THIS IS A LOVELY JAM FOR CITRUS LOVERS. IT doesn’t force you to play favorites and shows off all those bright, punchy citrus flavors. In addition to its many normal applications, I like to use a couple of dollops while quickly sautéeing sliced chicken breast. Served over steamed brown rice and with a side of broccoli, it’s my cheap (and healthier) version of Chinese orange chicken take-out.
4 pounds/1.8 kg assorted citrus fruit
(I like to use 3 pink grapefruit, 4 lemons, and 5 navel oranges)
6 cups/1.2 kg granulated sugar
Wash the fruit in warm, soapy water and dry thoroughly. Using a serrated-edge vegetable peeler, remove the zest from the fruit. Stack the zest strips in piles and chop into fine confetti. Combine the zest in a pot with 2 quarts/2 liters filtered water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-high, and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes, until zest ribbons are tender.
While the zest cooks, “supreme” the fruit by cutting the white pith away from the fruit and cutting the fruit into segments between the membranes. Collect the fruit and any juices in a large bowl and remove the seeds as you go, setting them aside.
When all the fruit has been segmented out, bundle the seeds into a length of cheesecloth, tying the ends of the cloth securely so that no seeds can escape.
Drain the zest in a fine-mesh sieve, reserving the cooking liquid.
Prepare a boiling water bath and 4 regular-mouth 1-pint/500 ml jars according to the process on page 10. Place the lids in a small saucepan, cover them with water, and simmer over very low heat.
In a pot, combine the drained zest, segmented citrus fruit and juice, 4 cups/960 ml of the reserved cooking liquid, the sugar, and the cheesecloth bundle. Bring to a vigorous boil and cook until the mixture reaches 220°F/105°C (this takes between 30 and 40 minutes). Stir regularly as it cooks to prevent scorching.
When the marmalade reaches 220°F/105°C and sustains that temperature for 1 minute (even after stirring), remove the pot from the heat. Test the set of the marmalade using the saucer test described on page 77. If it doesn’t pass, return the pot to the heat and cook for an additional 5 minutes before repeating the test. Once it seems to be setting to your satisfaction, remove the pot from the heat and remove the cheesecloth bundle. Stir marmalade for about 1 minute, to help the zest bits become evenly distributed throughout the preserves.
Ladle the marmalade into the prepared jars. Wipe the rims, apply the lids and rings, and process in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes (see page 11).