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Planning Your Trip to GREECE

Greece has famously experienced economic woes in recent years, yet tourism numbers remain high—in fact, there’s been a significant increase—and for a very good reason. A visit to Greece should be an occasion for sheer enjoyment. All it takes is a bit of planning to make the visit all the smoother and more pleasant.

This chapter provides planning tools and other resources to help you get around and get the most out of your time in Greece. First and foremost, it’s important to keep in mind that while Athens goes full-tilt 12 months a year, the time slot for enjoying island life is relatively short, from May to mid-October. Obviously, you can visit the islands outside of those times. Crete, especially, with its big cities of Iraklion and Chania, gets some wintertime visitors. But for the most part, islands are geared to warm weather, and most hotels and restaurants close up tight from fall to late spring.

Whenever you visit, and wherever you go, you’ll enjoy Greece the most if you get into Greek time. That has nothing to do with a clock or season, just a rhythm. Slow down to take notice of life swirling around you. Take a siesta in the heat of the day. Eat late, and dine outdoors under the stars. The Greek economy might be struggling, but in many ways the Greek way of life is as rich as ever.

Getting There

By Plane

The majority of travelers reach Greece by plane, and most arrive at the Athens airport—officially Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport (ATH), sometimes referred to by its new location as “the Spata airport.”

Airlines currently offering direct flights from North America to Athens include American, Delta, Olympic Air, and United. Many airlines these days belong to an “alliance” or code-sharing group, so you might be able to use or earn frequent-flyer miles with one of the other members. On many other airlines you can make connections at most major European airports. Nearly all the big European airlines fly to Greece, and Greece’s own Olympic Airlines (www.olympicair.com) and Aegean (www.aegeanair.com) also fly to and from European cities. Ryanair (www.ryanair.com), EasyJet (www.easyjet.com), and Air Berlin (www.airberlin.com) are among the many low-cost carriers that fly between European hubs and Greece. Some island airports also handle a good number of flights from European countries, especially those on Rhodes and Crete (both Iraklion and Chania), and, to a lesser degree, Skiathos and Kos. Summertime flights increase considerably and expand to such smaller islands as Mykonos, Paros, and Santorini. If you’re thinking of purchasing a ticket through an airfare search engine, keep in mind that researchers at Frommers.com have found that www.skiplagged.com consistently finds the lowest airfares. Tip: Unclick the “Hidden City” button to avoid skiplagging, a somewhat shady technique that involves buying itineraries with stops, then abandoning certain legs (airlines frown upon this).

Strike Strategies

The greatest threats to your well-laid Greek vacation plans may well be the strikes that can close museums and archaeological sites, shut down the metro, keep ferries in port, and stop buses, taxis, and even flights. Strikes are commonplace and often deliberately planned to cause maximum inconvenience for commuters and tourists. The good news is, strikes are usually short-lived and announced in advance. Many websites post strike updates, among them www.ekathimerini.com and www.livinlovin.gr. Your hotel will probably have its own sources and can check to see if buses will be running when you want to get to the airport or if ferries are operating when you’re headed to the islands. One way to protect yourself is to leave time to adjust to last-minute changes—for instance, plan to arrive back in Athens the day before your outbound flight, just in case you need extra time to get to the airport.

By Car

Many Europeans drive to Greece, and some North Americans may also wish to bring in rented cars if they’re traveling from another European country. (Make sure a car rented in another country is allowed to be taken to Greece, including into the countries you may have to drive through en route.) Drivers often come from Italy via ferry, usually disembarking at Patras; the drive to Athens from there is about 210km (130 miles). Others enter from the Former Yugoslavian Republic of Macedonia, or FYROM. (The road from Albania, although passable, doesn’t attract many tourists.) There are no particular problems or delays at the border crossings, providing all your papers are in order. These include valid registration papers, an international third-party insurance certificate, a driver’s license, and an International Driver’s Permit. Arm yourself with a good up-to-date map such as the ones published by Baedeker, Hallwag, Michelin, or Freytag & Berndt.

By Train

There is train service to Greece from virtually all major points in Europe, although the trains tend to be slow and uncomfortable—almost 24 hours from Venice, for example. A Eurail pass is valid for connections all the way to Athens or Istanbul and includes the ferry service from Italy. North Americans must purchase their Eurail passes before arriving in Europe. For information, see www.raileurope.com and www.eurail.com.

By Ship

While most people traveling to Greece from foreign ports these days are on cruise ships, many others still come on ferries or other ships, often from Italy. There is also occasional service from Cyprus, Egypt, Israel, and Turkey. The most common ferry crossing is from Brindisi, Italy, to Patras, Greece—about a 10-hour voyage, with as many as seven departures a day in summer. There is also regular service, twice a day in summer, from the Italian city of Ancona, once daily from Bari, and several times a day from Venice. Passage is often included in Eurail passes, though holders should consult www.raileurope.com or www.eurail.com to see which operators will honor their passes.

Given the number of shipping lines involved and the variations in schedules, it’s best to consult a travel agent about the possibilities, or go to reliable search engines such as www.ferries.gr and www.ferryhopper.com. Book well ahead of time in summer, and reconfirm with the shipping line on the day of departure.

Getting Around

By Plane

Olympic Air (www.olympicair.com) and Aegean Airlines (www.aegeanair.com) offer intra-Greece flights that can be a convenient alternative to boat travel, and, depending on the time of travel, not much more expensive. Among the many airports served are those in Chios; Corfu; Iraklion, Chania, and Sitia, Crete; Kefalonia; Kos; Lesbos; Mykonos; Naxos; Paros; Samos; Santorini (aka Thira); Skiathos; and Skyros. Sky Express (www.skyexpress.gr) also offers limited service between some Greek cities and islands.

By Car

Driving in Greece is a bit of an adventure, but there’s no denying that it’s the best way to see the country at your own pace. Renting a car is the most convenient way to make a circuit of the ancient sites in the Peloponnese, and you’ll probably want to rent a car for at least a day or two of exploring when visiting the islands. The Peloponnese and other regions are now linked to Athens by modern toll roads that are extremely well maintained. The posted speed limit is 120km per hour (75mph), 50km (31mph) in built-up areas, and 80km (50mph) on rural roads.

It’s important to keep alert and drive defensively. Greece has an unenviable road-fatality record, and a very high accident rate. Drivers can be aggressive and erratic, often exceeding the limit, tail-gating (if they’re flashing their headlights, move to a slower lane), and using the shoulder as an extra lane. Drivers often pass on the right, crowd you onto the shoulder in order to pass, ignore stop signs and red lights, and fail to give the right of way. Police are increasingly vigilant, especially about driving under the influence of alcohol; offenses result in stiff fines and jail sentences.

Signs are in Greek and English, but some are easy to miss, obscured by branches, poorly placed, or neglected. Buy a good map. Observe highway signs for how far away the next gas (petrol) station is if you need to fill up (full service), and note that in towns, gas stations close in the evenings and on Sundays (though one is always open on a rotation system). Fuel is quite expensive by American standards, close to $7 a gallon.

