Stretching from the Golden Gate Bridge to the tip of the Point Reyes peninsula, Marin County is hiking nirvana: mild weather with plenty of sun but not too much heat, a jaw-dropping stretch of Pacific coast, groves of coastal redwoods, warm inland valleys highlighted by five sparkling lakes, and world-famous landmarks, such as Muir Woods. Point Reyes National Seashore appeals for solitude and a sense of remoteness, while the Marin Headlands offer views of the Golden Gate Bridge. In addition to miles of trails, you can watch for whale spouts or gape at sea lions, explore a 19th-century Chinese shrimp fishing village, tour one or two historic lighthouses, or visit an immigrant detention center. In this hiker’s paradise, an amazing array of side trips and activities awaits.
5 JEPSON, JOHNSTONE, AND BEACHES LOOP
7 ESTERO TRAIL TO SUNSET BEACH
8 SKY TRAIL AND WOODWARD VALLEY LOOP
9 COAST, FIRE LANE, AND LAGUNA LOOP
10 BEAR VALLEY TRAIL TO ARCH ROCK
12 BASS LAKE AND ALAMERE FALLS
13 KENT, GRIFFIN, AND ZUMIE LOOP TRAILS
14 CATARACT TRAIL TO CATARACT FALLS
16 BON TEMPE AND LAGUNITAS LAKE LOOP
18 BENSTEIN, MICKEY O’BRIEN, AND CATARACT LOOP
19 VERNA DUNSHEE TRAIL AND GARDNER LOOKOUT
20 MATT DAVIS AND STEEP RAVINE LOOP
21 MOUNTAIN THEATER AND WEST POINT INN LOOP
22 COASTAL, CATARACT, AND OLD MINE LOOP
23 CANOPY VIEW, LOST TRAIL, AND FERN CREEK LOOP
24 BOOTJACK, BEN JOHNSON, AND HILLSIDE TRAIL LOOP
28 COASTAL TRAIL AND HILL 88 LOOP
31 NORTH RIDGE AND SUNSET TRAIL LOOP
Point Reyes National Seashore
Best: Wildlife-Watching
Distance: 9.4 miles round-trip
Duration: 5 hours
Elevation Change: 900 feet
Effort: Moderate
Users: Hikers
Season: July-September
Passes/Fees: None
Maps: A park map is available at the Bear Valley Visitor Center (Bear Valley Road, Olema, 415/464-5100, 10am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat.-Sun.).
Contact: Point Reyes National Seashore, Point Reyes, 415/464-5100, www.nps.gov/pore
A long but mostly level walk along the northern tip of the Point Reyes peninsula, with a near guarantee of spotting herds of tule elk.
If viewing wildlife is one of the reasons you enjoy hiking, the Tomales Point Trail is sure to satisfy. You have a good chance at spotting big, furry animals before you even get out of your car (and not just the usual Point Reyes bovines).
The wildlife is abundant because Tomales Point Trail is located in Point Reyes National Seashore’s tule elk preserve. Before 1860, thousands of native tule elk roamed Tomales Point, but in the late 19th century, the animals were hunted out of existence. The creation of the preserve was the National Park Service’s attempt to reestablish the elk in their native habitat. Today Point Reyes has three thriving elk herds. About 100 roam free in the Drakes Beach area and 130 more graze near Limantour Beach. At Pierce Point, nearly 300 elk live in a fenced reserve.
Seeing the magnificent tule elk is almost a given. Frequently they’re hanging out in large numbers near the trailhead parking lot. Often you spot them as you drive in on Pierce Point Road. July-September, when the bull elk are in their “rut” and trying to round up a harem of females, you can often hear the elk bugling and may even see a couple of males sparring with a magnificent clash of antlers. On weekends during this period, volunteer docents are stationed at the trailhead and at Windy Gap, 1 mile out along the trail, with spotting scopes and binoculars for visitors to peer through.
Once you’re out on the trail, there is often plenty of other wildlife to see. If you hike early in the morning, before many other people have traipsed down the trail, check the dirt path for footprints. I’ve seen mountain lion tracks as well as more common raccoon and elk prints. While hiking, I’ve encountered large jackrabbits, various harmless snakes, big fuzzy caterpillars, and a variety of birds. Once I had to make a wide circle off the path to avoid a big skunk that was sauntering down the trail ahead of me. It was just moseying along, indifferent to my presence.
It’s 4.7 miles to the trail’s end at the tip of Tomales Point, but you don’t have to walk that far to have a great trip. Only a mile or two of hiking allows splendid coastal and Tomales Bay views, plus a probable wildlife encounter. Set your own trail distance and turn around when you please. Just make sure you pick a clear day for this trip; although you may still see tule elk in the fog, you miss out on the trail’s blue-water vistas. And be sure to carry a few extra layers. If the weather is clear, it’s almost guaranteed to be windy.
The Tomales Point Trail begins at Pierce Point Ranch, one of the oldest dairies in Point Reyes. The ranch manufactured milk and butter for San Francisco dinner tables in the 1850s. Begin hiking around the western perimeter of the ranch or take a few minutes to inspect its buildings. Interpretive signs describe the history of Pierce Point’s dairy business.
The trail curves uphill around the ranch and then heads northwest along the bluff tops toward Tomales Point, the northernmost tip of Point Reyes. The path is wide, smooth, and easy to hike from beginning to end. Wildflowers bloom profusely in the spring, typically April-June, particularly poppies, goldfields, tidy tips, and bush lupine.
At 0.5 mile out, you reach the first short climb, in which you gain about 100 feet. Turn around and look behind you as you ascend: This thin peninsula of land is bracketed by the ocean on one side and Tomales Bay on the other. On clear days, the water views are exquisite. Look for forested Hog Island in Tomales Bay, a popular pull-up spot for kayakers.
At 1.8 miles, the path starts to descend, supplying a good view of Bird Rock jutting upward from the sea, and the town and campground at Lawson’s Landing across Tomales Bay. At 2.5 miles, the trail reaches its highest point. Views of Bodega Bay and the Sonoma Coast to the north are standouts. Continuing onward, you descend to the site of an outpost of Pierce Point Ranch and then pass by windswept Bird Rock, often covered with pelicans and cormorants.
In the final 0.75 mile past Bird Rock, the trail becomes a bit sketchy. Masses of yellow bush lupine carpet the sandy soil in April and May. Amid a series of low dunes, the trail peters out and then vanishes. But the route is obvious; just keep hiking until the land runs out. You are rewarded with breathtaking views of Bodega Head to the north, Tomales Bay to the east, and the Pacific Ocean to the west. Look closely and you can discern tiny boats departing the harbor at Bodega Bay.
For a completely different hike, walk to neighboring McClures Beach, a half-mile-long cove bounded by granite cliffs. The trailhead is on the left side of Pierce Point Road just before you reach Pierce Point Ranch. A trail from the parking lot leads steeply downhill to the beach in 0.5 mile. It runs parallel to the eroding streambed of a steep ravine, which can roar with water during winter storms, but is usually just a trickle in summer. Near the end of the trail, on the left, is a fascinating stretch of sculpted sandstone and mudstone. The south end of the reef-edged beach is a prime area for tidepools, but explore carefully—the ocean waves are extremely dangerous here, so stay out of the water. During minus tides, a narrow passageway on the beach’s south end is revealed. By passing through this rock-lined gap, you gain access to another sandy beach, which is connected to McClures by a narrow peninsula of rock extending from the coastal bluffs.
Bull tule elk show off their racks at Tomales Point.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 7.5 miles. Take the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit west toward San Anselmo and drive 20 miles to the town of Olema. At Olema, turn right (north) on Highway 1 for about 150 yards and then turn left on Bear Valley Road. Drive 2.2 miles on Bear Valley Road until it joins with Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Bear left on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, drive 5.6 miles, and then take the right fork onto Pierce Point Road. Drive 9 miles to the Pierce Point Ranch parking area.
GPS Coordinates: N 38°18907’ W 122°95400’
Point Reyes National Seashore
Distance: 1-3 miles round-trip
Duration: 1-2 hours
Elevation Change: Negligible
Effort: Easy
Users: Hikers, leashed dogs
Season: Spring, late summer, and fall
Passes/Fees: None
Maps: A park map is available at the Bear Valley Visitor Center (Bear Valley Road, Olema, 415/464-5100, 10am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat.-Sun.).
Contact: Point Reyes National Seashore, Point Reyes, 415/464-5100, www.nps.gov/pore
An easy, dog-friendly trail alongside a freshwater marsh travels to the inviting sands of Kehoe Beach.
At most beaches in California, you just drive up, park your car in the paved parking lot, walk a few feet, and plop down in the sand. Kehoe Beach beats that by a mile—exactly 1 mile, in fact, because that’s how far it is to hike there (round-trip). The distance is just long enough for a pleasant, level walk, and it can be combined with another mile or so of sauntering along Kehoe’s wide strip of sandy beach.
The trail proves that the journey can be as good as the destination. The fun starts right where you park your car. In late summer, you find a huge patch of blackberries across the road from the trailhead. If you’re wearing long sleeves and long pants, you can pick enough berries to sustain you as you hike.
The trail is gravel, almost completely level, and wide enough for holding hands with your hiking partner. (Many of your trail companions are going to be of the canine persuasion, as this is one of the few trails in Point Reyes where dogs are permitted.) The trail runs alongside Kehoe Marsh, a freshwater marsh that serves as a habitat for birds and bird-watchers. Songbirds are nearly as abundant as the nonnative ice plant that weaves thick cushions of matted foliage alongside the trail. Grasses and vines grow in profusion, encouraged by the proximity of the marshy creek and its underground spring. Colorful mustard weed grows waist-high during the spring wildflower season. As you near the ocean, the wet, marshy land transforms to sandy dunes, where you may see big jackrabbits hopping among the grasses.
Before you sprint down to Kehoe’s brayed, tan sands, take the spur trail that cuts off to the right (near a wooden bench) and climb up on the bluffs above the beach. In springtime, the slope is painted bright blue and gold with prolific yellow tidy tips, blue lupine, and orange poppies. It’s a glorious sight to behold. Once you’ve admired the flowers, head to the beach to hike farther or have a picnic lunch, and then return on the same trail.
Hikers visiting with their dogs should keep in mind that although they are welcome on the trail and on the beach to the north of the trail, dogs are not permitted on the beach to the south of the trail. This rule is designed to protect the habitat of nesting snowy plovers.
If you can arrange a shuttle car, you can hike from Kehoe Beach’s trailhead to Abbotts Lagoon (see listing in this chapter), a 5-mile stretch that includes 2 miles on the beach. (If you can’t arrange a shuttle, you could always hike back on the road—it’s only 2 miles.) In spring, you’ll be treated to a fantastic wildflower display, and in fall, you have your best shot at clear, warm weather.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 7.5 miles. Take the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit west toward San Anselmo and drive 20 miles to the town of Olema. At Olema, turn right (north) on Highway 1 for about 150 yards and then turn left on Bear Valley Road. Drive 2.2 miles on Bear Valley Road until it joins with Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Bear left on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, drive 5.6 miles, and then take the right fork onto Pierce Point Road. Drive 5.5 miles to the Kehoe Beach Trailhead on your left. Park along either side of the road in the pullouts.
GPS Coordinates: N 38°15268’ W 122°93903’
Point Reyes National Seashore
Best: Bird-Watching
Distance: 2.4-6 miles round-trip
Duration: 1-3 hours
Elevation Change: Negligible
Effort: Easy
Users: Hikers, cyclists
Season: Fall, winter, and spring
Passes/Fees: None
Maps: A park map is available at the Bear Valley Visitor Center (Bear Valley Road, Olema, 415/464-5100, 10am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat.-Sun.).
Contact: Point Reyes National Seashore, Point Reyes, 415/464-5100, www.nps.gov/pore
Bring along your bird identification book for this nearly level stroll alongside a brackish lagoon.
If the wind is howling and you’ve been blown off the path on other Point Reyes trails, drive over to Abbotts Lagoon for a trip through a sheltered watery paradise. The trail itself isn’t long, but it leads to the Great Beach, where you can extend your hike for miles along the sand. The result is a memorable two-part trip: first, an easy 1.2-mile stroll through protected lagoons teeming with birdlife; second, a windswept walk to the north or south along wide-open coastline.
Abbotts Lagoon is huge—more than 200 acres—and joined by a spillway to two freshwater ponds. The lagoon is only rarely influenced by tides, specifically during the few times a year when harsh winter storms break through its low sandbar, allowing seawater to rush in. Soon thereafter, sand accumulates and seals off the lagoon, but these brief openings result in water that is continually brackish—a mix of saltwater and freshwater—and a haven for many species of birds, mammals, and plants.
The trail is a favorite with both beach lovers and bird-watchers. The latter are thrilled by the amount and diversity of bird habitat in a relatively small area; the former enjoy the level trail and easy access to the Great Beach, also known as Ten-Mile Beach or Point Reyes Beach. If you’re a birding novice and want to give the sport a try, look for these easy-to-spot species: western grebes (large, gray-and-white diving birds with a long, swanlike neck and yellow bill); pie-billed grebes (similar to western grebes but with a short, rounded bill and no white patch); coots (dark gray or black hen-like birds that skitter across the water when they fly, dragging their feet); and Caspian terns (like seagulls but more angular and elegant, with large red bills). The autumn migration season is the best time for bird-watching, although birds are present at the lagoon year-round.
The first 0.5 mile of trail is level and hard-packed for wheelchair use, and the rest of the route is wide, flat, and sandy. The landscape comprises coastal scrub and open grasslands that are gilded with wildflowers in the spring. A bucolic-looking white farmhouse, perched on a distant hillside, keeps watch over the scene.
At 1 mile out, just before you cross a small footbridge that separates the two parts of the lagoon, a spur trail leads up the hillside to the left. Take this spur and climb to the top of the bluff. High on this grassy knoll is the best spot to gain perspective on the immense size of Abbotts Lagoon and its distinctive two-part shape. It’s also an idyllic spot to bird-watch, picnic, or just admire the beauty of the place. West of the lagoon, bright white ocean waves crash on the sandy beach. To the north, the lagoon is edged by a series of sand dunes.
A footbridge across Abbotts Lagoon leads hikers to the sand dunes and beyond to the Pacific Ocean.
If you want to hike along the Great Beach, walk back downhill to the footbridge and follow the trail that leads west from the lagoon to the ocean, only 0.25 mile away. Or you can just trek across the sand dunes, but watch your step amid the many fragile dune plants—yellow bush lupines, beach strawberry, morning glories, and yellow sand verbena.
Beach explorers should bundle up in an extra layer of clothing, as the coast is much windier than the protected lagoon, and then head north or south and walk as long and far as desired. Harbor seals and sea lions often haul out on the Great Beach’s sand.
The April and May wildflower season brings colorful shows of poppies and lupine along the Abbotts Lagoon Trail. Also look for cobweb thistle, a native thistle that is brilliant red, and prolific Douglas iris. If you miss the bloom, another good time to visit Abbotts Lagoon is on a late fall or winter day, when the fog has vanished and the rich, primary colors of water, sky, and grasslands are thoroughly saturated by the low light of the season.
Another superior bird-watching trail is found nearby at Bull Point. Backtrack on Pierce Point Road to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, turn right (southwest, toward the lighthouse), and drive 5 miles to the Bull Point Trailhead. The 1.9-mile, level trail cuts across the coastal bluffs to a high overlook above Drakes Estero.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 7.5 miles. Take the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit west toward San Anselmo and drive 20 miles to the town of Olema. At Olema, turn right (north) on Highway 1 for about 150 yards and then turn left on Bear Valley Road. Drive 2.2 miles on Bear Valley Road until it joins with Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Bear left on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, drive 5.6 miles, and then take the right fork onto Pierce Point Road. Drive 3.3 miles on Pierce Point Road to the Abbotts Lagoon Trailhead on the left side of the road.
GPS Coordinates: N 38°12342’ W 122°93533’
Point Reyes National Seashore
Distance: 2.4 miles round-trip
Duration: 1.5 hours
Elevation Change: 300 feet
Effort: Easy
Users: Hikers, cyclists
Season: Year-round
Passes/Fees: None
Maps: A park map is available at the Bear Valley Visitor Center (Bear Valley Road, Olema, 415/464-5100, 10am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat.-Sun.).
Contact: Point Reyes National Seashore, Point Reyes, 415/464-5100, www.nps.gov/pore
An easy trail travels to a picturesque beach on the calmer, warmer, Tomales Bay side of the Point Reyes peninsula.
The Marshall Beach Trail is one of the best-kept secrets in Point Reyes. Few visitors know about Marshall Beach, because the trailhead is situated on a dirt road to nowhere, at the northeastern tip of the Point Reyes peninsula. Although thousands of visitors pour into neighboring Tomales Bay State Park for its protected bay waters and stunning white beaches, few realize that right next door is Marshall Beach, with all the same advantages but none of the crowds and no entrance fee.
On your first trip to the Marshall Beach trailhead, you may question whether you are going the right way. The route leads through dairy cow country, with no sign of the coast in sight. Soon the paved road turns to dirt, and you continue driving through grassy prairie until you reach a nondescript parking area (really a grassy flat) and a large metal gate. Beyond the gate lies the trail, a dirt road that requires a vigilant lookout for “cow droppings.” The unwary discover that the stuff clings to their boot soles for days.
Have you ever wondered why there are so many cows in this national park? Ranching is considered to be part of the “cultural history” of Point Reyes: Cattle and dairy ranches have operated in the area since the 1850s. The 1962 law that authorized Point Reyes National Seashore made allowances so that the original ranch owners could continue operating within the park’s boundaries. Currently, the park houses six viable dairies, milking about 3,200 cows and producing more than five million gallons of milk each year. Just wave and smile at Bessie as you walk to the beach.
The hike to Marshall Beach is a simple out and back, with no trail junctions. Just amble down the wide ranch road, which makes a curving descent to the water’s edge. There is no shade along the route, except at the edge of Marshall Beach’s cove, where a few windswept cypress trees stand guard. Thick lichen hangs from their branches.
Marshall Beach is a nearly perfect beach, with coarse white sand bordering the azure-blue water of Tomales Bay. Largely protected from the wind by Inverness Ridge, this small slice of paradise overlooks the hamlet of Marshall on the far side of the bay. The most common visitors to the beach are kayakers who paddle over from Marshall, Inverness, or Tomales Bay State Park to the south. Other hikers are rare. On warm days, the calm bay water beckons swimmers.
Essentials for this trip include a picnic, a bathing suit, a good book, and some binoculars for bird-watching. Settle in for a perfect afternoon and then drag yourself away—and back up the hill—when it’s time to leave.
If you like the look of Tomales Bay from Marshall Beach, take a drive over to its opposite side and hike on the Tomales Bay Trail. The trailhead is found 1.8 miles north of the town of Point Reyes Station on Highway 1. The mostly level, easy trail passes a couple of freshwater ponds on its way to the southern edge of Tomales Bay, where the bay makes the transition from a large, open water body to narrow creeks, channels, and wetland marshes. At the trail’s end, 1 mile out, you’ll find old railroad trestles and the remains of a lock system on a levee that is no longer used. In the early 1900s, the North Pacific Coast Railroad cut through this marsh.
The calm waters of Tomales Bay invite swimmers on warm summer days and kayakers year-round.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 7.5 miles. Take the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit west toward San Anselmo and drive 20 miles to the town of Olema. At Olema, turn right (north) on Highway 1 for about 150 yards and then turn left on Bear Valley Road. Drive 2.2 miles on Bear Valley Road until it joins with Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Bear left on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, drive 5.6 miles, then take the right fork onto Pierce Point Road. In 1.2 miles you see the entrance road for Tomales Bay State Park. Continue just beyond it to Duck Cove/Marshall Beach Road; turn right and drive 2.6 miles. The road turns to gravel and dirt; stay to the left where it forks. Park in the flat, grassy area by the metal trailhead gate.
GPS Coordinates: N 38°15410’ W 122°91965’
Tomales Bay State Park
Distance: 4.2 miles round-trip
Duration: 2 hours
Elevation Change: 500 feet
Effort: Easy/moderate
Users: Hikers
Season: Year-round
Passes/Fees: $8 day-use per vehicle
Maps: A park map is available at the entrance kiosk or at www.parks.ca.gov.
Contact: Tomales Bay State Park, 1208 Pierce Point Rd., Inverness, 415/669-1140, www.parks.ca.gov
Spend a day at three separate beaches along the shores of Tomales Bay and visit a virgin grove of Bishop pines.
Tomales Bay State Park is 2,200 acres of white sandy beaches, sparkling bay waters, and dense forests filled with botanical marvels. Most visitors come to the park for its easy access to Tomales Bay, a large, sheltered cove that is blessed by unusually balmy weather (unusual for this region of western Marin). Protected by Inverness Ridge, Tomales Bay is often sunny and warm even when the nearby coast is foggy or windy. The bay waters are usually gentle enough for swimming, an activity that is nearly impossible at the turbulent beaches of neighboring Point Reyes. When the sun shines, the water of Tomales Bay turns an exquisite light blue, making the white-sand beaches look like a tropical paradise.
Hikers will find still more treasures at the park. A loop route starting from Heart’s Desire Beach follows Johnstone Trail to secluded Pebble Beach, gently climbs to a junction with Jepson Trail, and drops back down through a unique forest of Bishop pines. Both legs of the loop are set in a forest so tangled with curving tree branches, huckleberry vines, wax myrtle, toyon, and ferns that you can often see only a few feet ahead of you. When the loop returns to Heart’s Desire Beach, it’s possible to add on a short out-and-back walk to Indian Beach.
Start your trip at the south side of Heart’s Desire Beach, at the trail sign for Johnstone Trail. Leave the beach-towel and cooler-toting crowds behind as you travel through a forest of oaks, bay, and madrone, gaining frequent views of Tomales Bay through the trees. Pass by Vista Point Group Picnic Area and its stunning view of Heart’s Desire Beach and Tomales Bay. At 0.5 mile out, watch for a sign pointing left to the restrooms, where the Johnstone Trail turns right. This spur trail descends to Pebble Beach, a small and secluded curve of beach composed of tiny—guess what?—pebbles. Because it can only be accessed by trail, Pebble Beach usually has significantly fewer visitors than Heart’s Desire Beach. Narrow and only 100 yards long, the scenic cove is backed by a small marsh. Across the bay and to the south, the predominant landform is Black Mountain at 1,280 feet.
After your beach visit, return to the main trail and head uphill on Johnstone Trail. Note the pink lichen growing on the bark of broad oak trees near Pebble Beach. Johnstone Trail winds gradually upward for 1.5 miles, passing through several wet, marshy areas on small wooden bridges. After crossing a private road, it meets up with Jepson Trail, on which you turn right. In a few footsteps, you cross the private road again. (A small parking area is located near here, at the private road’s junction with Pierce Point Road. Hikers who don’t want to park in the Heart’s Desire area could start their trip from this parking lot and avoid paying the state park entrance fee.)
Magnificent bay laurel trees form arches over the Jepson Trail.
Jepson Trail makes a more direct descent to Tomales Bay. The trail passes through a virgin grove of Bishop pines, which bear gracefully sculpted limbs and weatherworn trunks. Cousins of the Monterey pine, Bishop pines belong to the family of pines that requires the extreme heat of fire to break open their cones and disperse their seeds. As such, these pines do not reproduce often. Bishop pines are relatively uncommon along the California coast, but Tomales Bay and Point Reyes have healthy stands of them.
Jepson Trail deposits you at the parking lot for the Vista Point Group Picnic Area. Cross it, enter the picnic area, and turn left on Johnstone Trail to head back to Heart’s Desire Beach. Then cross to the north side of Heart’s Desire and pick up the Indian Nature Trail to Indian Beach (located alongside the restrooms). The path is a 0.5-mile interpretive trail with signs identifying various plants and trees and their uses by the coastal Miwok tribe. You might be surprised to learn that the Miwok used poison oak to tattoo their skin.
