Brief history

KL was founded in 1857 when the ruler of Selangor State, Rajah Abdullah, sent a party of Chinese to prospect for tin deposits around the junction of the Gombak and Klang rivers. The pioneers duly discovered rich deposits 6km from the confluence near Ampang (east of the present-day city centre), which grew into a staging post for Chinese mine labourers. Unusually, the settlement acquired the name Kuala Lumpur (“muddy confluence”) rather than, as convention dictated, being named after the lesser of the two rivers – KL should, by rights, have been called “Kuala Gombak”.

At first, KL was little more than a wooden shantytown; small steamers could approach within 30km along the Klang River, but the rest of the trip was either by shallow boat or through the jungle. Yet settlers poured in, seeking to tap the wealth of this unexplored region: British investors, Malay farmers, Chinese towkays (merchants) and labourers. The Chinese also formed two secret societies, the fierce rivalry between which restrained the township’s growth until the influential former miner Yap Ah Loy was appointed as Kapitan Cina, or Chinese headman, in 1869. Ah Loy brought law and order to the frontier town by ruthlessly making an example of criminals, parading them through the streets on a first offence and executing them if they reoffended. He led the rebuilding of KL after it was razed during the Selangor Civil War (1867–74) and personally bore much of the cost of a second rebuilding after a devastating fire in 1881.

The British Resident of Selangor State, Frank Swettenham, had most of KL’s remaining wooden huts demolished in the 1880s, and he imported British architects from India to design solid, grand edifices suitable for a new capital. By 1887 the city had five hundred brick buildings, and eight times that number in the early 1900s, by which time KL had also become capital of the Federated Malay States.

The early twentieth century

Development continued steadily in the first quarter of the twentieth century, during which time Indians mainly from Tamil Nadu swelled the population. Catastrophic floods in 1926 inspired a major engineering project that straightened the course of the Klang River, confining it within reinforced, raised banks. By the time the Japanese invaded the Peninsula in December 1941, the commercial zone around Chinatown had grown to eclipse the original colonial area, and the towkays, enriched by the rubber boom, were already installed in opulent townhouses along today’s Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman and Jalan Ampang. While the city suffered little physical damage during World War II, the Japanese inflicted terrible brutality on their historic enemies, the Chinese – at least five thousand were killed in the first few weeks of the occupation alone – and sent thousands of Indians to Myanmar (Burma) to build the infamous railway; very few survived, as noted in Pierre Boulle’s book, The Bridge on the River Kwai. At the same time, the Japanese ingratiated themselves with certain Malays by suggesting that loyalty to the occupiers would be rewarded with independence after the war.

Following the Japanese surrender in September 1945, the British found that nationalist demands had replaced the Malays’ former acceptance of the colonizers, and many Chinese felt alienated by talk that a future Malay government would deny them full citizenship. The ensuing Communist-inspired Emergency left KL relatively unscathed, but the atmosphere in the city was tense. These issues finally came to a head in KL’s May 1969 race riots, in which at least two hundred people lost their lives – though things calmed down rapidly after the imposition of a state of emergency.

Recent times

In 1974 KL was plucked from the bosom of Selangor State and designated Wilayah Persekutuan (Federal Territory), an administrative zone in its own right; Shah Alam, west along the Klang Valley, replaced it as Selangor’s capital. After a period of consolidation, KL and the rest of the Klang Valley, including KL’s satellite town of Petaling Jaya, became a thriving conurbation in the 1990s. That decade, and the early part of the new millennium, saw the realization of several huge infrastructural ventures that are part and parcel of local life today – KL’s international airport and the racetrack, both at Sepang in the far south of Selangor; the Petronas Towers and the attendant KLCC shopping development; the various urban rail systems across the city; and Putrajaya, the government’s administrative hub off to the south (though KL remains the legislative centre and seat of parliament). The transformation of swathes of KL and much of Selangor is less dramatic today, but still proceeds apace – not least in the ongoing extension of the Klang Valley MRT rail network – and concerns are being voiced over the potential strain on water resources and other environmental repercussions.

While KL is a noticeably sociable and safe place for visitors today, many Malaysians have mixed feelings about their capital. The city is second only to Singapore in regional economic clout, but it’s undeniable that rapid development has bequeathed many featureless buildings, follies and terrible traffic snarls, which some locals tolerate only because KL offers them good money and experience before they retire to a cherished provincial village. Conversely, others feel that it has been their salvation, the one city in the country where they can explore their artistic or spiritual identity.

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Kuala Lumpur

Rather than a discernible city centre, Kuala Lumpur has several hubs of activity. Close to the rivers’ original “muddy confluence”, the former colonial district and its distinctive architecture surrounds Merdeka Square – don’t miss the informative Textile Museum here – with the busy tourist hub of Chinatown just southeast. In between the two lie the attractive Jamek Mosque and the craft cornucopia that is Central Market. Worthwhile forays can be made north to Little India’s more locals-oriented shops and the altogether grittier Chow Kit Market.

Some 2km east, the Golden Triangle presents the city’s modern face, with lively Bukit Bintang packed with upmarket hotels, restaurants and designer shopping malls. Overlooking it to the north are the tall, strikingly modernist Petronas Towers; visitors flock to the Skybridge here, though in fact the westerly Menara KL Tower, poking out of wooded Bukit Nanas, has better views.

Southwest of the centre – and tricky to reach on foot across one of KL’s many pedestrian-unfriendly traffic flows – a clutch of worthwhile sights surrounds the green and airy Lake Gardens, notably Masjid Negara, one of the country’s largest mosques, and the excellent Islamic Arts Museum. Below here, the National Museum is not as good as it could be, while Brickfields is another strongly Indian district, worth a peek for its day-to-day residential street life.

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Colonial district

Pasar Seni or Masjid Jamek LRT; Kuala Lumpur KTM

The city’s small colonial district, which developed around the confluence of the Gombak and Klang rivers in the 1880s, is the area of KL that best retains its historic character. At its heart on the west bank of the Klang, the beautifully tended open padang (field) of Merdeka Square is where on 31 August 1957, Malaysia’s first prime minister, Tuanku Abdul Rahman, hauled down the British flag and declared merdeka, or independence. The 95m-high flagpole to the south is supposedly the tallest in the world, and the tiled square below is a popular spot for people to gather in the evenings.

Royal Selangor Club

On the western side of Merdeka Square, the Royal Selangor Club, founded in 1884, was the British elite’s favourite watering hole, popularly known as the “Spotted Dog” after a former Dalmatian mascot. It was here, on 30 November, 1938, that Albert Gispert and fellow drinkers at the club’s Hash House bar organized a weekly cross-country run; thus the now international Hash House Harriers were born. The original KL group, respectfully regarded as the mother of all hashing groups, is still in existence (motherhash.com). Closed to non-members, the club’s history outweighs the appeal of its facade, an oversized 1970s mock-Tudor affair that replaced a 1910 structure built by A.B. Hubback after the original burned down.

To the north, the Anglican St Mary’s Cathedral (1894), usually open in the daytime, welcomed the city’s European inhabitants every Sunday before they retired to the club.

National Textile Museum

26 Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin • Daily 9am–6pm • Free • 03 2694 3457, www.muziumtekstilnegara.gov.my

Housed in an elegant Moghul-Islamic building dating back to 1905, KL’s National Textile Museum traces the trends and development of textiles that have characterized and shaped the lifestyles of the people of Malaysia. As there are four galleries on two floors, it takes more than an hour to do the fairly informative collection justice – though the highlights can be skimmed over in far less time.

On the ground floor, the Pohon Budi Gallery focuses on the evolution of textiles from prehistory to modern times and the different weaving techniques adopted in Malaysia. Displays include fine double ikat textiles, made with a technique introduced from India in the eighteenth century, along with traditional equipment and paraphernalia for weaving, embroidery, batik making and beadwork.

The adjacent Pelangi Gallery displays textiles from Malaysia’s multiethnic communities, including Chinese and Baba Nyonya silk and brocades, the elaborate embroidered textiles of Sabah and handwoven ikat and songket of Sarawak. Look out for Sarawak’s Iban pua kumbu blankets, decorated with motifs of crocodiles and wild plants.

Upstairs, the Teluk Beranti Gallery is dedicated to Malay textiles, especially iridescent songket and limar cloth, which incorporates fine gold thread into its patterns. There are several pieces of splendid berayat, or scripted cloths, with brocade woven into the design in Arabic.

The final Ratna Sari Gallery departs into ceremonial metalwork for jewellery and personal adornments, including finely chased filigree tobacco boxes, golden anklets worn by Malay and Peranakan women in the early nineteenth century, and a small case of flame-bladed kris daggers and Iban head-hunting machetes from Sarawak.

Kuala Lumpur’s Moorish Style

KL’s colonial look originated with Charles Edwin Spooner, the state engineer, and architect Anthony Norman, who in the 1890s fused a Neoclassical Renaissance style – then the standard for government buildings throughout the British Empire – with “Eastern” motifs, which were felt to be more appropriate for an Islamic country. This Moorish style, however, characterized by onion domes, cupolas, colonnades, arched windows and wedding-cake plasterwork, owed more to Indian Moghul architecture than wooden Malay structures. Buildings by Norman in this mould include the Sultan Abdul Samad Building, the Old Post Office next door, and the National Textile Museum further south. Norman was succeeded in 1903 by A.B. Hubback, who had lived in India and smoothly continued the Moorish theme in the Jamek Mosque, old Kuala Lumpur train station and elsewhere.

Jamek Mosque (Masjid Jamek)

Entrance on Jalan Tun Perak • Mon–Thurs, Sat & Sun 8.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–4pm, Fri 3–4pm • Free

East of Merdeka Square, across the river, Lebuh Pasar Besar connects the colonial district with the more frenetic life of the old commercial district. Just north of the river bridge is the Jamek Mosque (or more officially the Sultan Abdul Samad Jamek Mosque), on a promontory at the confluence of the Klang and Gombak rivers – pretty much where the first tin prospectors built their shacks in the 1850s. Part of the second great period of expansion in KL, the mosque was completed in 1909 by Hubback, its attractive pink brick walls and arched colonnades topped by oval cupolas and squat minarets. There’s an intimacy here that’s lacking at the modern, much larger Masjid Negara to the south, and the grounds, bordered by palms, are a pleasant place to sit and rest – though the best view of the mosque is from over the Klang at the base of the HSBC building on Jalan Benteng.

Central Market

Jalan Hang Kasturi • Daily 10am–9.30pm • 1300 228688, centralmarket.com.my

The Art Deco Central Market is housed in a blue-and-white brick hangar, which was built in the 1920s as the capital’s wet market. However, the butchers and fishmongers have long since left for places like Chow Kit and the back alleys of nearby Chinatown, and the market was converted in the mid-eighties into what’s now known as Pasar Seni (which translates as “art market”). Most of the shops now sell souvenirs: Royal Selangor pewter, specialist antiques, Malay regional crafts, carvings and batiks, plus clothes, sarongs, silverware and T-shirts; there’s also a decent food court upstairs. Most artists, in fact, have moved into the newer Central Market Annexe immediately north, and the pavement in between is clogged with their enthusiastic – if unmemorable – canvases. Blatantly touristy, it is also enjoyable, with a lively atmosphere in the evenings.

Old Kuala Lumpur train station

Best reached south from Central Market along Jalan Tun Sambanthan, over the river and past the post office (Poslaju), then via the footbridge to the station

Old Kuala Lumpur train station, one of the city’s best-known colonial buildings and now a stop on the KTM train lines, was completed in 1911 by A.B. Hubback. As with the Jamek Mosque, its meshing spires, minarets and arches reflect his inspiration from North Indian Islamic architecture. Inside, the main platforms sit under an airy, light vault of fine ironwork, reminiscent of Victorian stations in London.

Although the station is architecturally linked to similar-vintage buildings around Merdeka Square, feverish traffic makes it difficult to reach on foot from there. For the best view of the facade, you’ll need to get across to the western side of Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin. Conveniently, a pedestrian subway links the station with the KTM headquarters opposite – yet another attractive Moorish structure designed by Hubback, finished around the same time as the station and actually more imposing than its counterpart. From the KTM headquarters it’s a few minutes’ walk to either Masjid Negara or the National Museum.

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Chinatown and around

Pasar Seni LRT

Spreading out southeast from the Central Market, Chinatown was KL’s original commercial kernel, dating from the arrival of the first traders in the 1860s. Bordered by Jalan Sultan to the east, Jalan Tun Perak to the north and Jalan Maharajalela to the south, the area had reached its current extent by the late nineteenth century, with southern Chinese shophouses, coffee shops and temples springing up along narrow streets such as Jalan Tun H.S. Lee and Jalan Petaling. Though the shophouses today are fairly workaday, it is encouraging that many period buildings are being refurbished in the face of recurrent threats of redevelopment; in 2011, public outcry saved a row of old shophouses on Jalan Sultan from demolition during construction of the ongoing Klang Valley railway.

Although Chinatown scores more on atmosphere than essential sights, it’s a hub for budget accommodation, and holds a wealth of inexpensive places to shop, eat and go out, so it’s likely you’ll spend some time here.

Jalan Petaling

For locals and visitors alike, pedestrianized Jalan Petaling (still often called Petaling Street) is very much Chinatown’s main draw. Home to brothels and gambling dens in KL’s early years, these days it’s a gauntlet of closely packed market stalls doing a roaring trade in clothing, watches and fake designer handbags, from late morning until well into the evening. Check goods thoroughly for workmanship – stitching especially – and bargain hard; in truth, you might find better deals in ordinary shops nearby. The narrow lanes parallel and either side of Petaling host grittier wet markets too, as well as a popular early morning bric-a-brac market, selling everything from old clothes to mobile phones.

Crossing Petaling at right angles, the eastern end of Jalan Hang Lekir hosts a slew of good, inexpensive restaurants and stalls selling ba kwa (slices of pork, given a sweet marinade and grilled), local fruits and molasses-like herbal brews in tureens.

Chan See Shu Yuen

Southern end of Jalan Petaling • Daily 8am–5pm • Free

The largest of Chinatown’s numerous Chinese shrines, Chan See Shu Yuen was founded at the turn of the twentieth century. It’s not actually a temple (though it looks like one), but rather a clan hall for families with the very common name of Chan – also transliterated Chen and Tan. A classic of southern Chinese architecture, the eaves are decorated in a riot of three-dimensional ceramic friezes depicting events in Chinese history and mythology; inside the green walls are a series of courtyards and halls, with the inner shrine covered in scenes of lions, dragons and mythical creatures battling with warriors. Most engaging of all are the two gentleman figurines on the altar, representing ancestors of the clan or possibly their servants – and wearing Western top hats to indicate their link with the colonial past.

Sri Maha Mariamman Temple

Jalan Tun H.S. Lee • Daily 24hr • Free; small donation appreciated

Oddly perhaps, one of KL’s main Hindu shrines, the Sri Maha Mariamman Temple, is located in the heart of Chinatown. The earliest shrine on the site was built in 1873 by Tamil immigrants, so this is the oldest Hindu temple in the city. It was named after the Hindu deity Mariamman, whose intercession was sought to provide protection against sickness and “unholy incidents”. In the case of the Tamils, who had arrived to build the railways or work on the plantations, they needed all the solace they could find from the appalling rigours of their working life.

Significant rebuilding of the temple took place in the 1960s, when sculptors from India were commissioned to design idols to adorn the five tiers of the multicoloured, 22.9m-high gate tower – these now shine with gold embellishments, precious stones and exquisite Spanish and Italian tiles. Garland-makers sell their wares outside the entrance, while above it is a hectic profusion of Hindu gods, painted in realistic colours and frozen in dozens of scenes from the Ramayana.

During the Hindu Thaipusam festival, the temple’s golden chariot is paraded through the streets on its route to the Batu Caves, on the city’s northern edge. The rest of the year, the chariot is kept in a large room in the temple; you might be able to persuade an attendant to unlock the door and let you take a peek.

Court Hill Ganesh Temple

9 Jalan Pudu Lama • Daily 6am–8.30pm • Free

East of the Maybank Building and hidden up a small lane, Court Hill Ganesh Temple is KL’s second most important Hindu shrine, dating to 1897 and reputedly founded by a gardener – which may explain why there’s a tree growing beside the building. As it is dedicated to the elephant-headed Lord Ganesh, who specializes in the removal of all obstacles to prosperity, peace and success, the temple was understandably popular with visitors on their way to KL’s original law courts, which were once located nearby.

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Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman and around

On foot from Chinatown, it takes around 45min to reach Chow Kit via Little India along Jalan TAR; the LRT, Monorail and buses also traverse the area

Running north from Chinatown, Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman – commonly abbreviated to Jalan TAR – brings you within reach of a series of small-scale, local neighbourhoods, which are somewhat unexpected in such a large city. First is Little India, a bustling commercial district renowned for its fabrics, especially saris and songkets, as well as jewellery. The clothing theme persists immediately west, where Gulati’s Silk House and the SOGO department store stock everything from saris to brand-name outdoor gear. There are also some fine 1920s Neoclassical and Art Deco buildings, including the dove-grey Coliseum Cinema, screening Bollywood releases, and the adjacent Coliseum Café (at no. 98). Once a favourite watering hole with British rubber plantation owners, its interior can’t have been decorated since Independence, and the clientele look of similar vintage. Drop in for the atmosphere and a cold beer rather than the food, which is nothing more than ordinary. Beyond here, Chow Kit Market is the place to find bargain clothing and local produce, while Kampung Bahru, off to the east of Jalan TAR, is a low-key enclave of Malay housing. There are no major sights, but a visit adds depth to KL’s character, and all three have excellent eating opportunities.

Little India

Masjid Jamek or Bandaraya LRT

East off the lower end of Jalan TAR, Little India is still a commercial centre for KL’s Indian community, though these days it’s eclipsed by Brickfields. Only a few steps north from the Masjid Jamek LRT station, Jalan Melayu holds Indian stores, some selling excellent burfi and other sweet confections; its name derives from the former Malay community here. Approaching Jalan Masjid India, you’ll encounter a popular covered market, smaller but otherwise similar to Chinatown’s Jalan Petaling. Further up is Masjid India itself, an Indian-influenced affair dating from the 1960s and tiled in cream and brown.

A few minutes further along the street, you’ll come to a little square, to the right (east) of which you’ll find plenty of kedai kopis and, come evening, street vendors selling food; turn off to the left to reach Lorong Tuanku Abdul Rahman, whose northern end is dominated by a night market, which gets going at around 6pm and is busiest at weekends. Mainly Malay-run, the stalls sell both food and eclectic bits and pieces, from T-shirts to trinkets. Just past here, Madras and Semua House are two huge haberdasheries, packed to their roofs with Indian textiles.

Chow Kit

Chow Kit Monorail or Sultan Ismail LRT

Chow Kit district, 1.5km north of Little India, is mostly known for the sprawling, busy Chow Kit Market, which fills the lanes east off Jalan TAR. It’s one of KL’s busiest, most in-your-face fresh produce markets, a tight, overcrowded grid of alleyways under low-slung awnings. Stalls sell everything fit to put in your mouth: bulk tropical fruits at bargain prices, live and prepared fish and poultry, hunks and haunches of various animals, and piles of fresh or dried vegetables and spices. Hawkers around the edge sell freshly cooked snacks too, many with a definite Indonesian slant.

Chow Kit is also a good place to buy secondhand clothes (sometimes called “baju bundle”). The best deals are west of Jalan TAR along Jalan Haji Taib, where you may chance upon items like Levi’s 501s in reasonable condition and at prices that are almost too good to be true – starting from RM20 a pair. The market runs for much of the day and into the evening, but note that some locals prefer to give Chow Kit a wide berth after dark, as it’s also something of a red-light area; even during the day, the area can be pretty sketchy.

Kampung Bahru

Kampung Baru LRT

If you’ve time on your hands and enjoy a wander, head 1km east from Chow Kit (along either Jalan Raja Bot or Jalan Raja Alang) into Kampung Bahru, one of Malaysia’s several designated Malay reserve areas – land that only people whose ID defines them as ethnic Malays can own, and indeed with its own status in law, not under the direct control of the KL city council. Though the Petronas Towers are visible off to the south, Kampung Bahru’s quiet lanes and painted wooden bungalows with gardens – not to mention chickens wandering the pavements – lend it a distinct village feel. Sadly, plans to “redevelop” the district may well involve wholesale demolitions.

Despite its proximity, you can’t walk southeast to KLCC (Kuala Lumpur City Centre) from here, owing to the riverside expressway.

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Golden Triangle

The heart of modern KL, the Golden Triangle is a sprawling area bounded to the north by Jalan Ampang, and to the west by Chinatown and the Klang River. Many visitors make a beeline for KLCC, a group of huge developments surrounding the focal KLCC Park, on a site once home to the Selangor Turf Club. The chief attractions here are the Petronas Towers, soaring above one of KL’s best malls, Suria KLCC, and the city’s glossy aquarium.

Further south, the Golden Triangle’s other magnet is Bukit Bintang (“Star Hill”), home to upmarket and workaday malls, many of KL’s best hotels and restaurants, and some engaging street life. East, Kompleks Kraf is the city’s largest handicrafts gallery, while northwest lies Bukit Nanas, a forested hill where the Menara KL communications tower affords great views of the city.

