The Orang Asli
The twentieth-century spread of the timber, rubber and palm oil industries through the interior had a huge impact upon the region’s Orang Asli, who were traditionally nomadic peoples living by hunting and slash-and-burn agriculture. These days many have been forced to settle down, existing at the fringes of the cash economy. The mountain-dwelling Temiar, for instance, trade in forest products such as herbal medicines and, increasingly, timber (though their logging activities are minimal compared with those of the State Forestry Department and private companies). Some Batek do still live fairly traditional lives at Taman Negara, where you might meet shy groups walking in single file along trails, or come across their temporary vine-and-forest-brush shelters in jungle clearings.
However, three-quarters of Orang Asli peoples (including many local Batek, Senoi and Semang) live below the poverty line, compared to less than a tenth of the population as a whole. That fact makes it all the harder for them to confront the many forces, from planning agencies to Christian and Muslim groups, who seek to influence their destiny. The issue of land rights is among their gravest problems, for while the country’s Aboriginal People’s Act has led to the creation of Orang Asli reserves, at the same time many Asli traditional areas have been gazetted as state land, rendering the inhabitants there, at best, tolerated guests of the government.
Taman Negara: Kuala Tahan
The main gateway to Taman Negara, the town of Kuala Tahan, 250km northeast of KL, is where you’ll find the national park headquarters and the pick of its visitor facilities. It’s also the place to get your bearings and seek advice before crossing the Tembeling River and heading into the forest: well-marked trails include an easy boardwalk stroll to a popular canopy walkway; tougher day-treks out to waterfalls and hides overlooking salt licks in the jungle (for which you’ll need to hire guides); or the seven-day return ascent of Mount Tahan, Peninsular Malaysia’s highest peak, involving steep climbs and river crossings. Activities other than hiking include river swimming, low-key rafting and angling.
Listening to the sounds of the birds, insects and other animals, marvelling at the sheer size of the trees and peering into the tangled understorey of flowering lianas, luminous fungi and giant bamboo are memorable experiences. However, keep your expectations of spotting wildlife – particularly big game – low, as these days it’s very rare to encounter any, even on the park’s remotest trails.
Kuala Tahan is reached via the service town of Jerantut, or – increasingly – directly on minibuses from Cameron Highlands or the Pulau Perhentian jetty at Kuala Besut. It’s also possible to enter Taman Negara further north at Merapoh and Kuala Koh – or even to hike to either from Kuala Tahan in a week-long traverse of the park. Both require more effort to reach and have fewer facilities, but they’re also less crowded than Kuala Tahan – though not necessarily easier places to see wildlife.
Planning a visit to Taman Negara
Given that tropical rainforest is always sodden, the driest time of year is between February and mid-October, with the peak tourist season roughly from May to August – make sure you book ahead. Mid-November to mid-January is extremely wet, and movement within the park can be restricted as paths are submerged and rivers flood. Usually, however, most of the park’s trails require no more than an average level of fitness, though of course longer trails require some stamina. Some essential camping and trekking gear is available to buy at Jerantut, or to rent at Kuala Tahan, but take your own if possible.
Campsites are scattered through the park; they have absolutely no facilities at all, though most are close to rivers where you can wash. There’s a small fee for hides and campsites, payable at the national park office, where you can also reserve bunks in hides.
To budget for your trip, remember that for any trek involving overnighting in the forest (other than in a hide close to a park office or accessible by boat), you must hire a guide. It’s generally more cost-effective to arrange guides through external operators than through the park headquarters, although the latter may be preferable if you would like a guide with a particular area of expertise. The fees for guides and boat excursions are the only substantial outlays you’ll face, as inexpensive accommodation, eating and transport options are easy to find.
Fees and charges
The following fees apply to all sections of Taman Negara:
Park entry RM1/person
Camping permit RM1/person/night
Photography Permit RM5/camera
Fishing licence (for Kenyam only) RM10/rod
Use of hides or fishing lodges RM5/person
Guide hire RM180–250/day, plus RM60 for overnight
Getting around the park
If you simply need to cross the river from Kuala Tahan, you can take one of the small wooden boats (daily dawn–11pm; RM1) that cross on demand from Kuala Tahan’s floating restaurants to the jetty below the resort and national park headquarters. Put your fare in the tin by the ferryman.
Aside from trekking, wooden longboats seating four to ten people are the only way to get around Taman Negara from Kuala Tahan; you can use them like a taxi service to reach distant trekking trails, or speed your return journey after a long hike. Boats might wait for you or, more likely, return at an agreed time; don’t expect them to hang around indefinitely if you are late. Book through the national park office; prices are the same for single or return trips.
Destination Cost
Blau/Yong hides RM80
Canopy walkway RM60
Kuala Keniam RM350/450
Kuala Trenggan RM120
Destination Cost
Lata Berkoh RM160
Lubok Lesong RM100
Nusa Camp RM90
Tabing/Cegar Anjing hides RM60
Jerantut
In tranquil JERANTUT, 70km south of Kuala Tahan, road, rail and river converge on a small grid of streets. Activity revolves around the main artery Jalan Besar, 200m east of the train station. The Tembeling Jetty, a short taxi ride north, sees traffic upriver to Kuala Tahan. For most, Jerantut is just somewhere to find last-minute supplies and top up with cash, as there are no banks at Kuala Tahan. However, it’s worth lingering for an enjoyable half-day visiting the Kota Gelanggi Cave Complex, and if you’re here on a Saturday, try some of the cheap local food at the bustling night market (5–10.30pm) next to the new bus station.
Kota Gelanggi Cave Complex
10km east of Jerantut’s city centre, along the main road to Maran • Daily 9am–5.30pm • RM5; guides RM45/person, minimum four people
Most travellers zip from Jerantut to Taman Negara, neglecting this remarkable limestone cave complex. A handful of the ten or so caves, including Tongkat, Terang Bulan and Balai, are scattered along the paved road that starts from the park’s entrance. You will need a guide to hike further into the jungle to Elephant’s Head Cave, a small tunnel that leads to the tiny Portrait Cave. The curious rock formation on the upper right-hand side of the rock face here resembles a female figure in the pose of Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. Hiking for another fifteen minutes brings you to a clearing with six empty archaeological digs and the entrance to Wind Cave, taking its name from its gale-battered upper chamber. Once inside, you reach the last two hollows, Elephant and Wedding Cave (Gua Sanding). It’s actually a single hall divided into two chambers, each with its own rock formation shaped in the guise of an elephant, and of two human figures seated next to each other. From March to October, the sunlight that comes in through the huge hole in the chambers’ ceiling casts spectacular light beams on the cave floor.
You can visit Kota Gelanggi independently, but hiring a guide from the NKS office on Jalan Besar in Jerantut saves you the hassle of organizing transportation and finding the park’s elusive ticket seller.
Arrival and Departure: Jerantut
By train Jerantut is on the Jungle Railway but both daily departures – south to Johor Bahru, at 2.21am, and north to Tumpat, at 4.23am – travel through the scenic jungle sections in the dead of night.
Destinations Dabong (1 daily; 5hr 20min); Gua Musang (1 daily; 3hr 20min); Johor Bahru (1 daily; 8hr 30min); Kuala Lipis (1 daily; 1hr 30min); Gemas (for Kuala Lumpur; 1 daily; 4hr 20min); Wakaf Bharu (for Kota Bharu; 1 daily; 8hr).
By bus The new bus station is a 5min walk northwest of the Keris roundabout at the upper end of Jalan Besar. To catch the daily 6.30pm bus to Ipoh, Butterworth, Alor Star and Kangar you must travel first to Jengka Sentral and change bus there. For Tembeling Jetty, take a bus towards Kuala Lipis and ask to be let off near the jetty, or use the backpacker minivans leaving from NKS Café (RM10/person). NKS also runs daily departures to Cameron Highlands (60RM) and Kuala Besut jetty for the Perhentian islands (RM70).
Destinations Jengka (7 daily; 1hr); Kota Bharu (1 daily at 9.30pm; 8hr); Kuala Lipis (3 daily; 1hr 30min); Kuala Lumpur (hourly 7am–7pm; 3hr 30min); Kuala Tahan (3 daily 8am, 1pm & 5pm; 1hr 45min); Kuala Terengganu (Mon at 5pm, Thurs at 8.30am & 5pm, Fri–Sun at 7.30pm; 3hr 10min); Kuantan (2–3 daily; 3hr).
By taxi Taxis from the bus station run to Tembeling Jetty (RM26), Kuala Tahan (RM70) and various east coast destinations; it’s RM200 to Kuantan, or RM440 to Kota Bharu.
By boat Boating up to Kuala Tahan on the muddy Tembeling River in motorized ten-seater sampans is an essential part of the Taman Negara experience, though you may prefer to take the faster return trip downstream. Boats to Kuala Tahan (daily at 2pm; 2hr 30min; RM45 one-way) depart from Tembeling Jetty, 17km north of Jerantut; catch NKS minivan (RM10) or taxi (RM30). Tickets can be purchased at NKS in Jerantut or the NKS and Han Travel desks at the jetty.
