The Oriente
The Oriente
Why Go?
The vast tract of land locally known as Amazonía holds more drama than a rip-roaring flood. Rivers churn from the Andes into the dense, sweltering rainforest on course for the Amazon basin. Along the way, ancient indigenous tribes call the riverbanks home and astounding wildlife can be seen among the trees. Those lucky enough to reach the remoter jungle lodges (several hours downriver from the nearest towns) can fish for piranhas on silent blackwater lakes, hear the menacing boom of howler monkeys, spot the shining eyes of caiman at nighttime, see colorful parrots feasting at the famous clay licks (areas where birds gather to feed on nutrient-rich clay), and perhaps catch sight of an elusive tapir or jaguar.
Exploring the Oriente gives you the unforgettable experience of seeing the natural world up close and personal. But this region is not just jungle. Ecuador’s best thermal spa, its most spectacular waterfall, its most active volcanoes and its most formidable white-water rapids also await.
When to Go
- Dec–Mar The driest time of year, when some rivers become impassable due to low water levels.
- Apr–Jul The wettest time of year – make sure you’ve got a good raincoat!
- Oct–Nov The best time of year: the rivers are all passable, it’s not too wet, and wildlife is easy to spot.
Best Places to Stay
The Oriente Highlights
1 Papallacta Soaking in pristine steaming waters, watching the mist move across the mountainsides above.
2 San Rafael Falls Standing in the thunderous spray of Ecuador’s highest waterfall.
3 Parque Nacional Sumaco Napo Galeras Hiking through three different vegetation zones to gaze out over jungle and cloud forest on the country’s most volatile volcanoes.
4 Reserva Producción Faunística Cuyabeno Watching for an astonishing range of birds and animals in this blackwater paradise.
5 Parque Nacional Yasuní Sleeping in one of the world’s most biodiverse jungles at river lodges, and visiting its parrot clay lick and rainforest canopy towers for wildlife-watching.
6 Laguna Pañacocha Fishing for piranhas and looking out for gigantic arapaimas and pink river dolphins.
7 Tena Taming white-water rapids on a rafting adventure on multiple nearby rivers.
8 Puyo Visiting indigenous communities within the rainforest on a guided jungle tour.
The Northern Oriente
From Quito to Lago Agrio
The road from Quito to Lago Agrio traverses the misty Andean slopes before descending into the lowlands of Amazonía. The journey along this road takes travelers through a beautifully diverse swath of Ecuadorian ecosystems – from high-altitude cloud forest to steamy equatorial rainforest. If you’re not flying to Lago Agrio for a trip down the Río Cuyabeno, this journey can be done in one long day by road, or enjoyed in stages with stops for hot-spring soaking, bird-watching and white-water rafting.
Papallacta
POP 920 / ELEV 3300M
Slip into this tiny village’s steamy, therapeutic waters to soothe sore muscles or combat the high-altitude chill. At Termas de Papallacta, more than a dozen sparkling pools offer the country’s most luxurious thermal baths experience. The main spa complex is 3km above the village of Papallacta and is a good day trip from Quito, 67km (two hours) away. Be prepared for cold nights and intense sun.
2Activities
Spas & Thermal Pools
The Termas de Papallacta is the main event here, but (in order up from the Quito-Baeza road junction in Papallacta village) La Choza de Don Wilson, Hostería Pampallacta Thermales and Hostal Antisana also have thermal pools.
Termas de PapallactaTHERMAL BATHS
(
%06-289-5060; www.papallacta.com.ec) 
S
The setting of Termas de Papallacta, 3km above the pretty little village of Papallacta, is grand: on a clear day you can see the snowcapped Volcán Antisana (5753m) 15km south, beyond the lush sheep- and cow-dotted hillsides. The hot springs are a poorly kept secret; opt for a weekday visit if possible, or come after dark, when it’s particularly magical and far less crowded.
There are two sets of pools: the Balneario (adult/child $8.50/4; 
h6am-10:30pm, last entry 9pm) and the Spa (adult/child $22/14.50; h9am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri-Sat). Together they number more than a dozen pools, with temperatures varying from cool to 40°C, all surrounded by plush grass, red-orange blossoms, quaint interconnecting bridges, and beyond, mountains laced by tempestuous clouds. Towels and lockers ($5 deposit) are available for a small fee.
There’s little reason to visit the Spa pools, although they are less crowded, smaller and filled with jets. An indoor sauna can loosen you up for a spa treatment (the sauna is free at the Spa). Treatments (ranging from $12 to $69) include hydrothermal massages, reflexology, body wraps with Andean mud, Turkish baths, body lymphatic drainage and body exfoliation. Pool waters are changed in late afternoon daily.
Hiking
Few spa-goers explore this option, but right by the gates of the Balneario is a back entrance to the 400,000-hectare Reserva Ecológica Cayambe-Coca. The spa has been acclaimed over the years for its approach to conservation, and owns a 250-hectare protected swath of land at the park entrance known locally as the Rancho del Cañón. There is an interpretation center in the spa complex and guided hikes into this terrain of Andean meadows and lonely lakes (making this perhaps the best starting point for exploring the reserve). Ask about the challenging two-day hike through to the village of Oyacachi (more thermal springs await).
4Sleeping & Eating
Hostería Pampallacta TermalesGUESTHOUSE$$
(%06-289-5014; www.pampallactatermales.com; s/d incl breakfast from $36/75; 
p
W
s)
This hostería is the best midrange option in Papallacta. Warm (fireplaces) and charming (all rooms have huge stone bathtubs you can fill with thermal spring water). Management is friendly and there are a number of small thermal pools in which to relax – if you don’t fancy walking the 1km to Termas de Papallacta that is.
Hostal AntisanaGUESTHOUSE$$
(%06-289-5016; s/d incl breakfast $20/40; pWs)
This 10-room hostal sits just meters from the Termas de Papallacta, but is a fraction of what you would pay to stay within the spa confines. It’s chilly and a tad dark, but slightly worn rooms are good enough. Bring warm clothes, or take refuge in one of the thermal pools out back.
oHotel Termas de PapallactaLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(%in Papallacta 06-289-5060, in Quito 02-256-8989; www.papallacta.com.ec; r 1-3 person from $158, 6-person from $234; p
iWs) S
Most visitors to Papallacta stay at this supremely comfortable yet totally unpretentious resort – a great way to experience the thermal baths in style. All accommodations are done beautifully in wood paneling: cabins can be thatched, adobe numbers or sumptuous two-floor affairs with ceramic fireplaces, surrounding hot pools for guest use only. There’s a good restaurant and a sumptuous spa.
Rooms and cabins have private bathrooms, thermal heating and bathtubs. The better rooms have whirlpool Jacuzzis, too. Weekends must be reserved well in advance. The Sucus restaurant (mains $11 to $20) serves a wide range of international dishes, including filet mignon, and Ecuadorian fare such as llapingachos (cheesy potato cakes); there are another two restaurants in the Spa and the Balneario.
La Choza de Don WilsonSEAFOOD$
(%06-289-5027; www.hosteriachozapapallacta.com; mains $5-10; h8am-9pm; W)
Almost everyone comes to this unassuming restaurant for an excellent fillet of trout and shots of aguardiente (sugarcane alcohol). They also have rooms (per person $20) and access to thermal pools. You’ll find this place at the junction with the branch road to Termas de Papallacta.
8Getting There & Away
Any of the buses from Quito heading toward Baeza, Tena or Lago Agrio can drop you off in Papallacta, as can the occasional Papallacta bus.
To visit the Termas de Papallacta complex, ask the driver to let you off on the village entrance (entrada de Papallacta). Then catch a waiting camioneta (pickup or light truck) for the $2 ride up the road.
To leave Papallacta, flag down a bus on the main road. Weekend buses are standing room only.
Baeza & Around
POP 1960 / ELEV 1914M
This friendly former Spanish missionary and trading outpost, first founded in 1548, is a serene stop-off en route to the jungle, and a tourism destination just waiting to erupt, thanks to the superb nearby hiking and white-water rafting. The restaurants here also stand out above almost everywhere else in the Oriente. For now, though, it’s just the nearby volcano, Volcán Reventador, that’s doing the erupting. The town is divided into Baeza Colonial (1km above the road to Papallacta/Lago Agrio on the way to Tena and by far the best bit) and more-populated Baeza Nueva Andalucia (1km further along).
