grilled summer squash and cherry tomatoes
tofu-vegetable kebabs with curry-peanut sauce
grilled ginseng chicken with lime-peanut sauce
grape leaf–wrapped tofu in thai sauce
dumpling burgers with grilled vegetables
lamb kebabs with curry-peanut sauce
almond trout with mango-ginger salsa
salmon with sun-dried tomato–green tea sauce
salmon steaks with mango-ginger salsa
In China, like many families there, we cooked all of our food on a small coal stove, and later, a gas stove. The first time I tasted grilled food was at a barbecue party put on by my graduate school advisor at the University of Colorado, Boulder.
I was astonished when she brought out a tray laden with precut fish, meat and vegetables still in their packages, and delegated control of the grill to two of my classmates who had volunteered. While they cooked the food, she sat in one of the lawn chairs and enjoyed the conversation with us. Everything seemed so simple and hassle free. I couldn’t help remembering the parties my mother hosted. She could never take a break from washing, cutting, and cooking in the kitchen, let alone have a chance to sit down and enjoy a long conversation with guests.
Even though I disliked the hot dogs and the thick steaks served at the party, I enjoyed the fish and vegetables, and most importantly, the casual, relaxed atmosphere and great conversation. It reminded me of my times spent with friends and family in China.
During my next monthly phone call with my mother, I excitedly described the party to her. She listened quietly as I described the barbecue. In her next letter, she voiced her concern over my diet, and stressed that grilled foods, especially meats, are laden with heat, and that if I consumed them in the summer, I should balance the excess yang with yin foods. Since then, I always serve a cooling salad or salsa alongside grilled foods, and marinate the meats in a complementary sauce. Many of the sauces in this book can be used as a delicious marinade. They contain less fat and sodium than most commercial brands and are high in healthful components.
Studies have shown that foods do not absorb the marinade once they are on the grill. So for optimal flavor, allow time to marinate before cooking, as directed in the recipes. Besides infusing the meat with flavor, marinating prevents the rapid loss of water from its surface during grilling, which can cause harmful heterocyclic amine mutagens to form. It’s an important sanitary practice to stop basting a few minutes before the end of cooking and discard any unused marinade.
By following the simple recipes in this chapter, even the most timid take-out chef should be able to confidently prepare a delicious meal. Or, you can follow the example of my advisor, and enjoy the party while letting your guests cook for you!
Unlike other cooking methods, times for grilled food vary due to many factors that affect the cooking process. This includes the type of the grill and the source of the heat, how clean and airtight your grill is, what other foods you are grilling at the same time, how often you peek, and even how windy it is in your backyard. There are also the considerations of temperature, the freshness of your food, the type of marinade you are using, and individual preference for doneness.
So, let your nose and eyes, not the clock, help determine when the food is done to your liking. Use the cooking times in the recipes and the following guidelines to determine doneness.
Shiitake mushrooms are a common ingredient in Asian dishes. They are believed to have antiviral, immune-system-strengthening, and antitumor effects. As a child, most of the shiitakes I ate were dried because fresh ones were rare. When I first saw large, fresh, organic shiitake mushrooms, I could hardly contain my excitement. Mushrooms are perfect for the grill. As they release their moisture, their flavor intensifies.
Purchase mushrooms with large caps for this dish. If fresh shiitakes aren’t available, portobello mushrooms are a delicious swap. Serve as a side dish or as a sandwich filling along with other grilled vegetables.
Makes 4 servings
1. Combine the oil, garlic, green onions, salt, and pepper in a bowl.
2. Add the mushrooms to the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for 4 hours.
3. Brush the grill rack generously with oil and preheat the grill to medium-low. Grill the mushroom caps, brushing with the marinade occasionally, until lightly browned on both sides, about 5 minutes per side. Serve hot.
I’m not an experienced gardener, but growing my own vegetables always makes me feel like a seasoned farmer. At the beginning of each summer, I plant a few squash and tomatoes in my garden. The endless harvest of both through the season adds a delightfully fresh splash of taste and color to my meals.
For this recipe, use a grill basket that is designed to be placed directly on the grill to keep small slices of vegetables from slipping into the coals. If you don’t have one, line the grill with a large sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil.