Accommodation
Chong Heng Backpackers’ Jalan Besar 
013 963 6019; map. This simple hostel, in a converted 1930s shophouse, is a little scruffier than it used to be. Nonetheless, the partitioned rooms and shared facilities are decent, and the owner, Tan, is a great source of information on the area. No wi-fi. RM20
Greenleaf Travellers’ Inn Jalan Diwangsa 09 267 2131, 
greenleaf-tamannegara.com; map. A homely backpackers’ place, with dorm beds and a variety of unexciting rooms with a/c and shared bathrooms. They also run package tours into the park, and non-guests can shower and get online for RM3/person. 
Dorms RM15, doubles RM35
Sakura Castle Inn S1 & S2 Jalan Bomba 09 266 6200; map. Over the road from the post office, this reliable mid-range option has spacious and clean a/c en-suite rooms in a central location. The best value in Jerantut. RM60
Sri Emas 46 Jalan Besar 09 266 4499, taman-negara-nks.com; map. Part of the NKS empire, Sri Emas offers dorms (actually just shared twin rooms) and simple and cheap private rooms with fan or a/c, some en suite and with TV. Everything’s well run, with laundry service and wi-fi (lobby only), but most rooms were in dire need of a repaint at the time of research. Dorms RM15, doubles RM35
WAU Hotel & Café Pusat Perniagaan Sungai Jan 09 260 2255, wauhotels.com; map.The closest Jerantut comes to a boutique hotel, WAU has fourteen squeaky-clean, modern en-suite rooms with TVs, plus a café in the lobby. It’s a 15min walk from the bus station: walk 500m east, take the third road on the left, and continue straight for another 600m. RM65
Eating
During the day, open-air food courts serve inexpensive pan-Asian dishes either side of the train station access road. To stock up on supplies for the park, try Aktif supermarket on Jalan Diwangsa.
RS Café Jalan Stesen 09 266 1230; map. This cool little Chinese-run café serves up the standard range of noodle and rice dishes (RM5–8), with ice-based desserts and a range of beers on tap (from RM9). Daily 2pm–1am.
Restoran Wan Chai Kok Jalan Stesen 019 911 5720; map. Local Chinese restaurant specializing in Pahang’s river fish, such as the popular ikan patin, gahak and baung (RM75–95/kg). Closed every other Thurs. Daily 5pm–12.30am.
Sayed Mohd. Aziz Jalan Besar; map. Decent roti canai, curries and nasi lemak, all for under RM10. Daily breakfast & dinner.
Directory
Banks There are banks with ATMs along Jalan Tahan and Jalan Dulang 1.
Camping and hiking gear Numerous stores on Jalan Diwangsa sell day packs, rubber shoes, canvas track shoes and flashlights; check the quality before buying, especially stitching and straps on packs.
Pharmacy Jalan Tahan holds two well-stocked pharmacies.
Kuala Tahan
Around 70km north of Jerantut, KUALA TAHAN is a knot of guesthouses and floating restaurants facing a solid green wall of jungle across the turbid, 50m-wide Tembeling River. As a base, it has many virtues: reasonable transport connections, plenty of accommodation, a few stores selling (and renting) basics, and even mobile coverage, though there are no banks or ATMs. Most importantly, the national park headquarters – where you can pick up information, register and pay park fees – is a quick ferry ride over the river at the start of the park’s hiking trails. Take a torch when wandering around the village after dark, as electricity can be flaky.
The Kuala Gandah elephant sanctuary
One attraction in the southern interior worth making a diversion for is the Kuala Gandah Elephant Conservation Centre (daily 8am–1pm & 2.30–4.30pm; donations appreciated; 013 908 8207, bit.ly/KualaGanda). Here, staff from the Wildlife Department care for elephants being relocated to reserves from areas of habitat destruction, or which had to be sedated while mengamuk – a Malay term that would be untranslatable were it not the origin of the English word “amok”. The best time to turn up is 2pm (2.45pm on Fri), when for a couple of hours visitors have the chance to get hands-on with the elephants, feeding or bathing them. Numbers are limited for bathing, though it’s possible to book your spot (RM30 guide fee/group, plus RM10/participant) up to three days in advance. The centre gets very crowded on weekends and holidays – visit midweek if possible.
If you’re driving from KL via Route E8 (east), turn north at Lanchang, about 70km along, for the twenty-minute drive to the sanctuary. Day-trips are offered from Kuala Lumpur by NKS (taman-negara-nks.com) and Han Travel (taman-negara.com); and from Jerantut through Greenleaf Holidays (RM160/person; greenleaf-tamannegara.com).
Arrival and departure: KUALA TAHAN
By bus Buses drop at a roadside shelter on the edge of Kuala Tahan, a 5min walk from the river. Buses return to Jerantut three times a day (10am, 3pm & 6.30pm; 1hr 45min).
By minibus Several tour operators run minibuses between Kuala Tahan and regional tourist destinations. Prices vary little between operators, usually with a single morning departure.
Destinations George Town (9hr; RM130); Ipoh (7hr30min; RM120); Jerantut (1hr 30min; RM25); Kota Bharu (8hr; RM100); Kuala Besut (for Perhentian islands; 7hr; RM95 or RM165 including boat ticket); Kuala Lumpur (5hr; RM75); Mersing (for Tioman Island; 8hr; RM95); Tanah Rata (for Cameron Highlands; 6hr; RM85).
By boat Arriving boats deposit passengers at the park jetty, where steps lead up to the sprawling Mutiara Taman Negara Resort and park headquarters, or among the floating restaurants on the shingle beach opposite, with Kuala Tahan village on the bank above. Tickets downstream to Tembeling (1 daily 9am; RM45) can be purchased the day before your journey at the Han Travel (Mama Chop Restaurant) or NKS (Wan Café) jetties. Once at the Tembeling Jetty, catch a bus, minibus (RM10) or taxi (RM30) to Jerantut.
By car The road to Kuala Tahan, Route 1508, branches north off Route 64 10km east of Jerantut. From KL, leave the East Coast Highway at Temerloh, heading up Route 98 for Jerantut, then pick up Route 64 eastwards for the Kuala Tahan Road. From Kuantan, pick up Route 64 at Maran.
Taman Negara packages
Besides a few short trails looping around the park headquarters, going anywhere beyond Bukit Indah requires hiring a guide, and thus many visitors prefer booking themselves on a convenient package trip. These typically comprise two or three nights at Kuala Tahan with a range of accommodation and meal options, and possibly activities such as walks and boat excursions as well; expect to pay upwards of RM350/person.
The most established operators, NKS (taman-negara-nks.com) and Han Travel (taman-negara.com), have offices in KL, Jerantut and at the Tembeling Jetty. Both have dedicated restaurants in Kuala Tahan, and NKS also runs the Sri Emas Hotel in Jerantut. Jerantut-based agents include Danz Travel (danzecoresort.com) and Greenleaf Holidays (greenleaf-tamannegara.com).
If you’re using one of the expensive but convenient minibus transfers to Kuala Tahan, your journey will typically feature a stop at the tour company offices. Despite what you may be told, there’s no need to book park accommodation or day-trips through the same company; simply shop around once you’ve arrived or call ahead.
Information
National Park Headquarters Stopping here, just north of the main park jetty, is an essential first port of call to pay the nominal entry fee, pick up a map and check the latest trail conditions (Mon–Thurs, Sat & Sun 8am–6pm, Fri 8am–noon & 3–6pm; 09 266 1122, wildlife.gov.my). You can also book hides and activity packages, charter boats and hire guides. Make sure you check the whiteboard, where the odd sightings of interesting creatures are listed; there are about fifty tigers in Taman Negara, with some three or four sightings per year, usually deep in the forest (many national park staff have never seen one).
Guides If you have a specialist interest, call the headquarters a week in advance to see if a guide with matching knowledge can be arranged. Trained by the Wildlife Department, the guides are generally better on fauna than flora, though many are experts on neither. They know the trails, but may fall short when it comes to more general skills, such as offering support in the event of a mishap.
Kuala Tahan activities
Most people who are in the park for just a few days sign up for various activity packages offered through Kuala Tahan guesthouses and tour operators. Many operators work together – you might book onto one company’s trip, only to find yourself tagging along with another (often larger) group – if in doubt, clarify before you book.
SHORT TRIPS
Night jungle walks (1hr 30min; RM30). Easy and, despite being crowded and taking place along the park’s most heavily used paths, can turn up everything from tapirs to scorpions; the sharp-eyed guides invariably spot camouflaged creatures you’d otherwise miss. Bring a torch.
Night safaris (2hr; RM45). These actually take place outside the park; you’re driven around a plantation in a 4WD, and may get to see leopard cats, wild pigs, civets and the occasional snake.
Orang Asli village visit (2hr; RM45). Shows you how to use a blowpipe and fire-making using sticks at a semi-permanent Batek encampment; very touristy, but interesting too.
RIVER TRIPS AND FISHING
Rapids shooting trips (2hr; RM40). Taking place a few kilometres upstream, these are fairly tame, designed to appeal to families rather than hard-core rafters; you’ll ride this stretch anyway if you catch a boat back from Kuala Trenggan.