Car Rentals   You will find no end of car-rental agencies throughout Greece, both the familiar international chains and many Greek firms. There is considerable variation in prices, although rates in high season generally begin at about 50€ a day and 240€ for a week. Prices will be lower on some islands, depending on the competition, and are definitely lower outside of high season. Shop around and don’t be shy about bargaining. Most cars have a standard shift; if you must have an automatic, make sure in advance that one is available (and be prepared to pay extra). Always ask if the quoted price includes insurance; many credit cards include collision-damage waivers, but you will find that most rental agencies automatically include this in their rates, usually with a deductible of about 500€. Most companies require that the renter be at least 21 years old (25 for some car models). You must also have a major credit card (or be prepared to leave a very large cash deposit).

Parking   Parking is a serious challenge in the cities and towns of Greece. Most city streets have restricted parking of one kind or another. Observe signs carefully, as police are quick to ticket and fines can be steep. Police often remove license plates, necessitating a visit to the police station and payment on the spot to retrieve them. Whenever you park, be sure to lock the car and remove valuables from sight. Better hotels provide parking, either on their premises or by arrangement with a nearby lot.

Get an IDP!

Many non-E.U. drivers in Greece, including those from the U.S., are required to carry an International Driver’s Permit (IDP). While in the past many car rental agencies waived this requirement, enforcement has been tightened, and now many will not rent to you if you don’t have one. Consequences for driving without an IDP can be serious, and expensive. Police often issue stiff fines (in excess of 100€) if you cannot produce an IDP; should you be involved in an accident and not have one, you may discover you’ve been driving illegally and your insurance is invalid. Obtain a permit before leaving home from your national automobile association.

By Boat

Ferries are the most common, cheapest, and generally most “authentic” way to visit the islands. A wide variety of vessels sail Greek waters—many, especially those making longer trips, are huge, sleek, and new, with TV lounges, discos, and good restaurants.

Ferry service (often accommodating vehicles) is available between Athens (Piraeus) and other Greek ports, and the network of interisland boat service is extensive. For some of the Cyclades islands, crossing is shorter and less expensive from Rafina, an hour east of Athens. The Sporades are served by boats from Agios Konstantinos, Kymi, and Volos (with connecting bus service from Athens). Kefalonia is served by ferries to and from Kymi in the western Peloponnese, with bus connections to and from Athens, and Corfu is linked to the mainland with service to and from Igoumenitsa, on the western mainland, also with bus connections from Athens. So-called “Flying Catamarans” and hydrofoils dubbed “Flying Dolphins” serve many of the major islands, though their schedules are often interrupted by weather conditions. Drinks and snacks are almost always sold on board ferries and hydrofoils.

For schedules maintained by the dozens of shipping companies, search online at www.ferryhopper.com, www.gtp.gr, or www.ferries.gr. You can usually depend on purchasing a ticket from a dockside agent or aboard the ship itself, though this is often more expensive. Different travel agencies sell tickets to different lines—this is usually the policy of the line itself—and one agent might not know or bother to find out what else is offered. However, reputable agencies will present you with all options. At the height of summer, when boats can be crowded, it’s best to buy tickets well in advance of your planned day of travel.

First-class accommodations are usually in roomy air-conditioned cabins. Second-class cabins are smaller and you may share with strangers. Tourist-class fare entitles you to a seat on the deck or in a lounge. (Tourists usually head for the deck, while Greeks stay inside and watch TV.) Hold onto your ticket; crews conduct ticket-control sweeps.

BY HYDROFOIL   Hydrofoils (often referred to as Flying Dolphins, or by Greeks as flying) are faster than ferries and their stops are much shorter. They have comfortable airline-style seats but are noisy and provide little or no view of the passing scenery. Though fares are higher than those in ferries, they can save quite a bit of time. However, hyrdofoils run notoriously late, so you may spend hours on a dock waiting for the boat to arrive and get to your destination later than you would have on a regular ferry.

Flying Dolphins operated by Blue Star Ferries (www.bluestarferries.com) sail to the Saronic Gulf islands and throughout the Sporades. There is also hydrofoil service from Rafina, on the east coast of Attika, and from Piraeus to several of the Cyclades islands.

By Train

Greek trains are generally slow but inexpensive and fairly pleasant. For information and tickets in Athens, visit the OSE office at 6 Sina (  210/362-1039), near Omonia Square (www.trainose.gr). Purchase your ticket and reserve a seat ahead of time, as a 50% surcharge is added to tickets purchased on the train, and some lines are packed, especially in summer. A first-class ticket may be worth the extra cost, as seats are more comfortable and less crowded. Trains leave from the Larissa station (Stathmos Larissis); to get there, take trolley no. 1 or 5 from Syntagma Square. A popular route operates between Athens and Corinth, handy for access to the Peloponnese; service operates about every half hour and the trip takes about an hour.

By Bus

Greece has an extensive long-distance bus service organized under KTEL, an association of regional operators with buses that leave from convenient central stations. Overall, long-distance bus travel is quite pleasant, and most coaches are equipped with Wi-Fi. For information about the long-distance-bus offices, contact the KTEL office in Athens (  210/880-8000). Note that KTEL does not have a unified online presence to supply timetables or sell tickets, but you’ll find a KTEL website, with schedules and ticketing options, for each island and region; you’ll find these in our listings.

In Athens, most buses heading to destinations within Attica leave from the Mavromateon terminal, north of the National Archaeological Museum. Most buses to Central Greece leave from 260 Liossion, often called Terminal B, 5km (3 miles) north of Omonia Square (take local bus no. 024 from Leoforos Amalias in front of the entrance to the National Garden and tell the driver your destination). Most buses to the Peloponnese, and to western and northern Greece, leave from the long-distance bus terminal at 100 Kifissou, often called Terminal A, 4km (21⁄2 miles) northeast of Omonia Square (to get to Terminal A, take local bus no. 051 from a stop 2 blocks west of Omonia, near the big church of Ayios Konstandinos, at Zinonos and Menandrou). Bus travel will be made easier in the mid-2020s, when a new central bus depot, with Metro connections, is slated to open in outlying Eleonas.

Express buses between major cities, usually air-conditioned, can be booked through travel agencies. Even express buses usually make frequent stops (including meal and toilet breaks).

Organized and guided bus tours are widely available from Athens. Some of them will pick you up at your hotel; ask the hotel staff or any travel agent in Athens. CHAT Tours is the oldest and probably most experienced provider of a wide selection of bus tours led by highly articulate guides. Almost any travel agent can book a CHAT tour, but if you want to deal with the company directly, contact them through their website, www.chat-tours.com.

Tips on Accommodations

Greece offers a full spectrum of accommodations, ranging from the extravagant to the basic, from massive, all-inclusive hotel complexes at beach resorts to a room in a private home. Government-issued ratings are indicated by a star system, from 1 to 5, but these are based more on facilities such as public areas, pools, and in-room amenities than on comfort, charm, or service.

