Frommer’s Athens and the Greek Islands, 2nd Edition

As everyone knows, this archipelago of 24 islands came to be when a god threw stones randomly in the sea. This is a legend, of course, but it’s a poetical way to describe these widely scattered little outcroppings across the Aegean Sea, off the northeast coast of the mainland. While most of the islets are uninhabited, four islands have captured attention since ancient times: Skiathos, Skopelos, Alonissos, and Skyros.

Skiathos has the bounty of beaches—among them Lalaria, where sea cliffs amplify a soft incessant rumble of white marble stones rolling in the surf, and Koukounaries, where a perfect crescent is backed by sandy-floored pine groves. Skopelos has an appealing capital, Skopelos Town, and so many churches that it’s said that islanders count churches, not sheep, to induce sleep. Forested Alonissos, surrounded by pristine waters, is not only a pleasant place to get away from it all but also the gateway to the alluring National Marine Park of Alonissos Northern Sporades. On Skyros, hilltop Hora, clinging to a rock high above the coastal plain, is so spectacular that it alone makes the effort to reach this remote island worthwhile. Indeed, all of this rugged island seems out of this world, adrift from the other Sporades and the rest of Greece.

Philip of Macedonia, Persian king Xerxes, and many occupiers over the centuries probably made less of an impact on this small island than sun-seeking travelers have made in the past 30 years or so. Yet Skiathos doesn’t entirely lose its identity in the presence of 50,000 visitors a year. Outside Skiathos Town and the resort- and sand-lined south coast, the island retains much of its rugged, pine-clad beauty.

ARRIVING The fastest and easiest way to reach Skiathos is on a short flight from Athens to Alexandros Papadiamantis Airport, 3km (2 miles) outside Skiathos Town. Olympic Air (www.olympicair.com) and Aegean Airlines (en.aegeanair.com) operate service five times daily from June to September, less frequently the rest of the year. The airport also handles many flights to and from European cities in summer including service from London on British Airways (www.britishairways.com). Expect to pay about 10€ for a taxi to hotels along the south coast. Skiathos Airport is an attraction in itself and a favorite of plane spotters: The short runway is wedged onto a narrow isthmus, and approaching planes fly in at what seems to be only a few feet or so above a shoreline road; dozens of spectators usually gather to watch the landings.

By boat, the options are ferry (3 hr.) or hydrofoil (1 hr.) from the mainland ports of Volos or Agios Konstantinos (respectively 4 hr. and 3 hr. from Athens by bus). In season, Skiathos is also served by hydrofoil (1 hr.) or ferryboat service (4 hr.) from Kymi, on the island of Evvia, which is closer to Athens (2 hr. by bus). Hydrofoils and ferries also link Skiathos to neighboring Skopelos (30–45 min.) and Alonissos (60–75 min.); high-season-only hydrofoils make the crossing to and from Skyros (21⁄3 hr.). For tickets and information, contact Aegean Flying Dolphins (www.aegeanflyingdolphins.gr), Anes (www.anes.gr), and Blue Star Ferries (www.bluestarferries.com); for schedules, go to www.gtp.gr or www.ferryhopper.com.

VISITOR INFORMATION The town maintains an information booth at the western corner of the harbor; in summer, it’s open daily from about 9am to 8pm. Private travel agencies abound, and can help with boat tickets, hotel bookings, and other needs.

GETTING AROUND Skiathos has excellent public bus service along the south coast of the island, running from the bus station on the harbor to Koukounaries (5€), with 25 well-marked stops at the beaches in between. A conductor will ask for your destination and assess the fare. Buses run at least six times daily April through November, with increasing frequency as the season sets in (hourly 9am to 9pm in May and October; every half-hour 8:30am to 10pm in June and September; July through August every 20 minutes 8:30am to 2:30pm and 3:30pm to midnight). It’s a handy and efficient system, with a dash of island life thrown in—on some trips you might find yourself sitting next to a dog, more often than not belonging to the driver.

Dozens of reliable car and moped agencies are located on and just off the paralia (shore road). In high season, expect to pay as much as 60€ per day for a small car with manual transmission; weekly and off-season rates are significantly cheaper. Mopeds start at about 35€ per day. Parking around Skiathos Town is tight, but be sure to find a space in a legal zone—police ticket readily and eagerly.

The north coast beaches, adjacent islands, and historic Kastro are most easily reached by caique; these smaller vessels, which post their beach and island tour schedules on signs, sail frequently from the fishing harbor west of the Bourtzi fortress. An around-the-island tour that includes stops at Lalaria Beach and the Kastro will cost about 50€.

Most hotels on the island require a minimum stay in July and August, sometimes for as long as a week.

Atrium Hotel

Beautiful and comfortable accommodations that range from doubles to lavish maisonettes tumble down a pine-clad hillside above Agia Paraskevi, one of the island’s nicest beaches, commanding endless sea views from terraces and outdoor living spaces. Wood and warm stone are accented with antiques and island-style furnishings, all carefully chosen by the architect-family that built and still runs the hotel. Atrium Villas, three beautifully designed glass-and-stone houses, are tucked into pine forests on the rugged north coast, each with four bedrooms, airy indoor/outdoor living spaces, and private pool.

Agia Paraskevi. www.atriumhotel.gr.

24270/49345. 75 units & 3 villas. 120€–230€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; pool; private pools in some units; nearby beach; Wi-Fi (free). Closed Oct–mid-May.

Bourtzi

Right in the center of Skiathos Town, these minimalist, contemporary guest rooms all open to private balconies facing a courtyard or the streets of the old quarter. Sleek furnishings sit atop cool marble floors beneath color-rich murals. The pool will tide you over between trips to the beach, and the inviting indoor/outdoor cocktail lounge may provide all the nightlife you need.

8 Moraitou, Skiathos Town. www.hotelbourtzi.gr.

24270/21304. 38 units. 110€–210€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Amenities: Bar/lounge; pool; Wi-Fi (free). Closed Oct–Apr.

Skiathos Princess

This swanky resort complex climbing a hill above Agia Paraskevi beach seems quite grand at first sight but is actually casual and relaxing; the friendly service is outstanding. A long stretch of sand is the main attraction, with acres of green lawns, cushion-filled terraces, and two swimming pools also geared to easy leisure. Pleasantly elegant, though somewhat generic, rooms open to terraces and, best, ground-floor patios that lead onto the well landscaped grounds. Unlike many self-contained resorts of the kind, this one is easily accessible to the rest of the island, including Skiathos Town, by bus.

Coast Rd., 8km (5 mi) S of Skitathos Town. santikoscollection.com.

24270/49731. 155 units. 110€–200€ double. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 3 bars; 2 pools; beach; gym; spa; Wi-Fi (free). Closed mid-Oct–Apr.