Night river safaris (2hr; RM60). Trips are run on a tamer stretch of water, where you often see larger animals along the riverside.
Fishing The most popular area is along the Keniam River, northeast of Kuala Tahan, where you can hope to catch catfish or snakehead; all fish must be returned. The very basic Perkai Fishing Lodge, around 2hr upstream from Kuala Tahan, is a popular base; a boat there costs RM480, and 2D/3N packages including transport, guide and meals RM1500.
LONGER TRIPS
Guided forest walks The best operators arrange for you to stay overnight at a hide – Bumbun Kumbang is a favourite or cave; you usually make your way down to the river on the second day and catch a boat back to Kuala Tahan. Prices depend on numbers, duration and destination, but expect to pay at least RM200/person for an all-inclusive two-day, one-night trip.
Accommodation
Almost all accommodation is in the village of Kuala Tahan itself, with the exception of the Mutiara resort on the opposite bank. Book in advance, especially during the peak season (May–Aug). Should you wish to overnight in the forest, the best option is to use one of five hides; these sleep up to twelve people in bare wooden bunks (bring your own bedding), and some have tank water and toilets.
Abot Guesthouse At the top of the hill from the bus stop 017 916 9616, facebook.com/AbotGH; map. Low-set house with ten cosy en-suite rooms in two blocks, all with a/c. Light sleepers should avoid rooms facing the road from the bus stop. RM90
Durian Chalet A 5min walk past Tahan Guesthouse, down a steep hill and through a small stand of rubber trees 012 9496 630; map. Double rooms and chalets with mosquito nets and shack-like bathrooms, clustered around a pretty hillside garden with a teeming fishpond – a great place to get away from it all. Breakfast available (extra). Doubles RM40, chalets RM50
Han Rainforest Resort 300m down the road from X-Cape Resort 09 266 7888, han-rainforestresort.com; map. Han Tours’ efforts to accommodate both backpackers and package tourists under the same roof produced this one-size-fits-all concrete monster. There are three sections: a budget block with dorms and doubles, a zone with spacious yet cookie-cutter standards (RM180), and a wing with superior en-suites (RM250). The airy common area packs a lot of travellers, busy enjoying Kuala Tahan’s fastest wi-fi. Dorms RM35, doubles RM90
I Am Wild Travellers On the river road 016 989 3588, facebook.com/IAmWildTravellers; map. Newly refurbished backpacker place with twenty-odd beds in fan rooms overlooking the river, all with plush mattresses, free wi-fi and hot showers. The hostel runs its own treks, tours and onward minivan transport. The balcony is a popular evening hangout, with occasional live music. Dorms RM25
Mahseer Chalet Walk left from the main view deck and beyond the kindergarten 019 383 2633, facebook.com/MahseerChalet; map. Good value rooms and dorms in chalets set around an open-air cafeteria facing the quieter bend of the river. Breakfast included. Dorms RM25, doubles RM90
Mutiara Taman Negara Resort In front of the national park headquarters, across the river from Kuala Tahan 09 266 2200, mutiaratamannegara.com; map. Busy three-star resort occupying a strip of land between the river and forest, mostly comprising a/c chalets with spacious bathrooms, woven bamboo walls, cane furniture and jungle or river views. There’s also an expensive, institutional dorm with bunk beds. Boat transfers to and from Tembeling can be arranged for a fee. Buffet breakfast included. Dorm RM80, chalets RM340
Rainbow Guesthouse Next to Mahseer Chalet 017 9115 473; map. A handful of homely and clean rainbow-coloured en-suite twins and doubles, set inside a Malay household, that offer a relaxing peek into Kuala Tahan’s daily life. RM80
Tahan Guesthouse By the mosque 017 970 2025; map. This 20-year-old stalwart is a well-kept two-storey affair, brightly painted with wildlife murals, and set in a relaxing child-friendly garden where hornbills come to snag fruit. Accommodation comprises en-suite twins and doubles, all fan-cooled with mosquito nets and squat toilets; the double rooms have small balconies. The only downside is the morning call to prayer from the mosque at 5.30am. Walk uphill from the bus stop, following the main road for about 50m; turn right after the mini market, continue past the police station, and it’s 3min along on the right. RM40
Xcape Resort Just south of Kuala Tahan 09 266 1111, xcapetamannegara.com; map. One of a handful of incongruous developments in this area, Xcape offers a pool, regimented rows of chalets with characterless but comfortable rooms – featuring a/c, TV, fridge and modern bathroom – and Kuala Tahan’s cleanest and best-value four-person dorms. That said, the dorms are way out at the back of a field, an off-putting trek from the wi-fi-equipped lobby. Breakfast is RM30 extra. Dorms RM30, chalets RM240
PICKING UP trekking gear and supplies
Camping and trekking gear
Mat Leon’s floating store (daily 9am–6pm) rents out well-worn sleeping bags and mats, canvas jungle boots, tents, mosquito nets, backpacks, flashlights and gas stoves. Minimarts around town sell torches, batteries, rubber ankle boots and day packs; a few places near the bus stop sell dry bags.
Supplies
Kuala Tahan’s minimarts (roughly daily 8am–10pm) sell water, biscuits and snacks, tinned sardines, soft drinks, ice cream, insect repellent and toothpaste. Across the river, the only store is a pricey one attached to the Mutiara Taman Negara Resort.
Eating
Most visitors gravitate towards the row of ten or so floating, glorified kedai kopis moored beside the shingle beach. Opening around 8am and not closing until well into the evening, the restaurants offer the usual rice and noodle dishes, plus Western travellers’ favourites including pancakes, sandwiches and milk shakes. The establishments we review are the most popular, but other places often serve similar food at lower cost. If you’re in need of a drink, you could try the bar in the Xcape Resort car park; alcohol is also served at the Seri Mutiara.
Family On the river; map. With its view of the river, bamboo blinds and potted orchids, it’s easy to see why this place is constantly packed with tourists. They don’t like solo diners, however, especially in the evening, and staff can be quite abrupt. Mains RM10. Daily 8am–2pm & 6–9pm.
Mama Chop On the river; map. Housing the Han Travel headquarters means that Mama Chop has a captive audience of visitors waiting to begin tours, enabling them to charge high prices for average food and lacklustre service. Though it’s open all day, it can be hard to get served outside main meal times. Mains around RM10. Daily 8am–9pm.
Seri Mutiara Beside the Mutiara resort 09 266 2200, mutiarahotels.com; map. This smart, open-sided dining room in the jungle is well worth a splurge if you’ve been out in the wilds for a few days. The menu is geared to Taman Negara’s better-heeled Malay and Western guests – pizza, nasi lemak, prawn sambal, T-bone steak, rendang – and the relatively steep prices reflect this, though a coffee and slice of black forest gateau will set you back RM40 or so. Around RM85/100 for a full meal. Daily 8am–2pm & 6–9pm.
Day treks
Cross the river and turn right at the national park headquarters, and you’re at the start of most of the hiking trails that spread into the park. Popular and easy places to visit close to the park headquarters include Bukit Teresek; the canopy walkway, where you can observe treetop jungle life close up; and the waterfall at Lata Berkoh (following the first part of the trail there is a good way to kill a couple of spare hours). You could feasibly tackle two, perhaps three, of these in a day, and none of them require a guide.
Bukit Teresek
2.5km one-way from the park headquarters; 1hr
Although it’s the most heavily used trail in the park, the route to the summit of Bukit Teresek (342m) is an excellent starter trek, taking about an hour in each direction along a boardwalk. Heading northeast away from the river, the trail passes an impressive stand of giant bamboo before ascending Bukit Teresek itself via a steep series of fibreglass steps; if you haven’t already noticed the sauna-like conditions, you will now. The clanking of your shoes against the fibreglass is enough to scare off most wildlife, so content yourself with the promise of views – though the clearing at the top is partially screened by trees. Continue along the hilltop for another fifteen minutes to reach the so-called second view, where on clear days you can get marvellous vistas north over the valley to 2187m-high Mount Tahan and smaller Mount Gedong. Return the way you came and the canopy walkway will be just 300m to the south along a clearly marked path, or make the more challenging descent from the second view to the side of the Tahan River, from where you can loop back to the park headquarters (3km; 1hr 30min).
Canopy walkway
Mon–Thurs, Sat & Sun 9.30am–3.00pm, Fri 9am–noon; closed during rain or if lightning is likely; numbers are limited, so waits possible • RM5
About thirty-minute walk from the national park office along the boardwalk, the canopy walkway is one of Taman Negara’s highlights – though it’s better for views down over the canopy to the Tembeling River than wildlife spotting. You climb a sturdy wooden tower and step out, 30m above the forest floor, onto a 330m-long swaying aluminium bridge, anchored to some suitably placed, 250-year-old tualang trees. Animals you may well see include the grey-banded leaf monkey, with a call that sounds like a rattling tin can, and the white-eyed dusky leaf monkey, with its deep, nasal “ha-haw” cry. At the end, you return to terra firma by another wooden stairwell.