2Activities
White-water rafting has taken off in Baeza. The Quito-based outfitter Small World Adventures (%093-958-5776, in the US 970-309-8913; www.smallworldadventures.com; 7-days per person $1400-2000) run seven-day kayaking/rafting trips through the nearby Quijos valley – including the paddle up to their very own riverside lodge – before finishing in the Tena/Misahuallí area. It remains to be seen what impact the big hydro-electric project further down the valley will have on rivers here.
The main hikes from Baeza Colonial go to the radio masts above town (amazing views) and down to waterfalls (interesting because you drop down a vegetation zone into tropical forest). The prospects for longer hikes are thrilling. To the southwest is Reserva Ecológica Antisana, while southeast is Parque Nacional Sumaco-Galeras – Ecuador’s most pristine and remote national park. The two nearest entrances are at Cabañas San Isidro, 15 minutes’ drive south, and San Carlos, an hour’s drive east on the road to Volcán Reventador. Accommodations in Baeza can provide information on hikes.
4Sleeping & Eating
La Casa de RodrigoHOSTEL$
(%099-963-8357, 06-232-0467; rodrigobaeza1@yahoo.com; Baeza Colonial; r per person $12-15; W)
Rooms are clean, the shared kitchen is spotless, showers are hot and wi-fi is strong – but the big draw of Baeza’s best-value digs is Rodrigo himself, something of a local character and a great source of information on the entire Quijos valley. He also rents kayaks and can arrange rafting, canyoning and birding tours with licensed guides.
oCabañas & Pizzeria KopalCABIN$$
(%06-232-0408; http://kopalecuador.com; Baeza Colonial; cabins per person $25; pW)
These cabins, hewn exquisitely out of wood by their Dutch carpenter-owner, with their cozy interiors and deep porches conducive to relaxation, would be enticing in themselves. The handmade, forced-relaxation deck chairs are good enough reason to stay. But there’s also one of Ecuador’s best pizzerias (Baeza Colonial; mains $5-15; h5-7pm).
Quinde HuaycoB&B$$
(%06-232-0649; Baeza Colonial; r per person incl breakfast $25; W) S
Does it get better than sleeping in one of two secluded rooms, surrounded by lush gardens renowned for the hummingbirds they attract, knowing that next morning brings one of Ecuador’s most lovingly prepared breakfasts, complemented by proper espresso, and taken in the atmospheric attached cafe? Not really.
This is one for the ornithologists and the coffee addicts. Cafe opening hours for nonguests are erratic, but breakfast/brunch is a safe bet.
Río Quijos Eco LodgeLODGE$$
(www.rioquijosecolodge.com; r per person incl breakfast from $22; pW)
Birders, rafters and fans of bucolic Andean retreats will love this ecolodge. About 12km north of Baeza, this riverside spot has trails through the trees and more than 90 acres of reserve land across the river. It’s well placed for excursions to San Rafael Falls, river put-ins and caving adventures, and the helpful staff can organize all manner of tours.
Cabañas San IsidroCABIN$$$
(MAP; %06-289-1880, 099-358-1250; www.cabanasanisidro.com; s/d incl breakfast $87/130; p) S
Once a cattle ranch, this 3700-acre nature reserve 15km south of Baeza enjoys a spectacular setting at 2000m. It offers first-class bird-watching; co-owner Mitch Lysinger is one of the top birders in South America. Comfortable cabins have decks with forest views. Full board is an extra $46 per person.
Nearby hiking trails weave through wonderful subtropical cloud forest within Reserva Ecológica Antisana.
Advance reservation is required; book online or through the Quito office (%02-289-1880; cnr Av Siena 318 & Calle A, Edificio MDX, Oficina 310, Sector la Primavera, Cumbaya). To get here, turn off the Baeza–Tena road just north of Cosanga village.
Gina’sECUADORIAN$
(Baeza Colonial; mains $2-8; h7:30am-10:30pm; W)
Those who love little mountain towns will feel right at home in this wood-plank restaurant plastered with rafting stickers. Hearty fare includes trout prepared a thousand ways – and whichever manner you choose, it is the dish to order here.
DON’T MISS
SAN RAFAEL FALLS
Ecuador’s highest waterfall is spectacular 131m San Rafael Falls (h7am-5pm) 
F and it absolutely deserves a stop on the road between Baeza and Lago Agrio.
While this incredible waterfall is at its powerful best in the winter, a hydroelectric dam and power plant 20km (12 miles) upriver, completed in 2016, reduces the flow by half during the summer months.
The power plant issue polarized the country, which, since the election of former President Rafael Correa in 2007, has actively sought to expand Ecuador’s sustainable energy production.
Those who supported the scheme said that the power plant would not affect the strength of the Coca River, which feeds the falls and, as such, this natural wonder was not in danger.
Others disagreed, stating that water flow to the falls had been dropping in recent years, and that the plant would not be able to operate for much of the year due to low water flow from the Coca River.
In the end, the falls are still an impressive sight and worth a visit if you’re heading this way. An access road has been built to ease your trip here, sign-posted off the road just below Hostelería Reventador (and just before, if you’re coming from Quito). This takes you down to a small visitor center where you’ll begin the easy 15- to 20-minute hike down to the viewpoint, which is breathtaking.
8Getting There & Away
Flag down one of the many buses going to and from Lago Agrio, Tena and Quito and hope there’s room.
Coming from Quito, it’s best to take a Tena-bound bus from the main terminal, as these stop in Baeza Colonial and Baeza Nueva Andalucia ($4, 2½ hours).
Buses to Lago Agrio ($7, four to five hours) stop only at the junction of the Tena turn-off.
Volcán Reventador
Following the 2002 eruption of this spectacular volcano, hiking to the 3562m-summit became impossible: it’s currently Ecuador’s most active volcano, belching out smoke and boulders several times hourly. For updates on Reventador’s activity, consult Instituto Geofisico (www.igepn.edu.ec).
The volcano is within the eastern boundaries of Reserva Ecológica Cayambe-Coca, a rarely visited reserve that rises to over 5500m and a transition zone between Andes and Oriente. There are no signs or entrance stations here and the guard station is 20km away in the town of El Chaco, half-way between Baeza and Hostería Reventador (which can advise on hiking possibilities).
Volcano-watchers should not despair, however. You can appreciate Volcán Reventador by signing up on a hardcore adventure tour in the privately owned cloud forest reserve of Reserva Alto Coca.
2Activities
Reserva Alto CocaWILDLIFE-WATCHING
(MAP; %in Quito 02-252-8019; www.altococa.com; per person $50-120)
The best way to appreciate Volcán Reventador is actually to sign up on a hardcore adventure tour in this privately owned cloud forest reserve, sitting between 1500 and 2000m on the other side of the valley from the volcano. Trips must be booked in advance through their Quito office.
After a tough four-hour hike up from the village of San Carlos, you reach what must be one of Ecuador’s remotest accommodation options.
Basic cabins are strung with hammocks and garner great views of Reventador’s antics. Hikes then lead off into the adjoining Parque Nacional Sumaco Napo Galleras. Wildlife sightings are great here, as development within the park has mercifully been minimal.
4Sleeping
Hostería ReventadorHOTEL$$
(%06-302-0110; http://hosteriaelreventador.com; s/d $38/49; pWs)
The most obvious option hereabouts is this pleasant roadside place, a friendly and recently renovated lodge by San Rafael Falls. Rooms are modern and include all creature comforts. The nine-hour route up Reventador starts nearby; ask about the chances of tackling it or other hikes in the vicinity. There’s also an excellent restaurant here.
Any bus from Quito or Baeza to Lago Agrio will pass right outside the hotel.
8Getting There & Away
Buses heading to Lago Agrio from Quito or Baeza will skirt the eastern side of Reserva Ecológica Cayambe-Coca, where the volcano is located. Ask the bus driver to let you off at Hostería Reventador, if you’re heading there or to San Rafael Falls.
PREPARING FOR A JUNGLE TRIP
While it’s possible to visit the jungle on your own, organized tours and jungle lodges get you into the wilderness quicker and without all the logistical challenges. Moreover, going alone means foregoing encounters with indigenous peoples who prefer to see tourists who are accompanied by guides.
First, figure out how much you can spend, what you want to see and how much time you have. The further you travel from roads, well-plied rivers and development, and the more time you spend in the jungle, the more wildlife you’ll see. The same applies for cultural experiences – longer, more remote trips result in more exciting experiences and encounters.
The Differences
Lodges and large hotel-style boats offer daily excursions from a comfortable base. Other tours may include camping or sleeping in communities.