Petronas Towers

Tues–Thurs, Sat & Sun 9am–9pm, Fri 9am–1pm & 2.30–9pm; tours 45min; last admission 8.30pm • RM85; 1000 passes/day issued online and at the base of Tower 2 from 8.30am onwards, often sold out by 11am • 03 2331 8080, petronastwintowers.com.my

Very much the symbol of modern Malaysia, the twin columns of the Petronas Towers rise 451.9m above KL’s downtown area, towering over the enormous Suria KLCC mall at their base. When they were completed in 1998, as the headquarters of the state-owned oil company Petronas, many questioned whether the US$1.6 billion price tag was an unwarranted drain on the Malaysian economy, but the tapering steel-clad structures (designed by the Argentinian architect Cesar Pelli) are a stunning piece of architecture. Despite a definite Art Deco feel, the unusual eight-pointed cross-sectional profile obviously draws on Islamic art, while the profusion of squares and circles on the interior walls symbolize harmony and strength. The project is also permeated by Chinese numerology, in that the towers have 88 floors and the postcode is 59088 – eight being a very auspicious number for the Chinese.

One tower was built by a Japanese team, the other by rivals from Korea; while the Japanese topped out first, the Koreans had the honour of engineering the Skybridge, which joins the towers at both the 41st and 42nd floors. The views of KL’s sprawl from the Skybridge are pretty spectacular, thanks not least to the blue, glassy towers soaring either side of you – but they’re not quite as good as from the Observation Deck on the 86th floor.

Aquaria KLCC

KLCC Complex, accessed by a long pedestrian underpass from Suria KLCC • Daily 10am–8pm; last admission 7pm; check website for feeding times • RM69; check website for shark scuba dives • aquariaklcc.com

KL’s Aquaria KLCC is housed within the sizeable KL Convention Centre, which sits on the southern edge of KLCC. It’s expensive, and labelling is occasionally lost thanks to the muted lighting, but some sections are wonderful. Prime examples include the well-lit Living Reef tank, which is packed with multicoloured, multiform anemones and corals, and will help you make sense of the riches on view at the Perhentian Islands and elsewhere, and the Flooded Forest tank, with its pair of hefty, 2m-long Amazonian arapaima freshwater fish. It also holds electric eels, otters and even piranhas, but the pièce de résistance is the vast Living Ocean tank, which is traversed on a moving walkway through a transparent tunnel, replete with sand tiger sharks, octopuses and huge rays. There’s a raised pedestrian walkway from here to Pavilion KL mall.

Bukit Bintang

Bukit Bintang Monorail

For tourists and locals alike, Bukit Bintang – the broad corridor either side of Jalan Bukit Bintang – is one of the best spots in town for a wander. There’s a mall here to suit everyone: the gigantic, massively modern Pavilion KL, packed with international chains and designer outlets; posh Starhill Gallery, with an exclusive, snazzy Art Deco feel; the more modest Berjaya Times Square, Lot 10 mall and BB Plaza, and casual Farenheit 88; and the behemoth tech mall Low Yat. The southwestern end of Jalan Bukit Bintang is lined with royal palms and inexpensive clothing shops – and a few too many touts hissing “massage, nice lady, young lady” at passers-by – while the pavement around Lot 10 has evolved into a parade of smart cafés and shops, which is especially buzzing since the opening of the new MRT train station. By night the centre of attention, at least for dining, switches to nearby Jalan Alor, which boasts some great alfresco Chinese eating. Close by, Changkat Bukit Bintang and Tengkat Tong Shin hold even more excellent bars and restaurants, serving differing cuisines.

Kompleks Kraf

63 Jalan Conlay, south of KLCC • Daily 10am–6pm; museum daily 9am–5pm • RM5; batik-painting workshop RM15 • 03 2162 7459, kraftangan.gov.my

The sprawl of Malay Terengganu-style buildings housing Kompleks Kraf offers a good opportunity to see excellent examples of Malaysia’s crafts in one place – including carved wooden boxes, modern textiles and woven baskets – and to do some serious souvenir shopping. Their small, well-presented museum is also worth a quick browse to explore the intricacies of the weaving, tie-dyeing and batik processes, keris casting and Malay kite construction. For a hands-on experience, try the batik-painting workshop, where you can make a handkerchief to take home.

Badan Warisan

2 Jalan Stonor • Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; guided tours Mon–Sat 11am & 3pm (45min) • Free; minimum donation for tours RM15 •03 2144 9273, badanwarisan.org.my

Badan Warisan, Malaysia’s architecture conservation trust, campaigns to preserve the rich heritage of shophouses, temples and colonial buildings that developers and many municipal authorities seem intent on destroying. It’s housed close to Kompleks Kraf in a 1925 colonial mansion that contains a gift shop, good for books on local architecture, and hosts occasional temporary exhibitions, focusing on anything from colonial furniture to restoration work.

In the grounds is the beautifully restored Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman, a traditional timber house that once belonged to a Malay chieftain. Moved here from Kedah, it can only be visited on a guided tour.

Bukit Nanas

The western side of the Golden Triangle is dominated by forested Bukit Nanas (Pineapple Hill), where you can follow an easy forty-minute walking trail from the Forestry Office on Jalan Raja Chulan (daily 9am–6pm; free map available) to Jalan Ampang, close to the Bukit Nanas Monorail station. There are big trees, bird’s nest ferns, stands of bamboo and a few monkeys if you’re lucky.

Just west of the hill, on Jalan Bukit Nanas, the fine collection of colonial school buildings includes the St John’s Institution from 1904 and Convent Bukit Nanas School – still rated among KL’s top academic institutions.

Menara KL

2 Jalan Punchak • Daily 9am–10pm; last entry 9.30pm • Observation deck RM52; sky deck RM105; combination ticket for all Menara KL attractions RM155 • 03 2020 5444, menarakl.com.my • Take one of the free shuttles (every 15min) or walk 15min uphill from Jalan Puncak

At 421m, the Menara KL tower offers vistas east across the Petronas Towers to the blue peaks of the Titiwangsa Mountains, which mark the start of the Peninsula’s interior, and west along the unmitigated urban sprawl of the Klang Valley. Dusk is an especially worthwhile time to visit, as the city lights up – as does the tower itself at hourly intervals after dark and for special occasions (green for Muslim festivals, purple for Deepavali and red for the Chinese New Year). Though free audioguides describe what can be seen in each direction, it’s probably best to hold off visiting until you know KL well enough to be familiar with its general layout.

The observation deck sits at 276m inside in the bulbous portion of the tower, which was designed in the shape of a gasing, the Malay spinning top. Fixed binoculars (free) allow you to observe city life in minute detail. The sky deck, at 421m high, is open to the elements and makes for an even more bracing and impressive view.

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Lake Gardens and around

Old Kuala Lumpur train station KTM

West of the colonial district, the Lake Gardens offer a pleasant escape from KL’s more frenetic streets amid a humid, hilly spread of green. Near the sizeable, modern Masjid Negara, which fronts the area on Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin, a cool, white building contains the superb Islamic Arts Museum. Uphill lie the gardens themselves, complete with close-cropped lawns, a lake and a host of child-friendly attractions – including a Butterfly Park, a Bird Park, the Royal Malaysia Police Museum and the National Planetarium – while Malaysia’s National Museum is just south via a walkway over Jalan Damansara. Although you could easily spend half a day strolling around, you should focus on the three museums if you’re pushed for time.

The easiest access on foot is via Kuala Lumpur train station and the underpass to the KTM building, from where you can edge around to the mosque – otherwise you have to risk crossing the usual furious traffic flows. As smaller roads run through the gardens, however, it’s perhaps easiest to get here by taxi.

Masjid Negara

Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin • Mon–Wed, Sat & Sun 9am–6pm, Fri 2.45–6pm • masjidnegara.gov.my

Opened in 1965, Masjid Negara (National Mosque) features an unusual theme: the 73m-high minaret resembles a folded umbrella, and the imposing blue 16-point dome looks like an open one. Surrounding it are paved courtyards and colonnades, all rectangles of white marble bisected by pools of water. The prayer hall can hold up to ten thousand worshippers, though size gives way to decorative prowess in its finely detailed stone archways and engravings of the Koran, inspired by Istanbul’s Blue Mosque. To enter as a visitor (outside of prayer times), you must be properly dressed: robes can be borrowed for free at the mosque entrance.

Islamic Arts Museum

Jalan Lembah Perdana • Daily 10am–6pm • RM14 • 03 2274 2020, iamm.org.my

The ultramodern Islamic Arts Museum is housed in an elegant open-plan building with gleaming marble floors. This well-documented collection is a real standout; allow around ninety minutes to do it justice, and bear in mind that there’s an excellent on-site Middle Eastern restaurant (open Tuesday to Sunday during museum hours). If you’re arriving by taxi, you may find that the driver will know only the museum’s Malay name, which is Muzium Kesenian Islam – if that doesn’t work, just ask for the Masjid Negara, which is just a short walk away.

Level 1

The first level begins with a large collection of dioramas of Muslim holy places, including that of the Great Mosque of Xi’an in central China that draws attention to the neglected subject of Islam in the Far East, a theme continued elsewhere on this level. In the India gallery, devoted to the Moghuls, look for an intricately carved wooden locking mechanism, designed to cloister the harem away from the rest of the world; the China gallery features porcelain and scroll paintings bearing Arabic calligraphy. Best of all is an impressive three-metre-high archway in the Malay gallery, once part of a house belonging to an Indonesian notable, with black, red and gold lacquering and a trelliswork of leaves as its main motif. An equally fine trunk below it was used as a travelling box by Terengganu royalty. Built of the much-prized cengal hardwood, it’s decorated in red and gold and bears the names of Islam’s revered first four caliphs.

Level 2

On the second level, richly embroidered textiles and marquetry back up unusual examples of Western European ceramic crockery, influenced by the Islamic world in their design – and sometimes produced for that market. Most interesting here is the terrace containing the museum’s main dome, a blue-and-white affair with floral ornamentation. Built by Iranian craftsmen, it’s the only one of several similar examples in the building that’s intended to illustrate the exterior of a grand mosque. Finally, look out for the bizarre reversed dome ceiling, bulging downwards from above – it’s the last thing you see as you make your way back to the foyer from the area containing the excellent gift shop.

Royal Malaysia Police Museum

5 Jalan Perdana • Tues–Thurs, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm, Fri 10am–noon & 3–6pm • Free • 03 2272 5689

The Royal Malaysia Police Museum (RMP) covers the vivid history of the Royal Malaysian Police force. Fascinating photographs include a shot of British officers and their local charges on patrol on buffaloes, around 1900. The museum also displays weapons confiscated from the Communists during the Emergency of the 1950s, including a vicious assortment of parangs and a curved, bladed implement known as a Sarawak or Iban axe, all presented in a jungle-themed exhibition space. Once you’ve had a look around, you can, if you’re feeling energetic, continue up Jalan Perdana into the Lake Gardens or head up the flight of steps opposite the museum to the hill where the National Planetarium is located.

Lake Gardens

KL’s Lake Gardens (Taman Tasik Perdana) were laid out in the 1890s by the British state treasurer to Malaya, Alfred Venning. Not quite parkland or gardens in the usual sense, they’re probably best seen as a pleasant setting for various attractions, all connected by paths and sealed roads. If you’re out this way in the afternoon, consider dropping into KL’s most exclusive hotel, the colonial mansion Carcosa Seri Negara, off to the west. Their oh-so-English high tea is a fitting reward for a hot day’s wander around the gardens – as long as you don’t mind dressing smartly (it can get hot on the verandah) and paying RM80 per head for the privilege.

Butterfly Park

Lake Gardens • Daily 9am–6pm • RM25 • 03 2693 4799, klbutterflypark.com

The beautiful Butterfly Park is an unexpected delight. Enclosed in invisibly fine netting, this garden of tropical vines, shrubs and ferns nurtures 120 species of gorgeous butterflies – some with 15cm wingspans – flitting about amid the undergrowth and feed stations baited with pineapple and banana. There are also tranquil ponds full of giant koi carp, and a small but informative insect museum.

Bird Park

Lake Gardens • Daily 9am–6pm • RM67 • 03 2272 1010, klbirdpark.com

Billed as the world’s largest, KL’s popular Bird Park features a well-designed network of ponds and streams underneath a huge mesh tent, all linked together by a looped walkway. There are free-flying egrets, storks, African starlings, nutmeg pigeons and parrots all over the place, and there’s a flock of flamingoes living in one of the ponds, as well as cages of indigenous species that you might well encounter in Malaysia’s wilder corners – hornbills, birds of prey such as the Brahminy kite, and the sizeable argus pheasant. Give yourself an hour and a half to look around and take in a show; the only real downside is the park’s high cost, relative to any other attraction in town.

Orchid and Hibiscus Gardens

Lake Gardens • Daily 9am–6pm • Mon–Fri free, Sat & Sun RM1 • 03 2617 6000

If you’re into tropical plants, you’ll love the Orchid and Hibiscus Gardens. There are said to be more than eight hundred Malaysian orchids alone, all lining paved walkways in brightly coloured, formal arrangements. The hibiscus collection is laid out along terraces and includes Malaysia’s national flower, the bright red bunga raya. There are also groves of South American heliconias in the gardens, which look a bit like ginger plants but with brightly coloured, strikingly shaped flowers.

Tun Abdul Razak Memorial

Lake Gardens • Tues–Thurs, Sat & Sun 9am–5.30pm, Fri9am–noon & 3–5.30pm • 03 2693 7141

The main road through the Lake Gardens weaves south past a field of deer to the Tun Abdul Razak Memorial, a house built for the second Malaysian prime minister. He’s commemorated with assorted memorabilia inside, while his motorboat and golf trolley are ceremonially positioned outside. Behind here is the lake itself, which takes nearly an hour to walk around.

National Planetarium

Lake Gardens • Tues–Sun 9am–4.30pm • Free; planetarium shows RM12 • 03 2273 4301, www.planetariumnegara.gov.my

Set on a forested hill east of the lake, the National Planetarium is reachable on foot using the steps opposite the RMP Museum. Its blue dome and geometrically latticed walls make this an unlikely example of the city’s Islamic-influenced architecture. The interior, admittedly a little gaudy, is full of insightful notes about space travel; there’s a cutaway space capsule, a Viking rocket engine and spacesuits in glass cases, all lit up by blue lighting. The Space Theatre also shows an hourly film on various topics, not necessarily about space. Take the lift up to the top-floor viewing platform – it’s a hidden gem of a lookout spot – for views stretching across the parks to KLCC and beyond. A pedestrian bridge runs south from the planetarium to the National Museum.

National Museum

Jalan Damansara • Daily 9am–6pm; free guided tours Mon–Sat 10–11am • RM5 • 03 2267 1111, www.muziumnegara.gov.my •KL train station; walk via the underpass to the KTM building, as there are no other crossings on Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin

Built in 1963, the National Museum (Muzium Negara) has a sweeping roof characteristic of northern Malay architecture, and four galleries that focus perhaps a bit too much on the Malay side of things, giving relatively little space to the Orang Asli, Indians, Chinese and Europeans who have also left their mark on the nation’s history and culture. Despite this, the museum is definitely worth an hour, especially if you’ve seen the Textile Museum’s complementary exhibits.

On the first floor, Gallery A offers a stroll through prehistory, with human skeletal remains from Kelantan that prove that settlers were present on the Peninsula around 6000 BC. Gallery B covers early Malay kingdoms, in particular the Melaka Sultanate, with a particularly good collection of finely chased kris daggers and items recovered from sunken Chinese trading vessels. The pace accelerates upstairs, where Gallery C covers the colonial era, from reconstructions of Melaka’s Portuguese fortifications to intricate models of trading ships to a fine seventeenth-century German Bellarmine jug depicting a bearded face – characteristic of such jugs – on the neck of the vessel. There’s also ungenerous coverage of the British “interference” in the Malay States, including a diorama of the signing of the Pangkor Treaty. Tin, the metal that opened up Malaysia to development, dominates the final part of the gallery; mining equipment sits alongside animal-shaped coinage – including a 30cm crocodile – once used in Selangor and Perak.

Gallery D parcels modern Malaysia into a triumphant photo parade of the nation’s founding fathers, of various races, whose names you see on street signs downtown – though there’s only cursory coverage of broader history, such as the Emergency during the 1950s. Finally, don’t miss the open-air courtyard at the back, which features an excellent run-down of the Peninsula’s indigenous groups, alongside fantastic totem-pole-like objects and grotesque face masks such as the one-fanged moyang melor, which were used in rites of ancestor worship.

< Back to Kuala Lumpur and around

Brickfields and KL Sentral

KL Sentral LRT, KTM and Monorail

The laidback residential neighbourhood of Brickfields, 2km south of the city centre near KL Sentral station, was first settled by Tamils employed to build the railways, and named after the brickworks that lined the rail tracks. Even today, the area retains a strong South Indian presence along Jalan Tun Sambanthan – the main thoroughfare – especially the western stretch beyond the huge pink fountain marking the intersection with Jalan Travers; the road has flowers painted on it, buildings are pastel-hued, and Indian pop tunes blare out of sari shops and grocers. This is one of the city’s corners to visit for local ambience rather than monumental sights, though there are two wonderful temples and the area is also home to some good places to eat.

Sri Kandaswamy Temple

3 Lorong Scott • Mon–Thurs 5.30am–9pm,Fri–Sun 5.30am–9.30pm • 03 2274 2987, srikandaswamykovil.org

The Hindu Sri Kandaswamy Temple was founded by the Sri Lankan Tamil community in the 1900s, though the present structure was consecrated in 1997. Its facade, a riot of brightly coloured statues reminiscent of Chinatown’s Sri Maha Mariamman Temple, is all the more appealing for being little visited by tourists; just don’t expect to find anyone who can explain the layout, which includes, in the far right corner of the entrance wall, a collection of nine garlanded deities representing the planets.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Pavilion KL MALL; Masjid Jamek; Batu Caves

Thean Hou Temple

65 Persiaran Endah • Daily 8am–9pm • 03 2274 7088

A stone’s throw southeast from Brickfields proper, the six-tiered Thean Hou Temple is dedicated to the Chinese sea goddess Mazu and affiliated with Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism. Built by local Hainanese communities and opened in 1989, it remains one of the largest Chinese temples in South East Asia. The building is illuminated with hundreds of lanterns on the birthdays of goddesses Tian Hou, Kuan Yin and Mazu (all of whom have shrines inside along with Chinese zodiac symbology) and looks particularly good on Chinese New Year – it’s spellbinding stuff.

Kuala Lumpur International Airport: in-town check-in

Passengers departing from KLIA with Malaysia Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Cathay Dragon, Emirates, Etihad Airlines or Malindo Air can check bags in up to 2hr before departure time at the KLIA Express ticket desks at KL Sentral station. It’s a useful option if you have a late flight and don’t want to lug your bags around all day after you check out of your accommodation.

Arrival and departure: kuala lumpur

KL’s airports cover all major destinations across Malaysia, Singapore and Bandar Seri Begawan, as well as many Southeast Asian and international airports. If you’re coming to KL by plane from anywhere outside of Southeast Asia, you’ll arrive at KLIA, while regional flights will arrive at the low-cost terminal KLIA2 or at Subang Skypark, depending on the airline. If you’re arriving by train, you’ll stop at KL Sentral, the main station, while buses are likely to stop at TBS (Terminal Bersepadu Selatan), 12km south of the centre.

By Plane

Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA; 03 8777 8888, klia.com.my), the main long-haul airport, is some 50km south of KL and serves all major long-haul services. The arrivals hall contains a visitor centre (daily 8am–11pm; 03 8776 5647), a 24hr bureau de change, exchange facilities, and desks representing car rental outlets and KL’s pricier hotels. Kuala Lumpur International Airport 2 (KLIA 2; 03 8778 5540, klia.com.my), just 2km north of KLIA, is used by budget airlines including AirAsia, Malindo Airways, Cebu Pacific and TigerAir, flying both domestic and international routes. Facilities include ATMs, a 24hr bureau de change and plenty of duty-free shops. KL’s small second airport, Subang Skypark Sultan Abdul Aziz Shah Airport; 03 7842 2773, subangskypark.com), 25km west of the city, hosts only Firefly and Berjaya airlines at present, covering a few domestic destinations plus Singapore and Koh Samui in Thailand.

Destinations from KLIA and KLIA 2 Bintulu (1 daily; 1hr); Kota Kinabalu (13 daily; 1hr 30min); Johor (6 daily; 1hr); Kedah (3 daily; 1hr); Kelantan (8 daily; 1hr); Kuching (12 daily; 1hr 30min); Labuan (2 daily; 1hr 30min); Langkawi (10 daily; 1hr); Miri (4 daily; 1hr 30min); Penang (10 daily; 1hr); Sandakan (3 daily; 1hr 30min); Tawau (4 daily; 1hr 30min); Terengganu (4 daily; 1hr).

Destinations from Subang Skypark Johor Bahru (hourly; 1hr); Koh Samui (4 weekly; 2hr); Kota Bahru (hourly; 1hr); Kuala Terengganu (4 daily; 1hr); Langkawi (4 daily; 1hr); Penang (hourly; 1hr); Singapore (daily; 1hr).

onward transport from Klia and Klia 2

An airport shuttle covers the short distance between KLIA and KLIA 2, so the transport options between the sister airports and the city centre are largely the same.