Many major chains operate in Greece, alongside some Greek-owned groups, but most Greek hotels are independent lodgings run by hands-on owners. Greece has some of the most luxurious lodgings in the world, setting the gold standard with such amenities as private in-suite pools and gyms. At the other end of the scale are perfectly acceptable but modest lodgings. Especially in the countryside and on the islands, you will often encounter bathrooms that, while decently equipped, lack enclosed showers (a hose and a drain suffice). Whatever the level of luxury, however, standards of cleanliness are generally very high. Most rooms, even modest ones, offer air-conditioning in the hot season and heating in the colder months, as well as TVs and, often, small refrigerators. Private bathrooms are the norm, although these are sometimes accessed from a hallway or courtyard outside the room.

Note that a double room in Greece does not always mean a room with a double bed, but might be a room with twin beds. Double beds in Greece are called “matrimonial beds,” and rooms with such beds are often designated “honeymoon rooms.” A passport or other form of identification is usually required when registering in a hotel.

Hotels in Athens and especially on Santorini and Mykonos tend to be expensive, but in the countryside and on many islands, hotel rates in general are a relative bargain when compared to those elsewhere in Europe. Don’t be shy about bargaining, especially with expensive properties, whether it’s in an email, on the phone, or in person. Many hotels offer discounted rates for longer stays, for Internet bookings, advance payment, or payment in cash.

accommodation sources   You probably won’t get too far off an arriving ferry or bus before encountering someone offering a “room to rent.” This might be in a private home, a full-blown hotel dredging up clients, or in a purpose-built or refitted “room to rent” structure. The price is almost always on the low side. Accommodations are rarely luxurious, but they are often extremely comfortable and full of character and usually have private bathrooms and other amenities. The tout often comes equipped with photos or a printed pamphlet; aside from price, you should ask up front about location before following a stranger through the back streets. Inquire about terms of payment (usually cash only) and any amenities you require—terrace, view, inclusive breakfast, pool, whatever. Soliciting clients is honorable in Greece, and not a sign of desperation; in fact, finding a room in this way can ensure a nice bond with the proprietor.

Apartment and house rentals are common in Greece, with a wide-range of offerings from such sources as Airbnb (www.airbnb.com) and VRBO (www.vrbo.com). Yades Historic Hotels (www.yadeshotels.gr) represents stylish and distinctive hotels throughout Greece, with many excellent properties in the Peloponnese and on Santorini and Crete. True Trips (www.truetrips.com) also represents some especially distinctive hotels in Athens and on the islands.

Minding Your Local Manners

DRESS CODES   Most Greeks wear bathing suits only on the beach and do not go into restaurants, cafes, or shops without putting something over their skimpy garments. Also, many Greeks consider bare feet off the beach seriously odd and quite rude. Almost no Greek man would go into a church in shorts, and Greek women do not enter churches in sleeveless tops or shorts. Slacks for women are now acceptable almost everywhere, however, except in the most traditional churches and monasteries.

SAYING HELLO & GOODBYE   Few Greeks go into a bakery and say “Loaf of bread, please,” and then pay and leave. Almost all encounters begin with a greeting: “Kali mera” (Good day) is always acceptable, but on Monday, you’ll hear “Kali ebdomada” (Good week) and on the first of the month “Kalo mena” (Good month). Sprinkle your requests on how to find the Acropolis or where to buy a bus ticket with “Sas para kalo” (Excuse me, please) and “Eucharisto” (Thanks), and you’ll help make Greeks reconsider all those things they’ve come to believe about rude tourists. And on that topic, although most Greeks don’t mind having their photo taken, always ask first.

Tours/Special-Interest Trips

You can find a wide variety of tours, special-interest trips, classes, and workshops available when you travel to Greece, focusing on everything from antiquities to wine tasting. In addition, there are a number of organized possibilities for volunteerism, whether on excavations or on farms. Here are some suggestions.

Educational Trips

Archaeological Tours (www.archaeologicaltrs.com;  877/553-9998), offers tours led by expert guides; typical tours might be to classical Greek sites or to Cyprus, Crete, and Santorini. The Aegean Center for the Fine Arts (www.aegeancenter.org), based on the island of Paros, offers courses in painting, photography, music, creative writing, and modern Greek. Most of the students are college-age Americans. The American-run Island Center for the Arts conducts classes in painting, photography, and Greek culture on the island of Skopelos between June and September (www.islandcenter.org;  24240/24036). As the school is affiliated with the Massachusetts College of Art, some educational institutions grant credits for its courses.

The popular Road Scholar program (formerly Elderhostel; www.roadscholar.org;  800/454-5768) is a learning experience for adults (with some intergenerational programs) that offers a couple dozen trips to Greece and the surrounding area each year, ranging from cruises on smaller ships that explore the history and culture of the Aegean Islands, to overland road trips where participants explore the art, architecture, and archeology of the region.

Learning the Language

The Dartmouth College Rassias Center (www.rassias.dartmouth.edu) language program in modern Greek is a very popular 10-day total-immersion session that should have you arriving ready to amaze and delight Greeks with your command of their glorious and tricky language. This is the same method used to train Peace Corps volunteers. Classes are held in totally un-Greek surroundings, on the Dartmouth campus in Hanover, New Hampshire. In Greece, the Athens Centre, 48 Archimidou, Athens (athenscentre.gr), which has been around since 1969, offers modern Greek classes year-round, with 3-week language immersion courses. During the summer, the center also hosts 2-week workshops in painting, photography, poetry, and theater.

Adventure & Wellness Trips

Trekking Hellas (www.trekking.gr) offers white-water rafting excursions in the Peloponnese and northern Greece. Although plenty of beginners go on these trips, most foreign participants have had some rafting experience. Trekking Hellas also organizes hiking tours (see “Walking Tours,” p. 354). Backroads (www.backroads.com;  800/462-2848) leads multi-adventure tours in Santorini and Crete. SwimTrek (www.swimtrek.com;  877-455-7946) offers holidays that focus on coastal swims around Crete, the Sporades, the Cyclades, and the Ionians.

Eumelia (www.eumelia.com) hosts up 25 guests on its organic farm outside the hamlet of Gouves, in the Peloponnese south of Sparta, for workshops and seminars focusing on wine, gastronomy, and mind/body experiences. Limnisa (www.limnisa.com) offers silent retreats, writing retreats, and workshops by the sea near Methana, in the east Peloponnese, near the island of Poros. Skyros Center (www.skyros.com) offers yoga and holistic holidays (as well as writing holidays and singles holidays) on the island of Skyros.

Food & Wine Trips

If you’re heading for Santorini and want to learn about Greek cuisine, the island’s best restaurant, Selene (www.selene.gr), offers cooking classes with the most varied and fresh local ingredients each summer. Diane Kochilas (www.dianekochilas.com), a Greek-American expert on Greek foods, offers a variety of activities, including cooking classes in Athens and culinary tours in Athens or throughout Greece. Nikki Rose (www.cookingincrete.com), a Cretan-American professional chef, operates seminars on Crete that combine some travel with cooking lessons and investigations of Crete’s diet. Susanna Spiliopoulou of the excellent Hotel Pelops (www.hotelpelops.gr) in Olympia offers cooking workshops based on traditional recipes.

