Kota Bharu

The capital of Kelantan, KOTA BHARU, sits at the very northeastern corner of the Peninsula, on the east bank of the broad, muddy Kelantan River. Many visitors arrive across the nearby Thai border, and for most the city is simply a half-decent place to rest and get their Malaysian bearings. To breeze through Kota Bharu and the rest of Kelantan, however, would be to gloss over one of the country’s most culturally fascinating states.

Kelantan has historically been a crucible for Malay culture, fostering art forms that drew on influences from around Southeast Asia and as far away as India. Kota Bharu is the ideal place to witness the region’s distinctive heritage, on show at its Cultural Centre and in the various cottage industries that thrive in its hinterland – among them kite-making, batik printing and woodcarving. The city also boasts its share of historical buildings, now largely museums, plus some excellent markets and numerous Buddhist temples in the surrounding countryside.

The city centre is compact, with most of the markets, many of the banks and the biggest stores between Jalan Hospital and Jalan Pintu Pong, a few blocks north.

The east coast in the off-season

Many visitors give the east coast a wide berth during the northeast monsoon, which sets in during late October and continues until February. It’s true that heavy rains and sea swells put paid to most boat services to the islands at this time, and most beach accommodation, whether on the mainland or offshore, is shut anyway. The rains will, however, usually be interspersed with good sunny spells, just as the so-called dry season can bring its share of torrential downpours. With luck, and a flexible schedule, you will find boats heading sporadically to and from the islands during the monsoon; some island accommodation opens year-round, although you should contact places in advance to be sure. While diving and snorkelling aren’t great at this time of year, due to reduced visibility, the east coast comes into its own for surfing and windsurfing, with Cherating the prime destination. Away from the beaches, there’s always reasonable sightseeing in Kota Bharu and Kuala Terengganu – just be prepared to take lengthy refuge in cafés or malls when yet another thunderstorm breaks.

Around Padang Merdeka

West of the main markets, close to the river, the quiet oasis of Padang Merdeka marks Kota Bharu’s historical centre. It was here that the British displayed the body of the defeated Tok Janggut (Father Beard), a peasant spiritual leader who spearheaded a revolt against colonial land taxes and tenancy regulations in 1915. Today the main attractions are a handful of historic buildings, several of which have been converted into museums.

One of the most obvious landmarks is the Sultan Ismail Petra Arch, beyond which is the Istana Balai Besar – a mid-nineteenth-century palace, closed to the public but still used for ceremonial functions – and the squat former State Treasury.

Istana Jahar

North of Sultan Ismail Petra Arch, Jalan Sultan • Mon–Wed, Sat & Sun 8.30am–4.45pm, Thurs 8.30am–3.30pm • RM4 • 09 748 2266

The well-preserved Istana Jahar was built in 1887 with a timber portico and pillars painted a regal shade of yellow. In 1911 Sultan Muhammad IV added an Italian marble floor and two wrought-iron spiral staircases. The palace now houses an exhibition on royal ceremonies, which can be seen in an hour (although you may want to linger on the breezy first-floor veranda). Rites illustrated include istiadat pijak tanah, a ceremony that marked the point when young royals – aged between five and seven years – were allowed to set foot on soil for the first time.

The weapons gallery, in a separate building just behind the palace, features an exhibit devoted to the kris, a dagger that has important symbolic value to Malays.

Istana Batu

North of Istana Jahar, Jalan Istana • Mon–Wed, Sat & Sun 8.30am–4.45pm, Thurs 8.30am–3.30pm • RM4 • 09 748 2266

An incongruous 1930s villa, Istana Batu was built as a wedding present for Muhammad IV’s grandson. One of the first concrete constructions in the state (its name means “stone palace”), today it functions as the Kelantan Royal Museum.

Several rooms remain as they were when the royal family moved out, and a brief wander through is worthwhile if only to survey the tat that royals the world over seem to accumulate. Here it includes – among other treasures – tiger-skin rugs, a glass revolver and piles of imported crockery.

Kampung Kraftangan

Opposite Istana Batu, Jalan Hilir Kota • Mon–Thurs, Sat & Sun 8.30am–4.45pm • Free

In the Kampung Kraftangan (Handicraft Village), gift shops sell everything from tacky souvenirs to silverware, rattan baskets and other local products. You can try your hand at batik at Zecsman Design (classes from RM50; 012 929 2822), and the complex is home to two branches of the excellent Cikgu restaurant.

The Markets of Kota Bharu

Kota Bharu has a fine array of markets, reflecting its role as state capital and as a centre for Malay culture and handicrafts. There is also an excellent nightly food market.

Bazaar Buluh Kubu West of the central market. Though lacking in atmosphere, this market does have a good range of batik, songket and other crafts on sale. Daily 9am–6pm.

Central market East of the historical centre. Kota Bharu’s humming central market, Pasar Besar Siti Khadijah, is one of the city’s focal points, and aptly named after the Prophet Mohamed’s entrepreneurial first wife as most of its traders are women. The main building, an octagonal hall, has a perspex roof casting a soft light over the patchwork of the main trading floor – a mass of fruit, vegetables and textiles. The whole scene is worth contemplating at length from the upper levels, especially when it’s busy in the mornings. Trading continues east of here in an extension to the original market; some brilliant first-floor food stalls make it a great place to sample Kelantanese flavours. Daily 8am–6pm.

Friday street market Jalan Ismail, south of Jalan Hulu Pasar. A visit to the informal, morning-only Friday market is recommended as a way to witness the rustic heart of Kelantan laid bare, as traders and shoppers pour in from the surrounding kampungs on their weekend day out in the city. Fri 8am–noon.

Handicraft Museum

Mon–Thurs, Sat & Sun 8.30am–4.45pm • RM4 • 09 744 3949

The small Handicraft Museum upstairs in Kampung Kraftangan is worth a few minutes of your time; it displays traditional craft items including silverware, woven pandan, bamboo and rattan objects, woodcarving and songket (textiles woven with gold thread).

Masjid Negeri

Jalan Sultan • Permission required from International Islamic Information Centre on Jalan Sultanah Zainab (Mon–Thurs, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm; 09 747 7824) • Free

The white Masjid Negeri, on the northern side of the padang, was completed in the late 1920s. Once you have permission and are inside the mosque – each gender sticking to their respective prayer halls – male visitors should keep an eye out for the enormous drum (bedok) that once summoned the faithful to prayer. The small and rather dull Islamic Museum is housed in a mint-green villa immediately west of the mosque.

War Memorial Museum

Jalan Sultan • Mon–Wed, Sat & Sun 8.30am–4.45pm, Thurs 8.30am–3.30pm • RM4 • 09 748 2266

In a solid yellow building that once housed the Mercantile Bank of India, the War Memorial Museum commemorates the fact that Japanese troops first set foot in Malaya on Kelantan’s beaches. They captured the entire state in December 1941, and Singapore fell just two months later. During the occupation, the bank was the local base for the Japanese secret police.

While the war artefacts are desultory (fragments of ordnance, ration pouches and the like), the accompanying text gives insight into the swiftness of the Japanese advance – aided by their use of bicycles – and the British collapse. The exhibition downstairs also covers the years leading up to independence, while upstairs there’s an exhibit on Kelantan’s peacetime history, the walls covered with fading photographs of colonial administrators.

State Museum

Jalan Hospital • Mon–Wed, Sat & Sun 9am–4.45pm, Thurs 8.30am–3.30pm • RM4

Much of the ground floor of Kelantan’s State Museum is used for temporary exhibits, although it also includes a “time tunnel”, where old photographs of locations in the city are paired with contemporary images taken of the same spots. It’s fascinating to see what has – and hasn’t – changed. The upper floor focuses on traditional local pastimes, with displays of kites, spinning tops, wayang kulit puppets and various musical instruments.

Cultural Centre

Jalan Mahmood • Feb–Oct Mon 3.30pm, Wed 3.30pm & 9pm, Sat 3.30pm & 9pm; closed during Ramadan • Free

A high point of any visit to Kota Bharu, the excellent Cultural Centre (Gelanggang Seni) holds demonstrations of Kelantan’s cultural and recreational activities. Each day’s session is different; check with the state tourist office if you have a particular interest. Performances might include a combination of gasing (spinning tops), pencak silat (martial arts), rebana ubi (giant drums), kertok (smaller drums formed from coconuts) and congkak (a game involving the strategic movement of seeds around the holes on a wooden board). Best of all, Wednesday evenings see wayang kulit (traditional shadow puppetry) performances from 9–11pm.

The performing arts in Kelantan

Kelantan has a rich artistic tradition, boasting two costumed dance/drama forms, mak yong and the Thai-influenced menora. Even more striking is wayang kulit, shadow puppetry, traditionally staged on a dais screened from the audience by a large sheet and illuminated from behind. The cast consists of a set of stencils made of hide and cut into silhouettes of the various characters; these are manipulated against the screen by a sole puppeteer, who also improvises all the dialogue. Reflecting India’s historic influence in the region, the tales are taken from the Hindu epic, the Ramayana. In the past, wayang kulit functioned as a sort of kampung soap opera, serializing Ramayana instalments nightly during the months after the rice harvest. Performances are gripping affairs, with a hypnotic soundtrack provided by an ensemble of drums, gongs and the oboe-like serunai, whose players are seated behind the puppeteer.

Sadly, all three of the above traditional arts have been banned in Kelantan since the 1990s by the PAS-led state government. PAS has cited issues of public morality, which could mean they object to the fact that both mak yong and menora can involve an element of cross-dressing. PAS also objects to the non-Islamic nature of these performances, since they involve folk tales or Hindu mythology. Finally, the party also has a problem with the spiritualism permeating these arts. A wayang kulit performance begins with a buka panggung ceremony, in which the puppeteer readies the stage by reciting mantras and making offerings of food to the spirits, while mak yong can be staged for an individual as part of a folk-healing tradition called main puteri, in which the performers enter a trance to remove a spirit believed to be affecting that person.

Whatever the reasons for the ban, it has effectively deprived a generation of Kelantanese of their own traditions. A mere handful of wayang kulit troupes survive, performing outside Kelantan or, thanks to one concession from PAS, for the benefit of the largely tourist audience at Kota Bharu’s Cultural Centre. On a brighter note, all three forms mentioned here are being passed on to a new generation outside their home state, at the National Academy of Arts, Culture and Heritage in KL (aswara.edu.my), which occasionally stages performances.

Craft workshops

Most of Kota Bharu’s craft workshops lie on the road to PCB , the uninspiring beach 11km north of the city. As they are quite spread out, the best way to see a variety of workshops (including kite-making, batik and more) is on a tour, arranged either via your accommodation or through the state tourist office. Half-day tours cost RM80–125 per person, and often require a minimum of two people. The workshops listed here are not on the way to PCB, and are easier to visit independently.

K.B. Permai

5406 Jalan Sultanah Zainab, near Jalan Hamzah intersection • Mon–Thurs, Sat & Sun 9am–6pm • 09 748 5661

Kelantanese silverware is well known throughout the Peninsula. At the K.B. Permai workshop, you can watch artisans shaping silver wire into fine filigree, and producing items such as embossed gongs and jewellery, and you can buy pieces here, or at their retail outlet in Kampung Kraftangan, at much keener prices than in Kuala Lumpur, starting at around RM30 for small jewellery pieces.

Pak Yusoff workshop

Kampung Laut • Boat (RM2) from the jetty close to the Ridel Hotel • 012 340 6498

A wayang kulit puppeteer who also makes the tools of his trade, Pak Yusoff can be visited in Kampung Laut on the west bank of the Kelantan River. His workshop, to the right of the pier as you get off the boat, holds examples of his distinctive translucent puppets. Though it has become a well-worn stop on the tourist trail as it’s the most easily accessible workshop from town, it’s still a great excuse to take the atmospheric ferry ride across the river.

Buddhist temples

Tours (arranged via state tourist office or your guesthouse) RM65–80/person; 4–5hrs, including visit to nearby craft workshops

The area north of Kota Bharu is dotted with Buddhist temples, many decorated with a striking combination of Thai and Chinese motifs. The temples can be visited using buses bound for the Thai border at Pengkalan Kubor. It’s a slow process, getting from one to the next on public transport (though it can also be done using local taxis); if you’re pushed for time it’s best to take a tour from the state tourist office or your guesthouse. The temples are especially worth visiting during Vesak Day, the festival (usually in May) celebrating the Buddha’s birthday.

Wat Pracacinaram

Kampung Kulim, just outside Wakaf Bharu, on the road to Cabang Empat • Bus #19 or #27

The highly conspicuous main building of Wat Pracacinaram has an elaborate triple-layered roof decorated in gold, sapphire and red. The temple offers a herbal steam bath – with separate facilities for men and women – for RM5.

Wat Phothivihan

Kampung Jambu • Bus #19 or #27; get off at Cabang Empat then walk 3.5km

The 40m-long reclining Buddha at Wat Phothivihan is the largest in Malaysia. The rather bland plaster statue was made by the monks themselves and contains ashes of the deceased who have been laid to rest here. Refreshments are available from kedai kopis inside the temple grounds.

Wat Machimmaram

Kampung Jubakar, 7km north of Cabang Empat • Bus #27

Topped by a 30m-high bronze-tiled seated Buddha, Wat Machimmaram contains bas-reliefs that depict the graphic punishments of hell – the corrupt are, for example, doomed to have molten tin poured into their mouths, while meat eaters are shown reincarnated as pigs on the carving block. Thai massages (RM40; 011 1931 5752) are available in a separate block.

Wat Mai Suwankiri

Around 4.5km southeast of Tumpat • Bus #43 stops outside the temple and #19 stops 500m away

The most striking construction at Wat Mai Suwankiri is a shrine built in the shape of a dragon boat, surrounded by a narrow moat to give the impression that it is afloat. The main temple hall is crowned by an elongated standing Buddha, its gorgeous interior decorated with hundreds of golden plaques.

Suri Island

Taxi to Kuala Besar (20–30min; RM25) then boat (15–20min; RM2); alternatively #43 bus to Jeti Kok Majid (1hr) then boat (40min; RM10/person, or RM50/boat)

One of many small riverine islands north of Kota Bharu, Suri Island is home to around five hundred people. Getting there is half the fun, requiring a trip down the tea-coloured Kelantan River in a motorized sampan, and the island itself has some pleasant paths for walking and a well-developed homestay programme.

There are two ways to reach Suri from Kota Bharu. The most common route goes via Kuala Besar (not to be confused with Kuala Besut in Terengganu). While the second route, via Jeti Kok Majid, an hour’s bus ride from the city centre, is considerably more scenic, it’s also more time-consuming. If you’re staying on the island, contact the homestay organizer in advance to arrange transport.

Arriving at Suri, you’ll spot a boatyard next to the jetty where they mend traditional wooden craft. There’s also a simple café or two for refreshments. From here you can head inland along a path lined with coconut trees.

Arrival and Departure: Kota Bharu

By PLANE

Sultan Ismail Petra airport The airport lies 9km northeast of the centre. The #9 bus runs between town and airport until 7pm. Official airport taxis (pre-paid at the counter before you exit customs) cost RM30 to get into town and RM93 to the Perhentians jetty at Kuala Besut. MAS (09 771 4700), Malindo (09 771 5082) and AirAsia (09 774 1421) offer a dozen flights between them between Kota Bharu and KL, while Firefly (09 774 1377) also has a couple of daily flights to Penang.

By train

Train station The nearest station is 7km away in Wakaf Bharu (09 719 6986), a 20min ride on bus #19 (daytime only) from the local bus station – watch for the late-afternoon rush hour – or a RM20 taxi journey. Check the latest schedules at www.ktmb.com.my. Change at Johor Bahru for Singapore, and at Gemas for Kuala Lumpur.

Destinations Dabong (4 daily; 2hr 45min–3hr 20min); Gemas (6am daily; 12hr); Gua Musang (3 daily; 4hr 35min–6hr 25min); Jerantut (6.16pm daily; 8hr); Johor Bahru (6pm daily; 14hr 40min); Kuala Lipis (6pm daily; 7hr 15min); Merapoh (6pm daily; 4hr).

By bus

Express bus station (aka Tesco Bus Station) Close to the eponymous supermarket, near the Kelantan River bridge on the southern edge of town; a RM10–15 taxi ride from the centre. Express bus tickets, including Perdana Express, can be purchased from a row of cabins just south of the local bus station on Jalan Doktor. Note that using Transnasional long-distance buses, which arrive and depart from the local bus station, is much more convenient, though a smidgen more expensive. Most long distance services leave between 8–10am and 8–10pm.

Destinations Alor Setar (10am & 10pm daily; 7–8hr); Butterworth (4 daily; 7hr); Gua Musang (3 daily; 3hr); Ipoh (4 daily; 5hr); Johor Bahru (4 daily; 12hr); Kuala Kangsar (3 daily; 6hr 30min); Kuala Lumpur (12 daily; 8hr); Kuala Terengganu (12 daily; 3hr); Kuantan (10 daily; 7hr); Melaka (3 daily; 10hr 30min); Mersing (3 daily; 9hr 30min); Penang (3 daily; 7hr 15min); Seremban (3 daily; 10hr).