By train Two fast, convenient rail links (kliaekspres.com) connect both KLIA and KLIA2 with downtown KL Sentral station: KLIA Transit (from KL Sentral daily 4.30am–midnight and from KLIA daily 5.30am–1am; every 20–30min in both directions; 40min; RM350), which stops three times along the way; and the nonstop KLIA Ekspres (from KL Sentral 5am–12.30am and from KLIA 5am–1am; every 15–20 min in both directions; 28min; RM55.

By bus Buses between KLIA and KL are much cheaper, if slower, than the trains. Services by Airport Coach (016 228 9070, airportcoach.com.my) depart hourly around the clock for KL Sentral station (1hr; RM10 one-way, RM18 return), while Star Shuttle (03 4043 8811, starwira.com) runs hourly to Pudu Sentral (UTC) bus station in Chinatown and hotels in Bukit Bintang (from KLIA 5am–2.15am, from Pudu Sentral 12.15am–11.15pm; 1hr 15min for both routes; RM10–18). There are also buses to Ipoh with Star Shuttle, and some to Melaka and Seremban; if you want to bypass KL and catch a bus to another part of the Peninsula, go to Terminal Bersepadu Selatan.

By taxi The hour-long taxi ride to downtown KL costs between RM80–100, and you can buy a fixed-fare ticket from the counter near the arrivals exit. Alternatively, get a Grab or Uber (around RM75) to meet you at one of the airport doors.

Onward transport from Subang skypark

By train Until the Subang Jaya train line opens in 2018, the quickest way into town is to catch a taxi from the airport to Kelana Jaya LRT train station (30min; RM35) and then take the LRT to KL Sentral or Pasar Seni (35min).

By bus KL Airport shuttle coaches (subangskypark.com) connect the airport to KLIA (daily 5am–11pm; hourly; RM10) and KL Sentral (daily 9am–9pm; hourly; RM10).

By taxi A taxi from Subang Skypark to the city centre will set you back about RM50 (40min); a Grab/Uber will cost around RM40.

By train

Located just southwest of downtown KL, KL Sentral station is the main hub for the Peninsula’s trains, and also for many of KL’s local rail services. Inside, you’ll find separate ticket counters for all train services, plus the various airport buses. By the north entrance near where the Hilton is located, there are also ATMs, left-luggage lockers (daily 8am–10.30pm; RM5/day; 012 395 6969) and taxi ticket counters for the rank outside. Fast ETS trains arrive at KL from Ipoh, Butterworth and the border town Padang Besar, as well as from the southern rail hub of Gemas, which has a slow connection with Johor Bahru, the interior and the east coast. For fares and timetables, see ktmb.com.my. KTM Komuter trains connect KL Sentral with Port Klang, where ferries from Indonesia dock at the Asa Niaga terminal near the station, and with Seremban.

Destinations Alor Setar (5 daily; 4hr 30min–5hr); Butterworth (7 daily; 4hr 15min); Gemas (4 daily; 2hr 15min); Ipoh (every 1hr–1hr 30min; 2hr 30min); Kuala Kangsar (11 daily; 3hr); Padang Besar (5 daily; at least 5hr); Port Klang (every 15–30min; 1hr); Seremban (every 15–20min; 1hr 20min); Sungai Petani (5 daily; 4hr 15min); Taiping (11 daily; 3hr 15min).

Travel agents and tour operators

For advice on local tours, Perhentian trips, or packages to Taman Negara, either ask at your hotel or hostel, or visit Malaysia Tourism Centre. Specific Taman Negara operators include NKS (03 2072 0336, taman-negara-nks.com) and Han Travel (03 2031 0899, han-travel.com), who both charge around RM350 per person for a three-day trip. Kuala Lumpur Travel Tour (017 633 0062, kualalumpurtraveltour.com), meanwhile, organizes plenty of private tours in and around the capital, including to the Blue Mosque, the country’s largest, at Shah Alam.

Onward transport

By train Pasar Seni station in Chinatown is just one stop from KL Sentral on the Kelana Jaya–Gombak LRT line (myrapid.com.my). For Bukit Bintang, you need the Monorail which, in a minor planning lapse, is 200m away on Jalan Tun Sambathan – descend to street level on the southeast side of KL Sentral and follow a signed walkway.

By taxi There’s a taxi rank on the northern side of KL Sentral station, open until around 1am. You can negotiate a price with the driver; a taxi to Chinatown should cost roughly RM12 and to Bukit Bintang no more than RM15.

By bus

To buy tickets, you’ll generally need to turn up and speak to the various bus companies directly, though the larger ones such as Easybook (010 396 6688, easybook.com) can also be contacted by phone.

Pudu Sentral

KL’s most central long-distance bus station, Pudu Sentral (Puduraya), occupies a multistorey complex on Jalan Pudu, just east of Chinatown. It deals mainly with northbound traffic, with dozens of bus companies ensuring regular departures to most places. On the main passenger level are ATMs and food stalls, and there’s also a bank upstairs. On arrival, exit the west side of the building for the short walk to Chinatown, or connect to Merdeka station on the Laluan Sungai Buloh (LBS) line #9; there’s also an alley leading east to Plaza Rakyat LRT station on the Ampang #3 and Sri Petaling #4 lines. A useful pedestrian bridge crosses Jalan Pudu from the north side, from where Bukit Bintang’s hostels are a 15min walk. Alternatively, reach Bukit Bintang aboard RapidKL bus #400, #401 or #508, all of which head east along Jalan Pudu and Jalan Imbi, then north up Jalan Sultan Ismail to the Lot 10 Mall. When departing from this bus station you’ll need to check your ticket, as it will be marked with the departure bay in the basement – each of the bays is reached by a separate numbered staircase.

Destinations Alor Setar (hourly; 7hr 30min); Butterworth (hourly; 5hr 30min); Cameron Highlands (hourly; 4hr); Genting Highlands (every 30min; 1hr); Georgetown (hourly; 4hr); Hat Yai (2 daily; Thailand; 9hr); Ipoh (hourly; 3hr 30min); Kangar (8 daily; 7hr); Kuala Kangsar (6 daily; 2hr 30min); Kuala Perlis (8 daily; 8hr); Lumut (every 1hr 30min; 3hr 30min); Penang (every 30min; 5hr); Taiping (5 daily; 4hr 30min).

Pekeliling

Pekeliling bus station (sometimes known as Jalan Pekeliling), 3km northwest of central KL and just off Jalan Tun Razak, is used mainly by buses from Pahang including Taman Negara, along with some services to the Genting Highlands. The separate Titiwangsa stations on the Monorail and the LRT are just to the north.

Destinations Jerantut (for Taman Negara National Park; 6 daily; 3hr 30min); Kuala Lipis (10 daily; 4hr).

TERMINAL Bersepadu Selatan (TBS)

With mostly services to the south and east of KL, TBS (tbsbts.com.my) is an important bus hub for the city, and the closest bus station to KLIA. It’s 10km south of KL, next to Bandar Tasik Selatan LRT station, and is served by some airport shuttles.

Destinations Alor Setar (2 daily; 4hr 40min); Butterworth (3 daily; 3hr 40min); Johor (every 30min; 5hr); Kuala Perlis (daily; 5hr 30min); Ipoh (5 daily; 3hr 30min); Kuantan (3 daily; 3hr); Lumut (3 daily; 3hr 15min); Melaka (every 30min; 2hr 30min); Penang (5 daily; 4hr 30min); Singapore (every 30min; 6hr); Sungai Petani (daily; 4hr).

Other bus stations

Old Kuala Lumpur train station Luxury buses from Kuala Lumpur train station serve destinations including Johor (every 30min; 5hr 30min), Melaka (every 30min; 3hr 30min) and Singapore (every 30min; 6hr).

Klang bus station Located in Chinatown just below Pasar Seni train station, the Klang bus station serves Port Klang (every 15min; 1hr 30min), but it’s far quicker to make this journey aboard the KTM Komuter train to Pelabuhan Klang station.

Jalan Imbi Transtar (65 6292 9009, transtar.travel) luxury buses to and from Singapore (4 daily; 6hr) arrive and leave from here. It’s convenient, as it’s practically in the heart of Bukit Bintang.

By long-distance taxi

Long-distance taxis leave from Pudu Sentral bus station; typical fares per vehicle are around RM340 to Cameron Highlands, RM450 to Kuala Tahan (the main entrance for Taman Negara) and RM550 to Kota Bharu or Kuala Terengganu.

By car

Leaving KL by car onto the Peninsula’s main highways is hampered by confusing road signage, one-way systems and countless express bypasses – this is only recommended for confident drivers.

E1 The North–South Expressway, northbound, is signed from Jalan Duta, which branches off Middle Ring Rd I west of the Lake Gardens. Major towns on the route include Tanjong Malim, Kuala Kangsar, Bukit Mertajam (for Penang Island) and Butterworth.

E2 The North–South Expressway, southbound, starts at Sungai Besi 2km south of Chinatown, and is most quickly reached using the long underground SMART tunnel on the eastern section of Jalan Tun Razak. This passes notable destinations like Seremban, Alor Gajah (for Melaka) and Yong Peng, on the way to Johor Bahru.

E8 To reach the E8 (Karak Highway), which is linked to the East Coast Highway to Kuantan, and Route 8 into the interior, get onto Jalan Tun Razak (or Jalan Raja Laut if starting from Chinatown) and head northwest to Jalan Ipoh; proceed up this for a short distance, then turn right onto Jalan Sentul and follow signs for the highway.

By ferry

The only ferries from the vicinity of KL are those from Port Klang to Dumai (Sumatra; daily 10.30am; 3hr 30min; RM110); check current schedules on 03 3167 7186. The port is on the KTM Komuter line to KL Sentral and Kuala Lumpur train stations.

getting around

Downtown KL isn’t that large, so it’s tempting to do a lot of your exploring on foot, but it’s likely you’ll soon find yourself wilting thanks to the combined effects of humidity and traffic fumes from the vehicle-choked roads. Thankfully, the light rail transit (LRT) and mass rapid transit (MRT) lines and the Monorail, along with KTM Komuter train services and taxis, are efficient and inexpensive. The services did not always coordinate well, though much of this has been rectified with the recent RM10 billion extension project. The main governing body is RapidKL (myrapid.com.my), which runs the LRT, MRT and Monorail lines, plus many of the city’s buses; its website includes network maps and details of monthly transport passes.

By train

LRT and MRT

The Klang Valley Integrated Transit System (daily 6am–midnight; every 5–10min) features three operational Light Rail Transit (LRT, myrapid.com.my) lines and the planned three-line Mass Rapid Transit system (MRT, mrt.com.my), which at the time of research was being opened stage by stage. The LRT network comprises the #3 Ampang Line, #4 Sri Petaling Line and #5 Kelana Jaya Line, which became a lot more user-friendly in 2017 with the line extension to Putra Heights. The Ampang and Sri Petaling lines both follow the route from the northern terminus at Sentul Timor to Chan Sow Lin in the south, before splitting off to Ampang to the east or Putra Heights to the southwest via Sri Petaling. For visitors, these lines are mainly of use for travel between Chinatown (Plaza Rakyat) and Little India (Masjid Jamek or Bandaraya) and Chow Kit Market (Sultan Ismail). The Kelana Jaya Line was the first fully automated and driverless rail link in the Klang Valley. The route starts at Gombak near the Batu Caves, passes through KL Sentral, Chinatown and the old colonial district (Pasar Seni or Masjid Jamek) and its former terminus at Kelana Jaya, before reaching Putra Heights. The first MRT service, the #9 Sungai Buloh–Kajang Line, has opened, and the #12 Sungai Buloh–Serdang–Putrajaya Line is set to follow by 2020. The feasibility of the third #13 Circle Line is still under review. The Sungai Buloh–Kajang Line is now easily the best option for travel between Bukit Bintang, Pasar Seni, Merdeka (for Plaza Rakyat) and Muzium Negara (for KL Sentral and the National Museum), and this service connects Sungai Buloh in the northwest with Kajang in the southeast. It will also serve the proposed Kuala Lumpur International Financial District (KLIFD) in the east of the city, from the Tun Razak Exchange (TRX) station.

Touch ’n Go cards

As if literally named after KL’s not-yet-realized dreams of a fully integrated transport system, the Touch ’n Go card (03 2714 8888, touchngo.com.my) is a useful stored-value card that you simply touch across the sensors at KTM Kommuter, LRT and Monorail stations, and when you board RapidKL buses. You can also use it to pay Expressway tolls on the Peninsula, and in various car parks and fast-food joints around KL. Cards cost RM10.60 from many stations (look for the blue and yellow logo); ticket office staff at the same places can recharge them (RM10–500 at a time; cash only), as can 7-Eleven stores and highway toll stations (plaza tol). As the cards save time queuing, rather than save money, they’re of most use if you are in the city a good deal or plan to drive yourself around the Peninsula.

Monorail

Trains on this elevated rail system (daily 6am–midnight; every 5–10min; RM1.20–2.50; myrapid.com.my) have a noticeable tilt as they camber around bends. From the KL Sentral terminus (200m from the KL Sentral rail hub), the line at first heads east, through Brickfields and the southern edge of Chinatown, then swings north and west through Bukit Bintang and along Jalan Sultan Ismail, nearly reaching Jalan TAR before heading north through Chow Kit to terminate at Titiwangsa station on Jalan Tun Razak. There are interchanges with the LRT at Bukit Nanas (a 5min walk to Dang Wangi station) and at Hang Tuah.

KTM Komuter

Run by national rail operator KTM (ktmb.com.my), trains travel on two lines: one from Pulau Sebang/Tampin, north of Melaka, to Batu Caves via Seremban, the other from coastal Port Klang (Pelabuhan Klang in Malay) north to Tanjung Malim in Perak. Both of them connect downtown at four stations: Putra, near the Putra World Trade Centre; Bank Negara, near Little India; the Kuala Lumpur train station, in the colonial district; and KL Sentral. Trains run every 15–20min during the day, but only every 30min after 8pm. Tickets (up to RM10) can be purchased from the stations and automatic machines at the stops; return tickets cost double the one-way fare. Weekly and monthly passes for designated journeys are also available. Note that Komuter trains all have a central women-only carriage.

By bus

KL has a comprehensive city bus network, with Metrobus and RapidKL as the two main operators, but the lack of clearly marked terminuses and bus stops can make it baffling for outsiders to use. Services start up around 6am and begin winding down from 10pm onwards. Given KL’s frequent traffic snarl-ups, do allow plenty of time for your journey. The small grid of streets around Pudu Sentral and Central Market (Pasar Seni station) is a hub of sorts; buildings with key stops close by, including the Sinarkota Building, the Kotaraya Building and the Bangkok Bank, appear on our Chinatown map. RapidKL (myrapid.com.my) offers SMART7/Weekly and SMART30/Monthly passes for discounted rates, as well as Touch ’n Go that also work at car toll booths.

by taxi

KL taxis are cheap and convenient, though drivers used to be notorious for negotiating inflated prices rather than using the meter – a problem that has decreased drastically since the advent of competition from Grab and Uber. There are two ways to deal with this: ask if they use the meter before getting in, and flag down another cab if they don’t; or buy a prepaid coupon for your journey from booths attached to designated cab ranks or at the airport. A few drivers don’t speak much English, so you may want to have the address of your destination, or a well-known landmark nearby, written down in Malay. There are numerous taxi ranks around the city, usually close to bus stops and outside shopping malls and tourist attractions. Fares are generally low: in regular taxis the flagfall is RM3, and the tariff is 10 sen for every 150m travelled. This translates into just RM5–6 for a typical journey between Bukit Bintang and Chinatown, or RM7–8 for Bukit Bintang to KL Sentral or Chinatown to KLCC. Expect to pay a bit more for downtown journeys in the smarter (often blue) taxis; luggage in the boot is charged at RM1/bag. To book a taxi, which costs an extra couple of ringgit, call Sunlight Radio Taxis (03 9200 1166, sunlighttaxi.com).

information

Bear in mind that, given the chaotic nature of KL city planning, maps and listings tend to go out of date fairly quickly; don’t be surprised if roads, venues and buildings have sprung into existence or ceased to be.

Tourism Malaysia The national tourist board has branches across the city (tourism.gov.my), handing out brochures and general advice. You can also book accommodation, local tours and packages to Taman Negara and the like through in-house travel agents. The main office is at Malaysia Tourism Centre (MaTiC), 109 Jalan Ampang, not far from the Bukit Nanas Monorail stop (daily 8am–10pm; 03 9235 4900, matic.gov.my); bus #B105 also runs here from Central Market in Chinatown. Other branches include: Sultan Abdul Samad Building on Jalan Raja (daily 9am–6pm; 03 2602 2014, tourismmalaysia.gov.my); KL Sentral Station, Level 1 (daily 9am–6pm; 03 2272 5823); KLIA international arrivals hall (daily 8am–11pm; 03 8776 5647); KLIA 2 (daily 8am–11pm; 03 8778 7080).

Listings To keep an ear to the ground on happenings around town, check out the monthly Time Out KL (timeout.com/kuala-lumpur). Also worth a look is visionkl.com, a handy repository of sights, restaurants, clubs and events.

TOURS

Food Tour Malaysia 013 227 1505, foodtourmalaysia.com. Offers excellent “off the eaten track” and KL walking tours both during the day and in the evenings, which are perfect for getting acquainted with Malaysia’s many cuisines. Tours start from RM250 and last around three hours.

Go KL City Bus 1 800 887723, gokl.com.my. There are free buses that stop off at major sights around the city (Mon–Fri 6am–11pm, Sat & Sun 7am–11pm; every 5–10min); you can use the services as often as you please, and hop on and off as many times as you fancy. You can pick up a detailed map at the tourist office, and board the bus right outside MaTiC on Jalan Ampang.

KL Hop-on Hop-off 1 800 885546, myhoponhopoff.com. The KL Hop-on Hop-off bus service, which loops around a set circuit via a string of tourist sights (daily 9am–8pm; every 20–30min; unlimited-use day ticket RM55, 48hr RM95). Buses are open-top double-deckers, and audio commentaries are available in a handful of languages.

Kuala Lumpur City Hall Tours 03 2698 0332, www.visitkl.gov.my. There are free Dataran Merdeka heritage tours that start at the Kuala Lumpur City Gallery (Mon, Wed & Sat 9am; 2hr 30min), as well as Little India walking tours from Vivekananda Ashram (Sat 9am; 2hr 30min). Plans for night walks around Masjid Jamek were also being finalized at the time of research.

Accommodation

While Chinatown has traditionally been the favourite location for budget travellers, with its surfeit of inexpensive places to sleep, eat, drink and shop, it faces growing competition from Bukit Bintang, a 15min walk east, where you’ll find plenty of excellent guesthouses on and around Tengkat Tong Shin. Even though they’re usually more expensive than in Chinatown, they’re often better value – less cramped and noisy, with slicker facilities and self-service breakfasts included in the rate. Slightly further afield, more upscale hotels can be found along Jalan Sultan Ismail and Jalan Ampang, which, together with Bukit Bintang, form part of KL’s Golden Triangle. All other parts of KL pale in comparison when it comes to accommodation, though Little India also features several mid-range options.

Accommodation essentials

Rates

Thanks to an over-supply of rooms for much of the year, rates remain competitive in KL – a bed in a dorm can be had for as little as RM30, and it’s seldom hard to find a simple double in a guesthouse with shared facilities for RM50/night, or RM80 if you need en-suite facilities and a/c. A good mid-range hotel room costs around RM150, while anything above RM250/night will be pretty luxurious. Check online or ask when booking about promotional rates or weekday hotel discounts; the prices here refer to weekend rates.

Bookings

Although it’s almost inconceivable that you’d be unable to find somewhere to stay in your price range here, it always makes sense to book ahead, especially during busy periods – July to August and November to December, plus school and public holidays. As well as individual accommodation websites, you can try hostelworld.com, airbnb.com or hostelbookers.com for hostels and guesthouses.

BREAKFAST

All high-end, international-brand hotels include breakfast in their rates, and this is usually a buffet spread featuring Asian and Western cuisine. Mid-range hotels and guesthouses tend to offer a more modest meal of toast or nasi lemak and a drink. For hostels, breakfast is rarely complimentary, but there is often an on-site café or mamak that offers discounts to residents.

Chinatown and around

Chinatown’s backpacker-oriented guesthouses are mostly concentrated either side of Jalan Petaling, alongside budget hotels offering simple rooms but with better facilities. Both are increasingly modern and efficiently run, though furnishings are minimal and the cheapest rooms are unlikely to have windows. Only the more upmarket places feature frills like swimming pools, though there is an ageing public pool nearby at the Chinwoo Stadium.