Guided Tours

Organized and guided bus tours focusing on the glories of ancient Greece are widely available. Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually includes hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation. Single travelers are usually hit with a “single supplement” to the base price for package vacations and cruises, while the price of a single room is almost always well over half that for a double.

CHAT Tours (www.chat-tours.gr), founded in 1953, is the oldest and most experienced provider of a wide selection of bus tours led by highly articulate guides. Be sure to ask how many will be on your tour, as a large group usually results in a more regimented and much less personal tour.

Fantasy Travel, 19 Filelinon (www.fantasytravel.gr;  210/331-0530), is another solid travel agency in Athens that offers tours. Another long-standing Greek tour organizer is Homeric Tours (www.homerictours.com;  800/223-5570). Such tours fall into the “moderate” category in pricing and accommodations; they’re especially handy for a quick visit to Delphi and some of the other archaeological sites around Athens (see chapter 5).

TrueTrips (www.truetrips.com;  800/817-7098 in North America or 210/612-0656 in Greece) escorts individuals and small groups on customized and more intimate tours to selected destinations.

If you’d like to take a day tour of Athens, or a week-long tour of Greece, that focuses on Greece’s Jewish heritage, check out www.jewishtours.gr.

Walking Tours

Trekking Hellas (www.trekkinghellas.gr), based in Athens at 10 Rethimnou, (  210/331-0323), is a well-known outfit offering guided hiking tours of the Greek mainland, Crete, and several Cycladic islands. If you don’t want to be with a group, but do want some pointers, Trekking Hellas will help you plan an itinerary and book you places to stay along the way. The Crete-based Happy Walker in Rethymnon (www.happywalker.com;  28310/52920) leads day hikes into the mountains and gorges of Western Crete, as well as multiday hikes on Crete and elsewhere in Greece.

GREECE

Area Codes   Area codes in Greece range from three digits in Athens (210) to as many as five digits in less populated locales. All numbers provided in the text start with the proper area code.

ATMs   In commercial centers, airports, all cities and larger towns, and most tourist centers, you will find at least a couple of machines accepting a wide range of cards. Smaller towns will often have only one ATM.

But for all the prevalence of ATMs, you should keep at least some actual cash on you for those occasions when all the ATMs you can locate are out of order or out of cash. Keep enough euros or your own currency to get you through at least 24 hours.

Note: Greek ATMs accept only a four-digit PIN—you must change yours before you go. And since Greek ATMs use only numeric PINs (personal identification numbers), before you set off for Greece be sure you know how to convert letters to numerals as the alphabet will be in Greek.

Three warnings About Debit & Credit Cards

As part of banks’ and credit card companies’ increasing concern about fraud, it is our experience that they are apt to deny your cards if you try to use them too far out of your normal circuit. It’s a wise idea to contact your cards’ customer service department by phone and tell them in advance which countries you plan to travel to.

Beware of hidden credit card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use their cards while out of the country. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

Business Hours   Greek business and office hours take some getting used to, especially in the afternoon, when most English-speaking people are accustomed to getting things done in high gear. Compounding the problem is that it is often nearly impossible to pin down precise hours of opening. We can start by saying that almost all stores and services are closed on Sunday—except, of course, tourist-oriented shops and services. Supermarkets, department stores, and chain stores are usually open 9am to 9pm, Monday through Saturday. On Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday, smaller retail shops’ hours are usually 9am to 3pm; Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday, it’s 9am to 2pm and 5 to 7pm. The afternoon siesta is generally observed from 3 to 5pm, though many tourist-oriented businesses have a minimal crew on duty during naptime, and they may keep extended hours, often from 8am to 10pm. (In fact, in tourist centers, shops may be open at all kinds of hours.) Call ahead to check the hours of businesses you must deal with, and try not to disturb Greek friends during siesta hours.

Most government offices are open Monday through Friday only, from 8am to 3pm. Banks are open to the public Monday through Thursday from 8am to 2:30pm, Friday from 8am to 2pm. Banks at a few locations may be open for some services such as foreign currency exchange into the evening and on Saturday. All banks are closed on the long list of Greek holidays (see p. 29).

Final advice: Anything you really need to accomplish in a government office should be done on weekdays between about 9am and 1pm.

Credit Cards   In Greece, Visa and MasterCard are the most widely accepted cards. Diners Club is less widely accepted; American Express is even less frequently accepted, because it charges a higher commission and is more protective of the cardholder in disagreements. Credit cards are accepted throughout Greece in better hotels and at most shops, but many restaurants even in major cities do not accept credit cards. Some hotels require a credit card number when you make advance reservations but will demand payment in cash; inquire beforehand if this will be the case. Many establishments, even better hotels, will offer you a discount if you pay in cash.

Customs   What you can bring into Greece: Passengers from North America arriving in Athens aboard international flights are generally not searched, and if you have nothing to declare, continue through the green lane. (Because of the continuing threat of terrorism, baggage is X-rayed before boarding domestic flights.) Citizens of the United States, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and other non-E.U. countries do face a few commonsensical restrictions. Clearly, no narcotics: Greece is very tough on drug users. No explosives or weapons—although upon application, a sportsman might be able to bring in a legitimate hunting weapon. Only medications for amounts properly prescribed for your own use are allowed. Plants with soil are not. Dogs and cats can be brought in, but they must have proof of recent rabies and other health shots.

What You Can Take Out of Greece (All Nationalities): Exportation of Greek antiquities is strictly protected by law. No antiquities may be taken out of Greece without prior special permission from the Archaeological Service, 3 Polignotou, Athens. Also, you must be able to explain how you acquired your purchase—in particular, icons or religious articles. A dealer or shopkeeper must provide you with an export certificate for any object dating from before 1830. In general, keep all receipts for major purchases in order to clear Customs on your return home.

For further information on what you’re allowed to bring into your country of residence, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (www.cbp.gov;  877/227-5511).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca;  800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500).

U.K. Citizens: HM Revenue & Customs (www.hmce.gov.uk;  0845/010-9000; from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152).

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service (www.customs.gov.au;  1300/363-263).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs (www.customs.govt.nz;  0800/428-786).

Doctors   Any foreign embassy or consulate can provide a list of area doctors who speak English. If in a town without these offices, ask your hotel management to recommend a local doctor—even his or her own.

Drinking Laws   The minimum age for being served alcohol in public is 18. Wine and beer are generally available in eating places, but not in all coffeehouses or dessert cafes. Alcoholic beverages are sold in food stores as well as liquor stores. Although a certain amount of high spirits is appreciated, Greeks do not appreciate public drunkenness. The resort centers where mobs of young foreigners party every night are tolerated as necessary for the tourist trade, but such behavior wins no respect for foreigners. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car and don’t even think about driving while intoxicated—offenders are often jailed and almost always fined heavily.

