Tacos y Acompañamientos (Tacos and Accompaniments)

CRISPY TACO SHELLS

CORN TORTILLAS

PUFFY TACO SHELLS

FLOUR TORTILLAS

BEEF PICADILLO

BRAISED BEEF BARBACOA

CARNITAS

CARNE GUISADA

POLLO CON MOLE

MOLE POBLANO SAUCE

THE WIDE WORLD OF SALSA:

AVOCADO CREMA | PICO DE GALLO | COWBOY GRINGO TABLE HOT SAUCE | ROASTED TOMATO SALSA | SALSA MACHA | SALSA VERDE | SUPER-SPICY “STAFF ONLY” SALSA | TOMATILLO CRUDO

are really just the classic crispy beef taco a U-shaped fried corn shell stuffed with a spicy ground beef filling and topped with shredded lettuce, cheese, and diced tomatoes. Once fajitas became popular in the 1980s, a lot of restaurants began offering fajita tacos—both beef and chicken, aka tacos al carbón. But Tex-Mex menus have broadly expanded in the past fifteen years. Though you still find your classic crispy beef tacos, now you can choose from a wider range of options, including flour or corn tortillas and fillings such as carnitas, grilled fish, carne asada, and barbacoa—all of which are traditional Mexican preparations.

There are three basic parts to a taco and I cover each in this chapter: the vessel, which could be a corn or flour tortilla or a crispy or puffy shell; the fillings, which could be just about anything (but we’ll stick to the most common ones); and the toppings, including salsas, lettuce, cheese, and more (we’ll primarily dive into salsas).

FLOUR TORTILLAS (THIS PAGE), CORN TORTILLAS (THIS PAGE)

Taco Origins

WITH ORIGINAL TEX-MEX CUISINE, the options for tacos were limited to the kind you find in a crispy shell. But as it evolved—and a sister cuisine called Cali-Mex developed—so did the taco offerings. In more recent years, as authentic Mexican food has made its mark on American culture, it’s hard to know which tacos are Tex, which are Mex, and which are Cali. Here’s a quick guide to some of the more common tacos seen today.

Though corn tortillas factor heavily in Tex-Mex food overall, flour tortillas are often the base for its tacos.

CRISPY TACO

PUFFY TACO

FAJITA TACO

AL CARBÓN

BREAKFAST TACO

The simplest Mexican tacos rely on thin corn tortillas—sometimes two stacked together—to carry meat, and they’re topped with just a sprinkle of cilantro and chopped white onion.

AL PASTOR

BARBACOA

CAMARONES (SHRIMP) DIABLO

CARNE ASADA

CARNITAS

CHICKEN TINGA

CHICKEN OR PORK MOLE

COCHINITA PIBIL

As much as I’d love to claim it, the fish taco is just not Tex-Mex. It’s strictly a Baja California creation.

FISH TACO

BURRITO TACO

There's No Wrong Way To Taco

YOU CAN MAKE A TACO OUT OF JUST ABOUT ANY PROTEIN OR VEGETABLE IN THIS BOOK. But it’s what you put atop that protein that makes the taco special. Here’s a guide to building the perfect taco, from tortilla and filling to salsa and other toppings, every time. Feel free to experiment on your own, too.

CRISPY BEEF TACO

Crispy Taco Shell (this page)

Beef Picadillo (this page)

Shredded lettuce

Diced tomato

Shredded cheese

Roasted Tomato Salsa (this page)

PUFFY TACO

Puffy Taco Shell (this page)

Beef Picadillo (this page)

Shredded lettuce

Diced tomato

Shredded cheese

Cowboy Gringo Table Hot Sauce (this page)

Chile con Queso (this page)

BEEF FAJITA TACO

Flour Tortilla (this page)

Beef Fajitas (this page)

Sautéed onions and poblano peppers

Sour cream

Lettuce

Pico de Gallo (this page)

Tomatillo Crudo (this page)

BREAKFAST TACO

Flour Tortilla (this page)

Refried Beans (this page)

Chihuahua or Monterrey Jack cheese

Egg

San Antonio–Style Breakfast Salsa (this page)

