12
RECIPES
A friend asked me for a few cooked-oyster recipes. It seems her husband from the American heartland had never tasted an oyster, and he just could not belly up to the bar for a raw one. Her idea was to offer a cooked one, partly disguised with other ingredients, for an introduction. Her plan is a well-tested one. “The recipes worked, and proved the perfect entry and entrée for my little project,” she wrote. “Phase two will be raw, of course, but for him, baby steps first.”
Most oyster lovers prefer to eat their oysters alive—or raw—served cold on a bed of ice and/or seaweed. There is greatness, too, in a cooked oyster, as many a great chef has proved. We have gone many times to Maison Bru in Provence, and I don’t think I have ever been there with my husband when he has not ordered the king crab with spinach, a Marennes oyster, and potato mousse with truffles. Decadence. Whenever I see oysters in any variation of aspic, I vote yes.
The following recipes provide cooked versions of oysters for variety or perhaps for “baby steps.” The roasted version is the simplest, but if you are not quite ready for that, try some of the following recipes, where cheese, cream, herbs, butter, spices, or veggies may, with luck, lead the less adventurous to try the next step of eating a simple or raw oyster to experience the true taste of the sea. I cook with only fresh oysters that I shuck, but you can get freshly shucked oysters without shells at some fishmongers, and I have had good reports from people who cook with oysters packed in a jar. Make sure when you cook oysters that the cooking time is short so you don’t toughen the tender bivalves.
And oh, oyster stuffing for a turkey? Umm. Right… cooked oysters.
ROASTED OYSTERS
SERVES 4
Again, if you are not ready to taste raw oysters, probably the quickest and easiest way is to try a roasted one. My Parisian friend Amélie always prepares some when she has her international gatherings. She orders a few bourriches of oysters from the brasserie down the street, then serves half raw to her oyster-lover friends and the rest roasted, which everyone seems to enjoy. She has a high rate of success in winning over “neophytes,” who are quick to go “raw” the next time.
Rock salt
24 oysters, scrubbed
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Juice of 1 lemon
Preheat the oven to 450°F.
Spread a layer of rock salt on a baking sheet and nestle the oysters in it, curved shell down. Place in the oven and bake until the shells just begin to open, 9–10 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven. To open the oysters, hold a roasted oyster with an oven mitt or kitchen towel, insert an oyster knife into the hinge between the shells, and twist the blade to open. Serve immediately on the deep halves of the shells, seasoned to taste with salt, pepper, and fresh lemon juice.
OYSTERS WITH PARMESAN
SERVES 4
Our Roman friends claim that even the French oysters they get in Rome don’t taste quite the same as in Paris. More often than not, they prepare a cooked version, and the touch of Parmesan is a nice way to introduce people to the bivalves, though it requires shucked oysters or someone to do the job (husband Maurizio does it in his sleep!), and then a few minutes to prepare a lovely appetizer or meal. Try them with a simple dry white Italian wine or even a premium prosecco, not a bad combination. When I am traveling and see oysters on the menu but am not sure how fresh they are, I order them cooked, as there is usually a variation of this recipe with a local cheese.
Rock salt
24 oysters on the half shell
½ cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
¾ cup freshly grated Parmesan
Preheat the broiler.
Spread a layer of rock salt on a baking sheet and nestle the oyster shells in it. Pour a small spoonful of wine over each oyster and top with a thin slice of butter and a sprinkle of parsley. Cover each with Parmesan and broil in the oven until the cheese melts and becomes golden and the edges of the oysters begin to curl, 3–5 minutes.
OYSTERS WITH CITRUS SAUCE
SERVES 4
Here’s another simple way to “spice oysters up,” not so different from adding a squirt of fresh lemon juice or some vinaigrette to raw ones. Citrus juices bring out or add another dimension to the taste of oysters, not unlike some accompaniments served in restaurants both in France and in the United States. The juices open up your appetite.
