These are the dessert recipes I make when I have company or plan a family celebration. They are indeed a bit more special, a bit more showy, and fun.
The epitome of elegance, my pear charlotte will elicit gasps of delight with each creamy bite. For a quick yet stunning rendition of apple pie, try making Pastis Gascon. There’s also a recipe for an impressive Pavlova topped with berries and whipped cream, one for a glamorous multi-layer almond tart, and one for a rum-soaked Baba au Rhum large enough to feed a crowd. The White Chocolate Crèmes Brûlées with Salty Pistachios are smile-inducing individual servings, while the puffy classic Chocolate Soufflé can star after a romantic dinner for two. And finally, there is a dessert I created when I lived in France and continue to make, inspired by the gelées the French make during the summer. Mine is all chocolate, formed into a glossy modernist square then topped with a mountain of berries and whipped cream.
Pavlova with Mixed Berries
Pavlova aux Fruits Rouges Quicker | Serves 4 to 6
One evening in Provence we visited a restaurant where we sat outside to dine at long wooden tables set under the trees. Our dessert was an amazing white and pink Pavlova, a crisp-on-the-outside and creamy-on-the-inside ivory meringue shell filled with raspberry purée mixed into whipped cream and topped with more raspberries. Although Pavlova is a dessert from New Zealand, it is a popular dessert for French families to make to showcase seasonal fresh fruit. I also love it, and it now makes a regular appearance on my summer table.
Special Equipment 1 baking sheet; parchment paper; electric stand mixer with whisk attachment
Pavlova
8 large egg whites, room temperature
2 cups superfine sugar
2 level tablespoons cornstarch, sifted
2 teaspoons white vinegar
Whipped Cream
1-1/2 cups heavy whipping cream, chilled
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
6 tablespoons confectioner’s sugar
To serve
Mixed berries
Pavlova
Line the baking sheet with parchment paper. Draw an 8-inch circle then turn the parchment paper over. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees F.
Make sure the bowl of your stand mixer and its whisk are very clean and dry. Beat egg whites in the mixer on medium low for 1 minute. Turn up the speed to medium high and beat the egg whites until they begin to form stiff peaks.
Whisk the sugar and cornstarch together in a bowl. Gradually sprinkle it into the egg whites with the machine running until stiff peaks form and it is glossy. Your machine will sound like it is working hard. Add the vinegar and whisk in by hand until combined.
Scoop the meringue onto the circle on the parchment paper and use a silicon spatula to form it into a round free-form shape, making it as high as possible as it will settle back down during baking.
Bake for 1 hour. I like my Pavlova spongy and moist inside, so I cook mine less than usual. If you like yours drier inside, cook it for 1 hour and 20 minutes. Turn off the heat in the oven, leave the oven door cracked open by putting a wooden spoon in between the door and the oven, and leave the meringue there for 1 hour to completely cool. It is normal for cracks to form.
Whipped Cream
Beat the cream until soft peaks form. Add the vanilla and sugar and beat again until stiff peaks form. Spoon this onto the top of the Pavlova and serve with mixed berries showered over the top.
Tip
Don’t make a Pavlova when it is humid or raining outside, as it will not work as well. Make it on sunny, dry days.
Chocolate Soufflé
Soufflé au Chocolat Quicker | Serves 4
Because of my father’s love for soufflés and his enthusiasm for frequently making them, I learned at an early age there is nothing to fear. Yes, they will fall if you open the oven door before they are ready. Yes, they will deflate if you don’t eat them right away. But once you know that, there’s no stopping you from making them.
Special Equipment 1 (8-inch) soufflé dish; parchment paper; kitchen twine; roasting pan; electric hand mixer
1-1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
Granulated sugar
2 (4-ounce) bars semisweet chocolate, finely chopped
1/4 cup milk
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1-1/4 cups half-and-half
3 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
4 egg yolks, room temperature
1/4 cup granulated sugar
5 egg whites, room temperature
1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
Confectioner’s sugar
Arrange a rack in the oven that will leave enough room for the soufflé dish to fit in with its high paper collar.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Use 1 tablespoon butter to grease the inside of the soufflé dish then sprinkle all over with granulated sugar.
Cut 1 piece of parchment 26 inches long by 11 inches high and fold it in half horizontally. Butter the upper half of the paper with 1/2 tablespoon butter and liberally sprinkle it with granulated sugar. Wrap the paper around the dish and tie it with twine so that the paper extends 4 inches above the rim of the dish. This gives the soufflé a surface to climb.
Place the dish in the roasting pan. Heat enough water to fill the roasting pan halfway; keep the water hot until needed.
