RESERVATIONS, ADVANCE TICKETS, AND PASSES
USING A MOBILE PHONE IN EUROPE
Map: Italy’s Public Transportation
Map: Hill Town Public Transportation
TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES
This chapter covers the practical skills of European travel: how to get tourist information, pay for things, sightsee efficiently, find good-value accommodations, eat affordably but well, use technology wisely, and get between destinations smoothly.
For more information on these topics, see RickSteves.com/travel-tips.
Before your trip, scan the website of the Italian national tourist office (www.italia.it) for a wealth of travel information. If you have a specific question, try contacting one of their US offices (New York: Tel. 212/245-5618, newyork@enit.it; Los Angeles: Tel. 310/820-1898, losangeles@enit.it).
In Italy, a good first stop in every town is generally the tourist information office (abbreviated TI in this book). TIs are in business to help you enjoy spending money in their town, but even so, I still make a point to swing by to pick up a city map and get information on public transit, walking tours, special events, and nightlife. Anticipating a harried front-line staffer, prepare a list of questions and a proposed plan to double-check. While Italian TIs are about half as helpful as those in other countries, their information is twice as important.
Some TIs have information on the entire country or at least the region, so try to pick up maps and printed information for destinations you’ll be visiting later in your trip.
Be wary of travel agencies or special information services that masquerade as TIs but serve fancy hotels and tour companies. They’re selling things you don’t need.
Travel Advisories: For updated health and safety conditions, including any restrictions for your destination, consult the US State Department’s international travel website (travel.state.gov).
Emergency and Medical Help: For any emergency service—ambulance, police, or fire—call 112 from a mobile phone or landline. Operators, who generally speak English, will deal with your request or route you to the right emergency service. If you get sick, do as the locals do and go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know the nearest medical and emergency services.
ETIAS Registration: The European Union may soon require US and Canadian citizens to register online with the European Travel Information and Authorization System (ETIAS) before entering Italy and other Schengen Zone countries (quick and easy process). For the latest, check www.etiasvisa.com.
Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy (see below). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards” on here). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen rail passes or electronics, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For more information, see www.ricksteves.com/help.
US Embassies and Consulates: Embassy in Rome—tel. 06-46741, passport and nonemergency consular services by appointment only, walk-in emergency services Mon-Fri 8:30-12:00 (Via Vittorio Veneto 121). Consulates in Milan—tel. 02-290-351 (Via Principe Amedeo 2/10); Florence—tel. 055-266-951 (Lungarno Vespucci 38); and Naples—tel. 081-583-8111 (Piazza della Repubblica). For all, see http://it.usembassy.gov.
Canadian Embassies: Rome—tel. 06-854-441 (Via Zara 30); Milan—tel. 02-626-94238 (Piazza Cavour 3). For both, see www.italy.gc.ca [URL inactive]. After-hours emergency tel. in Ottawa 613-996-8885.
Avoiding Theft and Scams: Although violent crime is rare in Italy, petty theft is common in large cities and heavily touristed sights. With sweet-talking con artists meeting you at the station and well-dressed pickpockets on buses, tourists face a gauntlet of rip-offs. Pickpockets don’t want to hurt you—they usually just want your money and gadgets. Green or sloppy tourists are prone to scams.
Thieves strike when you’re distracted. Don’t trust overly kind strangers. Keep nothing important in your pockets, and be especially careful with expensive cell phones—maintain a firm grip when you’re using one. Be on guard while boarding and leaving buses and subways. Thieves jam up the door, then stop and turn while others crowd and push from behind. You’ll find less crowding and commotion—and less risk—on the end cars of a subway rather than the middle cars. Hold your bags in front with your arms over them. Sneaky thieves pretend to be teenagers on holiday, well-dressed businessmen, or tourists wearing fanny packs and toting cameras and even Rick Steves guidebooks. The best deterrent is to look confident and aware, not confused and afraid.
Watch out for fast-fingered moms with babies and groups of children picking the pockets and handbags of naive tourists. Be particularly aware of groups of young women who seem to have nothing to do. Pickpockets troll tourist crowds around major sights and at train stations. Watch them target tourists who are overloaded with bags or distracted with their phones.
Scams abound. When paying for something, be aware of how much cash you’re handing over, demand clear and itemized bills, and count your change. Don’t give your wallet to self-proclaimed “police” who stop you on the street, warn you about counterfeit (or drug) money, and ask to see your cash. If a bank machine eats your ATM card, check for a thin plastic insert with a tongue hanging out (thieves use these devices to extract cards).
If you feel you are being scammed or are in a situation that makes you feel threatened, use your camera to document the incident and call the police immediately. This alone may deter criminal behavior.
Don’t be scared—just be aware and be smart, and you’ll be fine.
Time Zones: Italy, like most of continental Europe, is generally six/nine hours ahead of the East/West Coasts of the US. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Europe “springs forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America), and “falls back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy time converter, use the world clock app on your phone or download one (see www.timeanddate.com).
Business Hours: Traditionally, Italy used the siesta plan, with people generally working from about 9:00 to 13:00 and from 15:30-16:00 to 19:00-19:30, Monday through Saturday. Siesta hours are no longer required by law, so many shops stay open through lunch or later into the evening, especially larger stores in tourist areas. Shops in small towns and villages are more likely to close during lunch. Stores are usually closed on Sunday, and often on Monday. Many shops close for a couple of weeks around August 15.
Watt’s Up? Europe’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most electronics (laptops, smartphones, cameras) and new hair dryers convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter, but you will need an adapter plug with two round prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US. Sockets in Italy and Switzerland only accept plugs with slimmer prongs: Don’t buy an adapter with the thicker (“Schuko” style) prongs—it won’t work. Avoid bringing older appliances that don’t automatically convert voltage; instead, buy a cheap replacement in Europe.
Discounts: Discounts for sights are generally not listed in this book. However, youths under 18 and students and teachers with proper identification cards (obtain from www.isic.org) can get discounts at many sights—always ask. Italy’s national museums generally offer free admission to children under 18, but some discounts are available only for citizens of the European Union (EU).
Tobacco Shops: Known as tabacchi (often indicated with a big T sign), these Italian-style minimarts are ubiquitous across the country. They’re handy places to pay for street parking and purchase such things as batteries, tickets for city buses and subways, and sometimes postage. If you aren’t sure where to buy something, a tabacchi is a good place to start.
Online Translation Tips: Google’s Chrome browser instantly translates websites; Translate.google.com is also handy. The Google Translate app converts spoken or typed English into most European languages (and vice versa) and can also translate text it “reads” with your smartphone’s camera.
Here’s my basic strategy for using money in Europe:
• Upon arrival, head for a cash machine (ATM) at the airport and withdraw some local currency, using a debit card with low international transaction fees.
• In general, pay for bigger expenses with a credit card and use cash for smaller purchases and tips. Use a debit card only for cash withdrawals.
• Keep your cards and cash safe in a money belt.
Although credit cards are widely accepted in Europe, cash is sometimes the only way to pay for cheap food, bus fare, taxis, tips, and local guides. Some businesses (especially smaller ones, such as B&Bs and mom-and-pop cafés and shops) may charge you extra for using a credit card—or might not accept credit cards at all. Having cash on hand helps you out of a jam if your card randomly doesn’t work.
I use my credit card to book and pay for hotel reservations, to buy advance tickets for events or sights, and to cover most other expenses. It can also be smart to use plastic near the end of your trip, to avoid another visit to the ATM.
I pack the following and keep it all safe in my money belt.
Debit Card: Use this at ATMs to withdraw local cash.
Credit Card: Handy for bigger transactions (at hotels, shops, restaurants, travel agencies, car-rental agencies, and so on), payment machines, and online purchases.
Backup Card: Some travelers carry a third card (debit or credit; ideally from a different bank), in case one gets lost, demagnetized, eaten by a temperamental machine, or simply doesn’t work.
A Stash of Cash: I carry $100-200 as a cash backup, which comes in handy in an emergency (such as when the banks go on strike or if your ATM card gets eaten by the machine).
What NOT to Bring: Resist the urge to buy euros before your trip or you’ll pay the price in bad stateside exchange rates. Wait until you arrive to withdraw money. I’ve yet to see a European airport that doesn’t have plenty of ATMs.
Use this pre-trip checklist.
Know your cards. Debit cards from any major US bank will work in any standard European bank’s ATM (ideally, use a debit card with a Visa or MasterCard logo). As for credit cards, Visa and MasterCard are universal, American Express is less common, and Discover is unknown in Europe.
Know your PIN. Make sure you know the numeric, four-digit PIN for all of your cards, both debit and credit. Request it if you don’t have one, as it may be required for some purchases in Europe (see “Using Credit Cards,” later), and allow time to receive the information by mail.
Report your travel dates. Let your bank know that you’ll be using your debit and credit cards in Europe, and when and where you’re headed.
Adjust your ATM withdrawal limit. Find out how much you can take out daily and ask for a higher daily withdrawal limit if you want to get more cash at once. Note that European ATMs will withdraw funds only from checking accounts; you’re unlikely to have access to your savings account.
Ask about fees. For any purchase or withdrawal made with a card, you may be charged a currency conversion fee (1-3 percent) and/or a Visa or MasterCard international transaction fee (less than 1 percent). If you’re getting a bad deal, consider getting a new debit or credit card. Reputable no-fee cards include those from Capital One, as well as Charles Schwab debit cards. Most credit unions and some airline loyalty cards have low or no international transaction fees.
European cash machines have English-language instructions and work just like they do at home—except they spit out local currency instead of dollars, calculated at the day’s standard bank-to-bank rate.
In most places, ATMs are easy to locate—in Italy ask for a bancomat. When possible, withdraw cash from a bank-run ATM located just outside that bank. Ideally use the machine during the bank’s opening hours so you can go inside for help if your card is munched.
If your debit card doesn’t work, try a lower amount—your request may have exceeded your withdrawal limit or the ATM’s limit. If you still have a problem, try a different ATM or come back later—your bank’s network may be temporarily down.
Avoid “independent” ATMs, such as Travelex, Euronet, Moneybox, Your Cash, Cardpoint, and Cashzone. These have high fees, can be less secure than a bank ATM, and may try to trick users with “dynamic currency conversion” (see next page).
Avoid exchanging money in Europe; it’s a big rip-off. In a pinch, you can always find exchange desks at major train stations or airports—convenient but with crummy rates. Anything over 5 percent for a transaction is piracy. Banks generally do not exchange money unless you have an account with them.
Despite some differences between European and US cards, there’s little to worry about: US credit cards generally work fine in Europe. I’ve been inconvenienced a few times by self-service payment machines that wouldn’t accept my card, but it’s never caused me serious trouble (I carry cash just in case).
European cards use chip-and-PIN technology; most chip cards issued in the US have a signature option instead. Some European card readers will accept your card as-is while others may generate a receipt for you to sign or prompt you to enter your PIN (so it’s important to know the code for each of your cards). If a cashier is present, you should have no problems.
At self-service payment machines (transit-ticket kiosks, parking, etc.), results are mixed, as US cards may not work in some unattended transactions. If your card won’t work, look for a cashier who can process your card manually—or pay in cash.
Drivers Beware: Be aware of potential problems using a US credit card to fill up at an unattended gas station, enter a parking garage, or exit a toll road. Always carry cash as a backup and be prepared to move on to the next gas station if necessary. When approaching a toll plaza, use the “cash” lane.
If merchants offer to convert your purchase price into dollars (called dynamic currency conversion, or DCC), refuse this “service.” You’ll pay extra for the expensive convenience of seeing your charge in dollars. If an ATM offers to “lock in” or “guarantee” your conversion rate, choose “proceed without conversion.” Other prompts might state, “You can be charged in dollars: Press YES for dollars, NO for euros.” Always choose the local currency.
Pickpockets target tourists. Keep your cash, credit cards, and passport secure in your money belt, and carry only a day’s spending money in your front pocket or wallet.
Before inserting your card into an ATM, inspect the front. If anything looks crooked, loose, or damaged, it could be a sign of a card-skimming device. When entering your PIN, carefully block other people’s view of the keypad.
Don’t use a debit card for purchases. Because a debit card pulls funds directly from your bank account, potential charges incurred by a thief will stay on your account while the fraudulent use is investigated by your bank.
To access your accounts online while traveling, be sure to use a secure connection (see the “Tips on Internet Security” sidebar, later).
If you lose your credit or debit card, report the loss immediately to the respective global customer-assistance centers. With a mobile phone, call these 24-hour US numbers: Visa (tel. +1 303/967-1096), MasterCard (tel. +1 636/722-7111), and American Express (tel. +1 336/393-1111). From a landline, you can call these US numbers collect by going through a local operator. European toll-free numbers can be found at the websites for Visa and MasterCard.
You’ll need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details (such as birth date, mother’s maiden name, or Social Security number). You can generally receive a temporary card within two or three business days in Europe (see www.ricksteves.com/help for more).
If you report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee.