Stay to the right at the fork; climb gently and then descend to Indian Beach, an inviting strip of sand that separates an inland marsh from Tomales Bay. Two tall, bark-covered kotchas stand guard at the beach; they are replicas of Miwok dwellings.
Birds and wildlife are plentiful both in the marsh and along the shoreline. On one trip, we stood on the footbridge over the marsh and watched a group of bat rays just below our feet in the ocean-bound stream. The rays hovered in the water, moving their fins just enough to hold steady their position in the current while they fed on tiny organisms in the creek.
It’s possible to cross the bridge at Indian Beach’s north end and loop back to Heart’s Desire Beach on a dirt service road, but the more scenic route is to retrace your steps on the Indian Nature Trail.
To lengthen this trip, add on an out-and-back hike to Shell Beach. Follow the first leg of the trip as described, but at the junction of Johnstone and Jepson Trails, turn left to stay on Johnstone Trail for the 2.7-mile distance to Shell Beach. The beach is as lovely as Heart’s Desire, Pebble, and Indian, and it’s a particular favorite of swimmers. This out-and-back excursion adds 5.4 miles to your day’s total. If you want to see Shell Beach without a long walk, you can access it via a 0.25-mile stroll from a parking lot at the end of Camino del Mar (near the junction of Pierce Point Road and Sir Francis Drake Boulevard).
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 7.5 miles. Take the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit west toward San Anselmo and drive 20 miles to the town of Olema. At Olema, turn right (north) on Highway 1 for about 150 yards and then turn left on Bear Valley Road. Drive 2.2 miles on Bear Valley Road until it joins with Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Bear left on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, drive 5.6 miles, and then take the right fork onto Pierce Point Road. Drive 1.2 miles to the access road for Tomales Bay State Park. Turn right and drive 1 mile down the park road. Turn left and park at the Heart’s Desire Beach parking lot. Johnstone Trail begins at the south end of the beach.
GPS Coordinates: N 38°13183’ W 122°89377’
Point Reyes National Seashore
Best: Wildflower Displays, Wildlife-Watching
Distance: 1.4 miles round-trip
Duration: 1 hour
Elevation Change: Negligible
Effort: Easy
Users: Hikers, cyclists
Season: Spring
Passes/Fees: None
Maps: A park map is available at the Bear Valley Visitor Center (Bear Valley Road, Olema, 415/464-5100, 10am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat.-Sun.).
Contact: Point Reyes National Seashore, Point Reyes, 415/464-5100, www.nps.gov/pore
Windswept Chimney Rock is one of Marin County’s most celebrated spots for admiring spring wildflowers and waving hello to passing gray whales.
If you like wildflowers, whale-watching, and ocean views, there may be no better springtime hike in Point Reyes than the Chimney Rock Trail. Every year, late March-early June, colorful wildflowers carpet the rugged coastal bluffs that lead to an overlook of Chimney Rock, an offshore sea stack. This is one of the best flower displays in all of Point Reyes. December-May you’re likely to see elephant seals on the beaches below Chimney Rock and on nearby Drakes Beach, or you may spot the spouts (or fins, or backs, or tails) of gray whales out at sea. Adding to the trail’s attractions is a tidepool area at a rocky cove near the parking lot, offering visitors at low tide a chance to inspect the contents of the sea.
The best trip on the Chimney Rock Trail is achieved with some planning. First, know that the wind can blow fiercely here, especially in the afternoon. Although the first half of the trail is on the sheltered side of the headland that faces Drakes Bay, the second half extends onto the thin peninsula of land that separates Drakes Bay from the Pacific Ocean. At the point where the bay and ocean meet, you find Chimney Rock—and frequently, a howling wind. Make sure you dress for it. On the positive side, this trail is usually not as windy as at nearby Point Reyes Lighthouse, if that’s any consolation. Plan a morning trip if possible and wear a jacket that deflects the wind.
From the trailhead parking lot, head straight for the Chimney Rock Trail or take a couple of short, worthwhile detours. The detours require a brief descent on the paved road that continues beyond the parking lot. In a few hundred feet, you come to a dirt trail on the left signed for Elephant Seal Overlook. Follow it, go through a cattle gate, walk about 200 yards, and then come out to a fenced overlook with a view of the southern tip of Drakes Beach. This is where elephant seals haul out in the winter and spring months, creating a tremendous cacophony of barking and snorting. Although you are a few hundred feet away from the seals, you can clearly see them brawling with each other and watch their strange, jerking movements as they go from sand to sea and back.
Elephant seals started to colonize the beaches in Point Reyes in 1981, and the annual seal population has expanded to more than 1,500 individuals. (Elephant seals were nearly extinct from hunting by the year 1900; their comeback in the last century has been remarkable.) The huge male elephant seals arrive in late November to claim the best spots on the beaches; the pregnant females come to shore 2-3 weeks later to give birth and breed. In a few months, the seals disappear back into the ocean and are usually not seen again until the following winter.
After watching the seals’ antics, continue down the paved road to see the Point Reyes Lifeboat Station, which was built in 1927 and operated until 1968. Despite the proximity of the Point Reyes Lighthouse, many shipwrecks occurred along the Point Reyes peninsula, and the daring crews at the lifeboat station had the job of rescuing survivors. Just beyond the lifeboat station is a rocky beach that is laden with exposed tidepools at low tide. (The daily status of the tides is posted at the Bear Valley, Lighthouse, and Drakes Beach Visitor Centers and printed in local newspapers.)
With these detours completed, you’re ready for the main event: the Chimney Rock Trail. The path is a narrow dirt trail leading from the restrooms at the trailhead parking lot. The route crosses grassy headlands, first along sheltered Drakes Bay, where you can see the tall white cliffs that mark Drakes Beach. Then the trail climbs briefly to the top of the narrow bluffs that divide Drakes Bay from the sea. If it’s a windy day, you’ll feel it here.
At 0.4 mile, you see a faint trail leading off to the right; this path travels 0.1 mile to an overlook of the Point Reyes Headlands Reserve and the Farallon Islands, 20 miles away. The main trail continues another 0.3 mile to a fenced overlook of multiple sea stacks, the largest of which is Chimney Rock. It’s impossible to see the rock’s “chimney” from here, although you can see it clearly from the south end of Drakes Beach.
Chimney Rock is found at the end of a narrow, windswept peninsula.
On a clear day, this overlook is a choice spot to look for passing gray whales. Because the land you’re standing on juts out so far from the mainland, whales often pass by quite close to Chimney Rock—sometimes only a few hundred yards offshore. Occasionally they enter Drakes Bay and hang around for a while. Even if you don’t spot one, you are still rewarded with stellar ocean views. A small beach just to the left of the trail’s end is the temporary winter home of a group of elephant seals, which you can hear barking and making a ruckus. Do not attempt to descend to any of the beaches near Chimney Rock; the cliffs are steep, rugged, and unstable.
Wildflower lovers, take note: In addition to the more common flowers, such as poppies, owl’s clover, tidy tips, lupine, checkerbloom, mule’s ears, paintbrush, Douglas iris, and footsteps-of-spring, that you can find along the trail, look for the rarer pussy’s ears near the end of the Chimney Rock Trail. They are light purple or white and somewhat furry, as you might expect.
If you’ve driven all the way out to Chimney Rock, you should certainly pay a visit to the nearby Point Reyes Lighthouse. Make sure you time your trip carefully; the stairs to the lighthouse are open only 10am-4:30pm Friday-Monday. The short walk to reach it (less than 0.5 mile in length) might not be considered a hike except for the fact that you must climb more than 300 steps on your return trip. The lighthouse is perched on a dramatic coastal promontory that has a reputation for being the windiest and foggiest spot on the entire West Coast. A small museum and a visitors center (415/669-1534) present a fascinating glimpse into our coastal history.
Beach lovers should pay a visit to North Beach and South Beach off Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. If the wind is howling at these scenic stretches of sand, head to Drakes Beach on the opposite side of the highway, which faces the calmer waters of Drakes Bay. Although Drakes Beach is often popular and crowded, it is easy enough to get away from everybody by simply hiking eastward (left) from the parking lot.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 7.5 miles. Take the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit west toward San Anselmo and drive 20 miles to the town of Olema. At Olema, turn right (north) on Highway 1 for about 150 yards and then turn left on Bear Valley Road. Drive 2.2 miles on Bear Valley Road until it joins with Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Bear left on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard and drive 17.6 miles to the left turnoff for Chimney Rock. Turn left and drive 0.9 mile to the trailhead and parking area.
Note: During peak whale-watching season (from the last Saturday in December through mid-April), the Park Service usually requires visitors to ride a shuttle bus from Drakes Beach to the Chimney Rock Trailhead on weekends and holidays (on weekdays, you can drive your own car). There is a $5 fee per person.
GPS Coordinates: N 37°99517’ W 122°97960’
Point Reyes National Seashore
Best: Bird-Watching
Distance: 7.8 miles round-trip
Duration: 4 hours
Elevation Change: 720 feet
Effort: Moderate
Users: Hikers, cyclists
Season: Year-round
Passes/Fees: None
Maps: A park map is available at the Bear Valley Visitor Center (Bear Valley Road, Olema, 415/464-5100, 10am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat.-Sun.).
Contact: Point Reyes National Seashore, Point Reyes, 415/464-5100, www.nps.gov/pore
Water-view hiking alongside Home Bay and Drakes Estero leads to a small, secluded beach.
Hiking the Estero Trail to Sunset Beach is a quintessential Point Reyes experience. It’s full of good surprises, including an exemplary display of Douglas iris in spring, a thick forest of Monterey pines, abundant bird sightings, nearly nonstop views of estuary, bay, and ocean, and access to pristine Sunset Beach. Plus, the 7.8-mile round-trip distance is the perfect length for a not-too-strenuous day hike.
The trail leads from the signboard at the Estero parking lot and crosses a grassy hillside, with little or no indication of what lies ahead. As you hike, look over your left shoulder to observe the hillsides of Inverness Ridge. The trail rounds a corner and descends into a dense stand of Monterey pines, the remainders of an old Christmas tree farm. After you spend another few minutes walking through the trees, the trail opens out to blue, serene Home Bay, exactly 1 mile from the trailhead.
Walk across the footbridge on the edge of the bay. You are surrounded by bay water if the tide is in or by mudflats if the tide is out. White egrets that nest in the tall Monterey pines are commonly seen fishing here. On the bridge’s far side, the trail rises above Home Bay and crests its first hill. At its peak, you see where Home Bay opens into much larger Drakes Estero. The view is dependent on the tide, with low tides bringing the most unusual perspective. When the bulk of the seawater recedes, mazelike patterns appear in the mudflats, crisscrossed by thin channels of moving water. Even if the tide is high, wide blue-water views are a pleasure for the eyes.
Shortly you drop downhill and then cross another levee in yet another protected cove. The undulating trail continues its up-and-down meander as it parallels the edge of Drakes Estero, a wide expanse of azure blue. You enjoy nonstop water views as well as nonstop bouquets of Douglas iris in spring. The lavish, sky-blue blooms decorate the grasslands in April and May.
You’ll climb and descend a total of three hills on this trail; the third is marked by a lone eucalyptus tree on its summit. Near its base, the leafless, pink lilies known as “naked ladies” (belladonna lilies) bloom in profusion in August.
Chances are good that you will spot some wildlife. Waterfowl and shorebirds can be seen up close every time the trail dips down to the water’s edge. On one trip, I spotted an immense great blue heron, slowly beating its wings and taking off from the ground like a huge, mythical creature. Another time I watched from above as hundreds of bat rays were feeding in the low-tide waters. Occasionally, the tips of their “wings” would poke above the surface as they hovered to stay in position.
Both native black-tailed deer and a few remaining nonnative fallow (white) deer frequent this section of the park. Although the white deer were once more common in Point Reyes, they are slowly being eradicated by the National Park Service through the administration of contraceptives. The entire population has been rendered sterile; the existing fallow deer will live out their lives by about 2020, and then no future generations will be born.
Unfortunately, a plethora of cows are also found along this trail, and the Park Service supports their presence in Point Reyes as part of the “cultural history” of this area. They seem heavy, awkward, and overbearing in this pastoral setting. In the wet months, their hooves make a rutted, muddy mess out of the ranch road/trail. Wear good boots.
At 2.4 miles out, you reach a trail sign for Drakes Head to the left and Sunset Beach straight ahead. Continuing straight on Sunset Beach Trail, the route levels out, passing more patches of springtime Douglas iris. At 1.5 miles from the junction, a large pond separates you from the edge of the bay. Although the freshwater pond in the foreground is calm and still, you can hear the roaring ocean waves ahead. Hike around the pond’s left side, following the trail as it becomes narrower and often muddier. (Don’t be tempted to head inland into the coastal scrub to bypass the mud. The brushy areas are lined with poison oak.)
In 0.25 mile, you reach the place where Drakes Estero empties into the sea. Beautiful Sunset Beach, littered with sculpted sandstone boulders and black crabs scurrying between the rocks, is to your left in about 200 yards. A sandy stretch can be easily accessed when the tide is low. On many days, you can hear the barking of sea lions hauled out on Limantour Spit just across the way. In this special place, it’s not unusual for a flotilla of white pelicans to float past like a beautiful mirage.
Sandstone boulders come in all shapes and sizes at Sunset Beach.
If you are hiking this trail on a very clear day in Point Reyes, take the left turnoff for Drakes Head at the 2.4-mile mark. Head uphill for 0.7 mile, still on Estero Trail, and then turn right on Drakes Head Trail at a maze of fences and a large cattle coral. The 1.4-mile trail leads to the edge of the headlands high above the Estero de Limantour. Views from this high perch at land’s edge extend out across Limantour Spit and along the length of Drakes Bay. Many hikers consider this to be one of the finest vantage points in all of Point Reyes. It is not uncommon to see sea lions, white pelicans, egrets, and scores of other birds.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 7.5 miles. Take the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit west toward San Anselmo and drive 20 miles to the town of Olema. At Olema, turn right (north) on Highway 1 for about 150 yards and then turn left on Bear Valley Road. Drive 2.2 miles on Bear Valley Road until it joins with Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Bear left on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard and drive 7.6 miles to the left turnoff for the Estero Trailhead. Turn left and drive 1 mile to the trailhead parking area.
GPS Coordinates: N 38°08167’ W 122°91415’
Point Reyes National Seashore
Best: Short Backpacking Trips
Distance: 13.6 miles round-trip
Duration: 7 hours
Elevation Change: 1,600 feet
Effort: Strenuous
Users: Hikers
Season: Year-round
Passes/Fees: None
Maps: A park map is available at the Bear Valley Visitor Center (Bear Valley Road, Olema, 415/464-5100, 10am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat.-Sun.).
Contact: Point Reyes National Seashore, Point Reyes, 415/464-5100, www.nps.gov/pore
This “sampler” loop hike serves up the best of Point Reyes in one long, rewarding day.
There are so many trailheads in Point Reyes National Seashore, and so many trails to choose from, that it can be hard to decide how to spend your time in the park. Here’s a long day hike that offers a sampler of the best of Point Reyes, including access to two of the park’s most exquisite beaches and some of its loveliest forests and meadows. Start your trip early in the day so you have plenty of time to kick back at this trip’s main destinations, Kelham and Sculptured Beaches, both superlative stretches of sand and rock.
From the trailhead, follow Sky Trail, a wide dirt road with an initially steep grade, through a forest of Douglas firs. In early spring, the road is lined with dense clusters of light blue forget-me-nots (look for their yellow centers), which thrive in the shade and rich soil here. At a tight curve in the road, where a wooden railing lines the right side, the trees open up sufficiently to allow a clear view to the west of Limantour Beach and Drakes Bay. Less than a half hour from your car, you arrive at Sky Camp, where water and restrooms are available. Overnighters should drop their packs at their chosen site, while day hikers simply continue along Sky Trail for another 4.6 miles all the way to the coast. Much of the route is pleasantly forested, and it’s not uncommon to run into a deer or two along this leg. Also look for four-foot-tall blooming foxgloves in the early spring months. Their showy blossoms are usually white, purple, or pink.
The final stretch of Sky Trail opens out to wide, inspiring views of the coast—you can see all the way to the Farallon Islands on clear days—and after zigzagging downhill for 1.5 miles, you find yourself at a junction with Coast Trail. Turn right and walk 0.5 mile to the Kelham Beach turnoff (marked by a giant eucalyptus tree and a horse-hitching post, but no trail sign). Follow a narrow, unmaintained spur trail to the beach and enjoy lunch and some playtime on this gorgeous stretch of sand backed by colorful cliffs. Then backtrack to Coast Trail and continue north for 2.5 miles to the Sculptured Beach turnoff. Follow the spur trail down to the water’s edge and check out this aptly named beach, which is graced by a series of sandstone boulders, cliffs, arches, and tunnels that have been eroded by the forces of wind and ocean. If you arrive at Sculptured Beach during a very low or minus tide, you can explore the beach to the south, which has some fascinating carved sandstone formations. However, if you arrive during high tide, you may wonder what all the fuss is about.
It’s usually difficult to say good-bye to Sculptured Beach, but if the afternoon sun is waning, retrace your steps back to Coast Trail and continue north 0.5 mile to the right turnoff for Woodward Valley Trail. A 2-mile climb up the coastal bluffs (the ascent is not nearly as difficult as it appears from the bottom) followed by a woodsy walk through beautiful Woodward Valley brings you back to Sky Trail, where you simply turn left to head back to your car. And so, with a long, deep sigh, here ends another fine day in Point Reyes.
It’s possible to convert this day hike into a backpacking trip with an overnight stay at Sky Camp (www.recreation.gov, $20), one of four hike-in camps in the park. Because the camp is so close to Sky Trailhead (only 1.3 miles), you can dump off your heavy pack early in the hike and then spend the rest of the day traveling light. Those who want to stay at Sky Camp must obtain a permit from the Bear Valley Visitor Center (Bear Valley Road, Olema, 415/464-5100, 10am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat.-Sun.).
The Sky Trail leads through dense forest to the coast.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 7.5 miles. Take the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit west toward San Anselmo and drive 20 miles to the town of Olema. At Olema, turn right (north) on Highway 1 for about 150 yards and then turn left on Bear Valley Road. Drive 1.7 miles on Bear Valley Road and then turn left on Limantour Road. Drive 3.4 miles on Limantour Road to the Sky Trailhead on the left. Turn left and park in the lot. Begin hiking on the gated dirt road.
GPS Coordinates: N 38°05491’ W 122°83804’
Point Reyes National Seashore
Best: Short Backpacking Trips
Distance: 5 miles round-trip
Duration: 2.5 hours
Elevation Change: 450 feet
Effort: Easy/moderate
Users: Hikers, cyclists (on Coast Trail only)
Season: Year-round
Passes/Fees: None
Maps: A park map is available at the Bear Valley Visitor Center (Bear Valley Road, Olema, 415/464-5100, 10am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat.-Sun.).
Contact: Point Reyes National Seashore, Point Reyes, 415/464-5100, www.nps.gov/pore
A pleasant hike over the coastal hills leads to Santa Maria Beach, where you can choose to spend the night at Coast Camp.
Short of driving your car to Limantour Beach, one of the easiest ways to access a prime stretch of Point Reyes beachfront property is to take a walk on the Coast Trail.
It’s also one of the prettiest ways to get there. The Coast Trail departs across the road from the Point Reyes Hostel, skirts the edge of a marshy alder forest, passes a duck-covered pond, and then turns south and parallels the ocean for another mile to Coast Camp, a popular backpacking camp. A superlative loop can be made by connecting Coast Trail (2.8 miles to Coast Camp) with Fire Lane and Laguna Trails (1.8 miles back to the trailhead), allowing plenty of time to explore the inviting stretch of sand near Coast Camp known as Santa Maria Beach. Or, if you prefer, do the loop in reverse, saving the easier but longer Coast Trail for last. Both ways are equally pleasant.
The National Park Service reintroduced tule elk to this region of the park in 1999, and a small herd wanders the hillsides near Limantour Road. You may see elk here, although you have a much greater chance at Pierce Point Ranch and along the Tomales Point Trail (see listing in this chapter) in the northern region of the park, where the elk population is much larger.
Starting from the Point Reyes Hostel, the walking is easy on Coast Trail’s wide, dirt road, following a slight downhill grade to the coast. When you reach the shoreline, you can head straight for the sand and continue walking southeast, but first-timers beware: It is difficult to spot the trail to Coast Camp from the beach from this direction. The no-fail route is to stay on Coast Trail for another 1.1 miles to Coast Camp. Backpackers who wish to reserve a spot at the 14-site campground must obtain a permit from Point Reyes headquarters. Advance reservations ($20) are available through www.recreation.gov and are necessary, especially in summer.
At Coast Camp, a narrow foot trail leads from near the restrooms to Santa Maria Beach. Once on the sand, your options are open in either direction—north toward Limantour Beach or south toward Sculptured Beach—with miles of uninterrupted shoreline between. Or, if you’re tired of walking, just flop down in the sand.
Beautiful Santa Maria Beach is found adjacent to Coast Camp on Point Reyes’s Coast Trail.
For your return trip, take Fire Lane Trail north from Coast Camp for 1 mile to a junction with Laguna Trail. You face a substantial climb; keep turning around to check out the ocean views as you gain elevation. At the junction, bear left on Laguna Trail and hike 0.8 mile back to the Laguna Trailhead adjacent to a park ranger’s residence, where your car is waiting.
For a completely different hike in the same neighborhood, follow Muddy Hollow Trail to Limantour Beach and then walk along the windswept dunes of Limantour Spit. At the turnoff for the Point Reyes Hostel on Limantour Road, turn right (west) instead of left (east) and drive 0.5 mile to the Muddy Hollow Trailhead. Muddy Hollow Trail leads 1.7 miles to Limantour Beach, passing two bird-filled ponds along the way. At the entrance to the beach, head down to the sand and turn right to hike along Limantour Spit. An out and back along this route makes a 6- to 8-mile round-trip, depending on how far you follow the narrow spit. Note that this hike is best done in summer or fall; in the rainy months, Muddy Hollow Trail is sometimes closed because of wet conditions.
Backpackers can get a permit to spend the night at Coast Camp, but if you don’t want to sleep in a tent, the Point Reyes Hostel (390 Limantour Spit Rd., Point Reyes Station, 415/663-8811, www.norcalhostels.org/reyes) offers dormitory-style accommodations in the national park. The hostel has two historic ranch buildings plus a new LEED Gold-certified sustainable building. All guests have access to a fully equipped kitchen. Dorm-style rooms start at $35 per night; private rooms are also available.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 7.5 miles. Take the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit west toward San Anselmo and drive 20 miles to the town of Olema. At Olema, turn right (north) on Highway 1 for about 150 yards and then turn left on Bear Valley Road. Drive 1.7 miles on Bear Valley Road and then turn left on Limantour Road. Drive 5.9 miles on Limantour Road to the left turnoff for the Point Reyes Hostel. Turn left, drive 0.5 mile (past the hostel), and park in the lot on the right (Laguna Trailhead). Then walk back up the road 0.3 mile, passing the hostel again. Begin hiking on the dirt road just west of (and across the road from) the hostel. The road is signed as Coast Trail to Coast Camp.
GPS Coordinates: N 38°04457’ W 122°85666’
Point Reyes National Seashore
Distance: 8.2 miles round-trip
Duration: 4 hours
Elevation Change: 400 feet
Effort: Easy/moderate
Users: Hikers, cyclists (on the first 3.2 miles of Bear Valley Trail)
Season: Winter
Passes/Fees: None
Maps: A park map is available at the Bear Valley Visitor Center (Bear Valley Road, Olema, 415/464-5100, 10am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat.-Sun.).
Contact: Point Reyes National Seashore, Point Reyes, 415/464-5100, www.nps.gov/pore
Point Reyes’s most popular trail follows an easy grade from lush Bear Valley to dramatic Arch Rock, a precipitous bluff-top overlook.