Local bus station Off Jalan Doktor in the town centre. Used by Cityliner buses running to places within or just outside Kelantan – notably Wakaf Bharu (#19 or #27, for trains), the Thai border crossings at Rantau Panjang (#29) and Pengkalan Kubor (#27 and #43), and Kuala Besut (#639, for the Perhentians; 7am, 9pm, 11am, 1pm & 5pm daily; 2hr). It is also used by Transnasional long-distance buses.

Destinations Alor Setar (9.30am & 9.30pm daily; 7–8hr); Butterworth (9.45am & 9.30pm daily; 7hr); Gua Musang (3 daily; 3hr); Ipoh (9.30am & 9.30pm daily; 5hr); Johor Bahru (3 daily; 12hr); Kuala Kangsar (9.30am & 9.30pm daily; 6hr 30min); Kuala Lumpur (10 daily; 8hr); Kuala Terengganu (5 daily; 3hr); Kuantan (7 daily; 7hr); Melaka (8.30pm daily; 10hr 30min); Mersing (1 daily; 9hr 30min); Penang (9.45am & 10pm daily; 8hr); Seremban (9.45am & 9.15pm daily; 10hr); Singapore (8pm daily; 13hr).

By TAXI OR MINIVAN

Long-distance taxis Taxis depart from a yard on Jalan Doktor, south of the local bus station. A taxi to Kuala Besut will set you back RM60. Call 09 748 1386 to book. Note that you can no longer reach the Cameron Highlands and Taman Negera from Kota Bharu; minibuses to these destinations are now only available from Gua Musang or Kuala Besut.

To Thailand

There are two road crossings into Thailand – and none by rail – on the east coast. The closest large Thai town to either is Narathiwat, served by buses to other parts of southern Thailand and flights to Bangkok. Although the security situation in southern Thailand has improved slightly in recent years, it’s worth checking online for the current situation – at the time of writing, Western governments were still advising against travelling this way from Thailand. Visas for Thailand can be obtained from the consulate in Kota Bharu if required. Note that Thailand is one hour behind Malaysia.

Rantau Panjang The recommended crossing is at Rantau Panjang (daily 8am–9pm), 45km southwest of Kota Bharu; get there by local bus #29 (every 30min, 6.45am–6.30pm; 1hr–1hr 30min) or taxi (RM40; 45min). From Sungai Kolok, a short walk across the border on the Thai side, trains run to Bangkok, via Hat Yai and Surat Thani (11.30am & 2.20pm; 20–22hr; railway.co.th), and frequent buses head to Hat Yai (hourly; 6am–4pm; 4hr).

Pengkalan Kubor The other crossing – slower to get through and with worse transport links – is at Pengkalan Kubor (daily around 8am–7pm), 25km northwest of Kota Bharu; take local bus #19, #27 or #43 (30min), or a taxi (RM30) then a car ferry (RM5). The small town of Tak Bai stands on the Thai side.

Getting around

By bus Red Cityliner buses serve most parts of the city and its environs in daylight hours. Useful routes include #10, which runs to PCB from Kampung Kraftangan.

By taxi Local taxis wait in the same yard as long-distance taxis. Drivers don’t use meters, so agree the price before you leave. Journeys within the centre typically cost RM10. Most accommodations can call for private taxis, which are half the price of those hailed in the street. Taxis can also be arranged by the hour for around RM30–35/hr.

By trishaw A few tourist-oriented trishaws can be found around the central market for short hops within the centre; agree fares, usually RM5–10, in advance.

Car rental Hawk (013 924 2455, hawkrentacar.com.my) and J&W (09 773 7312, jwcarental.com) have offices at the airport.

Information and tours

Tourist information The state tourist office (Mon–Wed & Sun 8am–5pm, Thurs 8am–3.30pm; 09 748 5534, tic.kelantan.gov.my) on Jalan Sultan Ibrahim can tell you about festivals and give you a timetable of events at the Cultural Centre. The Tourism Malaysia office (Mon–Wed & Sun 8am–5pm, Thurs 8am–3.30pm; 09 747 7554) is at Kampung Kraftangan, Seksyen 20, northwest of the central market.

Tours Doremi Travel & Tours (09 774 7458), or any of the town’s backpacker hostels (especially Zeck’s) can arrange city and craft tours, as well as the popular firefly tour along the Pengkalan River (8.30pm; 1hr; RM20/person). Roselan Hanafiah, based at the state tourist office, can also put together craft workshop tours (4–5hr; RM125/person).

Accommodation

Kota Bharu has an excellent range of accommodation. Budget travellers will appreciate the good-value if occasionally scruffy guesthouses, many of which can arrange tickets for onward travel and offer packages to Taman Negara via Kuala Koh and Stong State Park.

Hotels

Crown Garden 302 & 303 Jalan Kebun Sultan 09 743 2228, crowngardenhotel.com; map. At the upper end of the city’s accommodation options, this 88-room hotel has marble floors and striking modern decor plus a seventh-floor bar. The cheapest rooms are cramped but still nicely appointed, and price includes a breakfast buffet. RM150

Crystal Lodge 124 Jalan Che Su 609 747 0888, crystallodge.my; map. Sleek mid-range hotel, with a café-restaurant, parking and satellite TV. The compact single (RM129) and superior single (RM159) rooms are good value, though the standard doubles and windowless twins are a bit disappointing. Breakfast included. RM169

Habib Lot 1159–1162, Jalan Maju 09 747 4788, habibhotel.com.my; map. Friendly, centrally located and a solid mid-range choice, featuring squeaky clean rooms with flat-screen TVs. Deluxe rooms (RM190) are more spacious but otherwise identical to their cheaper counterparts. Price includes (a somewhat limited) breakfast. RM160

Perdana Jalan Mahmood 09 745 8888, hotelperdanakotabharu.com; map. This Malaysian-owned five-star hotel is divided into two wings, “classic” and “executive”, with slightly higher prices in the latter; both have the same comfortable rooms and psychedelic carpets. The multiple food outlets are alcohol-free. Breakfast included. RM288

Renaissance Jalan Sultan Yahya Petra 09 746 2233, marriott.com; map. Some of the 298 rooms in Kota Bharu’s first five-star hotel enjoy great views over the city, though it now needs a bit of renovation. Facilities include two restaurants, a gorgeous semi-outdoor pool, spa and a 24-hour gym. You’ll save around a third if you book from the website. RM306

Royal Guest House Lot 440–443 Jalan Hilir Kota 09 743 0008, royalguesthse.com; map. Despite its far-from-regal exterior, this conveniently central 45-room hotel is comparatively stylish inside, though the rooms are very brown and some are quite dark. It also offers a multi-cuisine restaurant as well as room service, though the proximity to the mosque (which occasionally broadcasts day-long sermons) may not suit light sleepers. Breakfast included. RM140

Guesthouses

Ideal Travellers’ House 3954 f & g Jalan Kebun Sultan 09 744 2246; map. The oldest guesthouse in town, somewhat worn but great value; most rooms have a fan and shared bathroom, but the three a/c rooms have private bathrooms, hot water and balconies. Friendly owner Kang offers temple tours (3hr; RM90) and sells both beer and Perhentian taxi/boat tickets. RM30

KB Backpackers Lodge First floor, 1872d Jalan Padang Garong 019 944 5222, backpackerslodge2@yahoo.co.uk; map. Friendly travellers’ haunt with private rooms, a bare-bones dorm and small library. Knowledgeable staff can arrange transfers, excursions, and city tours (RM80) as well as rent bikes (RM25/day). Not to be confused with the run-down KB Backpacker Inn across the road. Dorms RM15, doubles RM35

My Place Guesthouse 4340 Jalan Kebun Sultan 013 901 1463, myplacekb@yahoo.com; map. Good backpacker option with appealing common areas, free tea and toast, and a movie room. The seven partitioned bedrooms are small but decent, all with shared bathrooms; a new site with larger rooms down the road should open in 2018. Owner Deen arranges city tours (RM80) and trips to Taman Negara (two nights, RM450). RM35

Pasir Belanda Jalan PCB, Banggol district, 5km north of the city 09 747 7046, pasirbelanda.com; map. This rural Dutch-run establishment consists of seven traditionally styled chalets, set in an immaculate garden with a swimming pool overlooking a creek. Activities include batik (RM35) and Malay cookery lessons (RM60), and they offer kayak and bike rental. Catch #10 bus to Banggol mosque, then follow signs 1.5km east, or take a RM20 taxi. Two-night minimum stay. RM160

Zeck’s Travellers’ Inn Off Jalan Sri Cemerlang 09 743 1613, zecktravellers@yahoo.com; map. Friendly Malay guesthouse in a quiet residential area, with dorms and simple rooms with fan or a/c, some with private bathrooms. Tours and ticket booking are available, and bird-singing contests are held nearby on Friday and Saturday mornings. Dorms RM15, doubles RM35

Homestays

KB homestay programme Various locations. Roselan Hanafiah, at the state tourist office, can arrange for visitors to stay with a local family whose members are expert in a particular craft. The price given here is per night, based on a standard two-night package for two people including all meals and activities. RM555

Pantai Suri homestay programme Suri Island 013 900 8820, homestaypantaisuri.blogspot.com. Contact Fadhila Hanim, the programme coordinator to stay in one of the participating homes; conditions can be fairly basic. You can pay per night (including all meals) or for a two-night package (RM280) that may include fishing, crab catching and kuih sepit (wafer snack) making. RM150

Eating

Kota Bharu has plenty of restaurants dotted around the centre, plus some excellent food options at the main market and the nightly Medan Selera (night food market). The Chinese places on Jalan Kebun Sultan are among the few restaurants that aren’t halal, and are your best bet for alcohol. Otherwise, the rather unexciting Golden City (Mon–Fri & Sun 4pm–midnight), next to Pizza Hut on Jalan Padang Garong, is the city’s sole bar. For a good spot to watch the sun set over the river, head for the line of restaurants behind the closed Pelangi Mall.

Arnold Cycling Cafe Jalan Kebun Sultan 09 744 6888; map. Everything a modern traveller wants from a café, with good a/c, plug sockets, strong wi-fi, decent coffee (RM8–18) and a range of delicious pastries (RM10–15). Despite the name, the only thing cycling-related is the bike hung on the wall. Daily 9am–midnight

Cikgu Kampung Kraftangan 019 940 6066; map. Busy self-service lunch place, offering the classic Malay meal nasi ulam (a rice salad with blanched vegetables and herbs – some of them incredibly bitter). Dishes like fried chicken, vegetable curry and asam pedas ikan patin (catfish in spicy sauce) are laid out alongside rice and ulam. If you’re feeling brave, have the dip made of tempoyak (fermented durian) and budu (fermented fish sauce). Cheap (around RM8 for a filling meal) and best enjoyed with a group. Mon–Thurs, Sat & Sun 11.30am–4.30pm.

Medan Selera (night food market) Off Jalan Pintu Pong; map. The few dozen stalls on the field here offer a great range of murtabak (savoury stuffed pancakes) as well as Kelantanese specialities such as nasi kerabu (rice tinted blue, traditionally using flower petals, and typically served with fish curry). Wash your meal down with sup ekor (oxtail soup) or sup tulang (made from beef bones), and round it off by sampling the colourful kuih (sweets). Almost everything costs RM1–5. Daily 6pm–midnight.

Muhibah Jalan Pintu Pong 09 744 3668; map. Excellent, inexpensive vegetarian establishment. Downstairs a bakery café serves pastries and ice-blended shakes; the upstairs restaurant puts on a great veggie nasi campur spread (RM6–7), as well as à la carte dishes like “chicken” rendang (RM8) and other Chinese and Malay favourites using the Chinese-style textured tofu instead of meat. Daily: restaurant 10am–9pm; bakery 8.30am–10pm.

Shan Sri Dewi Jalan Kebun Sultan 09 746 2980; map. Top-notch Malaysian-Indian kedai kopi, popular with locals but often with a scattering of foreigners, serving excellent banana-leaf thalis (from RM5–12) as well snacks such as roti canai, masala dosa, idly and vada (RM2–4.50). Daily 7.30am–8.30pm.

Tang Ah Juan 4343 Jalan Kebun Sultan 012 983 2788; map. Very popular with the local Chinese, this fairly basic diner with plastic tables and chairs in the heart of Chinatown serves a very decent Chaozhou-style Cantonese nasi campur for RM5–8; it also serves beer (RM18). Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 9am–6pm.

Warisan Nasi Kukus Jalan Kebun Sultan; map. In front of the 7-11, this once humble pushcart operation is very popular, renowned for fresh sambal fish, okra curry, ikan bakar (grilled fish) and the like for around RM6–8 a helping. Your preferred toppings will be poured over steamed rice (nasi kukus), on a newspaper that’s folded into a cone and wrapped for you to take away or eat at their plastic tables. Daily 6pm–late.

White House Jalan Sultanah Zainab 09 748 4119; map. No grand mansion (though next to one) but a ramshackle bungalow housing a kedai kopi that’s a city institution. The trademark dish is humble telur setengah masak – soft-boiled eggs cracked into a saucer, seasoned with soy sauce and white pepper (RM3), and delicious scooped up with roti bakar (buttered toast). Washed down with teh or kopi tarik, it’s great for breakfast or a late snack. Daily 8am–1pm & 9pm–1am.

SHOPPING

In addition to its markets, Kota Bharu is also a good place to buy Malay handicrafts, with most of the workshops located outside town.

KB Mall Jalan Hamzah 09 747 6622, mallofmalaysia.com.my; map. For general shopping, this mall is useful, housing the huge Pacific supermarket, several branded clothing stores, Western food chains, a branch of Watsons pharmacy and plenty more besides. Daily 10am–10.30pm.

Mydin Jalan Pintu Pong; map. Useful supermarket selling essentials. Daily 9am–10.30pm.

Parkson Jalan Parit Dalam; map. A department store that includes a branch of the Giant supermarket. Daily 10am–10pm.

Arrival and Departure: Kuala Besut

By bus There are express buses to KL and Penang directly from Kuala Besut Express bus station, but for other destinations you’ll need to take a taxi (RM30–40; 30min) to the closest transport hub, Jerteh. However, coming from Kota Bharu, Cityliner bus #639 from the local bus station on Jalan Doktor will drop you at the jetty. S.P. Bumi runs a slow, sweaty bus service between the express bus station and Kuala Terengganu via Merang.

Destinations Kota Bharu (5 daily; 2hr); Kuala Lumpur (8 daily; 8hr); Kuala Terengganu (5 daily; 3hr); Penang (8am & 9pm daily; 8hr).

By taxi The taxi stand is next to the bus station, but drivers will also swoop on new arrivals from the islands.

Destinations Jerteh (RM20); Kota Bharu (RM68; RM75 to airport); Kuala Terengganu (RM130); Marang (RM150); Merang (RM85).

By minibus Several travel agents arrange minibuses to a handful of major destinations, including Cameron Highlands (RM60), Penang (RM70) and Taman Negara (RM80); all depart 10am.

By boat Boats sail from Kuala Besut Jetty to the Perhentians several times a day, leaving when full (daily 7am–5.30pm; 30min; RM35 one way). Operators usually sell open-return tickets (RM70), with boats returning to Kuala Besut at 8am, noon and 4pm. Boat service is regular from March to October; at other times sailings are much reduced.

Accommodation and eating

Nan Hotel Down the lane opposite the boat terminal 09 697 4892. Among Kuala Besut’s cheaper rooms, all in decent condition. A couple of rooms have a/c and TV, while the most expensive (RM130) even has hot water. There are plenty of other options along the same street. RM55

Restoran Seafood Lucky Just north of the jetty on Jalan Besar 013 997 9354. This place opens extra early for breakfast, offering dishes such as nasi ayam (RM6) and noodles throughout the day, but it’s the more expensive fresh seafood served later on that attracts most people. Daily 5am–10pm.

Samudera 200m north of the jetty on Jalan Besar 09 697 9326, kekal-samudera.com. The 28 candy-coloured a/c rooms here are spacious, comfortable and reasonably good value, and it’s certainly a step up from the other guesthouses near the jetty. RM112

T’Cafe Near the bus ticket offices 09 697 8777. Deservedly popular kopi kedai dishing up roti canai and nasi dagang (RM2–4) for breakfast, with variations on the rice-and-noodle theme and kerabu salads (RM6–8) to keep you going for the rest of the day. Daily 7am–10pm.

