Dreaming of Spring Fingerless Gloves
Nesting Squares Baby Blanket / Play Mat
I have always loved berets; they are the perfect hat for wearing indoors since they are so elegant, or outdoors to keep you warm (without squishing your hair!). This simple pattern is worked from the brim up. The decreases are not visible, freeing you to play with any color and textural changes without worrying about how they will coordinate with shaping lines. The pattern is written for two gauges, 26 stitches and 36 rounds to 4 inches, and 24 stitches and 30 rounds to 4 inches, so it will work for a lot of different yarns.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
18 ½" circumference, unstretched 24" circumference, stretched
NOTIONS
Stitch marker
Sport Weight
YARN
Lobster Pot Yarns 2-Ply Cashmere (100% cashmere; 400 yards / 50 grams): 1 hank Chatham Light or Drawn Butter.
Note: When working with this yarn, use 2 strands of yarn held together.
Farmhouse Yarns Fannie’s Fingering (80% merino / 20% nylon; 400 yards / 4 ounces): 1 hank Toffee
Alchemy Yarns of Transformation Haiku (60% kid mohair / 40% silk; 325 yards / 25 grams): 1 hank Michelle’s Marigold worked with Hand Jive Nature’s Palette Plant-Dyed Merino Fingering Yarn (100% merino wool; 185 yards / 50 grams): 1 hank Lilac. Note: Use 1 strand of each of these yarns held together.
NEEDLES
One 16" (40 cm) long circular (circ) needle size US 1 (2.25 mm)
One 16" (40 cm) long circular needle size US 3 (3.25 mm)
One set of five double-pointed needles (dpn) size US 3 (3.25 mm)
Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
GAUGE
26 sts and 36 rnds = 4" (10 cm) in Stockinette stitch (St st) (knit every rnd), using larger needle
DK Weight
YARN
Joseph Galler Belangor (100% angora; 33 yards / 10 grams): 5 balls #868 Canary
ShibuiKnits Merino Worsted (100% merino wool; 191 yards / 100 grams): 1 hank Bark
Manos del Uruguay Silk Blend (70% merino wool / 30% silk; 150 yards / 50 grams): 1 hank each #3044 Briar (outside edge) and #3071 Wisteria (center)
NEEDLES
One 16" (40 cm) long circular (circ) needle size US 3 (3.25 mm)
One 16" (40 cm) long circular needle size US 5 (3.75 mm)
One set of five double-pointed needles (dpn) size US 5 (3.75 mm)
Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
GAUGE
24 sts and 30 rnds = 4" (10 cm) in Stockinette stitch (St st) (knit every rnd), using larger needle
STITCH PATTERN
1x1 Rib (multiple of 2 sts; 1-rnd repeat)
All Rnds: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end.
NOTES
Instructions for the Sport Weight version are given first, with instructions for the DK Weight version in parentheses. When only one figure is given, it applies to both versions.
If you find it difficult to cast on stitches loosely, try using a needle 2 sizes larger than the size required for the ribbing to work the cast-on row. Remember to change back to the size required before working your first rnd.
Brim
Using smaller circ needle, CO 128 (120) sts loosely. Join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts; place marker (pm) for beginning of rnd. Begin 1x1 Rib; work even until piece measures 1 ¼" from the beginning.
Crown
Sport Weight Version Only
Increase Rnd: Change to larger circ needle. K2tog, *k1-f/b, k1; repeat from * to end–190 sts.
DK Weight Version Only
Increase Rnd: Change to larger circ needle. *K1-f/b, k1; repeat from * to end–180 sts.
Both Versions
Next Rnd: Change to St st (knit every rnd); work even until piece measures 4 ½" from the beginning. Note: If you prefer a more relaxed Beret, work even until piece measures 5-6" from the beginning.
Shape Crown
Note: Change to dpns when necessary for number of sts on needle.
Decrease Rnd 1: *K3, k2tog; repeat from * to end–152 (144) sts remain. Work even for 1".
Decrease Rnd 2: *K2, k2tog; repeat from * to end–114 (108) sts remain. Work even for 1".
Decrease Rnd 3: *K1, k2tog; repeat from * to end–76 (72) sts remain. Work even for 1".
Decrease Rnd 4: *K2tog; repeat from * to end–38 (36) sts remain. Work even for ¾".