Tipping in Italy isn’t as automatic and generous as it is in the US. For special service, tips are appreciated, but not expected. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, tipping philosophy, and the circumstances, but some general guidelines apply.
Restaurants: In Italy, a service charge (servizio) is usually built into your check (look at the bill carefully). If it is included, there’s no need to leave an extra tip. If it’s not included, it’s common to leave about €1 per person (a bit more at finer restaurants) or to round up the bill. For more details on restaurant tipping, see here.
Taxis: For a typical ride, round up your fare a bit (for instance, if the fare is €4.50, pay €5). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to toss in a little more. But if you feel like you’re being driven in circles or otherwise ripped off, skip the tip.
Services: In general, if someone in the tourism or service industry does a super job for you, a small tip of a euro or two is appropriate...but not required. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip, ask a local for advice.
Wrapped into the purchase price of your Italian souvenirs is a Value-Added Tax (VAT) of about 22 percent. You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase more than €155 (about $185) worth of goods at a store that participates in the VAT-refund scheme. Typically, you must ring up the minimum at a single retailer—you can’t add up your purchases from various shops to reach the required amount. (If the store ships the goods to your US home, VAT is not assessed on your purchase.)
Getting your refund is straightforward...and worthwhile if you spend a significant amount on souvenirs.
Get the paperwork. Have the merchant completely fill out the necessary refund document. You’ll have to present your passport. Get the paperwork done before you leave the store to ensure you’ll have everything you need (including your original sales receipt).
Get your stamp at the border or airport. Process your VAT document at your last stop in the European Union (such as at the airport) with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds. Arrive an additional hour before you need to check in to allow time to find the customs office—and wait. Some customs desks are positioned before airport security; confirm the location before going through security.
It’s best to keep your purchases in your carry-on. If your item isn’t allowed as carry-on (such as a knife), pack it in your checked bag and alert the check-in agent. You’ll be sent (with your tagged bag) to a customs desk outside security; someone will examine your bag, stamp your paperwork, and put your bag on the belt. You’re not supposed to use your purchased goods before you leave. If you show up at customs wearing your new Italian leather shoes, officials might look the other way—or deny you a refund.
Collect your refund. You can claim your VAT refund from refund companies such as Global Blue or Planet with offices at major airports, ports, or border crossings (either before or after security, probably strategically located near a duty-free shop). These services (which extract a 4 percent fee) can refund your money in cash immediately or credit your card. Otherwise, mail the stamped refund documents to the address given by the shop where you made your purchase.
You can take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 31 days. Many processed and packaged foods are allowed, including vacuum-packed cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, mustard, and honey. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed, with exceptions for some canned items. As for alcohol, you can bring in one liter duty-free (it can be packed securely in your checked luggage, along with any other liquid-containing items).
To bring alcohol (or liquid-packed foods) in your carry-on bag on your flight home, buy it at a duty-free shop at the airport. You’ll increase your odds of getting it onto a connecting flight if it’s packaged in a “STEB”—a secure, tamper-evident bag. But stay away from liquids in opaque, ceramic, or metallic containers, which usually cannot be successfully screened (STEB or no STEB).
For details on allowable goods, customs rules, and duty rates, visit http://help.cbp.gov [URL inactive].
Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to Italy’s finest sights meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.
A good map is essential for efficient navigation while sightseeing. The maps in this book are concise and simple, designed to help you locate recommended destinations, sights, and local TIs, where you can pick up more in-depth maps.
You can also use a mapping app on your mobile device. Be aware that pulling up maps or looking up turn-by-turn walking directions on the fly usually requires a data connection: To use this feature, it’s smart to get an international data plan. With Google Maps or City Maps 2Go, it’s possible to download a map while online, then go offline and navigate without incurring data-roaming charges, though you can’t search for an address or get real-time walking directions. A handful of other apps—including Apple Maps and Navmii—also allow you to use maps offline.
Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at opening hours, see this book’s “At a Glance” sidebars for each major city (Venice, Milan, Florence, Siena, and Rome). Most sights keep stable hours, but you can easily confirm the latest by checking with the TI or visiting museum websites. Or call sights in the morning and ask: “Are you open today?” (“Aperto oggi?”; ah-PER-toh OH-jee) and “What time do you close?” (“A che ora chiude?”; ah kay OH-rah kee-OO-day).
Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close unexpectedly for a holiday, strike, or restoration. Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on holidays such as Christmas, New Year’s (Capodanno), Italian Liberation Day (April 25), Labor Day (May 1), and Ferragosto (Feast of the Assumption, Aug 15). A list of holidays is in the appendix; check for possible closures during your trip. In summer, some sights may stay open late. In the off-season, hours may be shorter.
Going at the right time helps avoid crowds. This book offers tips on the best times to see specific sights. Try visiting popular sights very early or very late. Evening visits (when possible) are usually peaceful, with fewer crowds. Late morning is usually the worst time to visit a popular sight.
If you plan to hire a local guide, reserve ahead by email. Popular guides can get booked up.
Study up. To get the most out of the self-guided tours and sight descriptions in this book, read them before you visit.
Given how precious your vacation time is, I recommend getting reservations for any must-see sight that offers them (see here).
To deal with lines, many popular sights sell advance tickets that guarantee admission at a certain time of day (for example, Florence’s Uffizi Gallery or Rome’s Vatican Museums), or that allow you to skip entry lines. Either way, it’s worth giving up some spontaneity to book in advance. While hundreds of tourists sweat in long ticket-buying lines, those who’ve booked ahead are assured of getting in. In some cases, getting a ticket in advance simply means buying your ticket earlier on the same day. But for other sights, you may need to book weeks or even months in advance. As soon as you’re ready to commit to a certain date, book it. To avoid surprises, make sure you are using an official site.
The advance-purchase price may be less expensive than what you would pay on-site. And many museums offer convenient mobile ticketing. Simply buy your ticket online and send it to your phone, eliminating the need for a paper ticket.
Some cities offer passes (e.g., Florence’s Duomo sights combo-ticket or Siena’s Acropoli pass) that cover admission to several sights. At some popular places (such as Venice’s Doge’s Palace), you can get in more quickly by buying your combo-ticket or pass at a less-crowded sight (the Correr Museum).
Booking a guided tour can help you avoid lines at many popular sights. So can knowing what days to avoid. State museums in Italy are free to enter (and more crowded) once or twice a month, usually on a Sunday. In peak season, check museum websites for specifics and avoid free entry days when possible.
Here’s what you can typically expect:
Entering: You may not be allowed to enter if you arrive too close to closing time. And guards start ushering people out well before the actual closing time, so don’t save the best for last.
Many sights have a security check. Allow extra time for these lines. Some sights require you to check daypacks and coats. (If you’d rather not check your daypack, try carrying it tucked under your arm like a purse as you enter.) Pocketknives may not be allowed.
Photography: If the museum’s photo policy isn’t clearly posted, ask a guard. Generally, taking photos without a flash or tripod is allowed. Some sights ban selfie sticks; others ban photos altogether.
Audioguides and Apps: Many sights rent audioguides with excellent recorded descriptions in English. If you bring your own earbuds, you can often enjoy better sound. If you don’t mind being tethered to your travel partner, you’ll save money by bringing a Y-jack and sharing one audioguide. Museums and sights often offer free apps that you can download to your mobile device (check their websites). And, I’ve produced free, downloadable audio tours for some of Italy’s major sights, including those in Venice, Florence, Milan, Rome, Assisi, Naples, and Pompeii; look for the 
in this book. For more on my audio tours, see here.
Temporary Exhibits: Museums may show special exhibits in addition to their permanent collection. Some exhibits are included in the entry price, while others come at an extra cost (which you may have to pay even if you don’t want to see the exhibit).
Expect Changes: Artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. Pick up a floor plan as you enter, and ask the museum staff if you can’t find a particular item. Say the title or artist’s name, or point to the photograph in this book and ask, “Dov’è?” (doh-VEH, meaning “Where is?”).
Dates for Artwork: Art historians and Italians refer to the great Florentine centuries by dropping a thousand years. The Trecento (300s), Quattrocento (400s), and Cinquecento (500s) were the 1300s, 1400s, and 1500s. The Novecento (900s) means modern art (the 1900s). In Italian museums, art is dated with sec for secolo (century, often indicated with Roman numerals), AC (avanti Cristo, or BC), and DC (dopo Cristo, or AD). OK?
Services: Important sights usually have a reasonably priced on-site café or cafeteria (handy places to rejuvenate during a long visit). The WCs at sights are free and generally clean.
Before Leaving: At the gift shop, scan the postcard rack or thumb through a guidebook to be sure that you haven’t overlooked something that you’d like to see. Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information I provide as an introduction—not the final word.
Churches offer some amazing art (usually free), a cool respite from heat, and a welcome seat.
A modest dress code—no bare shoulders or shorts for anyone, even kids—is enforced at larger churches—such as the Duomos in Florence and Siena, Venice’s St. Mark’s Basilica, and the Vatican’s St. Peter’s—but is often overlooked elsewhere. If you’re caught by surprise, you can sometimes improvise, using maps to cover your shoulders and a jacket for your knees. A few major churches let you borrow or buy disposable ponchos to cover up in a pinch. (I wear a super-lightweight pair of long pants rather than shorts for my hot and muggy Italian sightseeing.) If your heart’s set on seeing a certain church, err on the side of caution and dress appropriately. Note that major churches, particularly in Rome, have security checks.
Some churches have coin-operated boxes that trigger lights to illuminate works of art. I pop in a coin whenever I can, to improve my experience (and photos), as a small contribution to that church, and as a courtesy to other visitors enjoying this great art. Whenever possible, let there be light.
Extensive and opinionated listings of good-value rooms are a major feature of this book’s Sleeping sections. Rather than list accommodations scattered throughout a town, I choose hotels in my favorite neighborhoods that are convenient to your sightseeing.
My recommendations run the gamut, from dorm beds to fancy rooms with all of the comforts. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner or manager, and run with a respect for Italian traditions. I’m more impressed by a handy location and a fun-loving philosophy than flat-screen TVs and a fancy gym. Most of my recommendations fall short of perfection. But if I can find a place with most of these features, it’s a keeper.
Book your accommodations as soon as your itinerary is set, especially if you want to stay at one of my top listings or if you’ll be traveling during busy times. See the appendix for a list of major holidays and festivals in Italy.
Some people make reservations as they travel, calling or emailing ahead a few days to a week before their arrival. If you’re trying for a same-day reservation, it’s best to call hotels at about 9:00 or 10:00, when the receptionist knows which rooms will be available. If you encounter a language barrier, ask the fluent receptionist at your current hotel to call for you. Some apps—such as HotelTonight—specialize in last-minute rooms, often at boutique or business-class hotels in big cities.
I’ve categorized my recommended accommodations based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). The price ranges suggest an estimated cost for a one-night stay in high season in a standard double room with a private toilet and shower, including breakfast, and assume you’re booking directly with the hotel (not through a booking site, which extracts a commission). Room prices can fluctuate significantly with demand and amenities (size, views, room class, and so on), but relative price categories remain constant.
Taxes vary from place to place (figure €2-5 per person, per night). Some hoteliers will ask to collect the city tax in cash to make their bookkeeping and accounting simpler.
Room rates are especially volatile at hotels that use “dynamic pricing” to set rates. Prices can skyrocket during festivals and conventions, while business hotels can have deep discounts on weekends when demand plummets. Of the many hotels I recommend, it’s difficult to say which will be the best value on a given day—until you do your homework.
Booking Direct: Once your dates are set, compare prices at several hotels. You can do this by checking Hotels.com, Booking.com, and hotel websites. After you’ve zeroed in on your choice, book directly with the hotel itself. Contact small family-run hotels directly by phone or email. When you go direct, the owner avoids the commission paid to booking sites, thereby leaving enough wiggle room to offer you a discount, a nicer room, or a free breakfast (if it’s not already included). If you prefer to book online or are considering a hotel chain, it’s to your advantage to use the hotel’s website.
Booking directly also increases the chances that the hotelier will be able to accommodate any special needs or requests (such as shifting your reservation). Going through a middleman makes it more difficult for the hotel to adjust your booking.
Getting a Discount: Some hotels extend a discount to those who pay cash or stay longer than three nights. And some accommodations offer a special discount for Rick Steves readers, indicated in this guidebook by the abbreviation “RS%.” Discounts vary: Ask for details when you reserve. Generally, to qualify for this discount, you must book direct (not through a booking site), mention this book when you reserve, show this book upon arrival, and sometimes pay cash or stay a certain number of nights. In some cases, you may need to enter a discount code (which I’ve provided in the listing) in the booking form on the hotel’s website. Rick Steves discounts apply to readers with either print or digital books. Understandably, discounts do not apply to promotional rates.
Double rooms listed in this book range from about €50 (very simple, toilet and shower down the hall) to €450 (maximum plumbing and more), with most clustered around €140 (with private bathrooms). Prices are higher in big or heavily touristed cities, and lower off the beaten path. Traveling alone can be expensive: A camera singola is often only 25 percent less than a camera doppia.