< Back to The east coast

The Perhentian Islands

The name Perhentian Islands (Pulau Perhentian) actually covers two islands, Perhentian Besar and Perhentian Kecil (Big Island and Small Island are sometimes used instead, though Suitcase Island and Backpack Island might be more accurate descriptions). Both are textbook tropical paradises, which retain considerable appeal despite having been developed for tourism. The essentials of any idyllic island holiday – fantastic sandy beaches, great snorkelling and diving – are all in place. Both islands have jungly hills in their interior, with paths for walking and opportunities to spot flying foxes, monkeys and monitor lizards. All this is capped by a refreshingly laidback atmosphere that can make it difficult to tear yourself away.

For many years, large-scale development on the Perhentians was kept to a minimum. This was just as well, given that both islands have several turtle nesting sites, active from April to early August – the only organized viewing is through the Bubbles resort – and that the impact of the existing resorts on the environment is far from negligible. Shortages of water, for example, can be a hassle during peak season. The state government’s attitude towards development has loosened in recent years, however, and a few larger resorts have been completed, with more in the works – particularly on Perhentian Kecil. Alcohol is sold openly at restaurants and bars on both islands, and there’s even a modest party scene at Long Beach.

Arrival and Departure: The perhentian Islands

By boat All access to the Perhentians is from the mainland town of Kuala Besut; boats depart several times a day (usually when full), regularly from March to October, with reduced sailings at other times. All will drop you at the bay of your choice, though at beaches without a jetty you may have to transfer to a smaller boat. The day before your departure, staff at your accommodation will arrange for you to be picked up, with boats usually leaving at 8am, noon and 4pm.

Getting around

By water-taxi Small speedboats operate a so-called water-taxi service around the Perhentians. Fares start at RM10 per person for a journey between adjacent bays – rocky obstructions often preclude walking – rising to RM25 to travel from one side of Besar to the other, or RM15 from one island to the other. Prices are clearly displayed in front of each water-taxi stand, with little room for bargaining, and it’s usually possible to rustle up a boatman within a few minutes. The exception to this is after dark, when water-taxis can become scarce and you may have to pay double the usual fare. If you simply need to get to the next beach, you may be able to use a footpath instead (after dark a torch is essential).

accommodation

Perhentian Kecil caters largely to the backpacker scene, and much of its accommodation is in low-priced chalets and resorts, many with restricted electricity supply. The construction of several mid-range resorts, however, has brought the same families, package tourists and better-heeled independent travellers that have traditionally gravitated to Perhentian Besar. Book in advance for the peak season – roughly June until the end of August – and at weekends, or you may have trouble getting a room. Many mid-range places offer full-board packages, typically for three days and two nights, and include boat transfers and some snorkelling or diving. B&B deals are also available, and unless you’re on one of the more remote beaches, there’s no shortage of places to eat. Outside peak season rates fall by at least a quarter. Many resorts begin closing in late October, sometimes earlier, and don’t open again until February or March, but for a truly isolated island experience a few places stay open during the northeast monsoon. Note that both internet and 3/4G services are almost unusable on the islands, especially during the peak season, as there simply isn’t enough bandwidth for either, and many places no longer bother with wi-fi due to the associated hassle. If you do have internet access, however, note that it generally works best between 2–8am.

Perhentian Kecil

The small island of Perhentian Kecil has something to please most people. If you’re looking for a laidback backpacker scene with the odd beach party, you’ve come to the right place, but several mid-range resorts cater for those who need a comfortable bed after a day snorkelling. The most popular beaches, Coral Bay and Long Beach, are only ten minutes’ walk apart, along a woodland footpath.

Long Beach

For many visitors, east-facing Long Beach, boasting a wide stretch of glistening-white, deep, soft sand, is the prime attraction of Perhentian Kecil. The pretty beach is possibly over-busy, far from litter free, and lacks a view of the sunset, but somehow that really doesn’t matter: the light gently fades away, leaving the illumination from the beach restaurants (and their Bob Marley or dance music playlists) to dominate the senses. Come nightfall there’s a genuinely infectious buzz – in peak season expect pop-up bars and a party vibe on the beach.

Coral Bay and the west coast

While west-facing Coral Bay has become significantly more developed since the building of its huge and ugly jetty, it remains quieter and more relaxed than Long Beach. It also has sheltered waters, which make it a better bet than its eastern rival during the northeast monsoon, plus good snorkelling and sunset views, if you can ignore the jetty.

A couple of quieter and more secluded beaches lie south of Coral Bay, with accommodation in rustic campsites or guesthouses reached along a shady coastal footpath. Mira Beach has just one backpacker hangout, while Petani Beach has two resorts awkwardly jammed into its eastern end, and two smaller guesthouses enjoying the remaining stretch of beach.

Perhentians dos and don’ts

• Do bring more than enough cash – there are no banks or ATMs. Only mid-range places accept plastic for accommodation and food, often with a small surcharge. Several places offer cash advances for a significant fee.

• Do bring mosquito repellent.

• Don’t leave valuables, even clothes, unattended on the beach – whether crowded or deserted – while you swim or snorkel. Thieves can appear seemingly from nowhere on snatch-and-grab raids, a particular problem on Perhentian Kecil. Also be aware thieves sometimes enter rooms, so keep your valuables with you if possible, and make sure your room is completely secured before you go out.

• Do swim with care: look out for boat lanes, marked by strings of buoys, and stay on the correct side to avoid being wiped out by a speedboat. Note also that Long Beach can have a significant undertow from February to April and in October; a few people get swept out every year and have to be rescued.

• Do be mindful of volleyball nets and sharp-pronged boat anchors sticking out of the sand as you walk along the beach at night – particularly if you’re looking up at the stars.

• Don’t touch the coral or disturb marine life when you snorkel or dive.

Snorkelling and diving around the Perhentians

Outside the monsoon, the waters around the Perhentians are superb with gentle currents and visibility up to 20m (although sea lice can sometimes be an irritant, inflicting unpleasant but harmless stings). A snorkelling foray around the rocks at the ends of most bays turns up an astonishing array of brightly coloured fish, including blacktip reef sharks, and an occasional turtle. The seas around the islands belong to a national park and the coral is protected, although as elsewhere in the region it suffered bleaching due to high sea temperatures in 2010, though patches of live coral still remain.

If you just want to explore around the main beaches, then snorkels and masks can be rented (RM15–20/day) from accommodation, dive shops or shacks on the main beaches – most places can also arrange snorkelling trips to undeveloped coves for around RM35–60 per person including gear. Many travellers recommend the trips operated by Maya Guesthouse (019 222 9257) on Coral Beach; like most operators, though, they often take very large groups. Typical itineraries include Turtle Point (between the islands), Shark Point, Romantic Beach and the lighthouse; lunch, normally in the village on Perhentian Kecil, costs extra.

Some very good dive sites lie a short boat ride offshore, including the Pinnacle (or Temple of the Sea), T3 and Sugar Wreck (a boat that sank while carrying a cargo of sugar). Several of the islands’ numerous dive shops organize night dives on the “Vietnamese” Wreck (actually a 1976 US landing craft, Advanced Open Water qualification required). In addition to fun dives (RM75–80), the shops also offer courses, including Open Water (around RM1000), Advanced Open Water (around RM950) and the introductory Discover Scuba Diving (around RM250–300); a handful, including Flora Bay Divers, also offer specialist facilities such as Nitrox. Most places teach PADI courses, although Alu Alu (Perhentian Besar; 09 691 1650, alualudivers.com) offers both PADI and SSI.

Recommended dive shops

Bubbles Dive Resort Tanjung Tukas 012 983 8038, bubblesdc.com.

Flora Bay Divers Flora Bay 09 691 9266, florabaydivers.com.

Quiver Dive Team Coral Bay 09 691 1755, quiver-perhentian.com.

Turtle Bay Divers Long Beach and Perhentian Besar Main Beach 019 669 0028, turtlebaydivers.com.

Accommodation: Perhentian Kecil

Room rates on Perhentian Kecil – particularly on Long Beach – are rather fluid, varying from day to day with demand. Most of the cheaper accommodations are pretty poor value and badly maintained, mainly due to the scarcity of rooms during high season, so don’t expect too much for your money – booking ahead is also highly recommended. The prices quoted here are at the higher end of the range for each property; ask about discounts if you visit midweek or either side of the July–August peak. Almost all accommodations now have attached dive shops, and rooms are much better value as part of a dive package. Due to the scarcity of rooms during high season there are now several places to camp, with campsites on Long Beach at the Chillout Café and at Awatif next door, as well as at the Rainforest Campground and Café between Coral Bay and Mira Beach

Long Beach

If you would rather a good night’s sleep than party, don’t stay anywhere near the beach.

Bintang View A short walk uphill from the beach 019 309 2145; map. Run by a friendly Malay-Irish couple. Not the fanciest of chalets, but well-kept and very homely. Some of the fan-cooled chalets have en-suite bathrooms, while cheaper cabins lack power sockets and share facilities in a separate block. Electricity 7pm–7am. RM80

Bubu Resort Long Beach 016 260 3547, reservations 03 2142 6688, buburesort.com; map. With a motel-like complex of en-suite a/c rooms at one end of Long Beach, and a clutch of deluxe villas at the other, plus two spas and three restaurants (including the only Japanese), Bubu dominates the upper end of Perhentian Kecil’s accommodation. The rooms and villas are perfectly nice, but it jars a little here. Doubles RM871, villas RM1100

Chempaka End of the beach 013 697 7604; map. This tucked-away place has a mishmash of run-down A-frames, and better en-suite chalets in a longhouse-type block around a pleasant garden. Electricity 7pm–7am. A-frames RM80, chalets RM120

D’Rock Garden Resort On the beach’s southern headland 03 8920 2922, rockgardenchalet.com; map. A prime location on the hill overlooking the beach, the standard fan rooms with shared bathrooms are basic, but clean and pretty good value (a sea view will cost RM90 extra, though) while the better a/c rooms are all en suite and have views of the sea (RM230), though hot water costs a staggering RM100 extra. There’s 24hr electricity and wi-fi in the restaurant, which boasts the best views of the beach around. RM60

Lemon Grass Long Beach 019 938 3893; map. Splintery but sound chalets with fans, hammocks and mosquito nets; bathrooms in a separate shack. Three sea-view rooms are available for RM120. There’s sporadic electricity and a two-night minimum stay in peak season. RM70

Matahari Set back from Long Beach 019 914 2883, mataharichalet.com; map. A hotel of two halves, with a collection of wooden chalets (fan and newer a/c ones) and A-frames, with an incongruous two-storey concrete dorm and fan room block – the dorms are pretty grubby, however. The largely en-suite chalets are a little rough around the edges, but pretty good value and popular. Both are accessed down a footpath that runs over a smelly creek. Electricity 6.30pm–9am & noon-3pm. Dorms RM30, chalets RM90

Oh La La Long Beach, 019 331 9624, ohlalaperhentian.com; map. European-run dive resort with ten simple wood-partitioned fan rooms, and a dorm, all with shared bathrooms. It’s above one bar and beside another, however, so is quite noisy at night. There’s a pleasant communal balcony with hammocks; most people staying here are doing dive courses as room prices are halved if you’re doing one. Dorms RM40, doubles RM80

Panorama Set back from Long Beach 019 960 8630, panoramaperhentianisland.com; map. Overpriced chalets with fans or a/c, plus better-value dorms, all set around a messy hillside garden. There’s a popular restaurant plus a dive shop; they offer all-inclusive diving packages. High-season rates often include one free meal. Electricity 11am–4.30pm & 6.30pm–8am. Dorms RM50, chalets RM120

Sunrise Long Beach 017 930 9053; map. In the thick of things on the top floor of the two-storey block of shops in the middle of the beach. Ten-person dorms and fan-cooled rooms are a bit grotty but okay for just sleeping and understandably popular with those on a tight budget. Dorms RM20, doubles RM100

Tropicana Inn & Tivoli Backpackers Midway between Long Beach and Coral Bay 09 691 8888; map. A compact development with 160 rooms in neat whitewashed bungalows, with budget and more upmarket (RM300) sections that share a reception. The good-value fan rooms and dorms (min. 3 nights) are the stars here, being bright and far cleaner than their equivalents on Long Beach. Dorms RM30, doubles RM80

Coral Bay

Butterfly At the end of Coral Bay 012 966 4232; map. The tucked away, budget chalets strung out on the hill on the headland here are run-down but charming, popular with long-term guests including dive masters. The further you get from reception, the better the sea views become. Electricity 7pm–7am. RM70

Ewan’s Place Just behind Coral Bay 014 817 8303; map. A great choice if you don’t mind being a couple of minutes from the beach, with clean and tidy rooms set around a scrubby clearing. The en-suite chalets are nicely maintained, with mosquito nets and almost 24hr electricity. Friendly owner Ewan also runs the on-site café, which has wi-fi. RM90

Maya Chalet Coral Bay 019 990 2561; map. En-suite fan chalets around a garden compound, with electricity 7pm–7am and a premium for sea-view rooms (RM170). They allow camping in the garden and can rent you a tent for RM10/day, as well as organizing popular snorkelling trips. Camping RM10, chalets RM50

Ombak Dive Resort Coral Bay 09 691 1002, ombak.my; map. A modern multistorey complex, Ombak has 24 fan and a/c rooms (RM100 extra) awkwardly shoehorned behind their popular seafront restaurant and dive shop. All have en-suite bathrooms, some with balconies too, though they’re only decent value if you take a dive package. RM265

Senja Bay Resort Coral Bay 019 283 0802, senjabay.com; map. This complex of en-suite chalets, built on a hillside and connected by decking, contains quite spacious and well-maintained rooms. There’s also a restaurant and dive shop; snorkelling and diving packages are available. Breakfast included, and there’s 24-hour electricity. RM169

Shari-La Island Resort Northern end of Coral Bay 09 691 1500, shari-la.com; map. Fairly upmarket resort with dozens of chalets spread out over a well-manicured hillside and overlooking its own private beach. The rooms are pretty good value for the island, though the cheapest are a bit small and have no hot water. RM159

The rest of the island

D’Lagoon Teluk Kerma 019 985 7089, dlagoon.my; map. Nestling in a secluded cove at the island’s northeastern tip (which is also one of the island’s best snorkelling sites), this friendly, family-run place makes for a great escape. Accommodation includes a dorm, fan-cooled, en-suite cabins, and an a/c treehouse (RM170). It’s a long walk to the cove, but a water-taxi costs just RM10/person from Long Beach. Dive shop on site, as well as a short zipline. Dorms RM25, cabins RM100

Ecoteer Community House Kampung Pasir Hantu ecoteerresponsibletravel.com; map. Staying in the islands’ sole village gives a very different island experience, helping with marine conservation and research, and other eco-projects, while getting to know the community. Accommodation is in mixed dorms near the community house, with the weekly price dropping the longer you stay. Prices include the transfer from the mainland, meals, a minimum of eight dives a week, and a snorkel tour. Since the research is underwater, you’ll need to do a PADI course if you don’t already have a licence. Minimum two week package RM3500

Mari Mari Petani Beach 012 998 1145; map. The five rooms at this quirky guesthouse have been lovingly constructed from flotsam and jetsam, making it a great spot to live out your desert island dreams. Two rooms share bathroom facilities, while three have their own open-air bathroom (RM120). They serve up local food (RM20–50), or you can go to the restaurant at the swanky resort at the other end of the beach. Open year-round. RM80

Mira Beach Chalet Mira Beach 016 643 6406; map. A range of rustic chalets clustered in an beautiful, isolated cove, a 20min walk south of Coral Bay. Despite a recent hike in prices and slightly chaotic management, it’s still a backpacker favourite. Most of the nine rooms share bathroom facilities. Snorkelling trips RM40–55, and there’s a small restaurant. Electricity noon–3pm & 7pm–7am. RM130

Eating and drinking

Most places to eat are connected to accommodation – they’re fine but rarely very exciting – we’ve listed the ones worth seeking out below. For nightlife, most people drink at guesthouse bars such as at Oh La La, or the Monkey Bar before decamping to the south of the beach where Beach Bar (one of many pop up bars here) has a fire show from 9pm; expect quite a party atmosphere. Coral Bay’s only real bar is the pricey Ombak Café; beers sold from coolers on the beach can be taken into most restaurants.

Long beach

Chillout Café Long Beach 017 979 2950; map. Towards the north of a beach, this laidback café serves some great breakfast sets (RM14–22) along with pancakes (RM9–14), local-style meals (RM15–18) and a fair stab at pizza (RM18–30). They also have a local crafts shop and a campsite (two person tent RM50), though no wi-fi. Daily 8am–11pm.

Monkey Bar Long Beach; map. One of only a handful of permanent bars on the beach, this is one of the places where people start the evening; sit by the bar or lounge around in a hammock or on the beach out front. Beers go for RM10 while a small bottle of “monkey juice” (twenty percent alcohol) costs RM40. Live music at weekends. It also has a dive shop and backpacker accommodation. Daily 6pm–around 2am.

