Before, during, and after the cooking process, the addition of other flavors can really elevate your food. Rubs can bring sweet or salty elements, which in turn can contrast with or complement your protein. A great example is a rich, buttery cut of whitefish. Adding a salty and savory rub will contrast with the natural sweetness and bring out added flavor.
Our approach is to allow the authenticity and simplicity of flavors to shine. The addition of a rub or condiment should simply enhance, not drown, what the underlying food really offers—much like our philosophy of smoke as an ingredient. The main star is always the protein, vegetable, or fruit that is being cooked over wood fire.
We also hope that you take these concepts and experiment to find your own favorite flavors. It’s actually very easy to do.
Salt is a great example. No matter how much we love a certain ratio of salt, some people will feel we oversalt, and others will feel we don’t use enough. The Goldilocks of salt comes down to your palate. Sure, there is a science to salt in brines as an example. That said, your journey through fire and wine comes down to what you like. So always feel free to adjust after you have tried these recipes and adapt them to your personal preferences.
This is a great all-purpose rub for pork and smoked poultry. It starts with a generous amount of brown sugar, which is balanced out with some savory and a hint of spice. Since this rub contains sugar, you won’t want to use this with high-heat grilling because it runs the potential to burn. In high-heat scenarios, go with the Beef Rub or the Savory Rub (opposite page).
MAKES 1½ CUPS DRY RUB
1 cup dark brown sugar
¼ cup kosher salt
2 tablespoons smoked paprika
2 tablespoons coarse ground black pepper
1 tablespoon granulated garlic
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
In a small bowl, combine all of the ingredients. Store in an airtight container for up to 6 months.
A great all-purpose poultry rub, from chicken to turkey to duck, this also works well on some pork dishes, such as roasts. With a much lighter sugar quantity than the Sweet Rub (above), it tends to do well over direct heat in addition to smoking low.
MAKES 1½ CUPS DRY RUB
½ cup dark brown sugar
¼ cup kosher salt
¼ cup coarse ground black pepper
¼ cup paprika
2 tablespoons granulated garlic
1 tablespoon dried sage
1 tablespoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon dried cayenne pepper
In a small bowl, combine all of the ingredients. Store in an airtight container for up to 6 months.
For big and bold beef flavors, we like to keep it simple when seasoning the king of meats. This rub is also great for big, rich veggies like portobello mushrooms.
MAKES 2 CUPS DRY RUB
⅔ cup kosher salt
⅔ cup coarse ground pepper
⅔ cup granulated garlic
2 teaspoons paprika
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
In a small bowl, combine all of the ingredients. Store in an airtight container for up to 6 months.
This is our go-to rub for a lot of direct grilling. With no sugar and a slight herbal finish, it is great for grilling fish, veggies, game meat, and lamb.
MAKES JUST OVER 2 CUPS DRY RUB
1 cup kosher salt
⅓ cup paprika
⅓ cup coarse black pepper
⅓ cup granulated garlic
2 tablespoons dried rosemary, ground in a pestle or crushed by hand
2 teaspoons ground thyme
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
In a small bowl, combine all of the ingredients. Store in an airtight container for up to 6 months.
Our Honey Gold Sauce is influenced by the Carolinas. The spicy vinegar flavor and Dijon tang complement most pork and fish recipes with the slight sweet added by the honey and sugar.
MAKES 2⅔ CUPS SAUCE
2 cups apple cider vinegar
⅓ cup Dijon mustard
¼ cup hot sauce
¼ cup dark brown sugar
¼ cup honey
1 tablespoon whole peppercorns
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine all of the ingredients. While stirring, bring to a simmer, about 1 to 2 minutes, then reduce the heat to low. Continue cooking at a low simmer, stirring slowly, for another 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and strain the liquid. Allow to cool, discard the solids, and pour into an airtight jar. Refrigerate overnight. Shake before using. The sauce will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.
One of our first catering events took place at Phelps Creek Vineyards in Hood River, Oregon, for an annual summer wine club event. We made pulled pork sandwiches with an original BBQ sauce. Knowing that Phelps Creek wines are light and elegant, we didn’t want a rich, sweet, or spicy BBQ sauce interfering with the delicate nature of its pinot noirs. A traditional Kansas City–style BBQ sauce full of sweet tomatoes and heat would have overpowered these beautiful wines. So we decided to use pinot noir in the sauce and decrease the intensity by limiting the bolder spices. It was such a hit that this sauce became our favorite for most Oregon winery events.
MAKES 1½ CUPS SAUCE
1 tablespoon olive oil
⅓ cup chopped shallots or red onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon chili powder
½ teaspoon dry mustard
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 cup pinot noir or other light-bodied red wine such as gamay or grenache
1 cup ketchup
In a medium saucepan over medium heat, heat the oil and then add the shallots. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the shallots are translucent, about 5 minutes. Turn down the heat if you see browning. Add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the chili powder, mustard, and cayenne, and stir constantly for 1 minute.
Add the pinot noir and turn the heat to high. Bring the wine to a boil and then reduce the heat to simmer for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally until reduced by about one-fourth to one-third to concentrate the flavor. Add the ketchup and bring back to a simmer, stirring, for about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, allow to cool, and pour into an airtight container. Refrigerate overnight. Shake before using. The sauce will keep in the refrigerator for several weeks. It will thicken when chilled. To thin it out, add 1 tablespoon water at a time and stir until the desired thickness.
