesn't have a beach in the town centre, which may be a problem for some, but explains why it's escaped the development rampant in Cala d'Or, just to the north.

2Activities

Petro DiversDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 65 98 46; www.petro-divers.eu; Es Calo d'es Moix 8; h8.30am-6.30pm Mar-Nov; c)

This diving outlet offers the full array of PADI and SSI courses, from intro and children's dives to Open Water Diving certifications. A single dive will set an already-certified diver back €40; the more you book, the cheaper it gets. Petro rents gear, and runs up to four trips per day when things are busy.

5Eating

A string of good Mallorcan restaurants – nothing fancy, but all worth their salt, and all with waterside terraces for good weather – lines the marina.

AventuraMALLORCAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 65 71 67; Carrer de sa Punta Mitjana 11; mains €17-22; hnoon-3.30pm & 6-11pm Apr-Oct)

Breezy harbour views, friendly service and freshly caught fish make Aventura the pick of Portopetro's waterfront bunch. Go for mixed tapas for two (€25) with a bottle of blanco, or spot-on mains like hake with clams or grilled John Dory.

Restaurante MarítimoMALLORCAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 65 80 50; Caló d´en Moix; mains €15-22, lunch menú €14; hnoon-4pm & 7-11.30pm Tue-Sun Feb-Oct; c)

Next to Petro Divers, this friendly, unpretentious restaurant has a bougainvillea-draped terrace from which you can look out across the harbour. Unsurprisingly, fish is its forte, with everything from grilled monkfish to crustacean-studded paellas.

La CaracolaMALLORCAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 65 70 13; Carrer Passeig d'es Port 40; mains €12-17, lunch menú €9; h8am-11pm; c)

Besides the usual paella and pasta, this enduringly popular place has been pleasing diners with plates of calamares rellenos (stuffed squid) lechona (suckling pig) and tumbet (Mallorcan ratatouille) for over 20 years. Not the flashiest place in town, it's nonetheless often the most crowded.

8Getting There & Away

Bus 501 connects Portopetro with Palma (€8.45, 1¾ hours, up to 10 daily) and Cala d’Or (€1.50, 10 minutes).

Parc Natural de Mondragó

A natural park encompassing beaches, dunes, wetlands, coastal cliffs and inland agricultural land, the 766-hectare Parc Natural de Mondragó is a beautiful area for swimming or hiking, but is best known as a birdwatching destination. Only 95 hectares of the park are publicly owned: much of the remainder is still divided into small dry-stone-walled fields known as rotes, bearing almonds, figs, carob and olives.

1Sights & Activities

Most people who head this way come to take a dip in the lovely Cala Mondragó ( GOOGLE MAP ; c), one of the most attractive coves on the east coast. Sheltered by large rocky outcrops and fringed by pine trees, it’s formed by a string of three protected sandy beaches connected by rocky footpaths.

WILDLIFE WATCHING

Birdwatchers have a ball with the varied species found in the area, which include falcons and turtledoves. Among those species that nest here are peregrine falcons and Audouin’s gulls. Taking one of the walking trails that criss-cross the park will give you plenty of birdwatching opportunities. Also keep an eye out for Algerian hedgehogs, Hermann’s tortoise and the Balearic toad.

8Information

The small park office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 18 10 22; http://en.balearsnatura.com; Carretera de Cala Mondragó; h9am-4pm) by the Ses Fonts de n’Alis car park (cars/motorbikes/caravans €5/2/9) has maps with walking suggestions. There's also a park office in Santanyí.

8Getting There & Away

Cala Mondragó is 2km south of Portopetro. High-season bus 507 links Cala Mondragó with Cala d’Or (€1.85, 45 minutes, up to five daily Monday to Saturday, summer only) and a few other seaside resorts.

Cala d'Or

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Although the pretty cove beaches and calm, azure waters are still here, they can be hard to find amid the endless bustle of this flashy, overgrown resort. Cala d'Or's five small calas each have their own main drag, where pubs, restaurants and souvenir shops flourish, making it difficult to get a handle on the place.

2Activities & Tours

Xplore MallorcaOUTDOORS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 65 90 07; www.xploremallorca.com; Carrer s'Alga; hMay-Oct)

Xplore offers mountain-biking (€18), hiking (€15), cycling (€19), quad-biking (€42) and sea-kayaking (€18) excursions of varying duration. Children under 10 years pay half price. Inquire at Moto Sprint.

Sea RidersBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %615 998732; www.searidersweb.com; Cala Llonga; tours adult €22-42, child €17-33; hMay-Oct)

Sea Riders, in Cala Llonga, offers a kid-friendly boat ride as well as a faster 'adrenaline' ride (reaching speeds of over 80km/h) with up to three departures daily in July and August.

Cooking Holidays MallorcaCOOKING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 64 82 03; www.cookingholidaysmallorca.com; Cala d'Or Yacht Club, Avinguda de Cala Llonga)

Cala d'Or's beautifully sited Yacht Club is the venue for these English-language courses teaching the fundamentals of Mallorcan, Spanish and Italian cookery. Day-long courses cost €105 to €140, or you could upgrade to a luxurious four- to six-night 'gourmet break', including bed and board at the Club.

Moto SprintMOTORBIKE HIRE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 65 90 07; www.moto-sprint.com; Carrer d'en Perico Pomar 5; carbon bike/500CC motorbike hire per day €19/69, per week €102/382; h8am-8pm Mar–mid-Nov)

Moto Sprint rents bikes ranging from sturdy commuters to sleek carbon-framed road bikes, and motorbikes from 50CC scooters to powerful 750CC machines. Helmets and locks are included.