Hotels

Hotel 1915 49 Jalan Lebuh Ampang 03 2026 0043, hotel1915kl.com.my; map. Just walking into the lobby of this hotel, located in a beautifully renovated building that dates back to 1915, is a welcome respite from the hubbub of Chinatown. The lobby features bare brick walls, black-and-white prints and Chinese stone sculptures and vases, while the contemporary rooms are equipped with modern amenities, en-suite facilities and in-room safes. RM118

5 Elements Hotel 243 Jalan Sultan 03 2031 6888, the5elementshotel.com.my; map. Rooms are clean and comfortable at this fourteen-storey hotel, which has great views of Chinatown and beyond; the twelfth- to fourteenth-floor rooms will set you back RM35 extra. Some rooms are in better shape than others, so it’s wise to take a look at a couple before settling in. RM208

Hotel China Town 2 70–72 Jalan Petaling 03 2072 9933, hotelchinatown2.com; map. Located on bustling Jalan Petaling in the heart of Chinatown, this decent hotel offers clean rooms with private baths at affordable prices, including some singles (RM80). RM110

Geo Hotel 7 Jalan Hang Kasturi 03 2032 2288, geohotelkl.com; map. Just a few steps from the Central Market, this great-value hotel offers well-kept, white a/c rooms with chocolate-coloured fittings and flat-screen TVs; the superior rooms (RM220) are just like the standards, but also include a fresh fruit basket. The premises are strictly non-smoking, except on the third floor where all rooms are smoking. The friendly staff are an added bonus. RM195

Hotel Majestic Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin 03 2785 8000, majestickl.com; map. Opposite the old Moorish-style railway station, this hotel, a wonderfully restored 1930s building, houses exquisitely furnished suites with butler service (RM885), the fifteen-storey Art Deco Tower Wing with deluxe rooms and suites (RM745), along with a swimming pool and gym. Other facilities include a bar, spa, barber and screening room. RM540

Swiss Inn 62 Jalan Sultan 03 2072 3333, swissgarden.com; map. A pleasant surprise in the heart of Chinatown, this clean, modern hotel has a range of inviting rooms spread out over seven colour-coded floors. Rooms have tasteful furnishings and crisp linen; the executive options (RM680) are brighter thanmthe windowless regular rooms. The coffee house offers a good view of the Petaling Street market. RM560

Winsin Hotel 1–3 Jalan Petaling 03 2031 5011, winsinchinatownhotel.com.my; map. This hotel is admittedly a bit dated, but the small rooms are modern and in good nick, with en-suite facilities and a/c, and livened up with Chinese paintings. It’s well placed for Central Market, bang in the middle of the Petaling Street buzz. RM88

Hostels and guesthouses

Back Home 30 Jalan Tun H.S. Lee 03 2022 0788, backhome.com.my; map. This leafy hostel features hardwood floors, bare brick walls and comfortable, modern rooms set around a courtyard with coffee tables, where guests are invited to socialize. Staff are friendly and there’s an excellent café next door under the same management. Dorms RM60, doubles RM130

Birdnest Guesthouse 2 64 Jalan Hang Kasturi 012 694 7366, birdnestghouse.com; map. Friendly place dotted with birdcages (some made into quirky lamps) that the owner has picked up from various flea markets; the furniture is all recycled, and there’s even a rooftop café. The little rooms, with fan or a/c units, feature polished hardwood floors, with most looking onto the interior courtyard; there are three-bed female and mixed dorms too. Dorms RM30, doubles RM80

The Explorers Guesthouse 128 & 130 Jalan Tun H.S. Lee 03 2022 2928, theexplorersguesthouse.com; map. An oasis of calm in the hubbub of Chinatown, this guesthouse features a pleasant communal area with a water feature, decorative fans, dangling dream-catchers and pebble tiles in the bathrooms. The rooms are on the smallish side but are kept immaculate, as are the bathrooms, and staff will happily advise on what to see and do in the area. Dorms RM35, doubles RM95

Raizzy’s Guesthouse 165g Jalan Tun H.S. Lee 03 2022 0873, raizzy.com; map. Just a few steps from the Sri Maha Mariamman Temple, this friendly hostel offers small, darkish dorms (most are windowless or look onto the interior of the building), although the doubles are appealing enough and are a real bargain given the location. Guests are entitled to breakfast discounts at the Lucy in the Sky café next door. Dorms RM32, doubles RM78

Reggae Mansion 53 Jalan Tun H.S Lee 03 2072 6877, reggaemansionkl.com; map. Located in a three-storey colonial-era block, this is a flashpacker hostel at its best, although it is a bit of a tourist-trail factory. The spick-and-span premises are kitted out with mock-Louis XIV armchairs and prints that depict life in a British stately home. Each dorm bed is equipped with a privacy curtain, reading lamp, power socket and under-bed lockers. There’s even an in-house cinema, and the rooftop bar is one of the places to be for cheap backpacker boozing. Dorms RM48, doubles RM140

The best places to stay in KL

Best for views Traders Hotel

Best for luxury Mandarin Oriental

Best for colonial grandeur Hotel Majestic

Best for nightlife Invito Hotel Suites

Best hostel for parties Reggae Mansion

Best hostel for service Dorms KL

Little India and Chow Kit

Crossroads Hotel 1 Jalan Raja Muda Abdul Aziz 03 2698 7000, crossroads-hotel.com; map. A stone’s throw away from Chow Kit’s market, this excellent budget hotel offers immaculate rooms kitted out with dark furnishings, in a pleasant interior with bare brick walls and funky orange chairs at reception. The area of Chow Kit, however, is known for prostitution and it’s also wise to watch your wallet at all times. Breakfast is an extra RM25. RM120

Hotel De’ Grand Orchard 81–83 Medan Bunus 03 2691 2146, hoteldegrandorchard.com; map. Not to be confused with its sister hotel Grand Orchard, this budget place, just off Jalan Masjid India, features welcoming rooms with chocolate-brown furnishings, faux wooden floors and smallish, albeit very clean, bathrooms. Rates increase by RM25 over the weekends. RM120

K Hotel 142–146 Jalan TAR 03 2693 4246, khotel.com.my; map. Make your way past a yogurt shop on the ground floor and up to the bright red lobby of this recently renovated hotel. The carpeted rooms are smallish but sparklingly clean. RM168

Palace Hotel 40a Jalan Masjid India 03 2698 6122, palacehotel.com.my; map. The simple rooms at this 1960s-style hotel are decorated in beige and olive green and are a bit drab and dated, though all have a/c and the hotel is in a lively location. RM150

Premiera Hotel 232 Jalan TAR 03 2615 1000, premiera.com.my; map. In the heart of Little India and just a short walk from Chinatown, this is a great independent option offering spacious rooms with modern amenities, and wonderful views of the city from the higher floors. Note that 76 out of the hotel’s 90 rooms are twins (RM275), so if you’re after a double make sure you book ahead. RM325

Silka Maytower Hotel 7 Jalan Munshi Abdullah 03 2692 9298, silkahotels.com/maytower; map. This international-standard hotel, set over 32 floors, offers modern rooms and apartments with earthy tones, equipped with flat-screen TVs and safes; the deluxes (RM250) are more spacious, with sofas and bathtubs, and there are also two pools – one for adults, one for kids – on the eighth floor, along with a sauna and gym. Doubles RM220, studio suites RM339

Tune Hotel 316 Jalan TAR 03 2694 3301, tunehotels.com; map. AirAsia-supported no-frills hotel, which is usually quite cheap if you book early. The en-suite rooms are small and functional, with fans; you pay extra for a/c, towels, TV and the like if you want them, which can add RM45 to the basic rate. Lobby facilities amount to a couple of fast-food outlets and a convenience store. This is a hotel best booked online; the rate quoted here is for walk-ins. RM125

The Golden Triangle

Many of the Bukit Bintang guesthouses occupy nicely restored old shophouses, with small, comfortable rooms separated from each other by partitions. It’s hard to go wrong with any of these, just as it’s difficult to be badly disappointed with any of the Golden Triangle’s upmarket hotels. The area also boasts excellent serviced apartments offering a lot more space than you’d get in a similarly priced hotel room.

Hotels

Anggun Boutique Hotel 7 & 9 Tengkat Tong Shin 03 2145 8003, anggunkl.com; map. This welcoming boutique hotel aims to recreate a Peranakan house from yesteryear, with rooms set around an airy central courtyard with a little fishpond and a lovely antique Chinese medicine cabinet. Some have four-poster beds, while the three suites have balconies overlooking the street; bathrooms feature beautiful Chinese sinks with lotus and fish motifs. RM315

Dorsett Regency 172 Jalan Imbi 03 2716 1000, dorsettregency.com; map. Within a rather unappealing salmon-pink tower block lies this great-value mid-range hotel with modern rooms, some with superb views of the Petronas Towers; facilities include a small pool. The central location is a real plus – it’s just a couple of minutes’ walk from Starhill Gallery and Pavilion mall, while the bars and clubs of Changkat Bukit Bintang are a 15min walk away. RM420

Fraser Place 10 Jalan Perak 03 2118 6288, frasershospitality.com; map. Right by the Petronas Towers and KLCC, Fraser Place offers stylish, excellent-value rooms between the ninth and thirtieth floors of a retail and office complex. All rooms feature floor-to-ceiling windows boasting wonderful city views, and facilities include a well-equipped gym and eighteenth-floor infinity swimming pool. RM405

Invito Hotel Suites 1 Lorong Ceylon, Bukit Ceylon 02 2386 9288, invitohotelsuites.com.my; map. The elegantly furnished family rooms and studio suites feature modern designs and the higher floors boast terrific city views from the floor-to-ceiling windows. All rooms are equipped with kitchenettes, and there’s a particularly inviting pool, well-equipped gym and comfy TV lounge, too. RM420

Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur City Centre (KLCC) 03 2380 8888, mandarinoriental.com; map. Enormous hotel – it only looks small by virtue of being conveniently next to the Twin Towers – that’s as sumptuous as they come, with its own luxury spa, swimming pools, tennis courts and tiptop restaurants. Rooms are spacious and feature lovely KLCC Park or Petronas Tower views. RM630

Marriott 183 Jalan Bukit Bintang 03 2715 9000, marriott.com; map. In the heart of Bukit Bintang and with direct access to chic Starhill Gallery from the lobby, this branch offers well-appointed rooms with modern amenities, a huge pool, spa facilities and well-equipped gym. RM645

Hotel Maya 138 Jalan Ampang 03 2711 8866, hotelmaya.com.my; map. This stylish boutique hotel is sandwiched between two office blocks in the heart of KL’s commercial district; the contemporary rooms with wooden floorboards feature modern amenities and floor-to-ceiling glass panels overlooking the city. There’s an inviting hydrotherapy pool with massage jets, a welcome treat after a long day in the hustle and bustle of the capital, along with a gym and access to yoga classes. RM371

The Mesui Hotel 9 Jalan Mesui 03 2144 8188, themesuihotel.com; map. Located in a unique building with a design that reflects the 1970s – porthole windows and retro furnishings – this contemporary hotel offers tasteful rooms decorated with fun wall designs; “loft” rooms (RM146) are substantially larger than those in the entry-level “lush” category, but all are inviting and spick-and-span. RM138

Metro Hotel 208 Jalan Pudu 03 2143 7001, metrohotel.com.my; map. This budget business hotel offers clean, carpeted rooms with crisp linen, just a few steps from Imbi monorail station and Berjaya Times Square. Breakfast is an extra RM20. RM150

Myhotel 120 Jalan Pudu 03 2143 5000, myhotels.com.my; map. Budget business hotel, offering the usual value-conscious, low-frills rooms: trim modern furnishings, en-suite bathrooms and a/c, with little space for anything else. RM20 extra gets you a window. RM130

Renaissance Junction of Jalan Sultan Ismail and Jalan Ampang 03 2162 2233, marriott.com; map. Part of the Marriott group, this sumptuous hotel overlooking the Petronas Towers features two wings with well-appointed rooms, an Olympic-sized swimming pool, spa and fitness centre, along with a number of dining outlets. RM680

Swiss Garden 117 Jalan Pudu 03 2141 3333, swissgarden.com; map. This substantial modern hotel, which also features good-value serviced apartments (RM330), is conveniently located at the edge of Bukit Bintang and halfway to Chinatown. Facilities include satellite TV, a couple of restaurants plus a pool, gym and spa. RM290

Traders Hotel Kuala Lumpur City Centre (KLCC) 03 2332 9888, tradershotels.com; map. This great four-star hotel offers direct access to Suria KLCC mall – hotel buggies shuttle customers across the park to the mall. The well-appointed rooms feature modern amenities, and some have exceptional views of the Petronas Towers. The real draw is the hotel’s Sky Bar, on the 33rd floor, which is one of the city’s most popular bars with 360-degree views of the capital. The hotel has four food outlets, including a steakhouse. RM460

Villa Samadhi 218 Jalan Ampang 03 2143 2300, villasamadhi.com.my; map. This luxurious villa has been converted into a sumptuous boutique hotel. The rooms, decorated with Asian furnishings, brim with individual character – the Sarang rooms feature their own private plunge pools, while the cosy Loft room, with its slanted ceiling, has its own shallow lap pool. Lower-ground floor rooms have direct access to the lagoon pool from their private balconies. RM900

The Yard Boutique Hotel Lot 623, 51d Jalan Tengkat Tong Shin 03 2110 2449, theyard.com.my; map. Calling this place a boutique hotel may be a bit of an overstatement – it’s more of a very pleasant guesthouse, offering comfortable modern rooms set around a courtyard dripping with greenery and dotted with lanterns. The location, tucked away off Jalan Tengkat Tong Shin in the heart of Bukit Bintang, is a definite plus. RM180

hostels and Guesthouses

Classic Inn 36 Jalan 1/77a, Changkat Thambi Dollah 03 2148 8648, classicinn.com.my; map. Don’t be put off by the anonymous backstreet location, nor the word “inn”; this pleasant guesthouse with wooden corridors and little piles of decorative pebbles has modern en-suite rooms with a/c and TV, and there’s a peaceful café area with rustic wooden stools. A sister building a few doors down offers backpacker accommodation with travellers’ notes plastered over the walls; the dorms are probably the tiniest you will ever come across. Dorms RM50, doubles RM135

Dorms KL 5 Tengkat Tong Shin 03 2110 1221; map. Modern backpacker place with funky interior mural, smart black and white decor and a buzzing communal space. It has an amazing location in between Jalan Alor and Bukit Bintang; the friendly and knowledgeable owners are also in charge of the neighbouring TG’s Nasi Kandar restaurant and do food promotions. Dorms with bunk beds only. RM35

Orange Pekoe Guesthouse 1-1 Jalan Angsoka, off Jalan Nagasari 03 2110 2000, orangepekoe.com.my; map. This cosy guesthouse, on a quiet road just a couple of streets back from Changkat’s throng of activity, has clean and cosy rooms with wicker baskets as bedside tables. There are splashes of greenery throughout, and a communal area with cable TV and DVDs. RM105

Rainforest Bed & Breakfast 27 Jalan Mesui 03 2145 3525, rainforestbnbhotel.com; map. A welcoming place that creates a jungle lodge ambience with plenty of greenery complemented by tasteful wooden furniture. The clean and tidy rooms are all en suite, with TVs, and there are a couple of small dorms sleeping three. Really, it’s more of a boutique hostel than a B&B, though breakfast is indeed included. Dorms RM35, doubles RM109

Sahabat Guesthouse 39 & 41 Jalan Sahabat, off Tengkat Tong Shin 03 2142 0689, sahabatguesthouse.com; map. The fourteen rooms at this bright blue guesthouse, just a few steps away from Changkat’s numerous bars, are named after spices. Each room is individually decorated with colourful wallpaper (stripes or rectangles) and has en-suite facilities. There’s a little communal area where guests can socialize, and staff are always happy to help with suggestions on the area. RM109

Travellers Palm Lodge 10 Jalan Rembia 03 2145 4745, travellerspalm-kl.com; map. This gorgeous little guesthouse with seven rooms is located down a lane off Tengkat Tong Shin and fronted by two travellers’ palms in the tiny front garden. The colour-coded rooms are on the smallish side, although they are secure – only guests have a front gate key. The smiley owner makes guests feel right at home. Dorms RM35, doubles RM90

Tropical Guesthouse KL 2 Tengkat Tong Shin 03 2141 1168, tropicalguesthousekl.blogspot.my; map. A pleasant choice with leafy bamboo and pebble walkways leading to a myriad of cosy little rooms that are kept clean and tidy. Couples can opt for the two larger rooms that are interestingly named “sexy room” and “horny room” (RM120). RM80

Serviced apartments

Fahrenheit Suites Fifth floor, Fahrenheit 88 Mall, 179 Jalan Bukit Bintang 03 2148 2686, fahrenheitsuites.com; map. Modern serviced apartments, including some sleeping up to six, with their own pleasant lounge, kitchenette, plus use of swimming pool. Parking available. Occasional excellent online rates. RM360

Pacific Regency Hotel Suites KH Tower, Jalan Punchak, off Jalan P. Ramlee 03 2332 7777, pacific-regency.com; map. Luxury apartments with kitchenettes, huge bathrooms, satellite TVs and, on the roof, a swimming pool and the excellent Luna bar. Ample parking too. Check the website for promotional rates. RM400

Seri Bukit Ceylon 8 Lorong Ceylon 03 2055 8887, hotelabest-kl.com map. Popular with executive types, these immaculate studio, one-, two and three-bed apartments in a well-located tower block are equipped with swish furnishings and satellite TV/DVD systems. Facilities include a rooftop pool and sauna, along with a gym, shop and restaurant. RM345

Brickfields and KL Sentral

Hilton 3 Jalan Stesen Sentral 03 2264 2264, kuala-lumpur.hilton.com; map. Overlooking the National Museum and just a few steps from KL Sentral, this stylish hotel with a lavish lobby offers rooms as modern and comfortable as you’d expect from this reputable international chain. Facilities include ten dining outlets; the trendy Zeta Bar hosts international live bands and resident DJs. RM470

Le Meridien 2 Jalan Stesen Sentral 03 2263 7888, lemeridienkualalumpur.com; map. This 35-storey business hotel houses contemporary rooms; most of them boast panoramic views. Facilities include a freeform outdoor swimming pool with deckchairs partly immersed in water, a gym, spa and a handful of restaurants serving international cuisine. RM850

YMCA 95 Jalan Padang Belia 03 2274 1439, ymcakl.com; map. This institutional place has been here since 1931, though rooms have been recently upgraded and there are plenty of facilities including a café, laundry and even tennis courts (you’ll need your own gear, though). Rates include breakfast. RM99

Further out

Carcosa Seri Negara Taman Tasik Perdana 03 2295 0888, shr.my; map. Set in sixteen hectares of well-manicured grounds just west of the Lake Gardens, these two elegant, whitewashed colonial mansions, containing thirteen suites between them, date to 1904 – the management can truthfully boast “Queen Elizabeth slept here”. If a night here is out of the question, consider donning smart-casual clothes and dropping in for their English cream tea (daily 3–6pm; RM80). RM800

Grid 9 Hotel 9 Jalan Maharajalela 03 9226 2629, grid9hotels.com; map. This excellent flashpacker hostel has a young and funky feel, with a welcoming lounge area dotted with colourful beanbags, communal computers, a pool table and flat-screen TV. The modern dorm rooms have reading lamps and individual sockets, while private doubles have a/c, TV and en-suite facilities. Guests enjoy complimentary access to Zouk club. Dorms RM45, doubles RM135

Eating

Without doubt, a highlight of any visit to KL is the city’s food. There are more opportunities to enjoy high-calibre cooking here, in assorted local and international styles, than anywhere else in the country, and whether you dine in a chic bistro-style restaurant or at a humble roadside stall, prices are almost always very reasonable. Despite plenty of scope for cosmopolitan, upmarket dining, eating for many locals is still fundamentally about Malay, Chinese and Indian street food. Stalls, whether on the street or collected into food courts (found in or close to major office blocks and shopping malls), are your best bets for inexpensive, satisfying meals, as are kedai kopis, though these are a little scarce in the Golden Triangle. The best-known food stalls are held in the same kind of reverence as a top-flight restaurant might be in a Western city, and people will travel across KL just to seek out a stall whose take on a particular dish is said to be better than anyone else’s; if you find customers lining up to partake of some stall’s spring rolls or laksa, it’s a sure-fire indicator of quality. Ranging from small affairs in beautifully refurbished shophouses to banqueting halls in five-star hotels, KL’s restaurants are an equally vital part of the food experience. Be aware, however, that price and decor are not a watertight indicator of consistency or quality, and that service can be unhurried, even in big hotels.

KUALA LUMPUR’S top RESTAURANTS and cafés

Best for curries Nagasari Curry House

Best for dumplings Din Tai Fung

Best for colonial atmosphere Old China Café

Best for luxury Cantaloupe

Best for coffee Feeka

Best for brunch Acme Bar & Coffee

Chinatown and around

Superb food stalls in Chinatown serve up everything from rich yet subtle bak kut teh (pork-rib consommé) to cooling sweet treats like cendol. Foreign visitors can find it hard to get to grips with the smaller stalls, especially as some are signed only in Chinese or not at all. Still, for an excellent taster of how they operate, and of street food in general, try the Tang City Food Court. Otherwise, the area has plenty of kedai kopis and a few cheap or mid-priced restaurants, with some touristy places at the eastern end of Jalan Hang Lekir. You’re not limited to Chinese food; the fringes of Chinatown, especially north of Jalan Hang Lekir and around the Central Market, feature plenty of restuarants and mamaks.