Melt the chocolate with the milk in a saucepan over low heat, whisking until smooth.
Melt the 4 tablespoons butter in a separate saucepan, whisk in the flour, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the half-and-half gradually as you whisk. Add the vanilla and cook until thickened. Whisk in the melted chocolate and allow to cool to room temperature.
Using the hand mixer, beat the egg yolks with the 1/4 cup granulated sugar until they are pale and thick. Whisk in the chocolate mixture to blend.
Clean the beaters then beat the egg whites until foamy in a separate bowl. Add the cream of tartar and beat until stiff.
Add 1 cup of the egg whites to the chocolate mixture and whisk gently to lighten the batter. Then add all of the egg whites and, using a rubber spatula, cut down with the edge of the spatula into the mixture and scoop the batter upwards. Turn the bowl and repeat all the way around, folding the bottom batter into the top. You do this rather than stirring so you maintain as much volume as possible.
Scoop all of the batter into the soufflé dish. Run your thumb around the inside edge of the dish to help it rise.
Place the roasting pan with the soufflé dish in the oven. Carefully pour hot water into the roasting pan to reach halfway up the soufflé dish. Bake for 35–40 minutes, or until puffy. Check visually, without opening the oven door, at 25 minutes, and only open and take the soufflé out when it is fully puffed up and ready to remove from the oven.
Remove the paper collar. Dust the top of the soufflé with confectioner’s sugar and serve.
White Chocolate Crèmes Brûlées with Salty Pistachios
Crèmes Brûlées au Chocolat Blanc et aux Pistaches Salées Quicker | Serves 6
No need for a blowtorch to make these easy individual crèmes brûlées. I make the caramel in a skillet and pour it over each dessert. It hardens into a beautiful mahogany hard surface that you punch through with your spoon to reach the cool, creamy custard below.
Special Equipment 6 (8-ounce) ramekins; roasting pan
4 large egg yolks, room temperature
2 large eggs, room temperature
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
3 cups heavy cream
1 vanilla bean
6 ounces white chocolate, finely chopped
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
Caramel Topping
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup salted shelled pistachios, coarsely chopped
Preheat oven to 300 degrees F. Place the ramekins in the roasting pan. Heat enough water to reach halfway up the ramekins so that it is very hot by the time you are ready to bake.
In a heatproof bowl, whisk the egg yolks and eggs with the salt and sugar until blended.
In a saucepan, heat the cream until small bubbles form around the edges and it is almost at a simmer. Scrape in the vanilla bean seeds and then toss in the bean. Add the chocolate, remove from heat, and vigorously stir until melted. Whisk in the vanilla until the mixture is very smooth.
Pour the hot cream mixture very slowly into the eggs while continuously whisking. Slowly adding the hot cream to the eggs tempers the eggs and slowly raises their temperature before entering the hot oven. Pull out the vanilla bean and discard. Fill the ramekins with this mixture.
Put the roasting pan into the oven then carefully pour in the hot water until it comes halfway up each ramekin. Bake for 25–30 minutes, until set.
Remove from the oven (being careful not to slosh water from the baking dish into the ramekins) and cool to room temperature. Then cover them with plastic wrap and refrigerate.
Take them out of the refrigerator 30 minutes before serving.
Caramel Topping
Place a skillet over low to medium heat, pour in sugar, and periodically shake until the sugar has melted and turned a deep caramel color. Very carefully, so as not to splash the hot caramel on your skin, spoon it over each custard and swirl to completely cover the tops. Sprinkle with pistachios and let set for 2 minutes, until the caramel has hardened and is ready to serve.
Pastis Gascon
Le Pastis Gascon Longer | Serves 6 to 8
A sweet from the southwest of France, pastis gascon is quite difficult to make, as it requires paper-thin dough that needs lots of gentle pulling to stretch it into very thin pieces, so many people use store-bought phyllo to make it at home. It also requires marinating apples in Armagnac overnight. The tart is quick to make the next day and looks marvelous with all its ruffles.
Special Equipment 1 (9- or 10-inch) tart pan with removable bottom or 1 pie plate
First Day
3 tablespoons butter
6 medium to large Granny Smith apples
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 cup light brown sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 cup Armagnac or cognac
Second Day
10 sheets phyllo dough
6 tablespoons butter, melted
1/2 cup confectioner’s sugar, divided
First Day
Melt butter in a skillet. Peel and core the apples, slice into quarters then into paper-thin slices, and toss in the skillet. Sprinkle the granulated sugar over the top and cook the apples on low heat until they are just barely soft. Turn off the heat and let the apples cool to room temperature.