The Bear Valley Trail is far and away the most well known and busiest trail in Point Reyes, and for that reason alone many serious hikers avoid it. They fear the crowds at the trailhead, the noise of other chitchatting trail users, and the probable lack of peace in a place as sacred as Point Reyes.
But bypassing the Bear Valley Trail is a big mistake. The trailside scenery is sublime. The easy grade makes it suitable for a family hiking (or biking) trip. And arriving at the trailhead before 9am assures you of some solitude along the route, even on weekends. Winter is the best season for fewer crowds, and the trail is loveliest then, when the streams are running full and the ferns are in full leafy display.
The trail is simple to follow. It begins as a wide dirt road just beyond the Bear Valley Visitor Center and Morgan Horse Ranch. Several trails junction with Bear Valley Trail; stay on the wide, main road and meander your way through a mixed bay and Douglas fir forest, following the path of Bear Valley Creek. Ferns of many kinds adorn the creek’s banks, including delicate five-finger ferns. There’s a slight uphill grade in the first mile, but the entire route never gains or loses more than 200 feet in elevation.
At 1.5 miles from the trailhead, you reach the edge of large Divide Meadow, a tranquil spot for a rest or a picnic on your return trip. Deer are often sighted here. Divide Meadow marks the divide in this valley: Bear Valley Creek, which flows north, is left behind, but soon the trail parallels Coast Creek, which flows south all the way to the sea. Forest, ferns, and lush streamside foliage keep you in good company as you forge onward. In late spring (typically June), buckeye trees along this stretch bloom with fragrant white flower clusters. In early spring (typically April), the trail is bordered by a profusion of blue forget-me-nots and tasty miner’s lettuce, which thrive in these shady growing conditions.
At 3.2 miles, you reach a junction of trails and a bike rack. (Bikes are allowed on Bear Valley Trail only to this point.) Glen Trail leads to the left and Baldy Trail to the right, but simply continue straight on Bear Valley Trail. Although at present you are deep in the forest, surrounded by alder, bay laurel, and Douglas fir, you soon leave the shade. In another 0.5 mile, the trail opens out to coastal marshlands and chaparral, and the ocean appears straight ahead.
A visit to well-named Sculptured Beach is one of the highlights of this long loop hike.
Nearing the sea, Bear Valley Trail splits off as it meets up with Coast Trail. A sign announces that the spur trail to Arch Rock is officially closed. This coastal promontory has long been one of the most popular spots in Point Reyes, but in 2015, a portion of the Arch Rock overlook collapsed, killing one person and injuring another. Because of the instability of these cliffs, the Park Service officially closed the trail. You can still walk to the top of what remains of Arch Rock, but keep a respectful distance from cliff edges and fissures. You can also follow a spur trail along Coast Creek, which cuts a deep gorge as it travels to the beach.
For an epic day hike in Point Reyes National Seashore, add the Old Pine, Woodward Valley, and Coast Trails for a strenuous loop hike of 13 miles. At Divide Meadow, turn right on Old Pine Trail, a narrow footpath. Climb steadily for 1.5 miles, then descend for just less than 0.5 mile. At a trail junction, turn right on Sky Trail. After only 0.3 mile, you meet up with Woodward Valley Trail, where you turn left and follow the trail for 2 miles to the coast. The path is downhill all the way except for occasional short rises. A brief climb brings you to a sweeping overlook point of the seashore. In the last 0.5 mile, switchback steeply down the open, chaparral-covered hillside, heading for Drakes Bay and the ocean. At a junction with Coast Trail, turn left and parallel the bluffs along the shoreline until you reach the turnoff for Sculptured Beach (a metal horse-hitching post marks the spot). Turn right and pay a visit to Sculptured Beach’s fascinating eroded sandstone terraces and rocky tidepools. Back on Coast Trail, 2 miles farther south, is the turnoff for Kelham Beach. The spur trail is definitively marked by an immense eucalyptus tree—but no trail sign. Kelham is a wide, sandy beach with a colorful backdrop of rust-colored, cave-pocketed cliffs. The final 0.8-mile stretch of Coast Trail is followed by a left turn on Bear Valley Trail just north of Arch Rock. Return via Bear Valley Trail to the trailhead.
If you want to visit the summit of Mount Wittenberg on this loop, you can start your trip on the Mount Wittenberg Trail from Bear Valley instead of Old Pine Trail from Divide Meadow. The Mount Wittenberg Trail climbs steeply for 1,300 feet to the tallest peak in the national seashore; take the short summit trail on the right to reach the top. From the base of the summit trail, follow Z Ranch Trail south to Sky Trail and continue south on Sky Trail to pick up Woodward Valley Trail. The rest of the trail is the same. This loop is 12 miles long, but it has a slightly steeper climb.
To fully appreciate Point Reyes’s pastoral beauty, it’s best to stay a while. Book a room at one of several inns and lodgings in Inverness or Point Reyes Station (www.ptreyes.com). Head to the Bovine Bakery (11315 Hwy. 1, Point Reyes Station, 415/663-9420, www.bovinebakeryptreyes.com) for your morning sustenance, then grab picnic supplies at Cowgirl Creamery (80 4th St., Point Reyes Station, 415/663-9335, www.cowgirlcreamery.com). Hike to your heart’s content all day long, and return to town for oyster stew and warm popovers at Station House Café (11180 Hwy 1, Point Reyes Station, 415/663-1515, https://stationhousecafe.com).
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 7.5 miles. Take the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit west toward San Anselmo and drive 20 miles to the town of Olema. At Olema, turn right (north) on Highway 1 for about 150 yards and then turn left on Bear Valley Road. Drive 0.5 mile and then turn left at the sign for Seashore Headquarters Information. Drive 0.25 mile and park in the large lot on the left, past the visitors center. Start hiking along the park road, heading for the signed Bear Valley Trail.
Public transportation: The West Marin Stage Bus #68 stops at the Bear Valley Visitor Center daily. For West Marin Stage information, phone 415/455-2000 or visit www.marintransit.org.
GPS Coordinates: N 38°04013’ W 122°79942’
Samuel P. Taylor State Park, Lagunitas
Best: Peak Vistas, Waterfalls
Effort: Moderate
Distance: 6 miles round-trip
Duration: 3 hours
Elevation Change: 1,300 feet
Users: Hikers, cyclists (fire roads only)
Season: Spring
Passes/Fees: None if you park in the roadside pullout across from Devil’s Gulch Horse Camp
Maps: A park map is available at the entrance kiosk at the main campground.
Contact: Samuel P. Taylor State Park, P.O. Box 251, Lagunitas, 415/488-9897, www.parks.ca.gov
An intimate waterfall, a fern rainforest, and a summit with a big view are found on this hike in western Marin County.
Although it is a much older public parkland, Samuel P. Taylor State Park is somewhat overshadowed by its larger and more famous neighbor, Point Reyes National Seashore. For hikers, that’s a bonus: Even when Samuel P. Taylor’s campground is filled to the limit on summer weekends, it’s rare to find many people on its hiking trails. But that’s just fine with those who know and love the park; they can enjoy a little solitude along with the scenery.
The park’s best hike is a loop trip to Barnabe Peak, a 6-mile trek that leads through a ferny, mossy forest of bay trees, passes by a wet-season waterfall, and then bags the summit of Barnabe Peak at 1,466 feet. The trailhead isn’t at the main Samuel P. Taylor campground entrance; it’s 1 mile west on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, near Devil’s Gulch Horse Camp.
Park in the dirt pullout across the road from the camp and then walk up the paved camp road for 100 yards until you reach a trail cutting off to the right along Devil’s Gulch Creek, paralleling the road. Follow it and immediately you descend into a stream-fed canyon filled with Douglas firs, tan oaks, bay laurels, and about a million ferns. In April and May, the ground near the stream is covered with forget-me-nots and buttercups.
A few minutes of upstream walking brings you to a footbridge over Devil’s Gulch. Just ahead is a huge, hollowed-out redwood tree—the only one of its kind along this stream. Go ahead, climb inside; everybody does it. The tree’s charm is irresistible.
Turn right to cross the footbridge and then turn left on its far side, following the sign for Bill’s Trail to Barnabe Peak. Climb very gently above the creek, marveling at the walls of ferns and the long limbs of mossy oaks and bays as you gain 350 feet over 0.75 mile. Soon you reach a view of the bald, grassy ridge on the far side of the canyon.
After crossing a bridge over a feeder stream, look for the Stairstep Falls trail junction on your left. Bear left, and in 10 minutes of walking, you reach the trail’s end near the base of Stairstep Falls. True to its name, 40-foot-tall Stairstep Falls drops in three main cascades, with a rocky “staircase” producing dozens of rivulets of water. Trail maintenance crews try to keep the area cleared of fallen trees and branches so you can stand near the base of the falls. It’s a charming spot in the wet winter and spring months, perfect for quiet contemplation in the good company of ferns, forest, and water.
The bald summit of Barnabe Peak rises 1,466 feet above the surrounding landscape.
When you’ve seen enough, retrace your steps back to Bill’s Trail and continue uphill. This beautifully graded path is popular with local runners, and it’s easy to see why: You hardly realize you are climbing as you zigzag your way through dozens of switchbacks. The patient meandering of the path slows you down so you have plenty of time to admire the graceful bay laurels, immense Douglas firs, and prolific ferns.
At 3.7 miles, the trail nears the top of the ridge and opens out to a small meadow. A dip back into the trees is followed by another meadow, and then you are permanently expelled from the shade onto the exposed ridge of Barnabe Peak. Wow! What a view! Tomales Bay and Point Reyes spread out before you even though you’re not yet at the summit. Turn left on the fire road to hike the final steep 0.25 mile to Barnabe Peak’s top, which is easily identified by its fire lookout tower. Dickson Fire Lookout, one of only two in Marin County, is fully operational. (The other tower, on Mount Tamalpais, hasn’t been used for decades.) Although the Dickson Lookout is closed to the public, the view from the boulders at its base is magnificent. Nearby you’ll see a few other structures and one of those strange, fake trees that are designed to disguise cell phone tower equipment.
At the summit, your panorama expands to the south to include Bolinas Ridge and Mount Tamalpais. That sparkling patch of water with the large spillway is Kent Lake in the Marin Municipal Water District. To the east, you can see Mount Diablo. In the foreground lie the town of Lagunitas and the San Geronimo Valley. Are those little tiny boats on Tomales Bay to the west? Yes indeed. The big hill on the southeast side of Tomales Bay is Black Mountain at 1,280 feet.
If you’re wondering about this summit’s moniker, Barnabe Peak was named for explorer John Fremont’s mule. After many great traveling expeditions with Fremont, Barnabe lived out his final days as the pet of the Samuel P. Taylor family. He liked to escape the confines of his corral and go for long walks on these hillsides.
To loop back from the summit, follow the open, exposed fire road back to the point where Bill’s Trail joins it and then continue down the fire road from there (this road is sometimes signed as Riding and Hiking Trail). The return leg of the loop is only 2 miles, compared to the 4 miles you hiked uphill, so expect a much steeper grade. (Hikers with bad knees might consider going back down the way they came up.) At 1.3 miles from the peak, notice a small white picket fence in a clearing 100 feet off the trail. This is Samuel P. Taylor’s gravesite; he lived 1827-1896. Taylor was famous for establishing the first paper mill on the West Coast and producing newsprint for the San Francisco dailies. He built the town of Taylorville on the site of the present-day park and opened Camp Taylor, a popular weekend recreational resort.
Another favorite trail at Samuel P. Taylor State Park is the Pioneer Tree Trail, which begins at the Redwood Grove Picnic Area near the park’s main campground (1 mile east of Devil’s Gulch on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard). This 2.7-mile loop curves around one redwood-filled canyon after another, passing by some big trees that are hundreds of years old. The 500-year-old Pioneer Tree has been hollowed out by fire; you can stand inside its massive trunk. To get a good look at how large the Pioneer really is, have a seat on the bench located a few yards uphill, where you gain a wider perspective.
Tent camping under the redwoods at Samuel P. Taylor State Park is nice, but spending the night in one of its secluded Madrone Cabins (reserve at www.reservecalifornia.com, $100) is even better. Wooden walls and a faux “wood-burning” stove (okay, it’s electric) will keep you warm and cozy. Just bring your sleeping bag and you’re all set.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 7.5 miles. Take the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit west toward San Anselmo and then drive about 15 miles (through the towns of Ross, Fairfax, and Lagunitas) to the signed entrance to Samuel P. Taylor State Park’s campground. Don’t turn here; continue on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard for exactly 1 more mile. Park in the dirt pullout across the road from Devil’s Gulch Horse Camp. Walk across the road and take the paved road toward the campground.
Public transportation: The West Marin Stage Bus #68 stops at the main entrance to Samuel P. Taylor State Park, by the campground (1 mile from the Devil’s Gulch Trailhead). For West Marin Stage information, phone 415/455-2000 or visit www.marintransit.org.
GPS Coordinates: N 38°02995’ W 122°73709’
Point Reyes National Seashore, near Bolinas
Best: Waterfalls
Distance: 8.4 miles round-trip
Duration: 4 hours
Elevation Change: 550 feet
Effort: Moderate
Users: Hikers
Season: Winter and spring
Passes/Fees: None
Maps: A park map is available at the Bear Valley Visitor Center (Bear Valley Road, Olema, 415/464-5100, 10am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-5pm Sat.-Sun.).
Contact: Point Reyes National Seashore, Point Reyes, 415/464-5100, www.nps.gov/pore
One of California’s most spectacular waterfalls and an inviting swimming lake are found along this trail on the southern tip of Point Reyes.
Quick—which California waterfall leaps off high coastal bluffs and cascades gracefully down to the sand and surf below? Most people think of famous McWay Falls in Big Sur, one of the most frequently visited and photographed waterfalls in the state. But don’t forget the other coastal cataract that makes the same dramatic plunge from earth to sea, 150 miles up the coast in western Marin County. That’s Alamere Falls in Point Reyes National Seashore.
There may be no finer way to spend a spring day than to hike to Alamere Falls with a stop along the way at Bass Lake. If you time your trip for a clear, sunny day, when the bush lupine and Douglas iris are in full bloom and the waterfall is flowing enthusiastically, this trail’s scenery will knock your socks off.
Be aware that this trail has become very popular due to coverage in the media. On spring and summer weekends there is so much traffic that you may have to park your car a mile from the trailhead. Your best bets for avoiding the crowds are to go very early in the day, on a weekday, or in the winter.
Start hiking on Coast Trail from the Palomarin Trailhead in Point Reyes, the southernmost trailhead in the national seashore. Despite its off-the-beaten-track location near the town of Bolinas, the trailhead parking lot is often full of cars. Some of these visitors are here to backpack the 15-mile Coast Trail, a highly recommended two-day trip. You follow a portion of that route on this hike.
Coast Trail is a wide dirt road that begins in stands of eucalyptus. The first mile is nearly level and serves up frequent ocean views, putting you in good spirits for the rest of the trip. Then Coast Trail turns inland, climbing slightly to a junction with Lake Ranch Trail at 2.1 miles. Stay on Coast Trail as it veers left and passes a couple of seasonal ponds, which are often covered with paddling waterbirds. At 2.6 miles, you skirt the north edge of Bass Lake. Swimming and picnicking opportunities are plentiful at the large blue lake; just follow the unsigned spur trail on the left amid the Douglas firs. (The trail is located about 100 yards past the point where you first glimpse the lake.) On warm spring and summer weekends, many hikers make Bass Lake their final destination, so you will likely have less company on the trail from this point onward.
A short distance farther is another trail junction where the now-closed Crystal Lake Trail heads to tiny Crystal and Mud Lakes. Continue straight on Coast Trail, now heading toward the ocean. Three-quarters of a mile beyond Bass Lake, prepare yourself for a stunning view of Pelican Lake, perched on a coastal bluff to your left. The Pacific Ocean forms its backdrop. After curving past the lake, an unmarked left spur trail (no longer maintained by the park) leads to the northern edge of Double Point. If you take the spur, you come to a rocky overlook with views of the ocean and Stormy Stack, a big offshore rock outcrop. This is a splendid spot for whale-watching.
Just beyond this spur, a trail sign points straight ahead for Wildcat Camp, and a second unofficial spur trail leads left, heading for the coastal bluffs and Alamere Falls. (So many hikers have missed this turnoff over the years that the Park Service finally put a sign at the junction.) Follow the 0.4-mile spur trail, which is quite narrow and usually encroached by poison oak and coastal scrub, until it meets up with Alamere Creek and continues to the cliff edge. Although you are now practically on top of the waterfall, you can see little of its watery theatrics.
Alamere Falls makes a graceful cascading drop to the Pacific Ocean.
To see more, many hikers cross the creek and scramble down the bluffs to the beach, but park rangers discourage this because of the constantly crumbing and eroding cliffs. Instead, they suggest that if you want to see Alamere Falls from the bottom, backtrack to Coast Trail, continue hiking 1.9 miles north to Wildcat Camp, and then follow the trail to its neighboring beach. A 1-mile stroll southward along brayed tan sand (possible only at low tide) brings you safely to the base of Alamere Falls, where its full drama unfolds. During and just after the rainy season, the waterfall cascades 50 feet in a wide, effusive block over its cliff and then streams across the sand to the sea.
Ambitious hikers should continue another 1.9 miles beyond Alamere Falls on Coast Trail to Wildcat Beach and Wildcat Camp. Along the way, you pass two more lakes, Ocean and Wildcat, although neither is as large as Pelican or Bass Lake. If you get a permit, you can spend the night at Wildcat Camp (www.recreation.gov, $20). Your total mileage will be 12.4 miles.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 4 miles. Take the Mill Valley/Stinson Beach/Highway 1 exit and continue straight for 1 mile to a stoplight at Shoreline Highway (Highway 1). Turn left on Shoreline Highway, drive 12 miles to Stinson Beach, and then continue north on Highway 1 for another 5.5 miles to the left turnoff for Bolinas Road, which is often not signed (it’s across from a big white farmhouse). Turn left and drive 2.1 miles to Mesa Road. Turn right and drive 5.8 miles to the Palomarin Trailhead.
GPS Coordinates: N 37°93415’ W 122°74716’
Audubon Canyon Ranch/Martin Griffin Preserve, Bolinas Lagoon
Best: Bird-Watching
Distance: 3 miles round-trip
Duration: 1.5 hours
Elevation Change: 800 feet
Effort: Easy/moderate
Users: Hikers
Season: March-July
Passes/Fees: None ($20 suggested donation appreciated)
Maps: A trail map is available at the trailhead.
Hours: Martin Griffin Preserve is open 10am-4pm weekends and holidays only, mid-March-mid-July.
Contact: Audubon Canyon Ranch/Martin Griffin Preserve, 4900 Hwy. 1, Stinson Beach, 415/868-9244, www.egret.org
This bird-watching experience is guaranteed to thrill birders and nonbirders alike, combined with a peaceful hike away from the crowds.
When I pulled into the parking lot at Audubon Canyon Ranch, I thought I was in the middle of a major event. A row of cars lined the driveway, more cars kept pulling in, and somebody was trying to direct all the traffic. Was it John Muir’s birthday or something?
No, just a busy birding day at the ranch. One of three preserves in Marin and Sonoma Counties run by Audubon Canyon Ranch, the Martin Griffin Preserve is an amazing spot to see shorebirds—great egrets, snowy egrets, and great blue herons—up close and very personal. The preserve is one of the most significant and most studied nesting sites on the West Coast. From Henderson Overlook, a hike-in bird-watching platform, visitors can witness the miracle of more than 150 pairs of these large shorebirds—with wingspans up to six feet long—nesting in the tops of redwood trees.
Well, at least that’s true in most years. In fact, it was true for 70 years straight, until 2013. For the last few years, the birds have abandoned their traditional nesting sites in the redwood trees of Picher Canyon. No one is quite sure why, but a lot of birders are pointing the finger at avian predators, specifically bald eagles.
Bird biologists are convinced that the breeding birds could return and reoccupy the preserve at any time, so there’s a lot of waiting and hoping going on. Contact the reserve before your visit to find out the current status (415/868-9244, www.egret.org). Fortunately, whether the egret show is happening or not, these canyons are lovely to explore.
The preserve is open on weekends and holidays only mid-March-mid-July.
Start your trip by visiting the Henderson Overlook. Take the Alice Kent Trail, which begins behind the preserve’s buildings. It climbs moderately and pleasantly for 0.5 mile, and about halfway up you get your first glimpse of snow-white great egrets, nesting in their treetop colony on the neighboring hillside. At the overlook platform is a set of viewing benches, stacked like bleacher seats at a football game. Audubon volunteers set up sighting scopes; visitors take turns looking at the birds.
What you see through the scopes depends on what month it is. By May, the egret eggs have usually hatched. Looking through the scopes, you can see the baby egrets in their nests. Typically you see two or three baby birds per nest, all clamoring for food. If you show up in late March or April, you see the adult birds (both male and female) incubating the eggs. In late June or July, you may see young egrets learning to fly. In any month, the sighting scopes allow a beautiful magnified view of the adult egrets in their white, feathered finery. So large that they appear almost clumsy, the adult birds make the redwood branches sway and droop dramatically when they take off and land.
The egrets’ delicate feathers are the reason for their near extinction. The birds were massively hunted in the early 1900s to provide plumage for ladies’ hats. Efforts by the Audubon Society eventually resulted in legislation that protected the birds.
This wooded nesting site received a similar rescue from annihilation. In 1961, the redwood grove where the herons and egrets nest was scheduled to be logged. Adjacent Bolinas Lagoon was to be dredged and developed as a marina, and a four-lane freeway was to be built between the nesting site and lagoon feeding grounds. Fortunately, the president of the Marin Audubon Society negotiated a deal with the landowner to purchase the property and save it from development.
Lucky visitors get to see great blue herons nesting, in addition to the great egrets. Typically there are fewer than a dozen pairs of herons in the preserve, compared to more than 100 egret pairs. The herons begin nesting a month earlier than the egrets.
After you’ve marveled at the birds, continue beyond the overlook on Griffin Loop Trail, which leads uphill through an oak and bay forest. The path heads straight up with no switchbacks for 0.5 mile. When you reach the marked intersection of Griffin Loop Trail and Zumie Loop Trail, go left and follow Zumie Loop Trail downhill into a fern-filled redwood forest along Garden Club Canyon’s small stream. After 0.25 mile, swing away from the creek and follow the ridge on a narrow path. Climbing ever so slightly, the trail tops out at a high, open bluff. Have a seat on the strategically placed wooden swing, which is wide enough for two or more, and enjoy the expansive view of Bolinas Lagoon. Sway back and forth to your heart’s content as you review the day’s wonders.
Finally, follow the trail downhill along the sloping hillside. The path curves gently all the way back to Audubon Canyon Ranch headquarters, providing sweeping coastal views along the way. Just before returning to the ranch, you have the chance to stop at one more great birding observation point, the Clem Miller Lookout. From here, you have a wide view across Bolinas Lagoon, where the usual cabal of shorebirds—from sandpipers to osprey to pelicans—goes about its business.
Another recommended hike is to remain on Griffin Loop Trail beyond the Henderson Overlook and traverse a 2.7-mile loop around Picher Canyon. Similar to the loop already described, the Griffin Loop leads through a mix of dense forests and open ridgetops with views of Stinson Beach, Bolinas Lagoon, and the coast.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 4 miles. Take the Mill Valley/Stinson Beach/Highway 1 exit and continue straight for 1 mile to a stoplight at Shoreline Highway (Highway 1). Turn left on Shoreline Highway, drive 12 miles to Stinson Beach, and then continue north on Highway 1 for another 3.7 miles. Look for the entrance to Audubon Canyon Ranch on the right. (It’s 0.5 mile beyond the entrance signed Volunteer Canyon.)