Bbun Lot 265 Jalan Hang Lekir 016 666 8704; map. This stall stands out, with its sparkling shelves and neatly arrayed freshly baked buns and roti (RM3) that come in five types: stuffed with chocolate, coffee, chocolate lava, blueberry and durian – the perfect snack as you explore Chinatown. They have home-made sorbet ice cream too, including mango and soursop (RM6.90). Daily 10am–10pm.

Central Market Food Court Jalan Hang Kasturi 016 555 9839, centralmarket.com.my; map. The Central Market has plenty of excellent outlets specializing in food from different corners of the Peninsula and beyond, from traditional Nyonya food (RM10) to Japanese crepes (RM8). Daily 10am–9.30pm.

Contango Hotel Majestic, Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin 03 2785 8000, majestickl.com; map. Within the Majestic Hotel, this contemporary restaurant features a lively open kitchen with an incredible selection of cuisines on offer: Indian, Chinese, Japanese and Western, including Italian and grilled dishes. The buffet (breakfast RM68; lunch RM95 weekdays, RM105 weekends; dinner RM115 weekdays, RM125 weekends) includes a delectable selection of desserts, and can feature a free flow of wine (just add RM60). Daily 6.30am–11am, noon–3pm & 6.30–10.30pm.

Lai Foong 138 Jalan Tun H.S. Lee 03 2072 8123; map. The six stalls at this historic kopitiam rustle up all manner of local delicacies including noodle and rice dishes – try the Hainanese beef noodle (RM8), flavoured with herbs and served with not only beef slices but also tripe. Daily 6.30am–9pm.

Lokl Coffee Co. 30 Jalan Tun H.S. Lee 03 2072 1188, loklcoffee.com; map. Small and welcoming café, under the same management as the Back Home hostel, which is a great spot for a mid-morning snack or light lunch (set lunch of soup and main RM27) as you explore Chinatown and Little India. The interior is cosy with wooden tables and bare brick walls, and the menu offers a selection of pastries as well as Western dishes including burgers (RM21). Daily 8am–6pm.

Lucy in the Sky 167 Jalan Tun H.S. Lee 03 2022 1526, facebook.com/lucyintheskykl; map. Located in a former warehouse, this café has pleasant staff and a minimalist interior, featuring bare brick walls and spotlights, and offers Western dishes including pastas (RM16), burgers (RM20) and all-day breakfasts such as French toast (RM20). Tues–Sun 8am–6pm.

Nam Heong 56 Jalan Sultan 03 2078 5879; map. Original Hainanese chicken rice is rustled up in front of your very eyes as you enter this popular, spick-and-span restaurant, which attracts those in the know in Chinatown. A meal (the recipe of which won’t have changed much in thirty years) will set you back about RM10. Daily 10am–3pm.

Old China Café 11 Jalan Balai Polis 03 2072 5915, oldchina.com.my; map. Wonderfully atmospheric café set in a pre-World War I shophouse with old-world charm; much of the decor, including the saloon-style swing doors at the entrance, is original and lovingly preserved. Must-trys include the classic Peranakan dish pie tee (RM8), rice flour cones stuffed with minced chicken and vegetables, and ikan asam (RM21), mackerel cooked in tamarind. Daily 11.30am–11pm.

Penjaja Gallery Jalan Tun H.S. Lee & Jalan Petaling; map. It’s worth heading into the alleyway that connects Jalan Petaling with Jalan Tun H.S. Lee to get a feel for life in Chinatown – vendors here display all manner of meats, vegetables and other foods, and there are a handful of great stalls where you can sample local dishes such as curry laksa (RM4) as a morning snack. Tues–Sun 7am–2pm.

Purple Cane Tea House Third floor, 6 Jalan Panggong 03 2072 1349; map. This calm and peaceful retreat from Chinatown’s hubbub serves a range of speciality Chinese teas. Customers are invited to remove their shoes before taking a seat at wooden benches or on cushions at low tables. Teas are ceremoniously served (RM5–20 depending on tea type), and the menu even features simmered black tea giant drumstick rice (RM12) as well as tea eggs (RM3.50), which, as the name suggests, have been boiled in tea. Daily 11am–7pm.

Santa 11 Jalan Tun H.S. Lee 019 269 9771; map. This laidback restaurant hums with activity at lunchtime, when locals flock here for the freshly made chapatti (RM1.50) and kimma mutton (RM3), which are undoubtedly among the best in town. Mon–Fri 6.30am–6.30pm, Sat 6.30am–3pm.

Yusoof Dan Zakhir 44 Jalan Hang Kasturi 03 2026 8685; map. Clean and friendly diner, offering tasty dishes including great roti nan with chicken tandoori (RM7), fish head curry (RM15) and nasi biriyani (RM9). Portions are generous and, inside, the piped Islamic music doesn’t intrude as much as you’d think from the street. Daily 6am–11pm.

Zuliani Corner Jalan Hang Lekir & Jalan Tun H.S. Lee 010 287 2216; map. Just across the road from Popular Bookshop, this little stall churns out excellent Muslim Indian rojak (RM5) – fried dough fritters with potatoes, bean curd, egg and shredded cucumbers mixed with a sweet and spicy peanut sauce. Mon–Sat 9.30am–7pm.

Jalan Alor: KL’S outdoor food haven

Along with numerous restaurants, the Golden Triangle also boasts one of KL’s best alfresco experiences in Jalan Alor. The street actually has a double layer of food outlets: the open-fronted restaurants that line the street, and the food stalls arranged in front of them. The food is predominantly Chinese, with a strong seafood bias – and some of the city’s tastiest Hokkien noodles, comprising egg noodles fried in lard, seasoned with dark soy sauce and garnished with prawn, pork and fishcake slices, and greens – but there are plenty of Thai and Malaysian options too, plus fresh fruit and drink vendors. It all fires up from 6pm, and the stalls stay open well into the small hours. Some menus omit prices, so fix them when ordering to avoid nasty surprises when the bill arrives. Cheaper dining options are easy to find, but the experience is worth the extra spend; dishes cost RM8–25, and you can usually order small, medium or large portions.

The Golden Triangle and Kampung Bahru

Acme Bar & Coffee (ABC) Ground floor, The Troika, 19 Persiaran KLCC 03 2162 2288, acmebarcoffee.com; map. The interior of this stylish coffee house and restaurant is reminiscent of a warehouse, with floor-to-ceiling windows, low-hanging light bulbs and exposed pipe work. It’s good for soups (RM25), salads (RM27), pastas (RM30) and other international favourites from salmon fillet to smoked duck breast, as well as all-day weekend brunches. There are sister restaurants in Pavilion and Bangsar. Mon–Thurs 11am–midnight, Fri 11am–1am, Sat 9.30am–1am, Sun 9.30am–midnight.

Ben’s First floor, Suria KLCC mall 03 2163 1655, thebiggroup.co; map. Part of one of KL’s most reputable F&B chains, this is a reliable choice serving international cuisine in a pleasant setting modelled after a Manhattan townhouse. The menu includes soups (RM16), salads (RM22), sandwiches (RM20) and pies (RM26), along with more substantial mains such as steak frites (RM65). Also has branches in Bangsar and Pavilion. Daily 10am–11pm.

Cantaloupe Level 23A, Tower B, The Troika, 19 Persiaran KLCC 03 2162 0886, troikaskydining.com; map. This swanky French restaurant, on the top floor of KL’s swish Norman Foster building, offers fine dining and a bird’s-eye view of the city. The popular Sunday lunch (RM150) is a favourite among well-heeled Malays and expats alike, with dishes changing seasonally – expect the likes of smoked duck and caramelized onion bread, roast chicken and sage anchovy butter, and soursop jalousies. Daily noon–2.30am & 6–10.30pm.

Din Tai Fung Level 6, Pavilion KL mall 03 2148 8292, dintaifung.com.my; map. This superb Michelin-starred Taiwanese light-meal chain specializes in Shanghainese xiao long bao – little pork dumplings served in a bamboo steamer, eaten dipped in ginger vinegar. You can watch the chefs at work at the open kitchen, painstakingly cutting out and stuffing each dumpling with minced pork and shrimp (RM15.80/six pieces). Mon–Sat 10.30am–10pm, Sun 10am–10pm.

Feeka 19 Jalan Mesui 03 2110 4599 asianagegroup.com; map. Pleasant coffee house in a renovated shophouse, serving locally roasted beans and home-made pastries (RM7), as well as a smattering of light meals including omelettes (RM18) and French toast (RM17). It’s a great spot to refuel for the morning after a long night out. Daily 8am–11pm.

Hakka 6 Jalan Kia Peng 03 2143 1908; map. Excellent open-air Chinese restaurant, with seating under twinkling fairy lights, serving top-notch Hakka cuisine. The seafood is particularly good, although there are plenty of other dishes on offer including vegetables and even ostrich. Mains from RM15. Daily noon–3pm & 6–11.30pm.

Lot 10 Hutong Basement, Lot 10 Mall, Jalan Bukit Bintang; map. This evocative, modern take on heritage food, located in the basement of Lot 10 mall, offers a plethora of authentic Malay and Chinese meals. With over 900 dishes on offer, there’s plenty of choice, from hokkian mee noodles to freshly made siew bao. A dish will set you back about RM12. Daily 10am–10pm.

Luk Yu Tea House Basement, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jalan Bukit Bintang 03 2782 3850, starhillgallery.com; map. Shaped like a teapot, this welcoming place is more of a restaurant than a teahouse, with excellent Hong Kong-style pork-free dim sum (RM10) and other Chinese favourites; needless to say, there are plenty of fine teas too, including silver needle jasmine and ginseng oolong. Mon–Sat noon–11pm, Sun 10am–10pm.

The Magnificent Fish & Chips Bar 28 Changkat Bukit Bintang 03 2142 7021; map. This funky restaurant with British-inspired decor (take a look at the first floor, with Minis “crashed” into the wall) truly lives up to its name, with excellent battered fish and chips (RM22) served in newspaper wrappings – there are four types of fish to choose from, including Icelandic cod and barramundi. The menu, scribbled in chalk on blackboards, includes plenty of other British staples such as Guinness and steak pie (RM32) and full all-day English breakfasts (RM28), too. Daily 9am–3am.

Marble 8 Steakhouse 163 Jalan Binjai 03 2386 6030, marble-8.com; map. Exceptional upmarket steakhouse serving fine cuts of wet-aged Wagyu (RM358) and Black Angus (RM138) beef, with unparalleled views of the Twin Towers. The Privé lounge offers a fine collection of whiskies and cigars, and a selection of pre-or post-prandial cocktails. Mon–Fri & Sun noon–2.30pm & 7–11pm, Sat 7–11pm.

Muar 6g Tengkat Tong Shin 03 2144 2072; map. This great restaurant in the heart of bustling Bukit Bintang offers a chance to try specialities from Muar, a little town that is renowned for its tasty variations of Chinese and Malay dishes. The menu includes the likes of butter kalian (RM11), deep-fried vegetables with butter and evaporated milk, and crispy fried egg (RM7). Tues–Sun 11am–3pm & 6–10pm.

Nagasari Curry House 17-1 Jalan Angsoka; map. This no-frills curry house buzzes with customers and dishes out some of the best curries you’ll find in the city; it offers a range of tasty North and South Indian dishes including tandoori chicken (RM9), chicken tikka (RM14.50) and vegetable banana-leaf curries (RM7.50). Daily 24hr.

Neroteca Unit G-1, Seri Bukit Ceylon, 8 Lorong Ceylon 03 2070 0530, neroteca.com; map. This stylish Italian restaurant has floor-to-ceiling shelves lined with wine bottles, and a deli counter displaying meats and cheese. There’s a wide selection of cold cuts and platters of antipasti, and it’s a great spot for a boozy Sunday brunch. At RM98 (RM148 with unlimited – selected – wines and Prosecco) it doesn’t come cheap, but you won’t be leaving hungry. Sister venue Nerovivo, just around the corner, is a slightly more upmarket venue with some wonderful seafood on offer. Daily 11am–3pm & 6–11.30pm.

Pinchos 18 Changkat Bukit Bintang 03 2145 8482, pinchoskl.com; map. Authentic tapas and pinchos (RM11–26) are served at this bustling Spanish tapas bar, which gets packed in the evenings. The atmosphere is warm and cosy, with seating at the bar or at wooden tables, and service is friendly and efficient. The dates wrapped in bacon are to die for. Tues–Sun 5pm–3am.

Sao Nam 25 Tengkat Tong Shin 03 2144 1225, saonam.com.my; map. This welcoming Vietnamese restaurant continues to attract plenty of custom mainly thanks to the plethora of awards it has won in the past. The dishes are still very good, with the likes of deep-fried chicken spring rolls (RM21) and house speciality mangosteen and prawn salad (RM36), all served beneath wall posters extolling the collectivist life. Tues–Fri 12.30–2.30pm & 7.30–10.30pm.

Shook! Basement, Starhill Gallery 181 Jalan Bukit Bintang 03 2782 3875, starhillgallery.com; map. Attracting celebrities and moneyed Malaysians and expats, this interactive restaurant with four show kitchens offers Japanese, Chinese, Italian and Western grill dishes. There’s an extensive wine list (the walk-in cellar holds more than three thousand bottles), and the daily live jazz adds a nice touch to the restaurant’s already appealing ambience. The crunchy snow-white dancing prawn starter (lightly wok-fried prawns coated in a hot mayonnaise and honey-glazed walnut sauce; RM58) is an absolute must. Daily 6am–11pm.

Sushi Hinata A-01, St Mary Residence, 1 Jalan Tengah 03 2022 1349, shin-hinata.com; map. Touted as one of the capital’s best Japanese restaurants, this superb place specializes in sushi and fine cuts of sashimi. Ingredients are flown in from Japan, and dishes are expertly prepared by the experienced Japanese chef at the open counter. Mon–Sat noon–3pm & 6–11pm.

TG’s Nasi Kandar 3 Tengkat Tong Shin, 03 2110 1221, map. Offers simply the best naan breads in Bukit Bintang, within walking distance of Changkat. They also do a range of delicious north Indian specialities like chicken kadai (RM13) and a savoury pancake murtabak with meat and/or cheese (RM11), plus fresh juices (RM5) and a self-service curried vegetable (from RM4) counter.Daily 24hr.

Thai Somtam Seafood 88 Changkat Bukit Bintang 014 637 6583; map. You climb up a flight of little steps to reach this unassuming Thai place, which rustles up some pretty tasty grub, including an exceptionally spicy papaya salad (RM12) and other tasty Thai specials such as green chicken curry (RM18). Daily 11am–11.30pm.

twenty.one 20–1 Changkat Bukit Bintang 03 2142 0021, drbar.asia; map. This trendy place is a restaurant, bar and club all in one. The modern European cuisine has an Asian touch and is top-notch, and the meal and drink lunch deal, including creamy salmon fettucini, is a steal (RM19). Cocktails (from just RM12) are enjoyed on the modish first-floor balcony that overlooks the hustle and bustle of Changkat Bukit Bintang. Mains from RM25. Daily noon–2am.

Zenzero A-09 Ground floor, St Mary Place, 1 Jalan Tengah 03 2022 3883, zenzero.com.my; map. Understated casual-chic interior and refined cuisine, prepared by an experienced Italian chef. The menu changes seasonally and the wine list includes an excellent selection from Italy and beyond. Express lunch such as crochetta di carne and a drink is a bargain at RM30, and a la carte mains start from RM48. Mon–Fri & Sun noon–2.30pm & 6–11pm, Sat 6–11pm.

Little India, Chow Kit and beyond

Little India is a good area for both Indian and Malay food – inexpensive Indian restaurants and sweetmeat shops are ranged along Jalan Melayu, while in nearby Lorong Tuanku Abdul Rahman’s pasar malam are quite a few Malay food stalls and Indian kedai kopis, and a useful food court opposite the Palace Hotel stays open late. A few truly venerable kedai kopis, some housed in equally impressive shophouses, can be found along hectic Jalan TAR, while there are more stalls, Malay and even Indonesian, around Chow Kit Market.

Capital Café 213 Jalan TAR 03 2698 2884; map. Locals flock to this endearing and enduring family-run kedai kopis, which first opened its doors in 1956 for morning nasi lemak (RM4) or toast with kaya (coconut jam) or honey (RM2.50); plenty of other dishes are offered at lunch, including beef rendang (RM5) and fried noodles (RM4), while the sizzling satay, said to be one of the best in town (ten sticks RM10) is available from 5pm. Mon–Fri 7am–8pm, Sat 10am–8pm.

Jai Hind 13 Jalan Melayu 03 2692 0041; map. Friendly kedai kopis which, besides an impressively wide-ranging spread of curries and stir-fries, also has an extensive menu of North Indian savouries and sweets, as good as you’ll get in smarter restaurants but at half the price. Around RM15–18 should be enough to see you full. Daily 8am–9pm.

Kedai Makanan Sithique 237 Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman; map. One of a handful of popular kedai kopis specializing in nasi kandar with chicken (RM7) or fish (RM5); fluffy roti canai and thosai are made on the spot, along with pretty tasty mee goreng (RM4). Daily 7am–7.30pm.

Syed Bistro 57 Jalan Dang Wangi syedbistro.com; map. This laidback place proudly boasts they have “the one and only biriyani” and in all fairness it’s pretty tasty – there’s chicken (RM13), mutton (RM16) and lamb (RM25), as well as a selection of fiery curries and freshly baked roti canai to choose from. Daily 24hr.

Brickfields

Annalakshmi Temple of Fine Arts, 116 Jalan Berhala 03 2272 3799, annalakshmi.com.my; map. This community-run South Indian vegetarian restaurant, with a warm and welcoming ethnic interior, offers a stupendous eat-all-you-want lunchtime buffet for RM16; in the evenings it’s a la carte only, and the profits go to support various projects. There’s a small, informal canteen in the car park beneath the building, where you pay what you feel the meal is worth. Smart-casual dress; no shorts, sports clothes or open shoes. Tues–Sun 11.30am–3pm & 6.30–10pm.

Gem 124 Jalan Tun Sambanthan 03 2260 1373; map. Reliable, moderately smart restaurant serving South Indian chicken, mutton and seafood curries. The vegetarian thali costs around RM15. Conveniently close to the Monorail station. Daily 11.30am–11.30pm.

Saravanaa Bhavan 196 Jalan Tun Sambathan 03 2260 3755, saravanabhavan.com; map. One of a slightly eccentric Madras-based chain of vegetarian restaurants that’s spread as far afield as London and New York. Concentrate on the South Indian dishes – dosai, idli, uthapam and so forth – and be warned that spicing can be incendiary. Inexpensive, with main courses under RM12. Daily 7.30am–11pm.

Sri Devi 9 Jalan Travers 03 2260 1553; map. Widely reckoned to sell some of Brickfields’ best Indian food, this little place does excellent banana-leaf curries from noon onwards and wonderful dosai (RM6) all day. Daily 7am–11pm.

Bangsar Baru

The small grid of streets known as Bangsar Baru, 5km southwest of Chinatown, is one of several satellite suburbs known for smart restaurants and bars, as well as a very upcoming speakeasy culture. Bus #822 travels to Bangsar from the Sultan Mohamed terminal in Chinatown, via KL Sentral. Bangsar LRT station isn’t convenient for Bangsar Baru, as it’s some way downhill with busy highways to cross in between. A taxi from Chinatown shouldn’t cost more than RM10.

Alexis Bistro 29 Jalan Telawi 3 03 2284 2880, alexis.com.my; map. This sleek café, bistro and wine-bar is worth visiting for its delectable cakes alone (RM15), although the menu includes Asian and Western dishes, along with hearty breakfasts (RM32); it’s popular among expats and well-heeled Malaysians, especially for live music. Daily 9am–2am.

La Bodega 16 Jalan Telawi 2 03 2287 8318, bodega.com.my; map. This well-liked tapas chain attracts a loyal expat following for its tapas (from RM14), paella (RM35) and wine buffets (RM120); this branch is augmented by a lounge and deli that serves imported Spanish produce. Daily 10am–2am.

Mercat 51g Jalan Telawi 3 03 2201 5288, mercat.my; map. Catalan gastro-bar with walls embellished with sketches of Barcelona’s landmarks. Exceptional tapas include patatas bravas (creamy potato nuggets; RM22) and Catalan fuet (succulent pork salami; RM19), as well as more substantial mains including Iberico meatballs of minced pork and beef served with cuttlefish and peas (RM39). Tues–Fri 4–11pm, Sat & Sun 11am–11pm.

Rendez-vous 100 Lorong Maarof 03 2202 0206; map. Another expat favourite, this restaurant serves authentic French food at very reasonable prices. The regularly changing menu includes the classics with an emphasis on seafood, such as a platter of oysters, langoustine, whelks, prawns, cockles, clams and winkles (around RM120). Tues–Sun noon–3pm & 6pm–1am.

Sri Nirwana Maju 43 Jalan Telawi 3 03 2287 8445; map. This hugely popular banana-leaf curry house with canteen decor stands out in the swanky Telawi area of Bangsar, and attracts crowds for its excellent dishes such as mutton varuval and fried squid (around RM9). Be prepared to queue. Daily 10am–2am.

WTF 98 Lorong Maarof 019 261 7070, wtfrestaurants.com.my; map. It actually stands for What Tasty Food, and so it is – this place serves excellent Indian vegetarian dishes, although there are also other cuisines to choose from including Chinese, Mexican and Italian. Mon–Thurs 11.30am–10pm, Fri–Sun 11.30am–11pm.