In a large mixing bowl, whisk the brown sugar, vanilla, and Armagnac to combine.
Toss the apples into the bowl and stir well to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and let set on the counter overnight. Check the instructions on the frozen phyllo dough. If it needs to thaw overnight in the refrigerator, put the package in the refrigerator.
Second Day
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Butter the tart pan.
Dry the apples in paper towels and discard any leftover juice or sugar in the bowl.
Lay 1 sheet of phyllo in the pan. Brush lightly with melted butter and sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar. Repeat for 2 more sheets of phyllo, laying each sheet perpendicular to the last.
Mound half the apples on the phyllo, sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar, mound the remaining apples on top, and sprinkle with more sugar.
Lay 1 sheet of phyllo over the top, brush lightly with melted butter, and sprinkle lightly with confectioner’s sugar. Repeat for 1 more sheet of phyllo. Fold in all the edges very loosely over the apples.
With kitchen shears, cut the last 5 pieces of phyllo and scatter, interweave, and ruffle them across the top, attempting to pile them high and leave space between them.
Bake for 25 minutes, or until light golden brown.
Lightly dust with confectioner’s sugar and serve. The pastis gascon will be thin and very light. It is best served while still warm out of the oven. If you must serve it later or the next day, reheat it in the oven to crisp it up.
Tip
Have a little fun with this and make individual free-form desserts by placing smaller circles of phyllo on a baking sheet, adding the apples, then pulling up the phyllo on all sides to make purses.
A Precious Pear Charlotte
Une Adorable Charlotte aux Poires Longer | serves 8
First created in France by the great chef Antonin Carême, a charlotte was a creation of sliced cake lining a mold then filled with a mousse thickened with gelatin. It is a classic French pastry, brought to the table tied around the middle with a satin ribbon. Normally the French would buy this in a pastry shop, but it is actually quite easy to make at home, although it requires several steps, takes time, and must be made the day before as it needs to be refrigerated overnight. It’s totally worth it.
Special Equipment 1 (7.5- to 8-inch) glass or ceramic soufflé dish or a traditional charlotte mold; food processor; electric hand mixer
Charlotte
1 cup plus 3/4 cup granulated sugar, divided
1-1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon dry white wine, divided
4 star anise
3 (15-ounce) cans sliced pears in syrup or pear juice
1-1/2 cups heavy whipping cream, chilled
1/4 teaspoon anise extract
6 large egg yolks, room temperature
1 tablespoon unflavored powdered gelatin
1 (7-ounce) package Savoiardi biscuits or ladyfingers
Melted Chocolate
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 ounces semisweet chocolate, finely chopped
Charlotte
Cut a piece of plastic wrap 24 inches long and fit it into the dish or mold, leaving the excess hanging as you will use it later to fold over the top. Cut off another piece of plastic wrap and fit it into the dish at a 90-degree angle. Gently press all the way around the bottom to ensure the plastic wrap fits snugly. The plastic wrap will ensure that the charlotte is easy to unmold.
Make a wine syrup by melting 1 cup sugar with 1 cup wine and the star anise in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook for 5 minutes. Cool to room temperature then discard the star anise.
Drain the pears, reserving the syrup. Put 2-1/2 cups of the pears in the food processor and process until very smooth. Measure out 1-1/2 cups of the purée. Save the rest of the pears for later.
Using the mixer, whip the cream and the anise extract until soft peaks form. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Pour 3/4 cup sugar over the egg yolks then beat for 3 minutes until fluffy and pale. Combine the pear purée and 1/4 cup wine in a saucepan and bring to a boil, being careful not to let it plop on your skin.
Soften the gelatin in 8 teaspoons pear syrup, stir, let rest for 5 minutes, and then add it to the boiling pear purée. Whisk while simmering for 1 minute then take off the heat and continue whisking for 4 minutes.
Scoop half of the pear mixture into the egg yolks and beat for 30 seconds then add the rest of the mixture and beat for 1 minute. Allow to cool for 10 minutes. If it is too warm, it will deflate the whipped cream.
Quickly dip the biscuits into the wine syrup and line them up around the inside edges of the mold with their rounded sides out. Then line the bottom with them. Keep any remaining wine syrup.
Fold the whipped cream into the egg mixture, trying to maintain volume while thoroughly combining.
Pour this mixture into the mold, fold over the plastic wrap to cover the top, and place in the refrigerator overnight.