Architectonika Design Hotel

For convenience and a surplus of good-value comfort, it’s hard to beat this in-town spot that makes “basic” into a pleasing design statement of concrete floors and spartan low-slung furnishings. The longer the climb up a tight staircase, the better the rewards: Top-floor rooms have views over tile rooftops to the sea, and above them is a breezy roof deck. All rooms open to nice terraces. Just outside, intriguing alleys lead to the nearby waterfront or into the quieter sections of the mazelike old town.

Mitropolitou Ananiou 20, Skiathos Town. hotelarchitectonika.gr.

24270/23633. 9 units. 25€–90€ double. Amenities: Roof terrace/bar; Wi-Fi (free).

The Borzoi

GREEK/MEDITERRANENAN Some patrons might remember this intimate spot at the end of an alley from the 1970s, when it was the island hotspot. The bar still serves excellent house cocktails, and meals are served in a huge interior garden that’s whitewashed to a soothing sheen and littered with colorful flowers and bright cushions. A Mediterranean menu includes seafood risottos, fresh fish, and heaping salads, served with down-to-earth hospitality.

Polytexneiou 27, Skiathos Town. theborzoi-skiathos.com.

694/424-7349. Entrees 12€–20€. Daily 6pm–midnight. Closed mid-Oct–Apr.

Ergon

GREEK/DELI In an attractive, brightly lit space that spills onto a terrace, this outlet of an international Greece-based chain is part grocery shop, part cafe, and part ouzeri. The emphasis is on organic, small-production foods from throughout Greece, with vegetables from the island, tuna from Alonissos, and fava beans from the mainland showing up in small plates and main courses. Specials allow you to mix and match from the a la carte menu—maybe gruyere from Naxos, served in fruit syrup, or grilled chicken breast on a bed of Cretan pilaf. Excellent breakfasts are served as well.

Papadiamandis, Skiathos Town. www.ergonfoods.com.

24270/21441. Starters from 6€, entrees 12€–14€. Daily 9am–midnight.

Taverna Alexandros

GREEK This Skiathos institution serves traditional taverna fare on a tree-shaded terrace and in a stone-walled room just off the harbor. Best bets are the standards—lamb chops and other meats grilled over an open fire, and huge fresh salads of beets and other island-grown vegetables, varying according to the freshest market offerings. Live bouzouki music adds a festive note to dinners on most nights. In high season you’ll have to wait for a table (no reservations), and payment is in cash only.

Kapodistríou, behind the old port, Skiathos Town.

24270/22431. Entrees 8€–12€. Noon–3pm and 7–11pm. Closed Oct–Apr.

Taverna Sklithiri

SEAFOOD A terrace on a golden beach with a turquoise sea almost lapping up against the tables is the perfect Greek-island setting. Off the grill comes the freshest fish, and plump mussels are roasted in white wine. Friendly service befits the relaxed surroundings. Though the restaurant is about 8km (5 miles) west of Skiathos Town, it’s easy to reach by bus, halfway between stops 11 and 12.

Tzaneria Beach.

694/693-2869. Entrees 9€–18€. Daily noon–midnight. Closed Oct–Apr.

The attractive island capital is relatively new, mostly built in the 1930s then reconstructed after heavy German bombardment in World War II. Outdoor cafes, postcard stands, and souvenir shops are as profuse as the bougainvillea that climbs whitewashed houses clustered on two low hills above the harbor.

Among the picturesque remnants of old Skiathos are the 13th-century fort that Venetians erected on a pine-clad peninsula; known as Bourtzi, it’s now a cultural center. Ferries and hydrofoils stop at the port on the east side of the fortress, while fishing boats and beach excursion caiques dock to the west. An old quarter of cobblestone and stepped lanes surrounds the Church of Trion Ierarchon (Three Archbishops) to the west of the port. Bars, clubs, and ouzeries stretch cheek-by-jowl along the waterfront all the way to the yacht harbor.

The island’s top attractions are the famed beaches ringing the coves and bays that etch the south coast. All are sandy and protected from the northerly meltemi winds; a welcome barrier of pine trees also shields them from an almost unbroken line of resorts, shops, and restaurants.

The rugged, mountainous interior is a world removed, with enough sights to make it worthwhile to rent a car for a day of exploring. You can easily see the island sights and still have time to hit the beach in the late afternoon: Moni Evangelistrias is only a 10-to-15-minute drive north of Skiathos town, and Kastro another 20 minutes beyond that. If you enjoy hiking, there’s an easy-to-follow footpath through the brush to Moni Evangelistrias; ask at the tourist information office for directions. One of the island’s most popular activities is dog walking at the Skiathos Dog Welfare Association (skiathosdogshelter.com), in the hills above Troulos Beach. The shelter houses dogs and cats abandoned by owners and left to go feral (a common problem throughout Greece) and works with international groups to find homes for the animals. Visitors are welcomed daily between 9am and 1pm to walk the dogs along roads and paths in the surrounding woods. The shelter is about 3km (2 miles) from Troulos on the inland road.

The Skiathos Man of Letters

Writer Alexandros Papadiamandis (1851–1911) was born and raised on Skiathos. After a career as a journalist in Athens, he returned to the island in 1908 and lived until his death in this humble dwelling now known as the Papadiamandis House, off an alley to the right of Papadiamandis, near the harbor ( 24270/23-843; admission 3€; Tues–Sun 9:30am–1pm and 5–8pm). Simply furnished rooms, filled with the writer’s personal possessions and tools of his trade, are well worth a visit for the light they shed on a style of island life that has all but disappeared in the past century. Papadiamandis is not widely translated or known outside of Greece, though his nearly 200 short stories and novellas, mostly about Greek island life, assured him a major reputation at home. His Tales from a Greek Island, set on Skiathos, is good reading before a visit. Although the tales are rife with superstition, hardship, and the insularity of island life, they are not without beauty and even some juicy sensuality (as in “The swelling flesh beneath the thin camisole hinted that here was a store of pale lilies, dewy and freshly cut, with veins the color of a white rose”). You’ll find a statue of Papadiamandis standing in front of the Bourtzi fortress.

Kastro

RUIN By the 16th century, repeated pirate raids had forced Skiathos islanders to take refuge in a fortified compound on high ground. A drawbridge, moat, and high, thick walls deterred invaders approaching by land, while steep cliffs dropping into the water thwarted any raid by sea. The settlement thrived for years, with a village of 300 houses and 22 churches eventually taking root within the walls. It lasted until the 1820s, when piracy ended under the newly created Greek state, making seaside settlement safe once again. Kastro was abandoned for Skiathos Town, and the elements began to take their toll on the wind-swept headland. Today, all but a few houses and churches have crumbled into the Aegean. A short but steep path leads uphill from the road to the ruins, where you can walk around, peering in at the faded frescoes in the church of Yeni Nisi tou Khristou. Most impressive, however, are the views across the sea to the islet of Kastronisia. Another steep path drops from the ruins to a pebbly beach beneath the headland.