5Eating

AquariusSPANISH€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 65 98 76; Port Petit 308; mains €17-21; h10am-midnight Mar-Nov)

A cracking location overlooking the yacht port, chilled music and friendly service makes Aquarius stand out. Snag a spot on the terrace for seafood, such as sea bass with a brick-red romesco sauce or a mean frit Mallorquí (Mallorcan-style fried lamb, liver and vegetables).

Port PetitMEDITERRANEAN€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 64 30 39; www.portpetit.com; Avinguda de Cala Llonga; mains €24-28, menús €20-70; h1-3.30pm & 7-11pm Wed-Mon Apr-Oct)

One of Cala d'Or's top tables, Port Petit puts an innovative spin on local seafood and produce, served on a covered terrace whose dazzling whiteness matches the yachts below. Service is attentive and dishes like fresh lobster sautéed in lime butter, squid with sepia rice or lamb slow-roasted in its own juices are cooked with aplomb.

Yacht Club Cala d'OrMEDITERRANEAN€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 64 82 03; www.yccalador.com; Avinguda de Cala Llonga; mains €20-25; h9am-10pm Mar-Oct; W)

You don't need to be a millionaire yachtie to eat in style at this glass-fronted harbour restaurant, where tables overlook a tantalising infinity pool. The menu is best described as Mallorcan with plenty of international flourishes, as seen in simple dishes such as as wild turbot in sage butter, or tagliolini made with truffled eggs.

8Information

There are two tourist offices in town: one ( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 65 74 63; Carrer d'en Perico Pomar 10; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri) just north of the central grid, and the other ( GOOGLE MAP ; %971 65 97 60; Avinguda de la Cala d'Or 4; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri) inland from Cala Ferrera.

8Getting There & Away

Bus 501 heads to Portopetro (€1.70, 15 minutes, up to eight times daily), then on to Palma (€8.45, 1¾ hours, up to 10 daily). Bus 441 runs along the eastern coast, stopping at all the major resorts.

Hiking in Southern Mallorca

Pristine coastline can be hard to come by in Mallorca, but the walk from Cap de Ses Salines to Colònia de Sant Jordi has it in abundance.

Cap de Ses Salines to Colònia de Sant Jordi

• Start Cap de Ses Salines
• End Colònia de Sant Jordi
• Duration/Distance 9km; 3 hours

The coastal trail between Cap de Ses Salines and Colònia de Sant Jordi is a flat but rocky trek across battered rock outcrops and secluded sandy beaches, perfect for swimming. Be sure to take plenty of water – there are no freshwater sources and very little shade along the way. Plants you’ll see on the trail include wild asparagus and leafy azucena de mar (sea purslane), whose fragrant white flowers appear in July and August.

Leave your car on the shoulder of the road at Cap de Ses Salines, which is signposted from the main highway. From here, head towards the sea and turn right (west). You’ll see the Mediterranean glistening to your left, the Illa de Cabrera in the distance and the private Sa Vall estate, owned by the March family, bordering the walk on your right.

After 30 minutes of a fairly flat walk over the ruddy-coloured rocks that dominate the coast here (the same that give Palma’s Catedral its striking colour), you’ll come upon the first ‘virgin’ beach of the walk, Platja des Cargol, which is protected by a natural rock pier. In summer it can get quite crowded on land and at sea.

Continue along the coast for further coves and beaches, like Cala en Tugores (which you should reach in an hour's walk), Platja de Ses Roquetes and Platja des Carbó (after 2¼ hours) and finally Platja des Dolç (the full three hours). The beaches, with their fine-as-flour sand and gentle gradient (and thus waves) are simply gorgeous. Even with summer crowds, an idyllic backdrop of juniper trees and squawking seagulls ensures that it always feels like an escape.

At the western end of Platja des Carbó is Colònia de Sant Jordi, the end of the walk.

Cap Blanc

If you’re travelling the coast road from Palma to Capocorb Vell and Cala Pi, take the short detour to this wind-torn, atmospheric headland. If you're on the Ma6014 highway south from S’Arenal, turn right at the sign pointing to ‘Cap Blanc’. You’ll soon come across a lighthouse and desolate-seeming military compound, where you can park.

You can’t get right up to the lighthouse, but can wander around its outbuildings to the sheer cliff it surmounts. From here, the views along the ruddy cliff-face, with Palma and the western mountains in one direction, the Illa de Cabrera in the other, and seabirds circling the Mediterranean sky overhead, are nothing short of breathtaking. If the wind isn't too fierce, this makes a fabulous picnic spot. But be careful with kids or dogs – there's no fence and the drop is abrupt, and almost certainly fatal.

Hiking the Illa de Cabrera

The best-known walking route heads up to a restored 14th-century castle, a fortress once used to keep pirates off the island.The 30-minute walk to the castle meanders along the northern side of the island before taking you to the 80m-high bluff where the castle looms.

Guides also sometimes lead the 20-minute walk to Es Celler, a farmhouse-turned museum once home to the Feliu family, which owned the entire island in the early 20th century. Nearby stands a monument to the French prisoners who died on Cabrera.

Other possible routes lead to the N’Ensiola lighthouse (four hours, permission required), the southern sierra of Serra de Ses Figueres (2½ hours, permission required), or the highest point of the island, the 172m Picamosques (three hours, permission required).