GPS Coordinates: N 37°93026’ W 122°68132’
Marin Municipal Water District, near Fairfax
Best: Waterfalls
Distance: 3.2 miles round-trip
Duration: 1.5 hours
Elevation Change: 800 feet
Effort: Easy/moderate
Users: Hikers, leashed dogs
Season: Winter and spring
Passes/Fees: None
Maps: Maps are available from Tom Harrison Maps, 415/456-7940, www.tomharrisonmaps.com (ask for the Pine Mountain map).
Contact: Sky Oaks Ranger Station (415/945-1195) or Marin Municipal Water District (220 Nellen Ave., Corte Madera, 415/945-1455, www.marinwater.org)
A series of magical waterfalls, cascades, and pools is revealed on this ever-popular trail on the “back side” of Mount Tamalpais.
From the first rains in November until the final runoff in April or May, the multiple cascades of Cataract Falls plunge down the fern-covered hillsides of western Mount Tamalpais. Cataract Trail, which traces a path alongside Cataract Creek, offers hikers easy access to the handsome series of falls.
Reaching the trailhead at Alpine Lake requires a long and winding drive on narrow Bolinas-Fairfax Road, but it’s a scenic cruise through the countryside. You’re more likely to stop for deer crossing the road than traffic. After parking at the hairpin turn just beyond Alpine Dam, begin hiking at the sign for Cataract Trail. You’re treated to lake views for the first 0.25 mile before the trail enters a dense forest of redwoods, ferns, maples, and tan oaks. Soon the path heads steeply uphill through the woodland, at times ascending on rock stairsteps.
Cataract Falls is not one waterfall, but several. The series of cascades is spread out over 1.6 miles of Cataract Trail, so hike as much of it as you like. Soon after the trail leaves the lake and begins to climb, you start seeing waterfalls. Half a dozen cascades are found in the first 0.75 mile between the lake’s edge and a narrow footbridge crossing Cataract Creek. After a good rain, the canyon comes to life with the continual sound and sight of waterfalls. Every curve and turn of the trail presents a new watery surprise. The unveiling of each cascade is so exciting that it’s easy to ignore the steepness of the climb.
Most of the cascades are only 20-30 feet high, but each is completely different in shape and appearance. Their common denominator, besides the life-giving flow of Cataract Creek, is that each one is completely surrounded by ferns. The last waterfall appears just before a junction with High Marsh Trail; this is the most impressive of the group and the one most people consider to be the “true” Cataract Falls. Here, Cataract Creek makes a dramatic tumble over car-sized boulders as it rushes downhill. From the big fall, it’s less than 0.25 mile uphill on Cataract Trail to Laurel Dell, a picnic area near a large, grassy clearing. Have lunch or a snack at Laurel Dell and then turn around to hike back down Cataract Trail, witnessing the waterfall show all over again.
Make this trip a 7.5-mile loop by continuing on Cataract Trail to High Marsh Trail. Follow High Marsh Trail gently uphill for 2.2 miles, gaining surprising views of San Pablo Bay. At a confusing series of trail junctions near High Marsh and Willow Meadow, turn left (north) on Kent Trail and head downhill for 1.4 miles, nearly to the edge of Alpine Lake. Turn left on Helen Markt Trail and hike 2 miles through redwoods to the lower stretch of Cataract Trail. Turn right and walk 0.5 mile back to your car. If you choose to make this loop, be sure to bring a good map with you. Numerous unsigned junctions along the route can lead you in the wrong direction.
During the rainy season, the multiple cascades of Cataract Falls are a sight to behold.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 7.5 miles. Take the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit west toward San Anselmo and then drive 6 miles to the town of Fairfax. Turn left by the Fairfax sign (on Pacheco Avenue) and then turn right immediately on Broadway. Drive one block and turn left on Bolinas Road (on some signs it is labeled Bolinas-Fairfax Road). Drive 7.8 miles on Bolinas Road to the dam at Alpine Lake. Cross the dam and continue 0.1 mile farther to the hairpin turn in the road. Park in the pullouts along the turn; the trailhead is on the left.
GPS Coordinates: N 37°93954’ W 122°63870’
Marin Municipal Water District, near Fairfax
Best: Waterfalls
Distance: 3.4 miles round-trip
Duration: 1.5 hours
Elevation Change: 800 feet
Effort: Easy/moderate
Users: Hikers, cyclists (fire roads only), leashed dogs
Season: Year-round
Passes/Fees: None
Maps: Maps are available from Tom Harrison Maps, 415/456-7940, www.tomharrisonmaps.com (ask for the Pine Mountain map).
Contact: Sky Oaks Ranger Station (415/945-1195) or Marin Municipal Water District (220 Nellen Ave., Corte Madera, 415/945-1455, www.marinwater.org)
A four-tiered waterfall drops over greenstone basalt and provides habitat for the threatened foothill yellow-legged frog.
Quiz question: Name three waterfalls located on or nearby Mount Tamalpais, all within six miles of each other, that begin with the letter C.
Answer: Cascade Falls in the Marin County Open Space lands off Bolinas-Fairfax Road (see Cascade Canyon listing in this chapter), Cataract Falls near Laurel Dell, just over the border from Mount Tamalpais State Park (see Cataract Trail to Cataract Falls listing in this chapter), and Carson Falls in Marin Municipal Water District.
It’s a good idea to learn them all and know which is which, because it saves a lot of confusion when you tell your coworkers at the water cooler about the great waterfall you hiked to over the weekend. Carson Falls? Isn’t that the one with the trail that starts at Alpine Dam and climbs the whole way? No, that’s Cataract. Cataract Falls? Isn’t that the one that falls in a long, stair-stepped plunge through a steep, rocky canyon? Sorry, that’s Carson. Cascade Falls? Isn’t that the one that’s just outside the Fairfax suburbs? Well, you got one right.
To set the record straight, Carson Falls is an unusual waterfall found in the middle of a dry grassland canyon in Marin Municipal Water District lands, high above Alpine and Kent Lakes on the northwest slope of Mount Tamalpais. It’s a long chain of four pool-and-drop cataracts that pour into rock-lined pools. Located a few miles outside the town of Fairfax, it’s just far enough off the beaten path that it gets somewhat less traffic than other waterfalls in Marin County. However, since trail signs and a reconstructed section of trail were put in place in 2009, the waterfall sees a lot more visitors than it used to (and now it’s easier to find, too).
The trailhead is located along the north side of Bolinas-Fairfax Road at 1,078 feet in elevation. From the gravel parking area, cross Bolinas-Fairfax Road and pick up Pine Mountain Fire Road at the large Marin Municipal Water District signboard. Climb uphill for 1 mile, gaining slightly more than 300 feet in elevation. Be sure to pause and look over your right shoulder as you ascend to take in the sweeping view of Mount Diablo, San Pablo Bay, Marin County, the East Bay, and even the Richmond Bridge. The climb gets your heart pumping, but the views are more than fair compensation for your efforts.
Keep your eyes and ears attuned for mountain bicyclists on this fire road. They sometimes come flying downhill at breakneck speed, most often after experiencing the agony and ecstasy of climbing nearby Pine Mountain.
After a mile of climbing, you reach a high point on the ridge and a junction. Look due north for a surprising view of Mount St. Helena in Napa, 45 miles distant, and then turn left on Oat Hill Road, also a fire road. In only 0.25 mile, you see a sign for the Carson Falls turnoff on your right. Leave the fire roads behind and walk on the gorgeous stretch of single-track built in 2007-2008 to replace the badly eroded former path. The trail switchbacks gently downhill into the Carson Creek watershed through a forest of oaks and madrones. A bevy of sword ferns grace the understory.
Carson Falls cascades in several tiers over greenstone basalt.
This pleasant, shady stretch deposits you on a narrow, artfully constructed footbridge above Carson Falls. Don’t expect that usual thunderous moment of “Wow! A waterfall!” Carson Falls is more subtle and mysterious than that—especially because you arrive at its crest, not at its base. This waterfall reveals its pleasures slowly, one pool at a time. To see it in its entirety, cross the footbridge and then follow the rocky path downhill, dropping in elevation along with the stream. Use caution heading down the steep footpath, especially when the rocks are wet in the rainy season. Carson Falls’ green-gray rock looks like serpentine, but it’s actually a type of greenstone basalt.
The pools of Carson Falls are home to threatened amphibians, including the foothill yellow-legged frog, which has been listed as a federal and state species of special concern. The frogs have disappeared from nearly 50 percent of their historic range in California and Oregon. Here in the Mount Tam watershed, only two populations exist, including this one at Carson Falls. To help protect these creatures, keep yourself and any canine companions out of the water, especially March-June when the frog eggs and tadpoles are most vulnerable.
Instead, pick any rock near one of the waterfall pools, have a seat, and listen to the water’s natural music for a while. Even in summer, when Carson Falls is reduced to a mere trickle, a visit here feels restorative, like resting in a Zen garden with the sound of the wind and the tinkling of water as your only companions.
Another unusual sight in the region of Carson Falls is a stand of dwarf Sargent cypress trees off San Geronimo Ridge Road. The Sargent cypress is a rare evergreen that grows in scattered groves around Mount Tamalpais. It is usually stunted in size when rooted in serpentine soil, which is the case here. Cypress trees that are more than 100 years old may be only a few feet tall. To see them, continue straight on Pine Mountain Road at its junction with Oat Hill Road (the route is mostly level from here). In just under 0.5 mile, you come to a junction of roads; the 1,762-foot summit of Pine Mountain is off to the left. Go straight on San Geronimo Ridge Road and reach the miniature Sargent cypress forest in 0.6 mile.
There’s nothing quite as tasty as a cold craft brew after a hike, and in the town of Fairfax, the place to go is Iron Springs Pub and Brewery (765 Center Blvd., 415/485-1005, www.ironspringspub.com). The beer menu changes often, but count on good IPAs and stouts. If you decide to order food, the garlic fries are a winner. A bonus: Your dog is welcome at the brewery’s outdoor tables.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 7.5 miles. Take the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit west toward San Anselmo and then drive 6 miles to the town of Fairfax. Turn left by the Fairfax sign (on Pacheco Avenue) and then turn right immediately on Broadway. In one block, turn left on Bolinas Road (on some signs it is labeled Bolinas-Fairfax Road). Drive 3.8 miles on Bolinas Road, past the golf course, to the trailhead parking on the left side of the road. Park and walk across the road to the trailhead.
GPS Coordinates: N 37°96359’ W 122°62492’
Marin Municipal Water District, near Fairfax
Distance: 5 miles round-trip
Duration: 2.5 hours
Elevation Change: 200 feet
Effort: Easy
Users: Hikers, cyclists (fire roads only), leashed dogs
Season: Winter, spring, and early summer
Passes/Fees: $8 day-use per vehicle
Maps: Maps are available from Tom Harrison Maps, 415/456-7940, www.tomharrisonmaps.com (ask for the Pine Mountain map).
Contact: Sky Oaks Ranger Station (415/945-1195) or Marin Municipal Water District (220 Nellen Ave., Corte Madera, 415/945-1455, www.marinwater.org)
This mellow walk circles two of Marin County’s loveliest lakes, with an option for a little shoreline fishing.
When most people think of public parkland around Mount Tamalpais, they think of the towering redwoods of Muir Woods National Monument, or the grasslands, forests, and stunning coastal views of Mount Tamalpais State Park. But few people know that five sparkling lakes—Alpine, Bon Tempe, Phoenix, Kent, and Lagunitas—are also part of the Mount Tamalpais landscape. Located in the Mount Tamalpais watershed on the northwest side of the mountain, these lakes present five more reasons why the Mount Tamalpais area is so ideal for outdoor recreation.
The best lakes for a hiking excursion are Bon Tempe and Lagunitas. By linking together a couple of trails, you can walk all the way around both lakes’ perimeters in a couple of hours. The best seasons are winter, spring, and early summer, when the reservoirs are filled to the brim (and sometimes overflowing down their spillways).
Start your trip by walking uphill to Bon Tempe Dam. From the top, you gain views of bright blue Bon Tempe Lake on your left and the marshes and lowlands of Alpine Lake on your right. The unmistakable profile of Mount Tamalpais looms to the southeast. The long, wide dam is a worthy bird-watching site. In addition to the more common cormorants, egrets, ducks, and coots, osprey are often spotted at Bon Tempe Lake. The large raptors are amazing fishers, with razor-sharp eyes that can spot a fish in the lake from high up in the air. They plunge feet first into the water for their prey. Black-tailed deer are also commonly seen around the lake’s edges.
Bon Tempe Lake is stocked with trout by the Department of Fish and Game November-April. However, because the lake is a reservoir, no boating, swimming, or wading is allowed. Fishing is permitted from the shoreline only, and, yes, plenty of trout are caught here. Although your dog is allowed to accompany you at the lake, he or she must be kept leashed and out of the water.
Walk across the dam and then pick up the single-track trail that leads left along the lakeshore. It climbs imperceptibly as it travels into a dense mixed forest of oaks, madrones, firs, and redwoods. This peaceful, shady stretch of trail is punctuated by the sound of water lapping against the shore. In about a mile, the trail leaves the forest and enters a grassy marsh area, where you can look westward over the entire lake—all the way back to your starting point at the dam. This vista is particularly lovely if the sun is sinking low in the sky.
The trail heads back into the redwoods for a short distance and then emerges near the parking lot of neighboring Lake Lagunitas. Shortly before you reach the pavement, turn right on a wide fire road. After 0.25 mile, the road climbs above Lake Lagunitas’s earthen dam. Built in 1873, this dam makes Lagunitas the oldest of the Marin lakes. Follow the wide road as it circles the edge of the 22-acre lake; at all junctions, just follow the path that stays near the water. The shallower edges of the lake are crowded with reeds, tules, and cattails. Families of ducks are often seen paddling along the surface in spring.
Lagunitas Lake is a tranquil place for hikers and anglers.
Pass a couple of rangers’ residences along the north edge of Lake Lagunitas and then take the fire road downhill past the picnic area to the parking lot. Here you must locate the final leg of the loop along Bon Tempe Lake; head west across the parking lot to access the trail. Where the fire road splits off with a single-track trail leading left along the lake, follow the single-track. (Once again, just ignore all trails that don’t stay close to the water.) There’s only one short section on Bon Tempe Lake’s north side where a feeder stream and marsh force your path to move away from the water; you have to walk along the edge of paved Sky Oaks Road for 200 yards. When you see a gravel pullout for cars on the right side of the road, look to your left to find the single-track trail again, which returns to the water’s edge.
The final mile along the north shore of Bon Tempe Lake is the best stretch of the trip in springtime. The sunny, grassland slopes are covered with wildflowers, particularly patches of blue and white Douglas iris.
When the lakes are full in winter and spring, a noteworthy option is to hike across Bon Tempe Dam and then turn right on the wide dirt road. Stay right on this road, which leads you to the edge of long and narrow Alpine Lake and the start of Kent Trail, which curves along the lake’s shore. Two miles from the dam, turn left to stay on Kent Trail and hike steeply uphill for a mile. Turn left on Stocking Trail and follow it 0.6 mile to Rocky Ridge Fire Road, where you turn left and drop back down to Bon Tempe Dam. The total loop distance is 5.7 miles.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 7.5 miles. Take the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit west toward San Anselmo and then drive 6 miles to the town of Fairfax. Turn left by the Fairfax sign (on Pacheco Avenue) and then turn right immediately on Broadway. In one block, turn left on Bolinas Road (on some signs it is labeled Bolinas-Fairfax Road). Drive 1.5 miles on Bolinas Road to Sky Oaks Road, where you bear left. Drive straight for 0.4 mile to the ranger station and entrance kiosk and then continue 0.3 mile to a fork in the road. Bear right on the gravel road. (The left fork takes you to Lake Lagunitas.) Drive 0.6 mile until you reach another fork, bear left, and park in the gravel parking area next to a gated fire road. Start hiking at the gate, heading uphill to Bon Tempe Dam.
GPS Coordinates: N 37°95915’ W 122°60993’
Marin County Open Space District, Fairfax
Best: Waterfalls
Distance: 1.5 miles round-trip
Duration: 1 hour
Elevation Change: 100 feet
Effort: Easy
Users: Hikers, cyclists (fire roads only), leashed dogs
Season: Year-round
Passes/Fees: None
Maps: Detailed maps of the area are available at www.marinopenspace.org.
Contact: Marin County Open Space District, 3501 Civic Center Dr., Ste. 260, San Rafael, 415/499-6387, www.marinopenspace.org
A family-friendly hike to a scenic waterfall, with an option for a more strenuous walk to a second cataract and deep pools upstream.
Here’s proof that the true measure of a waterfall is not how big it is or how much water flows over it, but the overall impression it creates. Little Cascade Falls in Fairfax is no Niagara, but it is perfectly situated in a rocky grotto nestled in a deep, forested canyon. Once you arrive, you may be so charmed that you never want to leave.
At its start, the path through Cascade Canyon doesn’t seem as though it could possibly lead to a waterfall. To reach the trailhead, you drive along a narrow road through a suburban neighborhood. Parking is limited and difficult; take care to obey all signs and don’t block anyone’s driveway. At the hike’s start, you follow an often dry and dusty fire road (except, of course, in the peak of the rainy season). The water in this stretch of San Anselmo Creek is rarely more than a few inches deep. Things may not look promising, but they get better.
Keep San Anselmo Creek on your left as you hike, avoiding the wide fire road wherever possible and following the single-track hiking paths that roughly parallel it. Cross a wooden footbridge at 0.5 mile and veer right at the trail sign into an oak and bay forest, still walking alongside Cascade Creek. The stream has many quiet pools and charming rock cascades.
In 0.25 mile, round a bend and you hear the sound of falling water before you get your first glimpse of the waterfall. Cascade Falls tumbles 18 feet over a rough rock face into a small pool below. The pool is surrounded by many large and small mossy rocks, perfectly placed for waterfall-watching.
If you’d like to see more of Cascade Canyon, you could follow the informal trail up and over Cascade Falls. But the path quickly becomes rough, steep, and lined with poison oak. A better option is to backtrack 0.25 mile to the footbridge you crossed on the way in and then turn right (west) on Cascade Fire Road. In only 100 yards, you see a single-track trail on the right signed as No Bikes. (It’s shortly beyond another single-track trail on the left). Built by local Fairfax trail rebels, this 1.7-mile trail was initially labeled illegal by Marin Municipal Water District officials and was scheduled for closure in early 1996. But public support for the trail was so strong that the Water District eventually decided to leave it alone, and now it’s a favorite of local hikers and dog walkers.
A footbridge takes hikers right to the lip of Cascade Falls.
Follow this narrow path up a wooded ridge on a steady but moderate grade. The climb relents at spots where the trail opens out to grassy, open slopes with views of the opposing ridge. Finally, the trail heads downhill to rejoin Cascade Creek. Where it forks, turn right, walk about 100 feet, and then cross the creek. You come out at the brink of a beautiful two-tiered waterfall and swimming hole sometimes referred to as the Plunge, the Ink Well, or just plain Upper Falls. Your round-trip distance is about 5 miles.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 7.5 miles. Take the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit west toward San Anselmo and then drive 6 miles to the town of Fairfax. Turn left by the Fairfax sign (on Pacheco Avenue) and then turn right immediately on Broadway. In one block, turn left on Bolinas Road (on some signs, it is labeled Bolinas-Fairfax Road). Follow Bolinas Road for 0.3 mile to a three-road intersection. Bear right on Cascade Drive (the middle road) and continue for 1.5 miles. The road becomes very narrow and ends at Elliott Nature Preserve. Parking is extremely limited. Park alongside the road (be careful to avoid blocking driveways and obey the No Parking signs in the last 100 feet before the trailhead). Begin hiking at the gate.
GPS Coordinates: N 37°97782’ W 122°61378’
Marin Municipal Water District, near Fairfax
Distance: 4 miles round-trip
Duration: 2 hours
Elevation Change: 500 feet
Effort: Easy/moderate
Users: Hikers, leashed dogs
Season: Winter and spring
Passes/Fees: None
Maps: Maps are available from Tom Harrison Maps, 415/456-7940, www.tomharrisonmaps.com (ask for the Mount Tam map).
Contact: Sky Oaks Ranger Station (415/945-1195), Marin Municipal Water District (220 Nellen Ave., Corte Madera, 415/945-1455, www.marinwater.org, or Mount Tamalpais State Park (801 Panoramic Hwy., Mill Valley, 415/388-2070, www.friendsofmttam.org or www.parks.ca.gov)
Get away from the weekend crowds on this woodsy loop hike from Mount Tamalpais’s Rock Springs Trailhead.
If you are longing for a quiet walk in the woods, maybe with a little picnicking or a nature lesson along the way, this trail loop is just right. Lots of people come to Mount Tamalpais to see the tall coastal redwoods or take in the sweeping coastal views, but there’s much to be said for a simple woodland hike offering a little exercise, some solitude, and the comforting sounds of the birds and your own breathing.
The plethora of cars parked at Rock Spring parking area on the weekends might concern you, but fear not. Rock Spring is a major hub of trails; most hikers have set out on other paths to the scenic lookout at O’Rourke’s Bench or the historic Mountain Theater. On one weekend trip, the only people I saw on this trail were a group of hikers who looked to be in their 70s. They were speeding up Benstein Trail as if they were going to a fire, arguing all the way about which species of oriole they had just seen. They passed me near Potrero Meadow and I never caught up with them.
Start by walking north from the parking area, traveling on Cataract Trail until it splits—Cataract to the left and Simmons to the right. Take Simmons to connect to Benstein Trail in a few hundred feet, heading immediately into a tan oak and Douglas fir forest where you are likely to be greeted by the drumming of woodpeckers. Bear right on Benstein Trail, heading for Potrero Meadow.
Benstein Trail is just right for a peaceful walk in the woods.
Benstein Trail ascends steadily until it reaches a junction with Rock Spring and Lagunitas Fire Road. Take the fire road left for only a few dozen yards. Join Benstein Trail again where it veers off to the left, back on single-track.
Prepare for a sudden scenery change as you come out of the hardwoods and onto the rocky back side of this ridge. You enter a contrasting world of manzanita, chemise, small Sargent cypress trees, and serpentine rock. Serpentine, California’s state rock, is formed when water mixes with peridotite. It’s a pretty grayish green on Mount Tamalpais, although in other areas it’s mostly gray. Spend some time examining the foliage growing here; it consists of plants that require few nutrients and are often dwarfed in size, which is typical of a serpentine environment. The most fascinating flora is the miniature cypress trees, which mature when they are only a few feet tall. Ironically, two of the world’s largest Sargent cypress trees—more than 80 feet tall—grow near here on the Mickey O’Brien Trail.
Descending from this gravelly, exposed ridge, follow Benstein Trail north for 0.25 mile until you reach Laurel Dell Fire Road. (A picnic area can be found across the road at Potrero Meadow if anyone in your party is getting hungry.) Turn left on the fire road and hike about 50 yards to gain a brief view of Bon Tempe Lake and the Marin watershed to the north.
Turn left on another fire road at a trail sign for Barth’s Retreat. Barth’s Retreat is an old camp that was built by poet, musician, and hiker Emil Barth in the 1920s. He was also an avid Mount Tamalpais trail builder. Turn right and cross a bridge, pass by yet another picnic area, and then continue straight. You are now on Mickey O’Brien Trail, heading west along Barth’s Creek in a thick forest of oak, bay, and Douglas fir. This is one of the best sections of the loop, especially when the stream is running strong, creating an enchanting melody of water sounds. Mickey O’Brien Trail, named for the 1920s president of the Tamalpais Conservation Corps, leads you gently downhill toward Laurel Dell, a grassy meadow.
Just before the dell, Mickey O’Brien Trail ends at an intersection with Cataract Trail. The latter is your ticket back to Rock Spring. Turn left on Cataract Trail; it’s just a little more than a mile to the parking lot. If you want to make a side trip to picnic at Laurel Dell, go right for 150 yards, have your lunch, and then follow Cataract home.