World Café Long Beach 09 697 8888, buburesort.com.my; map. This good-looking beach restaurant serves tasty but pricey Western food, from sandwiches (RM35–40) and pasta (RM50–60) to grilled lobster (RM185), with a buffet breakfast (RM55) every morning. Daily 7.30–10pm.

Coral Bay

Ewan’s Café On the path between Coral Bay and Long Beach; map. Superfriendly owner Ewan (“Ee-wan”) serves tasty, well-presented and great-value Malay dishes in his large and airy wooden restaurant tucked away just behind the beach. Pick a main ingredient – chicken/beef (RM14), veg (RM9) or prawn (RM18) – then select a cooking style and/or sauce. Also does some pretty good Western standards such as burgers and sandwiches (RM6.50–9). Wi-fi. Daily 8am–10.30pm.

Rainforest Campground and Café Between Coral Bay and Mira Beach 012 308 0525; map. On a quiet bay a 5min walk north of Mira Beach, Rainforest serves hot drinks, beers, juices and simple Malaysian food and breakfasts (RM10–15) in a Robinson Crusoe-esque environment, the floor covered with coral, the walls hung with fishing nets – it’s a great place to break the coastal walk. There’s a campsite attached (two-person tent), handy if you can’t bring yourself to leave. Daily 9am–9pm.

Perhentian Besar

The larger of the two islands, Perhentian Besar, has a more grown-up atmosphere. Although it holds a few relatively cheap options in addition to the mid-range resorts, it doesn’t have the backpacker scene or nightlife of its neighbour. On the other hand, the beaches remain relaxed, despite some nearly continuous strings of development.

Western shore

The chain of attractive beaches on the western shore facing Perhentian Kecil are separated by rocks, though the southernmost ones are best avoided unless you like boats zipping past every few minutes, and the vibe gets better the further north you go. At high tide most beaches can be accessed along concrete walkways, with the notable exception of the path between Mama’s and Cozy Chalet, which is essentially a fifteen-minute jungle trek – a boat taxi may be preferable, especially if you’re carrying luggage. Most beaches are lined with resorts, but in a pleasingly organic way; the main beach has a good vibe after dark when the restaurants get busy. At the northern end of the main strip, the Perhentian Island Resort sits alone on one of the best stretches of sand, Teluk Pauh.

Flora Bay and the south coast

Flora Bay (Teluk Dalam) is less cramped than the western shore. Although it is home to several of the larger resorts, there are also some family-run businesses. The beach isn’t the best on the island, especially when the tide is out, but it’s more relaxed than the west coast ones. Further east, Bubbles resort sits on its own beach, only accessible by boat.

From the western shore, a steep trail (1km; 30min) to Flora Bay begins just past the second jetty south of Abdul’s, behind the Teluk Keke beach restaurant. Another, prettier trail links Flora Bay with the Perhentian Island Resort (1.5km; 40min), starting behind the island’s waterworks in Flora Bay.

Three Coves Bay

For the finest beaches on the Perhentians, take a water-taxi to Three Coves Bay (also known as Turtle Bay or Teluk Tiga Ruang) on the north of the island, a stunning chain of three beaches with crystal-clear waters, separated from the western shore by rocky outcrops. It’s a great spot to spend the day, so get your boatman’s telephone number or arrange a pick-up time for the return trip. This area also provides a secluded haven for green and hawksbill turtles to lay their eggs and as such may be off-limits during nesting season.

Accommodation: Perhentian Besar

Western shore

Coral View Northern main beach 09 691 1700, coralviewislandresort.com; map. A range of wood-panelled rooms, mainly in steep-roofed chalets with small attached bathrooms. They’re connected by walkways through a pleasant garden, and the standard rooms in particular are good value. There’s a restaurant, dive shop, minimart, batik shop, library and foreign currency exchange. RM149

Mama’s Chalet Northern main beach 013 369 6232, mamaschalet.com.my; map. Prim, very decent chalets along a narrow stretch of beach, including a few sea-facing ones with multicoloured fanlights. All rooms have private facilities, and there’s a popular restaurant. Wi-fi available in restaurant only. RM100

New Cocohut Southern main beach 09 697 7988, perhentianislandcocohut.com; map. Friendly Chinese-run establishment with modern en-suite chalets; the same management also runs Cozy Chalet resort, with similar but more spacious chalets ranged over a nearby hillside (RM230–340). All have a/c, TV and fridge; the more expensive ones have sea views, and there’s a popular restaurant. Rates include breakfast and are discounted by a quarter either side of peak season. RM280

Perhentian Island Resort Teluk Pauh 09 691 1112 or 03 2144 8532, perhentianislandresort.net; map. Set on a very appealing stretch of beach, this resort – known as PIR – has a veritable campus of bungalows and chalets, all spacious and boasting modern furnishings and verandas. There’s even a swimming pool, tennis court and spa. RM580

Reef Chalets Northern main beach 013 981 6762; map. A semicircle of a/c chalets with hints of traditional Malay architecture in the design and spotless bathrooms. The interiors are simple, most rooms with mosquito nets and pleasant verandas, and the garden setting is very attractive. RM140

Tunabay Island Resort Southern main beach 09 690 2902, tunabay.com.my; map. This slickly managed collection of chalets gets it just right, combining the comforts of a mid-range city hotel (including beach towels for guests) with a cool informality that’s perfect for a laidback beach holiday. The bar and restaurant are deservedly popular. Breakfast included. RM318

Watercolours Paradise Resort Northern main beach 019 981 1852, impiani.com; map. This resort offers en-suite chalet rooms with fans and small verandas though no power sockets. There’s also a well-run dive shop and a busy restaurant (7.30am–10pm). Note that a RM20 surcharge is levied on school and public holidays. RM100

Flora Bay and the South Coast

B’First Chalets Flora Bay 014 534 2114, b’firstchalet@yahoo.com; map. This row of six concrete buildings is nothing special, but the large, clean fan rooms are good value and its friendly, family-run environment is far more pleasant than any of the resorts or hotels There’s a typical beach café at the front, and all-day electricity, but no wi-fi. RM60

Bayu Dive Lodge Flora Bay 09 691 1650, bayudivelodge.com; map. You don’t have to be a diver to stay in the friendly guesthouse linked to the Alu-Alu dive shop. There’s a large range of rooms arranged compactly in a lush garden, including sea-view cottages (RM270), chalets and terraced fan rooms. Cottages are designed along traditional Malaysian lines, while other room categories are more standard. RM120

Bubbles Tanjung Tukas 019 599 9628, bubblesdc.com; map. A RM10 boat ride from Flora Bay, this family-friendly resort has a beach to itself, and combines isolation with good facilities including a dive shop and in-house zoologist who looks after the resort’s turtle hatchery. Rooms cost RM64 extra on Friday and Saturday nights. 24hr electricity. RM340

Fauna Beach Flora Bay 019 978 2254, d.fauna@yahoo.com; map. Some of these 35 pleasant, unremarkable chalets are fan-cooled, and a couple of them enjoy Perhentian Besar’s cheapest sea views (RM80). The remainder have a/c (RM90 extra), but are shabby and overpriced. RM65

Flora Bay & Flora Bay 2 Flora Bay 09 691 1666, florabayresort.com; map. En-suite accommodation ranging from inexpensive fan rooms to beachfront chalets, including some overpriced a/c units (RM170). Flora Bay, with its garden of frangipanis and oleanders, is marginally preferable; its counterpart (where the fan rooms are located) features utilitarian two-storey blocks. Breakfast costs RM30–35 extra and there’s a good dive shop attached. RM70

Eating and drinking

Almost all Besar’s places to eat are affiliated with resorts. Most of the best options are on the western shore: you can’t go far wrong at New Cocohut for Chinese food, Mama’s Chalet for Malay or Watercolours for pizza. The food on Flora Bay is generally less interesting, with a few open-air restaurants serving Western and Asian standards plus the odd barbecue. As for drinking, it’s largely a matter of choosing one of the resort bars that serves beer.

Mandalika Flora Bay 019 983 7690; map. With an extensive menu that ranges from roti canai (RM4) to Malay style fish and chips (RM15), good sandwiches (RM10–20) and a nightly barbecue, this cool beach shack is a good way to escape expensive resort food. Owner Halim’s sister runs Nia Cafe (south of the Marine Park Offices on Main Beach) along the same lines. No alcohol. Daily 7am–11pm.

Tuna Café Tunabay Island Resort, southern main beach 09 691 1800, tunabay.com.my; map. One of the most adventurous kitchens on the islands, serving pasta and salads (RM10–28) plus more expensive seafood, and evening barbecues (RM35–75) with wine by the glass (RM20) or bottle (from RM70). Daily 7.15–10am & 4pm-midnight.

beach on Perhentian Besar island

Setiu Wetlands

As a breeding ground for the painted terrapin and green turtle, the Setiu Wetlands, between Kuala Besut and Merang, have been a focus for WWF projects since the early 1990s, but even now they attract only a trickle of tourists. Both the main settlements hereabouts, namely Penarik, on the T1 coastal road, and Mangkok, 4km to the north, are small villages with poor transport connections, so the easiest way to explore is on a tour organized by an operator in Kuala Terengganu.

Pewanis

Pink House, Kampung Mangkok • Mon–Thurs & Sun 8.30am–5pm • 013 997 1195, but note that little English is spoken so you may need to get a Malay speaker to call for you

The Pewanis community project improves the financial position of local women, while working with the WWF on environmental projects. With advance notice, visitors can learn how to make banana chip snacks, help plant mangrove trees or take part in kite-making sessions. Staff can arrange bicycle rental and organize trips to the nearby turtle hatchery.

Arrival and Departure: Setiu Wetlands

By taxi Public transport is limited, so if you don’t come on a tour it’s best to rent a car or take a taxi (RM80 from Kuala Terengganu).

By bus Buses between Kuala Besut and Kuala Terengganu (4 daily) can drop you at the turning for Mangkok, and you can walk the 3km from there.

Tours By far the best option is to come on an organized tour. Ping Anchorage, for example, can arrange a trip including a visit to Pewanis, a turtle hatchery and a man raising ayam serama (chickens bred for competitions, which sell for up to a staggering RM8000 each).

Accommodation and Eating

The women of Pewanis have started a homestay scheme (full board RM100/person) and the area has a couple of places to stay, including a stunning resort. There are few notable places to eat other than at accommodation or roadside kedai kopis – look out for local speciality ikan celup tebung (battered fish).

Pandan Laut 4km south of Penarik on Pantai Rhu Sepuluh 013 681 2495, pandanlaut.com. Set in a leafy site, the seventeen aged but tidy rooms range from a decent A-frame through wooden chalets to a vast family suite. You’ll need to take your meals elsewhere, but turtle watching is free and they can arrange snorkelling day-trips to Redang Island (RM120/person). A-frames RM50, chalets RM100

Terrapuri Heritage Village Kampung Mangkok 09 624 5020, terrapuri.com. A labour of love for the owner of Ping Anchorage travel agency, this site, sandwiched between wetlands and beach, features 29 traditional wooden buildings that have been saved from neglect elsewhere in Terengganu and carefully reconstructed. Staff can arrange day-trips or you can lounge by the pool; there’s also a spa. Breakfast included. RM639

Merang

Most travellers who make it to MERANG, on the coastal road just south of the Sungai Merang creek, only glimpse the back of the village on their way to the jetty. The beach, accessible along a couple of side roads, is not exceptional, there’s reasonable swimming and memorable views of the islands offshore – from left to right, the Perhentians, Lang Tengah, Redang and finally Bidung Laut, now uninhabited but once the site of a refugee camp for Vietnamese boat people.

Arrival and Departure: Merang

By bus S.P. Bumi’s buses between Kuala Besut and Kuala Terengganu (4 daily) stop close to Merang’s school.

By taxi A taxi to Merang costs around RM90 from Kuala Besut, RM80 from Kuala Terengganu.

By boat Jetties for the resorts on Redang and Lang Tengah line the riverside, 500m walk from the bus stop (walk towards and past the traffic lights). Most packages include boat transfers, but tickets are also available from the boatmen. In peak season Nurul Boat Services (012 952 3307, boattoredang.com) runs hourly return services to Redang Island (9am–3pm; RM50) and one to Lang Tengah Island (timing varies; RM80). They also do snorkelling trips to both islands which cost RM700–900 for up to ten people (9am–3pm; snorkelling equipment RM15/person; lunch not included) so you can save money by staying on the mainland.

Accommodation and Eating

This quiet stretch of coast has a limited amount of beachfront accommodation, with one or two peeling resorts 4km south of the jetty, near Kampung Rhu Tapai. Merang’s dining scene is limited to a handful of stalls near the jetty, and a few kedai kopis on the road to Kuala Terengganu.

Kembara Resort 474 Pantai Peranginan 09 653 1770, kembararesort.tripod.com. A little run-down but the only budget accommodation in Merang, set in a large well-shaded garden; follow signs down a side road from the bus stop then turn right. The rooms, a mix of cabins and two single-sex dorms, some with a/c, are popular with groups – call ahead before lugging your bags out here. Dorms RM35, cabins RM140

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Redang Island

Beautiful Redang Island is geared primarily toward visitors on resort-based scuba diving package trips. Don’t expect a quiet island getaway; at weekends and school holidays, bars along the main beach have music or karaoke until midnight.

A kampung has been built inland for the two-thousand-strong fishing community who formerly lived in a traditional floating village here, which was removed in 2001 to make way for a jetty and other tourist developments. The highlight of the social calendar, April’s candat sotong festival celebrates a pastime popular all along the east coast of the Peninsula, catching squid using small hand-held lures with hooks on one end.

Snorkelling and diving

For most visitors, the chief attraction of Redang is the abundant marine life. The reefs have endured a lot over recent decades, including a mid-1970s attack by the crown-of-thorns starfish, and silt deposition caused by development. More recently the coral has suffered from bleaching due to high water temperatures. Thankfully, coral reefs have remarkable properties for self-renewal, and Redang’s marine environment appears to have stabilized.

Conservation has certainly been helped by the designation of the Redang archipelago as one of Malaysia’s marine parks, and by the regulation of activities such as spear-fishing, trawling and watersports. The best snorkelling is off the southern coast around the islets of Pinang and Ekor Tibu; the larger resorts take endless boats stuffed with tourists – and bags of fish food – to the main sites, so find a smaller group if you can. Diving is also excellent, with most sites off Redang’s eastern shore – almost every resort has its own dive shop. Snorkelling day-trips are also available from Merang and Pandan Laut.

Arrival and Departure: Redang Island

Regular transport to Redang only runs between March and October, when the resorts are open. A conservation fee of RM5 covers three days’ stay, and is included in your accommodation price.

By boat Most packages include a boat ticket to Redang. Departures are from Merang (RM90 return), or Kuala Terengganu’s Shahbandar jetty (RM110 return); check with your accommodation.

Accommodation

Most of Redang’s accommodation is on the island’s eastern shore, on Pasir Panjang (Long Beach), the adjacent Shark Bay or, just to the south, Teluk Kalong. Pasir Panjang has a particularly gorgeous stretch of fine white sand; Teluk Kalong’s beach is narrower and pebbly in places, but inviting nonetheless. Unless otherwise noted, the resorts have en-suite, a/c rooms and their own restaurants. Many also have dive shops and offer diving-specific packages.

Rates Given that packages tend to be the cheapest way to visit, reviews here include the price per night of a basic two-night full-board package for two people, which typically includes buffet meals, a couple of snorkelling trips (but not equipment rental) and transfers. Rates shown do not include typical weekend/holiday surcharges of RM25–100/person; expect discounts of around 25 percent at the start or end of the season.

Pasir Panjang/Shark Bay

Coral Redang Pasir Panjang 09 630 7110, coralredang.com.my. Located at the quieter end of the beach, this place has more character than most others on Redang. Rooms are arranged in quaint two-storey buildings, and there’s a small swimming pool with a poolside bar. The food isn’t great, so you may prefer the B&B option over the full board package. Scuba diving is an additional RM200/person. B&B RM385, full board RM685

Laguna Redang Shark Bay 09 630 7888, lagunaredang.com.my. Huge, luxurious establishment, with more than two hundred rooms and a large free-form pool, famous within Asia as the location of the Hong Kong comedy movie Summer Holiday (1999). A wide range of packages and rooms, all very comfortable and well equipped. Activities include snorkelling, canoe rental, archery and massage. Wi-fi only available for a fee, in the lobby. RM638

Redang Beach Resort Shark Bay 09 623 8188, redang.com.my. This is a sizeable collection of two-storey attractive wooden units with comfortable rooms, some of which have been recently remodelled. There’s a tiny swimming pool and nightly entertainment, should you need either. RM539

Redang Lagoon Chalet Pasir Panjang 09 666 5020, redanglagoon.com. While the wooden chalets – arranged in two long rows – are nothing special, this is still good value, and is particularly popular with Malay families. RM340

Redang Reef Shark Bay 09 630 6181, redangreefresort.com.my. Perched on the headland at the southern end of Shark Bay, reached by a long wooden walkway, this good-value resort is less luxurious than its neighbours, with simply furnished rooms and a bar overlooking the sea. RM400

TELUK KALONG

Redang Kalong Teluk Kalong 03 7960 7163 (KL), redangkalong.com. While this peaceful beach isn’t quite as nice as Pasir Panjang, its only resort is popular nonetheless. Many of the 39 basic and rather sparsely furnished rooms offer sea views, and the five-star IDC “Divers’ Den” dive centre gets rave reviews. RM420

Flora Bay

The Taaras Beach & Spa Resort Flora Bay 09 221 3997, thetaaras.com. Formerly known as the Berjaya, this luxury resort is a cut above the rest in terms of service, facilities and prices, with golf buggies to help you get between the well-appointed rooms, spa, restaurants, dive shop, swimming pools and tennis courts. RM960

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Lang Tengah Island

Although Lang Tengah Island (Pulau Lang Tengah) is largely a package destination, it holds just a handful of spread-out places to stay and therefore offers a lower-key experience than its near-neighbour Redang Island. As well as attractive and quiet beaches, there’s some good snorkelling, including a patch of blue coral (Heliopora coerulea) offshore from the Sari Pacifica. All the resorts, with the exception of Lang Sari, have dive shops.

