Cuenca & the Southern Highlands
Cuenca
Around Cuenca
Parque Nacional Podocarpus
Zamora
Vilcabamba
Zumba & the Peruvian Border
Catacocha
Macará & the Peruvian Border
Cuenca & the Southern Highlands
Why Go?
The southern spine of the Ecuadorian Andes ushers intrepid travelers down lush valleys that hide pastel-hued colonial towns and remote villages where indigenous culture thrives. And – with the exception of the famous regional capital Cuenca – the highways and byways are far less traipsed.
Veering from chilly elfin woodland to humid lowland forest, the region is home to hundreds of bird species, thousands of plants and scores of mammals. The sheer diversity of these habitats means a trip to at least one of the region’s large national parks should definitely be on the agenda.
Most journeys begin in Cuenca, a classic traveler hub with one of South American’s best-preserved colonial centers. From there, you can romp through seldom-visited ancient settlements and untrammeled wild areas towards the vibrant city of Loja and balmy new-age Vilcabamba. From here, forays start up into stark ocher hills, along to verdant lower slopes coated by the plantations rearing Ecuador’s best coffee and down into sticky semi-tropical forest.
When to Go
- Year-round South of Cuenca, especially around Loja and Vilcabamba, it’s spring all year.
- Oct–May The rainy season is colder, wetter and greener; morning sun and showers later.
- May & Aug Festivals celebrating the Virgen del Cisne bring devotees from around Ecuador.
Best Places to Eat
Best Places to Stay
Cuenca & the Southern Highlands Highlights
1 Cuenca Wandering the cobblestone streets of this colonial town, a Unesco World Heritage Site.
2 Parque Nacional Cajas Hiking in the eerie, lake-bejeweled moors of this windswept highland park.
3 Ingapirca Pondering the engineering mysteries of Ecuador’s most important Inca ruins.
4 DIY Adventures Losing the gringo trail amid the region’s seldom-visited indigenous communities: unique markets, stunning churches and wildernesses.
5 Gualaceo, Chordeleg & Sígsig Spending the day shopping for handicrafts at the traditional Sunday markets in the villages near Cuenca.
6 Saraguro Diving into indigenous culture in this proud and resilient town.
7 Parque Nacional Podocarpus Keeping your eyes peeled for orchids, birds and rare mammals in the diverse habitats of this national park.
8 Vilcabamba Perfect the art of relaxation with massages, horseback riding and strolls in the clean country air.
National Parks
The southern highlands’ two national parks – Parque Nacional Cajas near Cuenca and Parque Nacional Podocarpus near Loja – are easily accessible and offer wonderful hiking opportunities. Podocarpus itself has a startling range of terrains within its own borders, so it’s worth visiting both of its sectors (highlands and lowlands) for the full effect. Part of Parque Nacional Sangay falls within this region, but its access points are further north.
8Getting There & Around
Daily direct flights from both Quito and Guayaquil go to Cuenca as well as Loja. Loja is a convenient departure point for Peru, via Macará, Zumba (passing through Vilcabamba), or even Huaquillas to the west. Guayaquil, on the coast, is only about 3½ hours by bus from Cuenca.
Cuenca
%07 / Pop 332,000 / Elev 2530m
After Quito, Cuenca is Ecuador’s most important and beautiful colonial city. But don’t say that to the locals, who insist that their laid-back culture, cleaner streets and more agreeable weather outclass the capital, hands down.
Dating from the 16th century, Cuenca’s historic center, a Unesco World Heritage Site with its trademark skyline of massive rotundas and soaring steeples, is a place time keeps forgetting: nuns march along cobblestone streets, kids in Catholic-school uniforms skip past historic churches, and old ladies spy on promenading lovers from their geranium-filled balconies.
The city is the center of many craft traditions, including ceramics, metalwork and the internationally famous panama hat – and the nearby villages offer many more handicrafts besides.
History
At least three cultures have left their imprint on Cuenca. When the Spanish arrived in the 1540s, they encountered the ruins of a great but short-lived Incan city called Tomebamba (Valley of the Sun). The Spanish eagerly dismantled what was left of it, incorporating the elegantly carved Inca stones into their own structures. Before the Inca, the indigenous Cañari people had lived in the area for perhaps 3000 years. They too had a city here, called Quanpondelig (Plain as Big as the Sky). Except for a few interesting but limited sites, the physical remains of these pre-Columbian cultures have been erased – although some cracking museums here tell their story.
1Sights
It seems like a church, shrine or plaza graces every corner in Cuenca.
1Plaza de San Sebastián
Marking the western edge of the historical center, this quiet plaza, Cuenca’s most beautiful, is anchored by the 19th-century Church of San Sebastián (MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Bolívar & Talbot; 
h6:30am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun). In 1739, when the plaza was still used for bullfights, it was a mob of cuencanos (Cuenca folks) – not the bull – who mauled a member of explorer La Condamine’s geodesic expedition here, apparently because of an affair with a local woman.
Museo de Arte ModernoMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-413-4900; cnr Mariscal Sucre & Talbot; admission by donation; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun)
On the south side of Plaza de San Sebastián, this fun museum was once a home for the insane. It now houses a highly regarded collection of Ecuadorian and Latin American art.
1Plaza de San Francisco
Resplendently colonial yet curiously ramshackle, this plaza’s set-piece is the 19th-century Church of San Francisco (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Padre Aguirre & Presidente Córdova; h6:30am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun) which features an important gold-leaf altar from the colonial period. The plaza itself is flanked by old arcaded buildings with wooden balconies, as well as one of Cuenca’s main street markets.
Church of El Carmen de la AsunciónCHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Padre Aguirre, near Mariscal Sucre; h6:30am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun)
The stark, white church just around the corner from Plaza de San Francisco was founded in 1682 and contrasts beautifully with the colorful flower market held on the small Plazoleta del Carmen out front.
1Parque Calderón & Around
The city’s largest plaza is abutted by two stunning cathedrals. The park’s name comes from independence hero Abdón Calderón, whose monument graces the center – accessed through prettily hedged walkways.
oCatedral de la Inmaculada ConcepciónCHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Parque Calderón; h6:30am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun)
Also known as the ‘new cathedral,’ construction began on this vast cathedral only in 1885. Its giant domes of sky-blue Czech tile are visible from all over Cuenca, and if it looks like the bell towers are bit short, that’s because they are – a design error made the intended height of the belfries impossible for the building to support.
oEl SagrarioCHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Parque Calderón; adult/child $2/1; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat & Sun)
Standing across the park from the new cathedral, the whitewashed El Sagrario is also known as the ‘old cathedral.’ Construction began in 1557, the year Cuenca was founded, and in 1739 La Condamine’s expedition used its towers as a triangulation point to measure the shape of the earth. It’s been deconsecrated and serves as a religious museum and recital hall.
Wander out back to the courtyard for a look at some fascinating historical photographs of colonial Cuenca life.
Museo de la CiudadMUSEUM
(MAP; cnr Gran Colombia & Benigno Malo; h8am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) 
F
Housed in the former Escuela Central la Inmaculada, this beautifully preserved colonial building has been revamped with sleek, contemporary lines to house art exhibitions in its salons.
Museo del Monasterio de las ConceptasMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-283-0625; Miguel 6-33; adult/student $3.50/2.50; h9am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat)
This religious museum in the Convent of the Immaculate Conception, founded in 1599, offers a glimpse into the centuries-old customs of the cloistered nuns who live here. You can’t see the nuns (they’re cloistered, after all) but you can see their primitive bread-making equipment and dioramas of their stark cells, as well as some religious art.
1Parque San Blas
On the east end of the historical center and occupying what was once known as the ‘low neighborhood,’ this slightly decrepit park has one of the city’s largest churches, the Church of San Blas (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Vega; h6:30am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun), at its eastern end. It’s the only Cuenca church built in the form of a Latin cross.
1Río Tomebamba & Calle Larga
Majestic colonial buildings line the grassy shores of the Río Tomebamba, which effectively separates Cuenca’s historic sector from the new neighborhoods to the south. The building facades actually open onto the street of Calle Larga, which runs parallel to and above the Tomebamba, while their back sides ‘hang’ over the river. This arrangement gives rise to the local name for the fashionable neighborhood, El Barranco (cliff). Steep stone stairways – the most used of which is the wide flight of steps known as La Escalinata – lead down to Paseo 3 de Noviembre, an attractive walkway and cycleway which follows the river’s northern bank as far west as El Vado.
oMuseo del Banco Central ‘Pumapungo’MUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-283-1521; www.pumapungo.org; Larga, btwn Arriaga & Huayna Capac; h8am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) F
One of Ecuador’s most significant museums, Pumapungo houses great modern art downstairs, but the highlight is on the second floor. Here begins a comprehensive voyage through Ecuador’s diverse indigenous cultures, with colorfully animated dioramas and reconstructions of typical houses of Afro-Ecuadorians from Esmeraldas province, the cowboy-like montubios (coastal farmers) of the western lowlands, several rainforest groups and all major highland groups.
The finale features rare and eerie tzantzas (shrunken heads) from the Shuar culture of the southern Oriente. Included in your visit is the Archaeological Park (MAP GOOGLE MAP; h8am-5:30pm Tue-Sat) F out back, where you can walk through the extensive ruins of buildings believed to be part the old Incan city of Tomebamba. Thanks to the Spanish conquistadors who carted off most of the stone to build Cuenca, there’s not much left – but the park is good for a gander and a stroll, with perhaps a stop at the snack bar at the bottom.
oMuseo de las Culturas AborígenesMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-284-1540; www.museodelasculturasaborigenes.com; Larga 5-24; adult/student $4/2; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)
This indigenous culture museum has more than 5000 archaeological pieces representing more than 20 pre-Columbian Ecuadorian cultures going back some 15,000 years. But what makes this such a gem of a museum is the informative self-guided tour – touching upon such unexpected items as combs and obsidian mirrors, and rather sophisticated cooking equipment, as well as explaining the striking designs.
It’s one of those rare museums which makes artifacts enthralling to look at. A peaceful courtyard cafe sells wickedly strong coffee.
Inca RuinsRUINS
A patch of Inca ruins lies near the river, between the east end of Larga and Av Todos los Santos. Most of the stonework was destroyed to build colonial buildings, but there are some fine niches and walls.
Museo Manuel Agustín LandivarMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Larga 2-23 & Vega; h9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri) F
At the east end of Calle Larga, this museum has archaeological exhibits and tours of the Ruinas de Todos Santos, which reveal Cañari, Inca and Spanish ruins, layered one over the other. If you don’t want a guide, you can also look at them from below on Avenida de Todos Santos.
Puente RotoBRIDGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Broken Bridge; Av de Todos Santos & Machuca)
Most of this bridge, above a pretty stretch of Paseo 3 de Noviembre, was washed away during a flood, but its stone arches make a nice venue for an open-air art fair (10am-5pm Sat) and cultural events that take place every Saturday.
Centro Interamericano de Artes PopularesMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Cidap; %07-284-0919; www.cidap.org.ec; cnr 3 de Noviembre & La Escalinata; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat) F
Just down the stairs on the riverbank, the Inter-American Traditional Art Center exhibits indigenous costumes, handicrafts and artwork from around Latin America and has a classy, well-priced crafts store.
UNRAVELING CUENCA FASHION
Most travelers will be struck by the vibrant and ornate traditional dress of indigenous women in and around Cuenca. While most men in the region have lost the custom of wearing a poncho, many women still wear their traditional garb with pride. The women’s skirts, called polleras, fall just below the knee and have a distinctive embroidered hem that can identify which community a woman comes from. Although fine polleras can cost hundreds of dollars, no part of an indigenous woman’s wardrobe is prized more than her paño, a beautiful fringed shawl made with a complicated pre-Columbian weaving technique known as ikat. Top that off with a straw hat, clunky metal earrings called zarcillas, and a pair of long braids, and you have a look that has withstood every fashion trend the past 100 years have had to offer, including jelly bracelets, acid-washed jeans and bell-bottoms… timeless!
1El Vado
Clustered around the Plazoleta de la Cruz del Vado and Calle La Condamine are galleries, cafes, restaurants and talleres (artisanal studios) specializing in everything from traditional embroidery to copperware to saddles.
Prohibido Museo de Arte ExtremoGALLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; La Condamine 12-102; $1; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat)
El Vado, an up-and-coming area, has some unusual establishments, such as this Grim Reaper-themed gallery, bar and nightclub. Find it on the upper level of the park.
1South of the City Center
The more modern part of the city south of the Río Tomebamba might lack architectural beauty but it’s increasingly the cool place to go out – and has a couple of attractive green spaces worth leaving Cuenca’s colonial heart for.
Río YanuncayPARK
About 1km south of the Old Town’s La Escalinita staircase, this peacefully wending river has tree-clad bankside green space perfect for a picnic. Upriver, at the confluence with the city’s third waterway, Río Tarqui, is a diverting botanical garden. A taxi here costs $1.50.
Mirador de TuriVIEWPOINT
For a lovely view of Cuenca, take a taxi ($5) 4km south of town along Avenida Solano to the stark white Church of Turi. The views of Cuenca’s famous, romantic skyline are especially pretty at sunset and on November and December evenings, when the city fires up the Christmas lights.
An alternative way to get here is via double-decker city tour bus ($8), departing every half-hour or so from the north side of Parque Calderón.
CCourses
Most language schools charge around $10 per hour for one-to-one classes.