In winter and spring, you can add on a visit to Cataract Falls from Laurel Dell. Just follow Cataract Trail northwest from the far end of the dell and then begin a steep descent through redwoods and Douglas firs. Watch for an intersection with High Marsh Trail on the right; continue straight to shortly reach the uppermost cascade of Cataract Falls. Cataract Trail curves in tightly, bringing you right alongside the stream. Water tumbles over huge boulders as it rushes downhill. Pick a rock and watch the show. If you like, you can continue downhill along Cataract Trail, visiting as many of the trail’s cascades as you wish. Remember that the return trip to Laurel Dell is all uphill (see Cataract Trail to Cataract Falls listing in this chapter for more details).
An easy way to stretch this trip into a 6-mile loop is to continue straight across Laurel Dell Fire Road toward Potrero Camp and Potrero Meadow. Pick up Kent Trail and follow it north 1.0 mile to High Marsh Trail, where you turn left. High Marsh Trail travels 2.1 miles and intersects with Cataract Trail just above the largest cascade of Cataract Falls and shortly below Laurel Dell. Turn left and follow Cataract Trail all the way back to Rock Spring.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 4 miles. Take the Mill Valley/Stinson Beach/Highway 1 exit and continue straight for 1 mile to a stoplight at Shoreline Highway (Highway 1). Turn left on Shoreline Highway, drive 2.5 miles, and then turn right on Panoramic Highway. Drive 0.9 mile to a four-way intersection. Take the middle road (straight), continuing on Panoramic Highway for 4.3 more miles to Pantoll Road. Turn right on Pantoll Road and drive 1.4 miles to its intersection with Ridgecrest Boulevard, where there is a large parking area called Rock Spring. Park there and take the signed Cataract Trail from the north side of the lot.
Public transportation: The West Marin Stage Bus #61 stops at Pantoll Ranger Station at Mount Tamalpais State Park. From there, walk up Pantoll Road for 1.4 miles to the Rock Spring parking lot. For West Marin Stage information, phone 415/455-2000 or visit www.marintransit.org.
GPS Coordinates: N 37°91068’ W 122°61266’
Mount Tamalpais State Park
Best: Peak Vistas
Distance: 1.4 miles round-trip
Duration: 1 hour
Elevation Change: 170 feet
Effort: Easy
Users: Hikers
Season: Year-round
Passes/Fees: $8 day-use per vehicle
Maps: A trail map is available at the summit visitors center or Pantoll Ranger Station ($1) or at www.parks.ca.gov.
Contact: Mount Tamalpais State Park, 801 Panoramic Hwy., Mill Valley, 415/388-2070, www.friendsofmttam.org or www.parks.ca.gov
One of the Bay Area’s most famous peaks is circled by an easy loop trail that offers 360-degree views.
If it’s a clear day and you’re in the mood to feel on top of the world, head for the summit of Mount Tamalpais and the Verna Dunshee Trail. The trail is short, accessible to wheelchairs and strollers, and features absolutely top-notch views of Marin County, San Francisco, and points far beyond as it loops around the mountain’s summit. To add a little challenge to the trip, you can also hike the short but steep path to the tip-top of Mount Tamalpais East Peak, where a closed fire lookout tower allows for an all-in-one-glance panoramic view.
The drive up Mount Tamalpais is part of the adventure. From Pantoll Road upward, the mountainside views are compelling enough that you have to remind yourself to keep your eyes on the pavement. Close attention is essential, because the summit road is narrow and winding, leaving little room for error.
When at last you reach Mount Tamalpais’s high ridgeline, you pass the mountain’s West Peak first. That’s the one with the “huge white golf balls,” or radar dishes, at 2,560 feet in elevation. Next you pass the lower Middle Peak, and finally you wind up at the road’s end at the parking lot for Mount Tam’s East Peak. The East Peak is the highest summit of the three, at an elevation of 2,571 feet. (This may not sound especially high, but when you consider that the peak is surrounded primarily by ocean, bay, and sea-level land, it’s a considerable vertical rise.)
Leave your car and walk past the visitors center. If you show up on a weekend, the center will be open and you can obtain an interpretive brochure keyed to numbers painted on the asphalt on the Verna Dunshee Trail. Locate the trail just to the right of the restrooms; you walk counterclockwise on the paved loop.
Verna Dunshee Trail along Mount Tam’s East Peak
In the first few yards of trail, the manzanita grows so high and dense that the views are obscured—but not for long. Soon you emerge from the chaparral, and the views extend all the way south to San Francisco and southwest to the Pacific Ocean. On the best days, the Farallon Islands are visible some 25 miles out to sea.
As you head eastward, views of southern Marin County expand to include Richardson Bay, Angel Island, and Tiburon. Before you know it, you’re looking at the San Rafael-Richmond Bridge and across to the East Bay. Mount Diablo looms in the background. Far beyond it and rarely seen is the snowy Sierra crest.
About halfway through the loop, Temelpa Trail cuts off to the right; stay on the paved path and in a few more yards take the unsigned dirt path that leads along a northeast ridge of the summit. This puts you on a promontory directly overlooking southern and eastern Marin County. The tall buildings of downtown San Francisco glitter in the distance like the Emerald City.
Back on the main trail, you begin to circle around to the north, now looking toward San Rafael, Sonoma, and Napa. Yes, that’s Mount St. Helena near Calistoga far to the northwest. The lake shimmering in the foreground is Bon Tempe Lake near Fairfax. Mount Tamalpais’s West Peak obscures the western view, so finish out your loop by heading south to the visitors center and then make a sharp left turn on the Gardner Lookout Trail (also signed as Plank Walk Trail).
The first leg of Gardner Lookout’s ascending path is lined with old railroad ties. These serve as reminders of the days when the “Crookedest Railroad in the World” operated on Mount Tamalpais. In the early 1900s, no visit to San Francisco was complete without a ride on this train, which traveled up the mountain through a thrilling 281 curves. Alas, the railroad’s reign sadly ended with the advent of the automobile and the first road built to access the mountain’s summit.
The Gardner Lookout Trail makes a few steep switchbacks up to East Peak’s summit and its closed fire lookout tower, which was built in 1937. Although you can’t walk up to the tower’s deck (it’s lined with barbed wire), the view from its base is superb. Wander around on the East Peak’s summit boulders until you find the best spot to soak in the scenery. Be sure to bring a jacket with you; the wind often blows up here on even the balmiest days of summer. And you might want to time your trip for late in the day: The East Peak of Mount Tamalpais is one of the finest places in the Bay Area to watch the sun set.
If the short Verna Dunshee Trail is too tame for your hiking sensibilities, you can use it as a starting point for a much more strenuous loop. Follow Verna Dunshee Trail as detailed, but turn off after 0.25 mile at the signpost for Temelpa Trail. I hope you brought your hiking poles; this recklessly steep descent drops 700 feet in just under a mile. When you meet up with Vic Haun Trail (also called Old Plane Trail), turn right and hike downhill for another 0.5 mile to a junction with Hoo-Koo-E-Koo Fire Road. Turn right (westward), climb gently, and in 0.7 mile bear right to follow a stretch of Old Railroad Grade. Watch for the Fern Creek Trail turnoff in another 0.3 mile and then turn right and head back uphill, gaining another 700 feet over 0.7 mile on the way back to the East Peak parking area. If this grade is too steep for you, join the club. You can always exit Fern Creek Trail 0.3 mile uphill, turn left on Tavern Pump Trail for 0.3 mile, and then turn right on Old Railroad Grade for the last 0.5 mile to the parking lot. This option adds 0.5 mile to your trip but smooths out the grade to a somewhat more manageable level. The Temelpa-Fern Creek loop is 3.4 miles or 3.9 miles, depending on how you do it.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 4 miles. Take the Mill Valley/Stinson Beach/Highway 1 exit and continue straight for 1 mile to a stoplight at Shoreline Highway (Highway 1). Turn left on Shoreline Highway, drive 2.5 miles, and then turn right on Panoramic Highway. Drive 0.9 mile to a four-way intersection. Take the middle road (straight), continuing on Panoramic Highway for 4.3 more miles to Pantoll Road. Turn right on Pantoll Road and drive 1.4 miles to its intersection with Ridgecrest Boulevard. Turn right on Ridgecrest Boulevard and drive 2.9 miles to the East Peak parking area.
GPS Coordinates: N 37°92728’ W 122°58016’
Mount Tamalpais State Park
Best: Redwood Forests
Distance: 7.8 miles round-trip
Duration: 4 hours
Elevation Change: 1,500 feet
Effort: Moderate
Users: Hikers
Season: Year-round
Passes/Fees: None if you park legally in any pullout along the road; $8 day-use per vehicle if you park at the paved parking lot at Pantoll Ranger Station
Maps: A trail map is available at Pantoll Ranger Station ($1) or at www.parks.ca.gov.
Contact: Mount Tamalpais State Park, 801 Panoramic Hwy., Mill Valley, 415/388-2070, www.friendsofmttam.org or www.parks.ca.gov
This moderate loop delivers the best of Mount Tamalpais’s world-famous scenery, with flower-covered grasslands, coastal views, a dense redwood forest, and a cascading stream.
Matt Davis Trail curves a long, graceful arc from Mount Tamalpais’s Pantoll Ranger Station to the sea at Stinson Beach. Steep Ravine Trail makes a dramatic ascent alongside a boisterous stream in a steep-sided redwood canyon. Combine these two trails with a brief stretch on the Dipsea Trail and you have one of the best loop hikes in the San Francisco Bay Area.
It’s a classic Mount Tamalpais day hike, showing off the best of the state park’s attributes. On weekends, the route can be quite busy, particularly the scenic but narrow stretch of Steep Ravine Trail. (Many visitors hike this trail out and back, especially in the rainy season when Webb Creek is running hard.) On weekdays, you’re likely to have much less company, except for a few Marin locals who walk or run the loop on a regular basis. Here’s one of their secrets: If you start your hike around 10am, you can reach the bottom of Matt Davis Trail at Stinson Beach right around noon. Don’t bother packing a picnic lunch, because you can buy a hamburger (and most anything else) at Stinson and have a leisurely lunch on the beach. After refueling, you spend the afternoon hiking back uphill on Dipsea and Steep Ravine Trails. Now how’s that for a fine day?
The loop begins near Pantoll Ranger Station on Mount Tamalpais. Exit the Pantoll parking lot, cross Panoramic Highway to the start of Pantoll Road, and pick up Matt Davis Trail on the southwest side of Pantoll Road. A bench in the first 50 feet of trail invites you to sit and enjoy a partial view of the coast. This is the last open viewing spot you have for a while; the trail quickly leads into the trees.
Matt Davis Trail laterals along the slope of Mount Tamalpais some 1,500 feet above the ocean, maintaining an even, easy grade. After a long stretch in a mossy oak and bay woodland, the trail breaks out into grasslands, introducing panoramic views of San Francisco to the south and Point Reyes to the north. In some areas it’s hard to move onward; it’s tempting to stay put and relish the vistas. At 1.6 miles, the trail splits: Coastal Trail to the right and Matt Davis Trail to the left. Head left and begin your descent to Stinson Beach.
Hike downhill 0.7 mile through an enchanting forest of Douglas firs, oaks, and the graceful branches of bay laurel. Look for tall stalks of colorful red and yellow columbine along this shaded stretch in spring. At a signed turnoff for Table Rock, follow a spur trail a few feet to a large, flat boulder that overlooks the town of Stinson Beach and its long strip of sand and surf. Listen to the sound of the waves and enjoy a snack or stretching break before the final mile downhill to Stinson.
Back on the main trail, begin a series of short switchbacks accented with wooden stairs to soften the steep drop. Redwood railings edge the trail. Just below Table Rock, hike down Bischopf’s Steps (named for the trail builder who carefully constructed this stretch) and pass a delightful small cataract along Table Rock Creek. The cascading stream serenades you as you descend; you cross it repeatedly on wooden footbridges. Its noise competes with the roar of nearby ocean breakers.
A sign states Caution: Rattlesnake Area just before the trail reaches the park boundary. Turn left at the signed boundary and junction, cross a footbridge, and reach an unsigned fork in 100 yards. Bear right and walk down to Belvedere Avenue in Stinson Beach, now 4 miles from your start at Pantoll. It’s decision time: Do you want to forge ahead on the loop or make a stop at Stinson Beach for a hamburger and a suntan?
For the latter, follow Belvedere Avenue downhill about 200 feet, past the community center and firehouse, to Highway 1. Turn right and head for the shops, restaurants, and beach access in Stinson. To continue on the loop, turn left on Highway 1 instead. Walk 200 feet along the left side of the highway to an obvious trail that begins with a set of wooden stairs. Follow this path, which crosses Panoramic Highway as it stretches downhill from Mount Tamalpais, and you are now on the Dipsea Trail for the return leg of your loop.
In contrast to Matt Davis Trail’s steep forested canyon, Dipsea Trail traverses sunny, exposed slopes. The trail makes a gradual climb through coastal scrub and grasslands, affording nonstop ocean views over your right shoulder, and then heads into a dense bay laurel forest. In 1.3 miles, Dipsea Trail joins with Steep Ravine Trail. Turn left on Steep Ravine and begin a more serious climb along Webb Creek, rising 1,000 feet in 2 miles. Redwoods and Douglas firs tower over the cascading stream. In spring, colorful Chinese houses, calypso orchids, and trillium bloom in the shady understory. Wooden footbridges cross the creek a half-dozen times. You need to duck and scramble under fallen redwood trunks and then climb a 10-foot ladder over a tricky trail stretch where Webb Creek is constricted by large boulders. All the while, pause repeatedly to admire the myriad crystal pools and small waterfalls on Webb Creek and the multitude of ferns at streamside. Look for sword ferns, huge Woodwardia ferns, and delicate five-finger ferns.
Stairsteps line the steepest parts of Steep Ravine.
Too soon, the trail ends at the parking lot at Pantoll Ranger Station. But the entire loop is so good that you may be tempted to turn around and hike it all over again.
An unusual feature of this loop is that it works well heading in either direction and starting at either end. If you prefer your uphill at the start, not the finish, begin this loop in Stinson Beach (leave your car at the Stinson Beach parking lot or in a legal space downtown). You can refill your water bottles at Pantoll Ranger Station, almost halfway through the loop. Make your lunch stop at one of the coastal viewpoints just off the Matt Davis Trail. The grade on Matt Davis Trail is somewhat easier than on Steep Ravine, so for the easiest loop, head uphill on Matt Davis and return downhill on Steep Ravine.
The tiny town of Stinson Beach offers several great choices for lunch, including the longtime favorite Parkside Café (43 Arenal Ave., 415/868-1272, www.parksidecafe.com) and its neighboring take-out snack bar right by the beach. The snack bar opened in 1949 and is known for its burgers, fries, and soft-serve ice cream. The Parkside Café restaurant serves a full breakfast, lunch, and dinner menu.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 4 miles. Take the Mill Valley/Stinson Beach/Highway 1 exit and continue straight for 1 mile to a stoplight at Shoreline Highway (Highway 1). Turn left on Shoreline Highway, drive 2.5 miles, and then turn right on Panoramic Highway. Drive 0.9 mile to a four-way intersection. Take the middle road (straight), continuing on Panoramic Highway for 4.3 more miles to the Pantoll Ranger Station and parking lot. Turn left to park in the lot, take the steps on the northwest side of the lot, cross Panoramic Highway, and access Matt Davis/Coastal Trail near the start of Pantoll Road, on its southwest side. Limited parking is also available in the small parking lot at the start of Pantoll Road. The trail begins across the road from this parking lot.
Public transportation: The West Marin Stage Bus #61 stops at Pantoll Ranger Station at Mount Tamalpais State Park. For West Marin Stage information, phone 415/455-2000 or visit www.marintransit.org.
GPS Coordinates: N 37°90376’ W 122°60418’
Mount Tamalpais State Park and Marin Municipal Water District
Distance: 5 miles round-trip
Duration: 2.5 hours
Elevation Change: 500 feet or 1,300 feet
Effort: Easy/moderate
Users: Hikers, cyclists (Old Stage Road and Old Railroad Grade only), leashed dogs (allowed on all Marin Water District lands; only on Old Stage Road in Mount Tamalpais State Park)
Season: Summer
Passes/Fees: Free if you park legally in any pullout along the road; $8 day-use per vehicle if you park at the paved parking lot at Pantoll Ranger Station
Maps: A trail map is available at Pantoll Ranger Station ($1) or at www.parks.ca.gov.
Contact: Mount Tamalpais State Park, 801 Panoramic Hwy., Mill Valley, 415/388-2070, www.friendsofmttam.org or www.parks.ca.gov
Travel back in time and explore some of Mount Tam’s history on this gentle loop hike.
This Mount Tamalpais trail is for history lovers. Marin’s beloved mountain was once the home of the “Crookedest Railroad in the World,” which weaved its way from Mill Valley to Mount Tamalpais’s summit through 8 miles and 281 curves. The gravity car railroad, a popular tourist attraction, put Mount Tamalpais on the map in the late 1800s. This 5-mile loop hike visits historic mountain sites and supplies first-rate views and scenery along the way.
Start your trip at Pantoll Ranger Station. Cross Panoramic Highway and pick up paved Old Stage Road, to the right of Pantoll Road. A 0.25-mile walk brings you to a series of junctions; take the path signed as Easy Grade Trail to Mountain Theater. You climb steadily for 0.8 mile, soon losing the noise of the nearby road as you head deeper into oak woodland. A surprise awaits when you come out of the trees and onto the stage of Mountain Theater—rows of stone bench seats in a tree-shaded amphitheater.
Formally named the Sidney Cushing Memorial Theater, after the builder of the Mount Tamalpais Scenic Railway, Mountain Theater is an open-air, natural stone amphitheater that seats up to 3,500 people. Reconstructed in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps, the theater has hosted the annual Mountain Play (415/383-1100, www.mountainplay.org) every summer since 1913. A Marin County tradition, the Mountain Play brings playgoers up the slopes of Mount Tam carrying blankets and picnic baskets for an afternoon of theater.
Walk to the far side of the stage and then up along the right (east) side of the rock bench seats. Near the top of the theater, on your right, is Rock Spring Trail. Follow it and enjoy a level stroll with frequent views toward the coast and San Francisco. In 1.5 miles, the trail makes an easy descent to West Point Inn. The inn was built by the railroad in 1914 as a restaurant and stopover for passengers who were getting off the train and picking up the stagecoach to ride down to Stinson Beach or Bolinas.
After the rail days ended, the building came under the jurisdiction of the Marin Water District, and is now operated by a nonprofit group. You can purchase drinks and snacks at West Point Inn (415/388-9955, www.westpointinn.com, 11am-6pm Tues.-Sun. summer, 11am-5pm Tues.-Sun. winter). Restrooms and picnic areas are available all the time. The inn holds Sunday pancake breakfasts once a month April-October and has five cabins and seven rooms for rent. Although there is no electricity, propane is used for light, heat, and refrigeration. A small sign on West Point Inn’s front door conveys its simple philosophy: “You may use the parlor if you keep it tidy.”
Hikers, bikers, and history lovers will enjoy a stop at West Point Inn.
The inn’s real draw is not the parlor but the view from its deck, which takes in a wide expanse of San Francisco Bay, the Bay Bridge and the Richmond Bridge, Larkspur Landing, and San Francisco. Seen on a clear day, the view is hard to forget.
To complete a 5-mile loop, you have two options: You can follow Nora Trail from the front of the inn steeply downhill for 0.5 mile to Matt Davis Trail. Turn right on Matt Davis and hike back to the base of Old Stage Road, near Pantoll Ranger Station. Although this is a scenic trail with coastal views and a nice stand of redwoods, it suffers from too much road noise from Panoramic Highway, especially on weekend afternoons. A quieter alternative that affords equally fine views is to follow Old Stage Road downhill from the inn for 2 miles back to Pantoll. This trail is not for hikers only, however; you’ll share it with mountain bikers, so be alert.
If you seek a more strenuous hike, you can add on a trek to the summit of Mount Tamalpais for an 8.5-mile semi-loop trip. At West Point Inn, continue uphill on Old Railroad Grade for 1.5 steep, rocky miles to the East Peak parking lot. The wide trail is exposed and brushy, with occasional Douglas firs and Bishop pines mixed in with the chaparral. Views of the summit above and the forested slopes below provide continual inspiration.
Once at the 2,571-foot summit, stroll the short, view-filled Verna Dunshee Trail or walk up to the closed Gardner Fire Lookout (see Verna Dunshee Trail and Gardner Lookout listing in this chapter). Both paths reward you with some of the Bay Area’s best views. Then retrace your steps to West Point Inn and finish out the trip as described earlier.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 4 miles. Take the Mill Valley/Stinson Beach/Highway 1 exit and continue straight for 1 mile to a stoplight at Shoreline Highway (Highway 1). Turn left on Shoreline Highway, drive 2.5 miles, and then turn right on Panoramic Highway. Drive 0.9 mile to a four-way intersection. Take the middle road (straight), continuing on Panoramic Highway for 4.3 more miles to the Pantoll Ranger Station and parking lot. Turn left to park in the lot and then walk across Panoramic Highway to the start of Pantoll Road. Take the paved road on the right, signed Authorized Vehicles Only; this is the start of Old Stage Road.
Public transportation: The West Marin Stage Bus #61 stops at Pantoll Ranger Station at Mount Tamalpais State Park. For West Marin Stage information, phone 415/455-2000 or visit www.marintransit.org.
GPS Coordinates: N 37°90376’ W 122°60418’’
Mount Tamalpais State Park
Best: Wildflower Displays
Distance: 6.8 miles round-trip
Duration: 3 hours
Elevation Change: 700 feet
Effort: Moderate
Users: Hikers, leashed dogs (Cataract Trail and Laurel Dell Fire Road only in Marin Municipal Water District land)
Season: Year-round
Passes/Fees: Free if you park legally in any pullout along the road; $8 day-use per vehicle if you park at the paved parking lot at Pantoll Ranger Station
Maps: A trail map is available at Pantoll Ranger Station ($1) or at www.parks.ca.gov.
Contact: Mount Tamalpais State Park, 801 Panoramic Hwy., Mill Valley, 415/388-2070, www.friendsofmttam.org or www.parks.ca.gov
It’s all about the vistas and the wildflowers on this guaranteed-to-please day hike on Mount Tamalpais.
Is it a clear day in the San Francisco Bay Area? If so, then your mission is obvious: Lace up your hiking boots and head for this loop trail in Mount Tamalpais State Park. The Coastal, Cataract, and Old Mine Loop offers the best of all worlds—secluded forest groves laced with small, coursing streams, wide grasslands covered with lupine and poppies in the spring, and grand vistas of city and sea. And don’t forget to pack your lunch. Tempting picnic spots are as abundant as black-tailed deer on Mount Tamalpais.
Start your trip on the Matt Davis/Coastal Trail near Pantoll Ranger Station. After an initial glimpse at the ocean near the trail’s start, you head into a dense mixed hardwood forest and remain there for less than a mile. The beauty is close at hand—thick moss growing like fur on the bay laurel trees, dense ferns clustered on the banks of seasonal streams, and dappled sunlight filtering through the canopy of leaves.
Just as your eyes grow accustomed to the low light of the forest, the trail suddenly opens out to wide, sloping grasslands and bright sunshine. In spring, the mountain’s wildflowers burst into colorful display, spurred on by cooling fog and plentiful sunlight. The blue and gold of poppies and lupine make you feel a rush of patriotism for California’s state colors. Because you can see so far and wide down the grassy slopes of Mount Tamalpais, views are extraordinary. The Pacific Ocean glitters in the distance. From this perspective, you may spot deer on a hillside a mile away or a couple of miniature hikers having lunch on a rock, looking like pieces out of a model train set.
From your vantage point on the Coastal Trail, the mountain slopes drop 1,500 feet to the ocean. The farther you walk, the wider your view becomes, until it finally stretches from the San Francisco skyline in the south to Stinson Beach and Bolinas in the north and then still farther north to the Point Reyes peninsula. If you ever wanted to explain to someone how immense the ocean is relative to the size of the land, this would be the place to do it.