Some hotels can add an extra bed (for a small charge) to turn a double into a triple; some offer larger rooms for four or more people (I call these “family rooms” in the listings). If there’s space for an extra cot, they’ll cram it in for you. In general, a triple room is cheaper than the cost of a double and a single. Three or four people can economize by requesting one big room.
Arrival and Check-In: Hotels and B&Bs are sometimes located on the higher floors of a multipurpose building with a secured door. In that case, look for your hotel’s name on the buttons by the main entrance. When you ring the bell, you’ll be buzzed in.
Hotel elevators are common, though some older buildings still lack them. You may have to climb a flight of stairs to reach the elevator (if so, you can ask the front desk for help carrying your bags up). Elevators are typically very small—pack light, or you may need to send your bags up without you.
The EU requires that hotels collect your name, nationality, and ID number. When you check in, the receptionist will normally ask for your passport and may keep it for anywhere from a couple of minutes to a couple of hours. If you’re not comfortable leaving your passport at the desk for a long time, ask when you can pick it up. Or, if you packed a color copy of your passport, you can generally leave that rather than the original.
If you’re arriving in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. Check your bag safely at the hotel and dive right into sightseeing.
In Your Room: Most hotel rooms have a TV, telephone, and free Wi-Fi (although in old buildings with thick walls, the Wi-Fi signal might be available only in the lobby). Simpler places rarely have a room phone. Pricier hotels usually come with a small fridge stocked with beverages, called a frigo bar (FREE-goh bar; pay for what you use).
More pillows and blankets are usually in the closet or available on request. Towels and linens aren’t always replaced every day. Some hotels use lightweight “waffle,” or very thin, tablecloth-type towels; these take less water and electricity to launder and are preferred by many Italians.
Nearly all places offer private bathrooms, which have a tub or shower, a toilet, and a bidet (which Italians use for quick sponge baths). The cord over the tub or shower is not a clothesline. You pull it when you’ve fallen and can’t get up.
Double beds are called matrimoniale, even though hotels aren’t interested in your marital status. Twins are due letti singoli. Convents offer cheap accommodation but have more letti singoli than matrimoniali.
Breakfast and Meals: Italian hotels typically include breakfast in their room prices. If breakfast is optional, you may want to skip it. While convenient, it’s usually pricey for what you get: a simple continental buffet with (at its most generous) bread, croissants, ham, cheese, yogurt, and unlimited caffè latte. A picnic in your room followed by a coffee at the corner café can be lots cheaper.
Hotels in resort areas may charge you for half-pension, called mezza pensione, during peak season. Half-pension means that you pay for one meal per day per person (lunch or dinner). If half-pension is required, you can’t opt out and pay less. If it’s an option, it can be worth considering, especially if they charge less per meal than you’ve been paying for an average restaurant meal (and provided the chef is good).
Checking Out: While it’s customary to pay for your room upon departure, it can be a good idea to settle your bill the day before, when you’re not in a hurry and while the manager’s in.
Hotelier Help: Hoteliers can be a good source of advice. Most know their city well, and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant, the nearest launderette, or a late-night pharmacy.
Hotel Hassles: Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: Sinks leak, hot water turns cold, toilets may gurgle or smell, the Wi-Fi goes out, or the air-conditioning dies when you need it most. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk.
If you find that night noise is a problem (if, for instance, your room is over a nightclub or facing a busy street), ask for a quieter room in the back or on an upper floor.
To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I’ve never bothered using one and, in a lifetime of travel, I’ve never had anything stolen out of my room.
For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results. Above all, keep a positive attitude. Remember, you’re on vacation. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the place you came to see.
B&Bs can offer good-value accommodations in excellent locations. Usually converted family homes or apartments, they can range from humble rooms with communal kitchens to high-end boutique accommodations with extra amenities. Boutique B&Bs can be an especially good option, as they are typically less expensive than a big hotel, but often newer and nicer, with more personal service. Because the B&B scene is constantly changing, it’s smart to supplement this book’s recommendations with your own research.
Be aware that B&Bs can suffer from absentee management. The proprietors often live off-site (or even in another town) and may be around only when they are expecting guests. Clearly communicate your arrival time, and after checking in, be sure you have your host’s telephone number in case you need to reach them.
A short-term rental—whether an apartment, house, or room in a local’s home—is an increasingly popular alternative, especially if you plan to settle in one location for several nights. For stays longer than a few days, you can usually find a rental that’s comparable to—and even cheaper than—a hotel room with similar amenities. Plus, you’ll get a behind-the-scenes peek into how locals live.
Many places require a minimum-night stay and have strict cancellation policies. And you’re generally on your own: There’s no hotel reception desk, breakfast, or daily cleaning service.
Finding Accommodations: Websites such as Airbnb, FlipKey, Booking.com, and the HomeAway family of sites (HomeAway, VRBO, and VacationRentals) let you browse a wide range of properties. Alternatively, rental agencies such as InterhomeUSA.com or RentaVilla.com, which list more carefully selected accommodations that might cost more, can provide more personalized service.
Before you commit, be clear on the location. I like to virtually “explore” the neighborhood using the Street View feature on Google Maps. Also consider the proximity to public transportation, and how well-connected the property is with the rest of the city. Ask about amenities (elevator, air-conditioning, laundry, Wi-Fi, parking, etc.). Reviews from previous guests can help identify trouble spots.
Think about the kind of experience you want: Just a key and an affordable bed...or a chance to get to know a local? There are typically two kinds of hosts: those who want minimal interaction with their guests, and hosts who are friendly and may want to interact with you. Read the promotional text and online reviews to help shape your decision.
Confirming and Paying: Many places require you to pay the entire balance before your trip. It’s easiest and safest to pay through the site where you found the listing. Be wary of owners who want to take your transaction offline; this gives you no recourse if things go awry. Never agree to wire money (a key indicator of a fraudulent transaction).
Apartments or Houses: If you’re staying in one place for four or more nights, it’s worth considering an apartment or rental house (shorter stays aren’t worth the hassle of arranging key pickup, buying groceries, etc.). Apartment or house rentals can be especially cost-effective for groups and families. European apartments, like hotel rooms, tend to be small by US standards. But they often come with laundry machines and small, equipped kitchens (cucinetta), making it easier and cheaper to dine in.
Rooms in Private Homes: In small towns, there may be few hotels or apartments, but an abundance of Airbnb rentals and some affittacamere (rental rooms). These can be anything from a set of keys and a basic bed to a cozy B&B with your own Tuscan grandmother. Renting a room in someone’s home is a good option for those traveling alone, as you’re more likely to find true single rooms—with just one single bed, and a price to match. Beds range from air-mattress-in-living-room basic to plush-B&B-suite posh. Some places allow you to book for a single night. While you can’t expect your host to also be your tour guide—or even to provide you with much info—some may be interested in getting to know the travelers who come through their home.
Other Options: Swapping homes with a local works for people with an appealing place to offer (don’t assume where you live is not interesting to Europeans). Good places to start are HomeExchange.com and LoveHomeSwap.com. To sleep for free, Couchsurfing.com is a vagabond’s alternative to Airbnb. It lists millions of outgoing members who host fellow “surfers” in their homes.
Agriturismi—working farms that double as countryside B&Bs—began cropping up in the 1980s to allow small family farms to survive (as in the US, many have been squeezed out by giant agribusinesses). By renting rooms to travelers, farmers receive generous tax breaks that allow them to remain on their land and continue to grow food crops. These B&Bs make a peaceful home base for those exploring rural Italy, and are ideal for those traveling by car—especially families.
It’s wise to book several months in advance for high season (late May-mid-Oct). July and August are jammed with Italians and other European vacationers; in spring and fall, it’s mostly Americans. Weeklong stays (typically Saturday to Saturday) are preferred at busy times, but shorter stays are possible off-season. To sleep cheaper, try early spring and late fall. Most places are closed in winter (about Nov-Easter).
As the name implies, agriturismi are in the countryside, although some are located on the outskirts of a large town or city. Most are family-run. Agriturismi vary dramatically in quality—some properties are rustic, while others are downright luxurious, offering amenities such as swimming pools and riding stables. The rooms are usually clean and comfortable. Breakfast is often included, and mezza pensione (half-pension, which in this case means a home-cooked dinner) might be built into the price whether you want it or not. Most places serve tasty homegrown food; some are vegetarian or organic, others are gourmet. Kitchenettes are often available to cook up your own feast.
To qualify officially as an agriturismo, the farm must still generate more money from its farm activities, thereby ensuring that the land is worked and preserved. Some travelers who are enticed by romanticized dreams of rural Italy are turned off when they arrive to actual farm smells and sounds. These folks would be more comfortable with a countryside B&B or villa that offers a bit more upscale comfort (farmhouse B&Bs are still fine places to stay, even if they aren’t working farms). In this book, I’ve listed both types of rural accommodations; if you want the real thing, make sure the owners call their place an agriturismo.
In addition to my listings, local TIs can give you a list of places in their area. For a sampling, visit AgriturismoItaly.it or search online for agriturismo. One booking agency among many is Farm Holidays in Tuscany (closed Sat-Sun, tel. 0564-417-418, www.byfarmholidays.com, info@byfarmholidays.com).
A hostel provides cheap beds in dorms where you sleep alongside strangers for about €25-30 per night. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, guest computers, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Hostels almost always provide bedding, but the towel’s up to you (though you can usually rent one for a small fee). Family and private rooms are often available.
Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required; www.hostelworld.com). You may pay slightly less by booking directly with the hostel. Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share a booking site (www.hihostels.com). HI hostels typically require that you be a member or else pay a bit more per night
The Italians are masters of the art of fine living. That means eating long and well. Lengthy, multicourse meals and endless hours sitting in outdoor cafés are the norm. Americans eat on their way to an evening event and complain if the check is slow in coming. For Italians, the meal is an end in itself, and only rude servers rush you.
A highlight of your Italian adventure will be this country’s cafés, cuisine, and wines. Trust me: This is sightseeing for your palate. Even if you liked dorm food and are sleeping in cheap hotels, your taste buds will relish an occasional first-class splurge. You can eat well without going broke. But be careful: You’re just as likely to blow a small fortune on a disappointing meal as you are to dine wonderfully for €25. Rely on my recommendations in the various Eating sections throughout this book.
In general, Italians eat meals a bit later than we do. At 7:00 or 8:00, they have a light breakfast (coffee—usually cappuccino or espresso—and a pastry, often standing up at a café). For lunch (between 13:00 and 15:00), Italians grab a quick meal in a tavola calda bar (cafeteria) or buy a panino or tramezzino (sandwich). They eat a late dinner around 20:00-21:30 (maybe earlier in winter). To bridge the gap, people drop into a bar in the late afternoon for a spuntino (snack) and aperitif.
I’ve categorized my recommended eateries based on the average price of a typical main course, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Obviously, expensive specialties, fine wine, appetizers, and dessert can significantly increase your final bill.
The categories also indicate the personality of a place: Budget eateries include street food, takeaway, order-at-the-counter shops, basic cafeterias, and bakeries selling sandwiches. Moderate eateries are nice (but not fancy) sit-down restaurants, ideal for a straightforward, fill-the-tank meal. Most of my listings fall in this category—great for tasting local cuisine at a reasonable price.
Pricier eateries are a notch up, with more attention paid to the setting, presentation, and (often inventive) cuisine. Splurge eateries are dress-up-for-a-special-occasion swanky—typically with an elegant setting, polished service, pricey and intricate cuisine, and an expansive (and expensive) wine list.
Italian breakfasts, like Italian bath towels, can be small: The basic, traditional version is coffee and a roll with butter and marmalade. Many places have yogurt and juice (the delicious red orange juice—spremuta d’arancia rossa—is made from Sicilian blood oranges), and possibly also cereal, cold cuts and sliced cheese, and eggs (typically hard-boiled; scrambled or fried eggs are less common). Small budget hotels may leave a basic breakfast in your room (stale croissant, roll, jam, yogurt, coffee).
If you want to skip your hotel breakfast, consider browsing for a morning picnic at a local open-air market. Or do as the Italians do: Step into a bar or café to drink a cappuccino and munch a cornetto (croissant) while standing at the bar. While the cornetto is the most common pastry, you’ll find a range of pasticcini (pastries, sometimes called dolci—sweets). Look for otto (an 8-shaped pastry, often filled with custard, jam, or chocolate), sfoglia (filo-dough crust that’s fruit-filled, like a turnover), or ciambella (doughnut filled with custard or chocolate)—or ask about local specialties.
While ristorante is self-explanatory, you’ll also see other types of Italian eateries. A trattoria and an osteria (which can be more casual) are both generally family-owned places serving home-cooked meals, often at moderate prices. A locanda is an inn, a cantina is a wine cellar, and a birreria is a brewpub. Pizzerie, rosticcerie (delis), tavola calda (“hot table”) bars, enoteche (wine bars), and other alternatives are explained later.