Yeast 24g Jalan Telawi 2 03 2282 0118, yeastbistronomy.com; map. A boulangerie, bistro and bar all in one, this is a great spot for a morning coffee and croissant (RM4.50), home-made granola (RM16) or for more substantial dinners. The experienced French chef rustles up exceptional dishes including boeuf bourguignon (RM78) and steak tartare (RM55). Mon–Thurs & Sun 8am–10pm, Fri & Sat 8am–10.30pm.

Drinking

KL’s most fashionable bars and clubs are concentrated in the Golden Triangle, while Bangsar also plays host to a few slick bars. Only during Ramadan are both the bars (and clubs) distinctly quiet. Beer in KL costs around RM22 a pint (when available on draught; bottles and cans are more common), a couple of ringgit less during the happy hours that most places offer. Note that it’s common for a sixteen-percent tax to be added to alcohol, so be prepared for a larger bill than you first thought.

KUALA LUMPUR’S best PLACES TO DRINK

Best for views Heli Lounge

Best bar with rooftop pool Luna Bar

Best hotel bar Sky Bar

Best for high-class opulence Marini’s

Best Irish pub Healy Mac’s

Best for international live music Alexis Bistro

Best for jazz No Black Tie

Best for old-school tunes Havana

Best for craft beer Taps

Best for whisky and cigars The Roof

Best club Zouk

CHINATOWN AND AROUND

Reggae Bar 158 Jalan Tun H.S. Lee, Chinatown 03 2041 8163; map. No-frills bar that’s very popular with backpackers, though a few locals drop by too. The walls are plastered with Bob Marley memorabilia, though the DJs do recognize that other reggae artists are available. Daily noon–2am.

Rooftop Mansion 53 Jalan Tun H.S. Lee, Chinatown 03 2072 6878; map. Rooftop bar and chillout space with pool table on top of the Reggae Mansion hostel. As such it’s very popular with backpackers and expats; the cocktails are vicious and thus very popular. Daily noon–2am.

LITTLE INDIA, CHOW KIT AND BEYOND

Coliseum Café 98–100 & 102 Jalan TAR 03 2692 6270, coliseum1921.com; map. Endearingly antiquated – or creakingly ancient – the bar here has a rich history (it was established in 1921) and a relaxed atmosphere; some of the furnishings date back to the 1920s, although the original tables and stools didn’t make it to the present day. Sip a Gunner A (the bar’s signature cocktail of ginger beer, ginger ale and angostura bitters; RM10.50) and imagine the planters and colonial administrators of yesteryear who once gathered here to quench their thirst. Daily 10am–10pm.

THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE AND KAMPUNG BAHRU

Fuego Level 23A, Tower B, the Troika, 19 Persiaran KLCC 03 2162 0886, troikaskydining.com; map. As you’d expect from a 23rd-floor location, this tapas bar with open-air seating boasts stunning views of the cityscape; it’s a great spot for a sundowner as you watch the sun set over the Twin Towers – the views don’t get much better than this. Daily 6.30pm–1am.

The Green Man 40 Changkat Bukit Bintang 03 2141 9924, greenman.com.my; map. This small, likeable venue serves good traditional pub grub, including pork pies and bangers and mash, washed down with a refreshing pint (RM25) or jug (RM50) of lager. It gets particularly busy when there’s football or rugby on TV. Daily 1pm–2am.

Healy Mac’s 38 Changkat Bukit Bintang 03 2144 5778, healymacs.com; map. Quintessential Irish pub in the middle of Changkat with good Guinness and cocktails (RM25). The quiz on Monday nights is usually a raucous and entertaining affair that’s popular with Westerners and locals alike, and all major sports matches are shown on the multiple TV screens. It has sister branches on Jalan P Ramlee, Mont Kiara and beyond. Daily 1pm–3am.

Heli Lounge Level 34, Menara KH, 1 Jalan Sultan Ismail 03 2110 5034; map. Hidden gem turned talk of the town, this aeronautics-themed venue features an active helipad that becomes a sprawling rooftop bar in the evenings and is perhaps the best place to watch the sunset over KL. Expect good cocktails (from RM25) and happy hour promotions, but be prepared to queue if you stay beyond 9pm. Daily 6pm–10pm.

Hubba Hubba Ground floor, Invito Hotel Suites, 1 Lorong Ceylon 017 786 7611; map. This large restaurant and bar, with high ceilings and a warehouse-style feel, offers great Western and Asian dishes including Japanese, Malay and Indian, plus early breakfasts and day-long happy hours, and rustles up some great cocktails (RM25). On Thurs, Fri and Sat nights at 10pm DJs spin house, commercial and R&B tracks. Mon–Wed & Sun 6am–1am, Thurs–Sat 6am–3am.

Luna Bar Level 34, Pacific Regency Hotel Suites, KH Tower, Jalan Punchak, off Jalan P. Ramlee 03 2332 7777, luna.my; map. This gorgeous rooftop poolside venue plays loungey sounds, affords breathtaking views of KL’s skyline and serves cocktails from RM22. On the same floor is Cristallo di Luna, a sparkling restaurant with Italian influence and tasty mains such as confit chicken (RM47). Mon–Thurs & Sun 10am–1am, Fri & Sat 10am–3am.

Marini’s on 57 Seventh floor, Petronas Tower 3 03 2161 2880, marinis57.com; map. As you’d expect, the capital’s highest rooftop bar boasts spectacular views of the city and close-ups of the Petronas Towers. Here, too, award-winning mixologists shake up classic and signature cocktails such as the White Dame (RM38), with bourbon, cointreau, grapefruit juice, lemon, honey and egg white. Smart attire (trousers for gents) only, or you will be refused entry. Mon–Thurs & Sun 5pm–1.30am, Fri & Sat 5pm–3am.

Pisco Bar 29 Jalan Mesui 03 2142 2900, piscobarkl.com; map. A range of excellent Peruvian/Spanish tapas (RM24) are to be had at this trendy nightlife spot, where pisco sours (RM28) are the drink of choice. Walls are adorned with blown-up photographs of pop icons and other celebs, while upturned buckets serve as bar lamps. Tues–Sun 5pm–1am, Fri & Sat 5pm–3am.

Sky Bar Level 33, Traders Hotel, KLCC 03 2332 9888, shangri-la.com; map. One of the capital’s most renowned bars offers the chance to sip cocktails (RM35) at the poolside while taking in exceptional views of the city from the 33rd floor. The bar hosts themed events nights (check the website) and guest DJs on Saturday nights spin an eclectic mix, from EDM to R&B. Mon–Thurs & Sun 10am–1am, Fri & Sat 10am–3am.

Taps A-0-3 One Residency, 1 Jalan Nagasari 03 2110 1560, tapsbeerbar.my; map. The best, if not only, place to enjoy craft beer in Kuala Lumpur. There’s a regularly rotating selection of beers from Belgium, the UK, France and beyond – the staff claim to have served the best part of 1000 unique beers since opening. Live music on Thursday to Saturday, often the talented house band playing classic rock, and surprisingly good food including Beer Bites (from RM15). Mon–Sat 5pm–1am, Sun 12pm–1am.

KL’S SPEAKEASY CULTURE

In many ways surprisingly relevant for a still conservative Muslim country, the recent rapid rise of speakeasy bars in Greater KL has caught the attention of well-off Chinese locals and Western visitors, and has attracted superstar bartenders from Japan, Hong Kong and Europe to Malaysia.

Some of the first venues were concentrated around the still derelict (from the outside) shophouses in the south end of Chinatown, where swanky surroundings and plush furnishing lurk behind worn walls and dark windows. Increasingly, posh upmarket suburbs such as Damansara and Mont Kiara are stashing away trendy venues behind bookcases in stairwells or above newsagents. By their very nature, speakeasy bars may not be around for more than a season, but the ones below have, so far, lasted at least a year and show no signs of closing.

Omakase + Appreciate Jalan Ampang, Bukit Bintang. Behind an inconspicuous ventilation cupboard door in the basement of the Bangunan Ming Annexe building near Masjid Jamek, this intimate space has a regularly changing cocktail menu, designed by founders Shawn and Karl. If you can’t decide what to order, let the knowledgeable staff know and they’ll invent a cocktail just for you. Tues–Sat 8pm–2am.

PS150 150 Jalan Petaling, Chinatown 03 2022 2888. Hidden down a dark back alley not too far from Petaling Street, this bar’s setting is as dark as the building’s history – it’s a former brothel. Drinks designed by Angel Ng, who is well known in the industry, include the Pandan Flip (RM38) with rum and coconut and Red Poison Princess (RM90 for two) with absinthe, tequila and mezcal. Tues–Sat 8pm–2am.

Tate Intermark Mall, 348 Jalan Tun Razak 03 216 2367. Operated by the same chain as Ben’s and one of the first speakeasies in the city, this darkly lit gentleman’s club-inspired space has a pool table, cigar selection and innovative cocktails by the barrel-load. Walk towards the back of the ground floor of the Intermark building and look for a plain white wall on the left with a black diagonal line – push the wall and voilà! Tues–Sat 8pm–1am.

BANGSAR

Mantra Bangsar Village 2, 2 Jalan Telawi 1 03 7344 8299, mantrabarkl.com; map. On the rooftop of a shopping centre, this venue is where young expats and Chinese Malaysians go to see and and be seen. The music ranges from house to heavier dance later in the evening, and there’s a huge balcony space, which looks back towards Bukit Bintang, plus innovative cocktails (RM35) and whiskey. Mon–Sat 5pm–1am.

Ronnie Q’s 32 Jalan Telawi 2 03 2282 0722; map. The focus at this watering hole, with its four TVs and a projector, is very much on sport – not just soccer but also cricket and rugby. Offers plenty of drinks including Guinness (RM28/pint) and Tiger beer (RM22/pint). Mon–Thurs 4pm–1am, Fri–Sun noon–1am.

NIGHTLIFE

If the drinking scene seems to tick over healthily enough, KL’s clubbing scene appears surprisingly buoyant for its size (although as with the bars, things are quiet during Ramadan). KL’s clubland largely focuses around the junction of Jalan Tuz Razak – home of newly renovated superclub Zouk and the purpose-built entertainment hub TREC – and Jalan P. Ramlee in the Golden Triangle, although venues are also springing up around Asian Heritage Row on Jalan Doraisamy, near Medan Tuanku Monorail station. The music policy at each venue tends to change with alarming frequency, but as a rule weekends feature more serious dance sounds, while weekdays offer retro hits and fairly accessible R&B. To keep up with the latest news, including which big-name DJs might be in town, check out the Friday club listings in the Star newspaper, Juice magazine (juiceonline.com) or the clubs’ own websites. The usual cover charge of around RM40–70 rises if well-known DJs are playing. Unfortunately, live music in KL is much less happening than in Singapore, partly because of Malaysia’s old reputation as a centre for music piracy, which has caused many international bands to choose not to play here in the past. Religious conservatives have also protested when the likes of Avril Lavigne, Selena Gomez and Gwen Stefani have performed. Consequently, most concerts tend to involve safe big-name pop, soul or country artists, plus occasional indie bands. That said, KL has a few small venues where local English-language singer-songwriters and bands get to strut their stuff, and shows by Malay pop stars and old-school rockers are occasionally publicized in the press.

CLUBS

Beach Club 924 Jalan P. Ramlee, Golden Triangle 03 2170 6666, beachclubcafe.com; map. Established venue with a somewhat clichéd thatched-tropical-hut theme, with towering coconut trees and an aquarium full of baby sharks. The mix of commercial chart and house sounds does pull in the punters most nights of the week, although it is something of a meat market. Daily noon–3am.

Blue Boy 50 Jalan Sultan Ismail, on a small lane off the main street, Golden Triangle 014 661 6447; map. Kuala Lumpur’s chief gay venue is a bit of a dive but still attracts a large local and foreign crowd to its bar and dance area – though beware the odd hustler. Daily 8pm–3am.

Havana Changkat Bukit Bintang, Golden Triangle 03 2142 7170, havanakl.com; map. Located just above the bustling steak-and-grill restaurant of the same name, this place has been attracting punters for over two decades. At weekends locals and expats alike hang out over beers and stomp about to old school and retro hits. There’s also a lounge and rooftop terrace bar for those who want to natter away over a few drinks. Fri & Sat 10am–2am.

The Roof 1 First Ave, Bandar Utama, Petaling Jaya 012 691 0628, theroof.com.my; map. This large entertainment hub in Petaling Jaya to the west of the centre hosts five nightlife outlets in one, including a bar on a grassed helipad with brilliant 360-degree views, a sports bar with darts, and a whiskey and cigar lounge. The gastro-lounge has great cocktails and opens for lunch, and the late-night club (Wed–Sat 10pm–3am) hosts international DJs and live music gigs, and is often packed with KL’s younger party crowd. Daily 1pm–1am.

Zion 31 Changkat Bukit Bintang 012 209 7300, facebook.com/ZionClubKL; map. The closest you will get to a late-night club in Bukit Bintang without venturing out to entertainment hub TREC. Expect pumping house sounds, with regular focus on afrobeat DJs, and a dressed-to-the-nines clientele. Daily 6pm–5am.

Zouk 113 Jalan Ampang 03 2171 1997, zoukclub.com.my; map. This offshoot of one of Singapore’s top clubs has become a mainstay of the KL scene and recently relocated to a swanky new venue in TREC. The whopping thirteen rooms here spin an eclectic range of music, including a smidgeon of indie. There’s even a slide from one room to another for VIP guests to use. Cover charge is around RM60 according to the night, but is often free before 1am for tourists. Tues–Sat 10pm–7am.

live music venues

Alexis Bistro Ampang Great Eastern Mall, 303 Jalan Ampang, Golden Triangle 03 4260 2288, alexis.com.my; map. Under the same management as Alexis Bistro in Bangsar and elsewhere, this upmarket bistro and wine bar hosts excellent local and international jazz acts on Friday and Saturday nights at 10pm. Mon–Thurs 11am–midnight, Fri & Sat 11am–2am, Sun 10am–midnight.

No Black Tie 17 Jalan Mesui, Golden Triangle 03 2142 3737, noblacktie.com.my; map. The venue of choice for discerning music lovers, this great jazz and gastro-bar hosts regular jazz, classical blues and folk sets, as well as international poetry readings. Pricey tapas (concert dinner from RM160) and cocktails (RM32) can be enjoyed in the performance/dining area while you watch the show. Mon–Sat 7pm–1am.

ENTERTAINMENT

The modest local performing arts scene is split between KL and its satellite town Petaling Jaya, which, with its complex system of numbered roads that even residents don’t understand, is best accessed by taxi. Theatre is probably the strongest suit, with concerts, musicals and so forth throughout the year, by local as well as international performers and troupes. There’s also a dedicated community of people working in the visual arts. For listings, check the national press and Time Out (timeout.com/kuala-lumpur). Kakiseni (kakiseni.com) is also worth consulting, not only for listings but also for an intelligent look at how the performing arts can find a balance with the Asian and Muslim values that hold sway in Malaysia.

TREC – Malaysia’s ENTERTAINMENT HUB

As part of a KL’s Tourism Master Plan 2015–2025, entertainment district TREC was opened up in August 2015 with the relaunch of clubbing institution Zouk. The space became the first entertainment enclave in KL to be granted a 5am license (much to the surprise of some punters). Bar chains that have already established themselves in other parts of Malaysia, including Mango’s and Friendscino, have also made an appearance, and also been joined by new ventures such as Donkey and Crow pubs and Le Noir nightclub, with the aim of capturing the hearts and wallets of the population in the immediate vicinity.

Theatre and classical music

Aside from the Actors Studio, other drama companies worth making time for include the Five Arts Centre (fiveartscentre.org) and the satirical Instant Café (instantcafetheatre.com). There are two home-grown orchestras, namely the Malaysian Philharmonic Orchestra (mpo.com.my) and the Dama Orchestra (damaorchestra.com), the latter specializing in Chinese classical music and musicals. Keep an eye on the press for news of international recitals. Besides the venues listed here, there are occasional concerts at the KL Convention Centre and also at out-of-town resorts such as Genting Highlands.

Actors Studio 03 2142 2009, theactorsstudio.com.my. The most prominent of KL’s theatre companies, this studio mounts several productions each year, ranging from Malaysianized versions of foreign classics to works by local playwrights, and has been instrumental in the creation and running of one of the city’s more impressive independent arts centres, KLPac.

Dewan Filharmonik Level 2, Tower 2, Petronas Towers, Golden Triangle box office 03 2051 7007, mpo.com.my. The home of the Malaysian Philharmonic, this venue also hosts concerts by other performers, not just in the classical domain. The box office is on the ground floor, Tower 2, and is open Tues–Sat 10.30am–6.30pm.

Istana Budaya (National Theatre) Jalan Tun Razak, east of the junction with Jalan Pahang and south of Titiwangsa Gardens, Titiwangsa 03 4026 5555, istanabudaya.gov.my. Besides providing a spacious modern home for the National Theatre Company and the National Symphony Orchestra, this venue sees performances by visiting international orchestras and also stages pop concerts, plays and ballets. Just over 1km from Titiwangsa (LRT/Monorail) or Chow Kit (Monorail) stations.

KL Performing Arts Centre Jalan Strachan, off Jalan Ipoh, Sentul 03 4047 9000, klpac.org. A joint project of the stalwart Actors Studio company and the construction conglomerate that’s redeveloping the area, the KL Performing Arts Centre (KLPac) is housed in a former rail depot revamped to look like a Frank Lloyd Wright doodle. It hosts jazz, indie and dance events plus, of course, plays by various companies. The location couldn’t be more awkward, in the depths of the old Sentul Raya Golf Club and cut off from the nearby Sentul Komuter station by the rail line, which you can’t cross safely without a big detour. Getting here and back is by far easiest by taxi or Grab/Uber.

Panggung Bandaraya Sultan Abdul Samad Building, Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman, Colonial District 03 2602 3335, dbkl.gov.my. Occasional performances of Malay drama (bangsawan) take place in this historic theatre with a Moorish facade.

Cultural shows

Traditional dance can be seen at the cultural shows put on by the Malaysian Tourism Centre and by a couple of restaurant theatres, though what’s on offer is inevitably touristy. Indian dance is better catered for, thanks to the Temple of Fine Arts.

Malaysia Tourism Centre (MaTiC) 109 Jalan Ampang, Golden Triangle 03 2164 3929, matic.gov.my. Produces 45-minute dance shows, featuring performers from Borneo as well as the Peninsula, from Mon–Sat at 3pm (RM9).

Saloma Next to MaTiC, Jalan Ampang, Golden Triangle 03 2161 0122, saloma.com.my. This place offers tiffin set lunches (RM25/person, minimum two), and an evening buffet (RM100) with a performance of traditional dance (daily 8.30–9.30pm), supposedly focusing on different states of the Federation each night. Daily 11am–10pm.

Temple of Fine Arts 116 Jalan Berhala, Brickfields 03 2274 3709, tfa.org.my. Community-run cultural centre set up to preserve Tamil culture by promoting dance, theatre, folk, classical music and craft-making. Probably the best place in KL to see traditional Indian dance.

CINEMA

Coliseum Cinema Jalan TAR, Little India. As a total contrast to the main chains, this cinema is worth a trip for its 1930s Art Deco character, even if Bollywood and Chinese kung fu films aren’t your thing.

Golden Screen Cinemas Third floor, Mid Valley Megamall, Mid Valley City gsc.com.my. Cinema chain with branches also in Pavilion KL and Berjaya Times Square in Bukit Bintang; their Mid Valley Megamall screen is your best bet for occasional foreign art-house films. RM12–50.

TGV Suria KLCC mall, Golden Triangle tgv.com.my. A conveniently located multiplex. Tickets range from RM12–50, depending on the time and film.

Shopping

There’s no city in Malaysia where consumerism is as in-your-face as KL. The malls of the Golden Triangle are draws for youths and yuppies alike, while street markets attract everyone, offering goods of all sorts. Jalan Petaling in Chinatown is where you’ll find fake watches and leather goods; some of these have started to creep into the covered market on Jalan Masjid India and the nearby Lorong Tuanku Abdul Rahman pasar malam, but their mainstays remain clothes and fabrics, plus a few eccentricities such as herbal tonics. Chow Kit Market has some clothing bargains but little else of interest to tourists except photo opportunities. A great just-out-of-town flea market for knick-knacks and general bric-a-brac happens every weekend inside the Amcorp Mall in Petaling Jaya, close to Taman Jaya station on the LRT.

Antiques

Antiques can be extremely expensive in Southeast Asia, and are often fake; the dealers listed below are sound but even experts can be fooled, so don’t fork out unless you know what you’re doing. The biggest market is for Chinese and Peranakan (Nyonya) porcelain, woodcarvings and artefacts, though there are also some Malaysian and Asian specialists in town.

Heritage of the Orient Ground floor, Central Market, Chinatown 03 2274 6443; map. Select range of genuine antiques from Tibet, China and Central Asia, plus a few pieces from Sarawak. Pricey. Daily 10am–8pm.