Lower costs may translate to more basic accommodations, Spanish-speaking guides, non-naturalist guides, larger groups, boiled instead of purified water and visits to developed areas with less wildlife. In some cases, operators may cut corners with practices that are not ecologically sound, including hunting for food (the rainforest is over-hunted; a no-hunting policy is a must).
Equally, money doesn’t buy a more authentic (ie more wildlife, more indigenous culture) trip. The opposite can indeed be true: lower-cost trips with jungle camping can lend a far better insight into flora, fauna and rainforest tribes.
Different operators emphasize different aspects of the jungle, and can advise you on the probability of seeing specific wildlife. Observation towers enhance the chances of seeing birds and monkeys. However, it is no longer the case that community tourism (the most authentic type of trip, as it signifies that indigenous villages get tangible benefits from it) is exclusively high-end. Check itineraries carefully if this is important to you. Any community tourism is best suited to Spanish speakers with a flexible itinerary.
Some unscrupulous outfitters will offer ayahuasca or other psychotropics used ritually in indigenous cultures. These illegal substances should be regarded with extreme caution.
Wherever you go, it’s essential that you have a guide when outside towns and villages. Whatever choices you make, tread lightly and respect local communities.
Tour Bookings
Numerous operators have offices in Quito, allowing for quick comparative shopping. Agencies can get you into the jungle with a few days’ notice. Once booked on a tour, you usually have to arrange your own travel to the town where it begins (most often Lago Agrio or Coca). Thoroughly discuss costs, food, equipment, itinerary and group size before reserving.
Booking a tour from Lago Agrio, Coca, Tena, Puyo or Macas often means traveling with guides who have a superior knowledge of the surroundings to Quito-based operators. The Cofán, Huaoranis, Kichwa, Shuar and other groups offer trips guided by their own community members.
Guides
A good guide will show you things you would have missed on your own, whereas an inadequate guide will spoil the trip. Guides should be able to produce a license on request and explain their specialties. Recommended guides are always preferable, and many lodges are known for their quality guiding services. Make the most of guides – ask questions and let them know exactly what you’re interested in seeing. Be prepared to tip your guide, and recommend their services to others if they prove to be good.
What to Bring
Jungle towns have only basic equipment, including bottled water, tarps (for rain) and rubber boots in an array of sizes. Nearly all guided tours provide the essential boots and rain gear, but check beforehand. Mosquito nets are usually provided in places that need them. If you’re serious about seeing wildlife, bring your own binoculars. Some guides will carry a pair, but will need them to make sightings. Besides general travel supplies, bring a flashlight, sunblock, a sun hat and repellent with DEET. Depending on the time of year and your destination, you may need malaria pills.
Lago Agrio
%06 / Pop 57,730
This seedy, gray town pulses with the life of the oil industry, a chaotic market, dusty streets, thick traffic and gritty bars. The first oil workers nicknamed Lago Agrio ‘bitter lake,’ after Sour Lake, Texas, the former home of Texaco, which pioneered local drilling. The city’s official name is Nueva Loja, although no one calls it that. Locals settle for ‘Lago.’ Certain realities exist here, including a high amount of prostitution and crime related to the nearby Colombian border: take care at all times, especially after dark. Lago is mainly visited as the entry point to the spectacular Reserva de Producción Faunística Cuyabeno (Cuyabeno Reserve), which offers some of Ecuador’s best wildlife-spotting opportunities.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel D’MarioHOTEL$
(%06-283-0172; www.hoteldmario.com; Av Quito 26-2, near Amazonas; r incl breakfast $20-60; 
aWs)
Tour groups favor this staple in the center of town, along a strip of midrange hotels on Avenida Quito. Arranged around a courtyard with a pool and outdoor sitting areas, the bright but sometimes cramped rooms are perfectly comfortable. The downstairs restaurant is best known for its pizzas ($6 to $16) and is one of the best options in town.
Araza HotelHOTEL$$
(%06-283-1287; www.hotel-araza.com; Av Quito 536, near Narvaez; s/d incl breakfast from $48/62; paWs)
Hands down, the best, friendliest place in town: popular with oil industry travelers. Average-sized rooms are spotless, anonymous and business-style, with desks, TV and private bathrooms. There’s also a pleasant tropical courtyard, a restaurant, a bar with big-screen TV, a gym and swimming pool.
Sacha Micuna WasiECUADORIAN$
(%06-283-0557; Alfaro, near 20 de Junio; meals $5; h10am-5pm)
Look for the grill outside, where the maitos (tilapia grilled in palm leaves) are prepared by Kichwa pros. Served whole, alongside steamed maduro (green plantain) or yuca (cassava) and pickled onions, with a refreshing pitcher of iced guayusa (Amazonian herbal tea), this is the urban intro to cuisine a la Amazonía.
8Information
The ongoing conflict in neighboring Colombia has made border towns such as Lago Agrio havens for Colombian guerrillas, anti-rebel paramilitaries and drug smugglers. It is not recommended to cross into Colombia here. In town, bars can be risky and side streets unsafe, so stick to the main drag (especially at night) or take a taxi to restaurants further out. Tourists rarely have problems.
Banco de Guayaquil (cnr Av Quito & 12 de Febrero; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)
Banco del Pichincha (cnr Av Quito & 12 de Febrero)
Colombian Consulate (%06-283-2114; http://nuevaloja.consulado.gov.co; Av Quito, near Colombia, Edificio Moncada, 4th fl; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Flights fill up fast with jungle-lodge guests and oil workers traveling home for the weekend; book early. If you can’t get a ticket, go to the airport and get on a waiting list in the hope of cancellations, which are frequent because tour companies book more seats than they can use.
TAME (%06-283-2365; Orellana near 9 de Octubre) has daily flights between Quito and Lago Agrio.
The airport is about 3km east of Lago Agrio; taxis there (yellow or white pickup trucks) cost about $3.
BORDER CROSSINGS
The Colombian border is less than 20km north of town but it’s best to avoid it. The area is notorious for smugglers and guerrilla activity. The most frequently used route from Lago Agrio is to La Punta (about 1½ hours) on Río San Miguel. Taxi-trucks leave Lago Agrio from the corner of Eloy Alfaro and Avenida Colombia and go to La Punta during the day.
BUS
The drive from the jungle into the Andes (and vice versa) is dramatic and beautiful, and worth doing in daylight. The bus terminal, about 2km northwest of Lago Agrio center, has a wide selection of routes and options. In addition, Transportes Putumayo buses go through the jungle towns of Dureno and Tarapoa for travelers wanting access to the Río Aguarico side of the Cuyabeno Reserve – although it’s far more rewarding to go with a guided tour. Services run daily and are relatively frequent.
BUSES FROM LAGO AGRIO
| DESTINATION | COST ($) | DURATION (HR) |
|---|---|---|
| Baeza | 7 | 4–5 |
| Coca | 3 | 2 |
| Guayaquil | 20 | 13 |
| Puyo | 13 | 8–9 |
| Quito | 12 | 8 |
| Tena | 10 | 6 |
Reserva Producción Faunística Cuyabeno
This beautiful reserve is a unique flooded rainforest covering 6034 sq km around Río Cuyabeno. Seasonally inundated with water, the flooded forest provides a home to diverse aquatic species and birdlife – not to mention pink river dolphins, manatees, caiman and anacondas, several monkey and cat species, tapirs, peccaries and agoutis. Macrolobium and ceiba treetops thrust out from the underwater forest, creating a stunning visual effect. The blackwater rivers, rich in tannins from decomposing foliage, form a maze of waterways that feed the lagoons.
Due to its remoteness, and to protect the communities within it, travelers should only visit the reserve on guided tours – which are significantly cheaper, and often yield richer wildlife sightings, than in Parque Nacional Yasuní.
History
The boundaries of the reserve shift with the political winds, but the area is substantially larger than it was originally. The reserve was created in 1979 to protect rainforest, conserve wildlife and provide a sanctuary in which the indigenous inhabitants – the Siona, Secoya, Cofán, Kichwa and Shuar – could lead customary ways of life.
Its protected status notwithstanding, Cuyabeno was opened to oil exploitation almost immediately after its creation. The oil towns of Tarapoa and Cuyabeno and parts of the trans-Ecuadorian oil pipeline were built within the reserve’s boundaries. Roads and colonists followed, and tens of thousands of hectares of the reserve became logged or degraded by oil spills and toxic waste. Many of the contaminants entered Río Cuyabeno itself.
