Lake Tahoe

Why Go?

Shimmering in myriad shades of blue and green, Lake Tahoe is the USA’s second-deepest lake and, at 6255ft high, it is also one of the highest-elevation lakes in the country. Driving around the spellbinding 72-mile scenic shoreline will give you quite a workout behind the wheel. Generally, the north shore is quiet and upscale; the west shore, rugged and old-timey; the east shore, undeveloped; the south shore, busy and tacky, with aging motels and flashy casinos; and nearby Reno, the biggest little city in the region.

The horned peaks surrounding the lake, which straddles the California–Nevada state line, are year-round destinations. The sun shines on Tahoe three out of every four days. Swimming, boating, kayaking, windsurfing, stand up paddle surfing (SUP) and other water sports take over in summer, as do hiking, camping and wilderness backpacking adventures. Winter brings bundles of snow, perfect for hitting Tahoe’s top-tier ski and snowboard resorts.

When to Go

Jul & Aug Beach season; wildflowers bloom, and hiking and mountain-biking trails open.
Sep & Oct Cooler temperatures, colorful foliage and fewer tourists after Labor Day.
Dec–Mar Snow sports galore at resorts; storms bring hazardous roads.

Best Places to Eat

A Moody’s Bistro & Lounge

A Cafe Fiore

A Fire Sign Cafe

A Fat Cat

A Old Granite Street Eatery

Best Places to Sleep

A Cedar House Sport Hotel

A Hostel Tahoe

A PlumpJack Squaw Valley Inn

A Deerfield Lodge at Heavenly

A Sorensen's

Lake Tahoe Highlights

1 Surveying the shimmering expanse of Lake Tahoe from a kayak or from the sandy beach at Zephyr Cove.

2 Swooshing down the vertiginous double-black-diamond runs of Heavenly ski resort.

3 Trekking Rubicon Trail from Vikingsholm Castle on sparkling Emerald Bay to DL Bliss State Park.

4 Swimming in an outdoor lagoon or ice-skating above 8000ft atop the cable-car line in Squaw Valley.

5 Thundering down Flume Trail on a mountain bike to tranquil Spooner Lake.

6 Escaping summer crowds with an overnight backpack to alpine lakes and high-country meadows in the Desolation Wilderness.

7 Cozying up with your family around a lakefront beach fire pit or inside a comfortable cabin at Tahoe Vista on the no-fuss northern shore.

South Lake Tahoe & Stateline

Highly congested and arguably overdeveloped, South Lake Tahoe is a chockablock commercial strip bordering the lake and framed by picture-perfect alpine mountains. At the foot of the world-class Heavenly mountain resort, and buzzing from the gambling tables in the casinos just across the border in Stateline, NV, Lake Tahoe’s south shore draws visitors with a cornucopia of activities, lodging and restaurant options, especially for summer beach access and tons of powdery winter snow.

1Sights

Heavenly GondolaCABLE CAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.skiheavenly.com; Heavenly Village; adult/child 5-12yr/youth13-18yr from $45/27/37; h10am-5pm Jun-Aug, reduced off-season hours; c)

Soar to the top of the world as you ride this gondola, which sweeps you from Heavenly Village to some 2.4 miles up the mountain in just 12 minutes. From the observation deck at 9123ft, get gobsmacking panoramic views of the entire Tahoe Basin, the Desolation Wilderness and Carson Valley, then jump back on for the final, short hop to the top.

From here there's a range of activities to enjoy (climbing, zip-lining, tubing) and decent eating (Tamarack Lodge restaurant and bar), or jump on the Tamarack Express chairlift to get all the way to the mountain summit.

Tallac Historic SiteHISTORIC SITE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tahoeheritage.org; Tallac Rd; optional tour adult/child $10/5; h10am-4pm daily mid-Jun–Sep, Fri & Sat late May–mid-Jun; #)F

Sheltered by a pine grove and bordering a wide, sandy beach, this national historic site sits on the archaeologically excavated grounds of the former Tallac Resort, a swish vacation retreat for San Francisco’s high society around the turn of the 20th century. Feel free to just amble or cycle around the breezy forested grounds, today transformed into a community arts hub, where leashed dogs are allowed.

Inside the 1921 Baldwin Estate, the museum has exhibits on the history of the resort and its founder, Elias ‘Lucky’ Baldwin, who made a bundle off Nevada’s Comstock Lode. Nearby is the 1894 Pope Estate, now used for art exhibits and open for guided tours (daily except Wednesday). The boathouse of the Valhalla Estate functions as a theater venue. The 1923 Grand Hall contains an art gallery and gift shop. In summer concerts, plays and other cultural events happen here, most notably the three-decade-old Valhalla Festival of Arts, Music & Film.

The parking lot is about 3 miles north of the ‘Y’ junction of Hwys 89 and 50.

Lake Tahoe Historical Society MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-541-5458; 3058 Lake Tahoe Blvd; husually 11am-3pm Sat & Sun)F

This small but interesting museum displays artifacts from Tahoe’s pioneer past, including Washoe tribal baskets, vintage black-and-white films, hoary mining memorabilia and a model of a classic Lake Tahoe steamship. On summer Saturday afternoons, join a volunteer-led tour of the restored 1930s cabin out back.

SKIING IN TAHOE

Lake Tahoe has phenomenal skiing, with thousands of acres of the white stuff beckoning at more than a dozen resorts. Winter-sports complexes range from the giant, jet-set slopes of Squaw Valley, Heavenly and Northstar, to the no-less-enticing insider playgrounds like Sugar Bowl and Homewood. Tahoe’s simply got a hill for everybody, from kids to kamikazes. Ski season generally runs November to April, although it can start as early as October and last until the last storm whips through in May or even June. All resorts have ski schools, equipment rental and other facilities; check their websites for snow conditions, weather reports and free ski-season shuttle buses from area lodgings.

Downhill Skiing & Snowboarding

Tahoe’s downhill resorts are usually open every day from December through April, weather permitting. See Winter Sports listings for Truckee & Donner Lake, Tahoe City and South Lake Tahoe & Stateline. All of these resorts rent equipment and have places to warm up slope side and grab a quick bite or après-ski beer. Most offer group ski and snowboard lessons for adults and children (a surcharge applies,but usually no reservations are required).

Cross-Country Skiing & Snowshoeing

Tahoe’s cross-country ski resorts are usually open daily from December through March, and sometimes into April. See Winter Sports listings for Truckee & Donner Lake, Tahoe City and South Lake Tahoe & Stateline. Most rent equipment and offer lessons; reservations typically aren’t taken for either, so show up early in the morning for the best availability.

