“I love the earthy, almost dirt-y, flavor of black trumpet mushrooms. A sauce of parsley, shallots, and white wine will help them to release their flavor—especially paired with seitan and roasted potatoes.”

—JORGE PINEDA, CANDLE 79 (NEW YORK CITY)

Dishes

Artichoke and Green Garlic Soup with Black Trumpet Mushroom Crouton

—Chez Panisse (Berkeley, CA)

 

image MUSHROOMS, BUTTON (aka WHITE MUSHROOMS)

Season: year-round

Flavor: slightly sweet, with earthy notes, and a tender texture

What they are: common, everyday mushrooms

Volume: very quiet (raw)–quiet/moderate (cooked)

Nutritional profile: 50% carbs / 37% protein / 13% fats

Calories: 15 per 1-cup serving (raw, sliced)

Protein: 2 grams

Techniques: bake, braise, broil, sauté, steam, stir-fry, stuff

Botanical relatives: cremini, enoki, and portobello mushrooms

barley

buckwheat

cheese, cream

chile pepper flakes

cilantro

coconut milk

curries

fennel

garlic

lemon, e.g., juice

miso, e.g., red

mushrooms, other, e.g., wild

noodles, e.g., egg

oil, olive

olives, e.g., Italian

paprika

parsley

rice, wild

salads, e.g., green, mushroom

sauces, e.g., mushroom

scallions

soups

sour cream

stews

stock, e.g., mushroom

stuffed mushrooms

tamari

yogurt

“People who don’t like white button mushrooms probably haven’t had them cooked well—which is seared on screamingly high heat. You want to caramelize them in some garlic and olive oil, seasoned with chili flakes and parsley.”

—ERIC TUCKER, MILLENNIUM (SAN FRANCISCO)

 

 

MUSHROOMS, CHICKEN OF THE WOODS

Season: summer–autumn

Flavor: notes of chicken, crab, lemon, lobster, and/or turkey, with a chicken-like texture

Volume: quiet–moderate

Techniques: braise, broil, grill, marinate, roast, sauté, simmer, stir-fry

Tip: This is a species of mushroom different from hen of the woods.

artichokes, Jerusalem

butter

carrots

celery root

cheese, e.g., cream, Monterey Jack, Parmesan

cream

eggs

garlic

greens, salad

lemon, e.g., juice

mushrooms, other, e.g., button, shiitake

noodles

nuts

onions

orange

parsley

pastas

pepper, e.g., black, white

polenta

rice

risottos

rosemary

salt

sauces, e.g., pasta, teriyaki

shallots

stock, mushroom

tarragon

thyme

wine, e.g., dry white

image

 

Dishes

Pesto-Stuffed Mushrooms: Cremini Mushrooms stuffed with Pistachio Pesto

—118 Degrees (California)

 

image MUSHROOMS, ENOKI (aka ENOKITAKE)

[enn-OH-kee or enn-oh-kee-TAH-kee]

Flavor: slightly sweet, with fruity (e.g., grape) notes, and a tender yet crisp/crunchy texture (and chewy when cooked)

Volume: quiet

Nutritional profile: 70% carbs / 23% protein / 7% fats

Calories: 30 per 1-cup serving (raw, sliced)

Protein: 2 grams

Techniques: deep-fry, raw, simmer, steam, stir-fry

Tip: Use these tiny long-stemmed mushrooms as garnishes.

Botanical relatives: button, cremini, and portobello mushrooms

apples

Asian cuisines

basil and Thai basil

beans, long

bell peppers, e.g., red

carrots

cayenne

cheese, Parmesan

chives

cucumbers

dill

garlic

ginger

hoisin

JAPANESE CUISINE

lemon, e.g., juice

lemongrass

miso

mushrooms, other, e.g., portobello, shiitake, white

oil, olive

pepper, e.g., black, white

radishes

SALADS

salt

sandwiches

sauces

scallions

shallots

slaws

SOUPS, e.g., clear, miso

SOY SAUCE

spring rolls

stir-fries

stock, vegetable

sushi

tamari

tofu

vinegar

watercress

Flavor Affinities

enoki mushrooms + garlic + Parmesan cheese

enoki mushrooms + soy sauce + tofu + vegetable stock

Dishes

Enoki Doki Hand Roll: Enoki, Shiitake, Portobello Mushroom, Cashew, Ginger, Romaine, Black Rice with Hot Pepper Paste