Various groups set to work to try to protect the area (although legally protected, in reality it was open to development). Guard stations were established, Siona and Secoya were trained to work in wildlife management, and an Ecuadorian environmental-law group that challenged the legality of allowing oil exploitation in protected areas was instrumental in getting the government to shift the borders of the reserve further east and south and enlarge the area it covered.
The result is that the new reserve is more remote and better protected. Vocal local indigenous groups – supported by Ecuadorian and international nongovernmental organizations (NGOs), tourists, travel agencies and conservation groups – are now proving to be its best stewards.
TTours
Most people sign up on tours online or in Quito, where there is more choice. Transport from Quito to Lago Agrio is rarely included in packages – and neither are entrance fees (per person around $5) to communities within the reserve.
About 10 lodges currently operate close to each other on the river; a few are close by on a lagoon. No location is significantly privileged; all have similar opportunities for spotting wildlife. Travel is mainly by canoe except between December and February, when low water levels limit river travel. Most visitors come during the wetter months of March to September.
The best rates, especially for solo travelers, are obtained by squeezing into an existing trip. When booking, check to see whether: transportation to and from Lago Agrio is included; the travel day is considered a tour day; water is boiled or purified (purified is preferred); and whether you can expect naturalist/native guides. A naturalist is preferred as they are able to tell you far more about plants scientifically, but native guides give the traditional uses and can show how indigenous people prepare various products. A naturalist will nearly always speak English.
4Sleeping
Jamu LodgeJUNGLE LODGE$$$
(MAP; www.jamulodge.com; 3 nights per person incl full board $334; W)
Squirrel monkeys cavort above the walkways at highly rated Jamu lodge, where the jungle feels close at hand. Dugout canoe trips, walks through swamps knee-deep in mud to spot the likes of anacondas and pink river dolphins, swims in lagoons and memorable nighttime excursions all contribute to a vivid wilderness experience; the lodge also stands all by itself in the reserve, which makes it seem more remote.
Facilities are clean and as high-end as it gets in the jungle, all powered by solar. Guides have a reputation for their knowledge and enthusiasm.
Cuyabeno LodgeLODGE$$$
(MAP; %02-292-6153 in Quito; www.cuyabenolodge.com.ec; s/d 3 nights incl full board from $480/760) S
This highly recommended place is run by Quito-based Neotropic Turis, in close cooperation with the local Siona people. Thatched huts and towers with hot-water bathrooms and solar electricity are spread over its hillside location (which is never inundated). Upgraded tower rooms are more spacious and have private balconies. Bilingual naturalist guides get top reviews from guests.
The food and attention are excellent (request vegetarian, vegan or gluten-free preferences upon booking). Prices include transfers from Lago Agrio. Canoes and kayaks are available to paddle around the lake when the water is high enough.
Tapir LodgeLODGE$$$
(MAP; %in Quito 02-380-1567; www.tapirlodge.com; 3 nights incl full board $650) S
Established in 1999, Tapir Lodge features multitiered tower lodgings that get guests into the trees. Simple but comfortable rooms come fitted out with screens, mosquito nets, hot water and balconies. Solar-powered electricity is provided 24/7. The lodge works in partnership with the local Siona community, and the guides here have a great reputation for being knowledgeable and enthusiastic.
8Getting There & Away
Guided tours include transport to, from and on the river. Trips to Cuyabeno generally begin at the Lago Agrio airport.
Coca
%06 / Pop 45,200
The unavoidable starting point for many of Ecuador’s most fascinating jungle tours, Coca will be most visitors’ unsexy introduction to the Río Napo. In the 1990s the town was transformed by the oil industry from a tiny river settlement with dirt roads into a hot, teeming mass of concrete. The capital of the Orellana province since 1999 (and officially known as Puerto Francisco de Orellana), Coca is the last real civilization before the Río Napo transports you deep into the rainforest to the Parque Nacional Yasuní and beyond into the Amazon basin.
Though decidedly not a destination in itself, Coca isn’t altogether charmless – an attractive little park adorns the center, and a pretty malecón (waterfront) runs along the riverfront, anchored by the excellent Museo Arqueológico Centro Cultural de Orellana (MACCO) that opened in 2016. A stunning new suspension bridge now spans the Napo, taking traffic bound down Via Auca towards Tiguino (another starting point for rainforest forays).
1Sights
oMACCOMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Museo Arqueológico Centro Cultural Orellana; www.macco.ec; cnr 9 de Octubre & Espejo; $5; h8am-5pm Tue-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat-Sun)
This excellent archaeological museum of the Orellana region’s cultural legacy is a must-visit museum in Coca. Housing exquisitely restored and diverse artifacts from the region – from funereal vases to purely ceremonial axes – the curation and bilingual interpretive explanations are nuanced and beautifully arranged. Various Amazonian cultures are presented in both historical and contemporary contexts, with delicate artwork enhancing the exhibits.
TTours
A jungle tour can offer a very different experience to staying at lodges (which do, of course, have their own tours): more flexibility and more adventurous possibilities. Groups are generally smaller and prices cheaper overall – although there are fewer creature comforts. In addition to the operators in Coca, there are plenty of tour options in Quito.
oAmazon Wildlife ToursWILDLIFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.amazonwildlife.ec; cnr Napo & García Moreno, Hotel El Auca; per person per day from $100)
This is the best reason to book a jungle jaunt within Coca: an experienced agency with an array of nature-watching tours, including a specialty jaguar expedition in Yasuní National Park, tours to see Amazon dolphins and general wildlife-watching in the Limoncocha Reserve.
Jorge CarrielJUNGLE TOUR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %093-971-2597; loresalavarria84@hotmail.com; cnr Alejandro Labaka & Camilo de Torrano; per person per day $120)
Jorge specializes in six- to eight-day adventure trips deep into the jungle (you pay a little more because of corresponding diesel costs) – down to the Nuevo Rocafuerte area near the Peruvian border – on blackwater tributaries where there are higher chances of seeing more exciting wildlife. Accommodation is in basic jungle shelters.
Otobo’s Amazon SafariTOURS
(www.rainforestcamping.com; per person per night $200)
Operated by indigenous Huaorani Otobo and his family, this remote site on the Río Cononaco has platform tents and a thatched-roofed lodge. Visitors hike in the Parque Nacional Yasuní with an English-speaking native guide, and visit lagoons and a local village.
4Sleeping
Hotel Río NapoHOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %06-288-0872; www.hotelrionapo.com; Bolívar 76-06; s/d incl breakfast $23/40; aW)
This smart, clean and bright midrange hotel in the center of town has 29 comfortable air-conditioned rooms with cable TV. You can opt out of breakfast for a slightly cheaper rate. Importantly, it’s safe and has the friendliest staff in town.
Hostal Jungle Santa MaríaHOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %06-288-0287; Rocafuerte, btwn Quito & Napo; s/d without bathroom $10/13, s/d with air-con $15/20; aW)
Here you’ll find the cheapest acceptable bed in town, in neat, clean rooms with room-temperature water only. Don’t hit your head on the low ceiling in the stairwell on the way upstairs.
Heliconias Grand HotelHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %06-288-2010; www.heliconiasgrandhotel.com.ec; Cuenca, near Amazonas; s/d incl breakfast from $42/66; paW)
With more than 40 tiled, faux-colonial rooms surrounding a lovely pool, Coca’s highest-end hotel provides the most blissful retreat from Coca commotion. There’s a small spa and gym.
Hotel La MisiónHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %06-288-0260; hlamision@hotmail.com; Camilo de Torrano; s/d $30/50; paWs)
This longtime Coca staple makes the most of its location right by the Yasuní departure dock. Some of the clean but stuffy rooms have Río Napo views. All come with cable TV, fridges and modern bathrooms. Multiple swimming pools are invariably teeming with screaming children, but you can’t get a more convenient location for embarking on a Yasuní trip.
Views from the riverside La Misión restaurant/bar can’t be bettered in town.
5Eating & Drinking
On Calle Quito between Rocafuerte and Espejo any night of the week, cheerful street vendors serve up grilled meats barbecued right in front of you – it’s a fantastic and very sociable place to eat, and cheap.
La Casa del MaitoSEAFOOD$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Espejo 70-02; mains $4-6; h6am-8pm)
Locals flock in to lunch on delectable fish (mostly tilapia and piranha) cooked in palm leaves on the grill outside. The friendly owner, Luis Duarte, also offers guiding services.