Centers for Interamerican StudiesLANGUAGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; CEDEI; %07-283-9003; www.cedei.org; cnr Gran Colombia 11-02 & General Torres, 2nd fl)
A nonprofit language school offering drop-in and/or long-term courses in Spanish, Kichwa and Portuguese.
SampereLANGUAGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-282-3960; www.sampere.com; Hermano Miguel 3-43)
A highly recommended and busy Spanish-owned school.
Sí Centro de Español e InglésLANGUAGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %099-918-8264, 098-277-4464; www.sicentrospanishschool.com; Bolívar 13-28, btwn Toral & Juan Montalvo; lessons per hour $8.50; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
One of Cuenca’s reliable Spanish schools, offering small-group and one-on-one instruction.
Simón Bolívar Spanish SchoolLANGUAGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-283-2052, 07-284-4555; www.bolivar2.com; Sucre 14-21, btwn Toral & Talbot; registration fee $35, lessons s/d/group per hour $8/6/5.50)
Offers homestays, excursions, plus free salsa and cooking lessons ($3) when you sign up to a course.
TTours
Local operators arrange no-hassle day trips to Ingapirca, Parque Nacional Cajas, nearby villages and markets, and other local attractions. Most operators charge $40 to $50 per person and will pick you up at your hotel.
Expediciones ApullactaADVENTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-283-7815; www.apullacta.com; Gran Colombia 11-02, 2nd fl; h8:30am-1pm & 2:30-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)
A big operation that organizes day tours to Ingapirca ($50), Parque Nacional Cajas ($50) and the Gualaceo area ($55), among other sites. They also run a three-day/two-night Inca Trail trek package ($280), as well as canyoning day trips ($80) with internationally certified bilingual guides and excellent equipment.
Kushi WairaECOTOUR
(MAP; %099-747-6337, 07-244-0411; www.kushiwaira.com; per person $40)
This is one of the Cuenca region’s best-run community tourism projects, running on demand to the nearby community of Tarqui. One-of-a-kind day-long programs include visiting a cuy (guinea pig) breeding center, demonstrations of typical Inca rituals, picnics with the locals and the like. Trips leave from the Carolina Bookstore (inquire here when the next trip is leaving).
Terra Diversa Travel CenterTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-282-3782, 099-920-4832; www.terradiversa.com; Calle Larga near Cordero)
Specializes in biking and horse-riding day trips – as well as overnight horse-riding trips that include staying at haciendas or camping along the Inca Trail north of Ingapirca. They also have Parque Nacional Cajas and Amazon tours, and three-hour Cuenca city tours ($25).
zFestivals & Events
CarnavalFESTIVAL
As in other parts of Ecuador, February’s Carnaval is celebrated with boisterous water and talcum powder fights in which no one is spared.
Semana SantaRELIGIOUS
Holy week in Cuenca is more hectic than most – a week of processions gets perhaps most intense on the Thursday, with devotees doing the rounds of the seven key city churches. Special food, including the cheesy empanadas del viento and Cuenca’s specific take on Ecuador’s complex Easter soup, fanesca, helps fuel hungry bellies.
12 de AbrilCIVIC
April 12, the anniversary of Cuenca’s founding in 1557, often comes on the heels of Easter celebrations. It’s a time when school kids take loyalty pledges to the city, and the Reina de Cuenca (Queen of Cuenca) is selected. Cuencanos display their abundant civic pride with elaborate fireworks-laced floats from different neighborhoods.
Corpus ChristiRELIGIOUS
This Catholic celebration is usually held on the ninth Thursday after Easter and often coincides with the indigenous celebration Inti Raymi on the June solstice. Carried out with the same fervor as other big Cuenca holidays, it spills into a weekend of processions and fireworks displays. Parque Calderón is transformed into an outdoor candy festival, with vendors selling traditional sweets.
Independence DayCIVIC
Cuenca’s Independence Day is November 3, which combines with November 1 and 2 (All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Day) to form an important vacation period for the city and the whole country.
Pase del NiñoRELIGIOUS
In keeping with Cuenca’s strong Catholic identity, the Christmas Eve procession occupies participants with preparations throughout the whole year and culminates in one of Ecuador’s most spectacular religious displays.
SANTA SOPA
During Semana Santa, the ‘Holy Week’ before Easter, signs go up all over Cuenca advertising fanesca, a codfish soup that accommodates the prohibition on red meat during the holiday. The base is made of pumpkin, and a dozen kinds of beans and grains representing the 12 apostles of Jesus are thrown in. Garnishes include hard-boiled eggs, fried plantains, and mini-empanadas (the latter symbolize the unbelievers: not involved in the soup’s preparation but gladly accepted into the tradition). It’s so rich and delicious you won’t be hungry until the following Easter. In Cuenca, it’s often complemented by a dessert of cinnamon-doused rice pudding.
4Sleeping
Cuenca has a vast selection of hotels, many of which are located in old restored houses and mansions. They come in all price categories, but still run a tad higher than elsewhere. During vacation periods they fill up fast and go up in price.
oPepe’s House HostalHOSTEL$
(MAP; %097-872-5370; Mariano Cueva 9-69; incl breakfast dm $11, s/d from 20/35; 
W)
Super-chill and aesthetically appealing in a colorful but minimalist style, Pepe’s House is Cuenca’s hostel for travelers who’ve graduated from party mode. Dorms with cushy beds are partitioned with half-walls for some privacy, while private rooms feel like guest bedrooms at a friend’s place. Ample common space invites lounging, while the in-house cafe offers wholesome, tasty eats.
Additional perks include free laundry for stays of longer than three days (otherwise, it’s a reasonable $5), and free walking tours of the city. Weekend rates are slightly higher.
Hostal YakumamaHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-283-4353; www.hostalyakumama.com; Cordero, btwn Jaramillo & Vásquez; dm/s/d incl breakfast from $8/17/22, d with private bathroom $31; W)
As hostels go, the spacious Yakumama is one of Cuenca’s best. From the light, roomy 10-bed dorm down through the nicely hand-painted private rooms to the cool common areas (a courtyard full of murals and plants) the owners clearly know what a great hostel needs. There’s a great community bulletin board with current activities and events around town.
Staff can be hot and cold, and the place could be a little cleaner, but it remains a go-to spot to meet other travelers and hang in the lounge. Nonguests can also enjoy cocktails in the lounge, which opens to the public from 5pm to midnight.
Hostal AlternativeHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-408-4101; www.alternativehostal.com; cnr Huayna Capac & Cacique Duma; dm/s/d incl breakfast $9/13/22; W)
Although it’s a bit removed from the action, this sparkly hostel (with clean rooms, shared kitchen, TV room and excellent rooftop terrace) has a lot going for it. The modern octagon-shaped building offers small- and medium-size dorm rooms with good mattresses and plenty of space.
Go HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP; %099-510-1746, 098-837-5810; Borrero 5-47; dm/d incl breakfast from $7/24; W)
In a pretty, creaky little colonial building, this brand-new hostel is a bargain in central Cuenca. There’s zero noise privacy but the feel is convivial and there’s a daily happy hour with two-for-$5 drinks.
El CafecitoHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-411-4765; www.elcafecitohostel.wixsite.com/elcafecito; Cueva 11-28, near Lamar; dm/d $10/30; W)
Not much has changed at long-term backpacker fave El Cafecito. This is both good (why change a good thing – this probably remains ground zero for meeting other travelers) and bad (rooms look a tad battered, and other hostels in town have overtaken the place in quality). The courtyard cafe-bar is still charming and atmospheric – but rooms nearby stay noisy until the wee hours.
Hotel Morenica del RosarioHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-282-8669; www.morenicadelrosario.com; cnr Gran Colombia 10-65, btwn Torres & Aguirre; s/d incl breakfast $63/81)
Steep stairs at the rather singular Morenica del Rosario wind up around a series of sizable, well-furnished, occasionally dingy rooms, evoking images of some aging aristocrat’s once-grand quarters, to a nice roof terrace. Common areas exude a certain Gothic sumptuousness, and it’s a very quiet place. All rooms include safes and mini-fridges.
Hostal MacondoHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-282-1700; http://hostalmacondo.com; Tarqui 11-64; s/d incl breakfast $34/47; W)
The colonial-style Hostal Macondo has spotless palatial rooms in the front, older section, and small but cozy rooms situated around a big, sunny garden out back, making this one of the best lower-end deals in town. Longer-staying guests will enjoy access to the well-equipped and spotless kitchen, and everyone likes the continental breakfasts with bottomless cups of coffee.
Hotel Inca RealHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-282-5571; www.hotelincareal.com.ec; Torres, btwn Sucre & Bolívar; s/d from $70/91; 
pW)
The Inca Real is the bottom of top-end, rather than top of midrange: its aspirations are clearly grand, and the gorgeous tiled courtyard, abutted by the equally nice tapas restaurant next door, prepares you for stunning rooms. Yet these are only a smidge above average; they tick all the expected boxes with their facilities. One suite is available.
Hotel Posada del ReyHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-284-3845; www.posadadelreyhotel.com; cnr Benigno Malo & Córdova; s/d/ste incl breakfast from $23/60/99; pW)
In a restored colonial-style house, 10 rooms with hand-painted murals surround a central courtyard full of wood and iron. It’s not quite fit for a king, as the name implies, but all the relatively comfy rooms have balconies, cable TV and an odd disinfectant odor. They could be a little more cheerful when showing you the room: doesn’t a king deserve that?
Hostal Posada del AngelB&B$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-284-0695; www.hostalposadadelangel.com; Bolívar 14-11; s/d/tr incl breakfast $54/81/98; p
iW)
This yellow-and-blue B&B in a – you guessed it! – colonial-era house has comfortable rooms with cable TV and big beds. Those off the interior balconies have high ceilings, and several others reached by a narrow wooden staircase are tucked away in the quiet reaches (our favorites). Breakfasts in the sunlit lobby are watched over by the eponymous angel.
Casa MontalvoHOSTAL$$
(MAP; %07-284-4997; www.casamontalvo.com; Montalvo 8-33, near Sucre; r/ste incl breakfast from $50/120; W)
With a colonial aesthetic and modern accoutrements, this midrange spot makes a comfortable base for exploring Cuenca. Rooms surround an attractive courtyard; some rooms tend toward a blander style than the public spaces might lead one to expect.
Hostal Casa de BarrancoGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-283-9763; www.casadelbarranco.com; Larga 8-41, btwn Benigno Malo & Cordero; s/d/tr incl breakfast from $29/44/58; W)
Hanging over the high cliffs of El Barranco, this colonial abode has comfortable rooms, four of which have river-facing terraces. The cafeteria, all bare stone walls, haughty furniture and more river views from its terrace, makes a good breakfast spot. Its great location puts it on the map.
oMansión AlcázarHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-282-3918, 07-282-3889; http://mansionalcazar.com; Bolívar 12-55; s/d incl breakfast $145/252; piW)
With unrivaled service and rooms decorated with unique themes, the Alcázar is the best high-end offering in Cuenca. A water fountain spills over with fresh flowers in the interior courtyard, and the sumptuous garden, library and international restaurant all convey the management’s tireless attention to detail. Five newer rooms surround a garden at the back. There are several suites, too.
Hotel VictoriaHACIENDA$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-283-1120, 07-282-7401; www.hotelvictoriaecuador.com; Calle Larga 6-93; s/d incl breakfast $90/115; piW)
One of several grand 17th-century houses on the barranco over Río Tomebamba, the Victoria’s 23 impeccable hacienda-style rooms have exposed wooden beams, comfy beds and modern bathrooms. Two suites have giant terraces over the river and many rooms have views, making this a lovely high-end choice. The attentive service and excellent restaurant round out the experience.
Hotel Casa de AguilaHOSTAL$$$
(MAP; %07-283-6498; www.hotelcasadelaguila.com; Sucre 13-56, near Montalvo; s/d incl breakfast from $54/78; pW)
In this pretty, colonial-style hostal, 16 comfortable, wood-floored rooms with modern bathrooms surround a peaceful inner courtyard complete with gurgling fountain. Some rooms have outward-facing balconies with cathedral views. The lovely staff complement the pleasing environs.
Hotel Los BalconesHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-284-2103; www.hotellosbalconescuenca.com; Borrero 12-08; s/d/tr $75/110/128; pW)
We still like this converted colonial-era home with a remarkable chandelier in the central courtyard. Small but well-appointed rooms have hand-painted walls and the rooftop terrace has views fit for a queen. Set the Jacuzzi showers on pulse to feel the wonder of a thousand hands massaging you at once. Amenities include hair dryers, safes, fridges and chocolates.
5Eating
oMoliendo CaféCOLOMBIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-282-8710; Vásquez 6-24; mains $3-7; h9am-9pm; W)
This is one of the best little eateries you’ll find in Ecuador – and that’s why Moliendo Café is always rammed. The hearty arepas (maize pancakes) herald from Ecuador’s northern neighbors but are a specialty here, topped with anything from beans and cheese to slow-cooked pork. The delicious and filling almuerzos (set lunches; $2.50) and meriendas (set dinners; $3.50) are also a smashing deal.
Café ÑucallactaCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; http://cafenucallacta.com; Hermano Miguel 5-62, btwn Honorato Vasquez & Juan Jaramillo; light meals $2-5; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun; W)
The best cafe in Cuenca. Artisan Ecuadorian coffee is roasted and the resulting brews are the main reason to stop by – along with gleaning an insight into Ecuador’s coffee industry from the knowledgable owner. Note that they also do nice breakfasts and cakes and the tables fill up fast in the mornings.