Decrease Rnd 5: *K2tog; repeat from * to end–19 (18) sts remain. Knit 1 rnd.
Decrease Rnd 6: K1 (0), *k2tog; repeat from * to end–10 (9) sts remain. Knit 1 rnd.
Decrease Rnd 7: K0 (1), *k2tog; repeat from * to end–5 (5) sts remain. Break yarn, leaving an 8" tail; thread tail through remaining sts, pull tight and fasten off, with tail to WS.
Finishing
Block as desired.
Shown clockwise from top: Manos del Uruguay Silk Blend, Joseph Galler Belangor, Alchemy Yarns of Transformation Haiku and Hand Jive Nature’s Palette Plant-Dyed Merino Fingering Yarn, Farmhouse Yarns Fannie’s Fingering, ShibuiKnits Merino Worsted, Lobster Pot Yarns 2-Ply Cashmere
Shown from left to right: Ice Cream and Toast
The simple shape of this classic child’s vest lends itself to finishing with a personal detail, such as a first initial worked in duplicate stitch. For charts of letters and numbers, see page 134.
SIZES
18-24 months (3-4 years, 5-6 years, 7-8 years, 9-10 years)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
23 ½ (26 ¼, 29 ¼, 32, 34 ¾)" chest
YARN
Spud & Chloë Sweater (55% superwash wool / 45% organic cotton; 160 yards / 100 grams): 1 (2, 2, 2, 3) hank(s) #7500 Ice Cream (size 3-4 years) or #7506 Toast (size 5-6 years for MC); small amounts #7501 Popsicle (size 3-4 years) or #7500 Ice Cream (size 5-6 years) for Duplicate Stitch
NEEDLES
One 24" (60 cm) circular (circ) needle size US 9 (5.5 mm)
One 24" (60 cm) circular needle size US 7 (4.5 mm)
One set of five double-pointed needles (dpn) size US 7 (4.5 mm)
Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
GAUGE
17 sts and 22 rnds = 4" (10 cm) in Stockinette stitch (St st) (knit every rnd), using larger needles
NOTIONS
Stitch marker; stitch holders; water-soluble disappearing fabric marker (optional); tapestry needle
STITCH PATTERN
1x1 Rib (multiple of 2 sts; 1-rnd repeat)
All Rnds: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end
Body
Using smaller circ needle and MC, CO 100 (112, 124, 136, 148) sts. Join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts; place marker (pm) for beginning of rnd. Begin 1x1 Rib; work even for 4 rnds.
Next Rnd: Change to larger needles and St st (knit every rnd); work even until piece measures 7 (8, 9, 10, 11)" from the beginning.
Divide for Front and Back
Row 1 (RS): K2 (4, 6, 7, 8), place last 4 (8, 12, 14, 16) sts worked on holder for underarm, k46 (48, 50, 54, 58) and place on holder for Back (or leave sts on circ while you work the Front), k4 (8, 12, 14, 16) and place on holder for underarm, knit to end.
Front
Shape Armholes
Working on Front sts only, purl 1 row.
Next Row (RS): Decrease 1 st each side this row, then every other row 4 (5, 5, 5, 6) times, as follows: Ssk, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog–36 (36, 38, 42, 44) sts remain. Work even for 2 rows.
Shape Neck
Decrease Row 1 (RS): K13 (13, 14, 16, 17), k2tog, k1, turn-15 (15, 16, 18, 19) sts remain for left shoulder.
Decrease Row 2: P1, p2tog, work to end–14 (14, 15, 17, 18) sts remain.
Decrease Row 3: Working only on left shoulder sts, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1–13 (13, 14, 16, 17) sts remain.
Work Decrease Rows 2 and 3 until 8 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts remain. Work even until piece measures 12 ½ (14 ¼, 15 ¼, 16 ¼, 17 ¾)" from the beginning, ending with a RS row. Break yarn, leaving a long tail for finishing. Place sts on holder.
Note: The shoulders will be joined using Kitchener st (see page 128). If you are not comfortable with Kitchener st, you may either BO the shoulder sts now and sew the shoulder seams when finishing, or leave the sts on st holders now and join the shoulders when finishing using Three-Needle BO (see page 133). For either of the latter options, end with a WS row instead of a RS row.
Next Row (RS): With RS facing, rejoin yarn to remaining sts. K4 and place on holder for finishing, k1, ssk, knit to end–15 (15, 16, 18, 19) sts remain for right shoulder.