Cevichería ColoradoSEAFOOD$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %098-967-4646; Napo, near Chimborazo; mains $5-9; h7:30am-4pm)
Down towards the river, this popular spot is the place for a bowl of frothy ceviche and a cold beer.
Bar Pappa DansBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %06-288-1345; cnr Chimborazo & Napo; h6pm-late Mon-Sat)
Coca’s first decent-looking bar is a palapa-style place with prime river views and good cocktails. There’s sometimes a small cover charge for live music and dancing on weekends.
7Shopping
Along the new malecón, several stands sell Shuar and Kichwa handicrafts. The Kichwa outlet, called Kallary Kawsay (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Malecón; h8am-5pm), also offers great fruit drinks in a cute river-facing bar.
8Information
Banco del Austro (%06-289-1900; cnr Chimborazo & Quito; h9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) Has reliable ATMs on the Quito side.
Banco del Pichincha (cnr 6 de Diciembre & Bolívar) Has ATMs – and queues for them.
Nuevo Hospital Francisco de Orellana (%06-286-1521; cnr Arazȧ & Palmito)
Post Office (Napo, near Montalvo)
Tourist Information Office (%06-288-0532; www.orellanaturistica.gob.ec; Chimborazo 83-04; h7:30am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat; W) The helpful tourist office offers travelers free internet access, advice on transport to Río Napo lodges, and lectures about the indigenous peoples and rare animals living in Yasuní National Park. There’s only one English speaker, but all are very friendly.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
The airport terminal is almost 2km north of town on the left-hand side of the road to Lago Agrio. The five-minute taxi ride there costs $2.
TAME (%06-288-0786; cnr Castillo & Quito; h8am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat & Sun) flies between Coca and Quito at least once daily (from $82 to $98 each way).
BOAT
Almost all Yasuní lodges use the Puerto La Misión dock within Hostería La Misión.
Coop de Transportes Fluviales Orellana (%06-288-2582; Chimborazo at docks) offers an upriver passenger service in a covered 60-passenger canoe. Buy your ticket early. It departs Sunday, Wednesday and Thursday at 7am for Nuevo Rocafuerte ($18.75, 8 to 10 hours) on the Peruvian border. It returns to Coca, departing Nuevo Rocafuerte on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday at 5am (12 to 14 hours).
Although there’s usually a stop for lunch, bring food and water for the long trip – and be ready at Coca’s main dock 30 minutes before departure. Ask at the dock about faster boats, which big groups can charter for around $70 to the border.
BUS
Coca, among its growing number of boasts, has one of Ecuador’s best new bus terminals – 3km north of town. A taxi here costs around $2.50. All main destinations are served.
Rancheras (open-sided buses, or trucks mounted with uncomfortably narrow bench seats – also known as chivas) leave from the market on Alejandro Labaka two blocks back from the river, heading for various destinations between Coca and Lago Agrio, and to Río Tiputini to the south. Cooperativa Camionetas Río Napo pickup trucks and taxis provide services around/outside town.
Buses run to Tena ($8.75, 4 hours) as well as Oriente destinations further to the south, Lago Agrio ($3.75, 2 hours) and Quito ($12.50, 10 hours).
Vía Auca
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This unfortunately named road (‘auca’ means ‘savage’ in Kichwa) from Coca crosses the Río Napo and continues south across Río Tiputini and Río Shiripuno, ending near the small community of Tiguino on Río Tiguino. The area used to be Huaorani territory and virgin jungle, but when this oil-exploration road was built in the 1980s, the Huaorani were pushed out. The area is being colonized, and cattle ranches and oil rigs are replacing the jungle in spite of conservationist efforts.
The rivers crossed by the road provide access to remote parts of both the Huaorani reserve and Yasuní, but you should only enter with authorized guides.
4Sleeping
Shiripuno Amazon LodgeLODGE$$$
(%02-227-1094 in Quito; www.shiripunolodge.com; 3 nights incl full board per person $670) S
Some 75km south of Coca you’ll find Shiripuno Lodge, one of the few lodges within Yasuní National Park. It’s a simple place with no electricity, deep in the forest and perfect for those seeking a real jungle experience. Volunteer opportunities are also available here at the Shiripuno Research Center, with a minimum commitment of four weeks.
8Getting There & Away
Daily rancheras go as far as Tiguino. If you’re staying at Shiripuno Amazon Lodge, most packages include round-trip transport from Quito.
Lower Río Napo
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The Río Napo flows east from Coca on a steady course toward the Amazon River in Peru. Just after Coca, the river widens into a powerful waterway that can flood villages and islands. This long, lonesome stretch of the Napo, running along the edge of Parque Nacional Yasuní, houses some of Ecuador’s best jungle lodges and boasts some of the country’s better wildlife-spotting possibilities. On the way there, you’ll spot some of the oil development causing ongoing controversial headlines.
2Activities
Anakonda River CruisesCRUISE
(%02-336-0887 in Quito, 1-786-220-3251 in the US; www.anakondaamazoncruises.com; s/d cabin 3 nights incl full board $3279/4392)
See the Río Napo on three- to seven-night cruises that ply the river as far as Nuevo Rocafuerte. The Anakonda, a 40-passenger-capacity luxury vessel built in 2013, offers a nigh-on boutique hotel experience. Excursions and activities are included, while add-ons like glamping cost extra. Impressively spacious cabins have private balconies and Jacuzzis. Meals are spectacularly gourmet.
Along the way, there’s the chance for a spot of jungle glamping.
4Sleeping
Due to the uniquely challenging environment that is the Amazon rainforest, as well as the need to tread sensitively and ethically in the homeland of the local indigenous people, it is strongly recommended – and a richer experience – to arrange travel to the Lower Río Napo region through a lodge or tour operator. Book directly with lodges online or at their Quito offices.
oNapo Wildlife CenterLODGE$$$
(MAP; %800-176-647 in Australia, 02-600-5893 in Quito, 800-0325-771 in the UK, 800-250-1992 in the US; www.napowildlifecenter.com; s/d 3 nights incl full board $2126/2834; iW) S
As the lodge most ensconced within Parque Nacional Yasuní, the sumptuous Napo Wildlife Center (NWC) enjoys a pristine setting with rarely paralleled access to wildlife. This ecotourism project is 100% owned by Añangu’s Kichwa community; they make up almost the entire lodge staff.
One of the most enjoyable aspects here is simply arriving: you’ll be paddled a couple of hours from the Río Napo, down a thrillingly wild blackwater creek replete with birds and animals.
Eventually you’ll arrive at Añangucocha, the lagoon where NWC’s 16 red-hued rooms enjoy a prime position on the far side. The rooms are stylishly well appointed, with lake views from most. Four suites are even bigger, with outdoor Jacuzzis on terraces at the back. The fabulous communal areas are spacious and open, with a lovely wooden deck, small library and elevated viewing platform. Meals here are delicious and varied.
Trips are guided by local Añangu villagers trained as Yasuní park rangers and bilingual naturalist guides. Two parrot clay licks on the property are a major attraction for bird-watchers, who also come from surrounding lodges to see parrots, parakeets and macaws. Between late October and early April is the best time to see up to 10 species of parrot – sometimes numbering in the thousands. A short hike from the lodge, a 36m steel tower offers a spectacular canopy panorama and prolific birdlife. The rare zigzag heron has been spotted on the property.
The center has won numerous awards, not only for its connection to the local community, but for ecologically sound practices, including an environmentally sustainable sewage system, composting latrines, solar panels and quality guiding. It’s generally held to be the most luxurious and most environmentally sensitive of the lower Río Napo lodges and is highly recommended.
Those on a budget can also stay within Parque Nacional Yasuní at the sister site Napo Cultural Center, run by the same community. The lodge is actually within the Kichwa village alongside the Río Napo, so while the experience is somewhat less wild, it’s a wonderful place to learn more about Kichwa culture, and the lodge facilities are excellent.
Sacha LodgeLODGE$$$
(MAP; %02-256-6090 in Quito, 800-706-2215 in the US; www.sachalodge.com; s/d 3 nights incl full board $1575/2100; i)
Enjoying a spectacular setting on the inland lake of Pilchecocha (Laguna El Pilche), a short hike and canoe ride from the Río Napo, Sacha Lodge is one of Ecuador’s best jungle lodges. Opened in 1992, this Swiss-run place has never rested on its laurels and offers one of the most luxurious rainforest experiences possible.