Lake Tahoe

1Top Sights

1Emerald Bay State ParkB6

1Sights

Crystal Bay CasinoC2

2DL Bliss State ParkB6

3Donner Memorial State ParkA1

4Ed Z'berg Sugar Pine Point State ParkB5

5Granite Chief WildernessA3

6Hellman-Ehrman MansionB5

7Inspiration PointB6

8Kings Beach State Recreation AreaC2

9Lake Tahoe-Nevada State ParkD3

10Mt Rose WildernessC1

11North Tahoe BeachC2

12North Tahoe Regional ParkB2

13Sand HarborD3

14Spooner LakeD4

15Tahoe MeadowsD1

16Tahoe National ForestB2

17Thunderbird LodgeD3

Vikingsholm CastleB6

2Activities, Courses & Tours

18Alpine MeadowsA3

19Baldwin BeachC6

Bayview TrailB6

20Desolation WildernessB7

21Diamond PeakD2

22Eagle Falls TrailB6

23Flume TrailD3

24Flume Trail BikesD2

25HomewoodA4

26Meeks Bay TrailB5

27Mt RoseD1

28Nevada BeachD5

29Northstar CaliforniaB1

30Northstar Mountain Bike ParkB2

31Resort at Squaw Creek Golf CourseA3

32Rubicon TrailB6

Squaw ValleyA3

Squaw Valley Adventure CenterA3

33Tahoe Cross CountryB3

34Tahoe Rim TrailB6

Tahoe Treetop Adventure ParkB3

35Tallac TrailC6

Woodwind CruisesD5

36Zephyr CoveD5

Zephyr Cove Resort & MarinaD5

37Zephyr Cove StablesD5

4Sleeping

38Cedar House Sport HotelA1

DL Bliss State Park CampgroundB6

Donner Memorial State Park CampgroundA1

39Eagle Point CampgroundB6

40General Creek CampgroundB5

41GranlibakkenB3

42Hotel Truckee-TahoeA1

43Hyatt Regency Lake TahoeD2

44Meeks Bay ResortB5

45Mt Rose CampgroundD1

Nevada Beach CampgroundD5

46PlumpJack Squaw Valley InnA3

47River Ranch LodgeA3

48Tahoe Biltmore Lodge & CasinoC2

49USFS Bayview CampgroundB6

50USFS CampgroundsA2

51USFS Kaspian CampgroundA4

USFS Meeks Bay CampgroundB5

5Eating

Austin'sD2

Cafe BiltmoreC2

52Getaway CafeC7

Le Chamois & Loft BarA3

River Ranch LodgeA3

StellaA1

6Drinking & Nightlife

53Chamber's LandingB4

Fifty Fifty Brewing CoA1

Lone Eagle GrilleD2

2Activities

Tahoe Treetop Adventure ParkADVENTURE SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-581-7563; www.tahoetreetop.com; 725 Granlibakken Rd, off Hwy 89; adult/child 5-12yr $55/45; h10am-5:30pm Sat & Sun Jan-late May, 9am-7:30pm daily late May-Aug, reduced hours Sep-Dec; c)

At the Granlibakken resort, take a 2½-hour monkey-like romp between tree platforms connected by zip lines and swinging bridges. Various courses are geared to everyone from little kids (no more than 10ft off the ground) to daredevils (two 100ft zip lines and one that's 300ft). Reserve ahead.

Winter Sports

oHeavenlySNOW SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %775-586-7000; www.skiheavenly.com; 4080 Lake Tahoe Blvd; adult/child 5-12yr/youth 13-18yr $135/79/113; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, from 8:30am Sat, Sun & holidays; c)

The ‘mother’ of all Tahoe mountains boasts the most acreage, the longest run (5.5 miles), great tree-skiing and the biggest vertical drop around. Follow the sun by skiing on the Nevada side in the morning, moving to the California side in the afternoon. Views of the lake and the high desert are heavenly indeed.

Two terrain parks won’t strand snowboarders of any skill level, with the High Roller for experts only. Stats: 28 lifts, 3500 vertical feet, 97 runs.

Sierra-at-TahoeSNOW SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-659-7453; www.sierraattahoe.com; 1111 Sierra-at-Tahoe-Rd, off Hwy 50, Twin Bridges; adult/child 5-12yr/youth 13-22yr $90/30/83; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-4pm Sat, Sun & holidays; c)

About 18 miles southwest of South Lake Tahoe, this is snowboarding central, with five raging terrain parks and a 17ft-high superpipe. A great beginners’ run meanders gently for 2.5 miles from the summit, but there are also gnarly steeps and chutes for speed demons.

KirkwoodSNOW SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %209-258-6000; www.kirkwood.com; 1501 Kirkwood Meadows Dr, off Hwy 88, Kirkwood; adult/child 5-12yr/youth 13-18yr $96/65/80; h9am-4pm)

Off-the-beaten-path Kirkwood, set in a high-elevation valley, gets great snow and holds it longer than almost any other Tahoe resort. It has stellar tree-skiing, gullies, chutes and terrain parks, and is the only Tahoe resort with backcountry runs accessible by snowcats. Novice out-of-bounds skiers should sign up in advance for backcountry safety-skills clinics.

It’s 35 miles southwest of South Lake Tahoe via Hwy 89; ski-season shuttles are available (from $15). Stats: 15 lifts, 2000 vertical feet, 72 runs.

TOP WAYS TO SKI TAHOE FOR LESS MONEY

Midweek and half-day afternoon discounts on lift tickets are usually available, but expect higher prices on weekends and holidays. Lift-ticket rates go up incrementally almost every year too. Parents should ask about the interchangeable ‘Parent Predicament’ lift tickets offered by some resorts, which let one parent ski while the other one hangs with the kids, then switch off later.

The Bay Area Ski Bus (%925-680-4386; www.bayareaskibus.com) allows you to leave the headache of driving I-80 to others. Round-trips start at $109 including lift tickets, with various add-on packages available. Pick-up locations include San Francisco and Sacramento.

In San Francisco, Sports Basement (https://shop.sportsbasement.com) sells deeply discounted lift tickets and has the best deals on multiday rental equipment because it doesn't charge for pickup or drop-off days.

Handy money-saving websites:

Ski Lake Tahoe (www.skilaketahoe.com) Portal for the seven biggest Tahoe resorts, with deals covering all.

Sliding on the Cheap (www.slidingonthecheap.com) Homegrown website listing discounts and deals on lift tickets.

Hiking

Many miles of summer hiking trails start from the top of the Heavenly Gondola, many with mesmerizing lake views. On the Nevada side of the state line, Lam Watah Nature Trail meanders for just over a mile each way across United States Forest Service (USFS) land, winding underneath pine trees and beside meadows and ponds, on its way between Hwy 50 and Nevada Beach, starting from the community park off Kahle Dr.

Several easy kid- and dog-friendly hikes begin near the USFS Taylor Creek Visitor Center off Hwy 89. The mile-long, mostly flat Rainbow Trail loops around a creekside meadow, with educational panels about ecology and wildlife along the way. On the opposite side of Hwy 89, the gentle, rolling 1-mile Moraine Trail follows the shoreline of Fallen Leaf Lake; free trailhead parking is available near campsite No 75. Up at cooler elevations, the mile-long round-trip to Angora Lakes is another popular trek with kids, especially because it ends by a sandy swimming beach and a summer snack bar selling ice-cream treats. You’ll find the trailhead on Angora Ridge Rd, off Tahoe Mountain Rd, accessed from Hwy 89.

For longer and more strenuous day hikes to alpine lakes and meadows, several major trailheads provide easy access to the evocatively named Desolation Wilderness: Echo Lakes (south of town); Glen Alpine (near Lily Lake, south of Fallen Leaf Lake), to visit a historic tourist resort and waterfall; and Tallac (opposite the entrance to Baldwin Beach). The latter two trailheads also lead to the peak of Mt Tallac (9735ft), a strenuous 10- to 12-mile day hike. Self-serve wilderness permits for day hikers only are freely available at trailheads; overnight backpacking permits are subject to quotas.

DON'T MISS

HIKING & BACKPACKING THE DESOLATION WILDERNESS

Sculpted by powerful glaciers aeons ago, this relatively compact wilderness area ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado/specialplaces/?cid=fsbdev7_019062) spreads south and west of Lake Tahoe and is the most popular in the Sierra Nevada. It’s a 100-sq-mile wonderland of polished granite peaks, deep-blue alpine lakes, glacier-carved valleys and pine forests that thin quickly at the higher elevations. In summer wildflowers nudge out from between the rocks.

All this splendor makes for some exquisite backcountry exploration. Six major trailheads provide access from the Lake Tahoe side: Glen Alpine, Tallac ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Mt Tallac Rd B trailhead), Echo Lakes (near Echo Summit on Hwy 50), Bayview ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), Eagle Falls and Meeks Bay ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ). Tallac and Eagle Falls get the most traffic, but solitude comes quickly once you’ve scampered past the day hikers.

Wilderness permits are required year-round for both day and overnight explorations. Day hikers can self-register at the trailheads, but overnight permits must be either reserved online (fee $6) at www.recreation.gov and printed at home, or picked up in person at one of the three USFS offices in South Lake Tahoe and Pollack Pines. Permits cost $5 per person for one night, $10 per person for two or more nights.