Bukit Indah
3.5km from the park headquarters; 2hr
The route to Bukit Indah follows the boardwalk as far as the canopy walkway, before continuing along a rougher trail towards Kuala Trenggan and Bumbun Kumbang. After about 3km you’ll see a signposted path leading to a 500m scramble. Use the fixed ropes to haul yourself up to the top of Bukit Indah, and enjoy views over the Tembeling River.
Hiking from Kuala Tahan
The shortest hiking trails from Kuala Tahan are clearly signposted and easy to follow, but to go any distance beyond Bukit Indah, hiring a guide is compulsory. Exposed to the elements and the passage of migrating elephant herds, the trails quickly deteriorate into slippery tangles of roots and leaf litter. If you’re moderately fit, the hiking time estimates given out by the park authorities (and in the text of this Guide) are pretty reliable; expect to average 2km/hour.
Even on the very simple day hikes, you should inform park staff of your plans so they know where to look if you get into difficulty. You won’t be able to phone for help, as the mobile phone signal dies out just a little way from Kuala Tahan. Perhaps the most important advice is to know your limitations and not run out of time. Slipping and sliding along in the dark is no fun and can be dangerous – thus, if you start hiking after 4pm, you will still need a guide even before Bukit Indah.
Don’t be paranoid about encountering large wildlife – in fact, you could count yourself very lucky if you do, as most animals don’t hang around after they hear you coming. Unfortunately, there’s almost no way you can avoid getting bitten by a few leeches, whose numbers increase dramatically after rain; there are a few general guidelines, however, on keeping them at bay.
Kemah Keladong
5km from the park headquarters; 3hr
In the quiet Kemah Keladong area, 5km downriver from Kuala Tahan on the far side of the Tembeling River, trails link the Blau and Yong hides with a campsite at Kemah Keladong. They can be tackled either by catching a boat to drop-off points for the hides (15–20min), or by crossing by sampan to a trailhead just up the Tahan River from Kuala Tahan and hiking – in which case, allow a full day for the return trip. A major attraction of this route used to be Telinga Cave, but the cave – home to thousands of tiny roundleaf bats – has been off-limits since a roof collapse in 2013.
From the turn-off to Telinga Cave the trail continues for another 2km through beautiful tall forest, past the Yong and Blau hides, to where the trail divides. North is the track to Kemah Rentis, while southeast it’s just 500m to the tranquil Kemah Keladong campsite on the terraced bank of the Yong River. With an early start, it’s possible to reach this point, have a swim in the river and get back before dusk.
Lata Berkoh
8.5km; 4hr from the park headquarters; a guide is compulsory if not travelling directly by boat • Return boat trip RM160
Most visitors catch a boat (at least in one direction) to the roaring rapids of Lata Berkoh, around 8.5km up the Tahan River; the return trip is a long way to walk in a day, and if water levels are high you may face a swim across the river near the end.
The trail from the park headquarters leads gently downhill. About fifteen minutes on is an excellent swimming spot, Lubok Simpon, a deep pool in the Tahan River next to a pebbled beach. After another 2km you pass the turning for Bumbun Tabing and then, 5km from the park headquarters, the Lubok Lesong campsite. The route to the waterfall veers west from the main trail, crossing gullies and steep ridges before reaching the river, which must be forded. The final part of the trail runs up the west side of the Tahan River, passing the simple Berkoh Lodge, a small shelter in a clearing and a campsite before reaching the falls.
The waterfall itself drops into a deep pool with surprisingly clear water for swimming (tread carefully around the large rocks on the river bed). You can picnic here, too, overlooking the swirling water. Keep eyes peeled for kingfishers with their yellow-and-red wings and white beaks; large grey-and-green fish eagles; and, on the rocks, camouflaged monitor lizards.
Overnight trips
There are a number of possible guided overnight trips. The 24km-long, two-to three-day trail northeast of Kuala Tahan to Kuala Keniam involves overnighting in the jungle, either at Bumbun Kumbang or one of several caves, with the chance of seeing large animals, after which you could organize a boat back to base, rather than having to retrace your steps. If you’re pushed for time or simply not so dedicated, hiking as far as Bumbun Kumbang (12km), staying the night there, then taking the alternative return trail – or again, catching a boat – is an excellent compromise. Note that you need to arrange any boat transfers before you head out, and that guides are compulsory.
Kuala Tahan hides (blinds)
Spending a night in one of the park’s hides (known as bumbuns) doesn’t guarantee sightings of large mammals, especially in the dry season when the salt licks – where plant-eating animals come to supplement their mineral intake – are often so waterless that there’s little reason for deer, tapir, elephant, leopard or seladang to visit, but it’s an experience you’re unlikely to forget. It’s best to go in a group and take turns keeping watch, listening hard and occasionally shining a torch at the salt lick – if an animal is present its eyes will reflect brightly in the beam.
Kuala Tahan’s five hides are covered in the hiking trail accounts in this Guide. We have also listed details of costs and time-saving boat rides to/from the hides.
Trails to Bumbun Kumbang
10–12km from the park headquarters; 5–7hr hike, depending on route • Boat to Kuala Tahan (45min) RM120
Both the two trails to Bumbun Kumbang are fairly damp and muddy. The longer, flatter, easier route initially follows the Lata Berkoh Trail, then arcs northeast to the narrow Trenggan River – which has to be waded across, and may be impassable after heavy rain – beyond which you’re just 1km from the hide.
The tougher, more direct route follows the Tembeling River upstream past the Bukit Indah turn-off, crossing numerous creeks, each involving a steep, slippery descent and clamber up the far side. Eventually things settle down, and you will see a permanent settlement of the Batek people after crossing the small Trenggan River bridge. The path seems to peter out on the far side, but keep going and you soon come to a definite junction. Turn left and Bumbun Kumbang is a thirty-minute walk; right, and it’s 1km to Kuala Trenggan, where some broken-down wooden cabins overlook the confluence of the Tembeling and Trenggan rivers.
Bumbun Kumbang
Book bunks through the park headquarters
Raised high off the ground on concrete posts, the Bumbun Kumbang hide sits at the edge of a clearing, about 200m from a natural salt lick that attracts animals at wetter times of the year. As always, seeing anything is down to luck, though scan the muddy trails nearby and you’ll often find three-toed tapir prints. Carrying binoculars and a powerful torch is a good idea.
FROM TOP THE JUNGLE RAILWAY; KUALA LIPIS
Bumbun Kumbang to Kuala Keniam
8km one-way, 4–5hr
The superb hike between Bumbun Kumbang and Kuala Keniam forms the basis of most tour operators’ shortest overnight treks, and combines the real possibility of seeing elephants with visits to three caves, one of which is big enough for an army to camp in. The trail is slow going, even in drier conditions, with innumerable streams to wade through, hills to circumvent and trees blocking the path. Most groups take two days, typically hiking this route in reverse and overnighting at Kempayang Besar.
Limestone caves
From Bumbun Kumbang, it takes around three hours on a boggy trail before you enter limestone cave country, first reaching Kepayang Kecil. A line of fig trees here drops a curtain of roots down the rock, behind which lies a small chamber, with a slightly larger one to the right, containing stalactites and stalagmites. A short way on is much larger Kepayang Besar, where the huge chamber at the eastern side of the outcrop makes an excellent place to spend the night, especially as you can dispense with tents. Despite its popularity with trekkers (on public holidays, the cave can see upwards of a hundred people overnighting here), civets and leopard cats are often seen after dark. Fifteen minutes north are Luas Cave and more impressive Daun Menari Cave (“Cave of the Dancing Leaves”), a breezy chamber inhabited by thousands of roundleaf bats.
The jungle railway
Riding the scenic Jungle Railway used to be one of Peninsular Malaysia’s highlights and the best way to reach or leave Taman Negara. Sadly, in December 2014 the route – officially the less romantic “Sektor Timur–Selatan” (East–South Route) – was damaged by severe floods. Since resuming in 2016, the limited services are no longer convenient either for seeing the jungle or reaching Taman Negara.
Nonetheless, the Jungle Railway maintains great historical significance: it took indentured Tamil labourers eight years to build the line’s 500km-long section from Gemas, southeast of KL, to Tumpat, on the northeast coast near Kota Bharu. The first section from Gemas to Kuala Lipis opened in 1920, with the full extent of the line following in 1931. Initially it was used exclusively for freight – tin and rubber, and later oil palm – until a passenger service, originally known as the “Golden Blowpipe”, opened in 1938. At the time of writing, only two daily overnight trains make the complete 700km journey between Johor Bahru and Kota Bharu, travelling mostly in the dead of night. Southbound ERT27 leaves Wakaf Bharu at 6.18pm, stops in Jerantut at 2.21am, and reaches Johor Bahru at 11.10am. Northbound ERT26 leaves Johor Bahru at 7pm, stops in Jerantut at 4.23am, and arrives in Wakaf Bharu at 12.37pm. The northbound train is the best option for jungle views, as it travels for six hours in daylight between Merapoh and Wakaf Bharu – arguably the most pristine sector of the line. Note that by virtue of its existence, the line doesn’t pass through virgin jungle; much of the route is flanked by regrowth forest and belukar woodland, as well as plantations of rubber, pepper and oil palm. None of this is to detract from the fact that as a way to encounter rural life, a ride on the jungle train can’t be beaten, giving you the chance to take in backwater scenery in the company of cheroot-smoking old men in sarongs, and fast-talking women hauling kids, poultry and vegetables to and from the nearest market.