Turtles lay their eggs on certain beaches; staff at D’Coconut Lagoon wake guests if any are spotted during the night on nearby Turtle Beach.

Arrival and Departure: Lang Tengah island

By boat Most people visit on packages, which usually includes boat transfers (and the RM5 per visitor conservation charge) from Merang. though Lang Sari charge RM120 return on top of the listed price. Most boats leave before 10am, but afternoon charters are possible (contact resorts for details).

Accommodation

Lang Tengah holds just four resorts, all of which can get very busy at weekends and public holidays (when prices rise by RM30–100 per person). The full-board prices listed below are per night, based on two people sharing on a two-night package (which includes boat transfers and a daily snorkelling trip, though not gear).

D’Coconut Lagoon Lang Tengah Island 03 4252 6686, dcoconutlagoon.com. Split into two wings a couple of minutes’ walk apart. All rooms have a/c and hot showers; those in the much nicer west wing are more expensive (around RM100 more) than those in the east wing, quoted here. The resort gives out a very handy sketch map of the island. B&B RM280, full board RM465

Lang Sari Resort Lang Tengah Island 03 2181 8370, saripacificalangtengah.com. This resort offering private accommodation in individual villas has some sea-view rooms pretty much on the beach (with good coral just offshore) and very friendly staff, though the whole place is in need of renovation. RM645

Sari Pacifica Lang Tengah Island 09 690 0300, saripacificaredangisland.com. Set on a lovely bit of beach and decorated in a traditional yet modern style; the cheaper rooms are far from luxurious, but the more expensive ones are worth the extra (an additional RM100), though all have a jacuzzi bath in the bathroom. RM554

Summer Bay Resort Lang Tengah Island 09 623 9911, summerbayresort.com.my. Packages at this resort, with simple, wood-panelled, en-suite rooms in two-storey blocks, though the more expensive rooms are much more luxurious. The resort also has the only minimart on the island. RM976

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Kuala Terengganu

After a long spell as an important port trading with the Chinese, KUALA TERENGGANU (the capital of Terengganu state) had by the late nineteenth century been eclipsed by the rise of Singapore and other new ports in the Melaka Strait. Following the transfer of Terengganu from Siamese to British control in the early twentieth century, the state became the last in the Peninsula to take a British Adviser, in 1919. It continued to languish as a rural state with, unusually, most of its settlements at river mouths rather than on the lower reaches of rivers, as elsewhere in Peninsular Malaysia.

The discovery of oil in the 1980s transformed its fortunes; modern Kuala Terengganu is even more of a hotchpotch than most Malaysian cities, the remnants of its constituent kampungs sprinkled with oil-funded showpieces and construction sites. There is, nevertheless, a certain austerity about Terengganu state that’s noticeable in Kuala Terengganu. It lacks the commercial buzz of Kuantan or even Kota Bharu, partly because oil revenues have barely trickled down to ordinary people but also because in some respects the state is more conservative and inward-looking than neighbouring Kelantan.

Many visitors use the city simply as a transit point for Terengganu’s best-known attractions – the pleasant beaches that line most of the coastline, and glorious islands including the Perhentians, Redang, Lang Tengah and Kapas. Using the city as a base, you can also venture inland to the lake of Tasik Kenyir. Even in itself Kuala Terengganu holds enough to reward a day or two’s sightseeing, in particular the old town with its lively Central Market and the adjacent historic Chinatown; the State Museum, among the best of such complexes in Malaysia; and Duyong Island, where the city’s maritime heritage just about survives.

Old town

Kuala Terengganu’s compact centre is built on a semicircular parcel of land that bulges north into the mouth of the Terengganu River, which flows past the western half of the city, where the old town is located. The eastern half of the city is flanked by the South China Sea, with ongoing land reclamation rapidly altering the shoreline.

Bukit Puteri

Mon–Thurs, Sat & Sun 9am–5pm, Fri 9am–noon & 3–5pm • RM1 • 09 622 1444

A lovely little park with mature trees and chirruping cicadas, the steep hillock of Bukit Puteri (“Princess Hill”) is crowned by a white tower that still serves as a lighthouse. You can access the hill via the escalators at the Bazaar Warisan (Heritage Bazaar) on Jalan Sultan Zainal Abidin.

Wide-ranging views take in the Terengganu River and the bell-shaped roofs of the blindingly white Masjid Zainal Abidin just to the south. Relics of the hill’s time as an early nineteenth-century stronghold include a fort, its bricks once bound with honey (although it’s now concrete), and several cannons imported from Spain and Portugal.

Central Market

Daily 6am–5pm

Close to the lacklustre Bazaar Warisan with its assorted batik shops and jewellers, the ground floor of the much more rewarding Central Market (Pasar Payang) is occupied by a thriving wet market. Look out for stalls selling keropok (dried fish paste) and Malay confections in just about every conceivable hue. The upper floors comprise a maze of food stalls and outlets selling batik, songket and brassware.

Chinatown

Reached via Jalan Kampung Cina, south of the central market, Kuala Terengganu’s Chinatown was established in the eighteenth century, when the trading links between Terengganu and China drew in early Chinese settlers. The main street is lined with pastel-coloured shophouses, one of the finest examples of which, the sky-blue Teck Soon Heritage House, is occasionally open to the public as a museum. Further south, the Peranakan Photo Gallery (daily 9am–5pm; free) displays black-and-white photographs showing the town’s development. Nearby, the photogenic Ho Ann Temple (daily 7.30am–7.30pm; free) is dedicated to Mazu, the Goddess of the Sea. The current complex was reconstructed in 2010 after its predecessor burned down, but the temple has occupied the same spot since the late eighteenth century. A useful leaflet, Chinatown Heritage Trail, is available from the state tourist office.

The kris

The kris (or keris) occupies a treasured position in Malay culture, a symbol of manhood and honour believed to harbour protective spirits. Traditionally, all young men crossing the barrier of puberty receive one that remains with them for the rest of their lives, tucked into the folds of a sarong; for an enemy to relieve someone of a kris is tantamount to stripping him of his virility. In the past, some weapons were reputed to have magical powers, able to fly from their owners’ hand to seek out and kill an enemy.

The kris itself is intended to deliver a horizontal thrust rather than the more usual downward stab. When a sultan executed a treacherous subject, he did so by sliding a long kris through his windpipe, just above the collarbone, thereby inflicting a swift – though bloody – death. The distinguishing feature of the dagger is the hilt, shaped like the butt of a gun to facilitate a sure grip. The hilt can also be used to inflict a damaging blow to the head in combat, especially if there isn’t time to unsheathe the weapon.

The daggers can be highly decorative: the iron blade is often embellished with fingerprint patterns or the body of a snake, while the hilt can be made from ivory, wood or metal. Hilt designs usually take the form of birds’ heads.

Terengganu State Museum

Bukit Losong, 6km west of town centre • Mon–Thurs, Sat & Sun 9am–5pm, Fri 9am–noon & 3–5pm • RM15 • 09 632 1200, museum.terengganu.gov.my • Bas bandar service from city centre (C-02; 45min) or RM30 taxi ride (one way)

Arriving at the Terengganu State Museum, you might think you’ve strayed into Gulliver’s Travels. Visitors are confronted by a series of buildings modelled on the archetypal Terengganu village house, but absolutely Brobdingnagian in scale. Along with being Malaysia’s biggest state museum, the buildings also house one of the country’s best collections.

The ground floor of the main building holds exquisite fabrics from around Southeast Asia, while the next floor up displays various crafts. The top floor details the history of Terengganu. The Petronas Oil Gallery, in the building to the left, is sporadically interesting but predictably skewed. Behind it, the old-fashioned Islamic Gallery displays fine examples of Koranic calligraphy.

Allow time to see the rest of the site. Beside the river are two examples of the sailing boats for which Kuala Terengganu is famed – unique blends of European ships and Chinese junks. The small Seafaring Gallery and larger Fisheries and Marine Park Gallery are close by, as is a collection of smaller, beautifully decorated fishing boats. Five old timber buildings have been disassembled and reconstructed within the grounds. Among them, the Istana Tengku Long was originally built in 1888 entirely without nails, which to Malays signify death because of their use in coffins.

Boat-building on Duyong Island

Historically, the boatyards of Duyong Island produced schooners that ranged from humble fishing craft to the hulking perahu besar, up to 30m in length. These days however, motorized, modern alternatives to the old-fashioned wooden boats, the increasing cost of timber, and the lure of other careers have all contributed to a steep decline in this traditional industry. Salvation for the handful of boatyards that remain has come from overseas, as clients from around the world place orders for all manner of bespoke craft.

The shipwrights of Duyong Island use the pasat technique that uses neither metal nails nor set plans. For hulls, their preferred material is cengal, a wood whose toughness and imperviousness to termite attack make it prized not only for boats but also the best kampung houses. After the hull planking is fastened with strong hardwood pegs, a special sealant – derived from the bark of swampland trees, and resistant to rot – is applied. Unusually, the frame is fitted afterwards, giving the whole structure strength and flexibility. As construction takes place in dry docks, the finished boats have to be manoeuvred on rollers into the water, an effort that often requires local villagers to pitch in.

Duyong Island

Very sporadic water-taxis from moorings north of the Central Market; better to take a taxi (RM15)

The proud home of a venerable boat-building tradition, Duyong Island (Pulau Duyong or “Mermaid Island”) was once two islets in the Terengganu River; they were joined by reclamation to form what you see today. Although the northern end of Duyong was levelled to build a resort and a prestigious yacht club, the southeastern side of the island is essentially still a rustic kampung that’s great for an hour’s stroll.

If you want to visit one of the three surviving boatyards, ask around for directions or enquire at Awi’s Yellow House. One boatyard is owned by Awi, while several others are close to the Sultan Mahmud bridge on the island’s eastern shore.

Arrival and Departure: Kuala Terengganu

By plane The airport is 14km north of the city; a prepaid taxi into the centre costs RM30. MAS (09 662 6600, malaysiaairlines.com) and AirAsia (09 667 1017, airasia.com), both with offices at the airport, fly to KLIA, and Firefly (09 667 5377, fireflyz.com.my) operates 3 daily flights to the capital’s Subang airport.

By bus The spacious, modern bus station, smack in the centre on Jalan Masjid Abidin, is used by intercity and local buses.

Destinations Alor Setar (9.30pm daily; 9hr); Batu Pahat (3 daily; 8hr); Butterworth (9.30am & 9.30pm daily; 8hr 30min); Cherating (6 daily; 3hr 30min); Dungun (8 daily; 2hr); Johor Bahru (9 daily; 9hr); Kangar (9.30pm daily; 10hr); Kemaman/Chukai (7 daily; 2hr 30min); Kota Bharu (10 daily; 3hr 40min); Kuala Besut (8 daily; 3hr); Kuala Lumpur (30 daily; 6hr 30min); Kuantan (20 daily; 3hr 15min); Marang (hourly until 5pm; 30min); Melaka (4 daily; 7hr 30min); Merang (4 daily; 1hr); Mersing (5 daily; 6hr 30min); Muar (3 daily; 8hr); Pekan (3 daily; 4hr); Rantau Abang (8 daily; 1hr 30min); Segamat (4 daily; 6hr); Seremban (4 daily, 7hr); Singapore (9am & 9pm daily; 11hr 40min); Sungai Petani (9.30pm daily; 8hr 25min).

By taxi Long-distance taxis depart for destinations across the Peninsula from outside an office (06 626 5150) just south of the bus station. The fare to Kota Bharu is around RM180, and it’s RM160 to Kuantan.

By boat The Shahbandar jetty on the seafront is used by a few resort boats to Redang Island, with a public boat leaving at 9am and returning at 1pm (RM110).

Getting Around

By bas bandar Besides the city’s standard bus services, an hourly “heritage bus” (bas bandar) service runs a hop-on, hop-off route to the main attractions. There are two different routes, each starting at the main bus station before going on to destinations including the State Museum (C-02) and Noor Arfa (C-01). Enquire at tourist offices for schedules and fares.

By taxi Taxis are easily found near the bus station or around the Central Market; you’d be lucky to flag one down in the street.

By trishaw Trishaws can be found near the Central Market, charging around RM30–50/hr.

By car Car rental is available from booths in the airport arrivals hall (from RM120/day).

Information

Tourist information The state tourist office is next to the GPO on Jalan Sultan Zainal Abidin (Mon–Wed & Sun 8am–5pm, Thurs 8am–3pm; 09 622 1553, tourism.terengganu.gov.my). The Tourism Malaysia office is a little way south on Jalan Kampung Daik (Mon–Wed & Sun 8am–5pm, Thurs 8am–3.30pm; 09 630 9433). Ask at either about homestays in the city and its surroundings.

Travel agents Ping Anchorage Travel and Tours, 77a Jalan Sultan Sulaiman (daily 8.30am–7pm; 09 626 2020, pinganchorage.com.my), is efficient and well organized (if pricey), offering packages throughout the east coast and the interior. They also run the brilliant Terrapuri Heritage Village north of the city.

Accommodation

City Centre and Beach

Grand Continental Jalan Sultan Zainal Abidin 09 625 1888, ghihotels.com; map. The fanciest place in town when it opened in 1997, this chain hotel is showing its age despite recent renovations. However, the spacious rooms have marbled bathrooms and satellite TV, and there’s a gym, Western restaurant, pool and coffee shop. Breakfast included. RM269

KT Beach Resort 548e Jalan Sultan Zainal Abidin 09 631 5555, ktbeachresort.wordpress.com; map. This old-school hotel no longer enjoys a beachside position, thanks to ongoing land reclamation. The a/c rooms are squeaky clean if unexciting, and they also manage some surprisingly appealing, fully furnished apartments in the residential block across from the Tian Kee restaurant. Doubles RM95, apartments RM200

KT Mutiara 67 Jalan Sultan Ismail 09 622 2655; map. While some fittings look worn and dated, these are comfortable rooms for a decent price. Some have no windows, though at least they’re quieter. It also has a pleasant courtyard garden and discounts available midweek. RM78

Ming Paragon 219e Jalan Sultan Zainal Abidin 09 631 9966, mingstarhotel.com; map. The deluxe room (RM188) has a computer and complimentary minibar (no alcohol), but even the cheapest standard rooms have flat-screen TV, hairdryer, iron and kettle – all they’re missing is windows, for which you have to pay extra (RM168). Breakfast included, and there’s a spa. RM98

Primula Beach Resort Jalan Persinggahan 09 622 2100, primulahotels.com; map. Behind the ugly facade is a decent 246-room hotel complete with pool, gym and two restaurants with a grand marbled lobby with a sea view. The a/c rooms are spacious and well kept. while the “Superior” rooms on the ground floor of an older block have patio doors leading to the beach. Ample parking, and free shuttle into the centre. Breakfast included. RM285

Sentral 28 Jalan Tok Lam 09 622 0318, travel@redang.com.my; map. Part of the Redang Beach Resort group, this centrally located hotel has a range of bright, attractive, en-suite rooms at equally attractive prices. All fifty have a/c, though some lack windows. RM79

Suite 18 Boutique Hotel 71 Jalan Kampung Cina 09 631 2288, suite18boutiquehotel@gmail.com; map. The only accommodation in Chinatown, this converted 1890’s shop has retained some of its original features, with stylish and well-equipped (though small) en-suite, a/c rooms (most without windows), and three dorms. They also rent bikes (RM25/day) and there’s a pleasant garden out back. Dorms RM35, doubles RM118

Tanjong Vista 132d Jalan Sultan Zainal Abidin 09 631 9988, hoteltanjongvista.com.my; map. The logo and uniforms may be bright pink but the rooms in this business hotel are tastefully furnished and good value. The small semi-outdoor swimming pool on the fourth floor has views of the beach and sea; there’s also a small gym. Breakfast included. RM215

YT Midtown 30 Jalan Tok Lam 09 622 3088, hotelytmidtown.com.my; map. While this convenient central hotel is neither fancy nor flashy, it does stand out for its comfortable beds and reasonable prices. All rooms have big TVs, a/c and en suite, breakfast is included and there’s a car park. RM108

Duyong island

Awi’s Yellow House Duyong Island 017 984 0337; map. You’ll need to ask for directions to reach this delightful no-frills timber complex, which sits on stilts over the water. Accommodation is in thatched-roof huts with mosquito nets; some have private bathrooms. There’s also a kitchen, and kayaks (RM10/day) available to rent; Awi’s small boatyard is nearby. RM35

Eating and drinking

Terengganu’s signature dish, nasi dagang, consists of slightly sticky rice, steamed with a little coconut milk and chopped shallots, and often served with fish curry for breakfast. Other key dishes include laksam (rolled rice noodles in a thick fish and coconut milk gravy) and keropok – dried fish paste, served lekor (long and chewy), losong (steamed) or keping (crispy). There are a few decent Malay restaurants, and the Malay stalls at the Central Market, as well as just south of the junction of Jalan Sultan Ismail and Jalan Tok Lam, are worth trying. Chinatown is the obvious focus for Chinese food – especially after dark, when many other areas are quiet – with a hawker centre along Jalan Kampung Tiong 1 and several excellent restaurants on the main street. Chinatown is also your best bet for finding alcohol in this largely dry city.