As well as employing and training indigenous people to work in the tourism industry, Sacha has been steadily purchasing plots from Ecuadorian smallholders who were using it to farm, and allowing the rainforest to reclaim the land purchased. The lodge sits on 5000 acres of reclaimed land now fully protected for forestation, and is the largest private reserve in Ecuador.
Guests are welcomed to the open-air, lakeside dining terrace, which serves as the main restaurant. The lodge’s boardwalks tentacle out to 26 cabins, each with a spacious, modern bathroom, dry box for cameras, 24-hour hot water and electricity, and a hammock deck for shady siestas and wildlife-watching. Older units are built deeper into the jungle – but as a result present better wildlife-watching opportunities. All rooms have safes and are very well screened – mosquito nets aren’t used because the threat is small. Food is superb, and there’s a pleasant upstairs bar in a central palapa, popular in the evenings.
Hikes and canoe trips typically consist of about five tourists, with a bilingual naturalist and local guide. The terrain includes flat and hilly rainforest, various lakes, coiling rivers and swamps. The 5000 acres are visited by six kinds of monkey, toucans, poison dart frogs, peccaries, sloths, anacondas, caiman and black agoutis.
The lodge’s showpiece is a massive metal canopy walkway that stretches between three platforms, 60m off the ground. Birdwatchers covet the early morning experience of standing on the creaking giant to watch the fog lift on an array of avian and primate life. A separate 45m-high wooden observation deck atop a huge ceiba tree is another way to get high up.
Getting here is an adventure – a two-hour motorized canoe ride from Coca is followed by a leisurely walk through the forest on an elevated boardwalk. You’re then taken on a 15-minute paddle up a blackwater canal and across a lake in a dugout canoe.
Napo Cultural CenterJUNGLE LODGE$$$
(MAP; %02-254-7758; www.yasuniecolodge.travel; s/d 3 nights incl full board from $868/1460; W) S
The lodge formerly known as Yasuní Ecolodge (same excellent community-run lodge) offers four spacious cabañas, each housing four luxurious rooms fitted out with spacious showers and bathrooms, wood construction and vaulted ceilings, terraces with cozy chairs and comfortable, mosquito-netted beds. Its beautifully landscaped grounds sit harmoniously in Añangu village, so guests are somewhat ensconced in the quotidian activities of a well-to-do Kichwa community.
La Selva Jungle LodgeLODGE$$$
(MAP; %02-515-4000 in Quito, 800-032-8271 in the UK, 866-87-3109 in the US; www.laselvajunglelodge.com; s/d 3 nights incl full board $1580/2430)
The oldest lodge on the lower Napo, Norwegian-Ecuadorian owned La Selva Jungle Lodge stands on the shores of Laguna Garzacocha. Recently refurbished, the new-look accommodations are in light, airy and rather elegant suites, making this absolutely top-end.
Spacious (20 sq meter) rooms now feature beautiful king-size beds, ceiling fans, mosquito nets, extensive closets, luxury bathrooms and either private porches or balconies with lake views. Three family suites also get hot tubs. Raised walkways connect the complex. Meals are delicious and presented in a spacious dining room overlooking the lake.
With more than 500 bird species, La Selva is a major bird-watching spot. A 43m-high canopy platform, 20 minutes’ walk from the lodge, affords even better viewing. Monkeys and other mammals are frequently seen, and brilliantly colored butterflies flit about in an enormous butterfly-breeding complex that’s open to visitors. Swimming and canoeing are also both possible on the lake.
La Selva is about 2½ hours downriver from Coca in a motorized canoe. It’s then reached by a gentle walk through the jungle, followed by a canoe trip across the lagoon.
Yarina EcolodgeLODGE$$$
(%02-250-4037 in Quito; www.yarinalodge.com; s/d 3 nights incl full board $690/920)
The Río Manduro meets the Napo an hour downstream from Coca, and a further 10 minutes down this blackwater stream you’ll find Yarina Lodge, a hillside camp of 26 bamboo, thatched-roofed cabañas. Yarina is geared toward budget travelers and doesn’t feel as remote as those camps further downstream, but it provides excellent services and has enthusiastic and professional English-speaking guides.
Meals, with vegetarian options, are well prepared in a communal lodge that features hammocks. Two- and three-bed cabins come equipped with mosquito nets, modern bathrooms, electricity and 24-hour hot water.
Besides the expected jungle walks and activities, there is a nearby ‘rehabilitation area,’ where animals rescued from traffickers in Coca spend time before being released into the wild. Kichwa cookery classes are on offer too. Rates include all meals and tours with Spanish- and English-speaking local guides.
Book online or via the Quito office (%02-250-4037; www.yarinalodge.com; Av Amazonas N24-240 near Av Colón).
Sani LodgeJUNGLE LODGE$$$
(MAP; %02-243-6801 in Quito; www.sanilodge.com; s/d 3 nights incl full board $1270/2116; W)
Owned by the local Sani community, Sani Lodge is one of the lower-priced options around, but unlike other economy lodges it’s located very deep in the rainforest, enjoying one of the most beautiful locations of any jungle lodge in Ecuador.
The lodge came into being as part of a deal between the local community and the Occidental Oil Company. In exchange for allowing Occidental to explore for oil on its land, the Sani community asked them to build a tourist lodge they could run. Occidental did not find oil, but Sani Lodge was nevertheless built. All profits from tourism go back into the Kichwa community in the form of scholarships, a community store that eases the need for local hunting, emergency medical funds etc.
After traveling up a small tributary of the Río Napo, visitors are greeted with a welcome at the lodge’s open-air bar, overlooking Challuacocha, Sani’s enchanting blackwater oxbow lake. Ten cabins each sleep two to three people and have private hot-water bathrooms, comfortable beds, mosquito screens and a small porch. There are also four family-sized cabins and a camping area in a separate area reachable by canoe. The latter can be a great money-saver – tents are provided and share a staffed kitchen and bathrooms with running water.
Monkeys, sloths and black caiman are regularly spotted, and the lodge’s bird list records more than 570 species (the 30m-high tree tower will help you find them). Guides here (native and English-speaking naturalists) are excellent for their knowledge of, and respect for, the jungle. Most enjoy showing visitors the Sani community to reinforce how the lodge has created an important, sustainable economy.
WHAT KIND OF TRIP IS THIS?
Think twice if your jungle tour offers ayahuasca, a psychotropic plant used ritually in Amazon cultures, as part of the authentic experience. Only a professional shaman (who may not necessarily be ‘dressed up’ for the occasion) has the trained ability to carry out ‘readings’ for patients as part of his diagnostic arts. The intake of this psychotropic plant should be considered only on rare occasions.
There are many factors to consider prior to taking ayahuasca, such as the need for dietary preparation and true professional supervision and guidance, and the timing of menstrual cycles – it’s essential to be in the hands of a professional shaman. Dangerous side effects from ayahuasca, either due to medication you might be taking or negligent preparation of the plant, could ruin your trip.
There are a number of books available on the subject. A good tour operator should be able to provide you with these for a deep-rooted, preliminary understanding of what a genuine ayahuasca ritual entails – if your operator can’t supply these resources, find a new operator.
8Getting There & Away
Lower Río Napo river lodges include transport to and from Coca in their rates. The lodges’ dedicated canoes depart only on days on which guests are booked, so it’s recommended to reserve in advance.
TO/FROM PERU
Exit and entry formalities in Ecuador are handled in Nuevo Rocafuerte; in Peru, try your best to settle them in Pantoja, with Iquitos as backup. Private boats from Nuevo Rocafuerte charge $60 per boat to Pantoja. Cargo boats travel from Pantoja to Iquitos (a three- to five-day trip) when they have enough cargo to justify the trip. A hammock and 19L of water, in addition to food, are recommended – food on the boats can be dodgy. The experience can be rough: there may be only one bathroom, crowded conditions and lots of livestock on board. Boats vary in quality, but if you’ve been waiting a long time for one to arrive, you may not want to be picky.
Laguna Pañacocha
This quiet, hidden blackwater lagoon is a short boat ride off the Río Napo through a wild network of creeks brimming with wildlife. Pañacocha, which means ‘Lake of Piranhas’ in Kichwa, is frequently visited by local lodge tour groups, who come up here on day trips to fish for piranha and spot some of the pink freshwater dolphins that can often be seen in the lagoon. Nearby oil development has reduced sightings, however.
Ask when you book your tour/lodge whether the lagoon features on the itinerary.