I look for restaurants that are convenient to your hotel and sightseeing. When restaurant-hunting, choose a spot filled with locals, not the place with the big neon signs boasting, “We speak English and accept credit cards.” Restaurants parked on famous squares generally serve bad food at high prices to tourists. Venturing even a block or two off the main drag leads to higher-quality food for less than half the price of the tourist-oriented places. Locals eat better at lower-rent locales. Family-run places operate without hired help and can offer cheaper meals.
Most restaurant kitchens close between their lunch and dinner service. Good restaurants don’t reopen for dinner before 19:00. If you arrive at opening time, most restaurants will be empty and available—the main push of customers arrives later. Small restaurants with a full slate of reservations for 20:30 or 21:00 often will accommodate walk-in diners willing to eat a quick, early meal, but you aren’t expected to linger.
When you want the bill, mime-scribble on your raised palm or request it: “Il conto, per favore.” You may have to ask more than once. If you’re in a hurry, request the check when you receive the last item you order.
Avoid surprises when eating out by familiarizing yourself with two common Italian restaurant charges: coperto and servizio. You won’t encounter them in all restaurants, but both charges, if assessed, by law must be listed on the menu.
The coperto (cover), sometimes called pane e coperto (bread and cover), is a minor fee (€1.50-3/person) covering the cost of the typical basket of bread, oil, salt, cutlery, and linens found on your table. It’s not negotiable, even if you don’t eat the bread. And it’s not a tip (it goes to the owner)—think of it as entitling you to use the table for as long as you like.
The servizio (a 10- to 15-percent service charge) is similar to the mandatory gratuity that American restaurants often add for groups of six or more. You can consider it a “tourist tax,” as you’re most likely to encounter it in locations with lots of tourists. Because the service charge is sometimes built into your bill, look carefully at your check to see if you’ve already paid a tip—don’t leave any tip beyond this.
If there is no servizio on the bill, a common tip at a simple restaurant or pizzeria is €1 per person at the table (or simply round up the bill). At a finer restaurant, leave a few euros per person. Don’t leave the tip on the table; hand it directly to the server to make sure he or she receives it. Be prepared to tip with cash/coins, as credit/debit card receipts won’t have a tip line as in the US.
A full Italian meal consists of multiple courses (all described below). For most travelers, it’s simply too much food—and the euros can add up in a hurry. To avoid overeating (and to stretch your budget), share dishes. A good rule of thumb is for each person to order any two courses. For example, a couple can order and share one antipasto, one primo, one secondo, and one dessert; or two antipasti and two primi; or whatever combination appeals.
Small groups can mix antipasti and primi family-style (skipping secondi). If you do this right, you can eat well in better places for less than the cost of a tourist menù in a cheap place.
Some touristy restaurants serve a piatto unico, with smaller portions of each course on one dish (for instance, a meat, starch, and vegetable).
Antipasto: An appetizer such as bruschetta, grilled veggies, deep-fried tasties, thin-sliced meat (prosciutto or carpaccio), or a plate of olives, cold cuts, and cheeses. To get a sampler plate of cold cuts and cheeses in a restaurant, ask for affettato misto (mixed cold cuts), antipasto misto (cold cuts, cheeses, and marinated vegetables), or tagliere (a sampler “board”). This could make a light meal in itself.
Primo piatto: A “first dish” generally consisting of pasta but also rice or soup. If you think of pasta when you think of Italian food, you can dine well here without ever going beyond the primo.
Secondo piatto: A “second dish,” equivalent to our main course, of meat or fish/seafood. Italians freely admit the secondo is the least interesting part of their cuisine.
Contorno: A vegetable side dish may come with the secondo but more often must be ordered separately. Typical contorni are insalata mista, spinach, roasted potatoes, or grilled veggies. This can be an interesting, if overlooked, part of the menu. Vegetarians can skip the secondo and order several contorni to make a meal.
Dolce: No meal is complete without a sweet. On most menus you’ll find typical Italian desserts such as tiramisu and panna cotta as well as local favorites.
Seafood and steak may be sold by weight and priced by the etto (100 grams, 3.5 ounces) or the kilo (1,000 grams, 2.2 pounds). The abbreviation s.q. (secondo quantità) indicates an item is priced by weight (often used at antipasto buffets). Unless the menu indicates a fillet (filetto), fish is usually served whole with the head and tail. However, you can always ask your server to select a small fish and fillet it for you. Sometimes, especially for steak, restaurants require a minimum order of four or five etti (which diners can share). Make sure you’re clear on the price before ordering.
Some special dishes come in larger quantities meant to be shared by two people. The shorthand way of showing this on a menu is “X2” (for two), but the price listed could indicate the cost per person.
In a traditional restaurant, if you order a pasta dish and a side salad—but no main course—the server will bring the salad after the pasta (Italians prefer it this way, believing that it enhances digestion). If you want the salad with your pasta, specify insieme (een-see-EH-meh; together).
Because pasta and bread are both starches, Italians consider them redundant. If you order only a pasta dish, bread may not come with it; you can request it, but you may be charged extra. On the other hand, if you order a vegetable antipasto or a meat secondo, bread is often provided to balance the ingredients.
At places with counter service—such as at a bar or a freeway rest-stop diner—you’ll order and pay at the cassa (cashier). Take your receipt to the counter to claim your food.
You can save by getting a fixed-priced meal. Avoid the cheapest ones (often called a menù turistico). Look instead for a genuine menù del giorno (menu of the day), which offers diners a choice of appetizer, main course, and dessert. It’s worth paying a little more for an inventive fixed-price meal that shows off the chef’s creativity. They’re also frequently exempt from cover and service changes.
While fixed-price meals can be easy and convenient, galloping gourmets prefer to order à la carte with the help of a menu translator. When going to an especially good restaurant with an approachable staff, I like to find out what they’re eager to serve. Sometimes I’ll simply say, “Mi faccia felice” (Make me happy) and set a price limit.
Italy offers many budget options for hungry travelers.
Self-service cafeterias offer the basics without add-on charges. Travelers on a hard-core budget equip their room with a pantry stocked at the market (fruits and veggies are remarkably cheap), or pick up a sandwich or döner kebab, then dine in at picnic prices. Bars and cafés are also good places to grab a meal on the go.
Pizza is cheap and readily available. Stop by a pizza shop for stand-up or takeout (many pizza places sell whole pies meant for one person; pizza al taglio means “by the slice”). Supermarkets usually have a pizza counter too.
Some shops feature pizza rustica—thick pizza baked in a large rectangular pan and sold by weight. If you simply ask for a piece, you may wind up with a gigantic slab and be charged top euro. Instead, clearly indicate how much you want: 100 grams, or un etto, is a hot and cheap snack; 200 grams, or due etti, makes a light meal. Or show the size with your hands—tanto così (TAHN-toh koh-ZEE; this much). They’ll often helpfully cut it up into smaller pieces. If you want your pizza warm, say “si” when they ask if you want it heated up (riscaldare; ree-skahl-DAH-ray). For a rundown of common types of pizza, see that section, later. Pizzerias also sell cecina, a savory crêpe-like garbanzo-bean flatbread—a cheap snack that pairs well with a glass of red wine.
Italian “bars” are not taverns, but inexpensive cafés. These neighborhood hangouts serve coffee, mini pizzas (pizzette), sandwiches, and drinks from the cooler. This budget choice is the Italian equivalent of English pub grub.
Many bars are small—if you can’t find a table, you’ll need to stand or find a ledge to sit on outside. Most charge extra for table service. To get food to go, say, “da portar via” (for the road). All bars have a WC (toilette, bagno) in the back, and customers—and the discreet public—can use it.
Food: For quick meals, bars usually have trays of cheap, premade sandwiches (panini, on a baguette; piadine, on flatbread; or tramezzini, on crustless white bread)—some are delightful grilled. (Others have too much mayo.) In bigger cities, they’ll have a variety of salads ready to serve up from under the glass counter. To save time for sightseeing and room for dinner, stop by a bar for a light lunch, such as a ham-and-cheese sandwich (called toast); have it grilled twice if you want it really hot.
Prices and Paying: You’ll notice a two- or three-tiered pricing system. Drinking a cup of coffee while standing at the bar is cheaper than drinking it at an indoor table (you’ll pay still more at an outdoor table). Many places have a lista dei prezzi (price list) with two columns—al bar and al tavolo (table)—posted somewhere by the bar or cash register. If you’re on a budget, don’t sit down without first checking out the financial consequences. Ask, “Same price if I sit or stand?” by saying, “Costa uguale al tavolo o al banco?” (KOH-stah oo-GWAH-lay ahl TAH-voh-loh oh ahl BAHN-koh). Throughout Italy, you can get cheap coffee at the bar of any establishment, no matter how fancy, and pay the same low, government-regulated price (generally about a euro if you stand).
If the bar isn’t busy, you can probably just order and pay when you leave. Otherwise: 1) Decide what you want; 2) find out the price by checking the price list on the wall, the prices posted near the food, or by asking the barista; 3) pay the cashier; and 4) give the receipt to the barista (whose clean fingers handle no dirty euros) and tell him or her what you want.
For a fast and cheap lunch, find an Italian variation on the corner deli: a rosticceria (specializing in roasted meats and accompanying antipasti) or a tavola calda bar (a “hot table” point-and-shoot cafeteria with a buffet spread of meat and vegetables; sometimes called tavola fredda, or “cold table,” in the north of Italy). For a healthy light meal, ask for a mixed plate of vegetables with a hunk of mozzarella (piatto misto di verdure con mozzarella; pee-AH-toh MEE-stoh dee vehr-DOO-ray). Don’t be limited by what’s displayed. If you’d like a salad with a slice of cantaloupe and a hunk of cheese, they’ll whip that up for you in a snap. Belly up to the bar; with a pointing finger, you can assemble a fine meal. If something’s a mystery, ask for un assaggio (oon ah-SAH-joh) to get a little taste. To have your choices warmed up, ask for them to be heated (riscaldare; ree-skahl-DAH-ray).
Wine bars (enoteche) are a popular, fast, and inexpensive option for lunch. Surrounded by the office crowd, you can get a salad, a plate of meats (cold cuts) and cheeses, and a glass of good wine (see blackboards for the day’s selection and price per glass). A good enoteca aims to impress visitors with its wine, and will generally feature excellent-quality ingredients for the simple dishes it offers with the wine (though the prices add up—be careful with your ordering to keep this a budget choice). For more on Italian cocktails and wines, see the “Beverages” section, later.
The Italian term aperitivo means a predinner drink, but it’s also used to describe their version of what we might call happy hour: a light buffet that many bars serve to customers during the predinner hours (typically around 18:00 or 19:00 until 21:00). The drink itself may not be cheap (typically around €8-12), but bars lay out an enticing array of meats, cheeses, grilled vegetables, and other antipasti-type dishes, and you’re welcome to nibble to your heart’s content while you nurse your drink. While it’s intended as an appetizer course before heading out for a full dinner, light eaters could discreetly turn this into a small meal. Bars advertising “apericena” (cena means dinner) tend to have buffets hearty enough to pass as dinner. Drop by a few bars around this time to scope out their buffets before choosing.
Picnicking saves lots of euros and is a great way to sample regional specialties. A picnic can even be an adventure in high cuisine. Be daring. Try the fresh ricotta, presto pesto, shriveled olives, and any regional specialties the locals are excited about.
Markets: For the most colorful experience, gather your ingredients in the morning at a produce market. Towns big and small have markets selling everything imaginable for a fantastic picnic, including cheese, meat, bread, sweets, and prepared foods. You’ll often find street-food stalls tucked into the marketplace as well (note that many stalls close in the early afternoon).
Groceries and Delis: Another budget option is to visit a supermarket (look for the Conad, Carrefour, and Co-op chains), alimentari (neighborhood grocery), or salumeria (delicatessen) to pick up cold cuts, cheeses, and other picnic supplies. Some grocery stores, salumerie, and any paninoteca or focacceria (sandwich shop) can make a sandwich to order. Just point to what you want, and they’ll stuff it into a panino. Almost every grocery store has a deli case with prepared items like stuffed peppers, lasagna, olives, or chicken, all usually sold by weight; if you want it reheated, remember the word riscaldare (ree-skahl-DAH-ray). And rosticcerie sell cheap food to go—you’ll find options such as lasagna, rotisserie chicken, and sides including roasted potatoes and spinach. For more on salumi and cheeses, see those sections, later.
Ordering: A typical picnic for two might be fresh rolls, un etto (3.5 ounces) of cheese, and un etto of meat (sometimes ordered by the slice—fetta—or piece—pezzo). For two people, I might get un etto of prosciutto and due pezzi of bread. Add two tomatoes, three carrots, two apples, yogurt, and a liter box of juice. Total: about €10.
If ordering antipasti (such as grilled or marinated veggies) at a deli counter, you can ask for una porzione in a takeaway container (contenitore). Use gestures to show exactly how much you want. To set a price limit of 5 or 10 euros on what you order, say “Da [cinque/dieci] euro, per favore.” The word basta (BAH-stah; enough) works as a question or as a statement.