—Beyond Sushi (New York City)

 

 

MUSHROOMS, HEN OF THE WOODS (aka MAITAKE MUSHROOMS)

Season: autumn

Flavor: umami, with rich, earthy notes of chicken, garlic, lobster, meat, and/or nuts, and a firm, meaty texture

Volume: quiet–moderate

Nutritional profile: 74% carbs / 21% protein / 5% fats

Calories: 30 per 1-cup serving (raw, diced)

Protein: 1 gram

Techniques: braise, grill, roast, sauté (about 5 minutes), simmer, stew

Tip: Soak in water or stock for 30 minutes before using.

Botanical relative: shiitake mushrooms

breadcrumbs

bruschettas

butter

celery root

cheese, pecorino

chiles, e.g., jalapeño

Chinese cuisine

cilantro

cornmeal

cream

dashi

fiddlehead ferns

garlic

grains

gravies

herbs

horseradish

hot sauce

Japanese cuisine

leeks

lemon juice

lentils, e.g., black

lime juice

Madeira

mascarpone

miso, white

mushrooms, other, e.g., oyster, shiitake

mustard

noodles, e.g., soba

oil, e.g., grapeseed, olive, truffle

onions and spring onions

orange, e.g., juice

PARSLEY

pastas

pâtés, mushroom

PEPPER, BLACK

pizzas

polenta

RICE

salads

salt, e.g., kosher

sauces, e.g., pasta

scallions

SESAME, e.g., oil, seeds

shallots

SOUPS

soy sauce

spinach

stews

stir-fries

stock, e.g., mushroom, vegetable

sweet potatoes

tamari

thyme

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, sherry

walnuts

wine, e.g., port

Worcestershire sauce, vegetarian

Flavor Affinities

hen of the woods mushrooms + celery root + mustard

hen of the woods mushrooms + garlic + greens + olive oil

hen of the woods mushrooms + garlic + olive oil + parsley + pasta

hen of the woods mushrooms + lemon juice + miso + tamari

hen of the woods mushrooms + parsley + rice

“We serve a roasted maitake mushroom with celery root fritter and grilled leek rémoulade. We love the texture of the mushroom because it is a wedge, so you get the singed, frilly little edge of the mushroom along with the juicy succulent base.”

—RICH LANDAU AND KATE JACOBY, VEDGE (PHILADELPHIA)

Maitake mushrooms are massive umami bombs. When they’re dried in the oven, they have a—dare I say—bacon-esque quality to them.”

—ERIC TUCKER, MILLENNIUM (SAN FRANCISCO)

Dishes

Hen + Egg: Hen of the Woods Mushroom, Soft Poached Egg, Beluga Lentils, Fresh Herbs

—The Acorn (Vancouver)

Hen of the Woods Mushroom Pâté, Vidalia Onion Marmalade, Herb Butter

—Green Zebra (Chicago)

Egg Yolk Gnocchi, Mushroom Brown Butter, Hen of the Woods

—Ink (Los Angeles)

Roasted Maitake and Asparagus, with Apple, Radish, Beets, Parsnip Puree

—Natural Selection (Portland, OR)

Roasted Maitake Mushroom with Crispy Sunchoke, English Peas, Creamy Horseradish

—Vedge (Philadelphia)

Tamari and Maple Roasted Maitake-Pecan Cream Tamale with Grilled Broccoli Raab, a Cardamom Mole Roja, and a Black Lemon Tequila Gastrique

—Sutra (Seattle)

 

MUSHROOMS, LOBSTER

Season: summer–autumn

Flavor: salty/sweet, with notes of shellfish (e.g., lobster!), and a firm yet tender, chewy texture (not unlike lobster meat)

Volume: quiet

What they are: bright red-orange fungi (not actually mushrooms)