Quotas are in effect from late May through the end of September. Over half of the permits for the season may be reserved online, usually starting in late March or April; the other permits are available on a first-arrival basis on the day of entry only.

Bear-proof canisters are strongly advised in all wilderness areas (hanging your food in trees will not work – these bears are too smart!). Borrow canisters for free from the USFS offices. Bring bug repellent as the mosquitoes can be merciless. Wood fires are a no-no, but portable stoves are OK. Dogs must be leashed at all times.

Beaches & Swimming

On the California side, the nicest strands are Pope Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; per car $7), Kiva Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) and Baldwin Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; per car $7), each with picnic tables and barbecue grills; Kiva offers free parking and allows leashed dogs too. They’re all found along Emerald Bay Rd (Hwy 89), running west and east of Tallac Historic Site. Nearby, Fallen Leaf Lake, where scenes from the Hollywood flicks The Bodyguard and City of Angels were filmed, is also good for summer swims. El Dorado Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) is a free public beach in town, just off Lake Tahoe Blvd.

Many folks prefer to head over to Stateline and keep driving north 2 miles to pretty Nevada Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; per car $7), where the wind really picks up in the afternoons, or always-busy Zephyr Cove ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %775-589-4901; www.zephyrcove.com; 760 Hwy 50; per car $10; c), which has rustic resort and marina facilities along its sandy mile-long shoreline.

South Lake Tahoe

1Sights

1Heavenly GondolaG2

2Lake Tahoe Historical Society MuseumE2

3Tallac Historic SiteA1

2Activities, Courses & Tours

Action WatersportsE2

4Bijou Golf CourseE2

Camp Richardson Corral & Pack StationB2

Camp Richardson Resort MarinaA1

5Edgewood Tahoe Golf CourseG1

6El Dorado BeachE2

7Hansen's ResortF3

8HeavenlyG2

9Kayak TahoeE2

10Kiva BeachA1

Lake Tahoe BalloonsC2

Lake Tahoe CruisesF2

11Pope BeachB1

Ski Run Boat CompanyF2

12Ski Run MarinaF2

Tahoe Keys Boat & Charter RentalsC2

13Tahoe Keys MarinaC2

14Timber Cove MarinaE2

4Sleeping

15Alder InnF2

16Basecamp HotelG1

Big Pines Mountain HouseG2

17Blue Lake InnG2

18Camp Richardson ResortB2

19Campground by the LakeE2

20Deerfield Lodge at HeavenlyF2

21Fallen Leaf CampgroundA2

22Fireside LodgeB3

23Harrah'sG2

24Harvey'sG1

25Heavenly Valley LodgeF3

26Inn by the LakeE2

27LandingF1

28MontBleuG1

29Paradice InnG2

Spruce Grove CabinsF2

Timber LodgeG2

5Eating

Blue Angel CafeF2

30Burger LoungeB3

Cafe FioreF2

31Cork & MoreE3

32Ernie's Coffee ShopC4

33Freshie'sE2

34Lake Tahoe Pizza CoC4

35Latin SoulG1

36Off the HookD3

37SafewayE2

38SproutsE2

Sugar Pine BakeryF2

6Drinking & Nightlife

39Beacon Bar & GrillA1

40Boathouse on the PierE2

41Brewery at Lake TahoeF2

42MacDuffs PubE2

Opal Ultra LoungeG1

Stateline BreweryG2

3Entertainment

ImprovG1

7Shopping

43Grass Roots Natural FoodsC3

Boating & Water Sports

Ski Run Boat Company ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-544-0200; www.tahoesports.com; 900 Ski Run Blvd; parasailing $55-80), at the Ski Run Marina ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-544-9500; 900 Ski Run Blvd), and Tahoe Keys Boat & Charter Rentals ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-544-8888; www.tahoesports.com; 2435 Venice Dr; per hour $110-235), at the Tahoe Keys Marina ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-541-2155; www.tahoekeysmarina.net; 2435 Venice Dr E), both rent motorized powerboats, pontoons, sailboats and Jet Skis (rentals $110 to $235 per hour), as well as human-powered kayaks, canoes, hydro bikes, paddleboats and paddleboard sets (per hour $25 to $35). If you want to go parasailing up to 1200ft above Lake Tahoe’s waves, the Ski Run Marina branch can hook you up (rides $55 to $80).

Kayak TahoeKAYAKING, WATER SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-544-2011; www.kayaktahoe.com; 3411 Lake Tahoe Blvd; kayak single/double 1hr $25/35, 1 day $65/85, lessons & tours from $40; h9am-5pm Jun-Sep)

Rent a kayak or stand up paddleboard, take a lesson or sign up for a guided tour, including sunset cove paddles, trips to Emerald Bay and explorations of the Upper Truckee River estuary and the eastern shore. Five seasonal locations at Timber Cove Marina ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-544-2942; 3411 Lake Tahoe Blvd), Vikingsholm (Emerald Bay) and Baldwin, Pope and Nevada Beaches.

Zephyr Cove Resort & MarinaWATER SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %775-589-4901; www.zephyrcove.com; 760 Hwy 50, NV; h9am-5pm)

Rents powerboats, pedal boats, wave runners, Jet Skis, canoes, kayaks and stand up paddleboards; also offers single and tandem parasailing flights.

Camp Richardson Resort MarinaWATER SPORTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-542-6570; www.camprichardson.com; 1900 Jameson Beach Rd; hkayaks, paddleboats & paddleboards per 1hr $25)

Rents powerboats, paddleboats, water skis, kayaks and SUP gear.

Mountain Biking

For expert mountain bikers, the classic Mr Toad’s Wild Ride, with its steep downhill sections and banked turns reminiscent of a Disneyland theme-park ride, should prove sufficiently challenging. Usually open from June until October, the one-way trail along Saxon Creek starts off Hwy 89 south of town near Grass Lake and Luther Pass.

Intermediate mountain bikers should steer toward the mostly single-track Powerline Trail, which traverses ravines and creeks. You can pick up the trail off Ski Run Blvd near the Heavenly resort, from the western end of Saddle Rd. For a more leisurely outing over mostly level terrain, you can pedal around scenic Fallen Leaf Lake. Anyone with good lungs might try the Angora Lakes Trail, which is steep but technically easy and rewards you with sweeping views of Mt Tallac and Fallen Leaf Lake. It starts further east, off Angora Ridge and Tahoe Mountain Ridge Rds.

For shuttle service and mountain-bike rentals for Mr Toad’s Wild Ride, the Tahoe Rim Trail and other downhill adventures, as well as family friendly tours, talk to Wanna Ride (%775-588-5800; www.wannaridetahoe.com; h8am-4pm Tue-Sat). For mountain-biking trail conditions, race schedules, volunteer days and other special events, contact the Tahoe Area Mountain Biking Association (www.tamba.org).

Cycling

The South Lake Tahoe Bike Path is a level, leisurely ride suitable for anyone. It heads west from El Dorado Beach, eventually connecting with the Pope-Baldwin Bike Path past Camp Richardson, Tallac Historic Site and the USFS Taylor Creek Visitor Center. Visitor centers carry the excellent Lake Tahoe bike route map, available online from the Lake Tahoe Bicycle Coalition (www.tahoebike.org), which has an info-packed website for cycling enthusiasts. Anderson’s Bike Rental ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-541-0500; www.laketahoebikerental.com; 645 Emerald Bay Rd/Hwy 89; per hour $10; c) rents hybrid bikes with helmets.

Golf

Edgewood Tahoe Golf CourseGOLF

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %775-588-3566; www.edgewood-tahoe.com/golf; 100 Lake Pkwy, Stateline, NV; green fee $110-260)

Stunning lakeside scenery is a major distraction at this challenging championship 18-hole course designed by George Fazio, a favorite for celebrity golf tournaments. Tee-time reservations are required; cart and club rentals available.