Shopkeepers are happy to sell small quantities of produce, but it’s customary to let the merchant choose for you. Say “per oggi” (pehr OH-jee; for today) and he or she will grab you something ready to eat. To avoid being overcharged, know the cost per kilo, study the weighing procedure, and do the arithmetic. Remember that a kilo is 2.2 pounds.
Much of your Italian eating experience will likely involve the big five: pizza, pasta, salumi, cheese, and gelato. Here’s a rundown on what you might find on menus and in stores. I’ve included specifics on regional cuisine throughout this book. For more food help, try a menu translator, such as the Rick Steves Italian Phrase Book & Dictionary, which has a menu decoder and plenty of useful phrases for navigating the culinary scene.
Here are some of the pizzas you might see at restaurants or at a pizzeria. Note that if you ask for pepperoni on your pizza, you’ll get peperoni (green or red peppers, not sausage); request diavola, salsiccia piccante, or salame piccante instead (the closest thing in Italy to American pepperoni).
Bianca: White pizza with no tomatoes
Capricciosa: Prosciutto, mushrooms, olives, and artichokes—literally the chef’s “caprice”
Funghi: Mushrooms
Margherita: Tomato sauce, mozzarella, and basil—the red, white, and green of the Italian flag
Marinara: Tomato sauce, oregano, garlic, no cheese
Napoletana: Mozzarella, anchovies, and tomato sauce
Ortolana or vegetariana: “Greengrocer-style,” with vegetables
Quattro formaggi: Four different cheeses
Quattro stagioni: Different toppings on each of the four quarters
Italian cooks love to serve fresh produce and seafood at its tastiest. Each region in Italy has its seasonal specialties, which you’ll see displayed in open-air markets. To get a plate of the freshest veggies at a fine restaurant, request “Un piatto di verdure della stagione, per favore.” (“A plate of seasonal vegetables, please.”) Italians take fresh, seasonal ingredients so seriously that a restaurant cooking with frozen ingredients (congelato) must note it on the menu. Here are a few examples of what’s fresh when:
April-May: Calamari (Venice), romanesco (similar to cauliflower), fava beans (Rome), green beans, artichokes
April-May and Sept-Oct: Black truffles
April-June: Asparagus, zucchini flowers, zucchini
May-June: Mussels, cantaloupe, loquats, strawberries
May-Aug: Eggplant, clams
July-Sept: Figs
Oct-Nov: Mushrooms, white truffles, persimmons, chestnuts
Nov-Feb: Radicchio (Venice), cardoon (wild artichoke), puntarelle (chicory shoots; Rome)
While we think of pasta as a main dish, in Italy it’s considered a primo piatto—first course. There are more than 600 varieties of Italian pasta, and each is specifically used to highlight a certain sauce, meat, or regional ingredient. Most pastas in Italy are made fresh.
Italian pasta falls into two broad categories: pasta lunga (long pasta) and pasta corta (short pasta).
Pasta lunga can be round, such as capellini (thin “little hairs”), vermicelli (“little worms”), and bucatini (long and hollow), or it can be flat, such as linguine (narrow “little tongues”), fettuccine (wider “small ribbons”), tagliatelle (even wider), and pappardelle (very wide, best with meat sauces).
The most common pasta corta are tubes, such as penne, rigatoni, ziti, manicotti, and cannelloni; they come either lisce (smooth) or rigate (grooved—better to catch and cling to sauce). Many short pastas are named for their shapes, such as conchiglie (shells), farfalle (butterflies), or cavatappi (corkscrews).
Here’s a list of common pasta toppings and sauces. On a menu, these terms are usually preceded by alla (in the style of) or in (in):
Aglio e olio: Garlic and olive oil
Alfredo: Butter, cream, and parmesan
Amatriciana: Pork cheek, pecorino romano cheese, and tomato
Arrabbiata: “Angry,” spicy tomato sauce with chili peppers
Bolognese: Meat and tomato sauce
Boscaiola: Mushrooms and sausage
Burro e salvia: Butter and sage
Cacio e pepe: Pecorino romano cheese and ground pepper
Carbonara: Bacon, egg, cheese, and pepper
Carrettiera: Spicy and garlicky, with olive oil and little tomatoes
Diavola: “Devil-style,” spicy hot
Frutti di mare: Seafood
Genovese: Basil ground with parmigiano cheese, garlic, pine nuts, and olive oil; a.k.a. pesto
Gricia: Cured pork cheek and pecorino romano cheese
Marinara: Usually tomato, often with garlic and onions, but can also be a seafood sauce (“sailor’s style”)
Norma: Tomato, eggplant, and ricotta cheese
Pajata: Calf intestines (also called pagliata)
Pescatora: Seafood (“fisherman style”)
Pomodoro: Tomato only
Puttanesca: Tomato sauce with anchovies, olives, and capers
Ragù: Meaty tomato sauce
Scoglio: Mussels, clams, and tomatoes
Sorrentina: “Sorrento-style,” with tomatoes, basil, and mozzarella (usually over gnocchi)
Sugo di lepre: Rich sauce made of wild hare
Tartufi: Truffles (also called tartufate)
Umbria: Sauce of anchovies, garlic, tomatoes, and truffles
Vongole: Clams and spices
Salumi (cured meats), also called affettati (sliced meats), are an Italian staple. While most American cold cuts are cooked, in Italy they’re far more commonly cured by air-drying, salting, and smoking. (Don’t worry; these so-called “raw” meats are safe to eat, and you can really taste the difference.)
The two most familiar types of salumi are salame and prosciutto. Salame is an air-dried, sometimes-spicy sausage that comes in many varieties. When Italians say “prosciutto,” they usually mean prosciutto crudo—the raw ham that air-cures on the hock and is then thinly sliced. Produced mainly in the north of Italy, prosciutto can be either dolce (sweet) or salato (salty). Purists say the best is prosciutto di Parma.
Other salumi may be less familiar. If you’ve got a weak stomach, avoid testa in cassetta (headcheese—organs in aspic) and lampredotto (cow stomach).
Bresaola: Air-cured beef
Capocollo: Peppery pork shoulder (also called coppa)
Culatello: High-quality, slow-cured prosciutto
Finocchiona: Salame with fennel seeds
Guanciale: Tender pork cheek
Lonzino: Cured pork loin
Mortadella: A finely ground pork loaf, similar to our bologna
Pancetta: Salt-cured, peppery pork-belly meat, similar to bacon
Salame di Sant’Olcese: What we’d call “Genoa salami”
Salame piccante: Spicy hot, similar to pepperoni
Speck: Smoked pork shoulder
When it comes to cheese (formaggio), you’re probably already familiar with most of these Italian favorites:
Asiago: Hard cow cheese that comes either mezzano (young, firm, and creamy) or stravecchio (aged, pungent, and granular)
Burrata: A creamy mozzarella
Fontina: Semihard, nutty, Gruyère-style mountain cheese
Gorgonzola: Pungent, blue-veined cheese, either dolce (creamy) or stagionato (aged and hard)
Mascarpone: Sweet, buttery, spreadable dessert cheese
Mozzarella di bufala: Made from the milk of water buffaloes
Parmigiano-reggiano: Hard, crumbly, sharp, aged cow cheese with more nuanced flavor than American parmesan; grana padano is a less expensive variation
Pecorino: Either fresco (fresh, soft, and mild) or stagionato (aged and sharp, sometimes called pecorino romano)
Provolone: Rich, firm, aged cow cheese
Ricotta: Soft, airy cheese made by “recooking” leftover whey
Scamorza: Similar to mozzarella, but often smoked
American ice cream and Italian gelato are similar but decidedly not the same. Gelato is denser and creamier (even though it has less butterfat than ice cream), and connoisseurs swear it’s more flavorful.
A key to gelato appreciation is sampling liberally and choosing flavors that go well together. At a gelateria, ask, as Italians do, for a taste: “Un assaggio, per favore?” (oon ah-SAH-joh pehr fah-VOH-ray). You can also ask what flavors go well together: “Quali gusti stanno bene insieme?” (KWAH-lee GOO-stee STAH-noh BEH-nay een-see-EH-may).
Most gelaterie clearly display prices and sizes. But in the textbook gelateria scam, the tourist orders two or three flavors—and the clerk selects a fancy, expensive chocolate-coated waffle cone, piles it high with huge scoops, and cheerfully charges the tourist €10. To avoid rip-offs, point to the price or say what you want—for instance, a €3 cup: “Una coppetta da tre euro” (OO-nah koh-PEH-tah dah tray eh-OO-roh).
The best gelaterie display signs reading artigianale, nostra produzione, or produzione propria, indicating that the gelato is made on the premises. Seasonal flavors are also a good sign, as are mellow hues (avoid colors that don’t appear in nature). Gelato stored in covered metal tins (rather than white plastic) is more likely to be homemade. Gourmet gelato shops are popping up all over Italy, selling exotic flavors. Unless it’s a gelato emergency, avoid the chain called Grom—it’s the Starbucks of gelato in Italy.
Gelato variations or alternatives include sorbetto (sorbet—made with fruit, but no milk or eggs); granita or grattachecca (a cup of slushy ice with flavored syrup); and cremolata (a gelato-granita float).
Classic gelato flavors include:
After Eight: Chocolate and mint
Bacio: Chocolate hazelnut, named for Italy’s popular “kiss” candies
Cassata: With dried fruits
Cioccolato: Chocolate
Crema: Vanilla
Croccantino: “Crunchy,” with toasted peanut bits
Fior di latte: Sweet milk
Fragola: Strawberry
Macedonia: Mixed fruits
Malaga: Similar to rum raisin
Riso: With actual bits of rice mixed in
Stracciatella: Vanilla with chocolate shreds
Tartufo: Super chocolate
Zabaione: Named for the egg yolk-and-Marsala wine dessert
Zuppa inglese: Sponge cake, custard, chocolate, and cream
Italian bars serve great drinks—hot, cold, sweet, caffeinated, or alcoholic.
Italians are notorious water snobs. At restaurants, your server just can’t understand why you wouldn’t want good water to go with your good food. It’s customary and never expensive to order a litro or mezzo litro (half-liter) of bottled water. Acqua leggermente effervescente (lightly carbonated water) is a mealtime favorite. Or simply ask for con gas if you want fizzy water and senza gas if you prefer still water. You can ask for acqua del rubinetto (tap water) in restaurants, but your server may give you a funny look. Chilled bottled water—still (naturale) or carbonated (frizzante)—is sold cheap in stores. Half-liter bottles of mineral water are available everywhere for about €1. (I refill my water bottle with tap water.)
Juice is succo, and spremuta means freshly squeezed. Order una spremuta (don’t confuse it with spumante, sparkling wine)—it’s usually orange juice (arancia), and from February through April it’s almost always made from Sicilian blood oranges (arance rosse).
In grocery stores, you can get a liter of O.J. for the price of a Coke or coffee. Look for 100% succo or senza zucchero (without sugar) on the label—or be surprised by something diluted and sugary sweet. Hang on to your water bottles. Buy juice in cheap liter boxes, then drink some and store the extra in your water bottle.
Tè freddo (iced tea) is usually from a can—sweetened and flavored with lemon or peach. Lemonade is limonata.
The espresso-based style of coffee so popular in the US was born in Italy. If you ask for “un caffè,” you’ll get a shot of espresso in a little cup—the closest thing to American-style drip coffee is a caffè americano. Most Italian coffee drinks begin with espresso, to which they add varying amounts of hot water and/or steamed or foamed milk. Milky drinks, like cappuccino or caffè latte, are served to locals before noon and to tourists any time of day (to an Italian, cappuccino is a morning drink; they believe having milk after a big meal or anything with tomato sauce impairs digestion). If they add any milk after lunch, it’s just a splash, in a caffè macchiato. Italians like their coffee only warm—to get it very hot, request “Molto caldo, per favore” (MOHL-toh KAHL-doh pehr fah-VOH-ray). Any coffee drink is available decaffeinated—ask for it decaffeinato (deh-kah-feh-NAH-toh).
If you want a hot drink other than coffee, cioccolato is hot chocolate, and tè is hot tea.
Cappuccino: Espresso with foamed milk on top (cappuccino freddo is iced cappuccino)
Caffè latte: Espresso mixed with hot milk, no foam, in a tall glass (ordering just a “latte” gets you only milk)
Caffè macchiato: Espresso “marked” with a splash of milk, in a small cup
Latte macchiato: Layers of hot milk and foam, “marked” by an espresso shot, in a tall glass. Note that if you order simply a “macchiato,” you’ll probably get a caffè macchiato.