Techniques: bake, braise, sauté, simmer, stir-fry

butter

cheese, e.g., pecorino

corn

cream

dill

eggs, e.g., frittatas, omelets

garlic

ginger

mushrooms, other, e.g., oyster

oil, olive

onions

pastas

rice

risottos

rosemary

salt

sauces, creamy

soups and bisques

stews

stir-fries

stock, mushroom or vegetable

stuffings

tarragon

terrines, mushroom

thyme

tofu

vinegar

zucchini and zucchini blossoms

Dishes

Pasta with Lobster Mushrooms, Squash, Pecorino, and Squash Blossom Butter

—FnB Restaurant (Scottsdale, AZ)

 

MUSHROOMS, MAITAKE (see MUSHROOMS, HEN OF THE WOODS)

 

“There is nothing on the planet like matsutake mushrooms! You’ve got to treat them delicately. I’ve served them with housemade buckwheat noodles, or simply grilled over rice.”

—ERIC TUCKER, MILLENNIUM (SAN FRANCISCO)

“There may be no more prized ingredient in Japanese cuisine than matsutake mushrooms. They are as celebrated in Japan as truffles are in Italy or France. I love the texture of the mushroom, and will never forget a shockingly good version of a sukiyaki dish I tasted that featured them. But that dish was like a short-distance dash—and I like serving them cooked in a pot as a dobin mushi, which really celebrates their lasting flavor and is more like a long-distance marathon.”

—RYOTA UESHIMA, KAJITSU (NEW YORK CITY)

Dishes

Matsutake Sukiyaki Donburi: Matsutake Mushroom cooked with Konnyaku, Scallion, and Choji-Fu, served over Rice

—Kajitsu (New York City)

Matsutake Takiawase: Japanese Taro, Pumpkin-Fu, and Yuzu Zest on Top

—Kajitsu (New York City)

Braised Matsutake Mushrooms: Broccoli and Black Sesame Paste, Braising Jus infused with Yuzu

—Mélisse (Santa Monica, CA)

Grilled Matsutake Mushrooms with Miso Custard, Ginger, Soy, and Kaffir Lime

—The Point (Saranac Lake, NY)

 

Morel mushrooms are so decadent tasting—I’ll cook them in Earth Balance with salt and pepper and serve them with a splash of champagne vinegar.”

—MARK SHADLE, G-ZEN (BRANFORD, CT)

“You can find morels up in the Sierras in the springtime, when I’ll pick them myself. The fat in cashew cream carries the flavor of the morels beautifully. I might serve them paired with peas in a pastry dough.”

—ERIC TUCKER, MILLENNIUM (SAN FRANCISCO)

Dishes

Cavatelli, Morels, Peas, Ricotta, and Fresh Chiles

—ABC Kitchen (New York City)

One-Hour Poached Hen’s Egg with Morel Mushrooms, Swiss Chard, and Liquorice

—Charlie Trotter’s (Chicago)

Scaloppini with Marsala-Glazed Morel Mushrooms

—Crossroads (Los Angeles)

Foraged Morel Mushrooms, Fiddlehead Ferns, Hollandaise

—Green Zebra (Chicago)

Oregon Morel Risotto with Spring Peas, Baby Spinach, Asparagus, Shaved Pecorino

—Nora (Washington, DC)

Handrolled Potato Gnocchi and Morels with English Peas, Asparagus, Fiddlehead Ferns, Pea Shoots, Goat Ricotta

—Nora (Washington, DC)

 

MUSHROOMS, OYSTER

Season: autumn

Flavor: sweet and earthy, with notes of butter, oysters, pepper, and/or seafood, and a chewy, tender texture

Volume: quiet (cooked)

Nutritional profile: 60% carbs / 31% protein / 9% fats

Calories: 40 per 1-cup serving (raw, sliced)

Protein: 3 grams

Techniques: confit, deep-fry, roast, sauté, stew, stir-fry (Note: Do not eat raw.)