House of Suzie Wong Fourth floor, Lot 10 Mall, 50 Jalan Sultan Ismail, Bukit Bintang, 03 2143 3220; map. Interesting, eclectic range of antiques and collectibles from mainland China and Tibet, including furniture and carpets; high quality but reasonable prices. Daily 10am–10pm.

Madame Butterfly Second floor, Mid Valley Megamall, Mid Valley City 03 2282 8088; map. Antiques and antique-style arts and crafts; best for gemstone jewellery and Nyonya porcelain. Daily 10am–10pm.

Tomlinson Collection 30 Jalan Telawi 5, Bangsar 03 2283 2196, tomlinson-collection.com; map. One of Asia’s leading antique specialists showcasing a fine selection of classic Ming style Chinese furniture in prized woods, as well as Khmer sculptures, fine porcelain, Chinese robes and textiles and terracotta Han, Tung and Ming figurines. Daily 11am–6pm.

Books and music

The larger KL bookshops are pretty impressive, divided into Chinese-, English- and Malay-language sections, and carrying a good range of publications. They tend to be strong in literature about Malaysia and the rest of Southeast Asia – everything from historical monographs and classics-in-translation, to Manga, cookbooks and coffee-table tomes on architecture and garden design. Unfortunately, as this country has long been famous for rampant piracy, the music shops are nothing to write home about.

Junk Book Store 78 Jalan T.S. Lee, Chinatown 03 2078 3822, junkbookstore.com; map. Ancient establishment, jammed to its dusty rafters with secondhand books, most in English, covering every conceivable topic from pulp fiction to gardening. Mon–Fri 8.30am–5pm, Sat 8.30am–5pm.

Kinokuniya Fourth floor, Suria KLCC mall, Golden Triangle 03 2164 8133, malaysia.kinokuniya.com; map. Huge and efficient Japanese chain, with the broadest selection of books in KL. Daily 10am–10pm.

MPH Lower ground floor, Mid Valley Megamall 03 2938 3818, mphonline.com; map. This veteran survivor of the local book trade is resting on its laurels somewhat, though it still carries a decent mix of novels and nonfiction titles. They also have smaller outlets at Nu Sentral mall in KL Sentral and at the Bangsar Village mall. Daily 10am–10pm.

Popular Bookshop Second floor, Avenue K, KLCC 03 2161 2364, popular.com.my; map. Stationer-style bookshop, worth checking out for maps, paperbacks and cookbooks before heading further afield. Daily 10am–10pm.

Rock Corner First floor, The Gardens, Mid Valley City mall 03 2201 4893; map. Bravely independent music retailer, good for hard-to-find rock and indie CDs. Daily 10am–10pm.

Times Bookstore Sixth floor, Pavilion KL mall, Golden Triangle 03 2148 8813, timesbookstores.com.my; map. Large, well-organized member of the Singapore-based chain. Also sells stationery and gifts. Daily 10am–10pm.

Handicrafts

KL is a good place to stock up on handicrafts, though they tend to be available a little more cheaply in the provincial areas where they originate, and some here might even have been imported from overseas. For a broad range – everything from Royal Selangor pewter models of the Petronas Towers to bright batik, tribal textiles and original paintings or sculptures – visit Chinatown’s Central Market and Kompleks Kraf.

Kwong Yik Seng Crockery 144 Jalan Tun H.S. Lee, Chinatown 03 2078 3620; map. Hand-carved wooden Chinese cake moulds, Nyonya pie tee moulds, intricately decorated tea sets and stacks of modern pink-and-green Nyonya porcelain (at almost antique prices, however). They’ll generally bargain a little. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm.

Peter Hoe First floor, The Row KL, Jalan Doraisamy, Chow Kit 03 2026 0711; map. Moved from its old home in the Lee Rubber Building, this well-established brand’s new shop sells a range of arty-crafty soft furnishings, knick-knacks, textile bags and so forth, with a Southeast Asian flavour. There’s also a pleasant café within the shop. Daily 10am–7pm.

Malls

Locals and visitors alike come to KL’s shopping malls to seek refuge from the heat as much as to shop; for local young people, the malls are also important places to socialize. Mostly located outside the old centre, particularly in the Golden Triangle, the malls divide into two categories – gargantuan affairs in the manner of Western malls, featuring international chains and designer names, and smaller, denser Southeast Asian-style complexes, basically indoor bazaars with row upon row of tiny independent retailers. The simpler malls tend to be much more popular than their more sophisticated, pricier counterparts, and can be atmospheric places to wander. Many malls house a supermarket or department store of one sort or another.

Bukit Bintang

Berjaya Times Square Jalan Imbi, opposite the Monorail’s Imbi stop timessquarekl.com; map. Enormous mall with several shops and even an indoor theme park plus entertainment attractions, though not as buzzing as it really ought to be considering its size, and living somewhat in the shadow of Pavilion KL and Suria KLCC. Daily 10am–10pm.

Lot 10 Bintang Walk lot10.com.my; map. Specializes in designer clothes and accessories with many Western brands such as H&M. Daily 10am–10pm.

Low Yat Off Jalan Bukit Bintang plazalowyat.com; map. The best place in KL for electronic and digital purchases, from laptops to cameras. Daily 10am–10pm.

Pavilion KL Between Jalan Bukit Bintang and Jalan Raja Chulan pavilion-kl.com; map. One of the very largest malls in the city – and that’s saying something – with a parade of big-name designer outlets on Jalan Bukit Bintang. There are branches of Singaporean department stores and Malaysia’s own Parkson chain, present here in an especially upmarket version. There’s also a Times bookshop, GSC cinema and a plethora of eating and nightlife outlets. Daily 10am–10pm.

Starhill Gallery Next to the Marriott, Bintang Walk starhillgallery.com; map. Expect more designer names than is healthy, orbiting a suitably grand atrium. Just as noteworthy is the maze of top-notch restaurants and bars in the basement of the building. Daily 10am–10pm.

Sungei Wang Plaza Jalan Sultan Ismail sungeiwang.com; map. KL’s first mall offers everything from clothes to a Giant brand supermarket to souvenirs and consumer electronics, all of which is generally keenly priced. Daily 10am–10pm.

KLCC

Avenue K 156 Jalan Ampang avenuek.com.my; map. Worth a look if you’re into designer outlets but a bit staid for shopping. However, there are a couple of cracking restaurants on the upper floor such as Samba Brazilian Steakhouse, whose balcony looks towards the Petronas Towers. Daily 10am–10pm.

Suria KLCC At the base of the Petronas Towers suriaklcc.com.my; map. A mall so large it’s subdivided into sub-malls for ease of reference, Suria KLCC’s oval atriums are home to UK department store Marks & Spencer, Isetan and Cold Storage supermarkets, plus numerous restaurants, the Petrosains science museum (petrosains.com.my) and a TGV multiplex cinema. Daily 10am–10pm.

Bangsar and Mid Valley city

Bangsar Shopping Centre 285 Jalan Maarof, Bangsar bsc.com.my; map. This is an upmarket affair, and a good place to have a suit made, buy gifts or just find some food from home that you miss. Plenty of restaurants and coffee shops to boot. Daily 10am–10pm.

Bangsar Village and Village II Bangsar Baru bangsarvillage.com; map. The boutiques tend to play second fiddle to the restaurants in these two malls, joined by a bridge above street level. Shopping highlights include an MPH bookshop and the Country Farm Organics (countryfarmorganics.com) supermarket, selling organic produce and even eco-friendly detergent – the likes of which you’ll hardly see on sale anywhere else in the country. Daily 10am–10pm.

Mid Valley Megamall and Gardens Mall Off Jalan Syed Putra, 2km south of Brickfields midvalley.com.my; map. The sprawling Mid Valley Megamall certainly gives Suria KLCC a run for its money; come here for the Carrefour hypermarket, the Jusco and Metrojaya department stores, the MPH bookshop, the GSC cinema and the usual plethora of family restaurants and outlets selling everything from cosmetics to computers. The newer, adjacent Gardens Mall has sprung up alongside, joined by a bridge from Level 2, home to designer labels and the Singapore-based department store Robinsons. Both malls are easy to reach, as the KTM Mid Valley Komuter station is close by. Daily 10am–10pm.

outdoor gear

Lafuma Ground floor 16 Jalan Telawi, Bangsar Baru 03 2287 1118, lafuma.com.my; map. Also known as Yellow Stone, this small but serious outdoor shop features hiking boots, waterproofs, sleeping bags, water purifiers, camping stoves, packs, water bottles, tents, trekking clothing and accessories. They can also organize trekking guides in Peninsular Malaysia, Mount Kinabalu and beyond. Daily 11am–9pm.

Ufl Outdoors 26 Jalan Telawi 5, Bangsar Baru 03 2282 5721, ufl.com.my; map. Good for small, low-tech essentials – seam sealer, plastic water bottles, small nylon bags – plus sleeping bags and even basic tents. Some decent snorkelling, gymnastics and even archery gear, too. Daily 10am–8.30pm.

directory

Banks and exchange Banks with ATMs are located throughout KL; Maybank is usually your best bet for foreign exchange – there are several branches across the centre of town. You may get better rates from official moneychangers, which can be found in shopping malls and in and around transport hubs.

Casino The casino at Genting Highlands (rwgenting.com) attracts both vacationing locals and tourists as it offers several resorts, a theme park and shopping malls. It’s 30km out of town, best reached via the Karak Highway (E8); express buses head there from Pudu Sentral and Pekeliling bus stations, and there are also share taxis from Pudu Station.

Cultural centres Alliance Française, 15 Lorong Gurney (03 2694 7880, alliancefrancaise.org.my); British Council, West Block, Wisma Selangor Dredging, Jalan Ampangm next to the Maya hotel (03 2723 7900, britishcouncil.my); Goethe-Institut, suite 06-07, sixth floor, 374 Jalan Tun Razak (03 2164 2011, goethe.de).

Embassies and consulates Australia, 6 Jalan Yap Kwan Seng (03 2146 5555, malaysia.embassy.gov.au); Brunei, 19-01 Tingkat 19, Menara Tan & Tan, Jalan Tun Razak (06 7387 16001, mofat.gov.bn); Cambodia, 46 Jalan U Thant (03 4257 1150, camemb.mys.mfa.gov.kh); Canada, seventeenth floor, Menara Tan & Tan, 207 Jalan Tun Razak (03 2718 3333, canadainternational.gc.ca); China, Plaza OSK, 25 Jalan Ampang (03 2164 5250, my.china-embassy.org); India, 1 Jalan Mont Kiara (03 6205 2350, indianhighcommission.com.my); Indonesia, 233 Jalan Tun Razak (03 2116 4016, kbrikualalumpur.org); Ireland, The Amp Walk, 218 Jalan Ampang (03 2161 2963, embassyofireland.my); Japan, 11 Persiaran Stonor (03 2177 2600, my.emb-japan.go.jp); Laos, Jalan Damai and Jalan Mesra (03 2148 7059); Netherlands, The Amp Walk, 218 Jalan Ampang (03 2168 6200, nederlandwereldwijd.nl); New Zealand, Level 21, Menara IMC, 8 Jalan Sultan Ismail (03 2078 2533, mfat.govt.nz); Philippines, 1 Changkat Kia Peng (03 2148 4233, philembassykl.org.my); Singapore, 209 Jalan Tun Razak (03 2161 6277, mfa.gov.sg/kualalumpur); South Africa, Menara HLA, 3 Jalan Kia Peng (03 2170 2400, www.dirco.gov.za/malaysia); South Korea, 9 & 11 Jalan Nipah, off Jalan Ampang (03 4251 2336, mys.mofa.go.kr); Thailand, 206 Jalan Ampang (03 2145 8004, thaiembassy.org/kualalumpur); UK, Level 27 Menara Binjai, 2 Jalan Binjai (03 2170 2200, gov.uk/world/organisations/british-high-commission-kuala-lumpur); US, 376 Jalan Tun Razak (03 2168 5000, my.usembassy.gov); Vietnam, 4 Persiaran Stonor (03 2148 4534, vietnameseembassy.org).

Emergencies Police and ambulance 999, fire and rescue 994.

Hospitals and clinics General Hospital, Jalan Pahang (03 2615 5555, hkl.gov.my); Gleneagles Hospital, Jalan Ampang (03 4141 3000, gleneagleskl.com.my); Pantai Medical Centre, 8 Jalan Bukit Pantai (03 2296 0888, pantai.com.my); Tung Shin Hospital, 102 Jalan Pudu (03 2037 2288, tungshin.com.my).

Left luggage Luggage can be stored for a few ringgit per day at KL Sentral station and Pudu Sentral bus station (look out for a couple of counters at the back of the passenger level). At KLIA, the service costs RM15–30/day depending on the size of the bags.

Police KL has its own 24-hour Tourist Police station, where you can report stolen property for insurance claims, within the same complex as MATIC tourist office at MTC, 109 Jalan Ampang (03 9235 4999).

Post office The General Post Office is just south of the Dayabumi Complex on Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin (Mon–Fri 8.15am–5pm; 03 2267 2267); poste restante/general delivery mail comes here. A post office with extended hours can be found at Suria KLCC (daily 10am–6pm).

Rock climbing Guide Pro (03 4821 5708, theguideproshop.com) runs excursions for novices or experienced climbers to sites around Batu Caves and Bukit Tabur. Trips cost RM1750–3250/person, guides and all equipment supplied; hotel pick-ups upon request at extra cost.

Sports facilities Public sports facilities in downtown KL are limited. The most convenient pool is at Chinwoo Stadium, uphill south off Jalan Hang Jebat in Chinatown (Mon–Fri 2–8pm, Sat & Sun 9am–8pm; RM4.30 weekdays; RM5.30 weekends). The pool is well maintained but the showers and changing facilities are basic, and baggy swimwear is not allowed (men can purchase appropriate swimming trunks if required). Private health clubs, with gyms and other facilities, include Fitness First (fitnessfirst.com.my), with central locations at Avenue K mall, Jalan Ampang, next to the KLCC LRT station. The TPC Kuala Lumpur golf club (formerly Kuala Lumpur Golf & Country Club) is at Bukit Kiara, 8km west of the city centre (daily 7am–10pm; 03 2011 9188, tpckl.com).

Visa extensions The Immigration Office is at Kompleks Kementerian, Dalam Negeri, 69 Jalan Sri Hartamas 1 (Mon–Fri 7.30am–5pm, counter closes at 4pm; 03 6205 7400, www.imi.gov.my).

< Back to Kuala Lumpur and around

Around Kuala Lumpur

The most obvious attraction worthy of an excursion from KL is 13km north, where limestone peaks rise up from the forest at the Hindu shrine of Batu Caves, one of Malaysia’s main tourist destinations. Nearby, the Forest Research Institute of Malaysia (FRIM) encompasses a small but surprisingly thick portion of primary rainforest, where you can see birds and a few animals within an hour of downtown KL.

Further northwest of KL, the quiet town of Kuala Selangor offers the chance to observe the nightly dance of fireflies, while northeast, Fraser’s Hill is one of Malaysia’s many hill stations, set up in colonial times to allow government officials an escape from lowland heat. The most surreal day-trip you can make from KL is to the very Chinese fishing village on Ketam Island, off the coast near southwesterly Port Klang, which hardly feels like Malaysia at all.

Batu Caves and Ketam Island are easy to reach on public transport, but you’ll need a rental car or taxi to reach FRIM. About the only package trip widely offered by KL’s accommodation and tour agents goes to see the fireflies; you can do this on public transport, but it’s bit of a slog and really requires an overnight stay at Kuala Selangor.

< Back to Kuala Lumpur and around

Forest Research Institute of Malaysia

16km northwest of KL • Daily 5am–7.30pm • Free • 03 6279 7000, frim.gov.my • KMT Komuter train to Kepong station (20min),then taxi for the final 5km (10min)

The Forest Research Institute of Malaysia (FRIM) sits amid a fifteen-square-kilometre reserve of rainforest and parkland, threaded with sealed roads and walking trails. It’s a popular spot for weekend picnics, appealing to birdwatchers, joggers and anyone after some greenery and fresh air, but sadly its main attraction, the canopy walkway, was closed permanently in 2017 due to concerns over safety and the health of the trees that supported it. A couple of hours here is plenty of time for a walk around, and this makes a good warm-up for wilder affairs at Taman Negara; for a full day out you could always continue to the Batu Caves and Orang Asli Museum.

Taxis can drop you off at the gates; once there, pick up a map and follow the main road 1km into the park, past open woodland and rolling lawns, to the One Stop Centre for advice. A small museum nearby, which is strongly biased towards the timber industry, gives thumbnail sketches of the different types of tropical forests and the commercial uses of various woods.

For a good walk, follow the clear Rover walking track past the mosque and uphill into the forest; there are some huge trees, birds and butterflies here, and a single-plank suspension bridge across a deep gully – you may also see monkeys, if you’re lucky. You’ll also have the option of joining up with a couple of other trails along the way, which will bring you back to the One Stop Centre in around ninety minutes.

Thaipusam at the Batu Caves

The most important festival in the Malaysian Hindu calendar (along with Deepavali), Thaipusam honours the Hindu deity Lord Subramaniam. It’s held during the full moon in the month of “Thai” (which in the Gregorian calendar always falls between mid-January and mid-February), when huge crowds arrive at the Batu Caves. Originally intended to be a day of penance for past sins, it has now become a major tourist attraction, attracting Malaysians and foreigners alike each year.

The start of Thaipusam is marked by the departure at dawn, from KL’s Sri Maha Mariamman Temple, of a golden chariot bearing a statue of Subramaniam. Thousands of devotees follow on foot as it makes its seven-hour procession to the caves. As part of their penance – and in a trance-like state – devotees carry numerous types of kavadi (“burdens” in Tamil), the most popular being milk jugs decorated with peacock feathers placed on top of the head, which are often connected to the penitents’ flesh by hooks. Others wear wooden frames with sharp protruding spikes, which are carried on the back and hooked into the skin, while trident-shaped skewers are placed through some devotees’ tongues and cheeks. This rather grisly procession has its origins in India, where most of Lord Subramaniam’s temples were situated on high ridges that pilgrims would walk up, carrying heavy pitchers or pots. At Batu Caves, the climb up to the main chamber expresses the idea that you cannot reach God without expending effort.

Once at the caves, the Subramaniam statue is placed in a tent before being carried up to the Temple Cave, where devotees participate in ceremonies and rituals to Subramaniam and Ganesh. Things climax with a celebration for Rama, which involves milk from the kavadi vessels being spilt as an offering; incense and camphor are burned as the bearers unload their devotional burdens.

Extra buses run to the caves during Thaipusam – make sure you get there early (around 7am) for a good view. Numerous vendors sell food and drink, but it’s a good idea to take water and snacks with you, as the size of the crowd is horrendous.

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Sunway Lagoon

15km southwest of KL • Adult RM170, child RM140 • 03 5639 0000, sunwaylagoon.com • KTM Komuter line from KL Sentral to Setia Jaya (hourly; 25min) then a taxi (5min; RM10)

Though it’s not a must-see, Sunway Lagoon is Malaysia’s most famous, and one of Asia’s most popular, water parks, and is certainly worth a visit if you’re spending a few weeks in KL. One of its main draws, the Vuvuzela ride, sees participants boarding a chute from an eleven-storey-high tower and plummeting into a huge horn-shaped waterslide. It’s not all about slides and pools, however, as there’s a total of ninety attractions, and the site also includes an amusement park, wildlife park and the Lost Lagoon, Asia’s first Nickelodeon-themed attraction. The Sunway Resort Hotel & Spa is also based on site, which is handy if you find yourself too worn out to return to KL at the end of the day.

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Putrajaya

30km south of KL • KLIA Transit from KL Sentral to Putrajaya/Cyberjaya (every 30min; 20min) then a taxi (10min; RM10) to Dataran Putrajaya

Though it’s generally viewed as a soulless admin hub, the city of PUTRAJAYA does in fact have some seriously impressive architecture and a wealth of gorgeous green areas, so it’s more than suitable for an enjoyable daytrip from KL. The city is the Federal Government’s administrative centre, though the main sights for tourists include the bright pink Putra Mosque at Putra Square and the nearby Tuanku Mizan Zainal Abidin Mosque, plus the Botanical Gardens and Putrajaya Wetlands Park. The enormous lake, popular for watersports, is also well worthy of a wander or a bike ride (there is bicycle rental desk inside the Botanical Gardens), and you can take in the Millennium Monument along the way – inspired by the Washington Monument in Washington DC, it is 68m tall and depicts various milestones in Malaysia’s history.

Botanical Gardens

Persiaran Sultan Sallahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah • Free • Daily 7am–6pm • 03 2615 8188, ppj.gov.my

Putrajaya’s Botanical Gardens house a wealth of beautifully maintained green spaces and structures, including a Moroccan pavilion with exquisite zellige (Moroccan mosaics), the Sun Garden with its enormous sundial and the short but worthwhile canopy walk. Avoid visiting in the middle of the day, as it’ll be unbearably humid. The views out across the lake to the Putra Mosque and beyond are fabulous. Look out for the Putrajaya Seafood Restaurant (daily 11am–9pm; 03 8889 1188, pcs.my) on the shore of the lake, which is a good place to settle down at sunset for a decent dinner and a visual treat.