24 oysters on the half shell
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small cubes
Juice and zest of 1 lemon
Juice of 1 orange
Pinch of paprika
Salt to taste
Fresh minced parsley for garnish
Strain the oyster liquor. Place the oysters with their liquor in a saucepan over medium heat, bring to a gentle simmer, and poach for approximately 2 minutes, or until the oysters’ edges just begin to curl, skimming the surface as needed. Meanwhile, clean the oyster shells and arrange on a serving tray. Remove the oysters from the saucepan and place them in a small bowl and keep warm.
Add the butter, lemon juice and zest, orange juice, and paprika to the saucepan containing the oyster liquor. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, whisking until the butter melts. Continue to simmer until the sauce thickens slightly, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt, add the poached oysters, and stir just to warm. Spoon 1 oyster and some sauce into each shell and serve immediately, garnished with fresh parsley.
OYSTER SOUP WITH CRÈME FRAÎCHE
SERVES 4
Now, as my mother would say, “un délice aux huîtres pour ceux qui aiment la crème” (an oyster delight for cream lovers). Count me in on that one any day, especially on a cold winter night with a slice of good seven-grain bread, a heavy spread of salted butter, and maybe a glass of the same wine used in the preparation. That’s a royal dinner. Add a piece of fruit for dessert to complete the meal nutritionally.
24 shucked oysters and their liquor
1 cup dry white wine
¼ cup crème fraîche
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small cubes
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives
Strain the oyster liquor. Place the shucked oysters and strained liquor in a saucepan, add the wine, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat for 1 minute, skimming the surface as needed. Remove the saucepan from the heat, add the crème fraîche, and stir to combine. Return the pan to the stove and, over low heat, add the butter, stirring until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper and divide among 4 small bowls. Garnish with fresh chives and serve immediately.
OYSTER VICHYSSOISE
SERVES 4
This will appeal to lovers of leeks, cream, and oysters. Count me in on that one, too. Served with a chilled muscadet, this dish makes for a perfect brunch course.
¾ cup crème fraîche, divided
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into small cubes
4 leeks, white parts only, cleaned and minced
3–4 cups chicken stock
¼ cup dry white wine
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper
16 shucked oysters and their liquor, divided
Whip ¼ cup of the crème fraîche and reserve in the refrigerator.
Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat, add the potatoes and leeks, and sauté, stirring, for 3 minutes. Add 3 cups of chicken stock, the remaining ½ cup crème fraîche, the wine, and the lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper, increase heat to medium high, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium low and gently simmer until the potatoes are very tender, 25–30 minutes. Carefully transfer the mixture to a blender and purée or pass through a vegetable mill, adding more chicken stock if too thick. Place the pureed soup in a clean saucepan and add the oyster liquor; stir over medium heat until hot. Season to taste.
Place the raw oysters in warm soup dishes and pour the soup on top. The hot soup will “cook” the oysters slightly. Garnish with whipped crème fraîche and serve immediately.
OYSTER OMELET WITH SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS
SERVES 2
This is definitely a great, simple, and warm introduction to the oyster naysayer. I’ve turned lots of friends into addictive raw oyster lovers with this recipe in New York and Paris. The pancetta and mushrooms may seem to hide the pearls, but chewing them within the egg combination leads to a “Hmm, those little chunks from the sea in there bring an additional flavor.” And curious eaters will keep exploring till they reach the “raw” stage. Didn’t I say somewhere that life is lived in stages?
⅓ cup diced pancetta (or bacon)
1 tablespoon minced shallot
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1¼ cups thinly sliced shiitake mushrooms
12 shucked oysters, with 2 tablespoons oyster liquor
6 large eggs
Salt and freshly ground paper
1 tablespoon minced parsley
Place the pancetta (or bacon) in a large nonstick skillet and cook over medium heat until golden and crisp, 2–3 minutes. Add the shallot and sauté until fragrant and softened, about 2 minutes. Place the pancetta-shallot mixture in a small bowl and keep warm. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter to the same pan, and, when melted, add the shiitake mushrooms and cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes. Add the oysters and sauté until they are plump and their edges have just started to curl. Remove the mixture from the pan, drain any excess liquid, place in a bowl, and reserve.