Makes 6 servings
1. Place all of the ingredients in a bowl and toss to coat. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 2 hours.
2. Brush the grill rack generously with oil and preheat the grill to medium. Place the vegetable mixture in a grilling tray. Discard the marinade.
3. Grill the vegetables, turning occasionally, until golden and tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Serve hot.
A few years ago, I went to Hanoi, Vietnam. While my fellow travelers visited historical sites, I spent a day wandering around the narrow streets and observed the food peddlers. This dish was inspired by my lunch—seafood and tropical fruit kebabs served with peanut sauce. I created this simple, homemade version by using baked tofu and substituted vegetables for the fruit.
Makes 4 servings
1. Preheat the oven to 400ºF. Lightly coat a baking pan with oil. Place the tofu on the pan and bake for 30 minutes. Cut the tofu horizontally into 2 large pieces, then cut those in half vertically, and then into quarters to make 8 equal cubes.
2. In a large bowl, combine the tofu, sauce, bell peppers, and onions. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 2 hours, turning gently two times. Soak eight 10-inch bamboo skewers in cold water for at least 30 minutes.
3. Oil the grill rack and preheat the grill to medium. Thread alternating pieces of tofu, bell pepper, and onion on the skewers. Place the kebabs on the grill and cook until the kebabs are brown and crisp, 3 to 4 minutes per side.
I have to credit my friends in Singapore for this dish. They invited me to a gathering at which they served a memorable grilled chicken with a pungent lime-peanut sauce. In my version, I coat the chicken with cooling ginseng, which gives the chicken an exotic variety of aroma and flavors. To make a full meal, serve it with whole wheat pasta and a cooling green salad.
Makes 4 servings
1. Rinse the chicken and pat dry with paper towels. Cut a couple of inch-long slashes in the chicken to allow the marinade to penetrate. Place the chicken in a shallow baking dish. Pour ½ cup of the sauce over the chicken and toss to coat. Cover and let the chicken marinate in the refrigerator overnight or for at least 4 hours.
2. Brush the grill rack generously with oil and preheat the grill to medium-low.
3. Place the ginseng tea in a shallow bowl. Remove the chicken from the marinade and dip each piece in the tea to coat thoroughly. Discard the marinade. Place the chicken on the rack and grill until cooked through and no longer pink, 15 to 20 minutes per side, turning once halfway through.
4. In a small saucepan, bring the remaining ½ cup sauce to a boil. Drizzle over the chicken and serve hot.
Marinated ribs become tender and juicy, and a Spicy Sesame Sauce gives them a delightful Asian accent. When grilled, the intoxicating aroma of the sauce will arouse every diner’s anticipation. This is my evolved version of traditional American barbecued ribs.
Makes 4 servings
1. Rinse the ribs, pat dry with paper towels, and slice them into individual pieces.
2. Combine the ribs and sauce in a large container. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator overnight or for at least 4 hours.
3. Brush the grill rack generously with oil and preheat the grill to medium-low. Remove the ribs from the marinade. Reserve the marinade.
4. Place the ribs on the rack and grill, basting frequently with the remaining marinade. Stop basting 5 minutes before the ribs are done. Discard any unused marinade. Grill the ribs until they are golden brown, tender, and no longer pink inside, 12 to 15 minutes per side. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds and serve hot.
Freezing and thawing changes tofu’s consistency. It becomes less likely to crumble. After pressing out the excess water in the tofu, it readily absorbs other flavors. In this recipe, the scent of the ginseng and the taste of the fresh grape leaves complement the pungent peanut sauce, transforming the mild tofu into an unforgettable sensation.
Makes 4 to 6 servings
1. Place the tofu in its package in the freezer overnight. Let it thaw in the refrigerator or in a bowl of cold water. Drain the package water from the tofu. Rinse the tofu under cold running water.
2. Place the tofu on a cutting board and press out any excess water. Cut the tofu into 4-inch cubes.
3. In a medium bowl, toss the tofu with the sauce to coat. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 3 hours, turning once.