8.5km (5 mi) NE of Skiathos Town. From Moni Evangelistrias (see below), drive W then N (3km/2 mi).

Moni Evangelistrias

RELIGIOUS SITE A setting atop a deep ravine amid pines and cypresses lends this large monastery of golden stone an especially ethereal quality. Founded by monks who left the mainland’s Mount Athos after a dispute in 1794, like many monasteries around Greece the compound was soon sheltering revolutionaries fighting for freedom from the Turkish occupation. It’s claimed that the first Greek flag was woven here and raised above the high walls in 1807. The icon-filled church has been restored, and monks’ cells, a kitchen, and a refectory surround the shady courtyard.

5km (3 mi) N of Skiathos Town (take airport rd). Free admission. Daily 10am–7pm. Bus from Skiathos Town.

More than 50 beaches ring Skiathos, and 50,000 summertime visitors set their sights on them. You’ll be able to rent beach chairs and umbrellas on most beaches, even the remote north coast strands that are accessible only by boat.

You’ll also find plenty of ways to stay active, especially on the south coast beach. Activities abound on Kanapitsa Beach, where the Kanapitsa Water Sports Center (

24270/21298) will equip you to water-ski, jet-ski, and windsurf, and the Dolphin Diving Center (

24270/21599), organizes dives and offers certification. On Vassilias Beach, Stefanos Ski School (

24270/21487) rents boats and runs water-skiing and wakeboard lessons.

SOUTH COAST BEACHES Some of Greece’s most beautiful beaches are along this stretch of coast. A shuttle bus plies the south coast as often as every 20 minutes in summer, making 25 stops between Skiathos Town and Koukounaries. At the far western end of the island, the bus chugs along an inland waterway, Lake Strofilias, making stops at the edge of a fragrant pine forest, beyond which are long ribbons of sand. Koukounaries

, 12km (7 miles) west of Skiathos Town, is widely touted as the most beautiful strand on the island. No one can deny the loveliness of this golden crescent, stretching for 1km (1⁄2 mile) with crystalline waters backed by fragrant pine groves (Koukounaries means “pine cones” in Greek), but you’ll be sharing paradise with thousands of other beachgoers. Those in search of relative quiet can stroll from Koukounaries for about 2km (1 mile) through shady groves to Limonki Xerxes and Elias, two lovely beaches on the Mandraki Peninsula

at the far northwestern tip of the island. (Rough dirt roads lead to all these beaches.) Limonki Xerxes is named for the Persian king, who moored his fleet here before his ill-fated attempt to conquer the Greek mainland during the Persian wars in the 5th century b.c. A few piles of stones on the peninsula are believed to be some of the world’s first lighthouses, erected by the Persians to guide their triremes safely across the reefs at night. Nudists usually find their way to Little Banana

(a reference to the shape and color of the beach), also known as Krasa.

NORTH COAST BEACHES The top contender for the island’s most scenic spot is Lalaria

, a stretch of marble pebbles nestled beneath limestone cliffs. The Tripia Petra—natural arches sculpted from the rock by wind and waves—frame the beach, and the marble seabed gives the turquoise waters a nearly supernatural translucence. Caves are etched into the base of the cliffs, and just to the east are three spectacular sea grottoes—Spilia Skotini (Dark Cave), Spilia Galazia (Azure Cave), and Spilia Halkini (Copper Cave). Boats squeeze through the narrow channel into Spilia Skotini and shine a light to transform the 6m-high (20 ft.) cavern into a neon-blue water world. Boat excursions to Lalaria leave from the port in Skiathos Town about 10am every day and usually include a stop on the beach beneath Kastro (p. 289), from which a steep trail climbs the cliffs to the ruins. Lalaria and the grottoes can be reached only by boat excursions. You can also hire a water taxi, but it’s costly and you’ll share the beach and grottoes with excursion boat tours anyway.

You can count on Skiathos Town for a lively nightclub scene, especially on the narrow lanes off Papadiamandis in the center of town and on the quays of the old port. Polytechniou is also lively, known as “Bar Street.” Many clubs don’t survive much longer than a season or two, but a reliable year-in, year-out island institution is the Aegean Festival, staged from late June through early October in the outdoor theater of the Bourtzi. Events range from classical Greek drama to modern dance and experimental music; most begin at 9:30pm and cost 15€. Movie fans might enjoy the open-air 9pm showings at Attikon (on Papadiamandis, opposite Mare Nostum Holidays). A perennial favorite is Mama Mia!, filmed on neighboring Skopelos and screened to boisterous audience participation.

Skopelos is larger, greener, and lower-key than its near neighbor Skiathos, and, for the most part, carpeted by pine groves and orchards rather than by resorts. Not that Skopelos shuns visitors—a still-lingering surge in popularity was inspired by the 2008 film Mamma Mia! and its 2018 sequel, both shot in large part on the island. (Bar owners and even bus drivers proudly blast the soundtrack to show off their fame.) Yet you’ll still encounter relatively undisturbed island life in the empty countryside, on the cove-etched coast, and in two beautiful towns, Skopelos and Glossa. Skopelos Town is especially appealing, a dazzling display of white houses, with a ruined Venetian fortress overlooking terracotta roofs, the sea, and the blue domes of dozens of chapels.

Skopelos has 360 churches, many built by grateful islanders who survived the mass slaughter wreaked by Barbarossa, the Ottoman pirate. The sight of so many white churches glistening on the hillsides inspired the novelist Lawrence Durrell to remark that Skopelos islanders count churches, not sheep, when they can’t sleep. Visiting churches and monasteries is one of the draws of Skopelos, along with seeking out beaches in secluded coves and visiting the mountainous interior and remote villages.

GETTING THERE Most boats from the mainland ports of Agios Konstantinos and Volos first stop at Skiathos, where you sometimes have to change boats. Total travel time from the mainland to Skopelos is a little less than 4 hours by ferry, about 2 hours by hydrofoil. From Skiathos, about eight hydrofoils make the 45-minute crossing to Skopelos Town daily; most also serve Glossa. Skopelos has no airport, but many visitors fly to Skiathos and continue by boat from there. For more information, see Skiathos Essentials, p. 279.

VISITOR INFORMATION The Municipal Tourist Office of Skopelos is on the waterfront, to the left of the pier as you disembark (

24240/23-231). Open daily from 9:30am to 10pm in high season, it’s handy for maps and information on beaches and hikes, and will also help you find a room if you arrive without a reservation. The many private agencies on the waterfront promenade include Dolphins of Skopelos (dolphinofskopelos.com;

24240/29191, open all year), a handy place to buy boat tickets, rent cars, and get info about the island.