Bijou Golf CourseGOLF

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-542-6097; www.cityofslt.us; 3464 Fairway Ave; green fee $18, club/cart rental $15/5; hmid-Apr–Oct)

So you don’t know your putter from your nine iron? That’s OK at this laid-back, no-reservations municipal course with views of Heavenly Mountain. Built in the 1920s, it’s got just nine holes, which you can play twice around.

Horseback Riding

Both Camp Richardson Corral & Pack Station ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-541-3113; www.camprichardsoncorral.com; Emerald Bay Rd/Hwy 89; trail rides $50-168; c) and Zephyr Cove Stables ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %775-588-5664; www.zephyrcovestable.com; Hwy 50, NV; trail rides $40-80; c), about 4 miles north of Stateline casinos, offer daily horseback rides in summer, varying from one-hour kid-friendly trips through the forest, to extended treks with meadow and lake views (reservations required).

SOUTH LAKE TAHOE FOR CHILDREN

With oodles of outdoor activities, families will never run out of mountains to explore and beaches to dig. If the kids start to get fractious though, try one of these local favorites to mix things up a little.

Major ski resorts such as Heavenly and Kirkwood around South Lake Tahoe, and Squaw Valley and Northstar California near Truckee, offer sledding hills for the kiddos, some with tubing rentals and thrilling rope tows. Smaller ski mountains including Sierra-at-Tahoe outside South Lake Tahoe, and Boreal, Soda Springs and Tahoe Donner, all near Truckee, also offer child-friendly slopes.

To avoid the crowds, bring your own sleds to designated local snow-play areas at North Tahoe Regional Park in Tahoe Vista on the north shore, or to Nevada’s Incline Village, Tahoe Meadows off the Mt Rose Hwy (Hwy 431) or Spooner Summit on Hwy 50, all along the east shore. Back in California, DIY Sno-Parks (%916-324-1222; www.parks.ca.gov; pass per day/year $5/25) are found along Hwy 89 at Blackwood Canyon, 3 miles south of Tahoe City on the west shore, and Taylor Creek, just north of Camp Richardson at South Lake Tahoe. Coming from Sacramento or the San Francisco Bay Area, two Sno-Parks are along I-80 at Yuba Gap (exit 161) and Donner Summit (exit 176 Castle Peak/Boreal Ridge Rd); their parking lots often fill by 11am on winter weekends. Buy required Sno-Park parking passes online or at local shops.

For private groomed sledding and tubing hills, swing by Hansen’s Resort ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-544-3361; www.hansensresort.com; 1360 Ski Run Blvd; per person incl rental per hour $15; h9am-5pm) in South Lake Tahoe or Adventure Mountain ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-577-4352; www.adventuremountaintahoe.com; 21200 Hwy 50; per car $20, tube/2-person sled rental per day $20/10; h10am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4:30pm Sat, Sun & holidays), south of town at Echo Summit.

TTours

Lake Tahoe BalloonsBALLOONING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-544-1221; www.laketahoeballoons.com; per person $299)

From May through October (weather permitting), you can cruise on a catamaran launched from Tahoe Keys Marina, then clamber aboard a hot-air balloon launched right from the boat’s upper deck. The lake and Sierra Nevada mountain views may take away what little breath you have left up at 10,000ft. Reservations required.

Woodwind CruisesCRUISE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %775-588-3000; www.tahoecruises.com; 760 Hwy 50, NV, Zephyr Cove Marina; 1hr cruise adult/child 2-12yr from $49/18)

Sunset champagne and happy-hour floats aboard this sailing catamaran are the perfect way to chill after a sunny afternoon lazing on the beach. Five daily departures during summer; reservations recommended.

Lake Tahoe CruisesCRUISE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %800-238-2463; www.zephyrcove.com; 900 Ski Run Blvd; adult/child from $55/20; c)

Two paddle wheelers ply Lake Tahoe’s ‘big blue’ year-round with a variety of sightseeing, drinking, dining and dancing cruises, including a narrated two-hour daytime trip to Emerald Bay. The Tahoe Queen leaves from Ski Run Marina – summer parking fee $8 – in town, while the MS Dixie II is based at Zephyr Cove Resort & Marina on the eastern shore in Nevada.

Action WatersportsBOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-544-5387; www.action-watersports.com; 3411 Lake Tahoe Blvd, Timber Cove Marina; adult/child under 13yr $69/35)

In a hurry to get to Emerald Cove? Wanna avoid those near-constant traffic jams on Hwy 89? Jump on board the Tahoe Thunder speedboat, which zips across the lake – watch out, though, you’ll get wet! Also offers parasailing rides (from $75).

SNOWSHOEING UNDER THE STARS

A crisp quiet night with a blazing glow across the lake. What could be more magical than a full-moon snowshoe tour? Reserve ahead, as ramblings at these places are very popular:

A Ed Z’Berg Sugar Pine Point State Park

A Squaw Valley

A Tahoe Donner

A Northstar California

A Kirkwood

zFestivals & Events

Valhalla Festival of Arts, Music & FilmCULTURAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-541-4975; www.valhallatahoe.com; hJun-Aug)

A summerlong cultural bonanza of music and theater held at a 1930s Nordic hall.

4Sleeping

South Lake Tahoe

South Lake Tahoe has a bazillion choices. Lodging options line Lake Tahoe Blvd (Hwy 50) between Stateline and Ski Run Blvd. Further west, closer to the intersection of Hwys 50 and 89, a string of budget motels ranges from adequate to inexcusable. For ski condos and rooms near the slopes, contact Heavenly.

Fallen Leaf CampgroundCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %info 530-544-0426, reservations 877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; 2165 Fallen Leaf Lake Rd; tent & RV sites $33-35, yurts $84; hmid-May–mid-Oct; #)

Near the north shore of stunning Fallen Leaf Lake, this is one of the biggest and most popular campgrounds on the south shore, with pay showers and approximately 200 wooded sites and six canvas-sided yurts that can sleep a family of five (bring your own sleeping bags).

Big Pines Mountain HouseMOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-541-5155; www.thebigpines.com; 4083 Cedar Ave; r $50-129, pet fee $15; aiWs#)

Choose from over 70 comfortable rooms in various sizes – some with blissful mountain views – and in summertime, stroll to the private beach nearby or take a dip in the heated pool. Gas fireplaces cozy up the king kitchenette rooms.

Camp Richardson ResortCABIN, CAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-541-1801; www.camprichardson.com; 1900 Jameson Beach Rd; tent sites from $35, RV sites with partial/full hookups from $40/45, r $95-215, cabins $125-263; W)

Removed from downtown’s strip-mall aesthetic, this sprawling family camp is a hectic place offering seasonal camping (expect marauding bears all night long!), forested cabins rented by the week in summer, and so-so beachside hotel rooms. Sports-gear and bicycle rentals are available, and there's a popular ice-cream parlor across the road. Wi-fi in lobby only.

Blue Lake InnMOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-544-6459; www.thebluelakeinn.com; 944 Friday Ave; r $89-104, pet fee $15; aWs#)

A good-value choice near the Heavenly Gondola, these ample motel rooms have the core amenities: microwave, refrigerator, coffeemaker and flat-screen TV, plus a hot tub and outdoor pool.

Campground by the LakeCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-542-6096; www.cityofslt.us; 1150 Rufus Allen Blvd; tent & RV sites with/without hookups from $40/29, cabins $49-80; hApr-Oct; W#)

Highway noise can be an around-the-clock irritant, though proximity to the city pool and ice rink make this wooded in-town campground with an RV dump station a decent choice. Basic sleeping-platform cabins are available between Memorial Day (late May) and Labor Day (early September).

oSorensen'sCHALET$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-423-9949; www.sorensensresort.com; 14255 Hwy 88; r $135-195)

A truly delightful option in the Hope Valley, with snug pine cottages and cabins, decked out with fairy lights and hammocks. There's a wealth of activities, including skiing, fishing and hiking. Magical in the snow, but just as lovely in summer. Bird-watching and stargazing events are held. The on-site cafe serves seasonal fish, steaks and salads.