Coastal Trail crosses the rolling slopes of Mount Tamalpais, which are carpeted with wildflowers in spring.
Don’t miss following an unmarked spur trail on the left at 1.6 miles in, just before the Coastal Trail/Matt Davis Trail fork. A short climb to a grassy knoll brings you to Coastal Trail’s best view of the day, encompassing the entire Marin County coast. Soak in the scenery for as long as you please and then return to the main trail. At the nearby fork, Matt Davis Trail heads downhill to Stinson Beach (see Matt Davis and Steep Ravine Loop listing in this chapter). Take the right fork on Coastal Trail, continuing gently uphill.
Where Coastal Trail meets Willow Camp Fire Road at 3.3 miles out, turn right and climb steeply uphill for a brief stretch. Look for a side trail cutting off the fire road to the left; this delivers you to paved Ridgecrest Boulevard at its junction with Laurel Dell Fire Road. Cross the paved road (watch for cars) and then take Laurel Dell Fire Road. The dirt and gravel road makes a gentle descent through a mossy, shady bay forest to the edge of Cataract Creek. Watch for a right turn marked as Ray Murphy Trail to Cataract Trail; a footbridge carries you across the creek. If you miss it, you can stay on the fire road until it crosses the creek near Laurel Dell and then pick up Cataract Trail on its far side.
Cataract Trail parallels its namesake stream, passing within arm’s length of the mossy trunks of bays and tan oaks in a dense forest canopy. The trail opens out to a meadow near Rock Spring and then deposits you at the Rock Spring parking lot. Cross Ridgecrest Boulevard again and pick up Mountain Theater Fire Road on its far side, a few yards to the left. A brief, steep climb and a right turn on Old Mine Trail take you to high views of San Pablo Bay, the Richmond Bridge, and San Francisco. Perhaps this vista is so striking because the glittering, urban cityscape contrasts sharply with Cataract and Coastal Trails’ all-natural beauty. A few large boulders on a grassy knoll make an ideal viewing platform.
Follow Old Mine Trail back downhill for 1 mile to paved Old Stage Road. The path drops 500 feet through a series of steep switchbacks. Finally, turn right on Old Stage Road and walk back to your car at Pantoll Ranger Station.
Another view-filled hike that starts at Pantoll Ranger Station is the 3.6-mile Dipsea and Steep Ravine Loop. This loop starts from the Pantoll parking lot (you don’t need to cross Panoramic Highway). Follow the paved trail from the far end of the parking lot a few hundred feet to Old Mine Trail. In 0.5 mile, go left on a fire road and then almost immediately turn right on Dipsea Trail. This trail is part of the famous 7-mile Dipsea Race that is run from Mill Valley to Stinson Beach every spring. At 2 miles from the start, cross a bridge and go right on Steep Ravine Trail for the climb back uphill. (For more details on redwood-lined Steep Ravine Trail, see Matt Davis and Steep Ravine Loop listing in this chapter.)
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 4 miles. Take the Mill Valley/Stinson Beach/Highway 1 exit and continue straight for 1 mile to a stoplight at Shoreline Highway (Highway 1). Turn left on Shoreline Highway, drive 2.5 miles, and then turn right on Panoramic Highway. Drive 0.9 mile to a four-way intersection. Take the middle road (straight), continuing on Panoramic Highway for 4.3 more miles to the Pantoll Ranger Station and parking lot. Turn left to park in the lot, take the steps on the northwest side of the lot, cross Panoramic Highway, and access Matt Davis/Coastal Trail near the start of Pantoll Road, on its southwest side. Limited parking is also available in the small parking lot at the start of Pantoll Road. The trail begins across the road from this parking lot.
Public transportation: The West Marin Stage Bus #61 stops at Pantoll Ranger Station at Mount Tamalpais State Park. For West Marin Stage information, phone 415/455-2000 or visit www.marintransit.org.
GPS Coordinates: N 37°90376’ W 122°60418’
Muir Woods National Monument, near Mill Valley
Distance: 3.4 miles round-trip
Duration: 1.5 hours
Elevation Change: 800 feet
Effort: Easy/moderate
Users: Hikers
Season: Winter and early spring
Passes/Fees: admission $10 adults 16 and over, parking $8, shuttle $3 adults 16 and over
Maps: A trail map is available at the entrance station ($2) or at www.nps.gov/muwo.
Contact: Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, 415/388-2595, www.nps.gov/muwo
A short but steep hike in Muir Woods shows off its famous coastal redwoods and coursing stream.
The redwoods at Muir Woods National Monument are true beauties. The foliage growing in the big trees’ understory—bays, tan oak, thimbleberry, sword ferns, and sorrel—is lush and green year-round. Redwood Creek, which cuts through the center of the park, is a pristine, coursing stream.
No doubt about it, Muir Woods is a winner. Its only drawback is its popularity. This tiny national monument, not much larger than a few city blocks, is visited by more than one million people each year.
How do you hike in the park and see its magnificent trees without getting run over by the crowds? Summer is the busiest time, of course, so it’s best to avoid May-September altogether. Weekends tend to be more crowded than weekdays, but weekdays bring school groups. (Thirty sixth-graders on a field trip can be rather boisterous.) The best choice? Try to show up early in the morning (as in 8am), when the park gates open. During the week, the school buses and tour buses don’t usually arrive until 9 or 10am; on weekends, most visitors don’t show up until midmorning. An 8am start any day of the week should give you at least a two-hour window of peace among the redwoods. Winter and early spring are the least crowded and also the loveliest seasons, when Redwood Creek runs full and high.
And don’t worry about visiting on a rainy day; just pack your rain gear. A redwood forest is the best place to hike in the rain. You’ll be partially protected by the big trees, and the drops of water on every fern, branch, and leaf only accentuate their beauty.
Start your trip from the entrance gate to Muir Woods near the small visitors center. The park’s main trail is a wide, boardwalk-lined trail that is mostly flat and runs along the bottom of the canyon, passing the most impressive redwoods. You walk the entire length of this trail on your return. For now, bear right, and in about 100 yards you reach a fork with Canopy View Trail. Follow this trail up the hillside to the right.
A gentle climb up Canopy View Trail leads hikers away from the Muir Woods crowds.
The path is completely forested, but the redwood trees are younger and smaller than in the canyon below and interspersed with many Douglas firs. Canopy View Trail climbs moderately, curving around the canyon until it reaches an unsigned junction with Lost Trail on the left at 1.5 miles. Note this junction and then continue straight for 200 yards until Canopy View Trail emerges from the forest just below Panoramic Highway, a busy road. A large boulder rests on the hillside between the trail and the road; this is the best spot to obtain a long-distance vista. On a sunny day, it’s a nice viewpoint, looking out over the forests of Muir Woods below.
When you’ve had your fill of sunshine, return to the shade of the woods and the Lost Trail junction. Bear right on Lost Trail, now heading downhill. Similar to Canopy View Trail, Lost Trail weaves through a young redwood, Douglas fir, and bay forest. Soon it descends more steeply on railroad-tie stairsteps, and in 0.7 mile it connects with Fern Creek Trail. Fern Creek is a seasonal tributary to Redwood Creek, the main stream that flows through Muir Woods’ canyon. Fern Creek Trail follows Fern Creek’s delightful course for 0.5 mile, crossing it on two footbridges.
Near the end of Fern Creek Trail, you pass a sign marking the border of Muir Woods National Monument. In a few more steps, you’re at the base of the Kent Memorial, a very large Douglas fir tree dedicated to the man who was responsible for the creation of this park.
There’s a wonderful story about Congressman William Kent. He and his wife purchased this land and granted it to the federal government in 1905 under the condition that it be named for the naturalist John Muir. When President Theodore Roosevelt suggested the forest be named “Kent Woods” instead, Kent refused, saying he believed that naming the forest after himself was an implication that immortality could be bought, not earned.
“So many millions of better people have died forgotten,” Kent wrote. “I have five good, husky boys that I am trying to bring up to a knowledge of democracy. If these boys cannot keep the name of Kent alive, I am willing it should be forgotten.”
Roosevelt wrote back: “By George, you are right. Good for you, and for the five boys who are to keep the name of Kent alive. I have four boys who I hope will do the same thing by the name of Roosevelt.”
Roosevelt officially created Muir Woods National Monument in 1908. The loop trail ends with a 0.75-mile walk from the Kent Memorial back down the park’s wide main trail to your starting point. (For more information on Muir Woods’ main trail, see Bootjack, Ben Johnson, and Hillside Trail Loop listing in this chapter.)
A slightly longer hike from Muir Woods is a 4.2-mile loop that combines Canopy View, Redwood, Sun, and Dipsea Trails. Follow Canopy View Trail uphill almost to Panoramic Highway, as described earlier in this listing, and then turn right on Redwood Trail. Soon you gain the ocean views you didn’t get on Canopy View Trail. In 1 mile, you reach an unusual-looking building called the Tourist Club (415/388-9987, www.touristclubsf.org), a branch of the Nature Friends organization. The club was founded in the early 1900s by German immigrants; the private hiking group offers refreshments most weekends 1pm-5pm. Near the club, Redwood Trail connects to Sun Trail, which runs 0.7 mile to a junction with Dipsea Trail. Turn right on Dipsea, which crosses Muir Woods Road and drops back down to Muir Woods parking lot in 1 mile.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 4 miles. Take the Mill Valley/Stinson Beach/Highway 1 exit and continue straight for 1 mile to a stoplight at Shoreline Highway (Highway 1). Turn left on Shoreline Highway, drive 2.5 miles, and then turn right on Panoramic Highway. Drive 0.9 mile and turn left on Muir Woods Road. Drive 1.5 miles to the Muir Woods parking area.
Parking and reservations: As of January 2018, all visitors to Muir Woods National Monument must reserve a parking space or a seat on the Muir Woods Shuttle in advance by phone or online (800/410-2419, www.gomuirwoods.com, $8 parking space, $3 shuttle seat for adults 16 and over). When reserving, you will need to choose an arrival time if you’re driving or a departure time if you’re taking the shuttle.
Reservations are made available 90 days in advance. A limited number of reservations are released 5 days prior to any given date to accommodate last minute visitors. Day-of reservations must still be made online or by phone and are subject to availability.
Demand for reservations will be high, so book a reservation as far in advance as possible. Be sure to also download your reservation in advance, as there is no cell phone service or WiFi at or around Muir Woods.
Shuttle information: The Muir Woods Shuttle serves three bus stop locations in Sausalito: Pohono Park & Ride (100 Shoreline Hwy., free parking available), Sausalito Ferry (Bay & Bridgeway, minimal paid parking available), and Marin City Hub (Donahue & Terners, no parking).
You’ll need to reserve a seat in advance by phone or online (800/410-2419, www.gomuirwoods.com, $3 adults 16 and older, free children 15 and under). The shuttle runs every weekend and on holidays throughout the year, as well as on weekdays from June 18-August 10. Timetables and transit connections for the Muir Woods Shuttle are online at www.marintransit.org/routes/66.
GPS Coordinates: N 37°89139’ W 122°56908’
Muir Woods National Monument and Mount Tamalpais State Park
Best: Redwood Forests
Distance: 6.4 miles round-trip
Duration: 3 hours
Elevation Change: 1,100 feet
Effort: Moderate
Users: Hikers
Season: Winter and early spring
Passes/Fees: admission $10 adults 16 and over, parking $8, shuttle $3 adults 16 and over
Maps: A trail map is available at the entrance station ($2) or at www.nps.gov/muwo.
Contact: Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, 415/388-2595, www.nps.gov/muwo
Tour the main thoroughfare at Muir Woods National Monument to see the famous trees and then leave the crowds behind as you explore quieter woods and meadows.
Muir Woods National Monument is filled with natural gems, like its virgin grove of coast redwoods and pristine Redwood Creek. But Muir Woods is small. If you want to hike any distance, you must leave the monument’s borders and explore the adjoining lands of Mount Tamalpais State Park. This loop trail starts and ends in the monument and explores the best of it before making a brief tour of the equally dense redwood forest beyond its boundary.
The loop begins on the main trail in Muir Woods, a wide, boardwalk-lined path through the big trees that is usually packed with people. (For tips on how to avoid the Muir Woods crowds, see Canopy View, Lost Trail, and Fern Creek Loop listing in this chapter.) Follow the main trail as it parallels Redwood Creek and relax in the knowledge that you will soon leave most visitors behind. (You know you’re in a heavily visited urban park when signs proclaim “Help keep the creek clean. Do not throw coins in the water.”)
If you’ve visited the coast redwood forests in Redwood National Park and its neighboring state parks, you may be surprised to find that the redwoods in Muir Woods are not as big. Whereas the trees around Redwood National Park grow to 20 feet in diameter, the broadest tree in Muir Woods is only 13.5 feet in diameter. What the Muir Woods redwoods lack in girth, however, they make up for in setting: They thrive in a steep, lush, stream-filled canyon that appears almost mystical on a foggy or rainy day. The monument’s highlights include the dense stands of ancient redwoods in the Cathedral Grove and Bohemian Grove. The latter has some of the tallest trees in the park at 250 feet.
The main trail has been substantially modified over time; bridges were put in place, and the Park Service installed a boardwalk made of recycled redwood to help protect the big trees’ fragile roots. (The boardwalk was moved a few yards away from Redwood Creek to help the fish that return each year to spawn.) If you visit the park in winter, you may be lucky enough to spot some of the native wild population of steelhead trout or coho salmon. The fish are born in Redwood Creek, live out their adult lives in the Pacific Ocean, and then return here to breed and die.
Continue down the main trail, passing the Fern Creek Trail and Camp Alice Eastwood Trail turnoffs. In a few more yards, you reach the pavement’s end at a junction with Bootjack Trail, which continues on a smooth dirt path along the stream to the right. You are now 1 mile from Muir Woods’ entrance, and you’ve likely left the crowds far behind.
The main trail at Muir Woods leads along the valley floor past the largest redwoods.
Bootjack Trail makes an easy to moderate ascent along Redwood Creek, passing a cornucopia of splashing cascades in winter. The trail stays close to the water’s edge, making this a perfect rainy season hike for white-water lovers. The forest is a dense mix of big-leaf maples, bays, and redwoods. Bootjack Trail steepens a bit and then travels up wooden stairs fashioned from old park signs until it tops out at Van Wyck Meadow, 1.3 miles from Muir Woods. The postage stamp-size meadow has a big boulder to sunbathe on and a brown sign stating “Van Wyck Meadow, population 3 Steller’s jays.”
Enjoy this peaceful spot and its sunshine and then turn left on TCC Trail to head back into the woods. (The path is signed as TCC Trail to Stapelveldt Trail.) TCC Trail meanders on a nearly level course through young, slender Douglas firs for 1.4 miles. Most noticeable is the silence—for the first time on this loop hike, you’re nowhere near a boisterous creek. Cross a bridge, and where you reach two junctions immediately following one another (both for Dipsea Trail), bear left at both. You wind up on Stapelveldt Trail, heading for Ben Johnson Trail in 0.5 mile.
Now you’re back in a wetter forest again, featuring many graceful, mossy bay trees. At the junction with Ben Johnson Trail, turn left to find yourself back in the redwoods. Many of these trees rival the size and beauty of those on the monument’s main trail.
In the last mile of the trip, you have a choice: Turn left to walk the main canyon trail back to the park entrance, or turn right to walk Hillside Trail above the canyon. Hillside Trail deposits you at Bridge 2 on the main trail, where you turn right and walk the last few yards back to your car.
On busy weekend days at Muir Woods, hikers who want to see the big redwoods might do well to walk into the national monument instead of driving. To do so, park at the trailhead across from Mountain Home Inn on Panoramic Highway. (Continue past the Muir Woods Road turnoff for about 1.5 miles to the parking lot on the left.) Take Alice Eastwood Road downhill to Alice Eastwood Group Camp (www.reservecalifornia.com, $110 per night) and then follow Plevin Cut and Camp Eastwood Trails into Muir Woods. Wander among the big trees as you please before heading back uphill on Fern Creek and Lost Trails. This is a 3-mile round-trip (plus you can add on more miles while you are in the monument).
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 4 miles. Take the Mill Valley/Stinson Beach/Highway 1 exit and continue straight for 1 mile to a stoplight at Shoreline Highway (Highway 1). Turn left on Shoreline Highway, drive 2.5 miles, and then turn right on Panoramic Highway. Drive 0.9 mile and turn left on Muir Woods Road. Drive 1.5 miles to the Muir Woods parking area.
Parking and reservations: As of January 2018, all visitors to Muir Woods National Monument must reserve a parking space or a seat on the Muir Woods Shuttle in advance by phone or online (800/410-2419, www.gomuirwoods.com, $8 parking space, $3 shuttle seat for adults 16 and over). When reserving, you will need to choose an arrival time if you’re driving or a departure time if you’re taking the shuttle.
Reservations are made available 90 days in advance. A limited number of reservations are released 5 days prior to any given date to accommodate last minute visitors. Day-of reservations must still be made online or by phone and are subject to availability.
Demand for reservations will be high, so book a reservation as far in advance as possible. Be sure to also download your reservation in advance, as there is no cell phone service or WiFi at or around Muir Woods.
Shuttle information: The Muir Woods Shuttle serves three bus stop locations in Sausalito: Pohono Park & Ride (100 Shoreline Hwy., free parking available), Sausalito Ferry (Bay & Bridgeway, minimal paid parking available), and Marin City Hub (Donahue & Terners, no parking).
You’ll need to reserve a seat in advance by phone or online (800/410-2419, www.gomuirwoods.com, $3 adults 16 and older, free children 15 and under). The shuttle runs every weekend and on holidays throughout the year, as well as on weekdays from June 18-August 10. Timetables and transit connections for the Muir Woods Shuttle are online at www.marintransit.org/routes/66.
GPS Coordinates: N 37°89139’ W 122°56908’
Golden Gate National Recreation Area
Distance: 7 miles round-trip
Duration: 4 hours
Elevation Change: 1,800 feet
Effort: Strenuous
Users: Hikers, cyclists (fire roads only), dogs (on Coastal Trail up to its junction with Tennessee Valley Trail)
Season: Year-round
Passes/Fees: None
Maps: A map is available at the Marin Headlands Visitor Center or at www.nps.gov/goga.
Contact: Marin Headlands Visitor Center, Fort Barry, Bldg. 948, Sausalito, 415/331-1540, 9:30am-4:30pm daily
Nonstop coastal views are yours for the taking on this spectacular bluff trail that skirts the edge of the Marin Headlands.
The Coastal Trail in the Marin Headlands runs along the bluffs from Muir Beach to Rodeo Beach and then heads inland around Point Bonita and meanders a bit until it winds up at the Golden Gate Bridge. It’s 11 miles one-way to hike the whole thing, but there’s a better, shorter option for beach lovers. The stretch that stays closest to the ocean for the longest distance runs between Muir Beach and Tennessee Beach in southern Marin County. An out-and-back hike from the trailhead at Muir Beach provides a 7-mile round-trip with three beaches to visit and nonstop coastal views.
Know before you go: This is not a level, easy walk. Coastal Trail climbs, then descends, and then climbs again, at times with a vengeance. An advantage to starting your trip at Muir Beach is that if you tire of the trail’s continual ups and downs, you can always skip the final descent to Tennessee Beach and the ensuing return climb. An abbreviated walk on the Coastal Trail is almost as good as the whole thing.
Start by locating the trailhead, which is southwest of the Muir Beach parking lot. Walk across a footbridge spanning the marsh (watch for river otters as you cross the bridge—their numbers are increasing in this area) to join Kaashi Way to the Coastal Trail. Take the wide fire road to the right and immediately make a steep, quick climb up a ridge. Follow the single-track spur to the right to reach the trail’s first overlook point, where you can catch your breath and enjoy a view to the north of Muir Beach’s picturesque, semi-circular cove and small community of homes. In spring, poppies, lupine, and tidy tips bloom in abundance along the coastal bluffs.
The Coastal Trail makes steep climbs and descents as it follows the contour of the coastal bluffs.
Regain the main path at a major junction of trails; stay to the right along the coast. (For the next 2 miles, Coastal Trail is a single-track trail for hikers only. Mountain bikers must keep to the fire roads.)
Coastal Trail descends, bestowing wide views of the crashing surf below. Straight ahead to the south you can observe the line of ridges and valleys and pick out your final destination at Tennessee Cove. An intermediate destination is reached at 2 miles from the trailhead; watch for an unsigned spur trail leading to tiny, rocky Pirate’s Cove. (Just before the spur, the main trail heads inland to curve around the cove’s inlet stream.) Follow the short but steep spur path to what must be Marin County’s smallest and most secluded beach. Rest up while you’re there; the next 0.5 mile is a steep ascent that gains 550 feet.
March your way uphill through the sweaty climb. A series of wooden stairs makes the workout a little easier. At the end of the ascent, you reach a junction of trails and a rewarding viewpoint. Here, on a flat, high bluff, you’re provided with a 360-degree panorama of the Pacific Ocean to the west, Tennessee Valley and its blue lagoon to the south, Bolinas and Point Reyes to the north, and the San Francisco skyline to the southwest. To the east are the pastoral rolling hills of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area.
Consider your position carefully before continuing onward to Tennessee Valley. If you’re tiring out, this high point makes an excellent turnaround, and most of your return trip is downhill. But if you have energy to burn, head steeply downhill on the wide dirt road to Tennessee Valley, turn right on Tennessee Valley Trail, and take a level stroll to the beach. You pass a bird-covered lagoon and an abundance of coastal chaparral along the way. (For more information on Tennessee Beach, see Tennessee Valley Trail listing in this chapter.) Enjoy your stay at this postcard-perfect, black-sand beach and then shore up your energy for the hilly return trip.
Note that your dog may accompany you on this hike right up to the point where Coastal Trail joins Tennessee Valley Trail, but canines must do an about-face where the trails junction. Although dogs are allowed at Muir Beach, they are not permitted at Tennessee Beach, nor on its trail.
You’ll find more beaches to explore just north of Muir Beach. To access them, drive north on Highway 1 for 1.2 miles to the Muir Beach Overlook. Park in the lot and then follow Owl Trail as it heads north and downhill for one mile to Slide Ranch (2025 Shoreline Hwy., 415/381-6155, sunrise-sunset, free). The ranch, a popular destination for school field trips, is an educational center with farm animals and vegetable gardens. Continue past the ranch to two beach spur trails; one leads 0.25 mile to North Beach and the other travels the same distance to South Beach. Take your pick. Both “beaches” are rocky coves with crashing waves and much eye-candy coastal drama, but neither has much to offer in terms of sand.
No trip to Muir Beach is complete without a meal or a pint at the Tudor-style Pelican Inn (10 Pacific Way, 415/383-6000, www.pelicaninn.com), just 0.5 mile from this trailhead. Have a seat in this dark-wood pub and you’ll feel like you’re in 16th-century England.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 4 miles. Take the Mill Valley/Stinson Beach/Highway 1 exit and continue straight for 1 mile to a stoplight at Shoreline Highway (Highway 1). Turn left on Shoreline Highway, drive 5.2 miles, and then turn left on Pacific Way (by the Pelican Inn). Drive 0.5 mile on Pacific Way to the Muir Beach parking lot. The trail begins on the southwest side of the lot near the restrooms.
GPS Coordinates: N 37°86096’ W 122°57531’
Golden Gate National Recreation Area, Mill Valley
Distance: 4 miles round-trip
Duration: 2 hours
Elevation Change: 150 feet
Effort: Easy
Users: Hikers, cyclists
Season: Year-round
Passes/Fees: None
Maps: A map is available at the Marin Headlands Visitor Center or at www.nps.gov/goga.
Contact: Marin Headlands Visitor Center, Fort Barry, Bldg. 948, Sausalito, 415/331-1540, 9:30am-4:30pm daily
This is a family-friendly walk to a dramatic black-sand beach in the Marin Headlands.
The Tennessee Valley Trail is one of the most popular trails in the Golden Gate National Recreation Area and probably the most heavily used trail in all of Marin County. But don’t let the crowds scare you away. Time your trip for an early morning or a weekday to enjoy a peaceful, easy walk to a postcard-quality beach.
