BACK IN THE DAYS BEFORE BIG COMPANIES RAN our food system, ketchup was made from of all manner of fruit. It’s only in the last few generations that tomatoes won out as the primary ingredient. However, I’ve found that it’s valuable to explore some of the older variations, even if just to appreciate the creativity of days gone past. If you tackle this recipe be warned that it won’t taste exactly like your beloved Heinz. It’s closer to barbecue sauce and I’ve often used it on pulled pork or brushed on grilled chicken legs.
3 pounds/1.4 kg seedless red grapes (see note)
3 cups/720 ml apple cider vinegar
6 cups/1.2 kg granulated sugar
2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons ground cloves
1 teaspoon dry mustard
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Prepare a boiling water bath and 3 regular-mouth (1-pint/500 ml) jars according to the process on page 10. Place the lids in a small saucepan, cover them with water, and simmer over very low heat.
In a large pot, combine the grapes, cider vinegar, and sugar and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a bare simmer and cook for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, check on the grapes and if there are some that have not broken down, mash them against the side of pot with a wooden spoon.
Add the cinnamon, cloves, dry mustard, and cayenne pepper and continue to cook for another 30 to 45 minutes, until the ketchup is thick and spreadable.
When the ketchup is finished cooking, ladle it into the prepared jars, leaving ½ inch/12 mm of headspace. Wipe the rims, apply the lids and rings, and process in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes (see page 11).
Note: Because of availability, I use conventional, seedless grapes to make this recipe. However, it can be made with seedy backyard grapes. If you choose to use them, simmer the grapes with the vinegar and sugar as instructed. Once they’ve softened, position a food mill over a large bowl and press the grapes through, so that you separate the flesh of the grapes from the skins and seeds. Return the grape pulp to the pot, add the spices and proceed with the rest of the recipe.