Caffè corto/lungo: Concentrated espresso diluted with a tiny bit of hot water, in a small cup
Caffè americano: Espresso diluted with even more hot water, in a larger cup
Caffè corretto: Espresso “corrected” with a shot of liqueur (normally grappa, amaro, or sambuca)
Marocchino: “Moroccan” coffee with espresso, foamed milk, and cocoa powder; the similar mocaccino has chocolate instead of cocoa
Caffè freddo: Sweet and iced espresso
Caffè hag: Instant decaf
Beer: While Italy is traditionally considered wine country, in recent years there’s been a huge and passionate growth in the production of craft beer (birra artigianale). Even in small towns, you’ll see microbreweries slinging their own brews. You’ll also find local brews (Peroni and Moretti), as well as imports such as Heineken. Italians drink mainly lager beers. Beer on tap is alla spina. Get it piccola (33 cl, 11 oz), media (50 cl, about a pint), or grande (a liter). A lattina (lah-TEE-nah) is a can and a bottiglia (boh-TEEL-yah) is a bottle.
Cocktails and Spirits: Italians appreciate both aperitivi (palate-stimulating cocktails) and digestivi (after-dinner drinks designed to aid digestion). Popular aperitivo options include Campari (carmine-red bitters with herbs and orange peel), Americano (vermouth with bitters, brandy, and lemon peel), Cynar (bitters flavored with artichoke), Aperol (bright orange bitters with herbal, citrusy undertones) and Punt e Mes (sweet red vermouth and red wine). Widely used vermouth brands include Cinzano and Martini.
Digestivo choices are usually either strong herbal bitters or something sweet. Many restaurants have their own secret recipe for a bittersweet herbal brew called amaro; popular commercial brands are Fernet Branca and Montenegro. If your tastes run sweeter, try any of these flavored liqueurs: amaretto (almond), Frangelico (hazelnut), limoncello (lemon), nocino (walnut), sambuca (anise), or a sweet Marsala wine. Grappa is a brandy distilled from grape skins and stems; stravecchio is an aged, mellower variation.
Wine: The ancient Greeks who colonized Italy more than 2,000 years ago called it Oenotria—land of the grape. Centuries later, Galileo wrote, “Wine is light held together by water.” Wine (vino) is certainly a part of the Italian culinary trinity—grape, olive, and wheat. (I’d add gelato.) Ideal conditions for grapes (warm climate, well-draining soil, and an abundance of hillsides) make the Italian peninsula a paradise for grape growers, winemakers, and wine drinkers.
Even if you’re clueless about wine, the information on an Italian wine label can help you choose something decent. Terms you may see on the bottle include classico (from a defined, select area), annata (year of harvest), vendemmia (harvest), and imbottigliato dal produttore all’origine (bottled by producers).
In general, Italy designates its wines by one of four official categories:
Vino da Tavola (VDT) is table wine, the lowest grade, made from grapes grown anywhere in Italy. It’s often inexpensive, but Italy’s wines are so good that, for many people, a basic vino da tavola is just fine with a meal. Many restaurants, even modest ones, take pride in their house wine (vino della casa), bottling their own or working with wineries.
Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) meets national standards for high-quality wine. Made from grapes grown in a defined area, it’s usually quite affordable and good. Hundreds of wines have earned the DOC designation.
Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Guarantita (DOCG), the highest grade, meets national standards for the highest-quality wine (made with grapes from a defined area whose quality is “guaranteed”). These wines can be identified by the pink or green label on the neck...and the scary price tag on the shelf. They’re generally a good bet if you want a quality wine. (Riserva indicates a DOC or DOCG wine that’s been aged for even longer than required.)
Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) is a broad group of wines that don’t meet the standard for DOC or DOCG status, but have been designated as “typical” of a particular region.
One of the most common questions I hear from travelers is, “How can I stay connected in Europe?” The short answer is: more easily and cheaply than you might think.
The simplest solution is to bring your own device—mobile phone, tablet, or laptop—and use it just as you would at home (following the money-saving tips below, such as getting an international plan or connecting to free Wi-Fi whenever possible). Another option is to buy a European SIM card for your US mobile phone. Or you can use European landlines and computers to connect. Each of these options is described next, and more details are at RickSteves.com/phoning. For a very practical one-hour talk covering tech issues for travelers, see RickSteves.com/mobile-travel-skills.
Here are some budget tips and options.
Sign up for an international plan. To stay connected at a lower cost, sign up for an international service plan through your carrier. Most providers offer a simple bundle that includes calling, messaging, and data. Your normal plan may already include international coverage (T-Mobile’s does).
Before your trip, call your provider or check online to confirm that your phone will work in Europe, and research your provider’s international rates. Activate the plan a day or two before you leave, then remember to cancel it when your trip’s over.
Use free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Unless you have an unlimited-data plan, you’re best off saving most of your online tasks for Wi-Fi. You can access the internet, send texts, and even make voice calls over Wi-Fi.
Most accommodations in Europe offer free Wi-Fi, but some—especially expensive hotels—charge a fee. Many cafés have free hotspots for customers; look for signs offering it and ask for the Wi-Fi password when you buy something. You’ll also often find Wi-Fi at TIs, city squares, major museums, public-transit hubs, airports, and aboard trains and buses.
Minimize the use of your cellular network. The best way to make sure you’re not accidentally burning through data is to put your device in “airplane” mode (which also disables phone calls and texts), turn your Wi-Fi back on, and connect to networks as needed. When you need to get online but can’t find Wi-Fi, simply turn on your cellular network (or turn off airplane mode) just long enough for the task at hand.
Whether phoning from a US landline or mobile phone, or from a number in another European country, here’s how to make an international call. I’ve used one of my recommended Florence hotels as an example (tel. 055-213-154).
Initial Zero: Drop the initial zero from international phone numbers—except when calling Italy.
Mobile Tip: If using a mobile phone, the “+” sign can replace the international access code (for a “+” sign, press and hold “0”).
Dial 011 (US/Canada international access code), country code (39 for Italy), and phone number.
To call the Florence hotel from home, dial 011-39-055-213-154.
Dial 00 (Europe international access code), country code, and phone number.
To call the Florence hotel from Germany, dial 00-39-055-213-154.
Dial 00, country code (1 for US/Canada), and phone number.
To call from Europe to my office in Edmonds, Washington, dial 00-1-425-771-8303.
To call within Italy (from one Italian landline or mobile phone to another), simply dial the phone number, including the initial 0 if there is one.
To call the Florence hotel from Rome, dial 055-213-154.
Toll and Toll-Free Numbers: It’s generally not possible to dial Italian toll or toll-free numbers from a US mobile or landline (although you can sometimes get through using Skype). Look for a direct-dial number instead.
More Phoning Help: See www.howtocallabroad.com.
| European Country Codes | |
| Austria | 43 |
| Belgium | 32 |
| Bosnia-Herzegovina | 387 |
| Croatia | 385 |
| Czech Republic | 420 |
| Denmark | 45 |
| Estonia | 372 |
| Finland | 358 |
| France | 33 |
| Germany | 49 |
| Gibraltar | 350 |
| Great Britain | 44 |
| Greece | 30 |
| Hungary | 36 |
| Iceland | 354 |
| Ireland & N. Ireland | 353/44 |
| Italy | 39 |
| Latvia | 371 |
| Montenegro | 382 |
| Morocco | 212 |
| Netherlands | 31 |
| Norway | 47 |
| Poland | 48 |
| Portugal | 351 |
| Russia | 7 |
| Slovakia | 421 |
| Slovenia | 386 |
| Spain | 34 |
| Sweden | 46 |
| Switzerland | 41 |
| Turkey | 90 |
Even with an international data plan, wait until you’re on Wi-Fi to Skype, download apps, stream videos, or do other megabyte-greedy tasks. Using a navigation app such as Google Maps over a cellular network can take lots of data, so do this sparingly or offline.
Limit automatic updates. By default, your device constantly checks for a data connection and updates apps. It’s smart to disable these features so your apps will only update when you’re on Wi-Fi. Also change your device’s email settings from “auto-retrieve” to “manual” (or from “push” to “fetch”).
Use Wi-Fi calling and messaging apps. Skype, WhatsApp, FaceTime, and Google Hangouts are great for making free or low-cost calls or sending texts over Wi-Fi worldwide. Just log on to a Wi-Fi network, then connect with any of your friends or family members who use the same service. If you buy credit in advance, with some of these services you can call or text anywhere for just pennies.
Some apps, such as Apple’s iMessage, will use the cellular network for texts if Wi-Fi isn’t available: To avoid this possibility, turn off the “Send as SMS” feature.
Buy a European SIM Card. If you anticipate making a lot of local calls or need a local phone number, or if your provider’s international data rates are expensive, consider buying a SIM card in Europe to replace the one in your (unlocked) US phone or tablet.
In Italy, buy SIM cards at mobile-phone shops. You’ll be required to register the SIM card with your passport as an antiterrorism measure (which may mean you can’t use the phone for the first hour or two).
There are no roaming charges when using a European SIM card in other EU countries, though to be sure you get this “roam-like-at-home” pricing, ask if this feature is included when you buy your SIM card.
It’s less convenient but possible to travel in Europe without a mobile device. You can make calls from your hotel and check email or get online using public computers.
Most hotels charge a fee for placing calls—ask for rates before you dial. You can use a prepaid international phone card (carta telefonica prepagata internazionale—usually available at newsstands, tobacco shops, and train stations) to call out from your hotel. Dial the toll-free access number, enter the card’s PIN code, then dial the number. You’ll only see public pay phones in a few post offices and train stations. Most don’t take coins but instead require insertable phone cards, which you can buy at a newsstand, convenience store, or post office. Except for emergencies, they’re not worth the hassle.
Some hotels have public computers in their lobbies for guests to use; otherwise you may find them at public libraries (ask your hotelier or the TI for the nearest location). On a European keyboard, use the “Alt Gr” key to the right of the space bar to insert the extra symbol that appears on some keys. If you can’t locate a special character (such as @), simply copy and paste it from a web page.
You can mail one package per day to yourself worth up to $200 duty-free from Europe to the US (mark it “personal purchases”). If you’re sending a gift to someone, mark it “unsolicited gift.” For details, visit www.cbp.gov, select “Travel,” and search for “Know Before You Visit.” The Italian postal service works fine, but for quick transatlantic delivery (in either direction), consider services such as DHL (www.dhl.com).
Figuring out how to get around in Europe is one of your biggest trip decisions. Cars work well for two or more traveling together (especially families with small kids), those packing heavy, and those delving into the countryside. Trains and buses are best for solo travelers, blitz tourists, city-to-city travelers, and those who want to leave the driving to others. Smart travelers can use short-hop flights within Europe to creatively connect the dots on their itineraries. Just be aware of the potential downside of each option: A car is an expensive headache in any major city; with trains and buses you’re at the mercy of a timetable; and flying entails a trek to and from a usually distant airport.
If your itinerary mixes cities and countryside, my advice is to connect cities by train or bus and to explore rural areas by rental car. Arrange to pick up your car in the last big city you’ll visit, then use it to lace together small towns and explore the countryside. For more detailed information on transportation throughout Europe, see www.ricksteves.com/transportation.
To travel by train affordably within Italy, you can simply buy tickets as you go. For travelers ready to lock in dates and times weeks or months in advance, buying nonrefundable tickets online can cut costs in half. Note that the Italy rail pass is generally not a good value, but if your travel extends beyond Italy, there are multicountry rail passes that might be worth checking into. For advice on figuring out the smartest train-ticket or rail-pass options for your trip, visit the Trains & Rail Passes section of my website at RickSteves.com/rail.
Most trains in Italy are operated by the state-run Trenitalia company (www.trenitalia.com, a.k.a. Ferrovie dello Stato Italiane, abbreviated FS). Ticket prices depend on the speed of the train, so it helps to know the different types of trains: pokey Regionale (R or REG); medium-speed Regionale Veloce (RV); fast InterCity (IC) and EuroCity (EC); and super-fast Frecce trains. All Frecce trains, many EuroCity and InterCity trains, and most international trains require reservations.
Regional trains offer only open seating (no assigned seats); all other classes of service come with an assigned seat. If you’re traveling with a rail pass, you’ll need to reserve a seat for any service but regional trains (see “Rail Passes,” later).
The private train company Italo (www.italotreno.it) runs fast trains on major routes. It’s focused on two corridors: Venice-Padua-Bologna-Florence-Rome-Salerno and Turin-Milan-Bologna-Florence-Rome-Naples. They also run a useful Milan-Venice train. Italo has fewer departures than Trenitalia but its service is comparable to Trenitalia’s Frecce service, with similar prices and advance purchase discounts. Be aware that in Naples, Milan, and Rome, some departures use secondary stations. Italo does not accept rail passes, but is a worthy alternative for point-to-point tickets.
Both train companies have call centers for answering general questions (Trenitalia: daily 7:00-24:00, tel. 06-6847-5475; Italo: daily 6:00-23:00, tel. 06-8937-1892).
Be aware that Trenitalia and Italo don’t cooperate. If you buy a ticket for one train line, it’s not valid on the other. Both companies tend to ignore the other’s schedules.
Another private train company, Thello, runs night trains between Paris, Milan, and Venice and accepts Eurail passes with a seat reservation (www.thello.com).