The best way to reach Jerantut from Taman Negara via some jungle views is to catch southbound train SH57 from Wakaf Bharu (2.19pm), alight at Gua Musang (8.30pm), and immediately board the connecting train to Kuala Lipis (arrival 11.07pm). Continue by bus to Jerantut the next day.
Buy tickets at the station (you shouldn’t need to book in advance except on express services during school holidays) or through KTM’s website (www.ktmb.com.my) and Easybook (easybook.com). Don’t expect luxury: the Jungle Railway’s rolling stock is worn and fairly ordinary, with several classes of simple sleepers and seats available on all routes. Check current schedules at KTM’s website before you set off.
Kuala Keniam
Once beyond the limestone band, the rest of the route to Kuala Keniam passes through a meranti forest of tall, straight trees with distinctive reddish-brown bark, much prized as timber. Finally, you reach the river at Kuala Keniam, where there’s a campsite and jetty for boats back to Kuala Tahan (RM300).
Longer trails
For the two major long-distance hiking trails at Taman Negara, you’ll need to hire guides and bring full camping and trekking gear, including food, cooking equipment and water-purifying tablets. The four-day Mount Tahan Trail, undoubtedly the toughest in the park, culminates in the ascent of Peninsular Malaysia’s highest peak, after which you have to hike out again, perhaps via the alternative, shorter trail to Merapoh; you’ll definitely need sleeping bags for a couple of nights spent at altitude. The other option is the three-to-four-day Tenor Trail, a lasso-shaped trek leading west from Kuala Tahan to Telinga Cave, then northwest to the campsite on the Tenor River. Either way, expect to see plenty of jungle, and to get soaked during river crossings and rain; allow a day extra either side of the trek to sort out arrangements.
Mount Tahan Trail
55km one-way, nine-day return from Kuala Tahan • Book in advance
To the Batek Orang Asli, Mount Tahan – Peninsular Malaysia’s highest peak at 2187m – is the Forbidden Mountain, its summit the home of a vast monkey, who stands guard over magic stones. Though the Batek rarely venture beyond the foothills, ascending Mount Tahan is the highlight of any adventurous visitor’s stay in Taman Negara. Although hundreds complete the trail every year, the sense of individual achievement after tackling the innumerable river crossings, steep hills and nights camping in the jungle – let alone the arduous ascent – is supreme.
Days 1–2
The first day involves an easy six-hour walk from Kuala Tahan to Melantai, the campsite on the east bank of the Tahan River, not far from Lata Berkoh. On the second day more ground is covered, the route taking eight hours and crossing 27 hills, including a long trudge up Bukit Malang (“Unlucky Hill”). This section culminates at Mount Rajah (576m), before descending to the Puteh River, a tiny tributary of the Tahan. Before the campsite at Kuala Teku you’ll ford the Tahan half a dozen times.
If you’re really enjoying the hike, consider a two-day detour from Kuala Teku to Four-Steps Waterfall, east of Mount Tahan. The trail up to it follows the course of the Tahan River for eight hours, right to the foot of the 30m-high falls.
Day 3
The third day on the trail to Mount Tahan sees you climb from 168m to 1100m in seven hours of steady, unrelenting legwork, leaving you on a ridge. Prominent among the large trees here is seraya, with a reddish-brown trunk, though as the ridge runs west these are replaced by montane oak forest, where elephant tracks are common. The night is spent at the Mount Tahan base camp, Wray’s Camp, named after the leader of the first team to climb the mountain in 1905.
Day 4: to the summit
Day four involves six hours of hard climbing along steep gullies, ending up at Padang Camp, on the Tangga Lima Belas Ridge, sited on a plateau sheltered by tall trees. The summit is now only two and a half hours away, through open, hilly ground with knee-high plants, exposed rocks and peaty streams. The trail follows a ridge and soon reaches Mount Tahan’s summit; provided it’s clear, there’s a stupendous view of around 50km in all directions. Weather conditions up here can’t be relied upon, however: the moss forest, which dominates above 1500m, is often shrouded in cloud.
On from the summit
Most hikers make a straight return trip, spending the fifth night back at the padang, the sixth at the Puteh River, and reaching Kuala Tahan late on day seven. It’s also possible to continue westwards from the mountain for a further two days, completing a traverse of the park and exiting Taman Negara at Merapoh. For more information about this route, contact a Merapoh-based tour operator.
Tenor Trail
30km circuit from Kuala Tahan; 3–4 days
Shorter and not as tough as the hike to Mount Tahan, the mostly low-lying Tenor Trail is more likely to be flooded out during extra-wet conditions, but is otherwise an extremely satisfying trek, with a few easy ascents to viewpoints along the way.
Day 1
On day one, initially the Tenor Trail follows the track southwest from Kuala Tahan to Telinga Cave and the Yong hide, before bearing northwest along the small Yong River and reaching the campsite at Kemah Yong, around 10km from the start.
A side trail from here ascends Bukit Guling Gendang (570m), a steep hour-and-a-half climb best undertaken in the morning. Towards the summit the terrain changes from lowland tropical to montane forest, where tall conifer trees allow light to penetrate to the forest floor and squirrels predominate, with the black giant and cream giant the main species. From the top, views reach north to Mount Tahan, west to Siput Cave and beyond that to Bukit Peningat (713m), the highest limestone outcrop in Peninsular Malaysia.
Day 2
From Kemah Yong campsite, the main trail continues on day two into the upper catchment of the Yong River, then over a low saddle into the catchment of the Rentis River. The path narrows through thick forest alongside the river, crossing it several times, until it joins the Tenor River three hours later, marked by a remote and beautiful riverside clearing, Kemah Rentis, where you camp, roughly at the halfway point.
Day 3
You can make it back to Kuala Tahan in one day from Kemah Rentis, though many people take it easy and rest up in one of the campsites along the way. Following the river downstream through undulating terrain on day three brings you first to rapids at Lata Keitiah, beyond which there’s a campsite at Kemah Lameh. You’re now in lowland open forest where walking is fairly easy; after four hours the trail leads to Bumbun Cegar Anjing (another possible overnight stop) from where it’s a final 3km to Kuala Tahan.
North through the interior
North of Jerantut, Route 8 and the parallel Jungle Railway run around 350km to Kota Bharu, up on the east coast. Head this way if you want to spend time among the region’s abundant forests and limestone hills at Kenong Rimba State Park, reach the alternative entrances to Taman Negara at Merapoh and Kuala Koh, or trek along forested waterfall trails at Gunung Stong State Park. Settlements along the way – including relatively substantial Gua Musang and Kuala Lipis – are more jumping-off points for nearby sections of wilds, rather than destinations in their own right. For a change from jungle trekking, experience southern Kelantan’s unique Chinese culture at limestone-strewn Kampung Pulai, one of the oldest Hakka settlements in Malaysia.
Essentials: north through the interior
Banks The only regional banks are at Kuala Lipis and Gua Musang, though there is an ATM in Dabong, near Mount Stong.
Climate Conditions are damp throughout the year, though driest from April to Sept; you’ll need to check in advance about access if heading here during the wet season (Nov–Jan).
Kenong Rimba State Park
Covering 128 square kilometres and backing onto the remote southwestern corner of Taman Negara, Kenong Rimba State Park offers jungle trails, riverside camping, mammal-spotting and excellent birdwatching, plus the likelihood of crossing paths with the nomadic Batek people. You can see the main sights in five days, on a 50km-long loop through the park past a series of caves, the seven-step Lata Kenong waterfall and limestone outcrops with rock-climbing potential. If you’ve only time for a brief visit, explore the caves strung out along the main trail, stop overnight at the Mount Kesong campsite and retrace your steps the following day.
The park is far less developed than the area around Kuala Tahan, and trails quickly get overgrown – arranging a tour from Kuala Lipis, or at least a guide, is mandatory to access the reserve. Make sure you bring everything you’ll need with you.
Arrival and tours: KENONG RIMBA STATE PARK
Travelling independently
By boat Kenong Rimba lies about 20km east of Kuala Lipis; the nearest village is Kuala Kenong, from where you can get a boat to the trailhead at Tanjung Kiara. All boats are by arrangement only, through your guide or an agent. Kuala Kenong to the Tanjung Kiara jetty costs RM10/person.
TOURS
Though it’s possible to explore Kenong Rimba independently, it’s much easier to visit on a tour from Kuala Lipis; guides, transport, meals and accommodation (in cabins or tents) are all part of the deal.
Appu’s Jungle Treks First floor of the building opposite the Kuala Lipis train station; access on Jalan Besar 017 947 1520, 
jungleappu@yahoo.com. Appu has been exploring Kenong Rimba since the 1990s, and organizes budget hiking and camping trips in the park. Die-hards can make a six-to-seven-day circuit with him, on which the trekking can be quite tough, despite short daily distances. Expect to pay RM80/person/day (minimum four people) including food, plus RM150 return/group to cover transport, and RM15 for the park entry fee.