Electricity   Electric current in Greece is 220 volts AC, alternating at 50 cycles. (Some larger hotels have 110-volt low-wattage outlets for electric shavers, but they aren’t good for hair dryers and most other appliances.) Electrical outlets require Continental-type plugs with two round prongs. U.S. travelers will need an adapter plug. Laptop computer users will want to check their requirements; a transformer may be necessary, though many laptops function at 220 volts.

Embassies & Consulates   Foreign embassies in Athens include: Australia, Level 2, 5 Hatiyianni Mexi St., (www.greece.embassy.gov.au;  210/870-4000); Canada, 48 Ethnikis Antistaseos St. (www.greece.gc.ca;  210/727-3400); Ireland, 7 Vas. Konstantinou (www.dfa.ie/irish-embassy/greece;  210/723-2771); New Zealand, 76 Kifissias Ave, Ambelokipi (www.mfat.govt.nz;  210/692-4136); South Africa, 60 Kifissias, Maroussi (www.gov.za;  210/6178020); United Kingdom, 1 Ploutarchou (www.ukingreece.fco.gov.uk;  210/727-2600); United States, 91 Leoforos Vas, Sofias (gr.usembassy.gov;  210/721-2951). Be sure to phone ahead before you go to any embassy; most keep limited hours and are usually closed on their own holidays as well as Greek ones.

Emergencies   The national emergency number is 112. Contact the local police at  100. For fire, call  199. For medical emergencies and/or first aid and/or an ambulance, call  166. For hospitals, call  106. For automobile emergencies, put out a triangular danger sign and call  10400. Embassies, consulates, and many hotels can recommend an English-speaking doctor.

Health   If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor about your travel plans before your departure. If you have special concerns, before heading abroad you might check out the United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (www.cdc.gov/travel;  800/232-4636).

Travelers should check their health plans to see if they provide appropriate coverage; you may want to buy travel medical insurance. Bring your insurance ID card with you when you travel.

Drugstores/Chemists: These are called pharmikon in Greek; aside from the obvious indications in windows and interiors, they are identified by a green cross. For minor medical problems, go first to the nearest pharmacy. Pharmacists usually speak English, and many medications can be dispensed without prescription. In the larger cities, a sign in the window of a closed pharmacy will direct you to the nearest open one.

Common Ailments: Diarrhea is no more of a problem in Greece than it might be anytime you change diet and water supplies, but occasionally visitors do experience it. Common over-the-counter preventatives and cures are available in Greek pharmacies, but if you are concerned, bring your own. If you expect to be taking sea trips and are inclined to get seasick, bring a preventative. Allergy sufferers should carry antihistamines, especially in the spring.

Sun Exposure: Between mid-June and September, too much exposure to the sun during midday could well lead to sunstroke or heatstroke. High-SPF sunscreen and a hat are strongly advised. Stock up on sunscreen before setting out to the islands, where these products tend to be more expensive and choices are limited.

Hospitals   In Greece, modern hospitals, clinics, and pharmacies are found everywhere, and personnel, equipment, and supplies ensure excellent treatment. Dental care is also widely available. Most doctors in Greece speak English, and many have trained in the U.S. and U.K.

Emergency treatment is usually given free in state hospitals, but the care in outpatient clinics, which are usually open mornings (8am–noon), is often somewhat better. You can find them next to most major hospitals, on some islands, and occasionally in rural areas, usually indicated by prominent signs.

Internet & Wi-Fi   Internet connection with Wi-Fi is now available virtually anywhere a visitor is apt to be. Most bars have Wi-Fi, as do hotels and many public places.

Language   Language is usually not a problem for English speakers in Greece, as so many Greeks have studied English in school and find it necessary to use in their work worlds—most particularly, in the tourist realm that visitors encounter. Many Greeks have also lived abroad in places where English is the primary language. For better or worse, Greeks also learn English from Anglo American–dominated pop culture. Several television programs are broadcast in their original languages, and American prime-time soaps are very popular, nearly inescapable. Even advertisements have an increasingly high English content. Don’t let all this keep you from trying to pick up at least a few words of Greek; your efforts will be rewarded by your hosts, who realize how difficult their language is for foreigners and will patiently help you improve your pronunciation and usage. Meanwhile, see the “Useful Words & Phrases” at the end of this chapter.

Legal Aid   If you need legal assistance, contact your embassy or consulate. If these institutions cannot themselves be of help, they can direct you to local lawyers who speak English and are willing to assist you.

LGBT Travelers   Greece—or at least parts of it—has a long tradition of being tolerant of gay men, and in recent years these locales have extended this tolerance to lesbians. However, although Greeks in Athens, and perhaps a few other major cities, may not care one way or the other, Greeks in small towns and villages—indeed, most Greeks—do not appreciate flagrant displays of dress or behavior.

Among the best-known hangouts for gays and lesbians are Mykonos and Chania, Crete, but gays and lesbians travel all over Greece without any particular issues. The age of consent for sexual relations with homosexuals is 17, and this can be strictly enforced against foreigners.

Mail   The mail service of Greece is reliable—but slow. (Postcards usually arrive after you have returned.) You can receive mail addressed to you c/o Poste Restante, General Post Office, City (or Town), Island (or Province), Greece. You will need your passport to collect this mail. Many hotels will accept, hold, and even forward mail for you; ask first. For the fastest service, try FedEx or one of the other major private carriers; travel agencies can direct you to these.

Postage rates have been going up in Greece, as they are elsewhere. At press time, a postcard or a letter up to 20 grams (about .7 oz.) to foreign countries costs .90€; 21 to 50 grams (up to 1.75 oz.), 1.45€; 51 to 100 grams (3.5 oz.), 2€. Rates for packages depend on size as well as weight, but are reasonable. Note: Do not wrap or seal any package—you must be prepared to show the contents to a postal clerk. If you are concerned about some particular item, you might consider using one of the well-known international commercial delivery services. Your hotel or any travel agency can direct you to the nearest local office.

Medical Requirements   There are no immunization requirements for getting into Greece, though it’s always a good idea to have polio, tetanus, and typhoid covered when traveling anywhere. See “Health,” p. 356.

Mobile Phones   Before you spend too much time navigating the ins and outs of using your cell phone in Greece, note that most U.S. carriers offer some variation of what’s called Wi-Fi calling. As long as you have an Internet connection, you may usually call any U.S. number at no extra charge, making this an inexpensive option for keeping in touch with the folks back home (Canadian, U.K, and Australian providers offer similar plans for their customers). The drawbacks, however, are that you may not make calls if you do not have an internet connection, and you will be billed at international rates for any calls you make within Greece. Another option are the so-called travel passes available from most carriers are that allow you to use data and make unlimited calls for one set daily fee, usually about $10 a day. The pass is activated for 24 hours as soon as you take your phone out of airplane mode and use it. Check with your carrier to learn about the options available for international use.

An alternative if you intend to make many phone calls in Greece is to bring your unlocked cellphone to Greece and buy a SIM card in the national telephone office (OTE) center in major cities or a commercial phone store. These cards—actually a tiny chip inserted into your phone—cost about 20€ and include a Greek phone number and a number of prepaid minutes; when you have used up these minutes, you can purchase a phone card at a kiosk that gives you more minutes. Any calls you make outside of Greece with this system will be very expensive.