Check schedules at Trenitalia.it and ItaloTreno.it (domestic journeys only) or use their smartphone apps; for international trips, use Bahn.com (Germany’s excellent all-Europe schedule website). At the train station, the easiest way to check schedules is at a ticket machine. Enter the desired date, time, and destination to see all your options. Printed schedules are also posted at the station (yellow posters show departures—partenze; white posters show arrivals).
Schedules list the time of departure (ora), the type of train (treni), and service classes offered (classi servizi)—first- and second-class cars, dining car, cuccetta berths, and whether you need reservations (usually denoted by an R in a box). The train’s destination (principali fermate destinazioni) is shown, along with intermediate stops, and notes such as “also stops in...” (ferma anche a...), “doesn’t stop in...” (non ferma a...), “stops in every station” (ferma in tutte le stazioni), “delayed...” (ritardo...), and so on.
Note that for today’s trains on the station reader boards, your destination may be listed as an intermediate stop. For example, if you’re going from Milan to Florence, scan the schedule and you’ll notice that virtually all the trains that terminate in Naples or Salerno stop in Florence en route (but most terminating in Rome do not). The reader board also lists the track (binario) the train departs from. If you’re not sure, confirm the binario with a ticket seller or railway official, or check monitors on the platform.
Train tickets are a good value in Italy. Typical fares are shown on the map on here, though ticket prices can vary for the same journey, mainly depending on the time of day, the speed of the train, and advance discounts.
Classes of Service: Frecce and Italo trains each offer several classes of service (e.g., Standard, Premium, Business, Executive) where all seats are reserved. Other trains offer standard first- and second-class seating (with first class costing up to 50 percent more than second). Buying up gives you a little more elbow room, a snack, or perhaps a better chance at seating a group together, if you’re buying on short notice.
Advance Discounts: Ticket price levels are Base (full fare, easily changeable or partly refundable before scheduled departure), Economy (one schedule change allowed before departure, for a fee), and Super Economy or Low Cost (sells out quickly, no refunds or exchanges). For example, traveling Standard class from Rome to Florence on the fastest train costs €50 at Base fare, €39 at Economy fare, or €28 at Super Economy rate. Discounted fares typically sell out several weeks before departure. Fares labeled servizi abbonati are available only for locals with monthly passes—not tourists. Regional trains don’t offer advance discounts or seat assignments, so there’s little need to buy those tickets in advance.
Speed vs. Savings: For point-to-point tickets, you’ll pay more the faster you go. Spending a modest amount of extra time in transit can save money. On longer, mainline routes, fast trains save more time and provide most of the service. For example, speedy Florence-Rome trains run about 3/hour, cost €50 in second class, and make the trip in 1.5 hours, while infrequent InterCity trains (only 1-2/day) cost €37 and take three hours.
Age-Based Discounts: Discounts for kids don’t usually beat the Super Economy rate described above. If the cheapest tickets are no longer available, look for deals like “Bimbi Gratis” and “Offerta Famiglia.” Other discounts for youths and seniors require purchase of a separate card (€40 Carta Verde for ages 12-26, €30 Carta Argento for ages 60 and over), but the ticket discount is so minor (10-15 percent respectively for domestic travel), it’s not worth it for most.
You can buy tickets online, with a smartphone app, at train station ticket windows, from ticket machines, or at travel agencies. For long-haul runs or travel on a busy weekend or holiday, it can be cheaper to buy tickets in advance. But because most Italian trains run frequently and there’s no deadline to buy tickets, for the most part I prefer to keep my travel plans flexible by purchasing tickets as I go. (You can buy tickets for several trips when you are ready to commit.)
It’s easy to buy tickets online at Trenitalia.com or ItaloTreno.it. On either website, choose English and be sure to read the pricing info, as many of the cheaper tickets are not refundable or changeable. You can keep the ticket on your mobile device (either as a PDF or in a “ticketless” format with a booking code), or you can print it out.
Or download the Trenitalia or Italo app to your smartphone—both have English versions. If using the Trenitalia app to buy tickets, do so as a guest (a log-in isn’t necessary—or possible—if you don’t live in Italy).
If you instead go to the train station to buy tickets, you can avoid ticket-office lines by using the ticket machines in station halls. You’ll be able to easily purchase tickets for travel within Italy, make seat reservations, and even book a cuccetta (koo-CHEH-tah; overnight berth). If you do use the ticket windows (e.g., to buy international tickets), be sure you’re in the correct line. Key terms: biglietti (general tickets), prenotazioni (reservations), nazionali (domestic), and internazionali.
Trenitalia’s ticket machines are user-friendly and found in all but the tiniest stations in Italy. You can pay with cash (change given when indicated) or by debit or credit card (even for small amounts, but you may need to enter your PIN). Select English, then your destination. If you don’t immediately see the city you’re traveling to, keep keying in the spelling until it’s listed. You can choose from first- and second-class seats, request tickets for more than one traveler, and pick seats, when applicable. Don’t select a discount rate without being sure that you meet the criteria (for example, Americans are not eligible for certain EU or resident discounts).
To buy tickets at the station for Italo trains, look for a dedicated service counter (in most major stations) or a red ticket machine labeled Italo.
Some international tickets can’t be bought online or from machines; for these tickets and anything else that requires a real person, you must go to a ticket window at the station. A good alternative, though, is to drop by a local travel agency. Agencies sell domestic and international tickets and make reservations. They charge a small fee, but the language barrier (and the lines) can be smaller than at the station’s ticket windows.
Will you be better off buying a rail pass or point-to-point tickets? It pays to know your options and choose what’s best for your itinerary.
A Eurail Italy Pass lets you travel by train in Italy for three to eight days (consecutively or not) within a one-month period. Italy is also covered (along with most of Europe) by the classic Eurail Global Pass.
Discounted rates are offered for seniors (age 60 and up) and youths (ages 12-27). Up to two kids (ages 4-11) can travel free with each adult-rate pass (but not with senior rates). All rail passes offer a choice of first or second class for all ages.
Rail passes are best purchased outside Europe (through travel agents or Rick Steves’ Europe). For more on rail passes, including current prices, visit RickSteves.com/rail.
Italian train tickets are relatively cheap, and most include seat reservations, making them the best deal for most travelers. Use this map to add up approximate pay-as-you-go fares for your itinerary, and compare that to the price of a rail pass plus reservations. Keep in mind that significant discounts on point-to-point tickets may be available with advance purchase.
Map shows approximate costs, in US dollars, for one-way, second-class tickets on faster trains.
The single-country Eurail Italy Pass may save you money if you take several long train rides or prefer first-class travel, but for most people it’s not a good value. Most train travelers in Italy take relatively short rides on the Milan-Venice-Florence-Rome circuit. For these trips, it can be cheaper to buy point-to-point tickets. Remember that rail passes are valid on Trenitalia trains but not on Italo trains.
Furthermore, a rail pass doesn’t offer much hop-on convenience in Italy, since even with a rail pass, seat reservations are required for InterCity, EuroCity, and Frecce trains (€5-10 each; make seat reservations at station ticket machines or windows). Most regional trains (such as Florence-Pisa-Cinque Terre service) don’t require (or offer) reservations. Reservations for berths on overnight trains cost extra and aren’t covered by rail passes.
If you’re also traveling by train in other countries, consider a Eurail Global Pass. Although it covers most of Europe, prices can work for trips as short as three travel days or as long as three months. For more info, see the sidebar.
Validating Tickets: If your ticket includes a seat reservation on a specific train (biglietto con prenotazione), you’re all set and can just get on board. The same is true for any ticket bought online or with the Trenitalia or Italo smartphone apps (whether open or reserved seating); these tickets are considered already validated.
An open ticket (generally for a regionale train) bought from a ticket desk or machine must be validated (date-stamped) before you board (the ticket may say da convalidare or convalida). To validate it, before getting on the train, stamp your ticket in the machine near the platform (usually marked convalida biglietti or vidimazione). Once you validate a ticket, you must complete your trip within the stamped timeframe (usually about four hours). If you forget to validate your ticket, go right away to the train conductor—before he comes to you—or you’ll pay a fine.
Getting a Seat: If you’re taking an unreserved regionale train that originates at your departure point (e.g., you’re catching the Florence-Pisa train in Florence), arriving at least 15 minutes before the departure time will help you snare a seat.
Baggage Storage: Many Italian stations have deposito bagagli where you can safely leave your bag for a standardized but steep price (€6/5 hours, €12/12 hours, €17/24 hours, payable when you pick up the bag, double-check closing hours; they may ask to photocopy your passport). Due to security concerns, no Italian stations have lockers.
Theft: In big cities, exercise caution and prudence at train stations to avoid thieves and con artists. If someone helps you to find your train or carry your bags, be aware that they are not an official porter; they are simply hoping for some cash. And if someone other than a uniformed railway employee tries to help you use the ticket machines, politely refuse.
Italian trains are famous for their thieves. Never leave a bag unattended. Police do ride the trains, cutting down on theft. Still, for an overnight trip, I’d feel safe only in a cuccetta (a bunk in a special sleeping car with an attendant who keeps track of who comes and goes while you sleep—approximately €40 or more).
Strikes: Strikes, which are common, generally last a day (often a Friday). Train employees will simply explain, “Sciopero” (SHOH-peh-roh, strike). But in actuality, a minimum amount of “essential” main-line service is maintained (by law) during strikes. When a strike is pending, travel agencies, savvy hoteliers, and remaining station personnel can check to see when the strike will go into effect and which trains will continue to run. Revised schedules may be posted online and in Italian at stations. See www.trenitalia.com, choose English, then “Information and Contacts,” and then “In Case of Strike.”
If your train is cancelled, your reserved-seat ticket will likely be accepted on any similar train running that day (either earlier or later than the original departure time) but you won’t have a seat assignment. Tickets for cancelled trains should also be exchangeable without penalty ahead of the original departure time, or can be refunded (have an agent mark it “unused,” and check refund deadlines). A rail pass works on any train still operating, but partially used rail passes can’t be refunded—so make full use of any pass you have to continue your trip.
You can usually get anywhere you want in Italy by bus, as long as you’re not in a hurry and plan ahead using bus schedules (pick up at local TIs or bus stations). For reaching small towns, buses are sometimes the only option if you don’t have a car. In many hill towns, trains leave you at a station in the valley far below, while buses more likely drop you right into the thick of things. (If the bus stop or station is below town, sometimes an escalator or elevator helps get you up into town.)
Long-distance buses are catching on in Italy as an alternative to the train. Buses are usually cheaper, more modern, and often have free Wi-Fi. They’re especially useful on routes poorly served by train. Some of the operators you’ll see are Megabus (www.megabus.com), Flixbus (http://global.flixbus.com), and Marozzi (www.marozzivt.it). In general, orange buses are local city buses, and blue buses are for long distances.
Larger towns have a (usually chaotic) long-distance bus station (stazione degli autobus), with ticket windows and several stalls (usually labeled corsia, stallo, or binario)—but to save time, buy your ticket at a travel agent or online, and print it out. Smaller towns—where buses are more useful—often have a central bus stop (fermata), likely along the main road or on the main square, and maybe several more scattered around town. In small towns, buy bus tickets at newsstands or tobacco shops (with the big T signs). When buying your ticket, confirm the departure point (“Dov’è la fermata?”).
Before boarding, confirm the destination with the driver. You are expected to stow big backpacks underneath the bus (open the luggage compartment yourself if it’s closed). Upon arrival, double-check that the posted schedule lists your next destination and departure time.
Traveling by bus on Sundays and holidays can be problematic; even from large cities, schedules are sparse, departing buses are jam-packed, and ticket offices are often closed. Plan ahead and buy your ticket in advance. Most travel agencies book bus (and train) tickets for a small fee.
Most Italian taxis are reliable and cheap. In many cities, two people can travel short distances by cab for little more than the cost of bus or subway tickets. If you like ride-booking services such as Uber, their apps usually work in Europe just like they do in the US: Request a car on your mobile phone (connected to Wi-Fi or data), and the fare is automatically charged to your credit card. In Italy, however, Uber faces legal challenges, and may not be consistently available (for instance, Uber does not operate in Florence).
It’s cheaper to arrange most car rentals from the US, so research and compare rates before you go. Most of the major US rental agencies (including Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and Thrifty) have offices throughout Europe. Also consider the two major Europe-based agencies, Europcar and Sixt. Consolidators such as Auto Europe (www.autoeurope.com—or the sometimes cheaper www.autoeurope.eu) compare rates at several companies to get you the best deal.
Wherever you book, always read the fine print. Check for add-on charges—such as one-way drop-off fees, airport surcharges, or mandatory insurance policies—that aren’t included in the “total price.”
Figure on paying roughly $250 for a one-week rental for a basic compact car. Allow extra for supplemental insurance, fuel, tolls, and parking. To save money on fuel, request a diesel car.
Manual vs. Automatic: Almost all rental cars in Europe are manual by default—and cars with a stick shift are generally cheaper. If you need an automatic, request one in advance. When selecting a car, don’t be tempted by a larger model, as it won’t be as maneuverable on narrow, winding roads or when squeezing into tight parking lots.