Decrease Row 2: Work to last 3 sts, ssp, p1–14 (14, 15, 17, 18) sts remain.
Decrease Row 3: K1, ssk, knit to end–13 (13, 14, 16, 17) sts remain.
Work Decrease Rows 2 and 3 until 8 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts remain. Work even until piece measures 12½ (14 ¼, 15¼, 16 ¼, 17 ¾)" from the beginning, ending with a RS row. Break yarn, leaving a long tail for finishing. Place sts on holder.
Back
Shape Armholes
With WS facing, rejoin yarn to left undearm. Purl 1 row.
Next Row (RS): Decrease 1 st each side this row, then every other row 4 (5, 5, 5, 6) times, as follows: Ssk, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog–36 (36, 38, 42, 44) sts remain. Work even until piece measures 11 (13, 14, 14 ¾, 16 ¼)", ending with a WS row.
Shape Neck
Decrease Row 1 (RS): K10 (10, 11, 13, 14), k2tog, k1, turn–12 (12, 13, 15, 16) sts remain for right shoulder.
Decrease Row 2: P1, p2tog, work to end–11 (11, 12, 14, 15) sts remain.
Decrease Row 3: Working only on right shoulder sts, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1–10 (10, 11, 13, 14) sts remain.
Work Decrease Rows 2 and 3 until 8 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts remain. Work even until piece measures 12½ (14 ¼, 15 ¼, 16¼, 17¾)" from the beginning, ending with a RS row. Break yarn, leaving a long tail for finishing. Place sts on holder.
Next Row (RS): With RS facing, rejoin yarn to remaining sts. K10 and place on holder for finishing, k1, ssk, knit to end–12 (12, 13, 15, 16) sts remain for left shoulder.
Decrease Row 2: Work to last 3 sts, ssp, p1–11 (11, 12, 14, 15) sts remain.
Decrease Row 3: K1, ssk, knit to end–10 (10, 11, 13, 14) sts remain.
Work Decrease Rows 2 and 3 until 8 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts remain. Work even until piece measures 12 ½ (14 ¼, 15 ¼, 16 ¼, 17 ¾)" from the beginning, ending with a RS row. Break yarn, leaving a long tail for finishing. Place sts on holder.
Finishing
Using Kitchener st, graft shoulder sts. Note: If you chose not to use Kitchener st, sew shoulder seams or join shoulder sts using Three-Needle BO.
Using dpns and MC, k4 (8, 12, 14, 16) from holder for underarm, pick up and knit approximately 3 sts for every 4 rows around armhole edge, ending with an even number of sts. Note: You might be tempted to pick up sts through the largish gaps left by the decreases on the shaped edge, but don’t or your pick-up row will have gaps at its edge. Pick up through the tighter sts around the edges instead. Join for working in the rnd. Begin 1x1 Rib; work even for 3 rnds. BO all sts in pattern.
Neckband
Using dpns and MC, k10 from holder for center Back neck, pick up and knit approximately 3 sts for every 4 sts or rows to center Front neck, k4 from holder for center Front neck, pick up and knit approximately 3 sts for every 4 sts or rows to center Back neck, ending with an even number of sts. Join for working in the rnd. Begin 1x1 Rib; work even for 4 rnds. BO all sts in pattern loosely. Note: To ensure that your BO is not too tight, you might want to use a larger needle to BO so that the neck opening will fit over the wearer’s head.
Duplicate Stitch Pattern
Work your choice of letters or numbers in Duplicate st (see page 130) on front of sweater.
Fingerless gloves are a fantastic gift for people who spend a lot of time working with their hands outdoors (I love to wear them in early spring when I’m hunting in the garden for signs of life). I started out with the idea that these gloves should be unisex but then couldn’t resist adding the Aran variation for women (see photo on page 80). The yarn is Alchemy’s Temple, a superfine merino that comes in a rainbow of gorgeous hand-dyed colors and is machine-washable.