Asia Signature Jalan Sultan Zainal Abidin 09 620 5421; map. This bright, airy café is handy if you find yourself east of the town centre. The menu ranges from chicken rendang to keropok (RM5.60–11.20) and dim sum (the salted egg buns, RM6.90, come recommended) and they also offer vegetarian versions of a few Malay classics, including a tasty nasi lemak (RM6.800) and a smattering of Western dishes (RM16–25). Daily noon–3pm & 6–9.30pm.

Golden Dragon Jalan Kampung Cina 09 622 3034; map. One of the most established and popular Chinese restaurants in Chinatown, with a great nasi campur at lunchtime (RM8–10), and reliable seafood (RM5–12/100g; try the steamed fish) and other stir-fried dishes (RM8–15) in the evening. Portions are substantial. Daily 9.30am–3pm & 6.15–9.30pm.

Madam Bee’s Kitchen 177 Jalan Kampung Cina 012 988 7495; map. Specializing in Terengganu Peranakan dishes, this is the place to come to try local Malay and Chinese dishes, including nasi kerabu (RM8.90) and Terengganu loh mee (egg noodles in thick gravy with chicken and crab; RM7.90). Very popular so expect to wait for a table at lunchtime. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 9.30am–5.30pm.

Star Anise 82 Jalan Kampung Cina 017 664 2368; map. Head to this funky café for excellent coffee, locally grown tea (from RM7), and a slice of cake (RM10). Outdoor seating on a quiet side street and plenty of decorative touches make this one of the nicest spots to take a break in Chinatown. Daily noon–midnight.

Vegan Recipe Jalan Kampung Cina 012 922 2332; map. Not a common sight in Malaysia, this fully vegan café does a good line in tasty and well-presented Malaysian and Chinese rice and noodle dishes (RM5.50–13.90) served in clean, modern surroundings. The rendang rice is particularly nice. Daily 8.30am–9.30pm.

Vinum Exchange 221 Jalan Kampung Cina 011 1697 1433; map. With one wall covered by racks of spirits, pork chops (RM20.20) on the menu and tinted glass in the windows, this bar feels downright subversive in straight-laced KT. Lavazza coffee (espresso RM5) and pastries are served in the daytime, but crowds congregate in the evening for beer and wine (from RM11.50). Daily 11am–11pm.

Shopping

Emporium Hock Kee Seng Jalan Sultan Zainal Abidin; map. Small shopping complex good for everyday purchases. Like the Store in Chinatown, this is more of a general emporium and supermarket. Daily 10am–10pm.

Noor Arfa Cendering Industrial Area, 7km south of the city 09 617 9700, noor-arfa.com.my; map. Large showroom with a more extensive choice of batik than the shops on Jalan Sultan Zainal Abidin, and occasional demonstrations. Take the bas bandar service to Cendering. Mon–Thurs & Sat 9am–7pm.

Arts and crafts workshops

Like neighbouring Kelantan, Terengganu is renowned for its handicrafts. At several places in and around the city, visitors can watch craftspeople at work and buy their products.

Abu Bakar bin Mohammed Amin 500m west of Jalan Panji Alam, 1406 Lorong Saga in Pasir Panjang 09 622 7968; map. Watch the making of the kris, a two-edged dagger, and its decorated wooden sheath. On S.P. Bumi local bus route; get off at Sekolah Kebangsaan Pasir Panjang. By appointment only.

Wanisma Craft Near junction of Jalan Sultan Zainal Abidin and Kampung Ladang Sekolah 019 622 3311, wanisma.com; map. Local artisans have long been known for their brassware, working in a “white brass” alloy unique to the state. Containing at least forty percent zinc, with added nickel to make it less yellow, white brass is used for decorative items such as candlesticks. They have a largish shop selling metalware and batik and at their nearby workshop you can watch craftsmen using the traditional “lost wax” technique to make brass objects. Mon–Thurs & Sun 10am–6pm.

Arrival and Departure: Tasik Kenyir

The jetty in the northeast of the lake, Pangkalan Gawi, can be reached by road and serves as the focal point for arrivals; a handful of tour operators have desks at the jetty and can arrange day-trips.

By bus No buses run to the lake from Kuala Terengganu, though there’s a service all the way from KL: the Tasik Kenyir Express (09 822 2176, tasikkenyir.com.my) leaves from Terminal Bersepadu Selatan bus station (daily 9am & 9pm; 6–7hr).

By taxi A taxi to the jetty costs around RM100 from Kuala Terengganu or RM120 from the airport.

Information

Tourist office At the Gawi jetty (daily 8am–5pm; 09 626 7788, kenyirlake.com). Staff can hand out leaflets and advice, but cannot book you onto any tours – for that, speak to the companies with desks at the jetty or go to Lake Kenyir Resort.

Tours Most accommodation and packages are set up for groups of over eight people; the best bet for independent travellers is on a one-day tour from Kuala Terengganu with Ping Anchorage; 6hr; RM295/person; min 2 people). Alternatively, if you’re staying at the lake, you can arrange one of the various one-day boat trips (usually 5hr 30min; RM120–600 for up to eight people) from Kenyir Natural Holidays (011 1996 6276, noraslinaabdulwahab@gmail.com) at the main jetty. Gawi-based local guide Kamarul (019 984 6012) can also help if you want something tailor-made.

Accommodation

A more economic option than the resort below is a homestay, which can be arranged through the tourist office or Kenyir Natural Holidays.

Lake Kenyir Resort 1.5km from Gawi Jetty 09 666 8888, lakekenyir.com. This elegant collection of buildings, with Terengganu-style pitched roofs, is the swankiest accommodation at Tasik Kenyir, and currently undergoing much-needed refurbishment, so the price given here is indicative only. Numerous tours and activities are available. ATM on site. RM350

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Marang

The coastal village of MARANG, 17km south of Kuala Terengganu and not to be confused with Merang further north, is only visited by tourists as the departure point for the delightful islands of Kapas and Gemia, just 6km offshore. The islands have no banks or ATMs, so this is your last chance to withdraw money – there are a couple of ATMs opposite the mosque and around 400m from the jetty, though note they often run out of money by the end of the weekend.

Arrival and Departure: Marang

By bus Local buses run between Kuala Terengganu and Marang roughly hourly until 5pm (30min). It’s also possible to reach Marang on the long-distance Kuantan–Kuala Terengganu buses that travel the coast road. To move on from Marang you can flag down a local bus, although southbound services go no further than Dungun or Kemaman. To catch an express bus further afield you’ll need to make arrangements in Kuala Terengganu.

By taxi Chartering a taxi between Kuala Terengganu and Marang costs around RM50.

By boat The two main boat operators for the trip to Kapas and Gemia islands, MGH (016 922 5454, pulaukapas.com) and Suria Link (019 983 9454), have their offices side by side at Marang’s jetty. Both offer the same deal – RM20 one way or RM40 return – and can book accommodation. Boats usually run every 2hrs from 9am–5pm, though cease from Nov–Jan when all the accommodation on Kapas is closed. Tell the boatman which resort you’re staying at and they’ll drop you on the nearest beach (you may have to wade a short distance), though it’s generally easiest just to get off at the main jetty.

Accommodation

Hotel Seri Malaysia 3964 Kampung Paya 09 618 2889, serimalaysia.com.my; map This modern block up a switchback driveway is Marang’s most upmarket accommodation but poor value, with neat, if bland, rooms and a tiny swimming pool. The higher floors have views across to Kapas Island. Breakfast included, wi-fi in lobby only. RM138

Marang Guest House Bukit Batu Merah, 1367 & 1368 Kampung Paya 09 618 1976; map. The rustic wooden cabins here are careworn but have pleasant porches and are a good choice if you’re on a tight budget. Its location at the top of the hill means it gets a nice sea breeze. Only a/c rooms have Western toilets (RM10 extra). RM60

Eating and drinking

Marang’s best waterside dining is at the Marang Waterfront, a basic food court opposite the main market, where a handful of stalls do a roaring trade in roti canai and nasi goreng until well into the evening.

Mak Su Yam Marang 017 9873141; map. Convenient for the jetty, at the top of a short flight of steps, this is a simple place with an inexpensive (RM6–7) nasi campur spread. Fine if you just want to fill up while waiting for transport. Mon–Thurs, Sat & Sun 7am–6pm.

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Kapas Island

Diminutive Kapas Island (Pulau Kapas), less than half an hour from Marang by speedboat, boasts arcs of sandy beach the colour of pale brown sugar, and aquamarine waters that visibly teem with fish. It’s a very appealing little island with a laidback charm, emphasized by the friendly approach of the best of the resorts. Just offshore, the even smaller Gemia Island (Pulau Gemia) is the site of just one resort. In theory it’s possible to visit Kapas as a day-trip, by catching an early boat out and returning late in the afternoon, but this means dealing with the midday heat – and besides, it’s really worth staying for at least a night or two.

The only season when things are not quite so idyllic is from June to August, particularly at the weekends, when the island can get pretty busy. The rest of the time it’s a great place to do very little for a few days; the one notable highlight in the slim social calendar is the annual Kapas–Marang swimathon in April. During the northeast monsoon the island basically closes down.

A couple of marked trails make it possible to hike to the undeveloped eastern side of Kapas, ending up at the pebbly (and sadly far from litter-free) Berakit Beach, where you can take a dip. The longer but more interesting route (1.5km) starts close to Kapas Turtle Valley, the shorter (1km) from behind Kapas Island Resort, running alongside a stream for most of the way. You can combine them to take a circular route; both include steep sections close to Berakit. Bring plenty of water and use insect repellent, and avoid being in the forest after 5pm when the mosquitoes come out in force. The paths can be very slippery after rain.

Snorkelling and Diving around Kapas Island

Snorkelling is of course a draw on Kapas; most places to stay can rent out gear (from RM15), or arrange a boat trip out to a choice site (from RM35). Visibility is best between May and August, but jellyfish can be a nuisance in June and July. Some of the most popular snorkelling spots are around rocky Gemia Island. If you’re just renting equipment then try the rocks at the edges of the beaches beyond Qimi Chalet and the campsite.

Diving isn’t generally considered to be as good as on the Perhentians or Redang, but there are opportunities for it, particularly on the eastern side of the island. Popular sites include Berakit Reef, Octopus Reef and Coral Garden. Blacktip reef sharks are regularly seen, and you can find turtles at Coral Garden and near Kapas Turtle Valley. There’s only one dive shop, Aqua Sport (014 508 2185, aquasportdiver.com.my), which offers PADI open water courses (RM1400) as well as regular dives (RM130).

Arrival and information: Kapas island

By boat Boats to Kapas leave from Marang, return boats to Marang run every couple of hours from 9.30am–5.30pm; inform your accommodation when you want to leave and they’ll arrange it for you.

Conservation fee As Kapas is a designated marine park, a conservation fee of RM5 applies for a stay of up to three days, though there isn’t always an official present to collect it.

Accommodation and Eating

For such a tiny island, Kapas has a surprising range of accommodation. Some mid-range places levy surcharges of twenty percent or more at weekends and during holidays, and all close down from November to February. Wi-fi is only available from the community wi-fi station by the jetty, which can reach up to 200m away.

Kapas island

Captain’s Longhouse Southwestern shore 012 377 0214; map. This rustic elevated longhouse of dark timber has seven decent fan rooms and a large, rather bohemian open dorm. All beds have mosquito nets and shared facilities. The driftwood beach-hut bar gives the impression that someone was shipwrecked here but made the best of it. Pretty over-priced but pretty cool. Dorm RM50, doubles RM100

Longsha Campsite Southwestern shore 017 965 2966; map. Located at the more laidback end of the beach, this campsite has a mess of two-person tents (mattresses RM10 extra), a kitchen for guests to use and copious amounts of hammocks overlooking the beach. There’s another, more isolated but similarly-priced campsite called Harmony Campsite on Long Beach. Both are popular with large student/youth groups. RM50

Kapas Beach Chalet (KBC) Western shore 012 288 2008; map. Decent A-frame chalets plus small dorms and more basic rooms in a long bungalow on the main site, as well as a/c rooms by their Lazy Islander Lounge restaurant next door; all are en suite. The restaurant is good and along with the Captain’s Longhouse, the best backpacker hangout on Kapas. Snorkelling equipment is free for guests. Dorms RM25, doubles RM50, chalets RM90

Kapas Island Resort Western shore 019 912 4557, kapasislandresort.com; map. Neat but badly-maintained Malay-style a/c bungalows, all en suite and with more character than most, set in an unkempt garden near the jetty. Western and Malay food is served in an airy but unpopular restaurant. A sea view will cost you RM70 extra and they also have an a/c dorm. Breakfast included. Dorm RM50, bungalows RM130

Kapas Turtle Valley Southwestern shore 013 354 3650, kapasturtlevalley.com; map. Marvellously low-key family resort, run by a Dutch couple and set on a secluded cove a short but steep walk from the western shore – boats from Marang can drop you off here. It has just eight chalets, including two for families (RM205), featuring four-poster beds and swish bathrooms; the Western menu in the restaurant is sophisticated if pricey, and includes a decent range of wines. There’s a two-night minimum stay, and booking is essential. Breakfast included. RM200

Pak Ya Sea View Chalet Western shore 019 960 3130; map. Seven tidy A-frames behind a low protective wall on the beach, all with double beds, fans, lino floors and small but clean bathrooms. The beach café is quite popular and serves the usual gamut of Malay rice/noodle dishes and local specialities. RM80

Qimi Private Bay Qimi Bay Beach 017 917 5744; map. Comfortable chalets ranged across a slope, the most expensive (RM350) with sea-facing balcony and open-air bathroom; the cheaper fan ones are nicely decorated but much more basic. The restaurant is quite pricdy and it can take a while for the food to arrive at your table on the sand, but it’s worth the wait – you’ll need to reserve by 4pm. RM100

Gemia Island

Gem Island Resort and Spa Southeastern tip 09 612 5110, gemisland.com.my; map. This quiet spot is the only resort on Gemia, with chalets on stilts; the cheapest are in a long block, with better views away from the restaurant. Turtles land to lay eggs and the resort is involved in their conservation; facilities include a spa, small swimming pool and restaurant. A surcharge of RM90 is applied at weekends and during school holidays. Two-night full-board package for two per night RM880

Eating

Each guesthouse has its own restaurant, but it’s worth seeking out Koko, the only standalone restaurant of note. The most popular backpacker places are the restaurant at Pak Ya Sea View Chalet and JT Café, right next to the jetty, both of which have good, reasonably priced local food, and a strong wi-fi signal.

Koko Western shore, Kapas; map. Serves up great local food in a breezy beachfront dining area – rice with veg, chicken, beef, squid or fish and a choice of sauces costs RM16–25. Very good, but a little expensive and dishes emerge very slowly from the kitchen. There’s also a bar. Daily 8am–10pm.

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Southern Terengganu

The stretch of southern Terengganu between Marang and the Pahang border offers fairly slim pickings for travellers. Pleasant beaches are the main draw, any of which make a good break during a drive along the coast road, though facilities at most amount to a mere straggle of food stalls.