Age Restrictions: Some rental companies impose minimum and maximum age limits. Young drivers (25 and under) and seniors (69 and up) should check the rental policies and rules section of car-rental websites.
Choosing Pick-Up/Drop-off Locations: Always check the hours of the locations you choose: Many rental offices close from midday Saturday until Monday morning and, in smaller towns, at lunchtime. When selecting an office, plug the addresses into a mapping website to confirm the location. A downtown site is generally cheaper—and might seem more convenient than the airport. But pedestrianized and one-way streets can make navigation tricky when returning a car at a big-city office or urban train station. Wherever you select, get precise details on the location and allow ample time to find it. And be aware that most Italian cities have a “ZTL” (limited traffic zone) that’s carefully monitored by cameras. If your drop-off point is near this zone, get clear directions on how to get there to avoid getting a big fine.
Have the Right License: If you’re renting a car in Italy, bring your driver’s license. You’re also technically required to have an International Driving Permit—an official translation of your license (sold at AAA offices for about $20 plus the cost of two passport-type photos; see www.aaa.com). While that’s the letter of the law, I generally rent cars without having this permit. How this is enforced varies from country to country: Get advice from your car-rental company.
Picking Up Your Car: Before driving off in your rental car, check it thoroughly and make sure any damage is noted on your rental agreement. Rental agencies in Europe tend to charge for even minor damage, so be sure to mark everything. Find out how your car’s gearshift, lights, turn signals, wipers, radio, and fuel cap function, and know what kind of fuel the car takes (diesel vs. unleaded). When you return the car, make sure the agent verifies its condition with you. Some drivers take pictures of the returned vehicle as proof of its condition.
When you rent a car in Europe, the price typically includes liability insurance, which covers harm to other cars or motorists—but not the rental car itself. To limit your financial risk in case of damage to the rental, choose one of these options: Buy a Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) with a low or zero deductible from the car-rental company (roughly 30-40 percent extra), get coverage through your credit card (free, but more complicated), or get collision insurance as part of a larger travel-insurance policy.
Basic CDW costs $15–30 a day and typically comes with a $1,000-2,000 deductible, reducing but not eliminating your financial responsibility. When you reserve or pick up the car, you’ll be offered the chance to “buy down” the deductible to zero (for an additional $10–30/day; this is sometimes called “super CDW” or “zero-deductible coverage”).
In Italy, most car-rental companies’ rates automatically include CDW coverage. Even if you try to decline CDW when you reserve your car, you may find when you show up at the counter that you must buy it after all (along with mandatory theft insurance, about $15–20 a day).
If you opt for credit-card coverage, you must decline all coverage offered by the car-rental company—which means they can place a hold on your card for up to the full value of the car. In case of damage, it can be time-consuming to resolve the charges. Before relying on this option, quiz your card company about how it works.
For more on car-rental insurance, see RickSteves.com/cdw.
If you’ll be navigating using your phone or a GPS unit from home, remember to bring a car charger and device mount.
Your Mobile Phone: The mapping app on your mobile phone works fine for navigating Europe’s roads, but for real-time turn-by-turn directions and traffic updates, you’ll need mobile data access. And driving all day can burn through a lot of very expensive data. The economical work-around is to use map apps that work offline. By downloading in advance from Google Maps, City Maps 2Go, Apple Maps, Here WeGo, or Navmii, you can still have turn-by-turn voice directions and maps that recalibrate even though they’re offline.
You must download your maps before you go offline—and it’s smart to select large regions. Then turn off your data connection so you’re not charged for roaming. Call up the map, enter your destination, and you’re on your way. Even if you don’t have to pay extra for data roaming, this option is great for navigating in areas with poor connectivity.
GPS Devices: If you want the convenience of a dedicated GPS unit, consider renting one with your car ($10-30/day). These units offer real-time turn-by-turn directions and traffic without the data requirements of an app. The unit may come loaded only with maps for its home country; if you need additional maps, ask. Also make sure your device’s language is set to English before you drive off.
A less-expensive option is to bring a GPS device from home. Be sure to buy and install the maps you’ll need before your trip.
Paper Maps and Atlases: Even when navigating primarily with a mobile app or GPS, I always make it a point to have a paper map, ideally a big, detailed regional road map. It’s invaluable for getting the big picture, understanding alternate routes, and filling in if my phone runs out of juice. The free maps you get from your car-rental company usually don’t have enough detail. It’s smart to buy a better map before you go, or pick one up at a local gas station, bookshop, newsstand, or tourist shop.
Driving in Italy can be scary—a video game for keeps, and you only get one quarter. Locals drive fast and tailgate as if it were required. They pass where Americans are taught not to—on blind corners and just before tunnels. Roads have narrow shoulders or none at all. Driving in the countryside is less stressful than driving through urban areas or on busy highways, but stay alert. On one-lane roads, larger vehicles have the right-of-way.
Road Rules: Stay out of restricted traffic zones or you’ll risk huge fines. Car traffic is restricted in many city centers. Don’t drive or park in any area that has a sign reading Zona Traffico Limitato (ZTL, often shown above a red circle—see image). If you do, your license plate will likely be photographed and a hefty (€80-plus) ticket mailed to your home without your ever having met a cop. Bumbling in and out of these zones can net you multiple fines. If your hotel is within a restricted area, ask your hotelier to direct you to parking outside the zone. (Although your hotelier can register your car as an authorized vehicle permitted to enter the zone, this usually isn’t worth the hassle.) If you get a ticket, it could take months to show up (for more about traffic tickets in Italy, see www.bella-toscana.com/traffic_violations_italy.htm).
Be aware of typical European road rules; for example, many countries require headlights to be turned on at all times, and nearly all forbid handheld mobile-phone use. Seatbelts are mandatory, and children under age 12 must ride in child-safety or booster seats. In Europe, you’re not allowed to turn right on a red light unless a sign or signal specifically authorizes it, and on expressways it’s illegal to pass drivers on the right. Ask your car-rental company about these rules, or check the “International Travel” section of the US State Department website (www.travel.state.gov, search for your country in the “Learn about your destination” box, then click “Travel and Transportation”).
Drive Defensively: Italians are aggressive drivers. Turn signals are optional. If a driver is tailgating you on the highway, pull to the side to let them pass, even if that means driving on the shoulder. If you’re traveling in the right-hand lane on the highway, keep an eye out for slow-moving cars that appear out of nowhere. Also, if you brake quickly, it’s customary to put on your hazard lights to warn the driver behind you. All this is normal for locals, who may colorfully gesture at you. Don’t take it personally.
Motor scooters are very popular, and scooter drivers often see themselves as exempt from rules that apply to automobiles.
Tolls: You’ll pay tolls for some stretches of freeway (autostrada; for costs, use the trip-planning tool at www.autostrade.it or search “European Tolls” on www.theaa.com). When approaching a tollbooth, skip lanes marked Telepass; for an attended booth, choose a lane with a sign that shows a hand or coins.
While I favor freeways because I feel they’re safer and less nerve-racking than smaller roads, savvy local drivers know which toll-free superstrade are actually faster and more direct than the autostrada (e.g., Florence to Pisa). In some cases, if you have some time to spare, smaller roads can be worth the extra hassle.
Fuel: Fuel is expensive—often about $6.50 per gallon. Diesel cars are more common in Europe than back home, so be sure you know what type of fuel your car takes before you fill up. Diesel costs less, about $6 per gallon. Gas pumps are color-coded: green for unleaded (senza piombo); black for diesel (gasolio). You’ll also see the term benzina, which is standard fuel. If you are unsure or need help, stop for full-service gas (servito). To fill up, say “Pieno” (pee-EH-noh). Autostrada rest stops can have full- or self-service stations (open daily without a siesta break). Many 24-hour stations are entirely automated. Small-town stations are usually cheaper and offer full service but shorter hours.
Maps and Signage: Learn the universal road signs (see illustration). Although roads are numbered on maps, actual road signs give just a city name (for example, if you were heading west out of Venice, the map would be marked “route S-11”—but you’d follow signs to Padua, the next town along this road). Signs are inconsistent: They may direct you to the nearest big city or simply the next town along the route.
Theft: Cars are routinely vandalized and stolen. Thieves easily recognize rental cars and assume they are filled with a tourist’s gear. Be sure all of your valuables are out of sight and locked in the trunk, or even better, with you or in your room.
Parking: White lines generally mean parking is free. Yellow lines mean that parking is reserved for residents only (who have permits). Blue lines mean you’ll have to pay—usually around €1.50 per hour (use machine, leave time-stamped receipt on dashboard). Study the signs. Free zones often have a 30- or 60-minute time limit. Signs showing a street cleaner and a day of the week indicate which day the street is cleaned; there’s a €100 tow-fee incentive to learn the days of the week in Italian.
Zona disco has nothing to do with dancing. Italian cars come equipped with a time disc (a cardboard clock), which you can use in a zona disco—set the clock to your arrival time and leave it on the dashboard. (If your rental car doesn’t come with a disco, pick one up at a tobacco shop or just write your arrival time on a piece of paper and place it on the dashboard.) These are generally used in areas where parking is free but has a time limit.
Garages are safe, save time, and help you avoid the stress of parking tickets. Take the parking voucher with you to pay the cashier before you leave.
To compare flight costs and times, begin with an online travel search engine: Kayak is the top site for flights to and within Europe, easy-to-use Google Flights has price alerts, and Skyscanner includes many inexpensive flights within Europe. To avoid unpleasant surprises, before you book be sure to read the small print about refunds, changes, and the costs for “extras” such as reserving a seat, checking a bag, or printing a boarding pass.
Flights to Europe: Start looking for international flights about four to six months before your trip, especially for peak-season travel. Depending on your itinerary, it can be efficient and no more expensive to fly into one city and out of another. If your flight requires a connection in Europe, see my hints on navigating Europe’s top hub airports at RickSteves.com/hub-airports.
Flights Within Europe: Flying between European cities is surprisingly affordable. Before buying a long-distance train or bus ticket, check the cost of a flight on one of Europe’s airlines, whether a major carrier or a no-frills outfit like Easyjet or Ryanair. Be aware that flying with a discount airline can have drawbacks, such as minimal customer service and time-consuming treks to secondary airports.
Flying to the US and Canada: Because security is extra tight for flights to the US, be sure to give yourself plenty of time at the airport. Charge your electronic devices before you board in case security checks require you to turn them on (see www.tsa.gov for the latest rules).
My mobile-friendly website is the place to explore Europe in preparation for your trip. You’ll find thousands of fun articles, videos, and radio interviews; a wealth of money-saving tips for planning your dream trip; travel news dispatches; a video library of my travel talks; my travel blog; my latest guidebook updates (www.ricksteves.com/update); and my free Rick Steves Audio Europe app. You can also follow me on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.
Our Travel Forum is a well-groomed collection of message boards where our travel-savvy community answers questions and shares their personal travel experiences—and our well-traveled staff chimes in when they can be helpful (www.ricksteves.com/forums).
Our online Travel Store offers bags and accessories that I’ve designed to help you travel smarter and lighter. These include my popular carry-on bags (which I live out of four months a year), money belts, totes, toiletries kits, adapters, guidebooks, and planning maps (www.ricksteves.com/shop).
Our website can also help you find the perfect rail pass for your itinerary and your budget, with easy, one-stop shopping for rail passes, seat reservations, and point-to-point tickets (www.ricksteves.com/rail).
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Books: Rick Steves Italy is just one of many books in my series on European travel, which includes country and city guidebooks, Snapshots (excerpted chapters from bigger guides), Pocket guides (full-color little books on big cities), “Best Of” guidebooks (condensed, full-color country guides), and my budget-travel skills handbook, Rick Steves Europe Through the Back Door. A complete list of my titles—including phrase books; cruising guides; travelogues on European art, history, and culture; and more—appears near the end of this book.
TV Shows and Travel Talks: My public television series, Rick Steves’ Europe, covers Europe from top to bottom with over 100 half-hour episodes—and we’re working on new shows every year (watch full episodes at my website for free). My free online video library, Rick Steves Classroom Europe, offers a searchable database of short video clips on European history, culture, and geography (http://classroom.ricksteves.com). And to raise your travel I.Q., check out the video versions of our popular classes (covering most European countries as well as travel skills, packing smart, cruising, tech for travelers, European art, and travel as a political act—www.ricksteves.com/travel-talks).
Audio Tours on My Free App: I’ve produced dozens of free, self-guided audio tours of the top sights in Europe. For those tours and other audio content, get my free Rick Steves Audio Europe app, an extensive online library organized by destination. For more on my app, see here.
Radio: My weekly public radio show, Travel with Rick Steves, features interviews with travel experts from around the world. It airs on 400 public radio stations across the US. An archive of programs is available at RickSteves.com/radio.
Podcasts: You can enjoy my travel content via several free podcasts. The podcast version of my radio show brings you a weekly, hour-long travel conversation. My other podcasts include a weekly selection of video clips from my public television show, my audio tours of Europe’s top sights, and live recordings of my travel classes (RickSteves.com/watch-read-listen/audio/podcasts).