Deerfield Lodge at HeavenlyBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-544-3337; www.tahoedeerfieldlodge.com; 1200 Ski Run Blvd; r/ste from $179/229, pet fee $25; aW)

A small boutique hotel close to Heavenly ski resort, Deerfield has a dozen intimate rooms and spacious suites that each have a patio or balcony facing the green courtyard, along with a whirlpool tub, flickering gas fireplace and amusing coat racks crafted from skis and snowboards.

There's complimentary wine in the lobby, s'mores to be made over the fire pit, and barbecue grills appear in summer.

Alder InnMOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-544-4485; www.alderinn.com; 1072 Ski Run Blvd; r $89-149; pnWs)

Even better than staying at your best friend’s house by the lake, this hospitable inn on the Heavenly ski-shuttle route charms with color schemes that really pop, pillow-top mattresses, organic bath goodies, mini-refrigerators, microwaves and flat-screen TVs. Dip your toes in the kidney-shaped pool in summer.

Fireside LodgeINN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-544-5515; www.tahoefiresidelodge.com; 515 Emerald Bay Rd/Hwy 89; d $149-219, pet fee $25; W#)

This woodsy cabin B&B wholeheartedly welcomes families, with free bikes, kayaks and snowshoes to borrow and evening s’mores and wine and cheese. Kitchenette rooms and suites have river-rock gas fireplaces, cozy patchwork quilts and pioneer-themed touches like wagon wheels or vintage skis.

Heavenly Valley LodgeB&B$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-564-1500; www.heavenlyvalleylodge.com; 1261 Ski Run Blvd; d $145-255, pet fee $25; W#)

Located along the Heavenly shuttle route, this family-run place perfects the balance of old Tahoe – all-fireplace rooms of knotty pine and river rock – and great amenities, like DVD players and a huge movie library, a fire-pit patio and afternoon happy hour. Some kitchenette units.

Basecamp HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-208-0180; www.basecamphotels.com; 4143 Cedar Ave; d $109-229, 8-person bunk room $209-299, pet fee $40; W#)S

Recycled wood, original nature-themed canvases and artsy artifacts gussy up this stylish former motel. Lucky couples can rough it in the 'Great Indoors' room with a tented bed and faux campfire, and families can overnight in spacious bunk-bed rooms. A rooftop hot tub, beer and wine bar, and communal dinner nights sweeten the deal.

Timber LodgeHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-542-6600; www.marriott.com; 4100 Lake Tahoe Blvd; r $150-230, ste from $230; aiWs)

Don’t let the Marriott chain-gang brand put you off this modern ski lodge with an enviable position, where you can watch the Heavenly Gondola whoosh by outside your window. Cookie-cutter hotel rooms have kitchenettes, while apartment-style ‘vacation villa’ suites come with full kitchens, gas fireplaces and deep soaking tubs for après-ski warm-ups.

Paradice InnMOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-544-6800; www.paradicemoteltahoe.com; 953 Park Ave; r $150-220; aW)

Harried travelers will appreciate the fabulous hospitality (turndown service!) at this small two-story motel. Step outside your minimalist room bordered by flower baskets, then stroll across the street to the Heavenly Gondola. Families should ask about the two-bedroom suites.

Spruce Grove CabinsCABIN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-544-0549; www.sprucegrovetahoe.com; 3599-3605 Spruce Ave; 4-/6-person cabins $169/215, cleaning fee $30, refundable pet deposit $100; W#)

Away from the Heavenly hubbub, these tidy, private cabins are fenced off on a quiet residential street. The vintage look of the kitchen-equipped cabins, from knotty pine walls to the stone-bordered gas fireplaces, will make you feel like you’re staying lakeside. Let your dogs cavort in the yard while you swing in the hammock or soak in outdoor hot tubs.

Inn by the LakeHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-542-0330; www.innbythelake.com; 3300 Lake Tahoe Blvd; r $180-300, pet fee $20; aiWs#)

Rooms here are rather nondescript, although a bilevel outdoor hot tub, spa suites with kitchens, and bicycles and snowshoes to borrow are nifty. Rooms out back are cheaper and quieter, but then you’ll miss the lake views.

LandingHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %855-700-5263; www.thelandingtahoe.com; 4104 Lakeshore Blvd; d/ste from $319/619, pet fee $100; aiWs#)

South Lake's newest and most luxurious lakeside resort dazzles with an in-house spa, marble bathrooms with toilet night lights and heated seats, Keurig coffeemakers, a private beach and the swank Jimmy's restaurant. Each room has a fireplace seating arrangement, and other perks include a complimentary town shuttle, a year-round outdoor pool and nightly wine tasting.

Stateline, NV

At Nevada’s high-rise casinos, prices rise and fall like a gambler's luck. In winter ask about ski-and-stay packages.

Nevada Beach CampgroundCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %775-588-5562, reservations 877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; off Hwy 50, NV; tent & RV sites $32-38; hmid-May–mid-Oct; #)

Bed down on a carpet of pine needles at this tidy lakeside campground, about 3 miles north of Stateline, where 48 sites are nestled amid pines. Leashed dogs are allowed at campsites, but not the beach.

Harrah’sCASINO HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %775-588-6611; https://caesars.com/harrahs-tahoe; 15 Hwy 50, Stateline, NV; r $85-369; aiWs)

Clad in an oddly tasteful forest-green facade, this buzzing casino hotel is Stateline’s top contender. Let yourself be swallowed up by even standard ‘luxury’ rooms, which each have two bathrooms with telephones, or spring for a luxury suite with panoramic lake-vista windows. For more eye-popping views, snag a window table at one of Harrah’s upper-floor restaurants.

MontBleuCASINO HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %775-588-3515; www.montbleuresort.com; 55 Hwy 50, Stateline, NV; r $70-210, ste from $240; aiWs)

The public areas may sport ubercool modern boutique decor, but hallways are seriously dim. Remodeled rooms have fluffy duvets and art-deco-esque accents, and some of the marble-accented bathrooms sport hedonistic circular tubs. Rooms above the 5th floor are best, and those in the premiere category have lake views. Unwind in the lavish indoor-pool lagoon, accented by a rockscape and mini waterfalls.

Harvey’sCASINO HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %775-588-2411; www.harveystahoe.com; 18 Hwy 50; r $80-229, pet fee $75; aiWs#)

Harvey’s was South Lake Tahoe’s first casino, and with 740 rooms, is also its biggest. Mountain Tower rooms have fancy marble bathrooms and oodles of space, but renovated Lake Tower rooms are more chic and design-savvy. The heated outdoor pool is open year-round, for beach and snow bunnies alike. Wi-fi costs $11 daily.

5Eating

For late-night cravings, each of the big casinos in Stateline has a 24-hour coffee shop for hangover-helper and night-owl breakfasts. If you’re just looking for filling pub grub or après-ski appetizers and cocktails, most bars and cafes also serve just-OK food, some with waterfront views and live music too.

SproutsVEGETARIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sproutscafetahoe.com; 3123 Harrison Ave; mains $7-10; h8am-9pm; vc)

Cheerful chatter greets you at this energetic, mostly organic cafe that gets extra kudos for its smoothies. A healthy menu will have you noshing happily on satisfying soups, rice bowls, sandwiches, burrito wraps, tempeh burgers and fresh salads.

Sugar Pine BakeryBAKERY$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://sugarpinecakery.com; 3564 Lake Tahoe Blvd; pastries $1-5; h8am-5pm Tue-Sat, to 4pm Sun)

Organic crunchy baguettes, ooey-gooey cinnamon rolls, fruit tarts and choco-chunk cookies.

Cork & MoreDELI$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thecorkandmore.com; 1032 Al Tahoe Blvd; sandwiches $5-10; h10am-7pm)

Specialty foods, gourmet deli (sandwiches, soups, salads) and picnic baskets to go.