4Sleeping
Amazon Dolphin LodgeJUNGLE LODGE$$$
(MAP; %02-250-4037 in Quito; www.amazondolphinlodge.com; per person 3 nights incl breakfast $600)
One of several lodges near Laguna Pañacocha, and probably the best. Simple, with 11 cabins.
8Getting There & Away
The lagoon can be explored independently, although you’ll have to rely on a bit of luck to find a fairly priced boat operator when you need one. Hire a local canoe where the Río Pañayacu meets the Río Napo, which can be reached by a Nuevo Rocafuerte-bound boat from Coca.
Pañacocha is four to five hours downstream from Coca (depending on your motor), or about halfway to Nuevo Rocafuerte.
Nuevo Rocafuerte
A distant dot on the map for many people, Nuevo Rocafuerte is in no danger of losing its mystery. While backpackers may bubble with excitement at the idea of floating the Napo all the way to Peru and the Amazon River, only the most intrepid travelers rise to the occasion. In this truly off-the-beaten-track adventure, aspiring ‘survivors’ may have to endure cramped and wet travel, the possibility of seeing their next meal slaughtered, and potential illness.
Nuevo Rocafuerte is on the Peruvian border, eight to 10 hours from Coca along the Río Napo. This is a legal border crossing with Peru, although regular passenger-boat transport is lacking and accommodations are basic.
Arrange a tour in Parque Nacional Yasuní or Cuyabeno reserve while you wait for your onward transportation: more and more tours from Coca use the blackwater rivers around Nuevo Rocafuerte as there’s less pollution and more animal sightings than upriver.
4Sleeping
Hostal ChimborazoHOTEL$
(%06-238-2109; r per person $10; W)
Clean and comfortable wood-paneled rooms. Breakfast is available ($3). The hotel can also arrange onward transportation.
8Information
For local information, tours or to hire a boat, contact local guide Juan Carlos ‘Chuso’ Cuenca (06-238-2182); his house is the second one after the marina.
8Getting There & Away
Coop de Transportes Fluviales Orellana passenger canoes to Coca depart at 5am on Wednesday, Saturday & Sunday. The trip ($18.75) takes approximately eight to 12 hours, with a lunch stop in Pañacocha. The canoe is covered but you should still bring rain gear, food and water. Low-water conditions may prolong the trip. Even if you have a ticket, be sure to be at the departure point by 4:30am, as boats leave once they’re full.
If you are continuing to Peru, inquire at the Coop de Transportes Fluviales Orellana in Coca, when you buy your ticket downstream, for phone numbers of cargo boats which may be connecting to Pantoja/Iquitos. But nothing guarantees timing; there’s a good chance you’ll get stuck here, so be prepared. Bring adequate supplies of water-purification tablets, insect repellent and food. Also, consider getting Peruvian currency in Quito before arriving.
To get to Iquitos, Peru (from where boats head down to Brazil and Colombia) it’s best to travel downstream across the border to Pantoja. (Canoes can be hired for $60 per boatload.) Pantoja has a hotel, restaurant and disco.
Parque Nacional Yasuní
With a massive 9620 sq km section of wetlands, marshes, swamps, lakes, rivers and tropical rainforest, Yasuní National Park ($2, parrot clay lick $20) is Ecuador’s largest mainland park. Its staggering biodiversity led Unesco to declare it an international biosphere reserve, and it was established as a national park shortly after, in 1979. Because this pocket of life was untouched by the last ice age, a diverse pool of species has thrived here throughout the centuries, including more than 600 bird species, some previously unknown elsewhere. Resident animals include some hard-to-see jungle wildlife, such as jaguars, harpy eagles, pumas and tapirs.
History
Yasuní stands today as one of the last true wildernesses in Ecuador. Its inaccessibility has preserved it in ways that active protection cannot. Bordered by Río Napo to the north and Río Curaray to the southeast, the park encompasses most of the watersheds of Ríos Yasuní and Nashiño, as well as substantial parts of Río Tiputini. Its diverse habitats consist of ‘terra firma’ (forested hills), which are never inundated even by the highest floods; varzea (lowlands), which are periodically inundated by flooding rivers; and igapó (semipermanently inundated lowlands).
A small number of Tagaeri, Taromenani and Oñamenane people live within the park. Park territory has been altered to protect these traditional populations of hunter-gatherers, who vehemently resist contact with the outside world. The nearby Reserva Huaorani contributes as an ecological buffer zone for the national park.
Oil discovery within the park has complicated this conservation success story. In 1991, despite Yasuní’s protected status, the Ecuadorian government gave the US-based oil company Conoco the right to begin oil exploration. Since then the concession has changed hands several times. Conoco was soon replaced by the Maxus Oil Consortium, whose legacy is the Maxus road, which slices 150km into the park. While the road was designed to be lifted up and removed, the forest cut in its wake is not as easily replaced, and the subsequent link to the interior for outsiders causes its own kind of degradation.
In 2007 the Ecuadorian government launched the Yasuní-ITT Initiative under which it effectively promises to leave the estimated 846 million barrels of oil within the vast ITT (Ishpingo-Tambococha-Tiputini) oilfield underground in exchange for some $3.6 billion of foreign money and debt relief over 13 years. However, in 2013, Ecuadorian President Rafael Correa concluded that the funds raised – while considerable – were not economically sufficient. He closed the Initiative: sadly, oil companies have since moved in and begun drilling operations.
8Getting There & Away
River lodges and tour operators include boat transport and sometimes airport transfers in their packages. Coca serves as the usual jumping-off point into the park.
Parque Nacional Sumaco Napo Galeras
A smooth, paved road connects Coca via Loreto to Tena, passing by the southern entrance to this large and stunning slice of little-explored cloud forest. Nowhere else in Ecuador is there such a vast area totally free of development – making its myriad ecosystems, including thick rainforest, cloud forest, hidden caves and cliffs and bare, volcanic uplands – precious indeed.
The centerpiece of the 2052-sq-km park is 3732m Volcán Sumaco, which is plagued by wet weather. The volcano is currently dormant, although vulcanologists believe it could become active. It lies about 27km north of the Cocai-Loreto-Tena road.
2Activities
The tough hike to the summit is a three- to five-day round-trip. Making the effort will reap dividends: this is one of Ecuador’s few trails transecting the three distinct climatic zones of rainforest, cloud forest and páramo (exposed mountainous uplands). Overnight stays are in one of the volcano’s three new refugios (mountain refuges). Trails are muddy year-round, but drier between October and December. On the upper slopes, the rare woolly monkeys can be seen – as well as a host of birdlife throughout.
Guides are required for any summit attempts in this national park, as it is a conservation area rather than a recreational one, and summiting involves bushwhacking along poorly marked trails. Hire guides (per day $35) through the Centro de Turismo Comunitario (%098-421-8470, 06-301-8324; infosumaco@gmail.com) in the village of Pacto Sumaco, 9km north (uphill) from the Loreto road. The national park has an office (%06-301-8303, 06-301-8325) at the start of the track up from the main road, and can offer basic accommodation and help arrange guide services.
4Sleeping
There’s a good range of lodgings in the area, although all are fairly simple. If you’re doing a multiday trek, you’ll be camping in rainforest, cloud forest and páramo as you ascend – be prepared for wet weather.
CasitaCABIN$
(MAP; Pacto Sumaco; per person $30)
A simple place with self-catering facilities and an incredible roof terrace where wheeling toucans often provide evening entertainment. Ask at Wildsumaco Lodge or in the village for more information.
Reserva Biológica Río BigalLODGE$$
(%098-930-6988, 098-710-5385, 099-812-3023; http://bigalriverbiologicalreserve.org; per person incl full board visitor/volunteer $70/55) S
Río Bigal welcomes visitors interested in a purely back-to-nature experience (three-night minimum), and those who wish to get their hands dirty in participatory research are also welcome, with a minimum commitment of seven days when opportunities are available. All stays include accommodation, full board, activities, night walks and mule porter for the hike in. Reservations are essential.
Transport via 4WD from Loreto (one hour) is not included. Volunteer opportunities for construction or education work are also available; contact the reserve for specifics.
Wildsumaco LodgeLODGE$$$
(MAP; %06-301-8343, in Quito 02-333-1189; www.wildsumaco.com; s/d full board $177/323)
Located 1km south of Pacto Sumaco, the Wildsumaco Lodge makes a good base for climbing Volcán Sumaco. Set on a hilltop with panoramic mountain views, a wooden house with a deck serves as a gathering spot for guests, most of whom come for the birds, a unique mixture of cloud forest, foothill and Amazonian species. Booking ahead is mandatory.
