It seems that every pub, bench and bridge in London has a tale to tell of past literary greats mulling over their troubles, weeping over lovers lost or launching themselves into the Thames. Ours is a city saturated in literary history and literature-lovers, with an abundance of bookshops and diversity of readers. While so many other retailers are homogenising, our independent bookshops—with their knowledgeable staffs and their often narrow focus—remain as eclectic and enthusiastic as ever. As well as a great selection of specialist independent stores, London is also home to dozens of second-hand bookshops, book markets, a literature festival, a major international book trade fair, and Europe’s largest bookshop.
The Foyles flagship store on Charing Cross Road (Map 12) is a London institution, with a history as eccentric as its stock. Along with mainstream books and best-sellers, it offers a good range of second hand and out-of-print books, as well as a specialist Antiquarian department and a chilled jazz café. Venerable Hatchard’s (Map 10) has been hawking books for over 200 years, making it London’s oldest bookstore. The London Review Bookshop (Map 4) offers a huge range of constantly updated books with an intellectual bent and intellectual staff. Metropolitan Books (Map 6) is small but perfectly stocked, and Phil the owner makes time for any customer seeking advice or a friendly chat. Kids can find a bookshop wonderland in Tales on Moon Lane (Map 128) while parents can find the books they grew up with at Ripping Yarns (Map 51). The excellence of the independent stores has meant the chains have had to up their game—and loath though we are to say it, some, such as academic specialists Blackwells (Maps 4, 12 & 74) has gotten it very right indeed. In particular, Waterstone’s in Piccadilly (Map 23) attracts all sorts of excitable superlatives, being the largest bookshop in Europe, running a range of literary activities to complement their stock, and even hosting a bar with some of the finest views of London.
Sadly, the world-renowned status Charing Cross Road used to command as the Mecca of second-hand bookstores is fading, and those who go looking for the genteel expertise immortalised in Helene Hanff’s bestseller 84 Charing Cross Road will find a “Med Kitchen” (shudder) at number 84. Many shops still cling to their ideals however, such as Any Amount of Books (Map 12) selling titles from as little £1 and offering a leather-binding service so your books can furnish your room as well as your mind. Good places to start if you are scouting for quality second-hand bookshops are: the tardis-like The Bookshop (Map 129) staffed by bookworms who have read everything (or so it seems) and can always help you find a gem; John Sandoe (Map 46) for true bookshop charm (rickety staircases, passionate staff, enchanting atmosphere); and the Trinity Hospice (Map 136) and Oxfam Bookshops (Maps 38, 51, 86)—not only an astonishingly cheap and broad collection of works, but all for charidee.
Finding a bookshop devoted to your passion is like finding a club of old friends, and London caters for all tastes. Bored of cheese toasties? Books for Cooks (Map 29) smells as good as the recipes look, as they’re tested in their kitchen first, while in-store cooking workshops teach new skills to avid customers. Sci-Fi nerds will be in their element at Forbidden Planet (Map 179). Gekoski (Map 4) stocks a good range of modern first editions, or for older and rarer first editions try Henry Sotheran (Map 10): a unique, but pricey, treat for any enthusiast. Head to Atlantis (Map 4) for all your occult needs (though no doubt the Spirits had already tipped you off on that one). Arty types are extensively catered for: The Photographers’ Gallery (Map 3), a treat in itself, has a substantial shop stocking photography titles, artists’ monographs and unusual cameras; the ICA Bookshop (Map 23) is a great destination for art and film fans, and you can take in an exhibition while you’re there; Travis & Emery (Map 24) stocks a vast range of music books and scores; comic geeks can get their fix at Gosh! (Map 4). And for those with a passion for passion, pop along to the book section of Coco de Mer (Map 13). Head to Artwords (Map 84) for books on—nope, I’ll see if you can guess. Or to Chappell (Map 11) to supplement your Abba Hits keyboard book with some of their 50,000 music titles. Motor Books (Map 24), surprisingly London’s only shop dedicated to motoring, rail, aviation and military books, is the ideal repository for your menfolk when you need some peace.
Feeling lethargic? Head to one of the city’s superb travel bookshops to have your energy restored. Stanford’s (Map 13) has been inspiring London for 150 years, with its enormous collection of travel books and maps. A bookshop for travellers who like to read, Daunt Books (Maps 2, 28, 57 & 67) arranges all its books by geographical location, so even its fiction, cookbooks and history are shelved by country. Or to learn any of over 150 languages, head to Grant & Cutler (Map 10), the UK’s largest foreign-language specialist.
Bookmarks (Map 4) stocks left-leaning works on a huge range of issues and takes a lively role in political activism, giving it a real and infectious sense of purpose. Also hugely right-on, both representing and driving several lefty social movements, is Housmans (Map 78). Or for a more balanced approach with political works across the parties and even the odd Minister browsing for ideas, try Westminster Bookshop (Map 22).
Publishing is a cut-throat business, and many writers have to sell their soul to get noticed. For them, it means an endless round of book signings and talks; for us, it means a fabulous chance to hobnob with our favourite authors. Most bookshops host occasional signings, but for regular events from the most celebrated authors, the big boys predictably have all the clout. Foyles (Maps 12, 33, 78, 104) and Waterstone’s (see p.489) attract huge names: recent guests have included JK Rowling, Louis de Bernières, Salman Rushdie and AS Byatt. Stanford’s (Map 13) offers opportunities to hear well-known travel editors, writers and photographers for an inspirational and sometimes career-changing evening. For intellectually stimulating debates and literary discussions, check out the London Review Bookshop (Map 4) and Bookmarks (Map 4). Some events are free, some as much as a theatre ticket, but all should be booked in advance to ensure a place.