Tips: The cooking process lowers the volume of the flavor. Cook quickly, and do not overcook, lest you lose it all! Use as a substitute for oysters in bisques and other dishes.

artichokes (including Jerusalem)

arugula

Asian cuisines

asparagus

basil

bay leaf

beans, black

beans, fermented black

beans, green

bread crumbs

BUTTER

cabbage, e.g., red

carrots

celery

celery root

cheese, e.g., Parmesan, Swiss, Taleggio

chervil

chiles, e.g., chipotle, green, jalapeño

Chinese cuisine

chives

chowders

cider

cilantro

cinnamon

coconut and coconut milk

coriander

cornmeal

cream

crepes

cumin

curries, e.g., green

dashi

dill

eggplant, e.g., Japanese

eggs, e.g., quiches, scrambled

fennel

GARLIC

ginger

gratins

greens, e.g., Asian

horseradish

Japanese cuisine

kale

Korean cuisine

leeks

lemon, e.g., juice, zest

lemongrass

lettuce

lime

mint

mirin

MUSHROOMS, OTHER, e.g., button, enoki, lobster, shiitake

mustard, Dijon

noodles, e.g., rice, soba

nutmeg

NUTS, e.g., almonds, hazelnuts, peanuts, pecans, pine nuts, walnuts

OIL, e.g., canola, hazelnut, nut, OLIVE, pecan, sesame, walnut

ONIONS, e.g., red, yellow

oranges and orange juice

panko

PARSLEY

parsnips

PASTA, e.g., fettuccine, linguini, pappardelle, ravioli, tagliatelle

pesto

pizza

polenta

potatoes

radicchio

rice, e.g., brown, jasmine

rosemary

sage

sake

salads, e.g., warm

salsify

SAUCES, e.g., cream, white

scallions

seitan

SHALLOTS

SOUPS, BISQUES and CHOWDERS, e.g., mushroom

sour cream

soy sauce

spinach

squash, e.g., delicata, kabocha

stews

stir-fries

stock, e.g., mushroom, vegetable

sumac

tamarind

tarragon

tarts

tempura

teriyaki

THYME

TOFU

tomatoes

vegetables

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, cider, rice wine

wine, e.g., rice, white

za’atar

zucchini

Flavor Affinities

oyster mushrooms + bay leaf + olive oil + thyme

oyster mushrooms + cider + cream + polenta + sage

oyster mushrooms + cream + parsley + pizza

oyster mushrooms + fermented black beans + ginger

oyster mushrooms + garlic + lemon + parsley + pasta

oyster mushrooms + lemon + mint + pasta + zucchini

oyster mushrooms + rosemary + tomatoes

“The inspiration for my artichoke oysters dish [which is served with artichoke puree, crispy oyster mushrooms, yellow tomato béarnaise, and kelp caviar] came from peeling an artichoke one day. I was peeling the leaves and one fell on a plate on its back and it looked like an oyster shell. One of the things I love to do is re-create dishes I love that I miss being a vegan and dishes that are unexpected in a vegan diet. The inspiration was nature, and it turned into ‘oysters Rockefeller.’ ”

—TAL RONNEN, CROSSROADS (LOS ANGELES)

Dishes

Sesame Cornmeal Crusted Oyster Mushrooms with Sweet and Spicy Apple-Pepper Jam, Shaved Onion, and Radish Salad

—Millennium (San Francisco)

Oyster Mushroom Fettuccine with Kale, Seitan, and Fresh Chives

—Plum Bistro (Seattle)

Cornmeal-Crusted Oyster Mushrooms, Horseradish-Dill Aioli, Aji Amarillo Chili Sauce

—True Bistro (Somerville, MA)

 

MUSHROOMS, POM POM

Flavor: notes of crab, lobster, and/or veal

Technique: sauté

Botanical relative: truffles

butter

mushrooms, other, e.g., maitake

oil, olive

onions

parsley

pastas

pepper, black

salt, sea

sauces

stews

stock, e.g., mushroom, vegetable

tarragon

tomatoes

 

image MUSHROOMS, PORCINI (aka BOLETES or CÈPES; see also MUSHROOMS, WILD)

