Singapore is certainly the handiest city I ever saw, as well planned and carefully executed as though built entirely by one man. It is like a big desk, full of drawers and pigeon-holes, where everything has its place, and can always be found in it.
William Hornaday, 1885
Despite the immense changes wrought upon the tiny island of Singapore, natural historian William Hornaday’s appraisal is as valid today as it was in 1885. This absorbing city-state, just one degree north of the Equator and only 720 square kilometres in size – if all the outlying islands are included – has evolved from a colonial port into a slick shrine to wealth and consumerism.
Singapore’s rise began in 1819, when Sir Stamford Raffles took advantage of its natural harbour and strategic position on the maritime route between China and India to set up a British trading post. The port thrived from the word go, and remains one of the world’s busiest. The country’s coffers were boosted by industrialization following independence, and when in the 1980s Singapore grew too successful to remain a cheap sweatshop for multinationals, it maintained its competitive edge by developing a super-efficient infrastructure and work ethic, and diversifying into technology and finance.
Lacking any significant welfare system, Singapore appears to be a paragon of capitalism. Yet much of the economy is dominated by conglomerates set up by the state, which retains a controlling interest. Regulations govern everything from flushing public toilets after use to jaywalking, and, less benignly, there’s a low tolerance of dissent.
This unwritten, paternalistic contract underlies what visitors see today: kampungs and slums have long been cleared, with people resettled in bland though well-planned new towns. Even today the island is dogged by a sense of impermanence, its buildings scarcely bedding down before being replaced by something even grander. But while Singapore is the most westernized of Southeast Asia’s cities, it would be unfair to dismiss it as sterile. As with Malaysia, much of Singapore’s fascination springs from its multicultural population, the main groups being the Chinese (around 75 percent), Malays (13 percent) and Indians (9 percent). This diversity can turn a short walk across town into what seems like a hop from one country to another.
Getting a decent taste of the island requires at least three days. Old Singapore is looking better than ever thanks to belated conservation work, and each of the original ethnic enclaves boasts neatly restored shophouses and its own distinct flavour: Little India has its garland-sellers and curry houses, Chinatown its calligraphers and fortune-tellers, while Arab Street is home to cluttered stores selling fine cloths and curios. At the core of downtown Singapore are historic public buildings and the lofty cathedral of the Colonial District. It also has a clutch of fine museums, something rarely on offer in Malaysia; the Chinatown Heritage Centre evokes the harsh conditions endured by Chinatown’s earlier inhabitants, while the Peranakan Museum and Baba House celebrate Singapore’s Baba-Nyonya community – just as important as that of Penang and Melaka.
There’s much to enjoy by way of modern and, perhaps surprisingly, nature-oriented attractions too. The wings of reclaimed land at the mouth of the Singapore River, together forming Marina Bay, hold the striking Marina Bay Sands hotel and casino and the bug-eyed Theatres on the Bay. Huge investment in the arts means that even on a short visit, you may well catch world-renowned performers in town. North of the city, there’s primary rainforest to explore at Bukit Timah Nature Reserve and the splendid Singapore Zoo, which you can even tour at night. The best offshore day-trip is south to Sentosa, the island amusement arcade that features Singapore’s other casino resort.
The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple
Highlights
1 National Gallery Singapore’s National Gallery is certainly an architectural showpiece, uniting two of the island’s grandest colonial buildings.
2 Little India Old Singapore’s most atmospheric district is a sensory overload of Tamil temples, colourful saris and aromatic spice-grinding shops.
3 The Buddha Tooth Relic Temple One of the island’s newest temples is also one of its grandest, housing thousands of Buddha figurines, a sacred tooth and even its own Buddhist art museum.
4 Baba House Singapore’s answer to the fine showpiece Peranakan residences of Melaka and Penang.
5 The Botanic Gardens This distinguished park boasts an immaculate orchid collection and forest walks.
6 Bukit Timah Nature Reserve A pocket of primary rainforest for a decent taste of the jungle, minus leeches.
7 S.E.A. Aquarium This gargantuan affair revels in the marine life of Southeast Asia’s far-reaching maritime trade routes.
8 Food Hundreds of restaurants serve up every style of Chinese cuisine, sophisticated fusion fare and more.
9 The arts scene Get a taste of the best cultural life in the region, with international perfomers constantly passing through.