Windhorse CafeCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-284-9334; Larga 6-16; light meals $2-5; h8am-3pm Thu-Sun)
The pies (peanut butter flavor, mmm!) are outstanding, the home-baked cakes are addictive, the salads are enticing and so the Tardis-like Windhorse baits you into lingering awhile. The lingering sometimes morphs into a day-long thing: there’s a book exchange, after all – and yoga and meditation classes.
Tres EstrellasECUADORIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-282-6968, 07-282-2340; Calle Larga 1-174; mains $4-5; h11:30am-3pm & 5:30pm-1am Tue-Sat)
Long in the business, Tres Estrellas roasts up gourmet cuy (guinea pig; $17, serves two). If you’re not up for that squeaky delicacy, there’s outstanding grilled beef, chicken and pork on the menu too.
El Pedregal AztecaMEXICAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-282-3652; Estevez de Toral 8-60; mains $5-9; hnoon-3pm & 6:30-11pm Tue-Sat, noon-3pm Sun; 
v)
El Pedregal serves delicious Mexican food, including lots of vegetarian options, in an atmosphere that’s all ponchos, sombreros and olé! The portions can be a bit small, however, so fill up on the free homemade chips.
Govinda’sINTERNATIONAL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Jaramillo 7-27; set lunches $2.50, mains $4; hnoon-3pm Mon, noon-3pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sat; Wv)
Pizzas, lentil burgers and a little good karma to wash it down.
Good AffinityTAIWANESE$
(%07-283-2469; cnr Gran Colombia 1-89 & Capulies; mains $2-4; h9:30am-3:30pm Mon-Sat; v)
This oddly named Taiwanese cafeteria is the king of soy, gluten and all things vegetarian. Almuerzos (set lunches; $2) include a filling soup, entrée and dessert. Outdoor seating is available.
AngelusICE CREAM$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Benigno Malo & Bolívar; scoops $1.50-4; h8am-10:30pm Mon-Wed, 8am-11:30pm Thu-Sat, 8am-10pm Sun)
Cuenca’s coolest heladeria (ice-cream shop) will freeze you in shock at some of the weirder offerings from its tubs, but we can vouch for the oreo cookie flavor. It’s bang on the main plaza – indulging was never easier.
GuajibambaECUADORIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-282-0558, 07-283-1016; guajibambarestaurante@gmail.com; Luís Cordero 12-32; mains $7-12; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm Mon-Sat)
This restaurant has a small menu of traditional plates such as seco de chivo and gourmet fritada (fried chunks of pork, served with hominy, avocado and other garnishes). It’s one of the best places to try cuy (guinea pig; $21.50) if you’re game; call an hour before you go for prep time. It’s liveliest in the evenings.
RaymipampaECUADORIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Benigno Malo 8-59; mains $5-11; h8:30am-11pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-10pm Sat & Sun; W)
This Cuenca institution is overwhelmingly popular with locals and travelers and stays open late. The menu hangs somewhere between Ecuadorian comfort food and diner fare. Get a pew on the upstairs deck for a view of what Ecuadorian meals are all about.
Café AustriaEUROPEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-284-0899; cnr Hermano Miguel & Bolívar; mains $6-12; h8am-10:30pm; W)
Does exactly what it says on the label. Austrian-esque comfort food such as goulash, strudel and Sachertorte taste particularly divine after days/weeks on the road, and the corner location is an attractive spot to check emails over coffee or play some chess with local enthusiasts.
Fabiano’sPIZZA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Presidente Córdova & Cueva; pizzas $6-17; W)
Amiable, family-friendly Fabiano’s is a tried and tested gringo hangout but garners a following among Ecuadorians too. Pizzas are generous and tasty. Try the stodge-fest which is lasagne pizza – should it prove too much, these guys’ll willingly wrap it up for you for take home.
Mangiare BeneITALIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-282-6233; cnr Estevez de Toral & Bolívar; mains $6-9; hnoon-3pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-3pm Sun)
The Italian place worth knowing about in Cuenca is this sophisticated spot below Hostal Posada del Angel, although it’s more about artfully made pastas than pizza. Good wine list.
Akelarre Tapas EspañolasSPANISH$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Torres 8-40; plates $3-10; h11am-10pm Mon-Fri, 3-5pm Sat; W)
Akelarre serves petite plates of Spanish classics such as papas bravas (spicy fried spuds) and Galician squid, not to mention a delicious paella, in a cozy and classy interior.
IT’S NOT A PANAMA, IT’S A MONTECRISTI
For well over a century, Ecuador has endured the world mistakenly crediting another country with its most famous export – the panama hat. To any Ecuadorian worth his or her salt, the panama hat is a sombrero de paja toquilla (toquilla-straw hat), and to the connoisseur it’s a Montecristi, named after the most famous hat-making town of all. It’s certainly not a paaa…
The origin of this misnomer – surely one of the world’s greatest – dates to the 1800s, when Spanish entrepreneurs, quick to recognize the unrivaled quality of sombreros de paja toquilla, began exporting them via Panama. During the 19th century, workers on the Panama Canal used these light and extremely durable hats to protect themselves from the tropical sun, helping to solidify the association with Panama.
Paja toquilla hats are made from the fibrous fronds of the toquilla palm (Carludovica palmata), which grows in the arid inland regions of the central Ecuadorian coast, particularly around Montecristi and Jipijapa. A few Asian and several Latin American countries have tried to grow the palm to compete with the Ecuadorian hat trade, but none could duplicate the quality of the fronds grown here.
The work that goes into these hats is astonishing. First the palms are harvested for their shoots, which are ready just before they open into leaves. Bundles of shoots are then transported by donkey and truck to coastal villages where the fibers are prepared.
The preparation process begins with beating the shoots on the ground and then splitting them by hand to remove the long, thin, flat, cream-colored leaves. The leaves are tied into bundles and boiled in huge vats of water for about 20 minutes before being hung to dry for three days. Some are soaked in sulfur for bleaching. As the split leaves dry, they shrink and roll up into the round strands that are used for weaving.
Some of the finished straw stays on the coast, but most is purchased by buyers from Cuenca and surrounding areas, where it is woven into hats. Indeed, you’ll see more panama hats in and around Cuenca than you’ll see anywhere else in Ecuador.
The weaving process itself is arduous, and the best weavers work only in the evening and early in the morning, before the heat causes their fingers to sweat. Some work only by moonlight. Weaves vary from a loose crochet (characteristic of the hats you see sold everywhere) to a tighter ‘Brisa’ weave, which is used for most quality panama hats.
Hats are then graded by the density of their weaves, which generally fall into four categories: standard, superior, fino (fine) and superfino (superfine). Most hats you see are standard or superior. If you hold a real superfino up to the light, you shouldn’t see a single hole. The best of them will hold water, and some are so finely woven and so pliable that they can supposedly be rolled up and pulled through a man’s ring!
After the hats are woven, they still need to be trimmed, bleached (if they’re to be white), blocked and banded. Then they’re ready to sell. Although standard-grade hats start at around $15 in Ecuador, a superfino can cost anywhere between $100 and $500. While it may seem expensive, the same hat will easily fetch three times that amount on shelves in North America and Europe. And considering the work that goes into a superfino, it rightly should.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Cuenca has a lot of nightlife on offer: pick from intimate taverns with live music to Hollywood-style clubs catering to the hook-up scene. Discos are open Thursday through Saturday nights from 10pm, but things don’t really get moving until around midnight. Bars are generally open nightly, often as early as 5pm.
A good bet for a wild night out is Presidente Córdova around Hermano Miguel and along Calle Larga from Benigno Malo right down to Av Todos los Santos: bar-clubs with dance floors, dressed-up 20-somethings and myriad themes.
Many of the town’s museums offer theater and cultural performances, and the galleries in the El Vado neighborhood are also worth checking out. Movies cost about $4 per person and are listed in Cuenca’s newspaper El Mercurio.
Jodoco Belgian BrewCRAFT BEER
(MAP; %097-909-3186; www.jodocobelgianbrew.com; Sucre, next to Church of San Sebastián; h4pm-midnight Tue, from 11am Wed-Sat; W)
Blessedly authentic Belgian beer, brewed in Cuenca and served alongside lovely bistro fare, is poured at this plaza-side spot with patio seating. A jazz soundtrack and clean, moody interior set the scene for a relaxed sip of craft beer bliss.
La CompañíaBREWERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %099-887-4099; cnr Borrero & Vásquez; h4pm-11:30pm Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
Cuenca’s first microbrewery is still the best (but only by a beer mat’s breadth) – it caters to a young rocker crowd and offers up decent hand-crafted stouts, Irish reds and golden brews. And if you’re not into beer, they do great cocktails as well.
La ParolaLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Larga & Hermano Miguel; h4:30pm-2am Tue-Sat)
Food and cocktails complement a great variety of live music at this hangout high on the cliffs of Barranco. It’s right above the La Escalinata staircase.
WunderbarBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-283-1274; Escalinata 3-43; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri, 3pm-2am Sat)
This Austrian-owned place is wunderful if you want a classic bar with big wooden tables to sit around with friends. Food is served, and there’s a happy ‘hour’ from 11am to 6pm. They have an American pool table and big-screen sports.
3Entertainment
oJazz Society CaféJAZZ
(MAP; %in English 093-934-2714, in Spanish 099-588-8796; jazzsocietyofecuador@gmail.com; 5-101 Cordero, near Jaramillo; h6:30-10pm Wed-Sat)
The performance venue of the Jazz Society of Ecuador provides soothing aural therapy with Ecuadorian musicians as well as international artists. The Jazz Society also cultivates young local talent, and though there’s rarely a cover charge, a humble donation of $5 is suggested – a bargain for the caliber of performances hosted here.
La Mesa SalsotecaDANCE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %07-421-3276; Gran Colombia 03-35; h9pm-2am Wed, to 3am Fri)
The place to show off or refine your salsa moves, but don’t expect to get going until late.
MulticinesCINEMA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.multicines.com.ec; Astudillo, Milenium Plaza)
Get your stadium seats, buckets of popcorn and blockbuster Hollywood flicks in English (with Spanish subtitles).
7Shopping
Cuenca is the center of the paja toquilla (toquilla straw, or ‘panama’) hat trade. Cuencano nested baskets, gold- and silver-filigreed jewelry from the nearby village of Chordeleg, and ceramics of varying quality are typical finds. Cuenca’s markets are some of the best places to pick up these products.
Casa del Sombrero Alberto PullaHATS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %099-519-1987; Tarqui 6-91; h8am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat)
The hats of Cuenca’s most famous hatter have graced the noggins of Presidents, celebrities and hundreds of local indigenous women. Alberto Pulla himself died in 2010; his legacy has not.
Plaza de San Francisco MarketMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Padre Aguirre & Presidente Córdova; h8am-5pm)
The Plaza de San Francisco Market has an interesting combination of basketry, ceramics, ironwork, wooden utensils, plastic trinkets, gaudy religious paraphernalia and guinea pig roasters (great gift for Mom, but tough to get home). It also has a large contingent of otavaleños (people from Otavalo) selling sweaters and weavings on its north side.
Homero Ortega P & HijosHATS
(%07-280-9000; www.homeroortega.com; Gil Ramirez Davalos 03-86; h8am-12:30pm & 2:30-6pm Mon-Thu, 8am-12:30pm Fri & Sat)
More akin to a hat emporium, this is Ecuador’s best-known hat seller. The company exports around the world and has a huge selection of high-quality straw hats. They now have a fascinating museum charting the history and manufacture of hats, where you can see each part of the complex production process. Located a block north of the bus station.
CEMUARTMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Centro Municipal Artesanal; %07-284-5854; Torres 7-33; h9am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat, to 1pm Sun)
On the west side of the Plaza de San Francisco is this artisan market, which houses more than 100 craft stalls selling handmade musical instruments, embroidered clothing, baskets, jewelry and more.
Mercado de Artesanias RotaryMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Sangurima, btwn Cueva & Machuca; h8am-7pm)
Basketry, ceramics, wooden utensils, plastic trinkets, religious paraphernalia and decorative souvenirs can be purchased at this low-pressure, pleasant outdoor market.
Eduardo VegaCERAMICS
(%07-281-7177; www.ceramicavega.com; Vía a Turi 201; h8am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-1:30pm Sat & Sun)
Just below the Mirador de Turi – and 4km south of the center – is the home, workshop and studio of Eduardo Vega, Ecuador’s most important ceramic artist. His colorful terracotta and enamel murals grace walls all over Cuenca and the rest of Ecuador. Sculpture, vases and plates are for sale.
MAKIARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP; %07-282-0529; maki@fairtrade.ec; Sucre 14-96, near Talbot; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun)
Featuring high-quality textiles, baskets, clothing, jewelry and ceramics, this fair-trade shop is a wonderful showcase from which to scoop up souvenirs you can feel good about.
Carolina BookstoreBOOKS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Hermano Miguel 4-46; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat)
Carolina has the best selection of English-language books around, plus maps and a wealth of local info. They offer Spanish lessons, too.
8Information
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Cuenca is pretty safe for a bigger city. This said, at night it’s best to walk on well-lit streets. The area around Plaza San Francisco can get slightly sketchy after dark.
Police Station (%07-284-0476; Plaza de San Francisco; h8am-8pm)
LAUNDRY
La Química (cnr Borrero & Presidente Córdova; per kg $1; h8am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
Lavandería Nieves (Calle Larga 11-55; per kg $1)
MEDICAL SERVICES
Clínica Hospital Monte Sinaí (%07-288-5595; www.hospitalmontesinai.org; cnr Av Solano & Miguel Cordero) An excellent clinic with some English-speaking staff.