The next day, when you are ready to serve the charlotte, use a small sharp knife or kitchen scissors to cut off the tops of the cookies so they are flush with the chilled custard. Fit a plate over the charlotte and invert to unmold. Pull the mold off the charlotte and take off the plastic wrap. Arrange the reserved pear slices in a decorative pattern over the top.
Melted Chocolate
Make the chocolate drizzle by heating the cream and salt in a saucepan until small bubbles form around the edges. Toss in the chocolate, remove from heat, and vigorously whisk until the chocolate is melted and the drizzle is smooth. Drizzle over the top of the pears and serve the charlotte.
Tip
For festive occasions, tie a beautiful ribbon around the charlotte: white for a wedding theme, red for Christmas, orange for Thanksgiving, pink for Valentine’s Day.
Valbonnaise Almond Tart
Tarte Valbonnaise aux Amandes Longer | Serves 8
Invented by the French pastry chef Christian Camprini, the Valbonnaise is named after the village of Valbonne, which is down the hill from where I lived in France. My rendition of his dazzling tart is vastly simplified, yet comes out tasting and looking pretty close to the original.
It is made in three layers—a shortbread layer, a marzipan layer, and a baked layer of almond meringue topped with sliced almonds that have been caramelized while they bake—yielding different textures, from the crunchy bottom all the way up to the soft, chewy top layer.
Special Equipment 1 (9-inch) springform pan; parchment paper; electric stand mixer
Shortbread Layer
Softened butter and sugar, for the pan
2 sticks unsalted butter, room temperature
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup cornstarch
Marzipan Layer
1/4 cup orange marmalade
1 (7-ounce) package almond paste
Zest of 1 organic orange
Almond Meringue Layer
5 large egg whites, room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup confectioner’s sugar
3/4 cup almond flour
1/2 cup or more sliced almonds
Confectioner’s sugar
Shortbread Layer
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Butter and sugar the bottom of the springform pan. Cut a piece of parchment paper that will be long enough to stand up and line the inside of the pan all the way around, approximately 29 inches long and 3 inches high when folded in half. Butter and generously sugar the paper and stand it up around the inside of the pan.
Using the mixer, cream the butter and sugar for 2 minutes. Add the salt, vanilla, flour, and cornstarch and then pinch and knead with your hands until you have a soft dough. Scoop all of this into the bottom of the pan and press down into an even layer using your fingers. Wet your fingers and smooth it out along the edges and across the middle. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Bake the shortbread for 35–45 minutes, until lightly golden and darker around the edges. Cool to room temperature then place in the freezer while you make the rest of the layers.
Marzipan Layer
Melt the marmalade. Grate the almond paste into a bowl, add the marmalade and orange zest, and mix well with a fork to combine. Spread this on the shortbread layer.
Almond Meringue Layer
Beat the egg whites and vanilla with the cream of tartar and salt until soft peaks form. Gradually add 1 cup sugar and beat until stiff. Sprinkle in the almond flour and mix on low for 30 seconds. Spread evenly over the marzipan layer.
Sprinkle all of the sliced almonds over the top then lightly dust with confectioner’s sugar.
Bake for 55 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool for 2 minutes then unmold the cake from the pan. Cool completely before slicing and serving.
Silky Chocolate Jelly with Berries and Whipped Cream
Gelée Soyeuse au Chocolat, Fruits Rouges et Crème Fouettée Longer | Serves 8 to 10
The French love making gelée in the summer, which are typically formed in loaf pans and are full of fruits of the season.
I’ve indulged in my love for chocolate by instead creating a gelée with semisweet chocolate, cocoa, and milk. It is firm like Jello, but has the texture of the most luxurious chocolate pudding inside.
I pour it into a square nonstick pan and unmold it on a cake stand. Then I heap berries in the center, dollop whipped cream on top of the berries, and serve. It’s refreshing and cool and utterly delicious on a hot summer night, making a lovely presentation as well.
Special Equipment 1 (8- to 9-inch) square nonstick pan; electric hand mixer
3-1/2 cups whole milk
2 (4-ounce) packages semisweet chocolate bars, broken
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons Hershey’s Special Dark Cocoa
1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 cup cold water
2 packets plus 1-1/2 teaspoons powdered gelatin
Whipped Cream
1-1/2 cup heavy whipping cream
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
To serve
1 pint strawberries
1 pint raspberries
Heat the milk and chocolate in a saucepan, stirring frequently to encourage the chocolate to melt. Add the cocoa and sugar and whisk until the chocolate, cocoa, and sugar are melted into the milk. Add vanilla and whisk.
Pour the water into a shallow bowl, sprinkle gelatin over the top, and stir once to combine. Let stand for 2 minutes, until the gelatin absorbs all the water.