Season: summer–autumn

Flavor: slightly sweet; aromatic, with earthy/pungent notes of meat, nuts, and/or smoke, and a rich, meaty texture

Volume: moderate–loud (and louder when dried)

Calories: 100 per 1-ounce serving (dried)

Protein: 7 grams

Techniques: bake, braise, grill, raw, roast, sauté, simmer, stew, stuff

almonds

artichokes

asparagus

BARLEY

basil

bay leaf

bread crumbs

bruschetta

butter

carpaccio, mushroom

carrots

casseroles

chard

cheese, e.g., goat, Parmesan, provolone, ricotta, Romano

chickpeas

chives

cloves

corn

cream

crostini

dill

dumplings, e.g., bread

eggplant

eggs, e.g., frittatas, omelets

endive, Belgian

escarole

figs

French cuisine

GARLIC

grains

gravies

greens, bitter

Italian cuisine

leeks

lemon, e.g., juice

marjoram

mint

mushrooms, other, e.g., portobello

OIL, e.g., hazelnut, nut, OLIVE, porcini

onions, e.g., green, yellow

palm, hearts of

PARSLEY

PASTAS, e.g., fettuccine, gnocchi, lasagna

peanuts

peas

PEPPER, e.g., black, white

phyllo dough, whole-wheat

pilafs

pine nuts

polenta

potatoes

pumpkin

quinoa

rice

RISOTTOS

rosemary

sage

salads

salt, e.g., sea

sauces, e.g., mushroom, tomato

savory, e.g., summer

shallots

SOUPS

spinach

squash, e.g., winter

stews

stocks, e.g., mushroom, vegetable

stuffed peppers or zucchini

stuffings

tarts

tempeh

thyme

tomatoes and tomato paste

truffles, white

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, red wine, sherry, white balsamic

WINE, e.g., dry red or white, Madeira, or sherry

Flavor Affinities

porcini mushrooms + basil + garlic + olive oil + potatoes

porcini mushrooms + chard + chickpeas

porcini mushrooms + chives + lemon

porcini mushrooms + cream + potatoes

porcini mushrooms + garlic + lemon + olive oil + thyme

Porcini are the godfather of wild mushrooms. They’re big, giant, meaty, ultra-rich mushrooms that are really majestic to find when you’re out foraging in the woods.”

—ERIC TUCKER, MILLENNIUM (SAN FRANCISCO)

Dishes

Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes with Pinot Noir—Porcini Mushroom Sauce

Greens Restaurant (San Francisco)

Porcini Bruschetta, with White Beans, Garlic, Fennel, Chèvre

Natural Selection (Portland, OR)

 

image MUSHROOMS, PORTOBELLO

Flavor: rich, earthy, meaty notes and texture

Volume: moderate–loud

Nutritional profile: 69% carbs / 25% fats / 6% protein

Calories: 45 per 1-cup serving (grilled, sliced)

Protein: 2 grams

Techniques: broil, grill, marinate, roast, sauté (about 15 minutes), sear, stuff

almonds

ARUGULA

asparagus

“bacon,” i.e., made from smoked portobello mushrooms

barley, e.g., pearl

basil

beans, e.g., black, shell, white

BELL PEPPERS, e.g., green or red, esp. grilled or roasted

breadcrumbs

broccoli

bruschetta

buns, e.g., whole-grain “burger”

butter

cayenne

celery and celery leaves

chard, Swiss

CHEESE, e.g., cheddar, dry Jack, feta, goat, Gorgonzola, Gouda, manchego, MOZZARELLA, PARMESAN, provolone, ricotta, Swiss