POST
Post Office (cnr Borrero & Gran Colombia)
TOURIST INFORMATION
Tourist Office (iTur; %07-282-1035; Mariscal Sucre, near Luís Cordero; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, 8:30am-1:30pm Sun) Friendly and helpful; English spoken.
Airport Terminal Information Office (%07-286-2203)
Bus Terminal Information Office (%07-282-4811)
USEFUL WEBSITES
www.cuenca.com.ec Cuenca’s tourism website.
www.cuencanos.com Loads of Cuenca information, mostly in Spanish.
www.gringotree.com Aimed at resident expats but good English info on a variety of topics.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Cuenca’s Aeropuerto Mariscal Lamar (%07-286-2095, 07-286-7120; www.aeropuertocuenca.ec; Av España) is 2km from the heart of town and just 500m from the Terminal Terrestre bus station. TAME (%07-286-2193, 07-286-6400; www.tame.com.ec; Aeropuerto Mariscal Lamar; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat, 6-8pm Sun) has daily flights to Quito ($99 to $131) and Guayaquil ($73 to $150).
BUS
Cuenca’s main bus station is Terminal Terrestre (Av España), about 1.5km from downtown, across the street from the airport. It has daily buses to Ingapirca and Gualaceo, Chordeleg and Sigsig.
Two routes go to Guayaquil: the shorter via Parque Nacional Cajas and Molleturo ($8, four hours), and the longer via La Troncal and Cañar ($8, five hours).
Services are frequent on all routes.
BUSES FROM CUENCA’S TERMINAL TERRESTRE
| DESTINATION | COST ($) | DURATION (HR) |
|---|---|---|
| Alausí | 6 | 4–5 |
| Ambato | 9 | 7 |
| Azogues | 0.75 | ¾ |
| Gualaquiza (via Sigsig) | 10 | 7 |
| Guayaquil | 8 | 4–5 |
| Huaquillas | 7 | 5 |
| Latacunga | 10 | 8½ |
| Loja | 7.50 | 4 |
| Macas (via Guarumales) | 10.95 | 7 |
| Machala | 5.50 | 4–5 |
| Piura (Peru) | 15 | 10 (via Machala) to 14 (via Macará) |
| Quito | 12 | 9 |
| Riobamba | 7 | 5–6 |
| Saraguro | 5 | 3 |
| Sigsig | 1.50 | 1½ |
| Zamora | 10.50 | 6 |
CAR
The national chain Localiza (%1-800-562-254, 07-280-3193/8) rents economy cars and 4WDs at the airport.
8Getting Around
Regular buses head downtown ($0.25) from in front of Terminal Terrestre. From downtown to the terminal, take any bus marked ‘Terminal’ from stops on Padre Aguirre near the flower market. Taxis cost about $2 between downtown and the airport or the bus terminal – or it’s a 20-minute walk.
Local buses for Turi ($0.25), 4km south of the center, go along Avenida Solano – or a taxi is $5.
Around Cuenca
%07
Cuenca is an easy base for day trips to indigenous villages in the surrounding area. Many are invested in community-based tourism, so you can support local people by hiring local guides and buying traditional crafts. Gualaceo, Chordeleg and Sigsig can all be done together in one day, while Principal, Cajas and the ruins at Ingapirca are separate day trips of their own.
Parque Nacional Cajas
Parque Nacional Cajas (Cajas National Park; %07-237-0126; h8am-4:30pm) F is only 30km west of Cuenca and encompasses 2854 sq km of golden-green, moor-like páramo (mountainous Andean grasslands) dotted with hundreds of chilly lakes that shine like jewels against a rough, otherworldly countryside.
This extremely wet and foggy area feeds rivers that flow into Cuenca and is considered a major conservation area for birds, mammals and flora: in fact, this is the most biologically diverse portion of páramo in the entire Andes range.
Especially important are small forests of Polylepis trees that are found in sheltered hollows and natural depressions. Polylepis trees have adapted to grow at higher elevations than almost any other tree in the world, making this one of the highest forests on earth. And wandering into one of these dense dwarf forests is like entering a Brothers Grimm fairy tale.
1Sights
The park is named Cajas, according to some folks, because the park’s lakes look (rather dubiously) like cajas (boxes). More likely, the name comes from caxas, the Kichwa word for cold. And cold it is … so cold that getting lost, which is easy to do, is a rather dangerous proposition. Night temperatures can drop below freezing, especially in the dry season. Driest months are August to January, but it can rain anytime. Altitudes within the park vary between 3000m and 4300m.
Three main recreational areas, all at scenic lakes, lie along the Cuenca–Molleturo road: Laguna Llaviucu, which is closest to Cuenca and has a control; Laguna Cucheros; and Laguna Toreadora, which has an information center. A second control appears at Quinuas, 3km west of Cucheros. The controls provide free topographical trail maps, which are also available at the tourist information office in Cuenca.
Outside the designated areas around Laguna Llaviucu, Cucheros and Toreadora, groups of eight or more are required to be accompanied by a guide, and all hikers outside these areas must register with the ranger stations (they must also carry a GPS or compass). Currently no overnight hiking trips may be conducted without an approved guide from Cuenca or the park itself. Most of the operators listed under ‘Tours’ in Cuenca can arrange a guide.
4Sleeping
Camping at any of the three recreational areas costs $4. Refugios (mountain refuges) and cabins are available, but they fill up fast and do not accept reservations. Call the park administration for the latest information.
8Getting There & Away
Cajas is accessible along two routes. The controls at Laguna Llaviucu and Laguna Cucheros are on the northern route, which is also the first leg of the highway journey to Guayaquil via Molleturo. A bumpy southern road passes the villages of Soldados, where there is a control, and Angas.
Transportes Occidental buses ($1.25, one hour) bound for Guayaquil leave from Terminal Terrestre in Cuenca every day at 6:15am, 7am, 8am, 10am, noon, 1:30pm, 2:30pm, 4:10pm and 5:45pm. To return to Cuenca, flag any passing Cuenca-bound bus.
Buses for Soldados ($1.50, 1¼ hours) and Angas ($2, 1¾ hours) leave from the El Vado bridge in Cuenca at 6am and return in the afternoon.
You can also take a taxi (around $70 for the day) or visit on a day trip with one of the tour agencies in Cuenca.
Ingapirca
%07 / Elev 3150m
Ecuador’s most preserved archaeological site, Ingapirca (%07-221-7107; www.complejoingapirca.gob.ec; entry incl guided tour $2; h8am-6pm), with its semi-intact temple, grazing llamas and open fields, is definitely worth a stopover if you are headed this way. The ruins were originally used by the Cañari people as an observatory. The strategic site was later taken over and developed by the Inca during the 15th century as a military stronghold.
Unfortunately, the Spanish carted away much of Ingapirca’s stone to build nearby cities. What’s left of the site is still important to the indigenous Cañari, and they now control the administration of the ruins and the museum (admission included with Ingapirca) displaying Inca and Cañari artifacts.
The centerpiece of the site is the Temple of the Sun, a large structure that was originally used for ceremonies and solar observation. Nearby, signs point to pits called colcas that were used to store food and to the acllahuasi, the place where the ceremonial, and ultimately sacrificial, virgins lived. The trapezoidal niches you see in the stonework are identical to those found in other ruins, such as Machu Picchu in Peru and San Agustín de Callo near Latacunga.
Agencies in Cuenca organize day trips to the site, starting at $50 per person. Serious hikers won’t want to miss the three-day Camino del Inca trek.
4Sleeping & Eating
There are some very good, simple cafes and restaurants near the site entrance.
Posada IngapircaHACIENDA$$$
(%07-283-1120, 07-282-7401; www.posadaingapirca.com; s/d incl breakfast $67/91; pW)
A brisk walk uphill from the archaeological site, this converted hacienda offers cozy lodgings with fireplaces and an alpine garden setting. Check online for discounts, and consider booking a package that includes a stay at their sister hotel in Cuenca.
8Getting There & Away
Cooperativa Cañar buses ($3.50, two hours) go direct from Cuenca, leaving at 9am and 12:20pm and returning from Ingapirca to Cuenca at 1pm and 3:45pm. Buses also leave every half-hour from Cuenca for El Tambo, located 8km below Ingapirca. From El Tambo, buses leave about every half-hour to Ingapirca, or take a taxi ($5).
CAMINO DEL INCA
Though it sees only a fraction of the traffic of the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, the three-day trek to Ingapirca is popular. For approximately 40km, it follows the original Ingañan Incan royal road that linked Cuzco with Tomebamba (at present-day Cuenca) and Quito. In its heyday, this transportation and communication network rivaled that of the Roman Empire.
The starting point for the hike is Achupallas, 23km southeast of Alausí. From there, the Trail climbs, passing rivers and lakes and eventually the ruins of an Incan town. The next day takes you past the ruins of an Incan bridge and a large structure at Paredones, where some walls are still standing. At times you’ll be able to easily make out the Ingañan itself. On the third day the hike lets out at the magnificent ruins at Ingapirca.
You’ll need a GPS and three 1:50,000 topographical maps (Alausí, Juncal and Cañar), available at the Instituto Geográfico Militar (IGM) in Quito. Also be prepared for extremely persistent begging from children; most travelers refuse to hand anything out in order to discourage begging.
To get to Achupallas, take one of the daily midday buses from Alausí or, more reliably, hire a taxi-pickup for about $10 to $15 one-way. Alternatively, south-bound Panamericana buses from Alausí can drop you at La Moya (also known as Guasuntos), where you can wait for passing trucks headed to Achupallas, 12km up a slim mountain road. You can hire guides in Achupallas for $30 to $40 per day, or Julio Verne Tour Operator in Riobamba runs trips for about $320 per person. If you want to go on your own, check out a hiking guide, such as Ecuador: Climbing and Hiking Guide by Rob Rachowiecki and Mark Thurber.
Gualaceo, Chordeleg & Sigsig
If you start early, you could easily visit the Sunday markets at all three of these towns and be back in Cuenca for happy hour. Between them all you’ll find many traditional handicrafts: woven baskets, fine gold and silver filigreed jewelry, woodwork, pottery, guitars and ikat textiles – made using a pre-Columbian technique of weaving tie-dyed threads.
GUALACEO
%07 / Pop 13,981 / Elev 2591m
Along the banks of a small, swift-moving river lies the craft-shopper’s paradise of Gualaceo. Ikat weavings and paños (indigo-dyed cotton shawls with intricate macramé fringe) are especially sought-after here.
1Sights
La Casa de la MakanaHANDICRAFTS
(%099-569-9163; Sector San Pedro de los Olivos) F
Visit La Casa de la Makana to see how makanas shawls are made, and how the different dyes are mixed. These are sought-after items: one makana can take days or even weeks to produce. Quality makanas are on sale for about $40.
5Eating
Mercado 25 de JunioECUADORIAN$
(cnr Cuenca & Vicente Peña Reyes)
For lunch in Gualaceo, try the Mercado 25 de Junio, two blocks north and then three east of the main plaza.
8Information
On Gualaceo’s main plaza, the Tourist Information Office (iTur; %07-225-5131, 098-437-0632; 7-68 Gran Colombia; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) can provide good info on nearby hiking and adventure opportunities.
CHORDELEG
%07 / Pop 4209
About 10km south of Gualaceo, hilly Chordeleg has been an important jewelry-making center since before the arrival of the Inca. Its characteristic style is fine filigree. Fakery is common, however, so know how to discern high-quality gold before laying out the big bucks.
Chordeleg also produces wood carvings, pottery, textiles and plenty of panama hats.
1Sights
MuseumMUSEUM
(h8am-5pm Tue-Sun) F
On the central plaza, this small museum details the history and techniques of wood carvings, pottery, textiles and panama hats, and sells some locally made work.
4Sleeping
Hostal Colonial ChordelegGUESTHOUSE$
(%07-222-3486; www.hostalcolonialchordeleg.com; cnr Guayaquil & 24 de Mayo; r per person incl breakfast $25; pW)
This colonial abode near Chordeleg’s main plaza is a comfortable base. The owner can also arrange overnight horseback trips into the waterfall-laden countryside (per person $55).
SIGSIG
%07 / Pop 3330
About 26km south of Gualaceo lies Sigsig (2684m), a charming vestige of a colonial-era indigenous town, best known for its panama hats.
8Getting There & Away
From Cuenca’s Terminal Terrestre bus terminal, buses leave every half-hour to Gualaceo ($0.90, one hour), Chordeleg ($1, one hour) and Sigsig ($1.50, 1½ hours). Buses run from town to town for $0.50 and can be flagged down from the main street. For Sigsig, you might need to change in Gualaceo.
Saraguro
%07 / Pop 9045 / Elev 2520m
Surrounded by emerald hills that have been sown with hearty tubers and grains for thousands of years, Saraguro, 165km south of Cuenca, is the center of indigenous Saraguro culture. This prosperous and proud indigenous group originally lived near Lake Titicaca in Peru but ended up here in the 1470s as a result of the Inca Empire’s system of resettlement, or mitimaes.
Saraguro’s excellent community tourism projects are applauded across Ecuador – there are few better places in South America to go off grid and authentically experience indigenous highland culture.
1Sights & Activities
The villages around Saraguro, most within a half-hour walk or 10-minute bus ride ($0.20), are full of outdoor and cultural activities. Buses to any of these places leave from the main square in front of the cathedral: information is available at Operadora de Turismo Comunitario Saraurku.
Las LagunasVILLAGE
Tupus and textiles are made in the community of Las Lagunas, making this an interesting cultural excursion. Catch a bus ($0.20, 10 minutes) from the main road, or get walking directions at Saraurku.