In a medium bowl whisk the eggs together with the oyster liquor and season to taste. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter to the pan and melt over medium-high heat. Pour the eggs into the pan and cook, lifting the edges with a spatula to allow the uncooked egg to seep underneath, until the bottom of the omelet is golden and the top is just starting to set. Scatter the pancetta-shallot and shiitake-oyster mixtures over the top and carefully slide the omelet onto a large plate, folding one edge over the filling. Sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately.
OYSTERS ROCKEFELLER
SERVES 4
Gabrielle, my dear and gourmande champenoise friend, makes a version of this dish in which she replaces the Pernod with Champagne to have the trio of her favorite foods, oysters, spinach, and Champagne, all in one dish. I like hers a lot, but I still prefer to use an anise-flavored liqueur in this dish.
My first experience with this classic dish was actually not in France, but at Antoine’s Restaurant in New Orleans. Little did I know I was eating at the source! The place is a monument. I doubt there is another family-run restaurant in this country today (considering the short life of most restaurants) that opened in 1840 and is still alive and well.
No other American dish has received as many accolades, been so widely imitated and adapted, or evolved as much as this one. Basically, though, it is oysters on the half shell topped with a green sauce with breadcrumbs and then baked.
The dish was created by Antoine’s son, Jules Alciatore, in 1899, based on a snail recipe; a shortage of snails gave him the idea to use oysters. Thus parsley seems to have been the original green ingredient, though some claim it was watercress. We’ll never know, as Antoine’s recipe is still a secret and has no doubt evolved, too. The dish was named after John D. Rockefeller, the richest American at the time, for the richness of the sauce. It seems that a customer gave Jules the idea, exclaiming after eating the dish, “This is as rich as Rockefeller.” It is said that the original dish had about eighteen ingredients. This recipe follows my philosophy of “less is more”… not only in the number, but particularly in the amounts (oh, the amount of butter in the original… but if you have ever eaten classic escargots with butter and garlic the old-fashioned way, you know what I am trying to convey).
4 cups fresh baby spinach, washed and steamed until just wilted
⅓ cup chopped shallots
⅓ cup chopped parsley
⅓ cup finely ground fresh breadcrumbs
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon Pernod
2–3 dashes Tabasco sauce
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
⅔ teaspoon kosher salt
Rock salt
24 oysters on the half shell
1 lemon, cut into wedges
Preheat the oven to 450°F.
Squeeze any excess water from the steamed spinach before placing it in a food processor. Add the shallots, parsley, breadcrumbs, Worcestershire sauce, Pernod, Tabasco sauce, butter, and kosher salt; purée until smooth.
Spread a layer of rock salt on a baking sheet and nestle the oyster shells in it. Top each oyster with 1 teaspoon of purée, place the baking sheet in the oven, and bake until golden, 12–15 minutes. Remove from the oven, transfer the oysters to a platter or individual plates garnished with lemon wedges, and serve immediately.
OYSTERS À LA NORMANDE
SERVES 4
Normandy is the land of apples and cream and the apple-based digestif Calvados. Every region that produces oysters has recipes typical of the local taste and ingredients. I first had this dish (made with the luscious Utah Beach oysters) early in my marriage, while visiting Honfleur and sitting for lunch at a small bistro overlooking the water on a chilly late spring day. It was the perfect dish to warm me up and salute the first rays of spring sun. Beurre d’Isigny is the local butter there, and the taste of the oysters and the bread and butter is still vivid in my memories of that meal.
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and finely diced
Rock salt
24 oysters on the half shell
½ cup crème fraîche
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Fresh dill for garnish
Preheat the broiler.
Melt the butter in a skillet over medium-low heat. Add the diced apples and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly golden, 7–10 minutes. Add the Calvados and simmer until reduced, 2–3 additional minutes. Remove from the heat and reserve.
Spread a layer of rock salt on a baking sheet and nestle the shucked oysters in it. Top each with ½–1 teaspoon of crème fraîche and ½–1 teaspoon apples, depending on the size of the oyster. Season to taste with salt and pepper and place the baking sheet in the oven. Cook until the oysters are plump and edges have just started to curl and the tops are golden, 3–5 minutes. Remove from the oven, transfer the oysters to a tray, garnish with dill, and serve immediately.