AL PASTOR

Corn Tortilla (this page)

Al Pastor (this page)

Chopped grilled pineapple

Avocado Crema (this page)

BARBACOA

Corn Tortilla (this page)

Braised Beef Barbacoa (this page)

Tomatillo Crudo (this page)

Lime

CARNE ASADA

Corn Tortilla (this page)

Carne Asada (this page)

Guacamole (this page)

Chopped onion

Roasted Tomato Salsa (this page)

CARNE GUISADA

Corn Tortilla (this page)

Carne Guisada (this page)

Sliced avocado

Salsa Verde (this page)

CARNITAS

Corn Tortilla (this page)

Carnitas (this page)

Cilantro

Chopped onion

Salsa Verde (this page)

CHICKEN OR PORK MOLE

Corn Tortilla (this page)

Chicken or Pork Mole (this page and this page)

Sliced onion

Toasted sesame

FISH TACO

Corn Tortilla (this page)

Whole Grilled Red Snapper (this page)

Shredded cabbage

Tomatillo Crudo (this page)

SPICY MAYO: 2 parts mayonnaise, 1 part Super-Spicy “Staff Only” Salsa (this page)

Tortillas Soft And Crisp

ANY GOOD TEX-MEX RESTAURANT worth its salt makes its own tortillas—both corn and flour—in-house. The corn variety should be pliant and rich with corn flavor, while flour tortillas should be light and fluffy, as well as thin, soft, and a little translucent. Freshly made flour tortillas are sublime. A good rule to follow when eating out Ask if the flour tortillas are made in-house. If not, go with the corn!

Beyond these soft tortillas, there are also the crispy and the puffy, two hallmarks of Tex-Mex cuisine. With the crispy taco shell, take advantage of the firm U-shaped structure; it allows you to more easily hold the taco in one hand. Once it’s in your hand, you shouldn’t have to put it down. You should be able to finish it in four bites at most—well, maybe just two, but who’s counting?

The puffy taco is most commonly associated with San Antonio; you won’t find this style as much throughout the rest of Texas. What’s cool about a puffy taco is that the masa is slid into hot oil rather than griddled, which causes it to become very airy. The outside is delicate and crunchy, while the inside is slightly chewy. The corn flavor is highlighted a lot more than in a griddled crispy taco.

Crispy Taco Shells

Makes 12 shells

Vegetable oil

12 (6-inch) corn tortillas, store-bought or homemade (this page)

Kosher salt

1 Fill a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot with oil to a depth of 1½ inches. Heat the oil over medium-high heat to 375°F. Line a wire rack with paper towels, place it on a baking sheet, and set it nearby.

2 Place a tortilla in the hot oil. Fry until golden, 10 to 15 seconds, then, using heat-resistant tongs, gently grab one side of the tortilla and fold it in half to create a U-shape. Hold it in place in the oil until the tortilla maintains its shape, 1 to 2 minutes. Fry until the tortilla is golden and crispy, 2 to 3 minutes more. Using the tongs, transfer it to the prepared rack and sprinkle it with salt. Repeat to fry the remaining tortillas.

3 Serve immediately.

Corn Tortillas

Makes 12 6-inch tortillas

2 cups masa harina (see Tip, this page), plus more as needed

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

1 In a medium bowl, combine the masa harina, salt, and 2 cups water and stir until a dough forms. Turn out the dough onto a clean counter or cutting board. Using your hands, stir and knead the dough until it has the texture of Play-Doh, 3 to 4 minutes. To test the texture, roll a small ball of dough between the palms of your hands, then press it between your fingers. If the edges crack, it’s too dry; if it sticks to your skin, it’s too wet. Work in more water or masa harina as needed.

2 Divide the dough into 12 equal portions and use your hands to roll them into golf-ball-size rounds. Carefully flatten each round by hand to about ⅛-inch thickness. Stack them on a plate and cover them with a clean kitchen towel to prevent them from drying out.