Ernie’s Coffee ShopDINER$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-541-2161; http://erniescoffeeshop.com; 1207 Hwy 50; mains $8-14; h6am-2pm; c)

A sun-filled local institution, Ernie’s dishes out filling three-egg omelets, hearty biscuits with gravy, fruity and nutty waffles and bottomless cups of locally roasted coffee. Breakfast is served all day.

Burger LoungeFAST FOOD$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-542-2010; 717 Emerald Bay Rd; dishes $4-10; h10am-8pm Jun-Sep, 11am-7pm Thu-Mon Oct-May; c)

You can’t miss that giant beer mug standing outside a shingled cabin. Step inside for the south shore’s tastiest burgers, including the crazy ‘Jiffy burger’ (with peanut butter and cheddar cheese), the zingy pesto fries or the knockout ice-cream shakes.

oCafe FioreITALIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-541-2908; www.cafefiore.com; 1169 Ski Run Blvd; mains $18-34; h5:30-9pm)

Serving upscale Italian without pretension, this tiny romantic eatery pairs succulent pasta, seafood and meats with an award-winning 300-vintage wine list. Swoon over the veal scaloppine, homemade white-chocolate ice cream and near-perfect garlic bread. With only seven tables (a baker’s dozen in summer when the candlelit outdoor patio opens), reservations are essential.

Freshie’sFUSION$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-542-3630; www.freshiestahoe.com; 3330 Lake Tahoe Blvd; mains $14-28; h11:30am-9pm; v)

From vegans to seafood-lovers, everybody should be able to find a favorite on the extensive menu at this Hawaiian fusion joint with sunset upper-deck views. Most of the produce is local and organic, and the blackened fish tacos are South Lake Tahoe’s best. Check the webcam to see if there's a wait.

Off the HookSUSHI$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.offthehooksushi.com; 2660 Lake Tahoe Blvd; mains $14-23; h5-10pm)

Sushi, so far from the ocean? Yup. Locals keep on coming back to this dynamite little sushi shack, where you can feast on bento boxes and nigiri (oblong-shaped sushi) combos, or big steaming bowls of floury udon noodles and pan-fried halibut steaks off the Japanese, Hawaiian and Californian menu.

Latin SoulLATIN AMERICAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %775-588-7777; www.lakesideinn.com; 168 Hwy 50, Stateline, NV; mains $9-28; h8am-11pm)

For something completely different, steal away to this little casino kitchen with a big, bold menu of spicy south-of-the-border flavors: Argentinean churrasco-grilled steak, Veracruz shrimp ceviche, goat bírria (stew) and outrageously mixed mojitos.

Blue Angel CafeCALIFORNIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-544-6544; www.theblueangelcafe.com; 1132 Ski Run Blvd; lunch $11-16, dinner $12-25; h11am-9pm; Wvc#)

Inside a cute wooden house on the way uphill to ski at Heavenly, this modern international-inspired kitchen churns out seafood, club sandwiches, elaborate salads, pastas and flank steaks to stuff your belly. Turn up for happy hour or the rotating lunch and dinner specials.

Getaway CafeAMERICAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.getawaycafe.com; 3140 Hwy 50, Meyers; mains breakfast & lunch $8-13, dinner $10-19; h11am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, 8:30am-10pm Sun; c)

On the outskirts of town, just south of the agriculture inspection checkpoint, this place really lives up to its name; avoid the weekend crowds here. Friendly waitstaff sling heaped-up buffalo chicken salads, barbecue burgers, chiles rellenos, coconut-encrusted French toast and more.

Lake Tahoe Pizza CoPIZZA$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-544-1919; www.laketahoepizzaco.com; 1168 Emerald Bay Rd/Hwy 89; pizzas $11-23; h4-9:30pm; c)

Since the '70s, this classic pizza parlor has been hand rolling its housemade dough (cornmeal or whole wheat, anyone?), then piling the pizzas with crafty combos such as the meaty ‘Barnyard Massacre’ or vegan ‘Green Giant.’

Self-Catering

Grass Roots Natural FoodsFOOD & DRINKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://grassrootstahoe.com; 2030 Dunlap Dr; h9am-8pm)S

This store sells a wealth of organic produce, lifestyle products and grocery goods, as well as sandwiches and fresh pizzas.

SafewaySUPERMARKET$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.safeway.com; 1020 Johnson Blvd; h24hr)

Standard supermarket fare, with an in-house deli and bakery.

6Drinking & Entertainment

The siren song of blackjack and slot machines calls the masses over to Stateline, NV. Published on Thursdays, the free alt-weekly newspaper Reno News & Review (www.newsreview.com/reno) has comprehensive Stateline entertainment and events listings. For what’s going on around South Lake Tahoe, pick up a copy of the free weekly Lake Tahoe Action, published by the Tahoe Daily Tribune (www.tahoedailytribune.com).

Beacon Bar & GrillBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.camprichardson.com; 1900 Jameson Beach Rd, Camp Richardson Resort; h11am-10pm)

Imagine all of Lake Tahoe is your very own front yard when you and your buddies sprawl across this big wraparound wooden deck. If you want to get schnockered, order the signature Rum Runner cocktail. Bands rock here in summer.

Boathouse on the PierBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 3411 Lake Tahoe Blvd; h11am-9pm, extended hours Jun-Sep)

On the lake behind the Beach Retreat complex, this upstairs and upscale restaurant at the Timber Cove marina is the perfect spot for sunset cocktails, with outdoor tables to feel the summer breeze.

MacDuffs PubPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.macduffspub.com; 1041 Fremont Ave; h11:30am-9:30pm)

With excellent beers rotating on tap, a dartboard on the wall, and fish-and-chips and shepherd's pie (as well as gourmet burgers and wood-fired pizzas) on the menu, this dark and bustling gastropub wouldn’t look out of place in Edinburgh. Sports fans and beer drinkers, step right up.

Brewery at Lake TahoeBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.brewerylaketahoe.com; 3542 Lake Tahoe Blvd; h11am-10:30pm)

This crazy-popular brewpub pumps its signature Bad Ass Ale into grateful local patrons, who may sniff at bright-eyed out-of-towners. The barbecue is dynamite and a roadside patio opens in summer. Don’t leave without a bumper sticker!

Opal Ultra LoungeCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %775-586-2000; www.montbleuresort.com; 55 Hwy 50, MontBleu, Stateline, NV; cover free-$10; h10pm-4am Wed-Sat)

With DJ booths and go-go dancers, this Top 40 and electro dance club draws a young party crowd that enjoys getting their bodies painted in-house. Ladies may get in free before midnight. On summer Sunday nights, hit up the casino’s poolside DJ parties. Dress to impress.

Stateline BreweryBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.statelinebrewery.com; 4118 Lake Tahoe Blvd; h11am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10:30pm Fri & Sat)

Seat yourself by the shiny industrial brewing vats at this subterranean eating and drinking spot. German- and American-style ales taste mighty good after a day of sunning yourself on the lakeshore or skiing Heavenly (the gondola swings nearby).

ImprovCOMEDY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.caesars.com/harveys-tahoe; 18 Hwy 50, Stateline, NV; tickets $25-30; husually 9pm Wed, Fri & Sun, 8:30pm & 10:30pm Sat)

Catch up-and-coming stand-up comedians doing their funny shtick at the intimate cabaret theater inside Harvey’s old-school casino.

8Information

Barton Memorial HospitalMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-541-3420; www.bartonhealth.org; 2170 South Ave; h24hr)

Around-the-clock emergency room. Barton’s urgent-care clinic is inside the Stateline Medical Center at 155 Hwy 50, Stateline, NV.

Explore TahoeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-542-4637; www.cityofslt.us; 4114 Lake Tahoe Blvd, Heavenly Village Transit Center; h9am-5pm)

Find information on transport and recreation at Heavenly.

Lake Tahoe Visitors AuthorityTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-288-2463; www.tahoesouth.com; 169 Hwy 50, Stateline, NV; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)

A full range of tourist information.