GETTING AROUND You can get around Skopelos fairly easily by bus, with service every half-hour in the high season beginning in Skopelos Town (the terminal near the harbor entrance), making stops at Stafilos, Agnondas, Panormos, Milia, Elios, Klima, and Glossa (also known as Loutraki). The trip from Skopelos Town to Glossa takes 55 min. You can buy tickets on the bus. Fares vary depending on distance; the ride from Skopelos to Glossa costs 3.40€. Taxis will take you to almost any place on the island; the taxi stand is at the far end of the waterfront (left off the dock). Taxis are not metered—negotiate the fare before you get in. A typical fare, from Skopelos to Glossa, runs 40€. The easiest way to see the island is by car or moped, rented at one of the many shops on the port. In season, car rentals begin at about 40€ a day, while mopeds rent for about 20€ a day. Excursion boats to Glisteri, Gliphoneri, and other beaches operate from the port in peak season.

If you arrive in high season without a reservation, your only option may be to rent one of the many rooms available in private homes. You’ll find “Rooms to Let” signs all over the island, especially in Skopelos Town and Glossa (in Glossa, shops and tavernas often advertise rooms).

Adrina Beach Hotel and Resort & Spa

With a romantic namesake (the female pirate Adrina), this pleasant little resort climbing above a beautiful cove is a true island getaway. Guest rooms are large and tastefully done in whites and pastels with sleek contemporary furnishings, and each has its own sea-view balcony or veranda, surrounded by greenery. Large, simply furnished two-floor maisonettes are ideal for families. More luxurious villa units sleep up to six and are raked down the steep slope toward the hotel’s private beach. A big saltwater pool is one of many amenities.

About 500m (1⁄4 mi) from Panormos. www.adrina.gr.

24240/23373. 58 units. 55€–240€ double; villas 150€–400€. Rates include buffet breakfast. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; children’s playground; Jacuzzi; minimarket; pool; beach; spa; Wi-Fi (free). Closed Oct–Apr.

Hotel Denise

All these large, bright, simply furnished rooms on a hillside above the port open to balconies overlooking the town, sea, and surrounding mountains and the large swimming pool on the terrace. Hospitality includes free port pick-up and drop-off.

Skopelos Town. www.denise.gr.

24240/22-678. 25 units. 40€–60€ double. Rates include Continental breakfast. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; Wi-Fi (free). Closed Oct–May.

Skopelos Village

This low-key resort is just a 10-minute walk from the port in Skopelos Town but is a world of its own. Spacious, bungalow-like accommodations with crisp, attractive furnishings, fully equipped kitchens, and one or two bedrooms are scattered amid fragrant gardens and around two inviting swimming pools. A beach is just beyond the entrance, and there’s daily transport to other island beaches.

About 1km (1⁄2 mi) SE of Skopelos Town center. www.skopelosvillage.gr.

24240/22-517. 36 units. 175€–195€ double; 210€ bungalow for up to 6. Rates include buffet breakfast. Amenities: 2 restaurants; babysitting; pool; room service; Wi-Fi (free).

Island hillsides are carpeted with plum and orchards, and the fruit shows up alongside chicken and pork in tasty island stews. Octopus, usually grilled, is a staple on most taverna menus.

Taverna Agnanti

TRADITIONAL SKOPELITAN Despite considerable acclaim, and the occasional celebrity sighting, this informal Glossa landmark is simple and unfussy. A long menu ranges from herb fritters and smoked cheese in grape leaves to succulent pork roasted with prunes or chicken breast with sun-dried tomatoes. Sardines are just caught and grilled, as is herb-infused lamb. The terrace overlooking the town and bay (the name means “View”) is by far the choice place to be on an evening in Glossa, all the better when musicians are on hand to provide rembetika, the Greek version of American blues.

Glossa, near Town Hall. agnanti.com.gr.

24240/33-076. Entrees 6€–22€. Daily 11am–midnight.

Taverna Alexander

GREEK Islanders tend to call this place in the upper reaches of Skopelos Town the “Garden,” because summertime dining is in a stone-walled courtyard planted with pine, jasmine, and lemon trees. A well supplies fresh spring water that, along with a palatable island wine, accompanies such standards as mushrooms with garlic, calamari stuffed with cheese, and pork baked with plums from the garden.

Manolaki St., Skopelos Town.

24240/22324. Entrees 7€–15€. Daily 7–11pm. Closed Nov–Mar.

The island capital and the administrative center for the Sporades is one of the most appealing island towns in Greece, holding its own against an onslaught of visitors. White houses and blue-domed churches climb a hillside above the bay, and the narrow streets look over rooftops of rough-hewn slate to the sea.

Folklore Museum

MUSEUM A colorfully historic collection a couple of minutes’ walk up from the waterfront focuses on domestic furnishings and the embroidery for which island women are known throughout Greece. Just as interesting is the old mansion in which the costumes, ceramics, and other handiwork are displayed.

Kastro

RUIN Keep walking up and up from the waterfront, and you’ll eventually reach the 13th-century Kastro, erected by the Venetian lords who were awarded the Sporades after the sack of Constantinople. They built this stronghold on the foundations of an ancient acropolis from the 5th century b.c.; amid the ancient masonry you may spot the ruins of fortress walls built by Philip of Macedonia when he took the island in 340 b.c. The highest and oldest of the town’s 123 churches, 11th-century Agios Athanasios, rises from within the Kastro walls.

The Mount Poulouki Monasteries

MONASTERIES The slopes of Mount Poulouki, topping a peninsula to the east of Skopelos Town, cradle a clutch of the island’s 40 monasteries amid olive groves and prune and almond orchards that give way to deeply green pine forests. Moni Evangelismou, about 4km (21⁄2 miles) east of Skopelos Town, was founded in 1712 by a Skopelitan noble who imported monks from the mainland’s Mount Athos to establish a center of learning. Today the all-but-deserted compound is best appreciated for its remote location and spectacular views toward Skopelos Town and the sea, as well as a beautiful, 11th-century icon of the Virgin Mary. Agia Barbara, about 6km (4 miles) east of Skopelos Town, is heavily fortified and surrounded by a high wall; its church is decorated with frescoes that colorfully depict the main feasts in the Orthodox calendar. St. John the Baptist (also known as Prodromos, or Forerunner) is only 300m (984 ft.) away, housing some especially beautiful icons. Just beyond the pair is Metamorphosis, the oldest monastery on the island, founded in the 16th century (hours for the last three vary considerably). You can visit them on foot along a well-marked 6km (31⁄2-mile path that climbs the mountain from Skopelos Town; the tourist office can give you a map. Some can also be reached by car, though the roads are rough; follow signs toward Moni Evangelismou from Skopelos Town.