TuncartaVILLAGE
The community of Tuncarta is known for producing fine Saraguro hats. Catch a bus ($0.20, 10 minutes) from the main road, or get walking directions at Saraurku.
Baños del InkaWATERFALL
($2.50)
Just north of town on the Panamericana, this nature area has impressive waterfalls and large rock formations.
Sunday MarketMARKET
(h7am-2pm Sun)
The Sunday market draws Saraguros – dressed finely for the occasion – from the surrounding countryside. None of the several ATMs in town accept cards issued by Visa, so arrive with the cash you need.
Bosque Protegido WashapambaHIKING
($2.50)
The Washapamba Forest Reserve, just south of town, is great for hiking.
WORTH A TRIP
DIY ADVENTURES OUTSIDE OF CUENCA
There are plenty of DIY adventures to be had from Cuenca in the nearby towns of Baños, Girón, Jima and Paute. Here are some hints to get you started.
Paute Good mountain biking and hiking are to be found at this seldom-visited town 41km northeast of Cuenca off the road to Gualaceo. It’s an easy day trip from Cuenca, but staying the night will help out the community more.
Azogues The bustling capital of Cañar province, 33km north of Cuenca, has a distinctive church and a Saturday market where woven panama hats are sold – and sent to Cuenca for the finishing touches.
Biblián The huge church of Santuario de la Virgen del Rocio (Sanctuary of the Virgen of the Dew) is carved dramatically into a sheer cliff above this little town, 6km north of Azogues, and is the site of a huge pilgrimage on September 8 (and another on Good Friday). Cuenca to Cañar buses pass by.
Cañar 32km north of Azogues, this dusty town is interesting to visit on Sundays for the lively market. The Cañari people – wearing their colorful woolens – gather; the men wear their distinctive chumbis (woven belts decorated with indigenous/Catholic motifs). These can be bought on the market and in the town prison, where inmates sell them (you’ll be allowed in to make purchases).
Baños Just outside Cuenca, this small village has thermal springs and a neat little church.
Girón Some 43km southwest of Cuenca on the road to Machala, Girón offers hiking to a 60m waterfall. After busing it here from Cuenca, hire a truck for $5 to take you to the waterfall. Hire a guide from the first waterfall to take you to two hidden falls nearby.
Jima This peaceful agrarian village two hours south of Cuenca serves up easy access to a neighboring cloud forest in a community-run reserve. There’s a hostal and information center in town where you can arrange a guide. Get here by bus from Cuenca.
TTours
Operadora de Turismo Comunitario SaraurkuCULTURAL
(%07-220-0331, 098-694-1852; www.turismosaraguro.com; cnr 18 de Noviembre & Loja; h8:30am-6pm Mon-Fri)
One block west of the main plaza, this community-based tour operator also serves as a tourist information center. They can arrange day trips to nearby sites, horseback-riding and mountain-biking trips, and visits to the Saraguro communities in the Amazon for $50 to $120 per person per day. English-speaking guides are available with advance notice.
DRESS LIKE A SARAGURO
During the last century, Saraguros have relocated (this time, of their own accord) to significantly lower altitudes to the southwest and often alongside Shuar communities in the Ecuadorian Amazon. In both the chilly mountains and humid lowlands, the Saraguro dress in traditional woolens. Women wear broad-brimmed black or white hats, long pleated skirts, ornate pins called tupus and elaborate beaded collars known as chakiras. Men wear fedora-like black hats, black ponchos and knee-length black shorts, and they may also don small white aprons and woven, double-pouch shoulder bags called alforjas.
Each part of this attire is an important craft tradition, maintained in nearby communities, which are fun to visit – for their stunning scenery, as well as for cultural reasons.
4Sleeping & Eating
oHostal Achik WasiHOTEL$$
(%07-220-0058; Intiñan, Barrio La Luz; r per person incl breakfast $23; pW)
A 10-minute walk up and out of town (taxi $1), this large adobe-and-wood hostal is by far the best place to stay. It has comfortable, clean rooms with thick wool blankets and beamed ceilings. The great views and charming service are also big pluses. It’s part of a well-run tourism project that benefits the community.
TupayECUADORIAN$
(%096-971-4663; 10 de Marzo & Vivar; dishes $1-16; h8am-10pm Sun-Fri) 
S
Serving up typical Ecuadorian fare from tamales to full almuerzos (set lunches), community-based restaurant Tupay utilize as many organic ingredients as they possibly can, in the process educating local farmers on sustainable techniques and benefits. They compost, buy most ingredients locally and brew a mean cuppa (with Loja beans).
Mamá CucharaECUADORIAN$
(Parque Central; mains $3; h8am-5pm Sun-Fri, to 3pm Sat)
‘Mother Spoon,’ as the name aptly means, serves up hearty, tasty meals right on the main plaza. Money goes to the indigenous women’s association that runs it.
oShamuiCo Espai GastronòmicFUSION$$
(%07-220-0590; shamuicorestaurant@gmail.com; cnr Loja & 10 de Marzo; small dishes $2-6; h11am-10pm Wed-Sat, to 9pm Sun)
A surprising find in Saraguro, this unpretentiously sophisticated spot is run by a local chef who trained in some of Europe’s best restaurants. Bold cuisine falls somewhere along the lines of highland Ecuadorian tapas.
8Getting There & Away
Any Loja-bound bus from Cuenca will drop you a block from Saraguro’s main plaza ($5, three hours, hourly). Buses to Loja ($2.10, 1½ hours) leave hourly-ish during the day. The bus office is a block from the main plaza, at Azuay and El Oro.
Loja
%07 / Pop 181,000 / Elev 2100m
Once upon a time, Loja was the thriving base from which Spanish conquistadors sallied forth to explore the jungle just over the mountains. Loja’s main lure will always be its proximity to one of Ecuador’s most diverse protected areas, the vast Parque Nacional Podocarpus, spanning chilly highland páramo (grassland) and sweltering jungle within its wild confines (and, indeed, the chilled traveler hangout of Vilcabamba just south of town).
But Loja boasts plenty of bait itself. Its cuisine, its musical traditions and its university are known across Ecuador and beyond. Its streets, although traffic-clogged and a tad tame after Cuenca, offer inroads into the local culture its more famous rival to the north cannot. Lying dramatically along the bottom of the Valle de Cuxibamba, Loja’s surrounding slopes are fringed with the country’s main coffee plantations, and several miradors (viewpoints) offer unforgettable city views.
1Sights
From the ornate Puerta de la Ciudad at the northern entrance to the historical center, an inviting series of parks and plazas pepper the ensuing blocks, offering plenty of diversion along the way.
City Center
oPuerta de la CiudadMONUMENT
(MAP; Door to the City; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat, 9am-7pm Sun) F
With perhaps more pomp and circumstance than you’ll encounter anywhere else in Loja, the City Gate greets you into downtown from the northern corner. It’s a giant castle with an arched doorway spanning Sucre, a street forging south (from the confluence of Ríos Zamora and Malacatus) towards the central plazas.
Inside, the helpful staff, second-floor archaeological museum, cafe and several lookouts orchestrate an ideal intro to the city.
oMuseo de la MúsicaMUSEUM
(MAP; Valdivieso 09-42; h8am-2pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri) F
This fun museum located in an old school explores the lives of famous musicians who hailed from Loja (most peaking in success during the golden 1890–1940 period). Many old instruments and scores of music are on display, and a shop here (often closed) sells music.
Parque CentralPLAZA
(MAP)
Loja’s main square is always busy with shoeshine boys, newspaper vendors and local devotees stepping into the cathedral MAP for their daily devotions to the Virgen del Cisne.
Museo de la Cultura LojanaMUSEUM
(MAP; 10 de Agosto 13-30; h8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) F
On the south side of Loja’s Parque Central square, a characterful republican-era building houses this museum and its exhibits, which include good local art, archaeology and ethnography. Most interesting are the old photographs of Loja and the room devoted to the Saraguro culture.
Museo del Monasterio de Madres ConcepcionistasMUSEUM
(MAP; 10 de Agosto; $1; h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri)
A half-block east of Parque Central, this monastery has three public rooms housing religious treasures from the 16th to 18th centuries.
Plaza Santo DomingoPLAZA
(MAP; cnr Valdivieso & Rocafuerte)
Make a beeline a block south of Parque Central for this plaza, mainly notable for the Church of Santo Domingo, adorned with religious paintings.
Plaza de la IndependenciaPLAZA
(MAP; Plaza of Independence; cnr Alonso de Mercadillo & Valdivieso)
The plaza is hemmed in by the Church of San Sebastián and colonial-era buildings with pillared overhangs and shuttered wooden balconies. A brightly tiled fountain depicts Ecuadorian wildlife.
Calle LourdesSTREET
(MAP)
This narrow lane is the oldest colonial street in Loja. There are some nice art galleries here (if only the street were pedestrianized, they would be much more tempting to linger in).
Outside the City Center
Mirador TeléfericoVIEWPOINT
Loja’s best viewpoint is at the top of the cable car from Parque Pucará, 1km south of Plaza de la Independencia up Olmedo. Walk or get a taxi ($1) to the cable car base. Tourist robberies have happened on the trail which goes up from the park, so taking the cable car, and not taking valuables, is highly recommended.
Parque Universitario PUEARPARK
(Parque Universitario de Educación Ambiental y Recreación; %302-7795; https://puear-unl.jimdo.com/; $1; h9am-4pm)
Almost 5km south of the center, the 90-hectare reserve has excellent trails. You’ll need to cab it here ($1.25).
Parque Recreacional JipiroPARK
(Santiago de las Montañas, near Salvador Bustamante)
North of town, this kid-friendly park offers a giant chessboard, a skate park, a Chinese pagoda, a pint-size Kremlin, small animal enclosures and a paddleboat pond. Green buses ($0.25) go there from the southeast corner of Eguiguren and Peña.
TTours
ExploravesBIRD-WATCHING
(MAP; %098-515-2239, 07-258-2434; www.exploraves.com; Lourdes 14-80; tours per day from $80)
Offers bird-watching tours in Podocarpus, as well as tours to Mindo and other areas.
zFestivals & Events
El Día de La Virgen del CisneRELIGIOUS
(h20 Aug)
Huge processions mark this Catholic festival.
Independence of LojaCIVIC
(h18 Nov)
The celebrations may go on for a week.
4Sleeping
Hotel LondresHOSTEL$
(MAP; %07-256-1936; Sucre 07-51; r without bathroom per person $6; W)
With creaky wooden floors and saggy beds, Hotel Londres is as basic as they come, but it’s a tried-and-true travelers’ favorite, with spotless shared bathrooms and friendly young owners. Get a room with French doors that open above the street.
Hotel MetropolitanoHOTEL$
(MAP; %07-257-0007; 18 de Noviembre 06-31; r per person $15; W)
The Metropolitano is a decent budget option: comfortable rooms with hardwood floors, decent beds and cable TV. It’s dark, though, so try to score a window.
Zamorano Real HotelBUSINESS HOTEL$$
(MAP; %07-257-0921; http://zamoranorealhotel.com; Riofrío, btwn Sucre & Bolívar; s/d/ste $46/75/86; pW)
A small step down in class from the Grand Victoria but a step up from everything else, the Zamorano is the business choice – smart and slick and delivering exactly what you’d expect such a place to do. There is a good, if slightly soulless, restaurant. Suites have Jacuzzis.
Floy’s International HotelHOTEL$$
(MAP; %07-257-3821; www.hotelfloysinternacional.com; cnr 18 de Noviembre & Valdivieso; s/d $30/40 incl breakfast; pW)
The welcome may be the only aspect of Floy’s likely to get international respect but this personable hotel does offer incredibly good value for big, clean rooms – some of which have nice murals – and a pleasant cafeteria.
Hostal Aguilera InternacionalHOTEL$$
(MAP; %07-257-2892; hostal_aguilera@hotmail.com; Sucre 01-08 y Ortega; s/d/tr incl breakfast $25/40/50; pW)
International is a slight overstatement. But this is family-owned, it is right next to Puerta de la Ciudad and it has nice, well-lit rooms.
Hosteria Quinta MontañaCABIN$$
(%07-257-8895; Barrio Colinas del Norte; s/d $25/45; pW
s)
City address; countrified experience – 2km north of the bus terminal, serene Hosteria Quinta Montaña’s well-kept cabins skitter down a steep hillside. Grounds include a nice restaurant, a great pool and even a sauna. Swinging on a hammock might be commonplace in the jungle but in Loja, doing so with such a lush view is the preserve of guests staying here.
Grand Victoria Boutique HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
(MAP; %07-258-3500; www.grandvictoriabh.com; cnr Valdivieso & Eguiguren; s/d incl breakfast $116/140; p
aiWs)
Bringing the ‘boutique hotel experience’ to Loja, the Grand Victoria remembers all the little details, like bathrobes and rose petals, 800-thread-count cotton sheets and aromatherapy in the pool area. The rooms are supremely comfortable but lack the charm of the common areas. The service, including in the three international restaurants, is far above par.
BOUNTIFUL BEANS
Compared to its neighbors, Colombia and Peru, Ecuador’s coffee production is small-scale, but where many believe it wins out over both is in its fine aroma. The Loja/Vilcabamba area is the powerhouse of the plantations producing these highly revered beans.
It’s the location that does it. The milder climates that circulate as the hills drop away into the humid lowlands create ideal coffee-growing conditions similar to those in Sumatra and Ethiopia. Coffee grown here produces a soft, smooth brew with just a note of acidity – vastly differing altitudes (800–2000m) ensure plenty of variety.