OYSTER BROCHETTES
SERVES 4
Only since the twentieth century have oysters mostly been consumed cold, unless at the seaside, so this brochette recipe is, after a fashion, a return to past traditions.
8 thin slices of bacon, cut in half crosswise
Freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons minced parsley
1 lemon, cut into wedges
Preheat the broiler.
Place the bacon in a skillet over medium-high heat and parcook just until the edges have started to curl but the slices are still flexible. Remove from the pan and reserve.
After patting the oysters dry with paper towels, wrap 1 piece of bacon around each oyster and secure with a small toothpick. Season with freshly ground pepper and place each oyster on a baking sheet, toothpick side down. Place the baking sheet in the oven and broil for 4–5 minutes. Turn the oysters over and cook for an additional 1 to 2 minutes, until the bacon is crisp and the oysters’ edges have just started to curl. Remove from the oven, transfer to a tray, and garnish the oysters with parsley and lemon wedges. Serve immediately.
SHRIMP WITH OYSTERS AND SEAWEED
SERVES 4
This is my humble reproduction of an oyster dish I tasted on one of my first visits to Tokyo, not knowing at the time that oysters were yet another cultural and gastronomic parallel between Japan and France.
4 ounces fresh, shucked oysters (about 6–8 small-to medium-sized oysters) and their liquor
4 tablespoons chopped parsley
⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons grape-seed oil
Fresh lemon juice to taste
Salt and freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
½ cup panko breadcrumbs
8 medium shrimp, shelled and deveined
1 piece dried seaweed, finely ground in a spice grinder
Strain the oyster liquor and set aside. Place the oysters and parsley in a blender and purée, adding ⅓ cup of grape-seed oil slowly to form an emulsion. Adjust the consistency with the oyster liquor and season to taste with lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the panko breadcrumbs and cook, stirring frequently, until golden and nicely toasted. Season to taste with salt and pepper and reserve on a paper towel–lined plate.
In the same skillet warm the remaining 2 tablespoons of grape-seed oil over medium-high heat and add the shrimp, cooking until golden, about 2 minutes. Turn the shrimp over, add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, and cook for 10–12 seconds; this side of the shrimp should still be cool while the other should be crisp. Remove the pan from the heat. Spoon the oyster-parsley sauce onto each plate and top with 2 shrimp. Garnish with seaweed and the breadcrumb mixture and serve immediately.
OYSTERS À LA CHARENTAISE
SERVES 4
This dish, which includes mushrooms, shallots, and dry white wine, along with the local butter (beurre des Charentes, another great type of butter), is typically found in many local oyster establishments in the Charente area.
24 shucked oysters and their liquor
Rock salt
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons minced shallot
2 cups cleaned and minced white mushrooms
2 tablespoons minced parsley
1 tablespoon flour
⅓ cup dry white wine
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Preheat the broiler.
Strain the oyster liquor (approximately ½ cup) and add to a saucepan; warm over medium heat. Add the oysters and poach for 1–2 minutes, skimming the surface as needed. Meanwhile, spread a layer of rock salt on a baking sheet and nestle the oyster shells in it. Place an oyster in each shell; pour the oyster liquor into a small bowl and reserve.
Add the butter to the same saucepan and melt over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook until translucent, 4–5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and parsley and sauté for 2–3 minutes. Add flour to the oyster liquor and whisk until smooth. Add the flour-liquor mixture to the mushrooms and stir until combined. Add the white wine, increase the heat to medium high, and bring to a simmer; cook until slightly thickened, 2–3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper, spoon sauce over each oyster, and place the baking sheet in the oven. Broil until hot and bubbling, about 1 minute.
Remove from the oven, transfer to a tray, and serve immediately.