South Lake Tahoe LibraryINTERNET

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-573-3185; www.eldoradolibrary.org/tahoe.htm; 1000 Rufus Allen Blvd; h10am-8pm Tue & Wed, to 5pm Thu-Sat; W)

First-come, first-served free internet terminals.

Tahoe Urgent CareMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-553-4319; www.tahoeurgentcare.com; 2130 Lake Tahoe Blvd; h8am-6pm)

Walk-in medical clinic for nonemergencies.

USDA Lake Tahoe Basin Management UnitTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-543-2600; www.fs.usda.gov/ltbmu; 35 College Dr; h8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri)

Find out about camping and outdoor options, plus acquire permits for wilderness trips.

USFS Taylor Creek Visitor CenterTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-543-2674; www.fs.usda.gov/ltbmu; Visitor Center Rd, off Hwy 89; h8am-5pm late May-Sep, to 4pm Oct)

Outdoor information, wilderness permits and daily ranger-led walks and talks during July and August.

NAVIGATING SOUTH TAHOE TRAFFIC

South Lake Tahoe’s main east–west thoroughfare is a 5-mile stretch of Hwy 50 called Lake Tahoe Blvd. Most hotels and businesses hover around the California–Nevada state line and Heavenly Village. Casinos are located in Stateline, which is officially a separate city.

West of town, Hwy 50 runs into Hwy 89 at the ‘Y’ junction. Heavy snowfall sometimes closes Hwy 89 north of the Tallac Historic Site. The section of Hwy 89 between South Lake Tahoe and Emerald Bay is also known as Emerald Bay Rd.

Traffic all along Hwy 50 between the ‘Y’ junction and Heavenly Village gets jammed around lunchtime and again by 5pm Monday to Friday in both summer and winter, but Sunday afternoons, when skiers head back down the mountain, are the worst.

An alternate, less crowded route through town is Pioneer Trail, which branches east off the Hwy 89/50 junction (south of the ‘Y’) and reconnects with Hwy 50 at Stateline.

8Getting There & Away

From Reno-Tahoe International Airport, South Tahoe Airporter (%775-325-8944; www.southtahoeexpress.com; adult/child 4-12yr $30/17) operates several daily shuttle buses to Stateline casinos; the journey takes from 75 minutes up to two hours.

Amtrak (%800-872-7245; www.amtrak.com) has a daily Thruway bus service between Sacramento and South Lake Tahoe ($34, 2½ hours), stopping at the South Y Transit Center.

8Getting Around

South Lake Tahoe’s main transportation hubs are the South Y Transit Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; 1000 Emerald Bay Rd/Hwy 89), just south of the ‘Y’ intersection of Hwys 50 and 89; and the more central Stateline Transit Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; 4114 Lake Tahoe Blvd).

BlueGO (%530-541-7149; www.tahoetransportation.org/transit; single/day pass $2/5) local buses operate year-round from 6am to 11pm daily, stopping all along Hwy 50 between the two transit centers.

On summer weekends, BlueGO's Emerald Bay Trolley (%531-541-7149; www.tahoetransportation.org; fare $2; c) heads north from the South Y Transit Center to the Vikingsholm and Eagle Falls parking lot at Emerald Bay, but confirm the schedule as it changes from year to year. During winter ski season, BlueGO provides free and frequent shuttle service from Stateline and South Lake Tahoe to all Heavenly base operations every 30 minutes from stops along Hwy 50, Ski Run Blvd and Pioneer Trail.

Lake Tahoe Western Shore

Lake Tahoe’s densely forested western shore, between Emerald Bay and Tahoe City, is idyllic. Hwy 89 sinuously wends past gorgeous state parks with swimming beaches, hiking trails, pine-shaded campgrounds and historic mansions. Several trailheads also access the rugged splendor of the Desolation Wilderness.

All campgrounds and many businesses shut down between November and May. Hwy 89 often closes after snowfall for plowing or due to imminent avalanche danger. Once you drive its tortuous slopeside curves, you’ll understand why. The further south you are, the more of a roller coaster it is, no matter the season – so grip that steering wheel!

Emerald Bay State Park

Sheer granite cliffs and a jagged shoreline hem in glacier-carved Emerald Bay ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-541-6498; www.parks.ca.gov), a teardrop cove that will have you digging for your camera. Its most captivating aspect is the water, which changes from cloverleaf green to light jade depending on the angle of the sun.

1Sights

You’ll spy panoramic pullouts all along Hwy 89, including at Inspiration Point ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), opposite USFS Bayview Campground. Just south, the road shoulder evaporates on both sides of a steep drop-off, revealing a postcard-perfect view of Emerald Bay to the north and Cascade Lake to the south.

Fannette Island ( GOOGLE MAP ), an uninhabited granite speck, is Lake Tahoe’s only island. It holds the vandalized remains of a tiny 1920s teahouse belonging to heiress Lora Knight, who would occasionally motorboat guests to the island from Vikingsholm Castle ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://vikingsholm.com; tour adult/child 7-17yr $10/8; h10:30am-3:30pm or 4pm late May–Sep; pc), her Scandinavian-style mansion on the bay. The focal point of the state park, Vikingsholm Castle is a rare example of ancient Scandinavian-style architecture. Completed in 1929, it has trippy design elements aplenty, including sod-covered roofs that sprout wildflowers in late spring. The mansion is reached by a steep 1-mile trail, which also leads to a visitor center.

DON'T MISS

TAHOE RIM TRAIL

The 165-mile Tahoe Rim Trail ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tahoerimtrail.org) treks the lofty ridges of the Lake Tahoe Basin. Day hikers, equestrians and – in some sections – mountain bikers are rewarded by high-altitude views of the lake and Sierra Nevada peaks while tracing the footsteps of early pioneers, Basque shepherds and Washoe tribespeople.

2Activities

Hiking

Vikingsholm Castle is the southern terminus of the famous Rubicon Trail ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ).

Two popular trailheads lead into the Desolation Wilderness. From the Eagle Falls parking lot ($5), the Eagle Falls Trail ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) travels one steep mile to Eagle Lake, crossing by Eagle Falls along the way. This scenic short hike often gets choked with visitors, but crowds disappear quickly as the trail continues up to the Tahoe Rim Trail and Velma, Dicks and Fontanillis Lakes (up to 10 miles round-trip). From the back of USFS Bayview Campground, it’s a steep 1-mile climb to glacial Granite Lake or a moderate 1.5-mile round-trip to Cascade Falls, which rushes with snowmelt in early summer.

Boating

Fannette Island is accessible by boat, except during Canada goose nesting season (typically February to mid-June). Rent boats at Meeks Bay or South Lake Tahoe; from the latter, you can also catch narrated bay cruises or speedboat tours.

Scuba Diving

Divers prepared for chilly high-altitude plunges can explore sunken barges, a submerged rockslide and artifacts at a historic dumping ground at the unique Underwater State Parks of Emerald Bay and DL Bliss State Park. Reno-based Sierra Diving Center (www.sierradive.com) and Adventure Scuba Center (www.renoscuba.com) offer classes and trips.

4Sleeping

Eagle Point CampgroundCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-525-7277, reservations 800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica.com; Hwy 89; tent & RV sites $38; hmid-Jun–early Sep)

With over 90 sites perched on the tip of Eagle Point, this state-park campground provides flush toilets, hot pay showers, beach access and bay views. Another 20 scattered sites are reserved for boat-in campers.

USFS Bayview CampgroundCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hwy 89; tent & RV sites $15; hJun-Sep; #)

This rustic, nay, primitive forest-service campground has 13 no-reservation sites and vault toilets, but its potable water supplies are often exhausted sometime in July. It’s opposite Inspiration Point.

DL Bliss State Park

DL Bliss State Park ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-525-7277; www.parks.ca.gov; per car $10; hlate May–Sep; pc) has the western shore's nicest beaches at Lester Beach and Calawee Cove. A short nature trail leads to the Balancing Rock, a giant chunk of granite perched on a rocky pedestal. Pick up information from the visitor center by the park entrance.