The best cantons for coffee growing hereabouts are Gonzanamá and Quilanga. Look out also for Zamora-Chinchipe province’s Río Mayo label: a chocolatey, creamy flavor permeates through, with maybe an inkling of citrus.
Caffeine fiends can begin their journey at Loja’s Equanativa or sign up for a coffee plantation trip at Vilcabamba’s La Tasca Tours.
5Eating
While Loja’s specialty dishes have long been talked of fondly, quality sit-down cafes/restaurants seemed light years away until recently – now, there are lots.
Loja’s biggest specialty, cuy (guinea pig), is commonly served on Sundays. Other local delights include cecina (salty fried pork served with yuca) and some of the country’s best humitas.
West of Bolívar, succulent grilled-chicken joints line Alonso de Mercadillo, where you can pick up a quarter-chicken with soup and fries for about $2.
Biscuit & CoCAFE$
(MAP; %07-256-5656; cnr 24 de Mayo & Rocafuerte; snacks $2-6; h10am-9pm Mon, from 9am Tue-Fri, from 4pm Sat)
It’s hard to say when we like dropping by this cute French-Ecuadorian place most: probably early evening, as a prequel to a night out. From organic teas to quiches and sweet treats, you’ll find something to tickle your taste buds.
El Tamal LojanoECUADORIAN$
(MAP; %07-258-2977; www.tamallojano.com; 18 de Noviembre 05-12; dishes $1-4, set lunches $2; h8am-8:30pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-noon & 3:30-8pm Sat & Sun)
The almuerzos (set lunches) are good, but the real reason to come to El Tamal Lojano is for the delicious quimbolitos, humitas, empanadas de verde and tamales lojanos – all the Loja region’s foodie classics. Order at the counter. There’s also a new branch on 24 de Mayo.
Lecka Bistro AlemánGERMAN$
(MAP; %07-256-3878; leckabistroaleman@yahoo.es; 24 de Mayo 10-51; meals from $5; h5pm-10:30pm Mon-Thu, to 11:30pm Fri)
Good, authentic German offerings (particularly the cakes and the beer!) in an intimate setting.
El Jugo NaturalJUICE BAR$
(MAP; %07-257-5256; eljugonaturalloja@gmail.com; Eguiguren 14-20; light meals $1-4; h7am-8pm)
Pure, all-natural juices, yogurt shakes and fruit salads make up the menu at this small cafe: Loja’s definitive breakfast stop and numero uno meeting-up spot for old-timers. It’s been in the juice business over 30 years.
oRiscomarSEAFOOD$$
(MAP; %07-258-5154; www.riscomarloja.com; cnr Rocafuerte & 24 de Mayo; mains $10; h9am-4pm & 7-10pm Mon-Sat, 9am-4pm Sun)
Serving some of Loja’s best seafood, Riscomar prepares delicious, Ecuadorian-style ceviche in a civilized dining room. The chivo en cerveza (goat in beer) is a surprise addition to the menu.
Dumas Trattoria & RestaurantePIZZA$$
(MAP; %07-256-1494; Eguiguren & Valdivieso; mains $5-13; hnoon-9pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)
Wood-fired pizzas, decent wines, homemade pasta and a cozy atmosphere give Dumas an edge over other pizza joints. House specialties include Argentine-style steak tenderloin with chimichurri, and chicken milanesa, with salads and other vegetarian options also on offer.
Dejà VuINTERNATIONAL$$
(MAP; %07-258-2347; Valdivieso 07-50, 3rd fl, Centro Comercial Colibrí; mains $7-19; hnoon-10:30pm Mon-Sat)
Service: indifferent. Meat and fish dishes: good. Views from the balcony over Parque Central: the best. Book at weekends if you want the best seats. It’s accessed via stairs within the shopping center below.
SOUTHERN DELIGHTS
For many Ecuadorians living overseas, nothing beckons them home more than the smell of corn- and plantain-based delicias (delights, or treats). They’re common throughout the highlands, but everyone knows that they’re better the closer you get to Loja. Many people wash them down with coffee or dress them with ají (hot sauce). Here’s a primer:
Humita A corn dumpling steamed in a corn husk. The sal (salty) versions come with cheese; the dulce (sweet) versions are often flavored with anise.
Quimbolito A light, sweet, corn-based cake steamed in achira leaves, usually topped with a raisin.
Tamales de Loja Close to a humita, but usually stuffed with shredded chicken.
Empanada A pocket of dough stuffed with sweet or savory fillings and fried to a golden, light crispiness. The masa (dough) in empanadas de verde is made with young plantain; empanadas de maíz are made of corn.
Tortilla de choclo A grilled pancake made with rough corn flour.
Maduro con queso A grilled, sweet plantain with cheese.
Bolón de verde A molded ball of young mashed plantain, fried with sausage.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Many cafes have unadvertised, low-key live music during the evenings.
oZarza Brewing CompanyMICROBREWERY
(%07-257-1413; www.zarzabrewing.com; cnr Puerto Bolívar & Esmeraldas; dishes $4-9; h4pm-midnight Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat)
In the El Valle neighborhood, this brewpub is as popular with locals as with Loja expats. The owner is Texan and clearly knows a thing or two about microbrewing and Mexican food. They do unusual-for-Ecuador brews such as lambics and Belgian wits, and make what are possibly Ecuador’s hottest barbecued ribs. A taxi here costs about $1.40.
oEquanativaCAFE
(MAP; %07-256-1830; Lourdes, btwn Peña & 24 de Mayo; h10am-1pm & 3:30-7:30pm Mon-Fri, 3:30-7:30pm Sat)
The region’s best caffeinated brews are served in this out-of-the-way little cafe, which also sells coffee by the bag. The owners are true experts on Loja coffee, and it’s a real treat to see the rich beans grown in the fincas (farms) hereabouts finally get showcased and served with aplomb.
El Viejo MineroPUB
(MAP; %07-258-5878; elviejominerobar@gmail.com; Sucre 10-76; h5pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
This rustic old watering hole is the perfect place for a relaxed beer and snacks in a friendly pub-like environment. Catch live music here on weekends.
8Information
EMERGENCY
Police Station (%07-257-5606; Valdivieso btwn Imbabura & Quito) Just north of the city center.
LAUNDRY
VIP Lavandería (Alonso de Mercadillo btwn Olmedo & Peña; per kilo $0.85; h8am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 3-6pm Sat)
MEDICAL SERVICES
Clinica San Augustin (%07-257-7339; www.hospitalclinicasanagustin.com; cnr 18 de Noviembre & Azuay; h24hr) Recommended hospital for foreigners.
MONEY
Banco de Guayaquil (Eguiguren, near Valdivieso) Bank with ATM.
Banco de Pichincha (cnr Bernado Valdivieso & 10 de Agosto) Functioning ATMs.
POST
Post Office (cnr Colón & Sucre)
TOURIST INFORMATION
Tourist Office (iTur; %07-258-1251/07-257-0485; cnr Bolívar & Eguiguren; h8am-6pm) Helpful, with some maps available.
Ministerio del Medio Ambiente (%ext 109 07-257-7125; Sucre 4-35, 3rd fl; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Responsible for administering Parque Nacional Podocarpus; provides information and simple maps.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Loja is served by La Toma airport in Catamayo, 30km to the west. Buses bound for Macará head there ($1.30). TAME (%07-257-0248; www.tame.com.ec; Av Ortega, near 24 de Mayo; h8:30am-1pm & 2:30-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12:15pm Sat) flies to/from Quito (from $86, Monday to Saturday) and Guayaquil (from $69, Monday to Friday).
BUS & TAXI
Almost all buses leave from the bus terminal (Terminal Terrestre Reina del Cisne; Av 8 de Diciembre), about 2km north of downtown. There is an iTur office here to help you.
Vilcabambaturis has fast minibuses to Vilcabamba ($1.30, 1¼ hours, every 30 minutes from 5:45am to 8:45pm). A faster way is via taxi colectivo (shared taxi; $2, 45 minutes), from Avenida Universitaria, about 10 blocks south of Mercadillo in Loja; ask a local taxi driver to take you to the Ruta 11 de Mayo taxi stop (cnr Aguirre & Mercadillo).
Huaquillas, the main border crossing to Peru, can be reached by a bus leaving at 5pm ($10, seven hours), so you can avoid backtracking to Machala. Loja is also a departure point for buses to southern border crossings into Peru via Macará and Zumba (now connected via a direct route from Loja to Jaén, Peru).
You can go directly to Piura (Peru) from Loja without stopping in Macará. The service ($13, nine hours) is offered with Loja International (%07-257-0505, 07-257-9014). The bus stops at the border, waits for passengers to take care of exit/entry formalities, then continues to Piura. It’s advisable to buy your tickets at least a day before you travel.
There are frequent bus services to most destinations.
DAILY BUSES FROM LOJA
| DESTINATION | COST ($) | DURATION (HR) |
|---|---|---|
| Ambato | 18 | 11 |
| Catamayo | 1.30 | ¾ |
| Cuenca | 7.50 | 5 |
| Gualaquiza | 7.50 | 6 |
| Guayaquil | 12 | 8–9 |
| Macará | 7.40 | 6 |
| Machala | 7 | 5 |
| Piura (Peru) | 13 | 9 |
| Quito | 17 | 14–15 |
| Riobamba | 11 | 9–10 |
| Zamora | 3 | 2 |
| Zumba | 10 | 6 |
8Getting Around
Most taxi rides in town will cost about $1.25. For the airport, ask your hotel to call a colectivo (shared taxi), which charges $5 per person for the 40-minute trip, or catch a bus to Catamayo ($1.30, 45 minutes) from the bus terminal.
LA VIRGEN DEL CISNE
Throughout Ecuador, but especially in Loja province, you’ll see figurines, shrines, pendants and all manner of trinkets dedicated to the Virgen del Cisne (Virgin of the Swan). According to legend, the Virgin Mary protected a medieval knight who appeared before his lover in a boat shaped like a swan. The knight’s chivalric acts and the Virgin’s kindly auspices inspired Franciscan monks so much that they erected statues of the ‘Virgen del Cisne’ throughout Europe. The Franciscans later hauled one of these statues to Ecuador, where she has been credited with miracles aplenty, mostly involving sickness and storms.
The Virgin you see today, installed by adoring campesinos (peasants) in 1594 in a little town also called El Cisne (70km west of Loja), wears gilded robes and a towering crown. This Virgin, the ‘original,’ lives in the town’s Santuario, a Gothic-style cathedral, most of the year. Virgens del Cisne in other parts of Ecuador wear vestments inspired by local indigenous costumes, or even the Ecuadorian flag (especially when the national soccer team is playing a big game).
A huge festival is held in the Virgin’s honor in El Cisne on August 15, after which thousands of pilgrims from Ecuador and northern Peru carry the statue on their shoulders to Loja, with many of the pilgrims walking the entire way. The Virgin finally arrives in Loja on August 20, where she is ceremoniously installed in the cathedral. On November 1, the process is repeated in reverse, and the Virgin rests in El Cisne until the following August. There is another major (if smaller) festival in El Cisne on May 30.
For most of the year, tours and buses make day trips to the village from Loja and Catamayo to see El Santuario and the statue. But on procession days, forget it! You walk like everybody else – the road is so full of pilgrims that vehicles can’t get through. In recent years, cyclists have taken to riding this gorgeous route through the mountains alongside the pilgrims. No matter how you go, this display of devotion always amazes.
Parque Nacional Podocarpus
Podocarpus National Park (refugios $3) F fills in much of the triangle between Loja, Zamora and Vilcabamba as well as a huge swath to the southeast. Because altitude ranges so greatly within the park borders – from around 900m in the lowland sector to over 3600m in the highland sector – Podocarpus has some of the world’s greatest plant and animal diversity. Perhaps 40% of its estimated 3000 plant species occur nowhere else in the world, and close to 600 bird species have been recorded. Rare mammals include foxes, deer, puma, mountain tapirs and bears.
1Sights
Podocarpus’ varied landscape is mesmerizing: high, windy páramo (grassland) that looks vaguely like a coral-rich sea floor; jewel-like lakes that sit in glacial depressions; fairy-tale woodland buffeted by harsh weather; and lush, towering forests seething with the hum of insects and birdlife.
The park is named for the giant Podocarpus, Ecuador’s only native conifer, but don’t bank on seeing one, or any larger animals, for that matter. Loggers stole most of the Podocarpus years ago, and the mammals have been hunted down to small populations driven deep into the forest. On top of these threats, which continue despite the park’s protected status, both legal and illegal mining and agriculture encroach on habitat throughout the park.
Birds, however, are found in abundance. In the highland sector, they include such exotic-sounding species as the lacrimose mountain tanager, streaked tuftedcheek, superciliaried hemispingus and pearled treerunner; the lowland sector is home to coppery-chested jacamar, white-breasted parakeet and paradise tanager. Rainfall in both sectors is heavy and frequent, so be prepared. October through December is the driest period.
Highlands Sector
Access to the highland sector of the park is through Cajanuma control, about 10km south of Loja. From here, a dirt road leads 8.5km uphill to the park office and adjacent refugio (cabin per person $3), which has seven basic cabañas with mattresses and a camping area.
From the refugio, several self-guided trails wend through the cloud forest. More strenuous and wide-ranging is the 5km Los Miradores loop trail, a four-hour hike up through the cloud forest and into the páramo (grasslands) – expect strong winds. Another trail that branches off the Miradores leads 14.5km to the highland lakes of Lagunas del Compadre and requires a minimum of three days’ round-trip for most hikers. There’s no water between the trailhead and the lakes.