chervil

chickpeas

chiles, e.g., chipotle, jalapeño; chili pepper flakes, chili powder

chives

cilantro

couscous, e.g., Israeli, whole-wheat

cream

crepes

dill

eggplant

eggs, e.g., omelets

endive, Belgian

escarole

fajitas

fennel

focaccia

GARLIC

ginger

gravies, e.g., mushroom

greens, e.g., bitter, salad

hazelnuts

herbs

Italian cuisine

leeks

lemon, e.g., juice

mâche

marjoram

millet

mint

mousses

mushrooms, other, e.g., cremini, porcini, shiitake, white

mustard

oil, e.g., canola, grapeseed, nut, OLIVE, truffle, walnut

ONIONS, e.g., green, red, white, yellow

orange, e.g., juice

oregano

paprika, smoked

parsley

parsnips

pasta, e.g., fettuccine, lasagna, penne

pâtés, e.g., mushroom, vegetable

pears

pepper, black

PESTO

pine nuts

pistachios

pizza

polenta

potatoes

quesadillas

rice, e.g., basmati, brown

rosemary

salads, e.g., mushroom

salt, sea

sandwiches, e.g.,French dip,” panini, wraps

sauces

scallions

sesame, e.g., oil, seeds

shallots

soups

soy sauce

SPINACH

squash, summer

squash, winter, e.g., butternut

“steaks,” mushroom

stews

stir-fries

stock, e.g., mushroom, vegetable

STUFFED MUSHROOMS

tacos

tamari

tarragon

thyme

tofu

tomatoes and tomato paste

TOMATOES, SUN-DRIED

tortillas

veggie burgers”

VINEGAR, e.g., BALSAMIC, red wine, sherry

walnuts

watercress

wine, e.g., dry white or Madeira

zucchini

Flavor Affinities

portobellos + arugula + balsamic vinegar + mozzarella + rosemary

portobellos + arugula + mustard

portobellos + arugula + red bell peppers + white beans

portobellos + balsamic vinegar + garlic + olive oil + parsley

portobellos + barley + soups + thyme

portobellos + bell peppers + eggplant + goat cheese + sandwiches

portobellos + bell beppers + pizza + zucchini

portobellos + bitter greens + potatoes

portobellos + cilantro + garlic + ginger + jalapeño + soy sauce

portobellos + garlic + olive oil + Parmesan cheese + spinach

portobellos + garlic + soy sauce

portobellos + garlic + sun-dried tomatoes

portobellos + goat cheese + potatoes

portobellos + goat cheese + spinach

portobellos + mint + zucchini

portobellos + pesto + polenta

portobellos + polenta + rosemary

portobellos + spinach + tomatoes

portobellos + vinegar + walnut oil + walnuts

Dishes

Tuscan Portobello Sandwich: Grilled Portobello, Roasted Red Peppers, and Caramelized Onions, topped with Vegan Mozzarella and Spicy Mayo

—Blossom (New York City)

“French Dip Sandwich”: Caramelized Onions, Swiss Cheese, and Portobello Mushrooms on Herbed Baguette with Roasted Garlic-Mushroom Jus and choice of Organic Wild Greens or Yam Fries

—Cafe Flora (Seattle)

Grilled Portobello Sandwich on Acme Focaccia with Grilled Peppers, Roasted Onions, Wagon Wheel, Basil Mayonnaise, and Arugula. Served with Fingerling Potatoes, Artichokes, Pickled Red Onions, Capers, and Champagne Dijon Vinaigrette

—Greens Restaurant (San Francisco)

Portobello Quesadilla: Marinated Mushrooms, Monterey Jack, Avocado, Caramelized Onion, and Poblano Cream

—Mii amo Café (Sedona, AZ)

Portabella Carpaccio, Garbanzo Tonatto, Fennel Mustard, and Crispy Capers

—Vedge (Philadelphia)

 

image MUSHROOMS, SHIITAKE—DRIED and FRESH

[shee-TAH-kay]

Season: spring; autumn

Flavor: slightly sweet/umami; aromatic, with earthy, pungent notes of fruit, garlic, pine, smoke, steak, woods, and/or yeast, and a firm, chewy (esp. cooked), meaty texture

Volume: moderate (fresh)–loud (dried)

What they are: wild mushrooms

Nutritional profile: 90% carbs / 7% protein / 3% fats

Calories: 80 per 1-cup serving (cooked)

Protein: 2 grams

Techniques—fresh: bake, braise, broil, deep-fry, grill, roast (30 minutes), sauté (10–15 minutes), simmer, smoke, steam, stir-fry

Techniques—dried: Soak in boiling water 10–15 minutes, or overnight in cold water, to reconstitute; then cook as above. Strain, and add the nutritious soaking water to sauces, soups, or stews.