SKILLET-FRIED OYSTERS
SERVES 4
24 shucked oysters, drained
2 medium eggs
2 tablespoons 2% milk
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 cup flour
1 cup cornmeal
Vegetable oil for frying
Lemon wedges
Hot sauce or cocktail sauce
Pat the oysters dry with paper towels and set aside. Break the eggs into a bowl, add the milk, season with salt and pepper, and whisk to combine. Place the flour and cornmeal in two separate shallow bowls (pie dishes also work well) and season both with salt and pepper.
Pour vegetable oil into a skillet to a depth of about 1 inch and heat over medium-high heat until the oil registers 375°F. Dredge one oyster in flour and shake off the excess. Dip into the egg, remove with a fork, and roll in the cornmeal until evenly coated. Shake off any excess and set on a plate. Repeat with the remaining oysters.
Carefully add the oysters in batches and cook until crisp and golden, about 2 minutes per side, depending on the size of the oysters. Be sure to monitor the temperature of the oil: If the oysters brown too fast, reduce the heat; and if they cook too slowly, increase the heat. Remove the oysters from skillet and place on a paper towel–lined plate to drain. Season with salt and serve hot with lemon wedges, hot sauce, or cocktail sauce.
OVEN-“FRIED” OYSTERS
SERVES 4
A simple recipe, but the key to superior fried oysters is to find a plump variety and fry them (in a good neutral oil for deep-frying like canola) till crunchy on the outside and silky in the center (like the soft center of a perfect omelet or soufflé).
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 lemon, cut into wedges
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Pat the oysters dry with paper towels. Brush a baking sheet with olive oil and arrange the oysters in a single layer on the sheet. Generously brush oysters with olive oil, season with salt and pepper to taste, and cook until nicely browned, about 10 minutes for small to medium oysters and 12 minutes for medium to large oysters. Remove from the oven, transfer the oysters to a tray, and serve immediately with lemon wedges.
OYSTERS WITH CHAMPAGNE
SERVES 4
This is a nostalgic dish for me and possibly my favorite “cooked oyster” recipe, though probably a pale duplication compared to the one I first tasted on one of my early visits to Les Crayères restaurant in Reims.
24 oysters on the half shell, with liquor
Rock salt
½ cup brut Champagne
2 tablespoons minced shallot
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small cubes
Salt and freshly ground pepper (optional)
Preheat the oven to 450°F.
Remove the oysters from their shells and place in a nonstick saucepan. Strain the oyster liquor and add to the saucepan. Spread a layer of rock salt on a baking sheet. Clean the shells, arrange on the salt-covered baking sheet, and set aside. Add the Champagne to the saucepan and bring to a gentle boil over medium-high heat; cook for 2 minutes, skimming the surface as needed. Remove the saucepan from the heat and place an oyster in each shell. Return the saucepan to the heat, add the shallot, and simmer over medium heat until the liquid has reduced to 4 tablespoons.
Strain the sauce into a clean saucepan and, over medium-low heat, add the butter, a few cubes at a time, whisking constantly, until all the butter has been incorporated and the sauce is emulsified.
Spoon sauce over each oyster and place the baking sheet in the oven to warm the oysters, 1–2 minutes. Remove from the oven, transfer the oysters to a tray, and serve immediately.
OYSTERS WITH CURRY SAUCE
SERVES 4
If you want to transport your taste buds to Southeast Asia, add a little curry, an amazing spice that’s good for your health.
24 oysters on the half shell
½ tablespoon unsalted butter
3 tablespoons minced shallot
2 large cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup crème fraîche
Pinch of paprika
1 tablespoon curry
Juice of half a lemon (approximately 1 tablespoon)
Preheat the broiler.
Spread a layer of rock salt on a baking sheet. Remove the oysters from their shells and strain the liquor through a sieve into a small bowl. Clean the shells, arrange on the salt-covered baking sheet, and place an oyster in each shell.
Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the strained oyster liquor, shallot, and garlic and simmer until the liquid is reduced by half. Add the crème fraîche, paprika, curry, and lemon juice, whisking until smooth. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer until slightly thickened, 2–3 minutes. Spoon sauce over each oyster and place the baking sheet under the broiler until bubbling and the edges of the oysters have just started to curl, 3–5 minutes. Remove from the oven, transfer the oysters to a tray, and serve immediately.