Kiara Holidays Level 4, Centrepoint Complex, Kuala Lipis 09 312 2777, centrepointhotel.com.my/pkiaraholidays.html. Don’t be put off by their threadbare office or the shabby building; the friendly staff can arrange packages from RM328/person including transfers, meals and accommodation in tents. Rafting also available.
Accommodation and Eating
To camp in the park costs RM5 per person per night; the most established campsite is at Mount Kesong, about 2hr in from the entrance, with the popular Kenong campsite another 5hr north of here at Lata Kenong waterfall. Some chalets are available, but your guide must book them through the Forestry Department at least one month before your visit, and their quality is not guaranteed.
Kuala Lipis
It’s hard to believe that KUALA LIPIS, 50km northwest of Jerantut, was the state capital of Pahang from 1898 to 1955. Today, it’s a sleepy, inconsequential place, situated at the confluence of the Lipis and Jelai rivers and surrounded by rolling hills and plantations. There are a few mementos from colonial days – many associated with the veteran administrator, Sir Hugh Clifford (the Pahang Resident 1896–1905), plus plenty of shops and places to eat, but Kuala Lipis’s biggest draw is access to the relatively unvisited rainforest trails at nearby Kenong Rimba State Park.
Old town
Kuala Lipis started life as a trading centre for gaharu (a fragrant aloe wood used to make joss sticks) and other jungle products, collected by the Semiar and traded with Chinese towkays. The remnants of these origins survive in the old town, a busy grid of pastel-coloured shophouses squeezed between the railway and the Jelai River, where the jetty and steps still stand, though goods no longer arrive and depart by river. Overlooking the river to the west, the small, tin-roofed Masjid Negeri, dating from 1888, was reputedly founded by a trader from Yemen.
Pahang Club
Jalan Pahang Club
Incongruously hidden behind the huge new hospital, the Pahang Club dates to 1907. It’s an archetypal tropical colonial building, a sprawling structure of whitewashed timber with black trim and wrap-around verandah, raised slightly off the ground on stumps as protection against damp and termites – which, given the lean on the building, clearly hasn’t been entirely successful, and the club has fallen into disuse.
Lipis District Office
Kuala Lipis was chosen as a headquarters for the colonial government despite the town’s relative isolation – the trip upriver from Singapore took more than two weeks, and there was no road out until the 1890s – though minor tin deposits brought short-lived prosperity. These boom days led to the construction of the surprisingly large Lipis District Office, which overlooks Kuala Lipis from a hilltop 1km southeast of town; a solid crimson-and-white Edwardian edifice, it now serves as local government offices.
Clifford School
Below the District Office, at the back of green playing fields, Clifford School was built in 1913 and part-funded by Hugh Clifford; the original buildings are at the far end of the compound, visible from Jalan Pahang Club. The school is still one of a select group where the country’s leaders and royalty are educated – though these days it’s equally well known for being the alma mater of Malaysia’s biggest-selling female pop star, Siti Nurhaliza.
Bukit Residen
A small rise just south of town is crowned by Bukit Residen, a graceful two-storey house built in the 1890s as Hugh Clifford’s residence. Clifford arrived in Malaysia in 1883, aged seventeen, and worked his way up through the colonial administration, serving in Malaysia, Sri Lanka and West Africa before ending his career as the Malaya High Commissioner in 1930. The house’s associations are more interesting than the building itself – it’s now the Government Rest House – though it does enjoy great views over the surrounding hills.
Arrival and information: Kuala Lipis
By train Kuala Lipis’s 1926 train station is right in the old town (ticket office daily 9am–4.30pm; 09 312 1341), on the Jungle Railway line. Check www.ktmb.com.my for the latest.
Destinations Dabong (1 daily at 5.37am; 4hr); Gua Musang via Merapoh (1 daily at 3am & 1.30pm; 2hr); Jerantut (1 daily at 1.16am; 1hr 30min); Johor Bahru (1 daily; 9hr); Kuala Lumpur (change at Gemas; 1 daily at 1.16am; 9hr); Wakaf Bharu (for Kota Bharu, change at Gua Musang; 1 daily at 3am & 1.30pm; 8hr).
By bus The main bus station, Terminal Anggerik, sits 1km north of the centre; cross the river, head up the hill and turn right into the small cluster of shops, where you’ll see the open-sided barn of a station.
Destinations Jerantut (3 daily; 1hr 30min); Kuala Lumpur (hourly 6.30am–6.30pm; 4hr); Kota Bharu (via Gua Musang; 1 daily at 11.30am; 5hr 30min); Kuantan (2 daily; 6hr); Sungai Koyan (for Cameron Highlands; 4 daily; 2hr).
Bank There’s a Maybank with ATM on Jalan Besar.
Laundry A same-day laundry service is available on Jalan Jelai.
Accommodation
Bestari 42–43 Lorong BBKL, just north of town 09 312 6626; map. A 5min walk from the bus station on the opposite side of the main road, this modern, motel-like affair, owned by the Hotel Jelai group, is popular with travelling business people; they take credit cards and the spacious en-suite rooms all have cable TV and a/c. RM100
Hotel London 82 Jalan Besar 09 312 1618; map. Beyond the dull facade, the orange-painted interiors of the London impress with an array of freshly renovated yet tiny rooms, and modern dorms with private curtains. This is the closest Kuala Lipis gets to a backpacker joint. Dorms RM30, doubles RM48
Jelai Hillview 7 Jalan Bukit Bius 09 312 3598, hoteljelai.com/lipis-hillview-index; map. The second branch of this franchise hotel feels smarter than its predecessor on the riverside, offering a series of decent en-suite rooms that are good value for the price. Book ahead; they’re often full. RM60
Lipis Plaza Komplex Taipan Jalan Benta-Lipis 09 312 5521, lipisplaza.com; map. Spacious but rather plain rooms in a modern complex at the base of Bukit Residen. Rates include breakfast. RM100
Poly Star 5 Jalan Bukit Bius 09 312 3225; map. Not as well looked after as it used to be, the rooms here are smallish, with basic furnishings, attached bathrooms and a/c. Not much English is spoken. RM58
Residen Inn (Government Rest House) Bukit Residen 09 312 2788; map. Hugh Clifford’s former home is now a rather odd guesthouse with an abandoned museum on the ground floor and fifteen vast en-suite rooms in dire need of renovation. The on-site Thai restaurant has good-value set menus. A taxi from town will cost around RM10. RM100
Eating
The area around the taxi stand holds a few despondent Malay stalls, but there’s more atmosphere to be had in the bustling kedai kopis that line the covered arcade between Jalan Besar and Jalan Jelai. There’s also a night market with plenty of food from 3pm every Fri in the purpose-built Kompleks Melati next to the bus station, a 15min walk from the old town. For trekking supplies, if you can’t find what you need along Jalan Besar, head south of the tracks to the Aktif supermarket on the ground floor of the Centrepoint Complex – a shoddy, graffiti-covered block awaiting redevelopment.
Restoran Pak Boh Recipe Overlooking town from the north bank of the river, near the Bestari Hotel 09 312 6082; map. In a great setting over the river, this place has a jungle theme with rattan decor, potted palms and water misters. The food – from staples such as noodle soup and chicken chop ‘n’ chips, through to beef stew with medicinal herbs – is adequate but rather overpriced. Mains RM10–25. Daily 11.30am–11.30pm.
Selvamalar 94 Jalan Besar 09 312 2422; map. A terrific, friendly Tamil curry house with the usual spread of fiery food for around RM10, as well as roti canai, nasi lemak and mee goreng at breakfast; go for lunch over dinner, as they often run out of the tastiest curries come evening. Daily 6.30am–8pm.
Merapoh
The tiny market town of MERAPOH, served by road and rail 80km north of Kuala Lipis, marks a 7km-long access road east to Taman Negara’s western entrance, officially known as Sungai Relau. This is the only part of Taman Negara where a proper vehicle road runs deep into the park, providing access to the trails – most famously that to Mount Tahan. There’s not much point in turning up here with your own car, however, as the 14km-long park road is closed to private vehicles, and all trails – even the easiest strolls around the park’s headquarters – require hiring a guide. What might make it worth stumping up for guide fees and official transportation is the chance of seeing elephants, as well as leopard cats, civets, otters and banting – a mix of buffalo and seladang. A new tree-top walk should open here by 2020.
Into the park
RM1, RM5 camera fee • 09 915 0214, wildlife.gov.my
Beyond the park office and picnic ground, cross the little Relau River via a small bridge and you’ll come to the narrow surfaced road that undulates through the jungle. Several trails lead off the initial few kilometres, including Rentis Gajah (“Elephant Trail”), leading south off the road to Gajah Cave, though you can’t hike here independently; allow four hours for the return trip from the gate, plus an hour exploring.
Driving a few kilometres along the jeep track will take you to the 12m-high, red Menara Bukit Seraya, an observation tower with views of forested ridges and valleys to the north, and, on a clear day, east to Mount Tahan. Some 2km beyond Bukit Seraya is Air Terjun Sungai Kelam, a pretty waterfall in a secluded woodland setting.