PLAIN GLOVES
SIZES
Child’s Medium (Child’s Large/Adult Small; Women’s Medium; Women’s Large/Men’s Small; Men’s Medium)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
6 (6 ¾, 7¼, 8, 8 ¾)" circumference
YARN
Alchemy Yarns of Transformation Temple (100% superfine merino; 128 yards / 50 grams): 1 (2, 2, 2, 2) hank(s) #65E Dragon (Women’s Large/Men’s Small) or #21E Green Plum (Men’s Medium)
NEEDLES
One set of four double-pointed needles (dpn) size US 5 (3.75 mm)
One set of four double-pointed needles size US 4 (3.5 mm)
Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
NOTIONS
Stitch marker; waste yarn
GAUGE
24 sts and 36 rnds = 4" (10 cm) in Stockinette stitch (St st) (knit every rnd), using larger needles
ABBREVIATION
M1-p-tbl: With tip of left-hand needle inserted from front to back, lift strand between 2 needles onto left-hand needle; purl strand through back loop to increase 1 st.
STITCH PATTERNS
2x2 Rib (multiple of 4 sts; 1-rnd repeat)
All Rnds: *K2, p2; repeat from * to end.
1x1 Rib (multiple of 2 sts; 1-rnd repeat)
All Rnds: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end.
Right and Left Glove (both alike)
Cuff
Using smaller needles, CO 36 (40, 44, 48, 52) sts. Divide sts among 3 needles. Join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts; place marker (pm) for beginning of rnd. Begin 2x2 Rib; work even until piece measures 2 ½ (2 ¾, 3, 3, 3)" from the beginning.
Thumb Gusset
Set-Up Rnd: Change to larger needles and St st (knit every rnd). Knit to last 3 sts, pm, knit to end.
Increase Rnd: Increase 2 sts this rnd, then every 3 rnds 5 (6, 7, 7, 7) times, as follows: Work to marker, M1-r, slip marker (sm), k1, M1-l, knit to end–48 (54, 60, 64, 68) sts. Work even for 1 rnd.
Divide for Thumb: Work 34 (38, 42, 46, 50) sts, place next 12 (14, 16, 16, 16) sts on waste yarn for Thumb, removing marker, rejoin for working in the rnd, knit to end–36 (40, 44, 48, 52) sts remain.
Hand
Work even for 8 rnds.
Next Rnd: Change to smaller needles and 1x1 Rib; work even for 10 (12, 12, 12, 14) rnds.
BO all sts loosely in pattern.
Thumb
Transfer sts from waste yarn to 3 of the smaller dpns. Rejoin yarn.
Rnd 1: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end, pick up and knit 2 sts from gap, as follows: M1-l, M1-p-tbl–14 (16, 18, 18, 18) sts. Work even until piece measures 1". BO all sts loosely in pattern.
Finishing
Block if desired.
SIZES
Child’s Medium (Child’s Large/Women’s Small, Women’s Medium, Women’s Large)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
6 ¼ (7, 7 ½, 8 ¼)" circumference
YARN
Alchemy Yarns of Transformation Temple (100% superfine merino; 128 yards / 50 grams): 2 hanks #65e Dragon
NEEDLES
One set of four double-pointed needles (dpn) size US 5 (3.75 mm)
One set of four double-pointed needles size US 4 (3.5 mm)
Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
NOTIONS
Stitch marker; cable needle (cn); waste yarn
GAUGE
24 sts and 36 rnds = 4" (10 cm) in Stockinette stitch (St st) (knit every rnd), using larger needles
ABBREVIATIONS
C4F: Slip 2 sts to cn, hold to front, k2, k2 from cn.
C4B: Slip 2 sts to cn, hold to back, k2, k2 from cn.
M1 -p-tbl: With tip of left-hand needle inserted from front to back, lift strand between 2 needles onto left-hand needle; purl strand through back loop to increase 1 st.
STITCH PATTERN
2x2 Rib (multiple of 4 sts; 1-rnd repeat)
All Rnds: *K2, p2; repeat from * to end.
Cable Panel (panel of 14 sts; 4-rnd repeat)
Rnd 1: K2, [C4F] 3 times.
Rnd 2: K14.
Rnd 3: [C4B] 3 times, k2.
Rnd 4: K14.
Repeat Rnds 1-4 for Cable Panel.
1x1 Rib (multiple of 2 sts; 1-rnd repeat)
All Rnds: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end.
Left Glove
Cuff
Using smaller needles, CO 36 (40, 44, 48) sts. Divide sts among 3 needles. Join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts; place marker (pm) for beginning of rnd. Begin 2x2 Rib; work even until piece measures 2 ½ (2 ¾, 3, 3, 3)" from the beginning.