Near Calawee Cove is the northern terminus of the scenic one-way Rubicon Trail. The park’s campground ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica.com; tent & RV sites $35-45, hike-and-bike sites $7; hmid-May–Sep; #) has 145 sites, including some coveted spots near the beach, along with flush toilets, hot pay showers, picnic tables, fire rings and an RV dump station.

The small visitor parking lot at Calawee Cove usually fills up by 10am, in which case it’s a 2-mile walk from the park entrance to the beach. Alternatively, ask park staff at the entrance station about closer access points to Rubicon Trail.

Meeks Bay

With a wide sweep of shoreline, sleek and shallow Meeks Bay ( GOOGLE MAP ) has warm water by Tahoe standards and is fringed by a beautiful, but busy, sandy beach. West of the highway, north of the fire station, is a trailhead for the Desolation Wilderness.

A mostly level, shaded path parallels Meeks Creek before heading steeply uphill through the forest to Lake Genevieve (9 miles round-trip), Crag Lake (10 miles round-trip) and other backcountry ponds, all surrounded by scenic Sierra peaks.

4Sleeping & Eating

USFS Meeks Bay CampgroundCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-525-4733, reservations 877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; tent & RV sites $27-29; hmid-May–mid-Oct)

This developed campground offers 36 reservable sites along the beach, along with flush toilets, picnic tables and fire rings. For pay showers, head to Meeks Bay Resort next door.

Meeks Bay ResortCABIN, CAMPGROUND$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-525-6946; www.meeksbayresort.com; 7941 Emerald Bay Rd/Hwy 89; tent/RV sites with full hookups $30/50, cabins $125-400; hMay-Oct)

The Washoe tribe offers various lodging options (cabins require minimum stays) plus kayak, canoe and paddleboat rentals. If you’re hungry, swing by the waterfront grill or small market, which stocks limited groceries and camping, fishing and beach gear, as well as Native American crafts and cultural books.

Ed Z’berg Sugar Pine Point State Park

Ed Z’berg Sugar Pine Point State Park ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-525-7982; www.parks.ca.gov; per car $10) occupies a promontory blanketed by a fragrant mix of pine, juniper, aspen and fir. It has a swimming beach, hiking trails and abundant fishing in General Creek. A paved bike path travels north to Tahoe City and Squaw Valley. In winter, 12 miles of groomed cross-country trails await inside the park; book ahead for ranger-guided full-moon snowshoe tours. In summer the park offers kayak and hiking tours through the Sierra State Parks Foundation (www.sierrastateparks.org).

Historic sights include the modest 1872 cabin of William ‘General’ Phipps, an early Tahoe settler, and the considerably grander 1903 Queen Anne–style Hellman-Ehrman Mansion ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; tours adult/youth 7-17yr $10/8; h10:30am-3:30pm mid-Jun–Sep).

The park’s secluded General Creek Campground ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %800-444-7275; www.reserveamerica.com; tent & RV sites $25-35; hlate May–mid-Sep) has 120 fairly spacious, pine-shaded sites, plus flush toilets and hot pay showers; a dozen sites stay open year-round (but without showers).

Tahoma

A blink-and-you’ll-miss-it lakeside outpost, Tahoma has a post office and a handful of places to stay and eat. Within striking distance of Tahoe City, Tahoma offers a more secluded base for outdoor enthusiasts.

If you don't want to camp, the best option is Tahoma Meadows B&B Cottages ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-525-1553; www.tahomameadows.com; 6821 W Lake Blvd; cottages $119-239, pet fee $20; pnW#), set in a pine grove.

You can booze all day long at Chamber's Landing ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-525-9190; 6400 W Lake Blvd; hnoon-8pm Jun-Sep) if you so desire.

Homewood

This quiet and very alpine-looking resort hamlet ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %530-525-2992; www.skihomewood.com; 5145 Westlake Blvd, off Hwy 89; adult/child 5-12yr/youth 13-19yr $83/35/65; h9am-4pm; c) is popular with summertime boaters and, in winter, skiers and snowboarders. West Shore Sports ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-525-9920; www.westshoresports.com; 5395 W Lake Blvd; h8am-5pm) rents out all the winter and summer gear you'll need.

4Sleeping & Eating

USFS Kaspian CampgroundCAMPGROUND$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; tent sites $20; hmid-May–mid-Oct)

The closest campground is this nine-site, tent-only spot set among ponderosa and fir trees; amenities include flush toilets, picnic tables and fire rings.

West Shore InnINN$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-525-5200; www.westshorecafe.com; 5160 W Lake Blvd; r/ste from $199/349; aW)

Oriental rugs and arts-and-crafts decor give this luxurious six-room inn a classic, aged ambience, and the lake’s so close you feel like you could dive in. It’s an upscale mountain lodge where crisp, modern suites feel decadent, and each has a fireplace and lake-view balcony. Rates include complimentary use of bicycles, kayaks and stand up paddleboards.

West Shore CaféCALIFORNIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-525-5200; www.westshorecafe.com; 5160 W Lake Blvd; mains $12-33; h11am-9:30pm mid-Jun–Sep, 5-9:30pm Oct–mid-Jun)

At the West Shore Inn’s cozy destination restaurant, chef Mike Davis whips up worthy meals using fresh produce and ranched meats, from juicy burgers to Arctic char with spaghetti squash and hedgehog mushrooms. Dinner reservations recommended.

Sunnyside

Sunnyside is a lakeshore hamlet that may be just a dot on the map, but it has a couple of detour-worthy restaurants. To work off all that dang-good eating, rent a bicycle from an outpost of West Shore Sports ( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-583-9920; www.westshoresports.com; 1785 W Lake Blvd), where you can get the scoop on all sorts of local outdoor information. You can pedal all the way north to Tahoe City along the paved bike path, or rent a stand up paddling set and hit the popular local beaches.

4Sleeping & Eating

Sunnyside LodgeINN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-583-7200; www.sunnysidetahoe.com; 1850 W Lake Blvd; d $150-380, pet fee $35; W#)

This recently upgraded lodge features modern rooms with new bathrooms, pillow-top mattresses and flat-screen TVs, afternoon tea and cookies, and a guests-only sitting room overlooking the lake. The less expensive 'garden view' rooms lack good lake views. Note that there's lots of activity from the restaurant, and boat dock and marina next door.

oFire Sign CafeAMERICAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.firesigncafe.com; 1785 W Lake Blvd; mains $7-13; h7am-3pm; vc)

For breakfast, everyone heads to the friendly Fire Sign for down-home omelets, blueberry pancakes, eggs Benedict with smoked salmon, fresh made-from-scratch pastries and other carbo-loading bombs, plus organic coffee. In summer, hit the outdoor patio. Lines are usually very long, so get here early.

SpoonAMERICAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-581-5400; www.spoontakeout.com; 1785 W Lake Blvd; mains $9.50-15; h3-9pm, closed Tue & Wed Oct-May; c)

Call ahead for takeout, or squeeze yourselves into the cozy upstairs dining room at this little slat-sided cabin by the side of the highway. Barbecue tri-tip beef sandwiches, roasted veggies, soups, baked pastas and chicken enchiladas are the comfort-food staples, with brownies and ice cream for dessert.

Sunnyside RestaurantCALIFORNIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %530-583-7200; www.sunnysidetahoe.com; 1850 W Lake Blvd; mains lunch $10-13, dinner $16-35)

Classic and innovative contemporary takes on steak and seafood – think porterhouse pork with cherry chutney or roasted chicken with braised fennel – pervade this lakeside dining room. In summer you’ll probably have more fun doing lunch – or drinks with the signature zucchini sticks and a piece of hula pie – on the huge lakefront deck.

8Getting There & Around

Tahoe Area Rapid Transit (TART; GOOGLE MAP ; %530-550-1212; www.laketahoetransit.com; 10183 Truckee Airport Rd; single/day pass $2/4) buses can take you to and from Sunnyside.