Rantau Abang

Little more than a handful of guesthouses strung out along a dusty road 40km south of Marang, RANTAU ABANG used to reap a rich reward as one of a handful of places in the world where the giant leatherback turtle came to lay its eggs. No longer, thanks to overfishing, pollution and poaching – at the time of writing, the last officially recorded leatherback nesting was in 2010, though locals claim two or three a year still come. In the meantime, Rantau Abang has drifted into relative obscurity. It’s still a pleasant enough way station though, offering a beach with fine, though plastic strewn, sand and superb 180-degree views of blue-green sea.

Turtle Conservation and Information Centre

Mon–Thurs & Sun 8am–5pm • Free • 09 844 4169

The Turtle Conservation and Information Centre, or Hentian Penyu, holds informative, if dry, displays on turtle biology and conservation, plus a paddling pool full of hatchlings. If you want to spot nesting turtles, your best bets are elsewhere.

Arrival and Departure: Rantau Abang

By bus Buses stop on the main road close to the Turtle Conservation and Information Centre. Local services from Kuala Terengganu, Marang and Dungun pass through Rantau Abang every 30min–1hr (8am–6pm) and are most regular in the mornings.

By taxi Ask at your accommodation about long-distance taxis to Kuala Terengganu (RM70) or Dungun (RM40).

Accommodation and eating

The decline in tourism means that most places are now geared up for student groups and team-building sessions. The exception is the luxurious Tanjong Jara Resort, just south of Rantau Abang. Few accommodation options in Rantau Abang serve food other than for groups, but a handful of simple places to eat lie within walking distance.

Dahimah’s Guesthouse 1km south of information centre 017 955 8455, dahimahs@hotmail.com. Located between the main road and a pretty lagoon, and run by Dahimah – originally from the UK – and her Malay husband. Accommodation ranges from simple fan doubles to huge family rooms with TV, a/c and hot water (RM140). RM35

Tanjong Jara Resort 4km south of Rantau Abang 09 845 1100, tanjongjararesort.com. One of the priciest east coast resorts, a complex of timber pavilions and houses almost fit for a sultan. Traditional treatments are on offer in the spa, and there’s a diving and watersports centre. Activities range from waterfall treks and trips to Tasik Kenyir to cooking classes. RM880

Dungun to the Pahang border

Driving south from Dungun to the Pahang border takes you through the heartland of Terengganu’s oil industry, with refineries lining both side of Route 3 around the town of Paka. Most of the towns have little to detain tourists, but there are a few upmarket resorts along the coast.

Dungun

The backwater town of DUNGUN straggles for 9km along the coast south of Tanjong Jara. The bus station lies towards the northern end of town in a largely Chinese neighbourhood, with a handful of shophouses and a night market each Thursday. The only reason to stop here is because it’s a transport hub; there’s a taxi stand next to the bus station, with an ATM a few blocks north.

Tenggol Island

Further from the mainland than the popular islands further north, Tenggol Island (Pulau Tenggol; reached by boat from Dungun) is correspondingly less developed. While the few visitors who venture out here have to make do with rather run-down accommodation, there’s beautiful, unspoiled scenery and arguably the best diving and snorkelling on the east coast. It’s possible to arrange a diving trip from the mainland through Tanjong Jara resort.

Ma’Daerah Turtle Sanctuary

Kerteh, 12km south of Paka • 09 844 4169

Near the town of Kertih, on the road south of Paka, is the Ma’Daerah Turtle Sanctuary, with an information centre and hatchery on a quiet beach where green turtles lay their eggs. It’s possible to volunteer here during the May to September hatching season.

Kemaman and Chukai

The southernmost settlement of significance in Terengganu is the fusion of Kemaman and neighbouring Chukai. The town, home of a major port, holds little attraction for visitors, but its two bus stations (Geliga Bus Station for express buses, and the local bus station in town) are useful, and it has the closest banks and ATMs to Cherating.

Arrival and Departure: Dungun to the Pahang border

By plane Both Malindo Air and Malaysian Air have services between Kuala Lumpur and Kerteh (3 daily; 1hr).

By bus You may need to change at Dungun or Kemaman/Chukai if you are using local buses to travel the coast (7am–6pm roughly hourly).

By boat Speedboats run from Dungun to Tenggol Island (45min); transfers are normally included in accommodation packages.

Accommodation

The resorts along the coast are largely aimed at business travellers, so look for weekend discounts. Those on Tenggol are only open from February to November, and only when there are guests, so it is essential to book ahead.

Dungun

Pen’U Cottage Kompleks Perniagaan, Sura Gate 09 845 8333. Located 1.5km south of the bus station down a quiet side street towards the beach, this semi-homestay has small but clean rooms, all with a/c and bathrooms. There’s a kitchen available for guest use. RM80

Tenggol Island

Tenggol Coral Beach Resort Pulau Tenggol 012 784 7357, tenggol.com.my. Pleasant, spacious rooms are linked by sandy paths facing Teluk Air Tawar (“Freshwater Bay”) in the largest of Tenggol’s three resorts. Rates given here are per night on the basis of two people sharing a two-night all-inclusive snorkelling package; the diving equivalent, including five dives, costs around double. RM1130

< Back to The east coast

Cherating

At first it can be hard to discern the enduring appeal of CHERATING, a laidback village 45km north of Kuantan. Its heyday as a tourist destination is clearly over; for proof you only need to see the former tourist office – now a karaoke lounge – at one end of Cherating Lama (the old town), and the closed cultural centre at the other end. Many locals have long since moved out to the new settlement of Cherating Baru, 4km to the south. What’s more, the beach is pleasant but hardly the best on the coast – it’s best suited to windsurfing and kitesurfing (March to September), and surfing during the northeastern monsoon (October to December).

Nevertheless, at its best, Cherating Lama is still an appealing little travellers’ community, chilled out yet warm-spirited, a place to share quality time with old companions and – chances are – to end up with a whole bunch of new acquaintances too. Local entrepreneurs have devised an array of activities to keep tourists coming, and it’s well worth giving it a few days. Along the coast are a series of mid-range resorts that draw in families looking for a comfortable seaside break.

Cherating beach

No trip to Cherating would be complete without time spent on the beach. While the shelter of the bay ensures calm waters, jellyfish and currents are occasionally a problem, and it’s best to avoid swimming at low tide, when the sea recedes 100m or more. The headland obliterates any sunrise views, but in good weather it’s still worth taking a dawn stroll on the beach, when only a few fishing boats disturb the stillness.

Turtle sanctuary

3.5km east of Cherating village • Information centre Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • Free • 09 581 9087

Around the rocky headland at the eastern end of the bay sits Cherating’s turtle sanctuary (signed from Route 3 as Santuari Penyu). Once a handy place to watch green and Hoxby turtles nesting on the beach, the development at Club Med nearby has caused the turtles to nest further north at Kemaman’s Teluk Mak Nik Beach. Today the information centre has displays about the creatures, plus a few holding tanks at the back where you can see hatchlings and juveniles in season (May to September).

Arrival and Departure: Cherating

By express bus Express buses on the coast road between Kuala Terengganu and Kuantan drop passengers on request at both Cherating Lama and Cherating Baru. However, they won’t stop to pick up passengers, so reserve ahead for a seat from Geliga bus station near Chukai when you want to leave – taxis and local buses going north head there.

Destinations Ipoh (6.30pm daily; 7hr); Johor Bahru (4 daily; 6hr 30min); Kota Bharu (4 daily; 6hr); Kuala Besut (4 daily); Kuala Lumpur (14 daily; 4hr); Kuala Terengganu (6 daily; 5hr 30min); Kuantan (2 daily; 1hr–1hr 30min); Marang (6 daily; 2hr 30min); Melaka (2 daily; 5hr); Mersing (2 daily; 4hr); Rantau Abang (6 daily; 1hr 30min).

By local bus If you don’t have a reservation on an express bus, wait on the main road for one of the sporadic local services to Kuantan or Dungun (roughly hourly; 7am–6pm).

By taxi It’s possible to catch a taxi from Kuantan to Cherating (45 min; RM80), while one to the nearest ATM and the Geliga bus station at Chukai costs RM40 single or RM60 return.

TOUR OPERATORS AND GUIDES

Agencies along the main drag can book bus tickets and other travel arrangements, such as transfers to Taman Negara or islands off the east coast. All agencies and most guesthouses offer a range of tours, the selection and prices being similar wherever you go; night-time turtle-watching (RM60–70 including transport), firefly-watching (RM30–35; 1hr) and morning snorkelling trips to Snake Island (RM60–70; 2hr 30min) are the most popular options.

Hafiz Cherating River Activities Lot 1156, Cherating Lama 017 978 9256; map. A self-taught expert on fireflies, Hafiz has developed a method of attracting the insects. The effect, as seen on evening excursions, is magical, although the trips have become very busy; many other agencies book guests onto his trips. Snorkelling, fishing and kayak rental also available.

Pak Su Cherating Lama 013 906 4828. Licensed nature guide, Pak Su, specializes in taking people to see turtles nesting on Teluk Mak Nik Beach (RM60). He works extensively with the Fisheries Department, buying turtle eggs from locals to prevent them ending up in the market.

Activities in Cherating

During the northeast monsoon – and especially mid-October to early January, when the waves are good and the rain is not too bad – surfing is the big attraction in Cherating. Windsurfing and kitesurfing are possible throughout the year, weather allowing, while there’s also a range of activities and organized tours.

CRAFTS CLASSES

Limbong Art Cherating Lama 017 950 1281, umilimbong@gmail.com. Batik classes, in which you get your own designs onto T-shirts and sarongs. Classes take around two to six hours, depending on your project, and cost RM30–180. Daily 10am–10pm.

Surfing, Windsurfing and Kitesurfing

There are only a couple of dedicated watersports schools, though surfboards (RM50–70/day) and lessons (RM100–120) are available from many guesthouses and cafés, the best being Ombok or Cherating Beach Bar.

Cherating Point Between Mazna’s Guest House and Matahari 012 933 7590, cheratingpoint.com. Surfboard rental (RM70/day) and lessons (90min plus 90min board rental after; from RM120), plus beginners’ packages (including accommodation) from RM589. Daily Nov–June.

Kam’s Surf Shack On the beach 017 362 4839. Surfing lessons in season; windsurfing and kitesurfing lessons, and equipment rental are available year-round. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 9am–9pm.

Accommodation

The best places to stay are those by the river or towards the southern end of the beach as they have the best vibe, with the northern end of the beach now marred by the enormously expensive Royale Chulan Cherating resort, which has somewhat blotted the landscape. Prices can drop by up to twenty percent on weekdays (weekend prices shown below), with further discounts available during the northeast monsoon.

Cherating Lama

Cherating Bay View Cherating Lama 09 581 9248, cheratingbayviewresort.com; map. At the quieter end of the bay, this complex has a range of a/c chalets, the cheapest of them around a greenish swimming pool. While the standard seafront chalets lack the modern fixtures and fittings of the deluxe options, they actually have better sea views. RM106

Matahari Cherating Lama 017 924 7465; map. A mishmash of units, from spartan A-frames to larger chalets, all arranged around a pleasant grassy area. Toilets and showers are in a separate block; while a few rooms have private bathrooms (RM50), only one has a/c (RM120). There’s a communal kitchen. RM30

Maznah’s Guest House Cherating Lama 09 581 9307, maznahguesthouse.blogspot.com; map. Lovely family-run place with basic A-frames that share facilities, but you can hardly complain for the price. The spotless en-suite chalets are also good value, but the a/c ones are overpriced (RM150). Price includes breakfast and all day hot drinks. A-frames RM35, chalets RM50

Payung Guesthouse Cherating Lama 019 917 1934, payung-guesthouse.com; map. A deservedly popular collection of ten no-frills chalets set in a small, very tidy garden, with a jetty at the back overlooking the river. All are en suite, with fan and mosquito net; most have double beds. Family-run and friendly, they also organize good-value trips, book buses and rent bikes (RM20/day). They are connected to the Payung Campsite, peacefully located between the middle of the beach and the river, which rents two-person tents for RM20 (mattress RM5 extra). RM60

Ranting Beach Resort Cherating Lama 09 581 9068; map. Spacious, well-kept garden rooms, plus pricier beach chalets; good views compensate for the generally uninspiring decor – some have breezy verandas. All options are en suite, some with a/c and TV. Doubles RM140, chalets RM200

Residence Inn Cherating Lama 09 581 9333 ric.my; map. If you prefer resort-style accommodation but want to stay in Cherating Lama, then this complex of 138 tidy en-suite rooms is the place to come. The more expensive rooms in the old block are arranged around a children’s swimming pool while the cheaper ones in the new block are quieter. Breakfast included. RM260

Tanjung Inn Cherating Lama 09 581 9081, tanjunginn.com; map. Timber-built en-suite accommodation, ranging from tents and simple fan chalets to brilliant traditionally styled kampung houses boasting a/c, four-poster beds and slate-tiled bathrooms with hot, which are set around two large ponds in a peaceful, pretty garden. The more basic fan rooms overlook the beach, and the glamping site is on the lagoon behind. Tents RM70, chalets RM106, kampung houses RM180

Cherating Baru

Eastern Pavilion Cherating Baru 09 581 9500, easternpavilion.com; map. Twelve luxurious villas in traditional kampung houses from different Malaysian states. All have one or two beautifully appointed bedrooms, lounge and private outdoor jacuzzis; there’s also a spa. This rate is for the cheapest turtle watching package, which includes breakfast. RM528

Marine turtles

While four types of marine turtle lay their eggs on Malaysia’s east coast, for years the sight of the largest – the giant, critically endangered leatherback turtle – was the star attraction, drawing visitors to Rantau Abang in Terengganu. In fact all other kinds of marine turtle – green (nesting sites include the Perhentians, Redang Island, Cherating, Penarik and the Turtle Islands National Park in Sabah), hawksbill (Redang Island, Turtle Islands National Park, Tioman Island and Padang Kemunting near Melaka), olive ridley (rarely seen), and Kemp’s ridley and loggerhead (neither of which nest in Malaysia) – are also at risk.

Harmful fishing methods, such as the use of trawl nets, kill thousands of marine turtles each year, and help explain the dramatic reduction in leatherbacks nesting on the Terengganu coast. In 1956, more than ten thousand were recorded; in 2000, just three; in 2002, there were no sightings of leatherbacks in Rantau Abang for the first time since records began; by 2005, leatherback, hawksbill and olive ridley statistics in Terengganu were all at zero, and green turtle figures were significantly down. On therare occasions when a leatherback turns up – there was a lone turtle in 2010 – their eggs often fail to hatch. This is probably because of the increasing rarity of male–female turtle encounters.

With a very meagre survival rate among hatchlings under ordinary conditions, any human pressure on turtle populations has drastic consequences for their survival. For the Chinese in Malaysia and Singapore, turtle soup is a classic delicacy, and while Malays eschew turtle meat, they do consume turtle eggs, which look like ping-pong balls and are sold at markets throughout the east coast. Their collection is licensed at certain sites, but there’s no guarantee that anything on sale was collected legally. There appears to be no political will to outlaw this traditional food, a sad irony given Malaysia’s general turtle conservation efforts: in many places, hatcheries pay licensed collectors for eggs rather than see them go to markets. At least the deliberate slaughter of turtles for their shells, once fashioned into bowls and earrings, has been banned since 1992.

Turtle spotting and conservation

Nowadays, humans are excluded from various designated sanctuaries for nesting turtles. At these sites the eggs are dug up immediately after the turtle has laid them and reburied in sealed-off hatcheries on the beach. Burying the eggs in sand of the correct temperature is crucial as warm sand produces more females, while cooler sand favours males. When the hatchlings emerge, they are released at the top of the beach and their scurry to the sea is supervised to ensure their safe progress.

There are several officially sanctioned opportunities to watch nesting turtles on the east coast beaches and islands, including at Cherating, Perhentian Besar and Tioman Island (at Juara Beach). It is also possible to volunteer at turtle sites such as Ma’Daerah. Be sure to avoid “turtle releasing” activities, however.

Eating and drinking

Cherating Lama has a string of inexpensive restaurants, many emphasizing seafood including the lala – a sort of clam, which turns up in various sauces – but a couple of places also offer decent Western food. Kedai kopis across from the Payung Guesthouse serve reasonable Malay cuisine, with roti canai in the morning and nasi campur later in the day.

Don’t Tell Mama Cherating Lama 019 996 1723; map. Open year-round, the beachside Don’t Tell Mama is a great place to chill out with a beer (from RM10) and one of their excellent giant cheeseburgers (RM25), enjoying the relaxed playlist from a hammock/lounge chair or while playing with the dogs. The other, mostly Western dishes (RM6–20), such as pasta, are also good. Food served until 10pm. Mon & Wed–Sun 6pm–1am.

Duyong Cherating Lama 09 581 9578; map. A popular old faithful, this large, airy place overlooking the river offers excellent Chinese and Thai dishes (RM6–20), plus a few Western standbys such as lamb chop (RM20) and steak (RM25). Veggie dishes can be cooked to order. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11am–11pm.