3 Heat a well-seasoned griddle over medium-high heat.

4 Slice open the sides of a resealable plastic bag, creating a rectangle. Lay one end of the plastic rectangle on the bottom of a tortilla press. Place one piece of dough on the plastic, fold the other side of the plastic over the dough, and press to form a 6-inch tortilla. (Alternatively, use the bottom of a heavy cast-iron skillet to press the dough.) Carefully peel the tortilla from the plastic and place it on the heated griddle. Cook until the bottom is golden, about 30 seconds, then flip and cook the other side until dried, about 30 seconds more. The tortilla may puff up and brown lightly in spots. Stack the tortillas as they are cooked and wrap them in a clean kitchen towel or put them in a tortilla holder to trap the heat and steam.

5 Serve immediately.

Puffy Taco Shells

Makes 12 shells / Serves 4

Vegetable oil

12 (6-inch) corn tortillas, store-bought or homemade (this page)

Kosher salt

1 Fill a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot with oil to a depth of 1½ inches. Heat the oil over medium-high heat to 375°F. Line a wire rack with paper towels, place it on a baking sheet, and set it nearby.

2 Slide a tortilla into the hot oil and, using a large metal spoon, carefully spoon the hot oil over the top of the shell, continuously basting the tortilla until it begins to puff, 10 to 15 seconds. Use the spoon to gently push down the middle of the puffed top to create a crease for fillings. Once the crease is set, fry the tortilla, continuously basting it with the hot oil, until golden and crispy, about 1 minute more. Using a slotted spoon, carefully transfer the shell to the prepared rack and sprinkle it with salt. Repeat to fry the remaining tortillas.

3 Serve immediately.

If you’re not able to make your own corn tortillas, try to find fresh ones from a local Tex-Mex restaurant, or you can buy them at the store as a last resort. Just know they will likely not puff up as much.

Flour Tortillas

Makes 10 to 12 6-inch tortillas

2⅓ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

1 tablespoon baking powder

2¼ teaspoons kosher salt

⅔ cup vegetable shortening or lard

⅔ cup warm water

1 In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. Mix on low speed until well combined, 30 seconds. Add the shortening and mix on low speed until the mixture looks like coarse cornmeal, about 1 minute more. Add the water and mix on low speed until the dough comes together.

2 Switch to the dough hook attachment and mix on medium-high speed until the dough pulls away from the side of the bowl and springs back when you try to pull a piece off (you want the dough to fight you a little), 5 to 7 minutes. Cover the bowl with a damp kitchen towel and let the dough rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

3 Divide the dough into 10 equal portions and use your hands to roll them into rounds slightly smaller than golf balls. Put them on a baking sheet, cover with a clean kitchen towel, and let rest for 30 minutes.

4 Place the dough balls in a medium bowl, sprinkle them lightly with flour, and toss to coat.

5 Heat a well-seasoned griddle over medium-high heat. When the griddle is hot, transfer a dough ball to a lightly floured surface and use a rolling pin to roll it out as thin as possible. Add one tortilla and cook until it is puffed and golden brown spots appear on the bottom, about 1 minute. Flip and cook until brown spots begin to form, 30 seconds more. If bubbles form in the dough, pop the bubbles with a paring knife to deflate them. Repeat with the remaining dough balls. Stack the tortillas as they are cooked and wrap them in a clean kitchen towel or put them in a tortilla holder to trap the heat and steam.

6 Serve warm.

If using store-bought flour tortillas, I like to heat them on a griddle as I do fresh ones. It gives them a little more color and charred flavor. But if you’re crunched for time, place 10 to 12 tortillas in an insulated fabric tortilla warmer—or two clean dish towels—and microwave until warm, about 30 seconds.

Carne Guisada

Makes enough to fill 4 to 6 tacos

Good carne guisada (beef stew) is one of the best cures for the common cold in the dead of winter. I like when it’s cooked more like a roux-thickened stew rather than meat simmered in a thin broth. It’s not exactly a pretty dish, but that’s never stopped me from digging into a plate of it. Serve it with a side of fluffy flour tortillas, either to wrap the stew into a taco or simply to sop up the gravy on the plate.