Free admission (donations welcome). In season, open daily 8am–1pm and 4–7pm.

Pirates of the aegean

Greece has a long tradition of piracy that dates back to ancient times. Hundreds of islands, most of them uninhabited, once provided hidden anchorages from which to launch attacks on merchandise-laden ships crisscrossing the Aegean on the way to and from the Near East, North Africa, and Western Europe. The Sporades, floating in the lucrative sea routes to and from Thessaloniki, were pirate lairs well into the 19th century. An infamous female pirate, Adrina, operated out of the Sporades until islanders slaughtered her marauders and she plunged to her death from a rock above the bay at Panormos, on Skopelos—but not, or so the story goes, before burying a horde of gold somewhere along the shoreline. On Skyros, islanders cashed in on the marauding business by alerting pirates to merchant ships that were especially ripe for plunder (receiving, of course, a cut of the profits in return). Skyrian workshops still turn out ceramics and hand-carved chests and chairs based on exotic designs that pirates brought to the island from afar.

A single highway, 37km (22 miles) long, curves around the island. It runs south from Skopelos Town, then swings northwest to skirt the west coast, eventually arriving at Glossa. The island is laced with hiking trails, and islander Heather Parsons—who heads efforts to maintain and mark trails—leads guided walks, from gentle rambles to full-day hikes, and has published a book, Skopelos Trails. For information, go to skopelos-walks.com, or call

694/524-9328.

South of Skopelos Town, the rugged terrain drops down to seaside promontories surrounded by small, sparkling bays along the Drachondoschisma Peninsula. This is where St. Reginos is believed to have slain a dragon that was devouring islanders in the 4th century. Agnonda, a small fishing port on the west side of the peninsula (5km/3 miles south of Skopelos Town), is named for an island youth who sailed into the cove after his victory in the 546 b.c. Olympic games. Stafylos, 2 km (1 mile) east across the peninsula, is also steeped in ancient legend. It’s named for the son of Ariadne—daughter of Crete’s King Minos—and Dionysos, the god who rescued her when she was abandoned on Naxos (p. 158). Whatever the real parentage of Stafylos may have been, he is believed to have been a Minoan who found his way this far north. A 3,500-year-old tomb thought to be his was unearthed in 1935, filled with gold and weapons. Stafylos is these days a popular but low-key beach, while Velania, a short trek across a headland, is more isolated and quieter; bathing suits are optional.

Beach life on Skopelos centers on Milia, Adrina, and other stretches of broad, sheltered Panormos Bay

, once a lair for pirates (see box, p. 290). A few stony remnants of an 8th-century-b.c. settlement are hidden amid the pine woods above the sparkling waters, about 11km (7 miles) west of Skopelos Town. Inland are the orchards where farmers grow plums and apricots, for which Skopelos is famous throughout Greece.

Glossa (Loutraki)

TOWN The island’s second settlement after Skiathos Town, Glossa (also known as Loutraki) is much more bucolic than the capital and also beautiful, rising from the sea on terraced hillsides. Steep streets wind past gardens where residents grow prunes and almonds, just as they do in the surrounding orchards, and most of the houses have sturdy balconies looking out to sea. The most popular landmark these days is just to the east of town, Agios Ioannis Kastri church. On a rocky outcropping above the sea, the little chapel is so incredibly picturesque, it steals the show in the film Mamma Mia!

Klima

TOWN An earthquake dislodged all the residents of one of the island’s most prosperous towns in 1965, but Klima is slowly being reclaimed. Some trim houses, newly whitewashed and roofed with red tiles, are taking shape amid the rubble in Ano Klima, the upper town, and Kato Klima, the lower town. Even so, the place still has the atmospheric feel of a ghost town. Looking through paneless windows and open doorways, you’ll catch glimpses of abandoned bakery ovens and kalliagres, hand-operated olive presses, remnants of life the way it was when the village came to a standstill. Elios, just 3km (2 miles) south, hurriedly assembled in the wake of the 1960s earthquake, is far less colorful than Klima, whose residents were resettled here. Next to town, though, is cliff-backed Hovolo, one of the island’s most scenic beaches. Kastani, about 2km (1 mile) south of Elios, is one of the few sandy beaches on the island.

The nightlife scene on Skopelos isn’t nearly as active as on neighboring Skiathos, but there are still plenty of bars and late-night cafes. Most of the coolest bars are on the far (east) side of Skopelos Town, but you can wander the scene around Platanos Square, beyond and along the waterfront. Skopelos is known for keeping alive rembetika music, the Greek version of American blues, which can be heard in many tavernas late in the evening. In Skopelos Town, you can often hear rembetika at Ouzerie Anatoli (

24240/22851), above the Kastro, and in Glossa at Taverna Agnanti (

24240/33076).

Carnival madness

The 12 days of pre-Lenten Carnival celebrations are especially festive on Skopelos, with two idiosyncratic traditions. The Trata is a raucous celebration of seagoing life, stemming from the islanders’ history as master shipbuilders until well into the early 20th century. Men gather in the morning to construct makeshift boats, then put on masks and costumes and carry the craft through the streets, singing, dancing, and goading onlookers as they go. Once at the seaside, they burn and sink the boats in a final burst of revelry. Valch’s Wedding is a women-only event, in which costumed bridal parties dance their way through the streets and squares of Skopelos Town to the accompaniment of folk music, stopping along the way for sweets and wine. Valch’s Wedding isn’t the only time women call the shots: Skopelos is a matrilineal society, where property is passed to women and held in a woman’s name even after marriage.

Cloaked in green and surrounded by pristine waters, little Alonissos is the only inhabited island within the boundaries of the National Marine Park of Alonissos Northern Sporades (p. 294). Founded in 1992, the park protects the waters and islands of the eastern Sporades and the myriad creatures who thrive there. These include dolphins, falcons, seabirds, and, most notably, the highly endangered monk seal (see box, p. 295). By land, Alonissos is a treasure, too, with its rugged landscapes of pine and cedar forests, rockbound coasts, and an ambience that is far more low-key than that of Skopelos and seems to be a century or so behind Skiathos. You can easily visit Alonissos on a day trip from one of those busier places, but the island is a great place to settle in and relax for a few days or a week.

GETTING THERE Alonissos is on the same hydrofoil and ferry routes that serve Skiathos and Skopelos. It’s about 41⁄2 hours by ferry and 2 hours by hydrofoil from the mainland ports of Volos or Agios Konstantinos. In summer there is also once-a-week ferryboat service (21⁄2 hr.) from Kymi, on the island of Evvia. Since these boats connect all three islands, it’s easy to get from Alonissos to Skopelos (about 1⁄2 hr. by ferry, 25 minutes by hydrofoil) and Skiathos (about 11⁄2 hr. by ferry, 1⁄2 hr. by hydrofoil). For more information, see Skiathos Essentials, p. 279.