Botanical relative: hen of the woods mushrooms

arame

artichoke hearts

arugula

(EAST) ASIAN CUISINES

asparagus

avocado

bamboo shoots

basil and Thai basil

bay leaf

beans, e.g., adzuki, fermented black, green

beer and ale

bell peppers, e.g., green, red

bok choy

brandy

broccoli

burritos

butter

cabbage, e.g., Chinese or napa

carrots

casseroles

cayenne

celery

chard, e.g., Swiss

cheese, e.g., feta, goat, Parmesan

chiles, e.g., ancho, and chili pepper paste

Chinese cuisine

chives

coconut milk

daikon

dashi

dumplings, e.g., Asian, potstickers

eggplant

eggs, e.g., omelets, quiches

escarole

GARLIC

GINGER

GRAINS, e.g., barley, brown rice, buckwheat, kamut, kasha, pearled barley, quinoa, rice, wild rice

gravies

greens, e.g., mizuna

hazelnuts

honey

JAPANESE CUISINE

Kaffir lime leaves

kale

kombu

Korean cuisine

leeks

lemon, e.g., juice, zest

lemongrass

lettuce, e.g., romaine

lime

macrobiotic cuisine

marjoram

milk, dairy or nondairy, e.g., soy

mirin

MISO

MUSHROOMS, OTHER, e.g., button, cremini, maitake, oyster, porcini, portobello, wild

NOODLES, ASIAN, e.g., buckwheat, ramen, soba, udon

nori rolls (i.e., vegetarian sushi)

nuts, e.g., cashews, hazelnuts, pistachios, walnuts

OIL, e.g., grapeseed, hazelnut, nut, OLIVE, peanut, sesame

ONIONS, e.g., caramelized, green, pickled, yellow

parsley

pastas, e.g., fettuccine, linguini

pâtés, mushroom

pepper, black

pizza

polenta

ponzu sauce

rice

risotto

rosemary

sage

sake

salads, e.g., mushroom

salt, e.g., kosher

sauces, e.g., vegan XO

savory

scallions

seitan

sesame, e.g., oil, sauce, seeds

shallots

shiso

SOUPS, e.g., hot-and-sour, lentil, miso, noodle, vegetable

soybeans

SOY SAUCE

spinach

spring rolls

squash, e.g., winter

sriracha sauce

stews

STIR-FRIES

STOCKS, e.g., mushroom and/or vegetable

stuffings

sugar, e.g., brown

sugar snap peas

sushi

sweet potatoes

tacos

tamari

thyme

tofu

tofu scrambles

tomatoes, sun-dried

tomato paste and tomato sauce

turnip

veggie burgers

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, brown rice, rice, white wine

wine, e.g., Madeira, red

yuzu, e.g., juice, zest

Flavor Affinities

shiitake mushrooms + Asian noodles + sesame sauce + soy sauce

shiitake mushrooms + celery + onions + soy sauce

shiitake mushrooms + fermented black beans + rice vinegar + sesame oil + sriracha + tamari

shiitake mushrooms + garlic + soy sauce

shiitake mushrooms + ginger + mirin + sake + soy sauce

shiitake mushrooms + ginger + scallions

shiitake mushrooms + ginger + sesame + soy sauce

shiitake mushrooms + lemon juice + soy sauce

shiitake mushrooms + miso + sesame seeds

shiitake mushrooms + miso + shiso + soy sauce + tofu

shiitake mushrooms + olive oil + onions + pizza + rosemary + walnuts

shiitake mushrooms + scallions + sweet potatoes

Dishes

Shiitake Salad: Marinated Shiitake Mushrooms, Julienne Carrots, Purple Beet, and Yellow Squash with Sweet Ginger Dressing

—118 Degrees (California)

Shiitake Miso Soup: Served warm with Miso, Fresh Seaweeds, Shiitakes, and Scallions

—118 Degrees (California)