1½ pounds beef chuck, cut into 1-inch-thick slices

1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

1 pound vine-ripened tomatoes, halved

1 pound tomatillos, husks removed, halved

3 jalapeño peppers, stemmed

1 poblano pepper, stemmed

1 medium onion, halved

2 garlic cloves

1½ tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more for brushing

6 tablespoons Standard Chile Paste (this page)

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon dried Mexican oregano

1½ tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 Preheat the oven to 375°F. Heat a grill to high or heat a grill pan over high heat.

2 Place the meat in a medium bowl, season with the salt, and toss to combine. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and set aside at room temperature while preparing the vegetables.

3 Brush the tomatoes, tomatillos, jalapeños, poblano, onion, and garlic lightly with oil. Grill until lightly charred, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer the vegetables to a food processor and add the chile paste, cumin, black pepper, oregano, and ½ cup water. Process until smooth, 2 to 3 minutes.

4 Heat the oil in a 5-quart Dutch oven set over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers, add the flour and cook, whisking continuously, until the mixture turns the color of milk chocolate, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the vegetable mixture, increase the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Add the meat, cover, and transfer the pot to the oven.

5 Roast until the meat is tender, 1½ to 2 hours. Taste and add more salt as needed.

6 If not using immediately, store the carne guisada in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 days. Before serving, reheat in a saucepan over medium heat until warmed through.

Braised Beef Barbacoa

Makes enough to fill 8 tacos

Traditionally, barbacoa comes from the Caribbean and coastal parts of Central America, including Mexico. Whole lamb or sheep are commonly used on the islands, but as the method of cooking moved its way up through Northern Mexico and into Texas, beef head became more common. Today, you see barbacoa fairly regularly on menus—it’s even available at Chipotle—but the meat is more likely to be beef stew meat or roast rather than beef head.

1 pound boneless beef short rib (chuck or stew meat)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 cups chicken broth

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 cup chopped vine-ripened tomatoes

½ large onion, chopped

4 smoked dried pasilla chiles, stemmed

2 jalapeño peppers, stemmed and cut crosswise into 1-inch slices

3 garlic cloves, smashed

1 cinnamon stick

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon chili powder (I like Gebhardt)

1 bay leaf

1 Preheat the oven to 325°F.

2 Season the meat generously with salt and black pepper.

3 Heat the oil in a 4- to 5-quart Dutch oven or other heavy pot set over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers, add the meat and cook until browned on all sides, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer the meat to a plate.

4 Add the broth, lime juice, tomatoes, onion, pasillas, jalapeños, garlic, cinnamon stick, cumin, chili powder, and bay leaf to the pot. Bring to a boil over high heat. Remove the pot from the heat and add the beef, submerging it in the liquid. Cover and transfer to the oven. Braise until the meat is fork-tender, 2½ to 3 hours.

5 Transfer the meat to a large bowl. Using two forks, shred the meat into small pieces. Strain the liquid left in the pot, discarding the solids. Taste the liquid and season it with salt and pepper as needed. Pour the strained liquid over the meat.

6 If not using immediately, store the barbacoa in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 days. Before serving, reheat the meat in a saucepan over medium heat until warmed through.

Beef Picadillo

Makes enough to fill 6 tacos

This taco meat is really the core ingredient for a lot of Tex-Mex dishes—enchiladas, tostadas, flautas, tamales, and more. But the primary home for this spicy ground beef mixture is in the taco. I have some pretty strong opinions when it comes to crispy beef picadillo tacos, and the most important thing is that the meat be moist and flavorful. Don’t make the mistake of letting it dry out as it simmers on the stove. When the beef is done, there should be a layer of liquid along the bottom of the pan.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 onion, chopped

1 garlic clove, minced

1 jalapeño pepper, chopped

1 pound ground beef

2 vine-ripened tomatoes, chopped

1 tablespoon chili powder (I like Gebhardt)

1 tablespoon ground cumin

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup dark beer (I like Modelo Negra), plus more as needed

1 Heat the oil in a large skillet set over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and jalapeño and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is translucent, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the beef and cook, using a wooden spoon to break up the meat as it browns, for 6 to 8 minutes. Drain the mixture, return it to the skillet, and set the skillet over medium heat. Add the tomatoes, chili powder, and cumin, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is fragrant and well incorporated, 4 to 5 minutes.