Thumb Gusset
Begin Cable Panel.
Set-Up Rnd 1: Change to larger needles. K3 (4, 5, 6), p2, M1-p, [k1, k1-f/b, M1-l] 3 times, k2, M1-p, p2, knit to end–44 (48, 52, 56) sts.
Set-Up Rnd 2: K3 (4, 5, 6), p3, work Cable Panel over 14 sts, p3, knit to last 3
sts, pm, knit to end.
Increase Rnd: Increase 2 sts this rnd, then every 3 rnds 5 (6, 7, 7) times, as follows: Work to marker, M1-r, slip marker (sm), k1, M1-l, knit to end–56 (62, 68, 72) sts. Work even for 1 rnd.
Divide for Thumb: Work 42 (46, 50, 54) sts, place next 12 (14, 16, 16) sts on waste yarn for Thumb, removing marker, rejoin for working in the rnd, knit to end–44 (48, 52, 56) sts remain.
Work even for 8 rnds.
Next Rnd: Change to smaller needles. K1 (0, 1, 0), [p1, k1] 1 (2, 2, 3) times, work next 20 sts as established, *k1, p1; repeat from * to last 3 (4, 3, 4) sts, k1 (0, 1, 0), p2tog, k0 (1, 0, 1)–43 (47, 51, 55) sts remain. Work even for 11 rnds. BO all sts loosely in pattern. Note: You may want to work a few decreases across the Cable Panel sts while binding off, so that the BO edge does not flare.
Thumb
Transfer 12 (14, 16, 16) sts from waste yarn to 3 dpns. Rejoin yarn.
Rnd 1: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end, pick up and knit 2 sts from gap, as follows: M1-l, M1-p-tbl–14 (16, 18, 18) sts. Work even until piece measures 1". BO all sts loosely in pattern.
Right Glove
Work as for Left Glove to beginning of Thumb Gusset.
Thumb Gusset
Begin Cable Panel
Set-Up Rnd 1: Change to larger needles. K3 (4, 5, 6), p2, M1-p, [k1, k1-f/b, M1-l] 3 times, k2, M1-p, p2, knit to end–44 (48, 52, 56) sts.
Set-Up Rnd 2: K3 (4, 5, 6), p3, work Cable Panel over 14 sts, p3, k5 (6, 7, 8), pm, knit to end. Work as for Left Glove to end of Thumb Gusset.
Divide for Thumb: Work 28 (30, 32, 34) sts, place next 12 (14, 16, 16) sts on waste yarn for Thumb, removing marker, knit to end. Complete as for Left Glove.
Finishing
Block if desired.
I worked this feminine scarf in the round in a long tube to retain the springiness of the beautiful lace. If I had worked it flat and wanted to keep the edges from curling, I would have had to either block it heavily (and, in the process, lose depth and springiness) or add a substantial edge stitch, which I didn’t think would look as appealing. It is made with one hank of 4-ply kid mohair from Wagtail Yarns. I find this yarn incredibly beautiful; every color is like a radiant jewel that shines and glows.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
6" wide × 42" long, after blocking
YARN
Wagtail Yarns 100% Kid Mohair Yarn 4-Ply (100% kid mohair; 410 yards / 100 grams): 1 hank Bronze
NEEDLES
One 16" (40 cm) long circular (circ) needle size US 7 (4.5 mm)
Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
NOTIONS
Stitch marker
GAUGE
25 sts and 30 rnds = 4" (10 cm) in Openwork Pattern, after blocking
STITCH PATTERN
Openwork Pattern (multiple of 2 sts + 1; 4-rnd repeat)
Rnds 1 and 3: Knit.
Rnd 2: K1, *yo, k2tog; repeat from * to end.
Rnd 4: *Ssk, yo; repeat from * to last st, k1.
Repeat Rnds 1-4 for Openwork Pattern.
Scarf
CO 75 sts. Join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts; place marker (pm) for beginning of rnd. Begin St st (knit every rnd); work even for 1". Change to Openwork Pattern; work even until piece measures 41" from the beginning, stretching slightly. Change to St st; work even for 1". BO all sts loosely.
Finishing
Block to measurements.