The road ends at Kuala Juram, where trees overhang the Juram River, a stretch of which teems with kelah (mahseer), and where it’s possible to kayak and fish. The suspension bridge over the river here is the gateway to the Mount Tahan mountain trail.
Arrival and Departure: Merapoh
By bus There’s no bus station, but the daily bus between Kuala Lipis or Kuala Lumpur and Gua Musang can drop you off; local tour operators can also deliver/collect from Gua Musang, just 30min north (RM15–20/person one way).
By train Merapoh train station is just west of Route 8. There is no local transport between the station and the park; if you can’t get a ride, you can walk it: it takes 2hr to walk the rolling 7km through oil palm plantations.
Destinations Dabong (1 daily at 7.15am; 2hr 30min); Gua Musang (3 daily; 40min); Kuala Lipis (3 daily; 2hr); Johor Bahru (1 daily at 11.26pm; 10hr 30min); Wakaf Bharu (for Kota Bharu; 1 daily at 7.15am; 5hr 15min).
Tours and Guides
Guides cost RM24/person/day (minimum five people) or RM100 per jeep. The park headquarters quotes RM150/day per guide for a maximum of twelve people; agencies are slightly more expensive. The four-day trek from Merapoh up Mount Tahan and back costs RM950; a week-long traverse of the park between Merapoh and Kuala Tahan costs RM1400.
Merapoh Adventure Along the main road leading to the access road, 09 912 2321 or 019 372 1812, facebook.com/merapohadventure. Reliable local operator offering a wide range of tours, from multi-day caving explorations (RM190–RM420), canoeing and fishing inside and outside Taman Negara, and the five-day to a week-long Mount Tahan hike. All prices include permits and insurance. They can also arrange accommodation in private homes where you can use the kitchen, an ideal option for self-catering groups (from RM30/person per day).
Relau Agency Merapoh 017 915 3034. This established operator organizes tours and local transport. Trekking guides cost RM180/day for groups of up to eight, plus RM80/night per group for overnight stays. Fees include RM10/person for the ride between Merapoh and the park gates; and RM65/person for a night safari (minimum four people). Their drivers tend to speak little English, but park staff should be able to smooth communication once you’ve arrived.
SGI Outdoor 200m towards the park from Merapoh down the access road 09 912 1443, natureguidemerapoh.webs.com. This operation arranges accommodation in Merapoh, plus tours and transport into the park; they also run multi-day caving trips in the surrounding area (from RM89/day; add RM30 for insurance). Tents (RM10) and sleeping bags (RM5) are available to rent from their welcoming offices; there’s also a decent range of gear (including boots and waterproofs) for sale. As for Relau Agency, trekking guides cost RM180/day for groups of up to eight, plus RM80/night for overnight stays.
Accommodation and Eating
It makes sense to base yourself 7km away in Merapoh to use the clutch of guesthouses and kedai kopis along the main road, as food and accommodation options are very limited in this part of Taman Negara. If camping at the park headquarters, you’ll need to bring all your own food and cooking gear.
Park Headquarters 09 915 0214, tamannegara-sungairelau.com. For the time being, accommodation at the park is limited to a campsite equipped with toilets, showers and a covered seating area for dining. Camping per person RM1.
Speleo Inn Merapoh, not far from Route 8 09 912 1443. Simple bunk-bed dorms run by SGI Outdoor, housed in a well-maintained block. Book ahead, especially during school holidays, as it’s often used by student groups. Dorms RM35
Gua Musang
GUA MUSANG (“Civet Cave”), 30km from Merapoh, is a former logging town strung thinly along a stretch of Route 8. A 100m-wide knot of scruffy buildings and shops surrounds the old train station, while a new satellite town coalesces 3km south. This being Kelantan, the Malay accent here displays a distinctive twang, and alcohol is available only at a few shops run by Chinese residents.
Gua Musang is fairly close to the Taman Negara entrances at Merapoh and Kuala Koh. Time spent between connections can be filled with a day-trip to Kampung Pulai or exploring the caves that riddle a mass of limestone that looms over the train tracks. Note that the path up to the caves is steep, crumbling and very overgrown, and particularly difficult after rain – it’s best attempted with a local guide (RM20).
Arrival and information: Gua Musang
By train The new train station sits astride the Jungle Railway’s tracks 400m south of its predecessor, just off Route 8, between the old and new parts of town. A taxi to the old town or bus station costs RM10.
Destinations Dabong (2 daily at 5.22am & 3.52pm; 2hr 20min); Gemas (for Kuala Lumpur; 1 daily at 10.53pm; 7hr 20min); Kuala Lipis (2 daily at 10.05 am & 8.36pm; 2hr 30min); Merapoh (2 daily at 10.05am & 8.36pm; 30min); Johor Bahru (1 daily at 10.53pm; 12hr); Wakaf Bharu (for Kota Bharu; 2 daily at 5.22am & 3.52pm; 5hr 20min).
By bus Gua Musang’s main bus station is 2.5km south of the train station in the new town. There are no direct buses to Cameron Highlands; take the train to to Kuala Lipis and then a bus to Sungai Koyan, from where three daily departures reach Tanah Rata.
Destinations Kota Bharu (3 daily; 3hr); Kuala Lumpur (5 daily; 5hr).
Banks There are several banks with ATMs on Route 8 near the train station.
Supplies Stores along Jalan Besar sell everything from food to batteries and umbrellas.
Accommodation
Gua Idaman 400m west of the station 09 912 0081; map. This place is close to the train station, but has largely windowless and slightly musty rooms, each with TV and a tiny bathroom. Little English spoken. RM60
Mines Inn Hotel Jalan Persiaran Raya 09 912 1339, minesinnhotel@gmail.com; map. This simple hotel packs in twenty-odd clean, simple en-suite rooms that easily beat the competition along Route 8. RM80
My Home Hotel Jalan Persiaran Raya 09 912 3191, myhomehotel.com.my; map. Part of a nationwide chain, this hotel has dismissive staff and clean but poky a/c rooms. RM60
Welcome Inn GM PT 2870 Jalan Cengai, about 2km walk northwest of the new train station along the main road 09 912 2912, bit.ly/WelcomeInnGM; map. Not central but next to a supermarket in a new area of town, this is Gua Musang’s best-value hotel, with squeaky clean and airy en-suite a/c rooms (some windowless). Contact them in advance for a free pick-up from either the bus or train station. RM75
Eating
Kak Zah Restoran Jalan Besar 013 268 1942, facebook.com/KakZahRestoran; map. One of Gua Musang’s most appreciated Malay restaurants serves an array of local curries and dishes, of which nasi kerabu, the quintessential Kelantanese blue-coloured rice served with crackers, dried fish and fried chicken, is highly recommended. Daily 7am–2pm.
Kedai Makan Mana Lagi Jalan Besar; map. Open-air Malay food court that’s festooned with coloured lights in the evening. Food has a Thai twist, as is often the case in Kelantan; even the humble fried kangkung with squid has a lemongrass kick to it. A good range of tom yam and kerabu-style dishes for around RM10, plus seafood, including house speciality ikan tiga rasa – though none of the staff can explain what the three flavours of the name derive from. Daily 5pm–late.
Under the Tree Jalan Tepi Sungai Chindai, 200m west of the old train station 013 746 1338; map. With outdoor tables that spill under an umbrella of low-hanging tree branches, this kopitiam serves up Chinese noodles (RM5), kopi and breakfast titbits. And in tune with the town’s multi-ethnic mix, there’s a food court on the other side of the tree to satisfy any Malay food craving. Daily 7am–2pm & 6pm–10pm.
Kampung Pulai
KAMPUNG PULAI, 8km south of Gua Musang, may be southern Kelantan’s best-kept secret. This traditional Hakka village lies in a beautiful riverside setting, where lush greenery is punctuated by karst formations rising dramatically from the earth. The Hakka first came here around six hundred years ago in search of gold. The continued prevalence of Hakka traditions today can be attributed to the village’s isolation: the first tarred road to Gua Musang only arrived in 1988.
Life in Kampung Pulai revolves around the Water and Moon Temple, dedicated to goddess of mercy Kuan Yin, and said to be more than 400 years old. The centrepiece is an extremely rare Ming Dynasty painting of Kuan Yin as a maiden, brought here from China by the early settlers. On the nineteenth day of the second month of the Chinese lunar calendar, Kampung Pulai celebrates the goddess’s birthday: the village fills up with devotees from all over Southeast Asia, rituals and parades are held in the main square, and free vegetarian food is served in the community hall next to the temple.
Princess Hill
Daily 9am–7pm • Ask for the guardian at the Water and Moon Temple for the key
From the courtyard outside the shrine, a suspension bridge crosses the Galas River joining a path to the foot of Princess Hill, a limestone karst housing a set of ancient meditation caves and a shrine with a statue of Kuan Yin carved out of a giant stalagmite. From the two viewing platforms at the top, the sunset views over the Galas River, snaking quietly through a carpet of untamed green jungle, are superb.
Arrival and information: KAMPUNG PULAI
By taxi There is no public transport between Gua Musang and Kampung Pulai. Taxis from Gua Musang’s bus station charge RM20–30 each way.