4. In a large pot, bring the water to a boil. Add the grape leaves and boil until the leaves soften and turn bright green, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain the leaves in a colander.
5. Lay two leaves with a 2-inch overlap on an 8-inch-square piece of aluminum foil. Place one piece of tofu in the middle and sprinkle on some lemongrass and ginseng. Tightly fold over the four corners of the leaves. Repeat with the remaining ingredients.
6. Brush the grill rack generously with oil and preheat the grill to medium. Place the grape leaf–wrapped tofu on the rack and grill until the tofu is heated through, about 8 minutes per side. Serve hot.
Like me, this dish has traveled a long way. In the ’80s, when I worked as a translator for China’s National Seismology Bureau, I went to Nanzhou, a northern city near the Silk Road. It was there that I first tasted beef-vegetable kebabs in a Middle Eastern restaurant. The meat was tender and burst with flavors.
In this dish, I marinate the beef with pungent spices, such as chile, garlic, and lemongrass and finish it with Western-inspired Sun-Dried Tomato–Green Tea Sauce. For a seafood or vegetarian version, replace the beef with one pound of sea scallops, shrimp, or cubed extra-firm tofu.
Makes 8 kebabs
1. Place the beef cubes in a bowl with the chile, lemongrass, garlic, tea, soy sauce, sesame oil, and lemon juice. Toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours or overnight.
2. Soak 8 bamboo skewers in cold water for at least 30 minutes. Brush the grill rack generously with olive oil and preheat the grill to medium-low. Alternately thread the beef, onion, squash, and tomatoes onto the skewers.
3. Place the kebabs on the rack and grill on both sides until the beef is no longer pink and the vegetables are tender and lightly browned, 6 to 7 minutes per side. Serve with the Sun-Dried Tomato–Green Tea Sauce.
Note: To cook indoors, see “All about Kebabs.”
One day, as I was preparing filling to make dumplings for guests, I realized that I didn’t have enough dumpling skins. My son reached into the bowl and began fashioning the filling into patties. We grilled our “dumpling burgers” and sandwiched them between fresh vegetables. When all of the guests asked for the recipe, I knew I had to include this dish in my cookbook.
Makes 8 servings
1. In a large bowl, mix the meat with the basil, chile, and 1½ tablespoons of the oil and season with a bit of salt. Cover and refrigerate for 10 minutes.
2. In a large bowl, gently toss the zucchini and tomatoes with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, the vinegar, lemon juice, and ½ teaspoon salt.
3. Brush the grill rack generously with oil and preheat the grill to medium. Divide the meat mixture into 8 equal portions and flatten each with your hands to make a patty. Grill the hamburgers until the meat is cooked through, turning once, about 2 minutes per side.
4. Grill the zucchini and tomatoes, turning them frequently until the zucchini softens and both the zucchini and tomatoes are browned on both sides.
5. To serve: Place the hamburgers between the grilled vegetables and serve with or without toasted bread or buns.
I didn’t eat lamb often until a recent visit to my Chinese doctor for my tennis elbow. After taking my pulse and inspecting my tongue, he surprised me by instructing me to eat lamb and other yang foods, to help nourish my blood and invigorate circulation. After a change in diet, rest, and a few acupuncture treatments, I’m back to the badminton court, and lamb has become one of my favorite sources of protein.
The combination of lamb and ginseng will stimulate energy levels and strengthen your chi. Tender lamb is ideal for these kebabs. Serve them with whole grain on cold days or a cooling green salad to balance their yang during summer.
Makes 4 servings
1. Place the lamb in a medium bowl. Add the chile, lemongrass, garlic, ginseng, oil, and salt and toss well to combine. Cover and refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours or overnight.
2. Soak 8 bamboo skewers in cold water for at least 30 minutes. Brush the grill rack generously with oil and preheat the grill to medium-low. Thread the lamb cubes onto the skewers. Reserve the marinade.
3. Brush the kebabs with the reserved marinade and place on the grill rack. Grill on both sides until browned, brushing with marinade again before turning, 5 to 6 minutes per side. Stop basting 5 minutes before the kebabs are done. Discard the unused marinade. Serve with the Curry-Peanut Sauce.