VISITOR INFORMATION Any of the many agencies near the waterfront in the island’s main town, Patitiri, can provide information about enjoying the island and surrounding national park. Two of the best-established are Albedo Travel (www.alonissosholidays.com;

24240/65804) and Alonissos Travel (www.alonnisostravel.gr;

24240/66000). Both are excellent resources for accommodation on the island and also arrange boat tours and other excursions.

GETTING AROUND You can do most of your touring on foot and by taxi, boat, and seasonal bus. Alonissos has limited bus service, but it’s handy for getting from Patitiri to Hora and some of the beaches around the fishing port of Steni Vala, the end of the route. Service runs only from June 1 to the end of September, and even then, not too frequently. Fare is 1.70€, payable on the bus. If you take the bus up to Hora, you can walk back down to Patitiri via a centuries-old stepped path; the 3km (2-mile) hike takes less than an hour.

You might want to rent a car for a day to explore the island’s hinterlands and beaches. Many agencies in Patitiri rent cars and bikes, from about 30€ a day for a small car with manual transmission, including both Albedo Travel and Alonissos (see above).

Archipelagos

GREEK/SEAFOOD Many islanders claim that the fish and seafood at this waterfront favorite is the freshest and best prepared on Alonissos. While fish is the star of the show, a huge selection of spreads and mezes are available, as are some excellent meat standards, including lamb cooked with tomatoes and artichokes.

Patitiri.

24240/65031. Entrees 9€–18€. Daily 6pm–midnight. Closed Oct–Apr.

Atrium Hotel

Some of the island’s most stylish and comfortable accommodations are on a pine-clad hillside behind Patitiri. The beach is a short walk away, and all the bright, nicely equipped rooms face the sea from balconies. A large pool gleams in the garden, surrounded by a terrace and cocktail bar.

Patitiri. www.atriumalonnissos.gr.

24240/65750. 80€–165€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Amenities: Bar; pool bar; Wi-Fi (free). Closed mid-Oct–Apr.

Ostria

GREEK/SEAFOOD A standout in a line of eateries along the Patitiri waterfront takes traditional cooking up a notch or two, with such innovations as sea bream stuffed with mountain herbs and ouzo, or pork fillet baked in a ginger-orange sauce. These preparations, along with a long list of standards like mussels saganaki and grilled sardines, bring many island visitors back night after night to try yet another dish. Friendly service is on a covered terrace facing the port.

Patitiri. www.ostria-restaurant.gr.

24240/65243. Entrees 9€–18€. Daily 6pm–midnight. Closed Oct–Apr.

Paradise Hotel

This laid-back, small-scale resort looks out to sea from one of the forested hillsides around the port—from the entrance, handy staircases and a path lead right into the heart of Patitiri. Rooms are simple and fairly basic, though polished stone floors, paneled ceilings, and loads of informal hospitality add character. Most rooms overlook the nice pool and terraced gardens to the sea; terraces in ground-floor units are surrounded by scented greenery, while others have sunny balconies. The property drops through a series of terraces to a beautiful cove.

Above Patitiri. www.paradise-hotel.gr.

24240/65160. 45€–90€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Amenities: Bar; pool; Wi-Fi (free). Closed Oct–mid-May.

This long, narrow island, 23km (14 miles) from north to south and 3km (2 miles) at its widest point, is covered with pine, oak, and scrub in the north and olive groves and fruit orchards in the south. Beaches are pebbly and less spectacular than those on Skiathos and Skopelos, but the waters, protected as they are by the national park, are some of the purest in the Mediterranean.

The island’s only two sizable settlements are in the south. Beautiful hilltop Hora

, or Old Town Alonissos, was largely toppled by an earthquake in 1965 and abandoned. Residents were relocated to the hastily expanded, yet quite pleasant, port town, Patitiri—which takes its name from the dockside wine presses that were much in demand until the 1950s, when a phylloxera infestation laid waste to the island’s vines.

Now populated mostly by Northern Europeans, Hora is slowly being restored. On a clear day, the views extend all the way to Mount Athos on the northern mainland. A road, with bus service in season, connects the two towns, just 3km (2 miles) apart; you can also take an old, stepped mule track on which you can make the ascent in less than an hour.

Most beaches are on the east coast, accessible off the island’s only north–south road; several cluster around Kokkinokastro, about 3km (2 miles) north of Patitiri, and can also be reached by bus. The walls of the ancient city of Ikos are visible beneath the waves.

The National Marine Park of Alonissos Northern Sporades was established in 1992 chiefly to protect the endangered Mediterranean monk seal (see box, p. 295), whose numbers in Greek seas are now estimated to be less than 200. The park covers 2,200 sq. km (849 sq. miles), making it the largest marine protected area in the Mediterranean. Within the park are eight islands (of which only Alonissos is inhabited), 22 rocky outcroppings, and the marine habitats that surround them. In addition to the shy seals, who rarely make an appearance, falcons, dolphins, and wild goats also call the islands home, along with many less showy but nonetheless invaluable species of sponges, algae, and land-lubbing flora, including the wild olive.

In summer, you can tour the park on excursion boats from Alonissos, including trips arranged through Albedo Travel (p. 293); you’ll see signs advertising trips along the dock in Patitiri, where the park also runs an information booth (summer only, hours vary). On the day-long outings (about 45€, with lunch), tour boats chug past the scattered island refuges, though sightings of the seals and wild goats they protect is almost as rare as a glimpse of the Cyclops, who in Homer’s Odyssey inhabited a cave on one of the islands, cliff-ringed Gioura. Dolphins often escort the boats, which keep a safe distance from Piperi, the major habitat for the monk seal and rare Eleonora’s falcon. Stops often include Kyra Panagia, for swimming, snorkeling, and a walk to the island’s one outpost of civilization, the all-but-abandoned Megistis Lavras monastery; Psathoura, where the tallest lighthouse in the Aegean rises above a white-sand beach and the remains of an ancient city is visible on the seabed; and Peristera, opposite Alonissos and alluring for its remote beaches.

The Mediterranean monk seal

The Mediterranean monk seal is one of the world’s most endangered marine mammals—only an estimated 600 exist worldwide. Hunting probably pushed the numbers close to extinction as early as Roman and medieval times, and even until recently fishermen routinely killed off the seals to cut down on competition—these huge creatures (on average 2.5m long, or more than 8 ft., and weighing up to 300kg/661 lb.) devour 3kg (7 lb.) of fish, octopus, squid, and other sea creatures a day. Since development has sullied once pristine shorelines, the seals no longer lounge and whelp on open beaches and instead seek out sea caves with submerged entrances far from human intrusion. Battered by waves, the caves are less than ideal nurseries, and infant mortality is high. For ancient Greeks, sighting a monk seal was an omen of good fortune. The creature’s survival would bode equally well for the Sporades.