Renting a phone in Greece may also be a good idea. You can rent a phone from any number of places in Greece—including kiosks at major airports, OTE offices, and cellphone stores.

If you expect to be abroad for more than a brief time, however, and/or will be visiting more than one country, buying a phone can make economic sense. Numerous companies now sell phones with a SIM card included and with a U.S. or U.K. phone number assigned to it—so-called global roaming services that offer relatively cheap per-minute rates for both outgoing and incoming calls. You may buy a phone in Greece in either the national telephone office (OTE) in any decent-size city or a retail electronics store. Another option for renting or buying a Greece-compatible cell phone is www.cellularabroad.com. Also see “Telephones” below.

Money   The currency in Greece is the euro (pronounced evro in Greek), abbreviated “eu” and symbolized by €. (If you still own the old drachmas, it is no longer possible to exchange them.) The euro comes in seven paper notes and eight coins. The notes are in different sizes and colors, and come in the following denominations: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, and 500. (Considering that each euro is worth more than $1, those last bills are quite pricey!) Six of the coins are officially denominated in “cents”—e.g., one-hundredths of a euro—but in Greece the name for this is lepta, the old Greek name for sums smaller than the drachma. These smaller coins, which come in different sizes, are valued at 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, or 50 lepta. There are also 1€ and 2€ coins. Although one side of the coins differs in each of the member E.U. nations, all coins and bills are legal tender in all countries using the euro.

Warning: The 1€ and 2€ coins look similar to a 1-lira Turkish coin—worth less than half the 1€, so count your change carefully.

You may easily obtain euros at airport ATMs upon arrival, but you may want to exchange at least some money—enough to cover airport incidentals and transportation to your hotel—before you leave at an American Express office or at some banks (note, though, that you’ll pay fees and a higher exchange rate than you will with an ATM in Greece).

Frommer’s lists exact prices in the local currency (the euro). The conversion rate provided was correct at press time. However, rates fluctuate, so before you leave, check a website like www.xe.com online for the latest rates.

The Value of the Euro vs. Other Popular Currencies

Euro€

Aus$

Can$

NZ$

UK£

US$

1

A$1.63

C$1.45

NZ$1.74

£.87

$1.10

Costs   Greece is no longer the bargain it once was, though even Athens is still not in the category of London or New York or Paris or Tokyo. Even so, in Athens and on Santorini and Mykonos, prices at many hotels and upscale restaurants are comparable to those in most other developed countries. Admission to major museums and archaeological sites is comparable to fees in major European cities. But it is still possible to have a reasonably modest holiday in Greece. You can start by visiting outside the high season—July and August. Pick mid-price hotels and restaurants—and make sure breakfast is included in your hotel price. Look for deals on car rentals. Fly at off-peak times, and avoid expensive services such as spas or purchases such as jewelry.

Newspapers & Magazines   All cities, large towns, and major tourist centers have at least one shop or kiosk that carries a selection of foreign-language publications; most of these are flown or shipped in on the very day of publication. English-language readers have a wide selection, including most of the British papers (Daily Telegraph, Financial Times, Guardian, Independent, Times), the International Herald Tribune (with its English-language insert of the well-known Athens newspaper Kathimerini), and USA Today. Kathimerini, by the way, has an online English edition that is quite adequate for keeping up with Greek news (www.ekathimerini.com).

Packing   As most visitors to Greece tend to be there between the first of May and the end of September, light jackets and sweaters should suffice for any overcast days or cool evenings—unless, of course, you are planning to spend time in the mountains. Except for the really high-class hotels and resorts, casual dress is accepted in almost all restaurants and facilities. But Greeks remain uncomfortable with beachwear or too-casual garb in villages and cities. Females are expected—indeed, often required—to cover their arms and upper legs before entering monasteries and churches. Some priests and monks are stricter than others and may flatly bar men as well as women if they feel that the men are not dressed suitably.

Passports   For entry into Greece, citizens of non-E.U. countries are required to have a valid passport, which is stamped upon entry and exit, for stays up to 90 days.

Citizens of European Union countries are required to present a valid ID (driving licenses do not qualify) for entry into Greece; you may stay an unlimited period, although you should inquire about this at a Greek consulate or at your embassy in Greece. Children under 16 from E.U. countries may travel without an ID if accompanied by either parent. All E.U. citizens are reminded that they should check the requirements for non-E.U. countries through which you might travel to get to Greece.

For stays longer than 90 days, all non-E.U. citizens will require visas from the Greek embassies or consuls in their home countries. If already in Greece, arrangements must be made with the Bureau of Aliens, 173 Leoforos Alexandras, 11522 Athens (  210/770-5711).

Police   To report a crime or medical emergency, or for information or other assistance, first contact the tourist police (  171), where an English-speaking officer is more likely to be found. If there is no tourist police officer available, contact the local police at  100 or call the national emergency number, 112 (many operators speak English).

Note: The Greek authorities and laws are extremely tough when it comes to foreigners with drugs—starting with marijuana. Do not attempt to bring any illicit drug into or out of Greece.

Safety   Crime directed at tourists was traditionally unheard of in Greece, but in more recent years there are occasional reports of cars broken into, pickpockets, purse snatchers, and the like. Normal precautions are called for. For instance, keep an eye on hand luggage containing expensive items, whether jewelry or cameras. Lock the car and don’t leave cameras or other such gear visible. Don’t leave your luggage unattended, and it is probably safer not to leave valuables unattended at beaches. Young women should observe the obvious precautions in dealing with men in isolated locales.

High among potential dangers are automobile accidents: Greece has one of the worst vehicle accident rates in Europe. You should exercise great caution when driving over unfamiliar, often winding, and often poorly maintained roads. This holds true especially when you’re driving at night. As for those who insist on renting motorbikes or similar vehicles, at the very least wear a helmet.

Senior Travel   Greece does not offer too many discounts for seniors. Some museums and archaeological sites offer discounts for those 60 and over, but the practice is unpredictable, and in almost all instances the discount is restricted to citizens of an E.U. nation.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Road Scholar (formerly Elderhostel; www.roadscholar.org;  800/454-5768) arranges study programs for those ages 55 and over (and a spouse or companion of any age). In Greece, groups typically settle in one area for a week or two, with excursions that focus on getting to know the history and culture. Canada-based ElderTreks (www.eldertreks.com;  800/741-7956) offers small-group tours to off-the-beaten-path or adventure-travel locations, restricted to travelers 50 and older. Britons might prefer to deal with Saga Holidays (Saga Building, Folkestone, Kent CT20 1AZ; www.saga.co.uk;  800/096-7242 in the U.S. and Canada, or 0808/274-4408 in the U.K.), which offers all-inclusive tours in Greece for those ages 50 and older.