Note: To cook the kebabs indoors see “All about Kebabs.”
One summer, when I visited friends in a small town in Colorado, I offered to cook dinner for them. In their local health food store, I found juicy steaks and the ingredients for the sauce. I then stopped at their farmers’ market and bought fresh mushrooms and chile peppers. To make this dish into a complete meal, I served it with Couscous-Fennel Salad with Oranges and Almonds. The next day, I tossed the leftover sliced steak with noodles and vegetables for a quick, delicious lunch.
Makes 4 servings
1. To prepare the steak: Trim any fat from the steaks and place in a shallow container.
2. Add the sauce to the steaks, cover, and marinate in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
3. Brush the grill rack generously with oil and preheat the grill to high. Grill the steaks until they reach the desired doneness, 7 to 8 minutes per side, basting once or twice with the marinade. Stop basting about 5 minutes before the steak has finished cooking. Discard the unused marinade.
4. To make the topping: Combine all of the ingredients in a nonstick grill pan and grill over medium-high heat until the vegetables are soft and fragrant, about 2 minutes.
5. Garnish the steaks with the topping and serve hot.
This recipe is reminiscent of my sister-in-law’s stir-fried orange shrimp, which I couldn’t stop thinking about on the flight home from a recent visit to China. I decided to experiment with my own version. I marinated shrimp overnight with pungent orange, ginger, and chile to infuse it with flavor before grilling. The result was worth every bit of effort. To make it into a healthy meal, serve it on top of whole wheat pasta along with a simple green salad.
Makes 6 servings
1. To make the marinade: Combine the orange juice, orange zest, rice vinegar, soy sauce, oil, ginger, green onion, cilantro, and chile in a bowl.
2. Add the shrimp to the marinade and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes or overnight.
3. Brush the grill rack generously with oil and preheat the grill to medium-low. Remove the shrimp from the marinade, and reserve the marinade.
4. Add the shrimp to a grill tray and grill, turning and basting with the reserved marinade, until the shrimp turn pink, 5 to 7 minutes per side. Stop basting 2 minutes before the shrimp are done. Discard the unused marinade. Add the oranges and toss to combine. Grill just until the oranges are warmed through.
When I lived in Colorado, most of the available seafood was frozen, except fresh brook trout. This quickly became one of my family’s favorite seafood dishes.
To select the best trout, look for fish with clear, bright eyes, and avoid those with eyes that appear milky or sunken. Other fatty, delicate fish, such as salmon, bluefish, steelhead trout, or arctic char, make for good substitutes.
Makes 4 servings
1. Brush the grill rack generously with oil and preheat the grill to medium-low. Cut three diagonal slashes on each side of the fish. Rub the fish inside and out with salt and pepper. Stuff the slashes and the body cavity with the green onions and ginger.
2. Brush the outside of the fish with the oil. Place the trout on the grill rack and cook until browned on the outside and opaque close to the bone, 5 to 8 minutes per side.
3. As the trout cooks, grill the bell peppers until tender and browned, 5 to 7 minutes.
4. Arrange the grilled bell peppers around the fish. Garnish the fish with the almonds. Serve with the Mango-Ginger Salsa.
Note: This recipe also works well when cooked on a stove-top grill pan.
My longtime love for salmon intensified after one of my badminton partners, a retired doctor, couldn’t stop talking about its health benefits. I learned that our bodies don’t produce omega-3 fatty acids, so we must get them from supplements or foods like oily fish, dark leafy vegetables, olive oil, and nuts.
Oily fish, such as salmon, are high in omega-3 fatty acids, which can protect against heart disease, help maintain vision by protecting the retina, and help brain cells transmit electrical signals. The peach and Sun-Dried Tomato–Green Tea Sauce adds a sweet, exotic touch to this simple salmon dish.
Makes 4 servings
1. To prepare the salmon: Place the salmon fillets in a shallow pan. Spoon the sauce over the salmon and turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate overnight or for at least 4 hours, turning twice.