Heat the milk mixture back to a point where little bubbles are forming around the edges, until it is almost, but not quite, boiling. Vigorously whisk the gelatin into the hot milk mixture and continue cooking and whisking for about 1 minute, or until the gelatin is dissolved.
Wet the inside of the nonstick pan, place it in a larger pan to catch any spills, and pour the chocolate mixture in all the way to the top of the nonstick pan. Cool to room temperature, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 6 hours or overnight.
Before unmolding, touch the jellied chocolate. If it is still tacky to the touch, it is not set yet. The top must be dry. To unmold, briefly submerge the pan in warm (not hot) water up to the rim for 10 seconds. Then dip a small sharp knife in warm water and carefully insert the tip of it around the top edges to dislodge the jelly. Place a chilled serving plate or cake stand over the top and invert. Gently shake and tap the top of the pan to unmold. Place the plate of jelly in the refrigerator until ready to serve.
Whipped Cream
Pour the cream into a bowl and beat until soft peaks form. Sprinkle with sugar and vanilla and beat until soft peaks form again.
To serve the jelly, pile the berries in the center, top with soft mounds of whipped cream, and bring to the table to slice and serve.
Baba au Rhum
Le Baba au Rhum Longer | serves 8 to 10
Invented in France, babas au rhum are small bread-like cakes that are soaked in rum syrup. I make a large one in a decorative cake pan using pretty much the same recipe you would for a baba au rhum, savarin, brioche, or gugelhopf, all of which have similar dough. Sweet yeast breads take time to rise, so begin this one early in the day.
Special Equipment citrus microplane; food processor; candy thermometer; 1 (5- to 6-cup) decorative cake mold or Bundt pan; parchment paper; electric hand mixer
Baba
1 organic orange
4 large eggs, room temperature
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1 teaspoon almond extract
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 cups cake flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
7 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided
1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup water
2 packages active dry yeast
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, divided
Syrup
3/4 cup water
1 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup organic orange juice
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3 tablespoons dark rum
Glaze
1/2 cup orange marmalade
1 tablespoon light corn syrup
1 tablespoon rum
Whipped Cream
2 cups heavy whipping cream, chilled
3 tablespoons superfine sugar
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
2 tablespoons nonfat or skim powdered milk
To Serve
Assorted fresh berries or fruit of choice
Confectioner’s sugar
Baba
Zest the orange using the microplane then juice it. Divide the zest in half. Reserve the juice for the syrup.
With a fork, beat the eggs with the vanilla and almond extracts.
Sift both flours into the bowl of a food processor. Add the salt and 6 tablespoons sugar; pulse for 5 seconds to combine.
Pour the milk and water into a saucepan and warm over low heat to 100 degrees F on the candy thermometer. Pour into a shallow bowl, whisk in remaining sugar, sprinkle the yeast over the top, whisk, then allow to stand for at least 5 minutes to become foamy and bloom.
Add the foamy yeast, the egg mixture, half of the orange zest, and 3 tablespoons butter to the flour in the food processor; process until a smooth dough forms.
Turn out the dough into a lightly oiled bowl. It will be very sticky and soft. Cover with plastic wrap then with a thick kitchen towel and let rise for 1 hour, until it has doubled in volume.
Brush the remaining butter over the inside of the baking pan, taking care to cover any inside crevices.
Punch down the dough and use a metal spoon or rubber spatula to transfer it into the mold. Cover with plastic wrap, then a towel, and leave to rise for 20 minutes while you preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
Bake for 20–25 minutes, until golden brown on top. Remove from oven, cool in the pan for 2 minutes, then unmold onto a wire rack set over a plate or parchment paper.
Syrup
Bring the water, sugar, and orange juice to a boil. Remove from the heat and whisk in the vanilla and rum. Poke holes all over the top of the cake with a skewer and pour the boiling syrup over the top of the cake to soak in. Do this several times, using up any accumulated syrup from the bottom of the plate, until the cake is drenched and thoroughly soaked.
Wrap the cake in plastic wrap to keep the moisture in and let set for 20 minutes.
Glaze
Melt the marmalade with the corn syrup and rum and brush the resulting glaze all over the cake. Allow to set for 15 minutes.
Whipped Cream
Pour the cream into a bowl and beat with the mixer until soft peaks form. Sprinkle with sugar, vanilla, and powdered milk and beat until soft peaks form again.
To Serve
Serve slices of cake with berries or fruit and confectioner’s sugar sprinkled over the top.
Tip
You can omit the rum throughout the recipe and substitute orange juice.