The Ministerio del Medio Ambiente in Loja can provide detailed information, and the control (where you’ll sign in) has simple maps.
8Getting There & Away
Buses heading toward Vilcabamba cost $0.50. A taxi from Loja to the Cajanuma control is $5 – up to the park office/refugio it’s $10-15. It’s important to realize the difference: from the Cajanuma control on the Loja–Vilcabamba road it’s an 8.5km walk to the start point for the main trails; from the park office/refugio it’s 8.5 meters!
There is no transport offered between Cajanuma control and the park office/refugio. Set out from Loja early and you can hike for several hours before walking the 8.5km back to the Loja–Vilcabamba road (enjoyable if you’re coming down). There are rarely cars on the park road, so don’t expect to be able to hitchhike.
Lowlands Sector
The main access to the lowland sector is the Bombuscaro control, 6km south of Zamora by a dirt road that follows the Río Bombuscaro. From the parking area at the end of the road it’s a half-hour walk on a wide, uphill trail to the control point.
There are several short, maintained (but sometimes muddy) trails that meander into the forest, the most popular of which leads you to the Cascada Poderosa and Chismosa Waterfalls. The 6km Los Higuerones trail takes you into some primary forest, as does the five-hour El Campesino trail. The very fit can scramble uphill about an hour on the El Mirador trail, while another trail leads to a deep (but very swift) swimming hole called the área fotográfica on the Río Bombuscaro.
Another infrequently used entrance is at the tiny village of Romerillos, about 25km south of Zamora by a different road.
The climate is hot and humid but beautiful, and the rainiest months are May through July. May and June are the best months for orchids.
8Getting There & Away
The easiest way to get to the Bombuscaro entrance is by taxi from Zamora ($4); find them behind the bus terminal. Taxis from Loja will cost $10 to $12 one-way. You can have the driver from Zamora return to pick you up at the end of the day (additional $4), or you can walk back in about 1½ hours on the flat road. Zamora also has buses to the Romerillos entrance ($1.50, two hours, 6am and 2pm).
Zamora
%07 / Pop 13,400 / Elev 970m
The hot and humid capital of the Zamora-Chinchipe province is part Oriente and part Sierra. Perched between these regions in the Andean foothills, it attracts settlers from the high-altitude communities of Saraguro and the Amazon Basin Shuar. The town bills itself as the ‘City of Birds and Waterfalls.’ Tourism here is all about nearby Parque Nacional Podocarpus.
Decades of colonization by miners and growth into a provincial hub have created a town of mostly unremarkable, concrete structures. Zamora has, however, experienced a bit of a revival, with renovations to bridges, a spruced-up bus station and a beautiful new malecón (waterfront) along the Río Zamora. And if you need to know what time it is, just look up: the big hill above the bus station has a massive clock. The minute hand is 11 meters and 34 centimeters long. This may very well be the largest timepiece in Ecuador and, according to some, the biggest in the world.
1Sights
Take some time out… and get a gander at the big clock across the street from the bus station and market. It’s particularly – ah – surreal at nighttime. The plaza with its parrot cresting the central fountain and overwhelmingly salmon-pink building facades is worth a look-see. Yet Zamora’s principal attraction is nearby Parque Nacional Podocarpus. On the way out here, there’s also a good swimming hole, before you get to the Copalinga lodge. In town, few central streets are signed.
Refugio Ecológico TzankaWILDLIFE RESERVE
(%099-675-7730, 07-260-5692; refugioecologicotzanka@yahoo.es; Mosquera, at Tamayo; adult/child $2/1; h11am-5pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 9am-5pm Tue & Sat & Sun)
Head a block southwest of the main plaza and hang a right on the dead-end lane to find this wildlife rescue center. Housing colorful parrots, coatis (big, acrobatic rodents), monkeys, sloths and a boa constrictor, the refuge also has short-term volunteer opportunities.
4Sleeping
Hotel BetaniaHOTEL$
(%07-260-7030; Francisco de Orellana; s/d $17/30; pW)
Two blocks west of the bus station, the Betania is a comfortable, modern hotel with generously sized rooms and firm beds. It’s one of the cleanest budget hotels in all of Ecuador, and we love the nudes in the showers (ooh la la!).
Hotel Chonta DoradaHOTEL$
(%07-260-6384; Jaramillo Alvarado near Amazonas; s/d $13/22; p)
A friendly and decent if unatmospheric choice for bedding down, three blocks west of the bus station.
Hotel SamuriaHOTEL$
(%07-260-7801; hotelsamuria@hotmail.com; cnr 24 de Mayo & Diego de Vaca; s/d incl breakfast $25/38; paW)
Located half a block north of the main plaza, Zamora’s most upscale hotel (it’s all relative) has firm beds, blow-dryers, flat-screens and relatively quiet and modern rooms. The air-con helps on hot nights; the restaurant bolsters the scant eating options around.
oCopalingaLODGE$$
(%099-347-7013; www.copalinga.com; Vía al Podocarpus Km 3; cabins incl breakfast with/without bathroom s $44/32, d $111/53)
Bird-watchers, ahem, flock to this Belgian-owned private reserve for sure-thing sightings of exotic avian species. Even non-birders will love the orchid collection, hummingbird feeders, trails and secluded ambience. Take your pick of rustic or luxury cabins, and let the rushing river lull you to sleep. Hydropower runs the whole place, and meals are generous and tasty.
Book at least three days in advance. It is 3km southeast of town and a 30-minute hike from the entrance of Parque Nacional Podacarpus.
WORTH A TRIP
CABAñAS YANKUAM
East of Zamora, the Río Nangaritza flows past the vast Cordillera del Cóndor, a region of unparalleled biodiversity that is also home to indigenous Shuar communities. Traveling by boat along a blackwater tributary (it’s actually a brown hue, caused by naturally occurring tannins), you’ll see odd rock formations, waterfalls, rare birds and cliffs covered in orchids. Cabañas Yankuam (%099-947-0740; www.lindoecuadortours.com; r per person incl breakfast $30, lunch or dinner $10, multiday tour & accommodation packages per person $113-196), outside the river’s port of Las Orquídeas, can immerse you in this lost world, which is truly the end of the line for most travelers. They offer some fascinating two- to three-day tours to surrounding sights, including canyons and caves frequented by oilbirds.
5Eating
Tio BoloECUADORIAN$
(%07-260-7005; Mercadillo, near Diego de Vaca & Aldean; meals $5; h5:30pm-late Tue-Sat)
Overlooking the malecón (waterfront) and river, enjoy sublimely grilled meat with all the usual accompaniments on an intimate, smokey, open-sided terrace.
La ChozaECUADORIAN$
(%07-260-7246; Sevilla de Oro; mains $3-9; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat)
Serving fried fish, churrasco (fried steak with eggs and rice) and fried frogs’ legs (which are delicacies, so command high prices), La Choza is a health foodie’s nightmare, but it’s good, and the fish is local and fresh. To get here, head toward the clock from the main plaza.
8Information
Banco del Austro On the Plaza, with a functioning ATM.
Hospital (cnr Sevilla de Oro & Orellana)
Ministerio del Ambiente (%07-260-6606, 07-260-5318; Sevilla de Oro near Orellana; h8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) Information on Parque Nacional Podocarpus.
Post Office (24 de Mayo near Sevilla de Oro)
8Getting There & Away
The bus terminal (cnr Av Heroés de Paquisha & Amazonas) is across the street from the big clock.
Buses leave almost hourly to Loja ($3, two hours) between 3am and 11pm. There are five daily buses heading north to Gualaquiza ($3.50, four hours). For Cuenca (seven hours), Guayaquil (about 11 hours) or Quito (about 16 hours), head first to Loja and catch one of the frequent buses departing from there.
Buses to Las Orquídeas (for Cabañas Yanquam; $4) leave from Zamora daily at 4am, 6:30am, 11:15am and 12:30pm. In Las Orquídeas, you change to a pickup for the rest of the journey.
Vilcabamba
%07 / Pop 5000 / Elev 1700m
Oh, Vilcabamba: where mountains soar alluringly above town, where the balmy air is synonymous with longevity (it shot to fame for its high number of centenarians after Reader’s Digest did stories on them in 1955), where those who encounter it simply get waylaid – sometimes for months, sometimes years…
The area’s beautiful scenery, mild weather and laid-back vibe attract waves of visitors: backpackers as well as North American and European retirees. The hills are dotted with big new houses, and the town plaza with expat-owned businesses. Gringo-ization has created tension about the cost of land and living, but the flip side is that jobs in tourism and construction are more plentiful than ever, and Vilcabamba is the rare Ecuadorian pueblo where young people have little ambition to leave for the big city.
2Activities
Vilcabamba offers perfect weather for hiking and horseback riding, as well as access to remote sections of Parque Nacional Podocarpus, but it’s also an excellent place to chill. Legions of specialists are ready to facilitate your relaxation with inexpensive massages, pedicures and meditation sessions.
Most naturalists and horse guides charge about $15 for two hours, $25 for four and $35 for the whole day.
Most hotels have hiking trail maps; some even have their own trail systems. Many area hikes are on private land, and you may need to pay a nominal fee ($1 to $2) to use the trail. The Cerro Mandango trail ascends the distinctive peak west of town and takes four hours out and back. Ask locally about hiking independently, as it was considered safe at the time of research, but there were some tourist robberies on the ascent some years ago. Heading into Parque Nacional Podocarpus from the Río Yambala west of town, there’s a long five- to eight-hour hike to a waterfall known as Cascada el Palto. For an afternoon spin, consider the quick hike out to Agua de Hierro, a small natural spring – signs will take you there. The 40-hectare Rumi-Wilco Ecolodge ($2) has many excellently signed trails ranging from one to three hours in length.
Caballos GavilánHORSE RIDING
(MAP; %07-264-0415, 098-133-2806; gavilanhorse@yahoo.com; Sucre 10-30; from $25)
Highly recommended, Gavin is a New Zealander who has lived here for years. He guides two-hour to three-day horseback-riding trips with overnight stays in his refuge near the park.
El ChinoCYCLING
(MAP; %098-187-6347; cnr Sucre & Agua de Hierro; bikes/motorbikes per day $10/50; h8am-6pm)
Rents bikes and motorbikes; for a little extra, they’ll offer tours on both sets of wheels too. Check the shop next door: wondrous sculptures made out of bicycle parts!
CCourses & Tours
Centro de MeditaciónHEALTH & WELLBEING
(MAP; %098-959-2880; http://mindfulnessmeditationinecuador.org; Bolívar; s/d incl breakfast per week $120/160)
This centre offers meditation and spiritual courses. It also rents beautiful rooms, and guests can use the herbs/vegetables in the garden to make their own meals.
La Tasca ToursADVENTURE
(MAP; %07-556-1188, 098-127-3930; latascatours@yahoo.ec; Sucre; horseback tours from $15)
This well-known operator on the Central Plaza offers trekking, riding and adventure tours in the area – including Parque Nacional Podacarpus. Or try their six-hour coffee plantation tour (Ecuador’s best beans grow hereabouts). Day tours are around $50 per person.
4Sleeping
Vilcabamba has many inexpensive hotels, many with some sort of swimming pool. Those outside the village can be marvelously quiet and relaxing, while those in town are generally cheaper. Prices may fluctuate during high season and holidays.
Central
oHosteria Las MargaritasHOSTERIA$
(MAP; cnr Jaramillo & Sucre; s/d incl breakfast $15/30; pWs)
Las Margaritas’ high white walls conceal clean rooms in a tidy German-style home, with a fantastic breakfast room overlooking the pool, all wrapped in a lush garden. It’s not the backpacker hangout that other addresses in the center are, but it’s better value than the lot of them.
Hostal Jardín EscondidoHOSTEL$
(MAP; %07-264-0281; www.jardin.ec; cnr Sucre & Agua de Hierro; dm/s/d incl breakfast $15/25/30; Ws)
Built around a tranquil interior garden filled with songbirds, this is a good budget bet. All rooms have high ceilings and big bathrooms, and breakfast comes with homemade bread and good coffee. A great spot to meet other travelers.
Rendez-Vous Hostal GuesthouseHOTEL$
(MAP; %099-219-1180; www.rendezvousecuador.com; Diego Vaca de la Vega; s/d/tr $28/38/54, without bathroom s/d $19/28; iW)
Call it adobe chic. Each of the meticulous rooms at French-owned Rendez-Vous Hostal has its own little terrace that looks out onto a calm, feng-shui interior garden enclosed by high red walls. Breakfast (included in prices) comes with homemade bread and is served on the terraces.
Outside of Town
Rumi-Wilco EcolodgeLODGE$
(MAP; www.rumiwilco.com; campsite per person $5, r without bathroom per person $10, s/d cabins from $20/36; W) S
A 10-minute walk from the bus station up a track over the river, Rumi-Wilco has a series of remote houses, cabins and camping space within the evergreen confines of the 40-hectare Rumi-Wilco Nature Reserve. The adobe houses have attractive rooms with well-equipped communal kitchens (great for small groups) but our favorites are the rustic cabins on stilts – again: very impressive kitchens!
Solar-heated showers are down below the cabins, and are surprisingly hot. Entrance to the reserve for nonguests is $2 per person (good for three visits).
oMadre Tierra Resort and SpaSPA & RESORT$$
(%07-264-0362; www.madretierra.com.ec; incl breakfast s $30-86, d $44-100; piWs) S
On a hillside with waterfalls and gardens 2km north of town, Madre Tierra has a strong New Age vibe, replete with candles and healing ions. Rooms are meticulously and individually decorated; standard rooms have hammocks with views, while deluxe rooms include private balconies, inset rock floors, and bathrooms like fairy-tale grottos. The excellent spa is open to the public.