Kam’s Surf Shack Cherating Lama 017 362 4839; map. Owned by a pair of local brothers, this simple, open-sided beach bar serves up cold beer (RM12), simple Western and Malay food (RM6–20), a constant stream of reggae, and watersports lessons. Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 6am–midnight.

Cherating Beach Bar Cherating Lama 017 674 7015; map. In a great spot in the middle of the beach, this atmospheric bar built partly from driftwood – often called Mazlan’s after the very laidback owner – serves up cold beer (from RM10), cocktails (from RM15) and simple snacks, though you’re also welcome to make use of the barbecue. Daily noon–late.

Mok Bedah Cherating Lama 019 907 3842; map. If you’re after an authentic local breakfast, try this family-run place, serving a great nasi campur spread from a horseshoe-shaped counter, using nasi dadang (rice with coconut) or nasi minyak (heavily spiced rice mixed with yoghurt), all for RM7–8. Daily 7–10am.

Nabill Café Cherating Lama 019 985 3302; map. Locals come here for their great ikan bakar (prices start from RM5.50/100g), but if they’ve run out of fresh fish you can choose from a range of Chinese, Malay, Thai and Western dishes, including a long list of rice- and noodle-based standards (all RM4–12). Daily 6pm–1am.

Ombok Surf Café Cherating Lama 09 581 9274; map. Run by ecologically-minded Malaysian surfers, this very hip and funkily-decorated café serves up a mix of local and Western food, including satisfying breakfasts, pasta and sandwiches (all RM7–18) as well as espresso coffees and smoothies (RM6–12). They also can arrange surf boards and lessons, and have a small gallery, with evening musical jam sessions during high season. April–Nov daily 9am–5pm; Dec–March 8.30am–9.30pm or later.

< Back to The east coast

Kuantan

The state capital of Pahang since 1955, KUANTAN is an undistinguished agglomeration of concrete buildings around an older core of shophouses close to the Kuantan River. While there’s very little by way of historical or cultural interest in the city itself, Kuantan can be a breath of fresh air after a sojourn in Kelantan or Terengganu – it’s closer in feel to the west coast cities than to Kuala Terengganu or Kota Bharu. If you’re arriving from elsewhere in the country, however, Kuantan can seem mundane. With the creation of the East Coast Highway to Pelabuhan Kuantan, the port 40km north of the city, it’s easy to bypass Kuantan altogether if you’re travelling between KL and the east coast.

If Kuantan has a focus of sorts, it’s the padang. The city’s oldest streets, between there and the river, hold quite a few hotels and restaurants. The best reason to hang around for a night or two, though, is to take a day-trip to the cave temple of Gua Charas or the royal town of Pekan.

Masjid Negeri

Northeastern edge of the padang • Mon–Thurs, Sat & Sun 10am–noon, 3–4pm & 5.30–6pm • Free

The town’s main sight, the Masjid Negeri, was built in 1991, with a pastel exterior like a piece of fine Wedgewood – green for Islam, blue for peace and white for purity. It’s distinctly Turkish in appearance, thanks to the pencil minarets at all four corners of the sturdy square prayer hall, topped with a looming central dome. Non-Muslims can visit outside of prayer times: men should wear long trousers, while women are advised to cover their hair and dress modestly.

Pahang Arts Museum

Northeastern edge of the padang • Mon–Fri 9am–5pm • Free

Housed in a lovely old British colonial administration building from 1910, the new Pahang Arts Museum features six galleries of Islamic art and calligraphy, traditional east coast crafts such as shadow puppets, and musical instruments. It also has a gallery of abstract art, in addition to four abstract sculptures in the gardens depicting raja sariman (a Malaysian martial art), which are full of energy and movement. Temporary exhibits of international and local artists are also hosted here, and there are historic photos of the local people throughout.

Esplanade

Boat trips depart Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 11am, 1pm, 3pm & 6pm, 8pm night cruises by advance booking only • RM38 • 011 2575 8033

Down by the river, starting at the Megaview Hotel, an esplanade clings to the banks of the Kuantan River. Early evening is a good time to take a stroll, to see fishing boats returning with the day’s catch and perhaps the occasional red eagle swooping on its prey. A small night market sets up here each evening (6–10pm) and boat trips depart from the jetty at the southwest end of the promenade.

Teluk Chempedak

5km east of centre following Jalan Besar, which becomes Jalan Teluk Sisek then Jalan Teluk Chempedak • Bus #200 from local bus station (daily 6am–11pm every 20–30min; 30min); taxis RM25

Around the corner from a wooded headland, on an east-facing stretch of coast, Teluk Chempedak has long been a popular evening and weekend hangout for families and young people. The sands of the bay are encouragingly white, although undertows can render the sea off-limits (watch out for red flags). There is an appealing liveliness about the place, quite at variance from the langourous mood on the otherwise better sands of rural Terengganu. Bars, fast-food chains and restaurants line the main road as you arrive, before you reach the Hyatt, and there are more places to eat on the promenade.

Arrival and Departure: Kuantan

By plane Sultan Ahmad Shah airport is 15km west of town, 20min (RM35) by taxi. KL flights (3 daily; 45min) are operated by MAS (09 538 5430); Singapore flights (daily; 1hr) are with Firefly (09 538 2911).

By express bus Express buses depart from the lower level of Kuantan’s modern Terminal Sentral bus station, 7.5km northwest of downtown Kuantan. It’s a RM20 taxi ride, or you can take the #303 bus.

Destinations Alor Setar (3 daily; 10hr); Butterworth (6 daily; 9hr); Dungun via Cherating (9 daily; 2hr); Ipoh (4 daily; 6hr); Jerantut (4 daily; 3hr); Johor Bahru (31 daily; 5hr 30min); Kota Bharu (13 daily; 6hr); Kuala Lipis (2 daily; 6hr); Kuala Lumpur (every 30min–1hr; 4–5hr); Kuala Terengganu (14 daily; 4–5hr); Melaka (3 daily; 4hr); Mersing (7 daily; 2-3hr); Seremban (10 daily; 6–7hr); Singapore (4 daily; 6hr 30min).

By local bus The local bus station is on Jalan Stadium, with regular #303 buses to the Terminal Sentral bus station (every 20–30min), Pekan, Sungai Lembing and Teluk Chempedak.

By taxi Local taxis can be found near the mosque; long-distance taxis arrive and depart from Terminal Sentral. Call 09 572 9892 to book.

By car For car rental, Avis (09 539 8768, avis.com), Hertz (09 538 4848, simedarbycarrental.com) and Mayflower (09 538 4490, mayflowercarrental.com.my) are all at the airport.

Information

Tourist offices Tourism Pahang, the state tourism office (Mon–Thurs 9am–1pm & 2–5pm, Fri 9am–1pm & 2.45pm–5pm; 09 568 1623, pahangtourism.org.my), is at 33 ICT Hub, Jalan Putra Square 4, just south of the East Coast Mall, with the Tourism Malaysia office just a few doors north (Mon–Thurs 8am–1pm & 2–5pm, Fri 8am–12.15pm & 2.45–5pm; 09 567 7112).

Accommodation

There’s no shortage of places to stay in Kuantan, and you can also stay out of town at Teluk Chempedak or pleasant Balok Beach. For details of homestays, pick up the well-produced Homestay Pahang booklet from the state tourist office or visit go2homestay.com.

Central Kuantan

Grand Darul Makmur Hotel Lorong Gambut, off Jalan Beserah 09 511 8888, gdmhotel.com.my; map. This slick, central four-star hotel offers spacious rooms, several food outlets, a fitness centre and a pool complete with waterfall. The upper rooms in the twelve-storey Tower Block also provide great views. Breakfast included. RM290

Makmur Guesthouse Jalan Pasar Baru 09 514 1363; map. The best of the cheapies close to the bus station, although that isn’t saying a lot; fan rooms with shared facilities as well as a/c en-suite rooms (RM50), all simple and fairly shabby. RM30

Mista Reggae House Jalan Mahkota 016 922 2864; map. A decent backpacker option near the main mosque, this funky café has some of the cheapest beds around in their twelve-person dorm upstairs, as well as a few cheap fan rooms. The café has decent Western food, there’s a rooftop chill-out area, and they also rent bikes (RM10/day), as well as organize tours. Dorm RM15, doubles RM30

Orchid Jalan Merdeka 09 515 5570; map. Despite the unpromising steps up to reception, the rooms in this quirky backstreet Chinese hotel – while in need of a lick of paint – are decent for the price and come with a/c. RM45

Seasons View A22 Lorong Haji Abdul Rahman 1 09 516 2828, seasonsview-kuantan.com; map. A self-proclaimed “oasis of gracious hospitality”, the rooms here are not exactly luxurious but they’re immaculate and easy to recommend for the price, though a window and breakfast both cost RM10 extra. RM88

Teluk Chempedak

Hyatt Regency 09 518 1234, kuantan.regency.hyatt.com; map. A long-established (though recently refurbished) beach retreat for well-heeled folk from KL and Singapore, with two swimming pools, a gym, tennis and squash courts, childcare facilities, multiple restaurants and a bar in a converted ship. Breakfast included. RM435

Balok Beach

Some 15km north of Kuantan, Balok Beach can be reached by taxi (around RM30) or on the #600 bus from the local bus station (45min).

Swiss Garden Resort 09 548 8288, swissgarden.com; map. Balconied rooms overlooking a landscaped garden or the South China Sea, plus a free-form swimming pool, spa and several restaurants. A large range of activity packages are available for adults and children. Prices rise by around RM70–100 on weekends. RM290

Eating and drinking

Laidback kedai kopis dot the streets west and south of the padang, while the area around Berjaya Megamall is packed with cafés and mamak joints. For inexpensive Malay food, try the places on and around the northern end of Jalan Haji Abdul Aziz or the area around the Central Market. International chain restaurants can be found at the East Coast Mall. Teluk Chempedak also holds plenty of eating choices, including many on the seafront, some open until as late as 2am. The nightlife in Teluk Chempedak is more lively than that in town, revolving around a handful of bars on the main road just before the beach.

Central Kuantan

Akob Patin House Lorong Tun Ismail 019 987 4463; map. The signature ingredient at this humble place is patin (silver catfish), served at lunchtime as ikan patin tempoyak (RM20/30) – with chilli, tamarind and fermented durian – it’s surprisingly tasty. Mon–Sat 8am–5pm.

Bombay Hamid Bros Jalan Teluk Sisek 09 513 1945; map. Outstanding Indian food in a stylish a/c interior, serving very tasty banana leaf thalis (RM7–14.50) either side of midday, and various Indian snacks (RM1.05–5) and their highly-recommended biriyanis (RM6.50–30) at other times. Daily 7am–10pm.

Chan Poh 52 Jalan Bukit Ubi; map. A good place for inexpensive dim sum, this earthy, no-frills place has a wide range of plates on display (RM3–6) for you to choose from, which are then steamed for you. Beer from RM8. Daily 6am–midnight.

Jelita Jalan Haji Abdul Aziz; map. Essentially a posh-looking metal hangar housing several food outlets, the star attraction among which is a branch of Satay Zul, Kuantan’s best-loved satay house (daily 5–11pm), offering beef, chicken, kambing (goat), rusa (venison) and even perut (stomach) at around 90sen to RM1.50 a stick. Other stalls offer rice, noodles and doner kebabs. Mon–Sat 7.30am–midnight.

Lila Wadi Barbecue Jalan Teluk Sisek 012 664 4054, lilawadi.com.my; map. This great spot serves Japanese-style barbecue that’s self-cooked cooked at your table; you choose a main ingredient – beef, chicken or seafood – and receive a “set” (minimum two people; RM35–40) that includes side dishes. Leave space for a slice of their excellent cheesecake, which is so popular that Lila Wadi has opened a spin-off cake shop, Kula Cakes, on Jalan Taman. Tues–Thurs 12.30–3pm & 5–11.30pm, Fri–Sun 4pm–midnight.

Sara Thai Kitchen Jalan Gambut 012 937 9322; map. Thai food seems to be particularly popular in Kuantan, and this busy restaurant – part of a small chain with another branch on Jalan Besar – is one of several places specializing in dishes like green curry, tom yam (RM7–8 for a small bowl) and mango salad. Daily 1–11pm.

Tjantek Art Bistro 46 Jalan Besar 09 516 4144, tjantek.blogspot.com; map. With soft lighting, chilled music and vintage artwork plastering the walls, this is one of Kuantan’s most atmospheric dining spots. The pasta dishes are great, as are the sandwiches and salads (all RM15–20) and the steak (RM40). There’s no alcohol, but locals head here for their fresh juices and punches. Mon–Sat 5pm–1am.

Ye Mi Won 236 Jalan Teluk Sisek; map. A little way out of the centre, this traditional Korean family-run restaurant is as good as you’ll find anywhere, laying out an excellent spread of homemade banchan (side dishes) and kimchi with the barbecued samgyeopsal (pork belly), bulgogogi (marinated beef) and galbi sal (beef ribs). It’ not cheap, however, with a meal for two coming in at around RM100 with drinks; the soups are slightly cheaper at around RM25–35, and there are lunch sets for RM17–25. Daily 11am–10pm.

Teluk Chempedak

Country Ranch Pub 41 Teluk Chempedak 09 560 5717; map. If you’re a fan of English football you’ll certainly find a talking point here – it’s been owned by a string of Liverpool supporters. More of a straightforward pub than some of its neighbours, with a free pool, sport on the TV, occasional live music, and no karaoke. Daily 5pm–midnight.

Arrival and Information: Pekan

By bus Cream-coloured rapid Kuantan bus #400 departs every 20-30min from Kuantan’s local bus station for the hour-long journey to Pekan. If your main interest is the palaces, ask to be let off at the “Daulat Tuanku” arch on Jalan Sultan Abu Bakar, before the UFO-like water tower. Pekan’s own bus station is in the modern centre, east of the padang. You’ll need to head to Kuantan for most long-distance destinations.

Destinations Kota Bharu via Kuala Terengganu (4 daily; 7hr); Kuantan (every 20–30min; 50min); Johor Bharu (5 daily; 5hr 10min).

By taxi Taxis (09 422 2211) depart from close to the bus station, with fixed fares to Kuantan (RM60), Tasik Chini (RM80) and other destinations.

Accommodation and eating

The streets around the padang hold several places to eat, including a small row of stalls selling juice and snacks, with parasols providing a welcome break from the sun.

Chief’s Rest House Jalan Istana Permai 09 422 6941; map. Occupying a spacious 1929 timber bungalow, and not unlike some of the istanas, this resthouse has nine high-ceilinged rooms, some with four-poster beds and bamboo blinds, with a/c and TV, as well as a dorm. Booking is essential; it’s a popular place, in a town with few alternatives. Dorm RM30, doubles RM55

Farouk Maju 1 Jalan Engku Muda Mansor; map. As well as a decent nasi campur spread (RM7–10), this typical mamak restaurant serves tasty and cheap biriyani (RM9–9.50), curries (RM4.50–9) and various Indian snacks such as roti, poori, dosa and naan (RM1–2.80) to a constant stream of locals. Daily 24hr.

< Back to The east coast

The east coast in the off-season

Around Padang Merdeka

Istana Jahar

Istana Batu

Kampung Kraftangan

The Markets of Kota Bharu

Handicraft Museum

Masjid Negeri

War Memorial Museum

State Museum

The performing arts in Kelantan

Craft workshops

K.B. Permai

Pak Yusoff workshop

Buddhist temples

Wat Pracacinaram

Wat Phothivihan

Wat Machimmaram

Wat Mai Suwankiri

Suri Island

Arrival and Departure: Kota Bharu

By PLANE

By train

By bus

By TAXI OR MINIVAN

To Thailand

Getting around

Information and tours

Accommodation

Hotels

Guesthouses

Homestays

Eating

SHOPPING

Directory

Kuala Besut

Arrival and Departure: Kuala Besut

Accommodation and eating

Arrival and Departure: The perhentian Islands

Getting around

accommodation

Perhentian Kecil

Long Beach

Coral Bay and the west coast

Perhentians dos and don’ts

Snorkelling and diving around the Perhentians

Recommended dive shops

Accommodation: Perhentian Kecil

Long Beach

Coral Bay

The rest of the island

Eating and drinking

Long beach

Coral Bay

Perhentian Besar

Western shore

Flora Bay and the south coast

Three Coves Bay

Accommodation: Perhentian Besar

Western shore

Flora Bay and the South Coast

Eating and drinking

Setiu Wetlands

Pewanis

Arrival and Departure: Setiu Wetlands

Accommodation and Eating

Merang

Arrival and Departure: Merang

Accommodation and Eating

Snorkelling and diving

Arrival and Departure: Redang Island

Accommodation

Pasir Panjang/Shark Bay

TELUK KALONG

Flora Bay

Arrival and Departure: Lang Tengah island

Accommodation

Old town

Bukit Puteri

Central Market