Conservationists applaud the park’s preservation efforts, while many locals claim the park impinges on resort development, fishing, and other economic opportunities. Make it a point to let restaurateurs and hoteliers know that you have come to the Sporades in part to enjoy the park—that the park enhances tourism rather than hindering it.

Alonissos is laced with a network of 14 walking trails that traverse the length of the island, crossing olive groves, pine forests, and rocky gorges and dropping down to secluded coves. Walking tours and route maps are available through Albedo Travel on the waterfront in Patitiri (www.alonissosholidays.com;

24240/65804). If you plan to do some serious walking on Alonissos, pick up a copy of Alonissos Through the Souls of Your Feet, available at Albedo and elsewhere on the island, as well as one of the good hiking maps available at shops along the Patitiri waterfront.

These seas also harbor a number of ancient shipwrecks as well as some sunken vessels from the days of Byzantine and Venetian occupation. Diving and snorkeling tours, along with instruction and gear, is available from Alonissos Triton Dive Center, in Patitiri (bestdivingingreece.com;

24240/65804).

Adrift by itself in the Aegean, far from the other major Sporades, Skyros is a land apart. You will discover that there is something different about this island as soon as you set eyes on Skyros Town, a cliff-hugging, white mirage that seems to float above the surrounding plain. The impression won’t wane as you explore the rest of this most distinctive Greek island.

GETTING THERE The challenge of getting to Skyros can deter even the most determined traveler. From Athens, the trip is easiest by air. In summer, Olympic Air (www.olympicair.com and Aegean Airlines (en.aegeanair.com) usually operate three flights a week between Athens and Skyros, as well as between Thessaloniki and Skyros. A bus meets most flights and goes to Skyros town, Magazia, and sometimes Molos; the fare is 6€. A taxi from the airport is about 18€, but expect to share a cab.

Skyros Shipping Company (www.sne.gr;

22220/91-780) offers the only ferry service to Skyros; stockholders are all citizens of the island. Service runs from Kymi, on the east coast of the island of Evvia, which is about 2 hours from Athens by bus. In summer, service runs at least twice daily (usually early afternoon and early evening) from Kymi to Skyros, and twice daily (usually early morning and mid-afternoon) from Skyros to Kymi; the trip takes a little more than 2 hours, making this by far the quickest boat connection to Skyros. Off season, there’s one ferry each way, leaving Skyros early in the morning and Kymi in late afternoon. Skyros Shipping and the many agencies that sell tickets for the boat service also sell bus tickets to and between Athens and Kymi. In summer only, the company’s boats also link Skyros to the other Sporades and to Volos on the mainland, about a 4-hour bus trip from Athens. It’s a long trip through the Sporades, though, 5 hours from Alonissos to Skyros, 6 hours from Skopelos to Skyros, 71⁄2 hours from Skiathos to Skyros, and 10 hours from Volos to Skyros. The best way to see if and how you might be able to travel between Skyros and one of the other Sporades is to go to the company’s website, www.sne.gr, or to www.gtp.gr or www.ferryhopper.com.

VISITOR INFORMATION The largest tourist office on the island is Skyros Travel and Tourism (www.skyrostravel.com;

22220/91-123), in the main market. The staff offers assistance with accommodations, tickets, car and bike rentals, and tours.

GETTING AROUND On Skyros, ferries and hydrofoils dock at Linaria, on the opposite side of the island from Skyros town. The island’s only public bus will meet the boat and take you over winding, curving roads to Skyros town for 2€. In high season, Skyros Travel (see above) offers a twice-daily excursion bus to the beaches, as well as a daylong island excursion in a small bus with an English-speaking guide. For many, this may be the best way to get an overview of the island. A small car rents from about 30€ per day. Mopeds and motorcycles are available near the police station or the taxi station for about 25€ per day. The island has a relatively well-developed network of roads.

Skyros has relatively few hotels, but finding a room is generally very easy—an eager throng, mostly women, meets passengers disembarking from boats with signs and cries of room to let. You will also encounter room-letters near the main bus stop in Skyros Town. These accommodations are in private homes and immaculately kept. You’ll save yourself and a potential host time and trouble if you arrive with some idea of where you want to stay on the island. Set your sights on the upper part of Skyros Town—the narrow lanes are delightful, the views are sweeping, and the beach is a pleasant walk away.

A Holistic Getaway

Skyros Centre is a well-established “holistic” vacation resort with beachside units near Atsitsa and accommodations in traditional houses in Skyros Town. This is not a hotel: Guests don’t just stay but participate in programs that last a week or two and include sessions in dance, yoga, handicrafts, sailing, meditation, writing, and more. All are a very nice way to experience the island. For more information, check out the center at www.skyros.com.

Hotel Angela

This little whitewashed compound run by a young family surrounds a swimming pool. The location is well suited for guests without their own transport, as it’s just below Skyros Town and steps from the beach at Molos. Rooms are simple with basic bathrooms but well-kept and comfortable. All have balconies with glimpses of the sea and the white town on the bluff above.

Molos. www.angelahotelskyros.com.

22220/91764. 14 units. 90€–100€ double. Rates include breakfast. Amenities: Pool; Wi-Fi (free). Closed mid-Oct–Apr.

Hotel Nefeli

Suites, apartments with kitchenettes, and hotel-style rooms are spread through three buildings, and many have sea views. All are distinctly decorated and furnished in traditional Skyrian style, with lots of carved wood pieces. The center of Skyros Town and the beach are a short walk away, and the large pool is surrounded by a comfortable terrace. Reserve in advance, as this is one of the favorite choices on Skyros and it’s often booked.

Skyros town center. www.skyros-nefeli.gr.

22220/91-964. 16 units. 75€–120€ double. Breakfast 6€. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; children’s play area; 2 pools (1 children’s); Wi-Fi (free).

Skiros Palace Hotel

One of the few real resorts on the island is low-key and set in well-tended gardens. You will not find much in the way of world-class luxuries, but furnishings in the plain rooms are comfortable, and terraces and balconies face a large saltwater pool. A long, sandy beach is just across the road; Skyros Town is 3km (2 miles) away, but a minibus makes the run several times a day. Among many amenities are a sailboat for excursions and a basketball court.

Girismata Kampos.  skirospalace.gr.

22220/91994. 80 units. 85€–110€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; pool; tennis; Wi-Fi (free). Closed mid-Oct–Apr.

Margetes

GREEK This simple-as-can-be but always crowded dining room in the center of Skyros Town, with a warm-weather terrace, is known for fish and meats, including goat roasted in lemon sauce. They’re accompanied by baked eggplant, fava spread, and other old-fashioned standards.

Main St., Skyros Town.