2. Brush the grill rack generously with oil and preheat the grill to medium-high.
3. To make the garnish: Place the onion, peach, and watercress in a bowl. Toss with the vinegar and oil. Cover and refrigerate while the salmon cooks.
4. Remove the salmon from the marinade, and reserve the marinade. Season the salmon with salt and pepper on both sides.
5. Place the salmon on the grill rack and grill until opaque throughout, 4 to 6 minutes per side, basting occasionally with the reserved marinade. Stop basting about 2 minutes before the salmon has finished cooking. Discard the unused marinade.
6. Arrange the fish on four plates and garnish each with the onion, peach, and watercress just before serving.
Note: To cook the salmon in the oven, preheat the broiler. Line a baking sheet with a piece of aluminum foil coated with cooking spray. Broil the fish, 2 to 3 inches from the heat source, for 4 to 6 minutes per side, until the fish flakes when tested with a fork.
At my public speaking events, a common question the audience asks is, “What are your favorite foods?” This one is among the dishes I name. It is common knowledge that salmon is high in omega-3 fatty acids, which are good for the heart. It is also one of the best dietary sources of vitamin D.
When grilled, the high heat sears the salmon, and the sesame seeds form a thin crust that seals in the flavor and adds a nutty taste and a crunchy texture. The fish can be served on top of a fresh garden salad, making for a satisfying meal.
Makes 4 servings
1. Brush the grill rack generously with oil and preheat the grill to medium-high. In a small bowl, mix the red pepper flakes, ginger, sugar, cumin, thyme, garlic salt, oil, and lemon juice.
2. Using your hands, rub both sides of the fillets with the spice mixture and then coat them with ½ cup of the sesame seeds.
3. Place the fillets on the grill rack and grill, turning once, 5 to 8 minutes per side. Divide the salmon equally among four plates. Top with the remaining sesame seeds and serve hot, accompanied by the Mango-Ginger Salsa.
Growing up, I only had dried scallops, and they were considered a rare delicacy. When I saw giant, fresh, shiny scallops in stores, I was overjoyed. Grilling is my favorite method of cooking scallops because it brings out their sweetness. In this dish, the sour, salty, and pungent Lime-Soy-Ginger Sauce enhances the flavor of the scallops beautifully.
These kebabs cook quickly and are best served hot, so place them all on the grill at the same time. The cooling watercress balances the yang in this dish.
Makes 4 servings
1. Place ½ cup of the sauce and the scallops in a bowl and toss to coat. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 hours.
2. Soak four 12-inch bamboo skewers in cold water for at least 30 minutes. Brush the grill rack generously with oil and preheat the grill to medium.
3. Drain the scallops, and reserve the marinade. Alternately thread the scallops, onion, and bell peppers onto the skewers; brush with the reserved marinade.
4. Place the kebabs on the grill rack and cook, turning and basting with the remaining reserved marinade, until the scallops turn opaque, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Stop basting 2 minutes before the kebabs are done. Discard the unused marinade
5. Divide the skewers equally among four plates and garnish with the watercress. Bring the remaining ½ cup sauce to a boil and serve as a dipping sauce. Serve with rice, noodles, or grilled tortillas.
Note: To cook the kebabs indoors see “All about Kebabs.”
The first time I tasted grilled bananas and fish was in Vietnam. I couldn’t get a translation for the name of the white fish I was served, but after much experimentation, I found that sea bass has a similar flavor. Grilled bananas offer a warm, sweet, and rich counterpart to the tender fish. Peel the bananas just before serving. This dish makes for a perfect hot summer night’s meal.
Makes 4 servings
1. Place the fish in a shallow dish, cover with the sauce, and marinate for 1 hour in the refrigerator.
2. Brush the grill rack generously with oil and preheat the grill to medium-low. Remove the fish from the marinade and discard the marinade. Grill the fish until it flakes when tested with a fork, 4 to 6 minutes per side.
3. Grill the bananas in the peels alongside the fish until soft, about 4 minutes. Using a heatproof spatula, transfer the fish and bananas to a serving plate. Peel the bananas and cut into big pieces.
4. Drizzle the melted butter over the bananas, and garnish the fish with the Papaya-Mango Salsa. Serve hot.