Putrajaya Wetlands Park

Persiaran Persekutuan • Tues–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 8.30am–5.30pm • Free • 03 8887 7774, ppj.gov.my

Constructed in 1998, the two-square-kilometre Putrajaya Wetlands Park transformed an oil palm plantation into a thriving ecosystem – the first man-made wetland in Malaysia and the largest constructed freshwater wetland in the region. The site has a few informational displays at the Interpretive Centre, but the main draw here is the flamingo lake, where you can spot egrets and cinnamon bitterns.

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Batu Caves

13km north of KL on Jalan Batu Caves, roughly midway between the junctions with Jalan Ipoh and the E8 • Free • KTM Komuter train from KL Sentral to Batu Caves (every 15–30min; 30min)

The Batu Caves sit right on the northern edge of Greater KL, where forested limestone thumbs poke out of a ridge of hills in the suburb of Gombak. In 1891, ten years after the caves were brought into the limelight by American explorer William Hornaby, local Indian dignitaries convinced the British administration that the caves were ideal places in which to worship (probably because their geography was reminiscent of the sacred Himalayas). Soon ever-increasing numbers of devotees were visiting the caves to pray at the shrine established here to Lord Murugan, also known as Lord Subramaniam; later the temple complex was expanded to include a shrine to the elephant-headed deity Ganesh. Although the caves are always packed with visitors, by far the most atmospheric way to visit is to join the thousands of devotees attending the annual three-day Thaipusam festival in late January or early February.

Arriving at the site, you can’t miss the immense staircase leading up into the limestone crags, and the gigantic golden statue of Lord Murugan, the Hindu god of war, to one side; it’s claimed to be the tallest such statue in the world. A number of minor temples stand at ground level, but most visitors head straight up the 272 steps to the caves, pausing only to catch their breath or take photos of the marauding macaques who make their presence all too known.

The FRIM–Batu caves–Orang Asli Museum circuit

The proximity of FRIM, the Orang Asli Museum and the Batu Caves to Middle Ring Road II (also known as Jalan Batu Caves) makes it feasible for drivers to visit all three in a day. From KL, either take the E8 highway, which intersects Jalan Batu Caves, or use Jalan Ipoh, which starts at Chow Kit and meets Jalan Batu Caves 4km west of the E8. FRIM is west of Jalan Ipoh, the Orang Asli Museum close to the E8, and the caves are in between the two.

Unfortunately, no buses connect the three, but you could use taxis or Grab/Uber to reach FRIM (RM15) and the Orang Asli Museum (RM20) from Batu Caves.

Ramayana Cave

Daily 8am–7pm • RM5

A minute’s walk west of the Lord Murugan statue, past a blue 15m statue of Hanuman, lies the elaborately decorated and vividly illuminated Ramayana Cave, which depicts the story of the life of Lord Rama. The tale includes Rama’s fight to rescue his wife Sita from Ravana, the demon king; one of the focal points of the temple is an enormous statue of a sleeping Kumbhakarna, brother of Ravana and a famous warrior in the battle. As the cave is still a relatively recent addition – the temple was only consecrated in 2001 – it’s much less busy than the main cave complex, though it’s perhaps more impressive thanks to its intricate carvings and absorbing storyline.

Dark Cave

Tues–Sun 9.30am–5pm • Educational tour Tues–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10.30am–5.30pm; 45min • RM35, child RM25 • Adventure tour Sat & Sun, check website for times; 3–4hr; minimum group size 10 (aged 12 and above) • RM80; book at least a week ahead •03 6186 7011 darkcavemalaysia.com

Three-quarters of the way up the steps to the Batu Caves – at step 204, to be precise – a turning on the left leads to a vast side cavern known as the Dark Cave, which can only be visited on a guided tour. Here a 2km-long passageway opens into seven chambers populated by a large range of insects, the rare trapdoor spider (thought to be unique to the caves) and at least three types of bats, which can be distinguished by their calls. Take the Educational Tour for a walkthrough of the cave’s history and limestone formations, including several towering flow stones, or sign up to the Adventure Tour to climb and crawl through narrow passageways.

Subramaniam Swamy Temple

Daily 8am–7pm • Free

At the top of the main staircase, there’s a clear view through to the Subramaniam Swamy Temple, devoted to Lord Subramaniam and another deity, Rama. It’s set deep in a cave (known today as Temple Cave) that’s around 100m high and 80m long, the walls of which are lined with idols representing the six lives of Lord Subramaniam. In a chamber at the back, a statue of Rama, adorned with silver jewellery and a silk sarong, is said to watch over the wellbeing of all immigrants. If you want to look closely at this inner sanctum, the temple staff will mark a small red dot on your forehead, giving you the spiritual right to enter.

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Royal Selangor Visitor Centre

11km northeast of central KL on Jalan Usahawan 6, Setapak Jaya • Daily 9am–5pm • Free • 03 4145 6000, royalselangor.com • LRT Kelana Jaya line from Dang Wangi to Wangsa Maju (every 20min; 25min), then a taxi (5min; RM5).

Pewter is something of a souvenir cliché in Malaysia, though the platters, mugs and other objects found in the Royal Selangor Visitor Centre still make elegant gifts. You wouldn’t have been able to call this place a visitor centre a few years ago, but following a revamp it now offers the whole package, with exhibits on the origins of pewter and smithing, hands-on craft workshops and free guided tours. If you’re tempted to buy something but don’t fancy carrying it back from Setapak Jaya, the centre also has stores in Pavilion, Bangsar and Suria KLCC malls.

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Orang Asli Museum

20km north of KL on Jalan Pahang Lama, Gombak • Mon–Thurs & Sat 9am–5pm • Free • 03 6189 2117, jakoa.gov.my • Best to take a taxi, Grab or Uber (35min; RM30)

Run by the government’s Department for Orang Asli Development, the Orang Asli Museum aims to present a portrait of the various groups of Orang Asli, former nomadic hunter-gatherers in the jungle who are now largely resident in rural settlements. A large map of the Peninsula in the foyer makes it clear that the Orang Asli can be found, in varying numbers, in just about every state, and that surprises some visitors, who see little sign of them during their travels. Besides collections of the fishing nets, guns and blowpipes the Orang Asli use as part of their traditional lives, the museum also has photographs of Orang Asli press-ganged by the Malay and British military to fight Communist guerrillas in the 1950s. Other displays describe the changes forced more recently on the Orang Asli – some positive, like the development of health and school networks, others less encouraging, like the erosion of the family system as young men drift off to look for seasonal work.

Hidden in an annexe to the rear of the building, examples of traditional handicrafts include the head carvings made by the Mah Meri tribe from the swampy region on the borders of Selangor and Negeri Sembilan, and the Jah Hut from the slopes of Gunung Benom in central Pehang. Around 50cm high, the carvings show stylized, fierce facial expressions, and are fashioned from a strong, heavy hardwood. They still have religious significance – the most common image used, the moyang, represents the spirit of the ancestors.

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Kuala Selangor

70km northwest of KL • Buses to Kuala Selangor leave from KL’s Pudu Sentral station daily every 30min (2hr); the last bus back leaves at 7.45pm

Coastal KUALA SELANGOR lies close to the junction of routes 5 and 54 on the banks of the Selangor River. A former royal town, today it’s a small, sleepy affair; the chief reason visitors continue to come here is to see the river’s fireflies, which glow spectacularly in the early evening.

This natural spectacle appeared at one stage to be in terminal decline: the fireflies’ mangrove habitat was rapidly being cleared away, and the river was becoming more and more polluted. Government intervention seems to have stabilized things, and you stand a reasonable chance of enjoying a decent light show, weather permitting – the flies don’t perform in rain. It’s easiest to see Selangor’s highlights on an evening firefly package tour from KL, though you can visit independently if you’re prepared to stay overnight.

Fort Altingsburg

Daily 9am–4.30pm • Free

All that remains of Kuala Selangor’s glorious past are the remnants of two forts overlooking the town. The largest, Fort Altingsburg, recalls an era when this part of the country changed hands, bloodily, on several occasions. Originally called Fort Melawati, Altingsberg was built by local people during the reign of Sultan Ibrahim of Selangor in the eighteenth century, and later captured by the Dutch (who renamed it) as part of an attempt to wrestle the tin trade from the sultans. The fortress was partly destroyed during local skirmishes in the Selangor Civil War (1867–73). Within its grounds is a cannon, reputed to be from the Dutch era, and a rock used for executions. Bukit Melawati, the hill on which the fort is based, also holds a lighthouse and a British colonial resthouse, and has hundreds of (mostly) friendly monkeys on the hunt for fruit.

Kuala Selangor Nature Park

Below Fort Altingsburg • Daily 9am–5pm • RM4 • 03 3289 2294 • The park is a 500m walk from Bukit Melawati (follow signs for Taman Alam); you can also get here on the buses that run up Route 5 from Klang – ask to be let off at the park, and you’ll be dropped at a petrol station, from where the park is 200m up Jalan Klinik

The Kuala Selangor Nature Park, which encompasses mud flats, mangroves and a small patch of forest, is host to around 150 species of birds, with thirty more migratory species passing through, as well as silverleaf monkeys, which live in the forest, and crabs and fish in the mangroves. Clearly marked trails take between 30min and 1hr 30min to walk.

accommodation and eating: Kuala Selangor

Firefly Park Resort Jalan Haji Omar, Kampung Bukit Belimbing 03 3260 1208. Slick accommodation with simple, modern, a/c en-suite chalets for four. There’s a BBQ area and Chinese seafood restaurant, with breakfast upon request (weekends only; RM50). Rates drop by up to RM50 Mon–Thurs. RM190

Firefly Villa 1 Jalan Sungai Gulang-Gulang (SGG) 5/4, Tanjong Karang fireflyvilla.com. Twelve km north of town, this pleasant place has four en-suite rooms set around a quiet pool area amid palm and banana trees. The friendly owners are keen to share their knowledge of the area, and provide hearty breakfasts each morning. RM398

Nature Park Chalets Taman Alam, Kuala Selangor Nature Park 03 3289 2294. A mix of basic chalet and hostel accommodation. Book in advance, as school groups can fill the place up. There’s nowhere to eat nearby, so it’s best to bring everything you think you’ll need. Dorms RM35, chalets RM50

Jetty Seafood Restaurant Pasir Penambang off Jalan Feri Lama. Situated amid a group of similar waterside seafood restaurants, this one stands out for its bright red seating and fresh seafood, including crab in a variety of sauces (RM100/kg). Mains from RM19.

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Ketam Island

50km west of KL • From KL Sentral, take a KTM Komuter train to Klang (1hr 15min); boats to Pulau Ketam Village via Sungai Lima leave from Klang’s Terminal Penumpang South Port, opposite the train station

The moment you set foot aboard ferries to KETAM ISLAND (Crab Island), you’ll find yourself in a kind of parallel universe: this is Chinese day-tripper land, with videos of Chinese karaoke clips and soap operas blaring from the on-board screens. The majority of Ketam’s five thousand inhabitants are Teochew and Hokkien Chinese, who traditionally live almost entirely by fishing from their low, flat, mangrove-encrusted island. Every house is built on stilts above the sand, and practically every street is a concrete walkway or boardwalk raised in the same fashion. Aside from the chance to eat tasty, inexpensive seafood, you’d visit Ketam mainly for a slightly surreal break from KL’s pace, and a couple of good places to stay if you like peace and quiet.

From the jetty, walk past the mosque towards Jalan Tepi Sungai and Jalan Besar, which are lined with grocers, general stores, and stalls and restaurants selling seafood – including, of course, crab. Beyond a shop selling Buddhist paraphernalia is a central square, where you’ll find the Hock Leng Temple, as well as a small grotto containing a representation of Kwan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy, looking decidedly Madonna-like with a halo of red electric lights. Beyond, you’ll come to a residential area of concrete and wooden houses, nearly all with their front doors left wide open. There’s lots of refuse littering the mud flats beneath unfortunately, but you’ll still get to see plenty of shrines outside the homes as well as netting containing seafood that’s been left out to dry.

Firefly Trips

Kuala Selangor’s fireflies, known as kelip-kelip in Malay, are actually 6mm-long beetles of a kind found between India and Papua New Guinea. During the day, the fireflies rest on blades of grass or in palm trees behind the river’s mangrove swamps, and after sunset they move to the mangroves themselves, the males attracting mates with synchronized flashes of light at a rate of three bursts per second. Females flash back at males to indicate interest and initiate mating. Typically, the most successful males are those that flash brightest and fly fastest.

Boats leave on 30min firefly-spotting trips from two locations several kilometres from town: Bukit Belimbing, where you’ll find fibreglass boats run by Firefly Park Resort, on the north bank across the river bridge (daily 7.40–10.30pm; RM25/person); and Kampung Kuantan, where you can hop on a manually steered wooden boat from the south bank (daily 7.30–11.30pm; RM50/four-person boat). There are no buses to either of the jetties, so taxis from Kuala Selangor get away with pretty steep prices – expect the ride to cost at least RM20. It’s important to remain quiet when watching the firefly display and not to use flash photography, as it scares the insects away.

It’s possible to take firefly tours all the way from KL with Han Travel (han-travel.com) for RM190 per person, or you can combine the fireflies trip with a tour that takes in the Batu Caves, a batik factory, a pewter factory, and a chocolate outlet for RM450, or RM300 per person for groups of two or more, including return transport, all fees and a seafood dinner.

ARRIVAL AND tours: Ketam Island

By ferry Ferries (every 45min; 45min; RM8) depart Klang Mon–Fri 8.45am–6.30pm, Sat 8.45am–7.10pm and return Mon–Fri 8.45am–6.30pm, Sat 8.45am–6pm.

By tour Not far from the jetty, Greenway (012 322 5333, greenway2u.com) offers packages including daytime fishing trips (RM90/person) and an overnight stay at a floating fish farm (RM60/person, minimum three people).

accommodation and eating

Hotel Sea Lion S3 Jalan Merdeka 03 3110 4121, sealion.com.my. Near the jetty, in a distinctive yellow and white building, this simple establishment has a nice deck overlooking the water. The cheapest rooms are windowless with fans, while the others have a/c and a bit more space. You can book good-value packages here, such as one night’s accommodation, one evening meal and a fishing trip from RM98. RM58

Restoran Seng Huat On the main street. This place is similar to other places to eat nearby, but is just that little bit livelier. It offers excellent seafood omelettes, prawns, crab, noodles soups and generic stir-fries. Around RM18 should be enough to leave you stuffed. Daily 8am–8pm.

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Fraser’s Hill

98km northeast of KL

Set 1500m up in the forested Titiwangsa mountains, the collection of colonial bungalows comprising FRASER’S HILL was established after World War I as one of Malaysia’s earliest hill stations, a retreat for administrators seeking relief from the torrid lowland climate. Though less visited than the much larger Cameron Highlands to the north, Fraser’s Hill boasts excellent nature trails and superb birdwatching; some 250 species have been recorded here, and the Fraser’s Hill International Bird Race each June (pkbf.org.my) sees teams competing to clock up as many as possible within a day. Even if you don’t have the slightest interest in twitching, the hill remains a good getaway from the heat and hubbub of KL, and at weekends (when accommodation prices shoot up) it draws families from as far away as Singapore.

Sprawling amid a handful of wooded slopes, the hill station focuses on a T-junction at the south end of a golf course. Puncak Inn is located here, along with a distinctive clock tower, a post office and a bank, and the roads and trails head off in all directions from here to clusters of hidden bungalows and cabins.

Communists on the hill

During the Emergency in the 1950s, the mountainous jungle at Fraser’s Hill provided perfect cover for some of the Communist guerrillas’ secret camps, from where they launched strikes on British-owned plantations and neighbouring towns.

If you approach Fraser’s Hill via Kuala Kubu Bharu (known as KKB), due north of KL, roughly halfway up you’ll see a sign, “Emergency Historical Site”, marking the spot where Sir Henry Gurney, the British High Commissioner for Malaya at the height of the communist insurgency in 1951, was ambushed and killed. The guerrillas hadn’t known how important their quarry was: their aim had been only to steal guns, ammunition and food, but when Gurney strode towards them demanding that they put down their weapons, they opened fire.

Trails

The easiest targets for a stroll are Allan’s Water, a small lake less than 1km from the clock tower, and Jeriau Waterfall, 4km north via Ye Olde Smokehouse, where the convincing English country decor and cream teas (daily 3–6pm) are a strong inducement to pause for a breather. Another good walk involves taking Jalan Lady Guillemard east to the loop road, Jalan Girdle; this leads to the most remote section of the hill station, bordering Ulu Tramin Forest Reserve, though completing the entire circle only takes around ninety minutes.

Even most of the longer trails can be covered in less than two hours; indeed it would only take a couple of days to cover them all. Signage, however, can be spotty – it’s best to talk to the tourist office about your route before you set out, and consider hiring a guide. The trails can get slippery in wet weather, so be sure to wear proper footgear; leeches have also been known to be a problem.

The Hemmant trail begins on Jalan Genting close to the mosque, and snakes along the edge of the golf course just within the jungle. At its far end, you can turn left and either walk on to Jalan Lady Maxwell, or continue as far as the Bishop’s House, where you can pick up the Bishop’s trail en route to the Maxwell trail, at which point you can either leave the trail by turning right up the hill and returning to town via Jalan Lady Maxwell, or continue another hour until it reaches Jalan Quarry.

Arrival and Departure: fraser’s hill

By car Fraser’s Hill is reached by a single-lane road that branches off Route 55, which connects Kuala Kubu Bharu (KKB, on Route 1) and Raub (Route 8) at a spot called the Gap. In theory, this road takes summit-bound traffic only, while downhill traffic uses a road that joins the KKB–Raub road 1km northeast. When either one is closed by landslips, however, traffic alternates hourly in each direction on the other. The entire journey to or from KL typically takes 2hr or so. There is no fuel station at Fraser’s Hill, so be sure to fill up in KL.

By train and taxi Catch a Komuter train (blue Seremban line north) from KL to Kuala Kubu Bharu (KKB; 1hr 15min); note that not all trains stop off at KKB, so make sure you ask before boarding. From KKB, you’ll have to take a taxi to Fraser’s Hill (45min; RM60) – it might be better to simply take a Grab or Uber from the centre of KL (RM100).

Information

Banks There is a small branch of Maybank at the Shahzan Inn, where you can change money (Mon–Thurs 9.15am–4.30pm, Fri 9.15am–4pm); there is also an ATM, although it only accepts local cards.

Tourist information The tourist office is based inside the Puncak Inn at the centre of the hill station (daily 8am–11pm; 09 362 2007, pkbf.gov.my); they can provide maps, advise on current trail conditions and put you in touch with local guides. For up-to-date information on hotel and guesthouse accommodation plus the local attractions and a handy rundown of all the trails, check fraserhill.info.

Accommodation

Accommodation in Fraser’s Hill is mostly motel-like and geared towards families and groups, though some bungalows – here either detached single-storey houses or small apartment blocks – are also available. Always book in advance, and expect rates quoted here to rise by as much as fifty percent at weekends and during holidays.

Puncak Inn Jalan Gap 09 362 2007, pkbf.gov.my. The block of this tourist-office-run hotel is not the most inspiring in town, but this is one of the best places to stay in Fraser’s Hill, featuring neat and tidy rooms with flowery curtains, heating and en-suite facilities. There is free wi-fi at reception, but not in the rooms. RM125

Shahzan Inn Jalan Lady Gullemard 09 362 2300, shahzaninn-fraserhill.com. Located in a large white concrete block, this bland hotel consists of tiers of rooms ascending a terraced hillside. Rooms are a bit dated and don’t have much personality, although they are spacious and pretty comfortable, and either look onto the garden or the town’s golf course. RM200

Ye Olde Smokehouse Jalan Jeriau 09 362 2226, thesmokehouse.my. Founded in 1937 as a resort for British servicemen who fought in World War I, this stereotypical English country inn offers fireside chairs and spacious rooms with four-poster beds, guaranteed to make the cool nights pass all the more blissfully. There’s a good restaurant, too. Rates drop by around thirty percent on weekdays (though it still doesn’t hurt to ask about discounts on weekends) and include a full English breakfast. RM320

Eating

Fraser’s Hill doesn’t offer much choice for eating: aside from the two restaurants here, there’s a central food court offering a mix of Malay, Indian and Chinese staples for about RM8 per dish.

Scott Restaurant 2 Jalan Genting 09 362 2118. Under the same management as Ye Olde Smokehouse, this pleasant restaurant is reminiscent of a British country pub, with a cosy fireplace, wooden tables and chintzy sofas. Food can also be enjoyed on the little patio-cum-garden at the front of the building. The menu offers British classics including fish and chips (RM20), and there are some Asian dishes too, such as Thai green curry with chicken (RM18). Daily 11am–10pm.

Ye Olde Smokehouse Jalan Jeriau 09 362 2226, thesmokehouse.my. This quaint hill resort is the epitome of British country living, with its charming conservatory and log fire lit on colder days. English afternoon tea (daily 3–6pm) is served in the garden, and includes freshly baked scones and home-made strawberry jam. The restaurant menu features traditional British staples such as roast beef and Yorkshire pudding (RM65) and chicken and mushroom pie (RM50). Things are fairly informal during the day, but it’s best not to turn up in a T-shirt and shorts in the evening. Daily noon–9.30pm.

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