22220/91311. Entrees 6€–10€. Daily 1–3pm and 6pm–midnight.

A pagan custom Preserved in Skyros

An age-old tradition in Skyros, the pre-Lenten Apokriatika festival is famous throughout Greece. On each of the four Sundays before Clean Monday (the first Monday of Lent), men and a few large women don goat-hair jackets and goat masks and drape themselves in goat bells. Other men, dressed in traditional wedding garb, and women and children in their Western-style Sunday best, surround them. Ensembles proceed through the streets of Skyros Town, singing, brandishing shepherds’ crooks, and reciting bawdy verses. When two groups meet, they try to outdo each other with bell clanking, ribald gestures, and shouting. Scholars trace this traditional event tradition to pagan Dionysian revels and Achilles-style cross-dressing (p. 30). Many spectators make it a point to visit the island for the goings-on. If you plan to attend, book a room months in advance.

O Pappous ki Ego

GREEK The name translates as “My grandfather and I,” and the appealing room, a former pharmacy in Skyros Town, is now under the watchful eye of the grandson. The dolmades and other meze are delicious, as are some of the meat and fish dishes; cuttlefish in anise sauce is a specialty. Live music is sometimes performed on weekend evenings.

Main St., Skyros Town.

22220/93200. Entrees 6€–10€. Daily 1–3pm and 6pm–midnight.

The island’s only sizable town, home to most of the 3,000 Skyrians, inspires many flattering comparisons—to a mirage, a magical kingdom, or, most accurately and prosaically, to a village on one of the islands in the Cyclades. It’s only fitting that this stunning collection of white, flat-roofed houses clinging to a high rocky bluff has figured in myth since ancient times. The sea nymph Thetis sent her son, Achilles, to the island disguised as a young woman to outwit the oracle’s prediction that he would die in the Trojan War; the ruse worked until Odysseus unmasked the boy’s true identity and sent him off to battle on a Skyrian pony. In another legendary episode, Theseus—founder-king of Athens and son of Poseidon and Aegeus—fled to Skyros when he fell out of favor; Lycomedes, king of the island, eventually pushed him over a cliff.

The town’s main street is known as Sisyphus, and the reason soon becomes abundantly clear once you start hiking up its steep incline. At the top is the Venetian-era Kastro and, within its walls, the monastery of Agios Yeoryios. Founded in 962, the monastery contains a famous black-faced icon of St. George brought from Constantinople. From one side of the citadel, the view is over the rooftops of the town; from the other, the cliff drops precipitously to the sea (this, according to myth, is where King Lycomides pushed Theseus to his death).

Farther down the slope on Plateia Rupert Brooke, a statue memorializes the British poet, who in 1915 died on a hospital ship just off Skyros and is buried on the southern end of the island (see p. 300). The flatteringly virile bronze nude is not a likeness—it was intended as an immortalization of poetry—and it caused a public outcry when it was unveiled in the 1930s. The Folklore Museum (see below) is on Plateia Rupert Brooke, as is the Archaeological Museum (

22220/91327), which displays small stone vessels and other primitive finds from Palamari (see p. 299). It’s open Tuesday through Sunday, 8:30am to 3pm; admission is 2€.

As you wander the steep lanes of Skyros Town, you’ll notice women in long scarves sitting in doorways, bent over vibrantly colored embroidery with fanciful flower and bird designs. Some older men on the island still wear their traditional baggy trousers and black caps. Many Skyrian homes are museum-like repositories for colorful plates, embroidery, copperware, and carved furniture—a point of pride and a throwback to the days of Byzantine occupation, when families made fortunes from the lucrative Near East sea lanes. The merchant ships were soon followed by pirates, with whom the Skyrian ruling families went into business. The families knew what boats were expected and what they were carrying, and the pirates had the ships and bravado to steal the cargo—and then share with their informants.

The Manos Faltaits Historical and Folklore Museum

MUSEUM/HISTORIC HOME The private collection of islander Manos Faltaits, lodged in his family home, contains a large and varied selection of plates, embroidery, weaving, woodworking, and clothing, as well as many rare books and photographs. Seeing the fascinating collection is all the more satisfying once you begin to witness how many of these collectibles are still part of everyday island life. Attached to the museum is a workshop where young artisans make lovely objects using traditional patterns and materials. Proceeds from the sale of workshop items go to the museum’s upkeep. The museum also has a shop, Argo, on the main street of town (

22220/92-158), open daily from 10am to 1pm and 6:30 to 11pm.

Plateia Rupert Brooke. www.faltaits.gr.

22220/92158. Admission 2€. Daily 10am–2pm and 6–9pm.

You can drive around the north half of this cinch-waisted island in a counterclockwise circuit from Skyros Town; the entire circuit on a well-marked road is less than 30km (19 miles).

Skyros’ fertile, forested north varies so much from the arid, rugged south that it has been conjectured, wrongly, that the island was at one time two separate land masses. Two seaside villages lie side by side, just below Skyros Town. Magazia, at the bottom of a stairway from Plateia Rupert Brooke, fronts a sandy beach that extends north into Molos, a fishing village. Pouria, just to the north of there, is surrounded by weirdly shaped rock formations that were shaped not by wind and waves but by Romans, who quarried the stone. Palamari, near the airport at the northern tip of the island, was settled around 2000 b.c. by traders and sailors who protected themselves from raiders with trenches and thick stone walls. A sandy beach skirts the harbor where the inhabitants once beached their vessels.

The Fabled Ponies of Skyros

Large herds of the diminutive Skyrian pony once scampered across the rocky interior of Skyros, though now they number less than 150. It’s believed that these beautiful little beasts are the horses that frolic on the Parthenon frieze; Achilles allegedly rode one into battle during the Trojan War. Since the ponies were isolated on Skyros, their bloodlines have changed little over the millennia.

Time was, Skyros farmers put the ponies to work for the harvest, then released them to graze on upland plateaus in the winter. Farm machinery has curtailed the ponies’ careers as beasts of burden, and they vie for terrain with sheep and goats. The ponies are now protected, however, and efforts are afoot to preserve and restore the remaining herds. While you are unlikely to catch a glimpse of a Skyrian pony in the wild, at Mouries Farm in Kalikiri ( 694/746-5900) you can get as close as you wish—and, if you are under the age of 15, climb onto one. Admission is free, though donations are accepted; the center is open daily.

Atsitsa, directly west of Molos on the west coast’s Bay of Petros, is surrounded by several beaches along the pine- and cedar-clad northwest coast; one of the most appealing, Kyra Panagia

, is a 15-minute walk north of Atsitsa. Agios Fokas

, a short drive south of Atsitsa, is usually touted as the island’s most beautiful beach, though it’s actually a triplet of little bays edged with white pebbles. From here, the road swings east and then north back up to Skyros Town.