Blankets are the perfect canvas for playing with color. This one is worked from the center out in five different colors that form a series of nesting squares. It’s easy enough for a beginner to make while still being interesting enough to hold a more advanced knitter’s attention. A little thicker than a typical baby blanket, it can do double-duty as a play mat.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
30" square, after blocking
YARN
Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Worsted (100% superwash wool; 225 yards / 100 grams): 1 hank each Natural (A), Sunshine (B), Firefly (C), Harvest (D), and Pale Pink (E)
NEEDLES
One 60" (150 cm) long circular (circ) needle size US 10 ½ (6.5 mm)
Note: If you prefer, you may begin with a shorter circ needle, then change to the longer length when desired to accommodate number of sts on needle.
Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
NOTIONS
Crochet hook size US J10 (6 mm); 4 stitch markers; waste yarn; tapestry needle
GAUGE
13 sts and 20 rows = 4" (10 cm) in Stockinette stitch (St st), using 2 strands of yarn held together.
Mat
Using Provisional (Crochet Chain) CO (see page 132) and 2 strands of A held together, CO 6 sts.
Set-Up Row (RS): *K1, place marker (pm); repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 1 and all WS Rows: Purl.
Row 2: K1, [M1-r, slip marker (sm), k1, M1-l] 4 times, k1–14 sts.
Row 4: [Knit to marker, M1-r, sm, k1, M1-l] 4 times, knit to end–22 sts.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4, changing to 2 strands each of B, C, then D at the beginning of a row, as each hank runs out. Note: Make sure last row worked with D is a WS row. Side seam will be sewn in segments, using color to match sides being sewn together; when changing colors, make sure to leave long enough tail to sew portion of side seam worked in that color.
Next Row (RS): Change to E. Knit 8 rows. BO all sts loosely knitwise.
Finishing
Using Mattress st (see page 126) and tails left when changing colors, sew seam, beginning from outer edge and working in to center. Carefully unpick Provisional CO; thread tail from first A row through live sts, pull tight, and fasten off. Block piece to measurements.
This is such a classic that I’ve sized it from a child’s size 2 to a men’s large. Child’s sizes 2-6 can be completed in less than 8 hours, but the larger sizes will take longer.
SIZES
Child’s 2 (Child’s 4, Child’s 6,
Child’s 8, Child’s 10, Child’s 12,
Women’s Small, Women’s Medium,
Women’s Large/Men’s Small,
Women’s 1X-Large/Men’s Medium,
Women’s 2X-Large/Men’s Large)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
21 (23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50)" chest
YARN
Spud & Chloë Outer (65% superwash wool / 35% organic cotton; 60 yards / 100 grams): 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17) hanks #7200 Soapstone
NEEDLES
Two 24" (60 cm) long (or longer for larger sizes) circular (circ) needles size US 13 (9 mm)
One 16" (40 cm) long circular needle size US 13 (9 mm)
One set of five double-pointed needles (dpn) size US 13 (9 mm)
One 16" (40 cm) long circular needle size US 11 (8 mm)
Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
NOTIONS
Removable stitch markers (including 1 in contrasting color); stitch holders; waste yarn
GAUGE
10 sts and 14 rnds = 4" (10 cm) in Stockinette stitch (St st) (knit every rnd), using larger needle
Body
Using 24" long or longer circ needle, CO 27 (29, 32, 34, 37, 39, 43, 48, 53, 58, 63) sts, place marker (pm) for left side, CO 27 (29, 32, 34, 37, 39, 43, 48, 53, 58, 63) sts–54 (58, 64, 68, 74, 78, 86, 96, 106, 116, 126) sts. Join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts; pm for beginning of rnd. Begin St st (knit every rnd); work even until piece measures 10 (10 ¾, 11 ½, 12 ¼, 13 ¾, 14 ¾, 17, 16 ¼, 17 ½, 17 ½, 16 ½)", or to desired length from the beginning, with CO edge unrolled, ending last rnd 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 5) sts past beginning of rnd marker. Place last 2 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 8, 10) sts worked on holder for underarm, removing marker. Work to 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 5) sts past next marker, place last 2 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 8, 10) sts worked on holder for underarm, removing marker–25 (25, 28, 30, 33, 35, 39, 42, 47, 50, 53) sts remain each for Front and Back. Leave sts on needle; set aside.