Single Travelers   Single travelers are usually hit with a “single supplement” to the base price for package vacations and cruises, while the price of a single room is almost always well over half of that for a double. Many reputable tour companies offer singles-only trips, however. Singles Travel International (www.singlestravelintl.com;  877/765-6874) offers escorted tours to places like the Greek Islands. Backroads (www.backroads.com;  800/462-2848) offers “Couples, Friends & Solos” active-travel trips to destinations worldwide.

Smoking   In recent years the Greeks have imposed no-smoking regulations on airplanes, on areas of ships, and all public locations (banks, post offices, and so on). Small restaurants, tavernas, and cafes must declare whether they allow smoking or not; larger establishments are supposed to set aside smoking areas. But Greeks continue to be among the world’s most persistent smokers and, except on airplanes, many Greeks—and some foreigners—feel free to puff away at will. Hotels are only beginning to claim that they have set aside rooms or even floors for nonsmokers, so ask about them, if it matters to you. If you are really bothered by smoke while eating, about all you can do is position yourself as best as possible—and then be prepared to leave if it gets really bad.

Student Travel   In Greece, students with proper identification are given reduced entrance fees to archaeological sites and museums, as well as discounts on admission to most artistic events, theatrical performances, and festivals. So if you’re eligible, you’d be wise to arm yourself with an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which offers substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, and entrance fees. It also provides you with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is available for $20 from STA Travel (www.statravel.com;  800/781-4040), the biggest student travel agency in the world. If you’re no longer a student but are still under 31, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from STA Travel or the ISIC Association (www.isic.org), which entitles you to some discounts.

The World Youth Student and Educational (WYSE) Travel Confederation (www.wysetc.org) has a history going back to 1949 to make travel around the world more affordable for students. Check out its website for comprehensive travel services information for students. Travel CUTS (www.travelcuts.com;  800/667-2887) offers similar services. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (www.usit.ie;  01/602-1906), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

A Hostelling International membership (www.hihostels.com) can save students money in some 5,000 HI hostels in 70 countries (including Greece), where sex-segregated, dormitory-style sleeping quarters cost about $15 to $35 per night.

Taxes & Service Charges   The Value Added Tax (VAT) has in response to Greece’s economic crisis been greatly increased—it now stands at 23% for many purchases and services, including restaurants and car rentals; food and medicine and certain other “vital goods” tend to have a VAT of 11% while books and newspapers have 5.5%. You may sometimes be given a printed receipt that shows these percentages, but the point to realize is that the taxes have already been included in the price quoted and charged. In addition to the VAT, hotel prices usually include a service charge of up to 12% and a “community tax,” about 4% to 5%. (By the way, don’t confuse any of these charges with many restaurants’ “cover charge” that may be .50€–2€ per place setting.) Also see “Tipping,” p. 362.

If you have purchased an item that costs 120€ or more and are a citizen of a non–European Union nation, you can get most of the VAT refunded (provided you export it within 90 days of purchase). It’s easiest to shop at stores that display the sign “Tax-Free for Tourists.” However, any store should be able to provide you with a Tax-Free Check Form, which you complete in the store. If you use your charge card, the receipt will list the VAT separately from the cost of the item. As you are leaving the country, present a copy of this form to the refund desk (usually at the Customs office). Be prepared to show both the goods and the receipt as proof of purchase. The amount will be credited to your charge card or a check will be mailed to you.

Telephones   Public phones take prepaid phone cards, available at OTE offices or at most kiosks. The cards come in various denominations, from 3€ to 25€.

To Call Greece from the United States, Canada, U.K., Australia, or New Zealand:

1.Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S or Canada; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia

2.Dial the country code: 30

3.Dial the city code (three to five digits) and then the number. Note: All numbers in Greece must have 10 digits, including the city code.

To Make International Calls from Within Greece: Dial the country code plus the area code (omitting the initial zero, if any), then dial the number. Some country codes are: Australia, 0061; Canada, 001; Ireland, 00353; New Zealand, 0064; United Kingdom, 0044; and United States, 001. Thus, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 001-202-588-7800.

Time   The European 24-hour clock is used to measure time, so on schedules you’ll see noon as 1200, 3:30pm as 1530, and 11pm as 2300. In informal conversation, however, Greeks express time much as we do—though noon may mean anywhere from noon to 3pm, afternoon is 3 to 7pm, and evening is 7pm to midnight.

Greece is 2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. In reference to North American time zones, it’s 7 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time, 8 hours ahead of Central Standard Time, 9 hours ahead of Mountain Standard Time, and 10 hours ahead of Pacific Standard Time. Note that Greece does observe daylight saving time, although it may not start and stop on the same days as in North America.

Tipping   Restaurant bills include a service charge, yet it is customary to leave a tip. Good service merits a tip of 5% to 10%, or round up, so 17€, say, becomes 20€. Greeks rarely tip taxi drivers, but tourists are expected to, at least by rounding cents up to a full euro figure. Hotel chambermaids should be left about 2€ per night per couple. Bellhops should be tipped 1€ per bag.

Toilets   Most Greek establishments—hotels, restaurants, museums, and so on—provide clean and well-equipped facilities, but often in Athens and almost always on the islands, you may be asked to deposit toilet paper in a container beside the toilet. In cheaper and more remote restaurants, you may find that there is no water at the hand bowl or a shortage of toilet paper; you might consider carrying some tissues with you. Many toilets do not have seats.

Public restrooms are generally available in any good-size Greek town, though they are sometimes rather crude. (Old-fashioned stand-up/squat facilities are still found.) If there is an attendant, you are expected to leave a small tip, or you may be asked to pay a fee, often .50€. In an emergency, you may ask to use the facilities of a restaurant or shop; if you do so, it’s respectful to buy something.

Travelers with Disabilities   Few concessions exist for travelers with disabilities in Greece. Steep steps, uneven pavements, almost no cuts at curbstones, few ramps, narrow walks, slick stone, and traffic congestion create obstacles. The stepped streets of Santorini and other islands are especially difficult to navigate, as are archaeological sites, by their very nature. An elevator takes individuals in wheelchairs to the top of the Acropolis; but even this requires that the wheelchair be pushed up a lengthy path.

The Athens airport and metro system are wheelchair accessible, however, and more modern and private facilities are beginning to provide ramps. Increasingly, hotels are setting aside rooms that they advertise as “disability-friendly” or “handicap accessible,” although that may mean nothing more than handrails in the bathtub. Nonetheless, foreigners in wheelchairs—accompanied by companions—are becoming a more common sight in Greece. Several travel agencies now offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities; one is the British-based Makin’ Tracks (www.makintracks.eu). A number of agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them is Accessible Journeys (www.disabilitytravel.com;  800/846-4537).

Visitor Information   The Greek National Tourism Organization (GNTO or EOT in Greece—and increasingly referred to as the Hellenic Tourism Organization) has offices throughout the world that can provide you with information concerning all aspects of travel to and in Greece. Look for them at www.gnto.gr.