Aside from the first-class scenery, the main reason for the crowds at Tennessee Valley is its proximity to the homes of thousands of San Francisco and Marin residents. Mount Tamalpais is only a few miles up the road from Tennessee Valley, but it’s a steep, winding drive to get there. Tennessee Valley is in the flats, close to town and U.S. 101. Plus, Tennessee Valley Trail is open to bikers as well as hikers, and it’s a popular route for runners and parents pushing baby strollers. Fortunately, the route is wide enough so there’s plenty of room for everybody. Trail conflicts are rare to nonexistent.
The trail begins as a paved route by Miwok Stables (701 Tennessee Valley Rd., 415/383-8048, www.miwokstables.com), which offers horse rentals and riding lessons. Shortly the pavement forks left, and the main trail continues straight as a wide dirt road. The mostly level path follows a creek bed between tall grassy ridges lined with coastal chaparral. Rabbits, deer, and bobcats are often seen in the early morning. In spring, poppies, lupine, and tidy tips pepper the grasslands. Your destination is 2 miles away at Tennessee Cove, where a small, black-sand beach is bracketed by high cliffs. This picturesque pocket beach is where the steamship Tennessee wrecked in dense fog on its way to San Francisco in 1853. The ship was carrying cargo, mail, and 600 passengers. Miraculously, all lives were saved, although the rough surf soon tore the ship to pieces.
Although the beach is the trail’s prime attraction, a bird-filled blue lagoon along the way is a close runner-up. The trail forks before the lagoon; bikers must stay on the wide road to the right, but hikers take the single-track to the left, which leads along the water’s edge. Bird-watching is usually productive. The trails rejoin 0.5 mile later as they near Tennessee Beach.
Dark cliffs and black sand line Tennessee Beach.
At the beach, rolling waves crash on dark sands, pelicans soar overhead, and an offshore rock is battered by continual breakers. Although Tennessee Beach is a great spot for surf-watching, don’t think about swimming here, even on the rare days when the air and sun are warm enough to tempt you. The surf is extremely treacherous. If you tire of reposing on the beach and wish to see the world from a pelican’s perspective, a short trail leads up the northwestern bluff nearly 200 feet to an overlook at an old military bunker.
Both hikers and mountain bikers favor a 5.3-mile loop that starts at Tennessee Valley Trailhead. Follow the Tennessee Valley Trail to 0.5 mile before the beach (or go check out the surf while you’re here) and then make a short but strenuous climb up Coastal Trail. At the summit, catch your breath and enjoy the views and then turn right and climb more gently, eventually joining Coyote Ridge Road. A final right turn and a downhill stint on Miwok Trail bring you back to Tennessee Valley Trailhead. Many cross-country runners power out this hilly loop on Saturday mornings.
If you’d rather stay close to the coast, you can combine this stroll with a more strenuous up-and-down hike on Coastal Trail, either heading south to Rodeo Beach or north to Muir Beach (see Muir Beach/Coastal Trail listing in this chapter).
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 4 miles. Take the Mill Valley/Stinson Beach/Highway 1 exit and continue straight for 0.6 mile to Tennessee Valley Road on the left. Turn left and drive 2 miles to the trailhead.
GPS Coordinates: N 37°86052’ W 122°53591’
Golden Gate National Recreation Area, Marin Headlands
Best: Bird-Watching
Distance: 1.75 miles round-trip
Duration: 1 hour
Elevation Change: Negligible
Effort: Easy
Users: Hikers, leashed dogs
Season: Year-round
Passes/Fees: None
Maps: A map is available at the Marin Headlands Visitor Center or at www.nps.gov/goga.
Contact: Marin Headlands Visitor Center, Fort Barry, Bldg. 948, Sausalito, 415/331-1540, 9:30am-4:30pm daily
Pack the bird-watching binoculars for this walk alongside Rodeo Lagoon from the Marin Headlands Visitor Center to the beach.
You have to look long and hard to find a hiking trail in the Marin Headlands that is nearly level—or you can head directly for the Lagoon Trail at Rodeo Lagoon and spare yourself a lot of searching. The trail begins conveniently at the Marin Headlands Visitor Center, where you can get a few natural and cultural history lessons before heading out on the scenic, easy path.
From the northwestern edge of the parking lot, start walking directly toward the ocean and Rodeo Beach. A trail veers off to the right, but continue straight ahead, marching toward the sea. Hiking on a wide gravel path, you can hear the rhythm of the ocean waves and watch the birds in Rodeo Lagoon. This natural lagoon is separated from the ocean by a narrow strip of beach. Winter storm waves occasionally wash over the beach, resulting in a mixed freshwater and saltwater environment that makes Rodeo Lagoon a happy home for brown pelicans, snowy egrets, diving wood ducks, and other waterbirds. Red-winged blackbirds and other songbirds like it, too.
For a brief stretch, the foliage alongside the trail is very dense and high, and you can’t see far in any direction. Walk past a feeder stream where horsetail ferns grow in thick clusters. The trail begins to climb, rising 100 feet above the lagoon and opening up your views. Across the water, you can see the buildings of the Headlands Institute and the Marine Mammal Center (2000 Bunker Rd., Fort Cronkhite, 415/289-7325, www.marinemammalcenter.org, 10am-4pm daily, free), a nonprofit organization that rescues and rehabilitates injured marine animals.
Where the trail drops back down again, nearly at the edge of Rodeo Beach, you are greeted by springtime poppies and deep blue lupine. The National Park Service is working diligently to remove invasive mats of nonnative ice plant from this area and give the native flowers a chance to flourish.
Follow the sandy trail straight out to the beach or climb up on the bluffs on your left for a broad view of rocky sea stacks and the coast to the south. Most prominent is Bird Island, a giant sea stack that is only barely disconnected from the coast. Because of its separation, Bird Island is inaccessible to ground predators, such as foxes, bobcats, raccoons, and people. It serves as a major rest stop for seabirds—as many as 1,200 brown pelicans have been counted on the island at one time. Bird Island is a small paradise for serious bird-watchers.
If you head straight for Rodeo Beach, you’ll find it peopled by a collection of anglers, dog walkers, bird-watchers, and beach lovers. When it’s sunny on Rodeo Beach, it’s often windy. When it’s foggy, it’s generally still and peaceful. Look closely at the tiny, colorful pebbles on the beach. Some are semi-precious stones, such as carnelians, jasper, and agates, but because this beach is in a national park, collecting them is prohibited. Swimming at the beach is not recommended because of riptides, although you see hardy surfers riding the waves. The lagoon is off-limits for swimming.
Lagoon Trail carves an easy, level path to scenic Rodeo Beach.
To finish out your trip, you can loop back by exiting the beach on a long footbridge and then walking along the north side of the lagoon, paralleling the road. I’d recommend a turnaround instead; just reverse your steps and enjoy this path all over again.
The trail to Kirby Cove Campground and Picnic Area begins near Battery Spencer, 0.3 mile from the start of Conzelman Road. The 1-mile trail (a wide road) leads downhill to a beach with a spectacular view of the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco. It’s great to visit for an hour or two, but it’s even better to spend the night at one of several campsites tucked into a grove of trees just above the Pacific. Reserve a site in advance (877/444-6777, www.recreation.gov). The camp is open April 1-November 30.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge on U.S. 101 and take the first exit north of the bridge, Alexander Avenue. Turn left, loop back under the freeway, and then turn right on Conzelman Road. (Coming southbound on U.S. 101, take the last Sausalito exit just before the Golden Gate Bridge.) Drive 1 mile on Conzelman Road, turn right on McCullough Road, and drive 0.9 mile. Turn left on Bunker Road and drive 2 miles. (Follow the signs for the Marin Headlands Visitor Center.) Park at the visitors center and locate the Lagoon Trail marker near the restrooms on the west side of the parking lot.
Public transportation: MUNI Bus no. 76 stops at the Marin Headlands Visitor Center on Sundays and holidays only. For MUNI information, phone 415/701-2311 (or just 311 in San Francisco) or visit www.sfmta.com.
GPS Coordinates: N 37°83065’ W 122°52484’
Golden Gate National Recreation Area, Marin Headlands
Best: Peak Vistas
Distance: 5.5 miles round-trip
Duration: 3 hours
Elevation Change: 1,000 feet
Effort: Moderate
Users: Hikers, cyclists (Coastal Trail and Miwok Trail, but not on Wolf Ridge Trail), leashed dogs
Season: Year-round
Passes/Fees: None
Maps: A map is available at the Marin Headlands Visitor Center or at www.nps.gov/goga.
Contact: Marin Headlands Visitor Center, Fort Barry, Bldg. 948, Sausalito, 415/331-1540, 9:30am-4:30pm daily
A hike high above the Marin Headland’s busiest beach leads to an overlook with an unbeatable coastal view.
At one time, the Coastal Trail at Rodeo Beach was a paved road, but over the years, weather and erosion have taken their toll. The trail has been rebuilt, rerouted, and reworked so many times that today the path is a patchwork: part paved road, part dirt road, part single-track, and part wooden stairs. But its destination remains the same: The Coastal Trail leads from Rodeo Beach to the top of mighty Hill 88 in the Marin Headlands, providing what many consider to be the finest views in the Golden Gate National Recreation Area—a park rife with memorable views.
Even better, once you reach the top, you don’t have to turn around and retrace your steps. A convenient 5.5-mile loop can be made by descending via Wolf Ridge Trail and Miwok Trail and then cruising alongside Rodeo Lagoon back to your car. On a clear day when the fog has vanished from the Golden Gate, this loop trip may be the best possible way to spend an afternoon.
One more incentive, if it’s needed: Spring wildflowers along Wolf Ridge are exemplary. The April-June show features grasslands peppered with colorful shooting stars, California poppies, and fringe cups.
The trip begins at the big parking lot by Rodeo Beach in the Marin Headlands. Start hiking on the gated, paved road that leads uphill along the coastal bluffs. A bonus is that you can bring your dog along on this trail; just be sure to keep him or her leashed. Bikes share sections of the route as well, but there’s plenty of room for everybody.
Take the first left cutoff, signed as Coastal Trail, only 100 yards up the road. This spur leads up a few easy switchbacks to an overlook perched a few hundred feet above the sea. Spectacular? Yes, indeed. Consider it a preview of the vistas to come. A maze of paths leads along the ocean bluffs, but none of them is a through-trail. Return to the pavement again and continue uphill, soon approaching Battery Townsley. One of several dismantled military installations in the Marin Headlands, Battery Townsley was built during World War II to protect the coast against a possible aerial attack. Townsley was the first battery on the Pacific coast to fire a 16-inch projectile.
Explore the battery’s old concrete structures and then climb some more. The clanging bell of an offshore fog signal provides background music for your walk. Leave the pavement near an obvious landslide (the paved road was washed out) and then continue uphill on single-track trail and wooden stairs—up, up, and up. Is this starting to feel like a workout? Yes, but the views inspire you all the way. It’s a total of 2.3 miles and a 1,000-foot elevation gain from Rodeo Beach to the summit.
Finally, you top out at the paved road again. A wide dirt road continues uphill to the west past more abandoned military buildings. It’s tempting to follow it to the high hill right above you, but hold off: Hill 88 is even higher, and not far off. Stay to the right on the pavement, heading east. The grade mellows as you follow the backbone of narrow Wolf Ridge. Note the junction with Wolf Ridge Trail and Coastal Trail to Tennessee Valley on your left; you’ll take Wolf Ridge Trail for the return leg of your loop.
For now, continue straight on the pavement for the final third of a mile to the summit of Hill 88. The junky, rusting bunkers and square, cinder-block structures won’t hold your attention. Instead, it’s the view. An enormous expanse of ocean and bay is visible, plus Mount Diablo to the east, Montara Mountain to the south, Mount Tamalpais to the northwest, Tennessee Valley to the west, and a multitude of landmarks in the city of San Francisco—Twin Peaks, Ocean Beach, the tall buildings of downtown, and so on. Hill 88’s best viewpoint is an old cement gun placement facing south, which makes a perfect overlook platform.
A hike to the top of Hill 88 gives a wide perspective on Rodeo Beach and the mouth of the Golden Gate.
After you’ve seen enough, retrace your steps down the pavement to the junction with Wolf Ridge Trail. Turn right and head steeply downhill for 0.75 mile. You gain views of Mount Tamalpais, Tennessee Valley, and pristine Gerbode Valley. As you admire the green valley floor, consider the fact that in the 1960s, developers planned a community of several thousand homes to be built in Gerbode Valley. Although the gateposts had already been set, dedicated conservationists fought the development plan and won. Chalk up a victory for the hawks, bobcats, and butterflies.
At the next junction, turn right on Miwok Trail. Wolf Ridge Trail is open to hikers only, but you are likely to share wide, smooth Miwok Trail with mountain bikers. After 1.5 miles of downhill walking (with a near guarantee of spotting deer, hawks, and other creatures), you reach the base of Hill 88 and a junction of trails. Follow Miwok Trail for another 0.4 mile to its end at a large building across from Rodeo Lagoon. Cross Bunker Road to the lagoon’s edge and then take the trail alongside it for a little more than 0.5 mile back to Rodeo Beach.
The 6.4-mile Miwok and Bobcat Loop is well loved by a nearly equal mix of hikers and mountain bikers, especially in the springtime when the Marin Headlands put on their annual wildflower show. Start on Miwok Trail from the northeast edge of Rodeo Lagoon (the trail begins on the right side of a cluster of buildings). Follow it steeply uphill for 3.3 miles to a junction with Bobcat Trail, where you turn right. Bobcat Trail loops 2.7 miles back downhill to Miwok Trail; follow Miwok Trail for the last 0.4 mile to your car. You pass the turnoff for Hawk Camp along the way; backpackers with a permit can spend the night here. Reserve one of three sites by phoning 415/331-1540.
While you’re visiting the Marin Headlands, stop in at the Marine Mammal Center (2000 Bunker Rd., Fort Cronkhite, 415/289-7325, www.marinemammalcenter.org, 10am-4pm daily, free), a rehabilitation hospital for seals, sea lions, and other marine mammals that become stranded along the California coast. Docent-led tours of the center’s exhibits and viewing areas allow guests to learn about the center’s conservation work.
If you’d rather explore some of the Headlands’ lovely beaches, park at either of the parking lots on the one-way section of Conzelman Road. Each trail is about 0.5 mile in length and leads to a “secret” hike-in beach.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge on U.S. 101 and take the first exit north of the bridge, Alexander Avenue. Turn left, loop back under the freeway, and then turn right on Conzelman Road. (Coming southbound on U.S. 101, take the last Sausalito exit just before the Golden Gate Bridge.) Drive 1 mile on Conzelman Road, turn right on McCullough Road, and drive 0.9 mile. Turn left on Bunker Road and drive 2.4 miles to the end of the road at Rodeo Beach.
Public transportation: MUNI Bus no. 76 stops at Fort Cronkhite/Rodeo Beach on Sundays and holidays only. For MUNI information, phone 415/701-2311 (or just 311 in San Francisco) or visit www.sfmta.com.
GPS Coordinates: N 37°83246’ W 122°53881’
Golden Gate National Recreation Area, Marin Headlands
Distance: 1 mile round-trip
Duration: 1 hour
Elevation Change: 100 feet
Effort: Easy
Users: Hikers
Season: Weekends year-round
Passes/Fees: None
Maps: A map is available at the Marin Headlands Visitor Center or at www.nps.gov/goga.
Hours: The Point Bonita Lighthouse and trail are open 12:30pm-3:30pm Saturday-Monday.
Contact: Marin Headlands Visitor Center, Fort Barry, Bldg. 948, Sausalito, 415/331-1540, 9:30am-4:30pm daily
An unforgettable walk across a mini-suspension bridge leads to a historic lighthouse perched atop a rock outcrop.
Okay, this isn’t the Bay Area’s longest hike. It’s so short and easy, let’s just call it a walk. But the trail to Point Bonita Lighthouse must be considered one of the Bay Area’s most unforgettable paths, if not for its unique destination and historical interest, then for its heart-stopping scenery.
A 0.5-mile walk takes you from the Point Bonita Trailhead along a thin backbone of land to the Marin Headlands’ southern tip, where the Point Bonita Lighthouse shines its mighty beacon. As you walk this knife-thin ridge, the realization hits you that Point Bonita is really out there—as in just barely attached to the rest of the continent. It’s a place unlike any other in the Bay Area.
Constructed in 1855, Point Bonita was the third lighthouse built on the West Coast, after the Alcatraz and Fort Point Lighthouses. (Marin County’s other famous lighthouse at Point Reyes was built in 1870.) Point Bonita’s original glass lens has been in continuous use for nearly 150 years, shining a light that can be seen for 18 miles out to sea. Prior to the lighthouse’s construction, mariners frequently sailed right by San Francisco Bay without even noticing it, particularly in heavy fog. As settlers and gold seekers poured into the Golden Gate with the gold rush in 1848, a lighthouse was needed to make the port’s entrance more visible.
Your trip begins with a glance at your calendar. Is it Saturday, Sunday, or Monday? Can you get there between 12:30pm and 3:30pm? The Point Bonita Lighthouse and the trail that accesses it are open only during these hours, so you can’t just show up whenever you feel like it. Next, glance at the skies. Although the lighthouse is open to visitors in any weather except extreme high winds, it’s best to save your trip for a clear day when the coast and bay vistas are optimal.
Finally, you ought to borrow your great aunt’s convertible, because the drive to the lighthouse along Conzelman Road is one of the most breathtaking in all of California. If you’ve never driven this remarkable road on the edge of the Marin Headlands, you’re in for a treat. (You can also drive to the lighthouse via Bunker Road in the Marin Headlands, but it’s nowhere near as thrilling.)
Once you’re at the trailhead, the trip is self-explanatory. The trail is wide, paved, and easy, with a slight downhill grade to the lighthouse. If you bring your cell phone with you, you can take advantage of the cell phone audio stops along the path (call a number, and a recorded message interprets the flora, fauna, and history found along the trail). Views of the Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, and the immense blue bay are exceptional to begin with, but just wait until you proceed along Point Bonita’s curving tip of land that juts precipitously into the bay. The panorama just keeps expanding.
In your first few steps, you pass the worn metal rails of an abandoned lifesaving station. The station was established in 1899 to aid shipwrecked boats. Despite the warning beacon of the lighthouse, hundreds of vessels have been lost near the entrance to the Golden Gate. Long before the U.S. Coast Guard came into existence, the daring crews at this lifesaving station had the hazardous job of rescuing lives and property in treacherous seas. The “surfmen” (as they were called) would row out to sea in rowboats to search for shipwreck survivors. Their foreboding motto was “You have to go out, but you don’t have to come in.” Too often, they didn’t.
After walking less than 0.25 mile, you reach the trail’s famous hand-dug tunnel, a 6-foot-high, 50-foot-long hole bored through a pillow basalt formation. (The tunnel is the point where the Park Service closes off the trail when the lighthouse is closed.) Tall people have to duck when passing through; kids usually run back and forth a few times.
On the tunnel’s far side, the trail continues along a thin backbone of volcanic rock and then reaches a series of boardwalks and a mini-suspension bridge. Yes, it’s just like the Golden Gate Bridge, but a lot smaller and white, not orange. The piece of land connecting Point Bonita to the coast is so minimal and has been so badly worn by the ravages of waves and weather that it’s just shy of being disconnected. Point Bonita will eventually become an island, a rocky sea stack just off the coast.
Only two people at a time are permitted on the 40-yard-long suspension bridge; otherwise, it gets a little tippy. If you have to wait a minute to get on, you’re lucky. From the bridge’s entrance, the views of the Golden Gate and the lighthouse are perfectly framed. A lot of photo snapping happens here.
Point Bonita’s lighthouse and suspension footbridge are precariously perched.
Finally you arrive at Point Bonita’s lighthouse. You can explore its lower floor, talk to the volunteers who staff it, and learn all kinds of facts about the hard life of a lighthouse keeper. Then again, you might just stand around on its deck and gaze in wonder at the crashing waves, black-sand coves, and the magnificent Golden Gate.
Near Point Bonita Lighthouse is the Nike Missile Site (12:30pm-3:30pm Thurs.-Sun.), and if you time your trip for a Saturday, you can visit both sites during the limited time window when they’re open. Get a close-up look at this amazing anti-aircraft tool, which was installed in the 1950s to fend off Soviet fighter jets and keep America safe during the Cold War. This is the only completely restored Nike missile site in the entire United States. For more information, contact the Marin Headlands Visitor Center (415/331-1540).
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge on U.S. 101 and take the first exit north of the bridge, Alexander Avenue. Turn left, loop back under the freeway, and then turn right on Conzelman Road. (Coming southbound on U.S. 101, take the last Sausalito exit just before the Golden Gate Bridge.) Follow Conzelman Road all the way to its end (the road becomes one-way) at the Point Bonita Lighthouse parking area. (You can also reach the lighthouse from the Marin Headlands Visitor Center on Bunker Road; follow the brown signs for 1 mile.)
GPS Coordinates: N 37°82217’ W 122°52913’
Angel Island State Park
Distance: 5.5 miles round-trip
Duration: 2.5 hours
Elevation Change: 200 feet
Effort: Easy
Users: Hikers, cyclists (Perimeter Trail only)
Season: Spring, summer, and fall
Passes/Fees: Ferry fees and schedules vary according to your city of departure ($15-$25 per adult, round-trip). All ferry fees include entrance to Angel Island State Park.
Maps: A park map is available at the ferry landing on the island ($2) or at www.angelisland.org.
Contact: Angel Island State Park, P.O. Box 318, Tiburon, 415/435-5390, www.angelisland.org
The most desirable real estate in the Bay Area is yours for the day on this easy trail that circles Angel Island and passes numerous historic sites.
The Perimeter Trail at Angel Island State Park may be the most spectacular easy hike in the entire San Francisco Bay Area. How easy? It’s mostly paved and nearly level, so you can push a baby stroller around the whole thing. How spectacular? The Bay Area has plenty of first-rate trails, but what sets this one apart is that it’s on an island in the middle of the bay. The 360-degree views alone are reason enough to make the journey.
What comes as a surprise to first-time visitors is how fun it is just getting to Angel Island—walking up the ferryboat gangway, finding a spot on the open-air top deck or inside the cozy lower deck, and watching the mainland diminish as the boat pulls away from the harbor. Even the most jaded can hardly keep from smiling as they smell the salt air and feel the cool bay breeze.
Keep in mind that the weather can be fickle at Angel Island, and the fog can roll in on a moment’s notice. Come prepared with an extra jacket, even on sunny days. A pleasant bonus for day hikers is that if you didn’t bother to pack a lunch, you can buy one at the café near the boat dock (closed in winter). The outside deck is inviting, but most likely you will want to choose your own private picnic spot somewhere on the island.
About 20 minutes from Tiburon and 40 minutes from San Francisco or the East Bay, your ferry docks at Ayala Cove. Walk to your right, past the Angel Island Café (415/435-3392) and bike-rental kiosk. (Commercial services vary seasonally; to find out what is currently open for business on the island, visit www.angelisland.com or phone 415/435-3544.) The picnic area at Ayala Cove is usually packed with people, but you quickly leave them behind. Take the well-signed trail to the left of the picnic tables, which switchbacks gently uphill to join the main Perimeter Trail.
Views of passing freighters, Alcatraz, and downtown San Francisco can be seen from Angel Island’s Perimeter Trail.
Perimeter Trail is a wide, paved road, although the pavement deteriorates to gravel and dirt in some places. Because the road loops around the island, you can head either right or left. If you go left, heading clockwise around the island, you face most of the oncoming bicyclists, who usually ride in the opposite direction. (The trail is wide enough to easily handle all its users, but it helps when hikers see bikers coming.)