Sleeves
Using dpns, CO 18 (20, 20, 24, 24, 24, 26, 26, 28, 28, 28) sts. Divide sts among 4 needles. Join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts; use the gap between the needles and the tail from the CO to keep track of the beginning of rnd. Begin St st; work even until piece measures 4" from the beginning, with CO edge unrolled.
Shape Sleeve
Increase Rnd: Increase 2 sts this rnd, then every 5 (10, 8, 27, 15, 12, 21, 11, 9, 8, 6) rnds 3 (2, 3, 1, 2, 3, 2, 4, 5, 6, 8) times, as follows: K1-f/b, knit to last st, k1-f/b–26 (26, 28, 28, 30, 32, 32, 36, 40, 42, 46) sts. Work even until piece measures 10 ½ (12 ½, 13 ½, 14 ½, 15 ½, 17, 19, 20, 20 ½, 21 ½, 22)", or to desired length from the beginning, with CO edge unrolled, ending 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 5) sts past beginning of rnd. Place last 2 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 8, 10) sts worked on holder for underarm. Transfer remaining 24 (22, 24, 24, 26, 28, 28, 30, 34, 34, 36) sts to waste yarn for Left Sleeve. Set aside. Repeat for Right Sleeve but leave sts on needle.
Yoke
Join Body and Sleeves
Continuing in St st, and working sts onto needle holding Front and Back, pm of different color for beginning of rnd, work across 24 (22, 24, 24, 26, 28, 28, 30, 34, 34, 36) sts for Right Sleeve, pm, work across 25 (25, 28, 30, 33, 35, 39, 42, 47, 50, 53) sts for Back, pm, work across 24 (22, 24, 24, 26, 28, 28, 30, 34, 34, 36) sts for Left Sleeve from waste yarn, pm, work across to last 2 sts of Front.
Shape Underarm
Decrease Rnd 1: Decrease 4 sts this rnd, then every other rnd 0 (0, 0, 0, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 3, 4) times, as follows, ending final repeat 1 st before beginning of rnd marker: [K2tog, slip marker (sm), knit to next marker, sm, ssk, knit to 2 sts before next marker] twice–94 (90, 100, 104, 110, 118, 126, 136, 150, 152, 158) sts remain. Reposition markers as follows: Move first (beginning of rnd) and third markers 1 st to the right, and second and fourth markers 1 st to the left.
Shape Sleeve Cap
Decrease Rnd 2: Decrease 4 sts this rnd, then every other rnd 3 (6, 6, 7, 5, 4, 6, 6, 4, 5, 6) times, then every rnd 4 (0, 1, 0, 3, 5, 3, 4, 8, 7, 7) times, as follows, ending final repeat 1 st before beginning of rnd marker: [sm, ssk, knit to 2 sts before next marker, k2tog, sm, knit to next marker] twice–62 (62, 68, 72, 74, 78, 86, 92, 98, 100, 102) sts remain [8 sts each Sleeve; 23 (23, 26, 28, 29, 31, 35, 38, 41, 42, 43) sts each Front and Back]. Reposition markers as follows: Move first (beginning of rnd) and third markers 1 st to the left, and second and fourth markers 1 st to the right. Note: Change to 16" circ needle when necessary for number of sts on needle.
Repeat Decrease Rnd 1 this rnd, then every rnd 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 9, 9) times, ending final repeat 2 sts before end of rnd–46 (46, 48, 52, 54, 54, 58, 60, 58, 60, 62) sts remain.
Shape Shoulders and Back Neck
Note: Back Neck is shaped using short rows (see page 132).
Rows 1 and 2: K2tog, sm, knit to next marker, sm, ssk, knit to 3 sts before next marker, wrp-t, purl to 3 sts before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Rnd: Working wrap together with wrapped st as you come to it, knit to 2 sts before third marker, k2tog, sm, knit to next marker, sm, ssk, knit to end–42 (42, 44, 48, 50, 50, 54, 56, 54, 56, 58) sts remain. Work even for 1 rnd, working remaining wrap together with wrapped st as you come to it, and removing all but beginning of rnd marker.
Next Rnd: Change to smaller circ needle. Work even for 10 (10, 10, 11, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 13, 13) rnds. Change to larger 16" circ needle. Work even for 1 rnd. BO all sts loosely. Note: If your BO is too tight, consider using a needle 1 or 2 sizes larger for working BO.
Finishing
Using Kitchener st (see page 128), graft underarm sts. Block if desired.