2 Pour in the beer, bring to a simmer, and cook until the sauce begins to thicken, 15 to 20 minutes. If the meat starts to look dry, pour in a little more beer, ¼ cup at a time. You want the cooked beef to be wet.

3 If not using immediately, store the beef in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 days. Before serving, reheat the meat in a saucepan over medium heat until warmed through.

Carnitas

Makes enough to fill 8 tacos

Spanish for “little meats,” carnitas is a great way to deliciously feed a lot of people with a humble piece of pork. The first step in the cooking process keeps things slow and low, with the meat submerged in lard and cooked until it becomes super rich and tender. But what elevates carnitas is then taking that meat and crisping it up by frying it in a skillet before you serve it. It develops a great crunchy texture that makes the flavor come alive.

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 pounds pork belly, skin removed

¾ cup lard (this page), melted

1 Preheat the oven to 300°F.

2 In a small bowl, combine the salt, sugar, garlic powder, cumin, and pepper. Rub the seasoning mixture all over the pork belly. Place the pork in a small roasting pan, spoon in the lard all around, cover tightly with aluminum foil, and roast until the meat is fork-tender, about 2 hours. Remove the pan from the oven and let cool slightly. Cover the pan and refrigerate until completely chilled, at least 4 hours or up to overnight.

3 If not using immediately, store the pork and lard in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 days.

4 When ready to use, remove the pork from the lard and set aside. Transfer the lard to a large heavy pot set over high heat and bring it to 365°F. Cut the pork into 1-inch cubes and carefully place them in the hot lard. Fry until crispy and golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pork to a cutting board and coarsely chop. Serve hot.

Pollo con Mole

Makes enough to fill 8 tacos

Mole is a traditional Mexican sauce that can take many forms and showcase many different chiles, seeds, fruits, and nuts. The most common version served in America is mole poblano, but I never saw it much in Tex-Mex restaurants in the 1980s and ’90s. The first time I encountered it, I wasn’t really a fan. It was too brown and, honestly, a little scary—it looked like chocolate smeared on chicken. Later I learned to appreciate the complexity of it—traditional recipes often contain more than two dozen ingredients. It’s not hard to make, but you need patience.

8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 cups mole poblano sauce, store-bought or homemade (this page)

1 Preheat the oven to 400°F.

2 Season the chicken on both sides with salt and pepper.

3 Heat the oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers, add the chicken, skin-side down, and cook until golden brown, 5 to 6 minutes. Flip the chicken and cook until browned on the second side, about 1 minute. Transfer the chicken to a plate.

4 Carefully discard the oil from the skillet. Pour in 1 cup water and use a wooden spoon to scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the skillet. Set the skillet over medium-high heat, add the mole, bring to a simmer, and cook for about 2 minutes until heated through.

5 Return the chicken to the skillet, skin-side up. Place the skillet in the oven and roast until the chicken is just cooked through, 25 to 30 minutes. Cover with aluminum foil toward the end of the baking time if the mole begins to get too dark.

6 Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and let cool slightly. Using 2 forks, pull the meat from the bone and coarsely chop (discard the bones), then return it to the skillet with the mole.

7 If not using immediately, store the chicken and mole in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 days. Before serving, reheat in a saucepan over medium heat until warmed through.

Mole Poblano Sauce

Makes about 3½ cups

6 ounces dried ancho chiles (about 12), stemmed, some seeds removed

3 ounces dried guajillo chiles (about 20), stemmed, some seeds removed

½ ounce dried morita chiles (about 4), stemmed, some seeds removed

Boiling water

1 corn tortilla (6-inch), store-bought or homemade (this page)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon chopped walnuts

1 tablespoon chopped pecans

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

¾ teaspoon coriander seeds

¾ teaspoon aniseeds

¾ teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1 cinnamon stick

¼ teaspoon whole cloves

¼ teaspoon allspice berries

2 tablespoons raisins

1 ripe small plantain

½ cup roasted tomato salsa, store-bought or homemade (this page)

1 tablespoon packed light brown sugar

1 (3-ounce) disc Mexican chocolate, coarsely chopped

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

Place the ancho, guajillo, and morita chiles in a small bowl and cover with boiling water. Cover the bowl and soak for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat a grill to high.