By car From Gua Musang’s bus station, turn right towards the hospital and then left at the main junction with Road D29. From here, it’s a short drive along the D241.
Accommodation and Eating
There’s a series of inexpensive Malay restaurants along Road D241, all serving the usual Kelantanese staples – a mix of zesty Malay food with southern Thai influences, such as tom yum and nasi kerabu.
Chinese noodle corner store Next to the temple square, facing the river. This Chinese kopitiam dishes up a wide selection of cheap noodles (RM4) and breakfast titbits. Note that it doesn’t have an official name. The karaoke bar next door is the place to go for a beer. Daily 7am–4pm, closed every other Tues
Pulai Holiday Village 1km before the turn off to the Water and Moon Temple 016 921 6652, pulai.org. Pulai’s only guesthouse has two blocks of smart en-suite rooms next to a secluded rubber estate. The older block, all decked out in wood, has slightly simpler but more picturesque rooms next to a private limestone cave, which you can explore at your leisure. Ample parking space available. RM55
Kuala Koh
With its jungle trails, boat trips and canopy walkway, Kuala Koh, Taman Negara’s northern entrance, 85km east of Gua Musang, sounds like the ideal alternative to touristy Kuala Tahan. On the ground, however, the experience is dramatically different: a lack of visitors, coupled with poor maintenance of both the canopy walkway and the trails after the 2014 floods, have left the place in a mess. At the time of writing, the canopy walkway was closed, pending repairs, and accommodation was only available in a campsite. Given that expensive private transport is the only way to get here, and guides are compulsory to venture anywhere beyond the bridge at the park’s headquarters, it’s strongly recommended that you contact the office (call rather than rely on the infrequently updated website) to enquire about the state of trails and facilities before you set off on a potentially disappointing journey.
Canopy walkway
Closed at time of research but usually open Mon–Thurs, Sat & Sun 9.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–4.30pm, Fri 9.30am–noon & 3.30–4.30pm; closed during rain or if lightning is likely • RM5
Walk through park headquarters to reach the suspension bridge that leads over the Lebir River into the forest; turn left on the far side and it’s 100m to the canopy walkway. The walkway is 20m up, over partially cleared forest with bamboo and barbed rattan palms below; from the top you can expect to see birds, insects and occasional troupes of monkeys.
Forest trails
Beyond the canopy walkway, several kilometres of trails weave through the forest and along the river. All hikes require arranging a guide in advance, either through the park headquarters or a tour operator. During the day, listen for wildlife – the zithering of cicadas, whooshing of hornbill wings, and staccato rustle of lizards amid the leaf litter. Pick of the routes are the Rentis Ara (“Fig Trail”), a 3km circuit, and the 1.5km-long Rentis Bumbun, ending at a pole-frame hide overlooking a salt lick – somewhere to sit still for an hour and see what turns up.
On the river
A pleasant river trip heads up the Lebir for half an hour to Kuala Pertang, passing a few sandy banks where you can camp, swim or fish; the river is home to ikan kelah and other freshwater denizens. The ride takes you under the overhanging boughs of leaning neram trees, some hung with the leafy tresses of tiger orchids, among the world’s largest orchid species. You can also go tubing along the river, being carried downstream on an inflated rubber ring, or arrange a trip to a semi-permanent Batek camp, two hours upstream.
Arrival and information: Kuala Koh
By car Driving, turn off Route 8 at Simpang Aring (40km east of Gua Musang) and follow signs along a sealed but windy road through the Felda Aring oil palm plantation, looking out for plantation vehicles, before turning off onto an access road for the last 15km. The road passes an Orang Asli village just before entering the park, with the headquarters a short drive further on above the confluence of the Lebir and Koh rivers.
By taxi Taxis from Gua Musang charge a negotiable RM200 each way
Park office Staff at the park office (017 900 9522, taman-negara-koh.blogspot.my) can give you a photocopied schematic map of Kuala Koh, and accept payment of the nominal entry (RM1) and photography (RM5) fees. Book guides and all river activities here too: tubing on the river costs RM25 each (minimum four people), while an hour-long guided night walk, when you might see slow loris and civets, is RM40.
Accommodation
Camping The only way to stay within the park is to camp. Keep in mind that you’ll have to bring everything you’ll need, including food, cutlery, plates and a stove, with you. Camping per pitch RM5.
Gunung Stong State Park
Around 70km north of Gua Musang, Gunung Stong State Park (otherwise known as Jelawang Jungle) is based around 1420m-high Mount Stong, a prominent, forested granite mountain 7km outside the small rail township of DABONG. Current train schedules make it a great day stop, with a short but tough hike up through lush forest to a series of waterfalls and plunge pools, where you can have a swim and catch a late afternoon train out. However, it’s also worth staying overnight on the mountainside for the magical sunrise views. Before heading to the park, you could also spend a few hours exploring the Gua Ikan complex, a system of five caves connected by an underground stream, roughly 3km out of Dabong. It’s possible to visit independently, but hire a guide when the water level is high, when the main path becomes hard to to follow.
Air Terjun Jelawang
Daily 8am–10pm
The access road from Dabong ends at the foot of the mountain, where you buy your entry ticket. From the gate, follow a path that crosses a rickety suspension bridge into the forest, where the paving quickly gives way to a muddy path, tangled with tree roots but perfectly clear. This is extremely steep, with ropes and chains to help you up the worst bits – fortunately the gritty mud gives a decent grip. After about 1km, you’ll reach a ramshackle pavilion where a side trail leads sharply down 300m to a pretty spot near the foot of the largest cascade.
As you continue along the main trail, Baha’s Camp sits a sweaty 1.5km further up the hillside on the riverbank between the first and second tiers of Air Terjun Jelawang, also known as Lata Jelawang, Peninsular Malaysia’s highest waterfall, which cascades a total of 540m down a bald granite rock face in seven steps. There’s a pool that’s great for swimming and a wonderful viewpoint – if you stay overnight, this is where you’ll want to be at dawn to watch the sunrise over a sea of cotton wool clouds blanketing the plains. Do take care, though; the rocks are slick and a Singaporean student slipped to his death here in 2013.
Mountain trails
Baha’s Camp is the trailhead for the Elephant Trek, which follows the main path up the mountain for two hours to the top of Mount Stong, before winding along the ridge and crossing over onto neighbouring Mount Ayam (1500m). Although it’s possible to return to Baha’s the same day, it’s recommended to camp for the night on top of Mount Ayam – you’ll need warm clothing and a good sleeping bag. Elephants are sometimes seen here, and there’s a chance of encountering tapir and deer in the early morning or early evening.
Arrival and information: GUNUNG Stong State Park
By train It’s feasible to come on a day-trip, visit the caves and the falls and have a swim, if you arrive at Dabong on an early train from either direction, and leave the same evening (timetables on www.ktmb.com.my). Ask at Dabong station for a lift (RM15 from the train station to the caves; RM20 from the train station to the park’s entrance).
Destinations Gemas (for Kuala Lumpur; 1 daily; 9hr); Gua Musang (3 daily; 2hr 10min); Jerantut (1 daily; 4hr 50min); Johor Bahru (1 daily; 14hr); Kuala Lipis (1 daily; 4hr 20min); Merapoh (1 daily; 2hr 20min); Wakaf Bharu (for Kota Bharu; 4 daily; 3hr 40min).
By car Dabong is just off Route 66, 70km north of Gua Musang; it’s 40km west of the Sam River and Route 8. From Penang/Kedah and points north, follow the E4 to Jeli, then take the Route 66 turning and head south for 53km to the Dabong turning. Cross the river and drive north for 7km, before taking the signed road to the mountain that ends at the park gates.
Admission fee RM15.
Accommodation and Eating
Simple meals are available from the restaurant at the park gates (daily 8am–7pm). Meals at Baha’s Camp are by arrangement only. There are several kedai kopis around Dabong train station, but the closest place to buy supplies is Gua Musang.
Baha’s Camp Inside the forest, 1hr 30min from the park gates, by the waterfall 012 968 1554. A superb – if extremely basic – place to stay, with tents scattered around a jungle clearing. There’s no electricity or running water, unless you count the nearby waterfall, and you might find yourself sharing the tent with some of the smaller forest creatures. If you can’t contact the camp in advance (they’re sometimes out of range), bring your own tent just in case their own are full, as well as your own food – they should be able to cook it for you. Four-person tent RM20
Park Headquarters 019 335 5167. The cluster of chalets at the foot of the mountain was being restored at the time of writing, and will be in operation by early 2018. It’s a great place to stay if you don’t want to rough it up, or if you arrive at the park late. Budget travellers can opt to bunk at a basic campsite, and there’s a restaurant. Camping per two-man tent RM10, chalets RM50
Rose House Down from the road bridge across the railway, Dabong 013 960 6789, facebook.com/Rose.House.Dabong. With six rooms in two rose-pink blocks, this guesthouse is a great place to recuperate after a trip into the mountains. Clean rooms have fans, a/c and bathrooms, and the friendly owner may throw in nasi kerabu for breakfast. RM80