You have only one major hill to face on the southeast side of the island. The views more than compensate for your energy expenditure. Heading clockwise, you begin with a panorama of Tiburon and its Mediterranean-looking waters, then the Richmond Bridge and the northern tip of San Pablo Bay. Far beyond are the hills of Napa and Sonoma Counties. The panorama changes every few steps. You have to keep analyzing and reanalyzing what you’re seeing, because your perspective is so different from the center of San Francisco Bay than it is from its edges.
One of the best viewpoints is on the southeast side of the loop, at an open stretch where you glimpse the Bay Bridge and Golden Gate Bridge simultaneously, plus everything in between and on either side, including Alcatraz, which lies directly ahead. You’re viewing the whole line of cities from Berkeley to San Francisco to Sausalito, a 180-degree scene.
If you want to see more of Angel Island’s panoramic views, you can hike an inner-loop trail high above the Perimeter Trail. A dirt fire road circles the island’s interior; connect to it via a trail by the fire station on the north side of the island or by the single-track North Ridge Trail. Because the Upper Fire Road is higher in elevation, it doles out even more expansive views than Perimeter Trail. Upper Fire Road is a 4-mile loop.
The Perimeter Trail naturally lends itself to meandering side trips. Angel Island has a long and varied history as a military outpost, a Russian sea otter hunters’ site, and an immigrant detention center. The visitors center (8am-sunset daily), near the picnic area at Ayala Cove, has brochures and exhibits on the island’s history. One recommended side trip is a visit to Camp Reynolds (also called West Garrison) on the island’s southwest side. Established in 1863, Camp Reynolds was built to protect the Bay Area from Confederate sympathizers during the American Civil War. A dozen years later, it was used as a staging area for troops fighting various “wars” against Native Americans in the West. The camp remained in use by the military through World War II. You can walk its parade grounds and visit some of its remaining buildings, including a chapel, mule barn, hospital, and barracks.
Another important site is the U.S. Immigration Station (415/435-5537, 11am-3pm daily, $5) at China Cove, where Asian immigrants were detained for long, arduous periods in the years following World War I. This so-called Ellis Island of the West qualifies as the saddest chapter in Angel Island’s history. During World War II, German, Italian, and Japanese prisoners of war were confined here.
A favorite side trip on Angel Island is the 0.5-mile walk to Perles Beach, a windy strip of sand with an amazing vista facing south toward Alcatraz and San Francisco. The turnoff for its dirt access road is at an overlook point above Battery Ledyard, where everyone stops on the roadside benches to admire the Golden Gate Bridge view. Another popular beach is Quarry Beach on the island’s east side, which is larger, more protected from the wind, and better for sunbathing than Perles Beach.
Ferry service to Angel Island is available from Tiburon, San Francisco, and Oakland/Alameda. For Tiburon departures, contact Tiburon Ferry, 415/435-2131, www.angelislandferry.com. For San Francisco departures, contact Blue and Gold Fleet, 415/705-8200, www.blueandgoldfleet.com.
GPS Coordinates: N 37°86846’ W 122°43482’
Angel Island State Park
Best: Peak Vistas, Short Backpacking Trips
Distance: 4.5 miles round-trip
Duration: 2 hours
Elevation Change: 780 feet
Effort: Easy/moderate
Users: Hikers
Season: Spring, summer, and fall
Passes/Fees: Ferry fees and schedules vary according to your city of departure ($15-$25 per adult, round-trip). All ferry fees include entrance to Angel Island State Park.
Maps: A park map is available at the ferry landing on the island ($2) or at www.angelisland.org.
Contact: Angel Island State Park, P.O. Box 318, Tiburon, 415/435-5390, www.angelisland.org
Visit the summit of Mount Livermore, the highest point on Angel Island, on this view-filled half-day hike.
You want to visit Angel Island but can’t bear to hike on pavement? You don’t like sharing the trail with bikers and want a hikers-only path? No problem. There are two completely different ways to hike Angel Island: One path is on the wide, paved Perimeter Trail, which circumnavigates the island (see Perimeter Trail listing in this chapter). The other path is the dirt and mostly single-track North Ridge and Sunset Trail Loop, which travels to the island’s highest point, the summit of Mount Livermore.
The hardest part of this trip is in the first 10 minutes after you get off the boat. While everyone else disembarks and heads to the right toward Ayala Cove and the island’s concession stands (there’s a café, bike and Segway rentals, tram tours, and more), you need to head the other way. North Ridge Trail starts on the north side of the ferry dock, just to the left of the restrooms. It begins with a quick, steep climb of more than 100 steps, leading past a couple of well-placed picnic tables (with a great view) and then up to the paved Perimeter Road.
Cross the road, pant a few times, and then pick up North Ridge Trail on its far side. Now the path is more like a trail and less like a staircase. The single-track is well graded and alternates through sunny chaparral-covered slopes and a shady, fern-filled canopy of live oaks. At just over 1 mile up the trail, the path traverses the northern flank of Mount Livermore, passing a surprising grove of nonnative Monterey pines. Views widen as you climb, and Tiburon and Belvedere begin to fade into the distance.
Where North Ridge Trail junctions with Sunset Trail and the trail to the summit, bear right and follow the summit trail uphill. Climbing 0.25 mile brings you to the hill’s previously flat, but now pointed, 788-foot summit. How did Mount Livermore get its pointed peak? In 2002, California State Parks went to great effort and expense to replace the top 16 feet of the mountain, which had been shaved off to make room for a Nike missile base in the 1950s. They also got rid of the old, ugly road that led to the summit and put in this hiking trail with its much kinder grade. A few picnic tables are found at and just below the summit, as are interpretive signs that point out the landmarks of the bay. Which landmarks? These and more: Berkeley, Mount Diablo, San Leandro, Alameda, Mission Peak (38 miles away), Mount Hamilton (56 miles away), Santa Clara, Mountain View, San Francisco’s Telegraph Hill, Alcatraz Island, Montara Mountain, Twin Peaks, the Golden Gate Bridge, Mount Tamalpais, Tiburon, Belvedere, San Quentin Prison, and Mount St. Helena in Napa (57 miles away).
The summit of Mount Livermore rewards hikers with views of Tiburon, Belvedere, and San Pablo Bay.
With a view like that, it’s not surprising that Mount Livermore’s few picnic tables are in high demand on sunny weekend days. After you’ve lunched or just enjoyed the view, head back down the summit trail. Pick up Sunset Trail at the junction with North Ridge Trail and enjoy another 0.5 mile of open views as you descend through the grasslands. The trail heads into a forest of oaks and bays, switchbacking gently downhill to another wide viewpoint and a crossing of Perimeter Road. You can follow the paved road back downhill to Ayala Cove or take the forested single-track just to the right of it.
One of the best ways to explore Angel Island is by spending the night at one of its backpacking camps. Advance reservations are required; phone 800/444-7275 or visit www.reservecalifornia.com. Three popular sites are located at the Ridge camps on the west side of the island, where the views of San Francisco and the Golden Gate Bridge are divine, but the wind can howl. If you just want to make sure you sleep in a wind-protected spot, the East Bay campsites on the island’s east side are the best choice. Other good options are the three east-side Sunrise camps, which offer great views of Treasure Island and the East Bay. However, because these sites are very close together, they are best suited for groups. All three camping areas require a hike of only 1-2 miles each way. Tables, food lockers, running water, pit toilets, and a barbecue are located at each site. No wood fires are allowed; you must bring charcoal or a backpacking stove.
Ferry service to Angel Island is available from Tiburon, San Francisco, and Oakland/Alameda. For Tiburon departures, contact Tiburon Ferry, 415/435-2131, www.angelislandferry.com. For San Francisco departures, contact Blue and Gold Fleet, 415/705-8200, www.blueandgoldfleet.com.
GPS Coordinates: N 37°86846’ W 122°43482’
Ring Mountain Open Space Preserve, Corte Madera
Best: Wildflower Displays
Distance: 3 miles round-trip
Duration: 1.5 hours
Elevation Change: 600 feet
Effort: Easy/moderate
Users: Hikers, leashed dogs
Season: Spring
Passes/Fees: None
Maps: Detailed maps of the area are available at www.marinopenspace.org or can be purchased from Tom Harrison Maps, 415/456-7940, www.tomharrisonmaps.com (ask for the Southern Marin map).
Contact: Marin County Open Space District, 3501 Civic Center Dr., Ste. 260, San Rafael, 415/499-6387, www.marinopenspace.org
A special preserve tucked amid burgeoning development offers surprising tranquility, big bay views, and a chance to see rare species of wildflowers.
The Nature Conservancy’s Ring Mountain Preserve is located smack in the middle of the Corte Madera suburbs, not far from Paradise Drive’s paradise of shopping malls. But although the surrounding development may seem discouraging, Ring Mountain Preserve is a heavenly slice of open space. It features a wealth of grassland wildflowers, fascinating rock outcrops, and outstanding views.
The Nature Conservancy acquired this hillside land tucked between neighborhood developments to protect the Tiburon mariposa lily, which grows nowhere else in the world. Six other species of Ring Mountain wildflowers grow in few other areas, landing them spots on the rare plant list. These special floras share Ring Mountain with many more common wildflowers and grasses as well as bay trees, live oaks, deer, gray fox, rabbits, quail, and songbirds. To see the preserve at its best, you must visit in spring when the grasslands are in bloom, preferably on a clear day.
Phyllis Ellman Trail, combined with a path named simply Loop Trail, circles the preserve. There are a lot of signposts at trail junctions, but very few bear trail names. (Just remember to head uphill for the outbound leg and downhill on the way back.) The trail forks within a few yards of the trailhead; take the left side of the loop first, saving the right side for your return. Things may not look all that promising at first, but just be patient. Ignore the neighboring houses and the busy road behind you, start climbing, and take your time—there’s nowhere to go but up.
As you ascend, be sure to turn around every few minutes to check out the view at your back. You gain elevation quickly, and with every few footsteps your vista expands to include more of the North and East Bays. Ring Mountain is situated directly across the bay from two easy-to-identify landmarks: the Larkspur Ferry Terminal and San Quentin Prison. As you scan the horizon, you see the East and West Brother Islands near Richmond, the East and West Marin Islands near San Rafael, Point San Pedro, the Richmond Bridge, and parts of the East Bay. The islands are perhaps the most intriguing sight. This is the only park in Marin where you can simultaneously see the Marin Islands, which are state owned and unoccupied, and the East and West Brother Islands. East Brother is home to the East Brother Light Station (510/233-2385, www.ebls.org), a lighthouse and tiny inn.
There’s also plenty to see right by your feet. Large and small rock outcrops jut out from the hillside, adding contrast to the grasslands. Flower lovers should watch for sky lupine with clusters of dark blue flowers, blue-eyed grass, western larkspur, Douglas iris, light blue flax, pink onions, tarweed, yarrow, owl’s clover, and the yellow spikes of false lupine. California poppies are the most prevalent bloomers. If you want to see the rare Tiburon mariposa lily, you must show up in late May, after many of the other wildflowers have finished their bloom. Even then, you must look carefully for this precious plant: Its mottled flowers are camouflaged against the surrounding grasses.
You are in open sunshine for most of this walk, but as you climb the ridge, the trail passes by small, inviting groves of live oaks. As the climb tops out, the trail meets up with a wide fire road on Taylor Ridge. You see a large water tank and a handful of immense houses to your left, and a prominent serpentine outcrop straight ahead. This is known as Turtle Rock, although from here it’s difficult to see why—the top of the rock resembles a turtle, but only when seen from one angle. Climb on top of Turtle Rock for a fabulous view to the south of San Francisco, Angel Island, Alcatraz, Tiburon, and Sausalito. The whole of the East and North Bays remains visible in the opposite direction. You can see both San Francisco Bay and San Pablo Bay at the same time.
A hiker admires the view from atop Turtle Rock at Ring Mountain Open Space Preserve.
After enjoying the view from the big rock overlook, head west (right) on the fire road for a short distance to a four-way junction of trails. From the junction, leave the fire road and walk west and downhill for about 40 yards to examine Petroglyph Rock (there’s a post-and-rail fence and an interpretive signboard on the rock’s west side). This large outcrop was carved with inch-deep, horseshoe-shaped markings by Native Americans approximately 3,000 years ago. (Sadly, the rock has also been carved by vandals in more recent years.) Additional carvings are found on at least 30 other outcrops in the preserve. A midden on the lower part of the mountain suggests that Miwok Indians were living on Ring Mountain as early as 370 BC.
From Petroglyph Rock, follow Phyllis Ellman Trail back downhill for the return leg of your loop. The bay vistas continue to inspire all the way downhill.
For a view-filled trip without a lot of effort, continue past the Phyllis Ellman Trailhead for just under a mile, turn right on Taylor Road, and drive to its end. This is the trailhead for Taylor Ridge Fire Road, which connects to Phyllis Ellman Trail along the ridgetop. Start your hike here and follow the ridgeline out as far as you please before turning back.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 7 miles to Corte Madera. Take the Paradise Drive exit and head east for 1.6 miles (through a residential neighborhood). The preserve trailhead is on the right. Park in the gravel pullouts on the side of the road.
GPS Coordinates: N 37°92100’ W 122°49445’
China Camp State Park, San Rafael
Distance: 7 miles round-trip
Duration: 3 hours
Elevation Change: 100 feet
Effort: Easy/moderate
Users: Hikers, cyclists
Season: Year-round
Passes/Fees: $5 day-use per vehicle
Maps: A trail map is available at the ranger station ($1) or at www.parks.ca.gov.
Contact: China Camp State Park, 101 Peacock Gap Trail, San Rafael, 415/456-0766, www.parks.ca.gov
This nearly level trail along the edge of San Pablo Bay provides the perfect outing for birders, bay-watchers, and history enthusiasts.
Most people know China Camp State Park as a historic park that showcases the remains of a Chinese shrimp fishing village from the 19th century—a place that’s popular for school field trips. But China Camp also boasts a scenic location on San Pablo Bay, which allows blue-water vistas at every turn of the park’s Shoreline Trail. With more than 1,500 shoreline acres, plus a dense forest of oaks, bays, and madrones, the park is an island of natural beauty just outside the busy city of San Rafael.
China Camp is also a rare animal in the California State Park system. It’s one of the few state parks that allows mountain bike riders on its single-track trails. Most bikers and hikers mind their manners and get along fine, but be forewarned that if you don’t like sharing the trail with bikes, avoid visiting on weekends when the park sees its heaviest use.
An out-and-back trip on the park’s Shoreline Trail entails walking seven scenic and nearly level miles. Bird-watchers won’t want to be caught without binoculars; the variety of species you’ll see is impressive.
Begin on Shoreline Trail from the Back Ranch Meadows Campground parking lot. You’ll walk past a cattail-filled marsh and have immediate views of the tranquil blue waters of San Pablo Bay. Wide-open grasslands are punctuated by a few spreading valley oaks.
In only 0.25 mile, cross San Pedro Road and take Turtle Back Nature Trail. When bay waters were higher, Turtle Back was an island, but now it’s a shoreline hill surrounded by saltwater marsh. In late autumn, the marsh’s pickleweed turns a brilliant red color, highlighting wide views of San Pablo Bay. Ancient duck blinds dot the water’s edge. From Turtle Back, you can see Jake’s Island to the north, another shoreline hill that was once an island. Two other such hills exist to the east, Bullet Hill and Chicken Coop Hill.
Return to the main Shoreline Trail and continue hiking east. You parallel North San Pedro Road until the path heads inland and then curve around to an open meadow and the park’s group picnic area, Miwok Meadows. Follow its wide dirt road back toward the bay. Pick up single-track Shoreline Trail again, continuing eastward. More open bay views are followed by a stint in a leafy oak and bay forest. North San Pedro Road drops out of sight and earshot as the trail leads through the woodland canopy.
Three miles out, you switchback downhill to China Camp State Park’s ranger station (a mobile home), then cross the service road to pick up the trail on the opposite side. In slightly more than 0.5 mile, cross North San Pedro Road carefully and then head down to China Camp Historic Area, the site of a 19th-century Chinese fishing village. China Camp was one of more than 30 such villages that sprang up on the shores of San Francisco and San Pablo Bays in the 1870s. The Chinese villagers fished for plentiful grass shrimp in spring, summer, and fall. In winter, they mended their nets and worked on their boats. Some of the shrimp were sold at local markets, but most were exported to China. Eventually laws were passed that forbid the Chinese method of shrimp fishing with bag nets. In 1905, the export of dried shrimp was also banned, and this village, along with others like it, was soon abandoned.
A pier and four buildings, filled with furniture and tools from the day-to-day life of the shrimp camp, are all that remain of the village, but they are fascinating to explore. A sandy beach to the west of China Camp is a first-rate bird-watching spot. Great egrets and snowy egrets fish in the marsh areas and offshore from Rat Rock Island. The beach is also popular with waders and swimmers in summer; the bay water is calm and relatively warm.
A more strenuous tour of the park is an 11-mile loop on Shoreline Trail, Oak Ridge Trail, and Bay View Trail. This longer hike leads you into the backcountry of the park, far from the cars traveling North San Pedro Road. Follow the first half of the trip outlined earlier to China Camp Historic Area. Then retrace your steps to the junction uphill of the ranger station and bear left on Peacock Gap Trail. Climb uphill and then turn right on Oak Ridge Trail. Connect to Ridge Fire Trail and then Bay View Trail. From these trails’ higher elevations, your bay views are far more expansive. Deciduous oaks and even some redwoods offer shade at points along the route. A right turn on Back Ranch Fire Road and a steep descent return you to within a few yards of your car.
Rat Rock stands guard along the shoreline of China Camp.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 11 miles to San Rafael. Take the North San Pedro Road exit and drive east for 3.5 miles. Turn right at the sign for Back Ranch Meadows Campground and park in the campground parking lot. Shoreline Trail is located on the bay side of the lot, signed as No Dogs.
GPS Coordinates: N 38°00648’ W 122°49472’
Olompali State Historic Park, Novato
Distance: 7.8 miles round-trip
Duration: 4 hours
Elevation Change: 1,500 feet
Effort: Moderate
Users: Hikers
Season: Spring, fall, and winter
Passes/Fees: $8 day-use per vehicle
Maps: A park map/brochure is available as a free download at www.parks.ca.gov. A detailed map of the area is available from Pease Press, 415/387-1437, www.peasepress.com (ask for the Trails of Northeast Marin County map).
Hours: The park is open 9am-5pm Wednesday-Sunday. If you want to hike on Monday or Tuesday, you have to use the “back” trailhead for Mount Burdell, which is located on Marin County Open Space Preserve off San Andreas Drive in Novato (see Hike Nearby).
Contact: Olompali State Historic Park, P.O. Box 1016, Novato, 415/892-3383, www.parks.ca.gov
One of Marin County’s least visited parks offers a great opportunity to admire giant oaks and spring wildflowers on the way to the summit of the county’s fifth-highest peak.
Olompali is the state park with the funny name that thousands of commuters on U.S. 101 pass by each day. Located a few miles north of Novato and a few miles south of Petaluma, the park’s entrance is visible from the freeway. You might expect this would mean that the place is packed with visitors year-round, but the opposite is true: Olompali is one of the least visited state parks in the San Francisco Bay Area. Maybe that’s because nobody can pronounce its name. (It’s oh-LOMP-o-lee, with the accent on the second syllable.)
Olompali has a colorful history. This land was a major Miwok trade center for hundreds of years. The Coast Miwok inhabited at least one site within the present-day park from about AD 500. It was perhaps one of the largest Native American sites in what is now Marin County. The name Olompali comes from the Miwok language and means something like “southern village” or “southern people.”
In more recent history, the land was owned by the Burdell family, a prominent San Francisco dentist and his wife. In the late 1800s, they built a 26-room mansion with formal gardens here. In the 20th century, the land was rented to various tenants, including the Grateful Dead in 1966. (One of their album covers shows the rolling hills of Olompali.) In the 1970s, a series of archaeological digs in the parkland uncovered an Elizabethan silver sixpence dated 1567, possibly related to Sir Francis Drake’s landing in Marin County.
The park’s best offering is a gently switchbacked trail that climbs 1,500 feet to the summit of Mount Burdell, a grassy, rounded peak with expansive views of northern Marin County and southern Sonoma and Napa Counties. At 1,558 feet, it’s the fifth-highest peak in Marin County.
One caveat: Olompali’s inland hills can bake in the summer and early fall. Even though the Mount Burdell Trail is mostly shaded, the hike can be quite hot and unpleasant in the summer months. The best seasons are spring, when the wildflowers bloom, and autumn, when the oaks’ leaves turn gold. Clear winter days are also recommended.
Take the trail leading uphill from the parking lot (not the path that heads toward the ranch buildings). Bear left at an obvious fork; a large bridge over Olompali Creek is on the right. You soon leave the sunny grasslands for the wooded eastern slopes of Mount Burdell. Oak savanna gives way to forests of bay laurels, madrones, and deciduous oaks. The only negative is the constant rumble of cars on the highway; at least you can relish the fact that you’re not seated in one of them.
At 1.6 miles, the path reaches a major trail junction; turn left on the signed trail for Burdell Mountain Summit. (A closed trail at this junction is the old summit trail; it makes a beeline straight uphill and is subject to terrible erosion in winter rains.)
A hiker takes in the view of the Petaluma River from Mount Burdell’s summit.
As you continue the ascent, you gain peekaboo views of the Petaluma River to the east and its surrounding marshlands. Climb a few more switchbacks to see where the river empties into San Pablo Bay. Small planes take off and land at Gnoss Field airport, just across U.S. 101, and a steady parade of cars streams north and south on the freeway.
Where the switchbacks lead into the mountain’s many small canyons, all sights and sounds of civilization disappear. The quiet of the leafy woodland is punctured only by the movements of the black-tailed deer that inhabit it. (On one trip, I counted 37 deer, all in separate groups of 2 and 3.)
The trail switchbacks all the way up to a metal gate marking the park’s boundary. Here, the parkland adjoins Burdell Mountain Open Space Preserve. Pass through the gate and then follow the trail to the paved Burdell Mountain Ridge Fire Road. Views open up to the southwest of the tree-lined streets of Novato and the shimmering blue water of Stafford Lake. Far off to the south, you can see the tips of the tallest buildings in downtown San Francisco. If you follow the paved road all the way to the mountain’s AT&T transmitter towers, you can walk around them and look westward to Nicasio and Point Reyes. But the best view comes from the north side of the summit ridge. At a low stone wall along the 1,500-foot ridgeline, you can see east toward the Petaluma River and San Pablo Bay and north toward Napa and Sonoma. This wall was built by Chinese laborers in the 1870s to mark the border between two large ranchos.
On your return trip, retrace your steps back down to the main junction and then follow the opposite side of the park’s short loop. Descend through a canopy of oaks and bays, pass a meandering creek, and then reach a replica of a Miwok village that was built by park volunteers and local Native Americans. Finally, the trail curves down through the Burdell ranch buildings and finishes at the parking lot.
If you want to bring your dog to Mount Burdell, follow this canine-friendly route (dogs are not allowed in the state park). Start your trip from the Mount Burdell Open Space Preserve trailhead at the end of San Andreas Drive in Novato (off San Marin Drive). A series of wide fire roads (San Andreas, Middle Burdell, and Cobblestone) escorts you to the top in 2.8 miles. After late winter and early spring rains, don’t miss a visit to Hidden Lake, a seasonal pond at the junction of Middle Burdell and Cobblestone Fire Roads. The resident tree frogs sing a deafening chorus. The lake is also home to an assortment of rare plants.
A visit to the state park’s historic ranch buildings is a worthwhile side trip. On the site are two 19th-century barns, a blacksmith shop, and a saltbox house. Look for Kitchen Rock southeast of the older barn; the boulder contains Native American grinding holes of varying sizes, in which the Miwok would grind acorn meat into flour.
From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and drive north on U.S. 101 for 28 miles to Novato. Continue another 2.5 miles north of Novato on U.S. 101 and exit at Atherton/Redwood Boulevard. Follow posted signs to the park.
GPS Coordinates: N 38°15131’ W 122°57136’