Grill the tortilla until charred on both sides, 1 to 2 minutes. Set aside.

In a large sauté pan set over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the walnuts, pecans, sesame seeds, coriander, aniseeds, peppercorns, cinnamon stick, cloves, and allspice. Cook, stirring continuously, until the nuts and seeds are golden in color and the spices are fragrant, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove and discard the cinnamon stick. Transfer the mixture to a mini food processor or blender and process until finely chopped, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the raisins and the plantain and process until smooth, about 2 minutes. Set aside.

Drain the chiles in a strainer set over a bowl; reserve the soaking liquid. Transfer the chiles to a blender and add ¼ cup of the reserved liquid. Purée until smooth, adding more liquid as needed, ¼ cup at a time, so the sauce has a thin, pastelike consistency but is not runny. Pass the purée through a fine-mesh strainer into a large saucepan.

Add the grilled tortilla and the spiced nut-seed mixture to the saucepan. Stir in the salsa, brown sugar, chocolate, salt, and 1 cup water. Set the pan over low heat and slowly bring the mixture to a simmer, about 30 minutes. Simmer until the chocolate has melted and the tortilla is very soft, about 30 minutes more. Using an immersion blender, purée until smooth. If the mole is too thick, add more water, ¼ cup at a time, until thinned to the desired consistency. Taste and add more salt as needed.

If not using immediately, store the mole in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to about a week. Before serving, reheat in a saucepan over medium heat until warmed through.

The Wide World of Salsa

IF YOU ASK ME, salsa—that smooth and spicy marriage of tomato, onion, and pepper—is the central element in Tex-Mex cooking. Whether it’s served as a dip for tortilla chips or a condiment for tacos or used as a sauce for broiling enchiladas, salsa, in all its forms, is the spark that brings Tex-Mex cuisine alive.

Coinciding with the rise of Tex-Mex in the 1980s, salsa itself became so popular that, by 1992, it had dethroned ketchup as the top-selling condiment in America, according to a report from the market research firm Packaged Facts. As ubiquitous as it has become, salsa is generally thought just to be a red-hued, somewhat liquid mixture made primarily of tomatoes. That, my friends, is far from the whole story. Salsa means “sauce,” and it can vary widely in color—from the recognizable red to green, orange, smoky red-brown, and even brown—thanks to ingredients such as tomatillos, avocado, herbs, and the wide variety of chiles that may be added to the mix. And this is where it really gets exciting, since the resulting flavors are bold and unique.

What follows is a selection of staple salsas I like to have on hand to take anything from basic breakfast eggs to an at-home taco party to the next level.

Avocado Crema

Makes about 1 cup

2 avocados, pitted and peeled

1 small jalapeño pepper, stemmed and coarsely chopped

1 garlic clove

1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro

½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

Juice of 1 lime

1 In a blender or food processor, combine the avocados, jalapeño, garlic, cilantro, salt, lime juice, and 2 tablespoons water. Purée until smooth, stopping to scrape down the sides of the blender once or twice, 2 to 3 minutes. Taste and add more salt as needed.

2 Serve or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days.

Pico de Gallo

Makes about 2 cups

1¼ cups finely chopped onions

¼ cup finely chopped tomato

¼ cup minced jalapeño pepper

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

¼ cup fresh lime juice

½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

1 In a large bowl, stir together the onion, tomato, jalapeño, cilantro, lime juice, and salt in a large bowl. Taste and add more salt as needed.

2 Serve or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Cowboy Gringo Table Hot Sauce

Makes about 2½ cups

2 cups white vinegar

1 ounce dried chiles de árbol (about 40), stemmed

1 ounce dried morita chiles (about 8), stemmed

3 garlic cloves

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano

2 whole cloves

Pinch of ground cumin

1 In a small saucepan set over high heat, combine the vinegar, chiles, garlic, peppercorns, oregano, cloves, cumin, and ½ cup water. Bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the chiles have softened, about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let cool for 30 minutes.