Variation
The Pinot Noir BBQ Sauce is intended to be served with a mild wine. However, if you want more boldness and depth add these ingredients to your sauce for a more savory and hot variation.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS SAUCE
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
Just after adding the ketchup, add the brown sugar, Dijon, Worcestershire sauce, and vinegar. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 8 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove from the heat, allow to cool, and pour into an airtight container. Refrigerate overnight. Shake before using.
This is where Sean’s allegiance to sauces began. The Carolinas have a great tangy vinegar sauce that is simply prepared and is terrific for dipping or mopping your meat. It has a peppery finish and a lot of acidity, and it actually pairs really well with wine. This is a great sauce to use on pork.
MAKES 2½ CUPS SAUCE
2 cups apple cider vinegar
½ cup ketchup
¼ cup hot sauce
¼ cup turbinado sugar
2 tablespoons whole black peppercorns
1 tablespoon red chili pepper flakes
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine all of the ingredients. While stirring, bring to a simmer, about 5 minutes, then reduce the heat to low. Continue cooking at a low simmer, stirring frequently, for another 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and strain the liquid. Allow to cool, discard the solids, and pour into an airtight jar. Refrigerate overnight. Shake before using. The sauce will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.
We were influenced early on by the Carolinas and vinegar-based sauces. The acidity balances well with wine and adds great flavor to food. Living in the Pacific Northwest, we combine vinegar sauce with berries and fruits that are prevalent everywhere, including wild blackberries, blueberries, cherries, and apples. The fruit element can be fresh during the season, or we may add a jam component during the winter and early spring months. Plus, we add wine, because wine is also bountiful here.
We define sauces broadly to include any condiment added to meat. This can include aioli, mayonnaise, beurre blanc, relishes, and even dried additions like savory granola. Our philosophy is the meat is the star, and the sauce is along for the show, with the wine complementing both.
A spritz is great for adding flavor to meats cooked low and slow. It’s not as intense as a marinade, but it adds moisture to the cooking, as well as more depth of flavor.
MAKES 3½ CUPS SPRITZ
2 cups beef stock
1½ cups merlot or other full-bodied bold red wine
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped shallots, or 1 small shallot
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
1½ teaspoons red chili pepper flakes
1 teaspoon kosher salt
In a medium saucepan over low to medium-low heat, combine all of the ingredients. Let simmer (but not come to a boil) for 30 minutes, uncovered. Do not simmer for more than 1 hour to avoid it reducing. Remove from the heat and strain the liquids. Discard the solids. Cool in the refrigerator.
Pour the spritz into a food-safe spray bottle. The spritz can be used right away or made the day before using. It will keep in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
A glaze is a great way to finish any meat, generally applied just as cooking nears completion. This glaze brings sweet and savory with a touch of bourbon and is very versatile. You can use it on almost any protein, and it holds up to wine. The bourbon cooks down while still highlighting the caramel and bourbon characteristic. The chipotle pepper, from a small can of chipotle in adobo sauce, adds great smoke and heat to the sauce, which is balanced by the sweet cherry jam.
MAKES JUST OVER 2 CUPS GLAZE
1½ teaspoons olive oil
¼ cup finely diced red onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup ketchup
¼ cup apple cider vinegar
¼ cup bourbon
¼ cup cherry jam
1 tablespoon blackstrap molasses
1 tablespoon dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon chopped chipotle pepper in adobo
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
In a medium saucepan over medium heat, heat the oil. Add the onions and sauté for 5 minutes, or until translucent but not caramelized. Reduce the heat if you see any browning. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute until soft.
Add the ketchup, vinegar, bourbon, jam, molasses, brown sugar, chipotle, salt, and cayenne, and bring to a simmer for 10 minutes. Cover because it will splatter. Remove from the heat, allow to cool, then transfer to an airtight jar and refrigerate. It will keep for up to 1 week.
Mastering an aioli will serve you well in so many ways. Once you have the basics down, you can add whatever you want to flavor it. Try adding your favorite dry rub or, for some heat, cayenne or dried chipotle seasoning one teaspoon at a time. Or for something fun, fold in one tablespoon BBQ sauce.
We cook almost exclusively with olive oil, but for an aioli, 100 percent olive oil can be a bit too intense. So, we cut it in half by using a neutral oil like avocado or grapeseed (vegetable oil works fine too).
MAKES 1 CUP AIOLI
1 large clove garlic
¼ teaspoon plus ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
1 egg yolk
1 tablespoon fresh squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
½ cup avocado oil or other neutral-flavored oil
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Using a large knife, mince the garlic and ⅛ teaspoon of the salt into a paste.
In a medium bowl, combine the garlic paste, egg yolk, lemon juice, Dijon, and vinegar. Whisk quickly for at least 30 seconds. Combine the two kinds of oil, then very slowly add a small amount of the oil mixture to the garlic mixture while continuing to whisk vigorously. Gradually add the rest of the oil in a very slow and thin stream, whisking, until the aioli thickens. The whole process should take 4 to 5 minutes, and the end result should look pale yellow and thick. Stir in the remaining ¼ teaspoon of the salt, cayenne, and any additional dry seasonings of your preference.
Cover and chill in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
Variation
To make the Avocado Aioli (for the Grilled Sausage Endive Cups, this page), smash 1 ripe avocado in a separate bowl into a creamy consistency, then gently fold into one batch of aioli.