Hostería y Restaurante IzhcaylumaRESORT$$
(%07-302-5162; www.izhcayluma.com; dm $11, s/d from $32/43, without bathroom from $23/29, cabins s/d $44/55; pWs)
Located 2km south of town, German-owned Izhcayluma is excellent value, a refined hilltop retreat. The outdoor dining area serves German-Ecuadorian cuisine and has sweeping panoramic views. A ‘holistic wellness room’ offers massages and other treatments, and there is a bar and swimming pool. The cabins and rooms are quiet and spacious.
The newest cabins, clocking the best views of Cerro Mandango and the new trail system through the grounds, are stunning and tastefully decorated with Valdivia culture artifacts. This place is always packed, so book your room at least a week in advance. A direct shuttle service ($15) runs from Cuenca’s La Cigale hostel. Breakfast is not included in rates, but 7:30am yoga is.
5Eating & Drinking
La BaguetteBAKERY$
(MAP; %098-957-7107, 099-046-8701; cnr Eterna Juventud & Vaca de la Vega; snacks from $2; h7am-5pm Wed-Sat, to 2pm Sun)
Divine French goodies – pain au chocolat, quiche, and even gluten-free bread on Wednesdays – to take out.
Restaurante KatherineECUADORIAN$
(MAP; %07-264-0055; cnr Sucre & Jaramillo; meals $3)
Enjoy great comida típica at local prices at Katherine (pronounced ‘kat-REEN’), just off the plaza. It’s family-run, inexpensive, unpretentious and delicious – what’s not to love?
Midas TouchBREAKFAST$
(MAP; Sucre 11-35; breakfasts & lunches $3-5; h7:30am-5pm Mon & Wed-Thu, to late Fri-Sun; v)
While it’s open all day, this popular hangout is mostly about the great breakfasts – the banana and cinnamon hotcakes and the ‘pumpkin eggs’ are particularly addictive. Using organic and local ingredients, they also offer good vegetarian options.
Layseca’sBAKERY$
(MAP; cnr Sucre & Vaca de la Vega; snacks $0.50-1.50; h10:30am-8pm Tue-Sun)
Owned by a Belgian-Ecuadorian couple, this little café has delicious homemade chocolate, cookies, cakes and bread, and the town’s best coffee and espresso. The bags of granola make great hiking snacks.
oShanta’s BarPIZZA$$
(MAP; Diego Vaca de la Vega; mains $6-10; h1-9pm Tue-Sun)
We love Shanta’s – and have done for years. It serves pizza and big plates of frogs’ legs in an innovative rustic setting with saddle seats at the bar and a bartender with a handlebar mustache. Ask about the licor de serpiente (snake liquor).
UFOMIDDLE EASTERN$$
(MAP; United Falafel Organization; %07-264-0148; www.unitedfalafel.org; Fernando de la Vega 09-18; h11am-8pm Wed-Sun, to 8:30pm Fri & Sat; v)
Besides the clever name and enviable location next to the church, the Turkish-run UFO gets jammed for its inexpensive and tasty breakfasts, Middle Eastern favorites, gluten-free desserts, fantastic coffee and a variety of vegetarian and vegan options.
Hostería y Restaurante IzhcaylumaECUADORIAN$$
(%07-264-0095; www.izhcayluma.com; mains $5-9; h7-10am & noon-9pm Tue-Sun, 7am-10am & 5-9pm Mon; v)
Bavarian specialties and classic Ecuadorian dishes are the fare here. Using local ingredients where possible, Izhcayluma also offers excellent vegetarian substitutions for the meat dishes and some vegan selections. It’s 2km down the main road south of town, and worth the trip up the hill for a meal with a lovely view.
La TerrazaINTERNATIONAL$$
(MAP; cnr Diego Vaca de la Vega & Bolívar; mains $5-12; h9am-9:30pm)
Do your best to snag a table outside for a beer and some Central Plaza people-watching, as the location might be the best reason to come here. This busy spot serves pastas, grilled meats and Mexican-style favorites like fajitas.
Juice FactoryJUICE BAR
(MAP; Sucre; h8:30am-4pm Tue-Sat, to 2pm Sun) S
Tasty juices and good healthy, light lunches too, right on the west side of the central plaza. Some of the profits go back to helping the community.
8Information
There were a few muggings on the trail up Cerro Mandango around 2012, but safety is not currently an issue. Ask about the current situation at the iTur and leave valuables in your hotel as a precaution.
Police Station (%07-264-0896; Agua de Hierro near Bolívar)
Hospital (%07-267-3188, 07-264-0188; Av Eterna Juventud, near Miguel Carpio)
Internet (Bolivar on Plaza; per hr $1.15; h9am-9pm)
Lavandería (Bolívar on plaza; per kilo $1; h8am-9pm)
Post Office (Bolívar btwn Fernando de la Vega & Jaramillo)
Tourist Office (iTur; %07-264-0090; cnr Bolívar & Diego Vaca de la Vega; h8am-1pm & 3-6pm) Helpful with good info and maps of area hikes.
8Getting There & Away
Transportes Vilcamixtos (%07-264-0044) is a taxi-truck cooperative on the main plaza (you can’t miss the green-and-white trucks). Most charge $1.50 to $4 for nearby destinations.
Buses, minivans and taxis leave from the tiny bus terminal (Eterna Juventud & Jaramillo). Taxis colectivos ($2, 45 minutes) depart frequently to Loja after four people cram in; Vilcabambaturis minibuses ($1.30, one hour) leave on the hour.
Buses from Loja stop in Vilcabamba on their way south to Zumba ($9, around five hours) and the Peruvian border, from where there is onward transportation to Chachapoyas, Peru.
WORTH A TRIP
TAPICHALACA RESERVE
The small Tapichalaca Reserve (%in Quito 02-250-5212; www.fjocotoco.org/tapichalaca; $15, with guided walk to feeding station $30), 75km south of Vilcabamba, protects one of Ecuador’s most rare and endangered birds, the jocotoco antpitta (Grallaria ridgelyi), which has fewer than 20 known breeding pairs. Some of the birds have been habituated to eating grubs put out by the caretaker, however, so a sighting is likely. The rest of the reserve is an oasis of cloud forest in a region of heavy deforestation, and the hummingbird feeders are abuzz all day. To get there in time for the antpittas’ breakfast, catch the 5am bus from Loja or spend the night at the reserve’s beautiful lodge (%02-227-2013; http://jocotoursecuador.com/destination/casa-simpson-tapichalaca-reserve; Tapichalaca Reserve; s/d incl meals from $125/170; W) S.
Zumba & the Peruvian Border
%07
Vilcabamba is the end of the road for most. However, a slowly improving road heading south to Zumba and Peru may tempt more travelers to use this route south to the world-class ruins at Chachapoyas.
Zumba was an important military outpost during the wars with Peru between the 1940s and 1990s. The wars are over, but there’s still an Ecuadorian military post here, and soldiers roam all over town. The main activity here is the adventurous journey on into Peru. From Loja or Vilcabamba, it’s an all-day trip to the Peruvian town of San Ignacio – the best place to spend the night.
8Getting There & Away
Transportes Nambija runs a direct overnight service from Loja through Zumba to Jaén, Peru (from where you can pick up colectivos/buses to Chachapoyas).
Transportes Nambija ($10, six to seven hours) and Cooperativa Cariamanga buses, among others, leave Loja for Zumba; all stop in Vilcabamba one hour after leaving Loja.
From Zumba, rancheras (open-sided trucks) leave at 8am, 10:30am and 5:30pm for the border at La Balsa ($3, 1½ to 2½ hours), where you get your exit stamp (or entry stamp, if coming from Peru). The condition of the road between Zumba and La Balsa varies greatly, depending on recent weather. On the other side of the ‘international bridge’ in Peru there are taxi colectivos (combis) to San Ignacio (9 soles/$3, 1½ hours), where you can spend the night. Money-changing can be done at La Balsa or San Ignacio.
From San Ignacio, there are regular minibuses to Jaén ($3.50, three hours) beginning at 4am. Once you’re in Jaén, take a mototaxi (motorcycle taxi) to the colectivo stop and then get a colectivo to Bagua Grande (one hour). From Bagua Grande you then get a bus to Chachapoyas (three hours), the first town of any real size.
Catacocha
%07 / Pop 6617 / Elev 1886m
Declared a National Cultural Heritage Site in 1994, Catacocha is proud of its places of worship, sun-baked adobe houses and wooden balconies, but has yet to capitalize on its tourism potential. Strolling its streets is the best way to appreciate the timeless cycle of highland life.
1Sights
Templo de LourdesCHURCH
F The Templo de Lourdes is worth a peek inside for its replicas of famous European religious paintings. You won’t mistake this church for the Louvre, but the canvases by a local monk give the surroundings an earnestly faithful if slightly kitschy feel.
Peña de ShiriculapoVIEWPOINT
(hsunrise-sunset) F
The infamous Peña de Shiriculapo is a shrine-cum-mirador (lookout) known for its vertigo-inducing views of the Casanga Valley. Access it through the small hospital a five-minute walk from Plaza Independencia.
Sunday MarketMARKET
(Las Paltas; Plaza Independencia; h7am-noon Sun)
The Sunday market is the most important event of the week. At dawn church bells beckon everyone to mass in the Plaza Independencia, and by 7am they are buying and selling homemade cheese, donkey saddles, farm-fresh eggs and mountains of veggies all over town. By dusk, the same plaza is a gathering spot for old-timers and bored teenagers.
4Sleeping
Hostal TambocochaHOTEL$
(%07-268-3551; cnr 25 de Junio & Lauro Gerrero; r per person $10; p)
Has clean, well-lit rooms, many of which look over Plaza Independencia. All have cable TV and electrically-heated showers.
8Getting There & Away
Buses from Loja ($3, two hours, 10 daily) stop here en route to Macará and Piura (Peru). Quicker colectivos (shared taxis) to Loja charge $5.
Macará & the Peruvian Border
%07 / Pop 19,018 / Elev 470m
The descent from Catacocha toward the Peruvian border offers sweeping views of mountains and deep, dramatic valleys that give way to hilly, dry tropical forest. Adobe ruins bake under the strong sun, and livestock roams untethered along the road.
At the bottom of all this is anti-climactic Macará – a sleepy border town, although fairly innocuous as such places go. Surrounded by terraced rice fields, it’s infested with crickets that jump about the streets and hotel rooms. If you’re entering Ecuador through here, don’t worry, it gets better heading north.
The hallmark tree of the surrounding arid forest is the ceiba (kapok). It stands out majestically – and sadly – with its green-tinted, swollen trunks and gnarly, usually leafless branches on hillsides that have been logged and grazed. In these barren areas, the lonely giants have been spared the chainsaw because they are mostly hollow and of little utilitarian value.
1Sights
Jorupe ReserveWILDLIFE RESERVE
(%in Quito 02-250-5212; www.fjocotoco.org; $15)
The Jorupe Reserve is run by Fundación Jocotoco outside of Macará. Primarily a bird-watching reserve, Jorupe is home to the white-tailed jay, blue-crowned motmot and Ecuadorian trogon. Hire a taxi ($3) to take you to the reserve about 5km down the road from Macará toward Sozoronga, but be sure to book ahead of your visit.
It’s advisable to arrange a visit beforehand and – to enjoy the reserve at its optimum – stay over in the lodge (%in Quito 02-250-5212; www.jocotoursecuador.com/en/our-lodges/urraca-lodge-jorupe-reserve; s/d incl full board $168/294).
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Los ArrozalesHOTEL$
(%07-269-4300; cnr 10 de Agosto & Amazonas; s/d incl breakfast $18/34; paW)
The Arrozales (rice fields; named after the town’s economic mainstay) is Macará’s fanciest option: sparkling, big rooms (all air-conditioned), private bathrooms, corridors opening out onto small terraces and a small cafeteria.
Hostal SantigynHOTEL$
(%07-269-4539; cnr Calderón & Rengel; r per person incl breakfast from $12; a)
A joint-smoking Mona Lisa looms over reception, but this clean, smart hotel has small but well-lit rooms of various sizes. Some have air-con; all have cable TV.
Caña y TapaTAPAS$
(%07-269-4970; Amazonas 41-15; tapas $3-8; h4-10pm)
An atmospheric tapas bar.
D’Marco’sECUADORIAN$
(cnr Roldós & Amazonas; mains $5-6)
This nice option serves seafood.
8Information
Banco de Loja (cnr Ventimilla & Calderón) has an ATM ($200 limit) but no currency exchange. For Peruvian soles, exchange your money on the border.
8Getting There & Away
Transportes Loja Internacional (%07-269-4058; Vaca & Jaramillo) buses leave four times a day to Loja ($7.40, six hours) and take the Catacocha route.
Unión Cariamanga (%07-269-4047; cnr Loja & Manuel E Rengel) has seven buses a day to Loja ($7.40, six hours) via Cariamanga.
The crossing into Peru via Macará is much quieter than at Huaquillas and busier than at Zumba. Macará is 3km from the actual border crossing, or puente internacional (international bridge). Most people buy tickets direct to Piura (Peru) from Loja, but both companies listed above leave Macará for Piura twice a day ($4, three hours). The bus stops at the border, waits for passengers to take care of exits/entries, then continues to Piura.