2 Transfer the mixture to a blender and purée until smooth, 2 minutes. Pour through a fine-mesh strainer (discard the solids).

3 Serve or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

Roasted Tomato Salsa

Makes about 2 cups

1 pound vine-ripened tomatoes

¼ onion

3 small serrano peppers

1 garlic clove

2 tablespoons fresh cilantro leaves

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

1 Heat a grill to high, or place an oven rack 6 to 8 inches from the heat source and preheat the oven to broil. If using the broiler, line a baking sheet with aluminum foil.

2 Grill the tomatoes, onion, and serranos until charred all over, or place them on a baking sheet and broil, turning once, until charred, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer the grilled vegetables to a blender and add the garlic, cilantro, and salt. Purée until almost smooth, about 1 minute.

3 Serve or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days.

Salsa Macha

Makes about 1½ cups

1 cup peanut oil

½ cup unsalted peanuts or almonds

4 garlic cloves, smashed

2 tablespoons sesame seeds

1.5 ounces dried guajillo chiles (about 10), stemmed, seeded, and torn into small pieces

.5 ounce dried chiles de árbol (about 20), stemmed, seeded, and torn into small pieces

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1 tablespoon light brown sugar

⅛ teaspoon dried Mexican oregano

2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste

¼ cup grapeseed oil

1 In a 2-quart saucepan set over medium heat, combine the peanut oil, peanuts, garlic, and sesame seeds. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic turns light golden, about 5 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the dried chiles. Set aside to cool slightly, stirring occasionally.

2 Transfer the peanut mixture to a blender. Add the vinegar, brown sugar, oregano, and salt. Purée until a slightly loose paste forms, about 5 minutes. You should be able to see small dark flakes of chile in the mixture.

3 Pour the mixture into a small bowl and stir in the grapeseed oil until well combined. Taste and add more salt as needed.

4 Serve or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.

Salsa Verde

Makes about 3 cups

1 pound tomatillos, husks removed

2 serrano peppers

1 small bunch cilantro, tough stems removed

1 garlic clove

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

2 tablespoons finely chopped onion

1 Heat a grill to high or heat a grill pan over high heat.

2 Grill the tomatillos until they’re charred in several places but before they begin to turn grayish green, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a blender.

3 Grill the serranos until they’re charred on all sides, about 3 minutes. Remove the stems and seeds and add the flesh to the blender.

4 Add the cilantro, garlic and salt to the blender and purée until smooth, about 1 minute. Transfer the salsa to a 1-quart container and fold in the onion. Taste and add more salt as needed.

5 Serve or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days.

Super-Spicy “Staff Only” Salsa

Makes about 1½ cups

1 large vine-ripened tomato

¼ cup vegetable oil

½ cup stemmed dried chiles de árbol

1 garlic clove

½ teaspoon chicken bouillon

¼ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

1 Heat a grill to high, or place an oven rack 6 to 8 inches from the heat source and preheat the oven to broil. If using the broiler, line a baking sheet with aluminum foil.

2 Grill the tomato until charred on all sides, or place it on the prepared baking sheet and broil, turning once, until charred, 8 to 10 minutes. Set aside.

3 Heat the oil in a small heavy pot set over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers, add the chiles and cook, stirring, until they turn slightly darker in color, 15 to 20 seconds.

4 Carefully discard most of the oil from the pot and carefully add enough water just to cover the chiles. Set the pot over high heat, bring the water to a boil, and cook until the chiles have softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain the water.

5 In a blender, combine the tomato, chiles, garlic, bouillon, cumin, and salt. Purée until smooth, about 1 minute. Taste and add more salt as needed.

6 Serve or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

there are a few other toppings that are standard in taco-building. If you’re hosting a handful of friends, you’ll also need:

2 cups shredded

ICEBERG LETTUCE

2 cups shredded

MILD CHEDDAR CHEESE

1½ cups chopped

TOMATO

½ cup chopped

WHITE ONION

¼ cup roughly chopped

FRESH CILANTRO