Farm Vegetable Dumplings with Miso Lemongrass Broth, Ginger, Scallions, Swiss Chard, and Shiitake Mushrooms

—The Lodge at Woodloch (Hawley, PA)

Pad Thai Sauté: Roasted Shiitake Mushrooms, Edamame, Napa Cabbage, Bean Sprouts, Broccolini, Tofu, Spicy Miso Vinaigrette

—Mii amo Café (Sedona, AZ)

Shiitake Mushrooms Roasted in a Garlic Rosemary Balsamic and Red Wine Sauce with Carrot Butter Pâté and Toasted Baguette Slices

—Sage’s Cafe (Salt Lake City)

Shiitake and Tofu Lettuce Cups: Ginger, Soy, and Cashew

—True Food Kitchen (Phoenix)

 

MUSHROOMS, WHITE (see MUSHROOMS, BUTTON)

 

Dishes

Wild Mushroom and Goat Cheese Strudel with Balsamic Reduction

—The Golden Door (Escondido, CA)

Wild Mushroom and Leek Tartlet with Gruyère and Thyme

—Greens Restaurant (San Francisco)

Wild Mushroom Ravioli with Grilled Matsutake and Chanterelle Mushrooms, Savoy Spinach, Spring Onions, Green Garlic, Pine Nuts, Herb Butter, Grana Padano

—Greens Restaurant (San Francisco)

Wild Mushroom Omelet with Quinoa, Sweet Onions, Baby Spinach, and White Cheddar

—The Lodge at Woodloch (Hawley, PA)

Wild Mushroom Risotto with Winter Squash, Black Truffle Butter

—Picholine (New York City)

Chef Colin Bedford of North Carolina’s Fearrington House on Mushrooms

At the Fearrington House, we treat mushrooms very much like meat. We will take larger king oyster or maitake mushrooms and confit them whole in olive oil, or we will sous-vide them as that is another great technique to infuse flavor and to create layers of flavors. The flavors differ throughout the year. In March, we use thyme, garlic, and white wine, as the wine really brightens the flavor.

King Oysters are nice, big, fat mushrooms. We will confit them with garlic, bay leaf, and thyme. The ratio of stalk to cap is crazy—like 5 percent cap to 95 percent stalk, so we use the stalk for carpaccio, cooking the mushrooms at 85°C for one to one-and-a-half hours with lots of aromatics. Once they are cool, we slice them thin on a mandoline and lay them on the plate. With the dish, we add crosnes, which are like a really cool artichoke; sunchokes, roasted cippolini onions, and garlic chips for a crispy texture.

Maitake mushrooms are my favorite. They have a meaty quality and are so versatile. We will confit them whole. Sunchokes work really well with them, as does ginger, which gives it a warm, earthy tone—with fresh ginger adding heat, and candied ginger mellowing the flavor. I’ll also use sherry vinegar, and a bit of maple syrup—we use Mikuni Wild Harvest’s NOBLE maple syrup.

Chanterelles are another favorite. Thyme is one of my favorite pairings, as is sage; I will use one or the other. In the fall or winter, black garlic also works well with them: We will caramelize and puree the garlic, which has a kind of fermented quality that brings up sweetness, and from there we will add some Madeira and maple [syrup] for more flavor. Chanterelles are a mushroom that we don’t cook to order. We like to cook them beforehand and stew them down with aromatics, butter, and just a pinch of white wine at the end to balance the flavors.

Matsutakes call for keeping it simple, so we don’t mess around with them too much, and simply confit them. After they are cooked, we will score and then pan sear them so you get that contrasting texture.

Doubloons are smaller than shiitake mushrooms, but we treat them the same way.

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Pickling Mushrooms with Colin Bedford

Beech mushrooms are perfect for pickling, as they are essentially sponges. A cremini would be too hard; you would just get little nuggets. When pickling mushrooms, the pickling solution will depend on the season, which will influence our choice of vinegar—for example:

Autumn: madeira and sherry vinegars

Winter: port wine, red wine, and raspberry vinegars

Spring: lemon and chardonnay vinegars

Summer: white balsamic and champagne vinegars