Among the sites we’ve used for broad-based searches on Greece are:

www.mfa.gr (official Greek matters)

www.gtp.gr (ship and air travel in Greece)

www.ferryhopper.com (ship travel in Greece)

www.phantis.com (current news about Greece)

www.culture.gr (official site for Greek’s cultural attractions)

www.perseus.tufts.edu (classical Greek texts)

Water   The public drinking water in Greece is safe to drink, although it can be slightly brackish in some locales near the sea. For that reason, many people prefer the bottled water available at restaurants, hotels, cafes, food stores, and kiosks. If you do order bottled water, you will have to choose between natural or carbonated (metalliko), and domestic or imported.

Women Travelers   Young women—especially singles or small groups—may well find Greek males coming on to them, particularly at beaches, clubs, and other tourist locales, in a rather forward manner. But our informants tell us that, in general, Greek males (a) do not attempt any physical contact; and (b) sooner or later respect “No.” One tactic said to work for women is to say, “I’m a Greek-American.” The other advice is never to leave well-attended locales with someone you don’t really know. Women should also be aware that some cafes and even restaurants are effectively male-only haunts; men will not appreciate attempts by foreign women to enter these places.

Useful Words & Phrases

When you’re asking for or about something and have to rely on single words or short phrases, it’s an excellent idea to use “sas parakaló,” meaning “please” or “you’re welcome” to introduce or conclude almost anything you say.

English

Greek

Airport

Aerothrómio

Automobile

Aftokínito

Avenue

Leofóros

Bad

Kakós, -kí, -kó*

Bank

Trápeza

Breakfast

Proinó

Bus

Leoforío

Can you tell me?

Boríte ná moú píte?

Cheap

Ft(h)inó

Church

Ekklissía

Closed

Klistós, stí, stó*

Coffeehouse

Kafenío

Cold

Kríos, -a, -o*

Dinner

Vrathinó

Do you speak English?

Miláte Angliká?

Excuse me.

Signómi(n).

Expensive

Akrivós, -í, -ó*

Farewell!

Stóka-ló! (to person leaving)

Glad to meet you.

Chéro polí.**

Good

Kalós, lí, ló*

Goodbye.

Adío or chérete.**

Good evening.

Kalispéra.

Good health (cheers)!

Stín (i)yá sas or Yá-mas!

Good morning or Good day.

Kaliméra.

Good night.

Kaliníchta.**

Hello!

Yássas or chérete!**

Here

Ethó

Hot

Zestós, -stí, -stó*

Hotel

Xenothochío**

How are you?

Tí kánete or Pós íst(h)e?

How far?

Pósso makriá?

How long?

Póssi óra or Pósso(n) keró?

How much does it cost?

Póso káni?

I am a vegetarian.

Íme hortophágos.

I am from New York.

Íme apótí(n) Néa(n) Iórki.

I am lost or I have lost the way.

Écho chathí or Écho chási tón drómo(n).**

I’m sorry.

Singnómi.

I’m sorry, but I don’t speak Greek (well).

Lipoúme, allá thén miláo elliniká (kalá).

I don’t understand.

Thén katalavéno.

I don’t understand, please repeat it.

Thén katalavéno, péste to páli, sás parakaló.

It’s (not) all right.

(Dén) íne en dáxi.

I want a glass of beer.

Thélo éna potíri bíra.

I want to go to the airport.

Thélo ná páo stóaerothrómio.

I would like a room.

Tha íthela ena thomátio.

Left (direction)

Aristerá

Lunch

Messimerianó

Map

Chártis**

Market (place)

Agorá

Mr.

Kírios

Mrs.

Kiría

My name is . . .

Onomázome . . .

New

Kenoúryos, -ya, -yo*

No

Óchi**

Old

Paleós, -leá, -leó* (pronounce palyós, -lyá, -lyó)

Open

Anichtós, -chtí, -chtó*

Patisserie

Zacharoplastío**

Pharmacy

Pharmakío

Please or You’re welcome.

Parakaló.

Please call a taxi (for me).

Parakaló, fonáxte éna taxi (yá ména).

Point out to me, please . . .

Thíkste mou, sas parakaló . . .

Post office

Tachidromío**

Restaurant

Estiatório

Restroom

Tóméros or I toualétta

Right (direction)

Dexiá

Saint

Áyios, ayía, (plural) áyi-i (abbreviated ay)

Show me on the map.

Díxte mou stó(n) chárti.**

Square

Plateia

Station (bus, train)

Stathmos (leoforíou, trénou)

Stop (bus)

Stási(s) (leoforíou)

Street

Odós

Thank you (very much).

Efcharistó(polí).**

Today

Símera

Tomorrow

Ávrio

Very nice

Polí oréos, -a, -o*

Very well

Polí kalá or En dáxi

What?

Tí?

What’s your name?

Pós onomázest(h)e?

What time is it?

Tí ôra íne?

Where am I?

Pou íme?

Where is . . . ?

Poú íne . . . ?

Why?

Yatí?

*Masculine ending -os, feminine ending -a or -i, neuter ending -o.

**Remember, ch should be pronounced as in Scottish loch or German ich, not as in the word church.

Numbers

English

Greek

0

Midén

1

Éna

2

Dío

3

Tría

4

Téssera

5

Pénde

6

Éxi

7

Eftá

8

Októ

9

Enyá

10

Déka

11

Éndeka

12

Dódeka

13

Dekatría

14

Dekatéssera

15

Dekapénde

16

Dekaéxi

17

Dekaeftá

18

Dekaoktó

19

Dekaenyá

20

Íkossi

21

Íkossi éna

22

Íkossi dío

30

Triánda

40

Saránda

50

Penínda

60

Exínda

70

Evdomínda

80

Ogdónda

90

Enenínda

100

Ekató(n)

101

Ekatón éna

102

Ekatón dío

150

Ekatón penínda

151

Ekatón penínda éna

152

Ekatón penínda dío

200

Diakóssya

300

Triakóssya

400

Tetrakóssya

500

Pendakóssya

600

Exakóssya

700

Eftakóssya

800

Oktakóssya

900

Enyakóssya

1,000

Chílya*

2,000

Dío chilyádes*

3,000

Trís chilyádes*

4,000

Tésseris chilyádes*

5,000

Pénde chilyádes*

*Remember, ch should be pronounced as in Scottish loch or German ich, not as in the word church.

Days of the Week

English

Greek

Monday

Deftéra

Tuesday

Tríti

Wednesday

Tetárti

Thursday

Pémpti

Friday

Paraskeví

Saturday

Sávvato

Sunday

Kiriakí

Some Common Menu Items

Below are translations of several words you’ll see while ordering from Greek menus. Kali orexi—bon appétit!

English

Greek

Arní

Lamb

Brizóla

Steak

Gigandes

Giant beans

Horiátiki

Greek salad

Kafe

Coffee

Keftedes

Meatballs

Kotópoulo

Chicken

Meli

Honey

Mezedes

Appetizers or small dishes, like tapas

Moussaka

Eggplant casserole with béchamel sauce

Nehro

Water

Octapódi

Octopus

Spanakopita

Spinach pie

Stifad

A stew of meat, tomatoes, onions, and herbs

Tsáee

Tea

Tzatziki

A sauce of yogurt, cucumbers, and garlic

Yiaoúrti

Yogurt