Concrete rooms are simple but tasteful with wood floors, comfy beds, plenty of hot water and electricity. A web of trails starts at the lodge, providing access to the abundance of birds and wildlife. The price includes basic guide services; specialized bird guides can be requested in advance. The Swedish and American owners are conservation-minded and started the Río Pucuno Foundation (www.riopucunofoundation.org) to preserve forest in the area.
8Getting There & Away
Buses from Quito to Coca head east on the Loreto road; the turnoff at Wawa Sumaco leads up to Pacto Sumaco.
Cotundo & Archidona
%06
While Tena is by no means a metropolis, its outlying towns of Cotundo and Archidona offer more of a relaxed, small-town Amazonía pace. If you’re not in the area for a dose of foreigner-friendly white-water adventure, these little towns make great bases for exploring the other local attractions without the distractions of bigger-city rattle and hum.
Situated 7km south of Cotundo, Archidona, originally a mission founded in 1560, is a village of sleepy pastel facades, with a zebra-striped church poking up out of a manicured plaza. Sundays are market days.
1Sights
The road south from Quito to Tena descends near the lonely village of Cotundo into the Valle de los Petroglifos, where fascinating petroglyphs are etched into valley rocks. A trail is marked from the main road but to see the best, it’s worth enlisting the services of a guide: ask at accommodating Huasquila Lodge. Caving hereabouts is good. The Gran Canyon, 4km north of Cotundo, is a half-day canyon hike full of swimming holes and caves along a tributary of the Río Jondachi.
Cuevas de JumandíCAVE
(MAP; $3; h9am-5pm)
About 4km north of Archidona, you’ll find Cuevas de Jumandí. This cave system, the best known in the area, has three main branches that remain partly unexplored. Forgo the sketchy waterslides that dump into a river-water pool, and tread slowly (with a flashlight) to see stalactites, stalagmites and odd formations. Rubber boots and old clothes will serve you well.
For thorough exploration, you’ll need a guide from Tena or on-site – ask guide companies in Tena for a customized day trip to the caves.
4Sleeping
Huasquila LodgeLODGE$$
(MAP; %02-237-6158 in Quito; www.huasquila.com; per person incl dinner & breakfast $69, 4 nights incl all meals and activities per person $460)
Cresting a hillside 3km above Cotundo, Huasquila Lodge has 20 rustic but well-appointed and cozy cabins. There’s a good restaurant, a pool and a mix of tours from secondary jungle hikes to petroglyph-spotting and caving. A taxi from Cotundo’s main square is $3.
Hostería Orchids ParadiseHOTEL$$
(MAP; %06-288-9232; www.elparaisodelasorquideas.com.ec; r per person incl full board $60; pWs)
The best local accommodations, this friendly hotel occupies its own sprawling grounds just outside town on the Tena road. There’s a spacious thatched-hut restaurant-bar, a huge pool and cabins with screened windows and hot water. The lodge operates a monkey-rescue program – see the results swinging in the trees – and can arrange for day trips and multiday packages.
8Getting There & Away
Buses from Tena ($0.25) leave for Cotundo and Archidona throughout the day.
Tena
%06 / Pop 23,300 / Elev 598m
Unusually for a jungle transport hub, Tena is a charming place where many travelers find themselves hanging around quite happily for days before or after a trip into the rainforest. While it won’t win architectural prizes anytime soon, Tena has a friendly population, a gorgeous setting surrounded by jungle-covered hills and lots of backpacker infrastructure. White-water fanatics from around the globe come to paddle and play on the high concentration of surrounding rivers, and the town is home to lots of experienced and highly recommended kayaking operators.
The capital of Napo province, Tena was founded in 1560 and plagued by early indigenous uprisings. Jumandy, chief of the Kichwa, led a fierce but unsuccessful revolt against the Spaniards in 1578. The anniversary of the town’s foundation is celebrated on November 15 with live music and community events.
1Sights & Activities
On a clear day it’s sometimes possible to see Volcán Sumaco looming from the jungle 50km away. To imbibe the Tena vibe, take a turn along the inviting malecón (waterfront) which runs east and west along the banks of the Río Tena for a few blocks. Tena’s newer (southernmost) footbridge, connecting across to Parque Amazónico, has a futuristic-looking mirador (viewing tower). Cross the river on this one; come back on the old footbridge, just north. Market days are Friday and Saturday.
Parque Amazónico La IslaZOO
(MAP; btwn Ríos Pano & Tena; h8am-5pm) F
Take the snazzy new footbridge part-way across the river to this 27-hectare island. There’s a self-guided trail whisking you past labeled local plants and animal enclosures, including those of tapirs and monkeys. It’s worth the clamber up to this urban park’s lofty mirador to see Tena’s rather stunning surrounding terrain.
White-Water Rafting
Tena is Ecuador’s white-water rafting center. However, mining around the town is forcing operators to take groups further away to find unspoiled river. Trips range from gentle scenic floats to exhilarating rapids and first descents in gorgeous landscapes. Serious outfitters will have everything you would expect – decent life jackets, professional guides, first-aid supplies and throw bags. Many use safety kayakers who paddle alongside the boat in case of capsizings. It’s worth signing up with one of these outfits. Kayakers can hire guides or arrange for transportation and put-ins in town.
One of the most popular local trips is to the upper Río Napo (called Jatunyacu locally, which means ‘big water’ in Kichwa), where rafters tackle a fun 25km stretch of Class III+ white water, suitable for all levels. For more excitement, the Río Misahuallí has wild Class IV+ rapids and includes a portage around a waterfall.
oRiver PeopleRAFTING
(MAP; %099-544-0234, 06-286-5197; http://riverpeopleecuador.com; VIa a Inchillaqu)
Run by the Dent family from England, River People is a top-notch outfitter that consistently gets rave reviews. River People has been pioneering rafting on previously untried rivers throughout the region, including the remote Río Hollín, where groups of experienced rafters camp overnight in pristine rainforest. One popular tour is the challenging two-day expedition to the nearby Río Quijos, site of the 2005 World Rafting Championships.
Guides have a minimum of eight years’ experience and speak English. Jungle camping, kayaking instruction and tailor-made trips are possible.
Caveman AdventuresRAFTING
(MAP; %06-288-8394; www.cavemanecuador.com; Orellana 666, near Tarquí; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat)
The name is the only bad thing about this adventure outfit. Kayaking novices get some of the best instruction there is at this outfitter with US-trained guides. They also run memorable multiday trips for kayakers and rafters of all levels, down classic white-water stretches like the Jatunyacu ($60) and the Jondachi and Hollín ($80).
Raft AmazoníaRAFTING
(MAP; %06-288-6853; www.raftamazonia.com)
Run by a local indigenous family, Raft Amazonía offers rafting and kayaking trips with friendly, experienced, licensed guides (who get excellent reviews from guests). They also run caving and cultural tours from their base in Tena.
Ríos EcuadorRAFTING
(MAP; %099-680-4046, 06-288-6727; www.riosecuador.com; Tarqui)
This long-standing outfitter doesn’t have quite the reputation it did but offers wide-ranging rafting trips for all tastes. Most popular is the day trip ($65) down a 25km stretch of the Jatunyacu. Another trip suitable for beginners is a one-day excursion to the Ríos Toachi and Blanco, boasting some of Ecuador’s longest white-water runs ($87). Many other river trips are also available.
Guides mostly speak English. Be aware that the Tena office is usually closed so booking online is the best bet.
AquaXtremeRAFTING
(MAP; %06-288-8746; www.axtours.com; Orellana, near Pano; h9am-6:30pm Tue-Sat)
This operator, based on the Tena riverfront, has full-day trips on the Jatunyacu ($63) and the Misahuallí ($75), plus plenty of other destinations. The company also offers horseback riding, caving, kayaking and biking trips. Guides speak English.
TTours
Juan GarcesJUNGLE TOURS
(%098-461-4199, 06-306-2907; joseluisgarces2002@yahoo.com)
Enterprising guide Juan Garces speaks fluent English, French and Kichwa and, more critically, knows the jungle hereabouts like the back of his hand. Kayaking, chocolate-making and jungle hikes are all available, as are multiday adventures downriver towards the Peruvian frontier. Prices start around $50 per person per day – more, naturally, if you stay at his Sacha Sisa Lodge out past Misahuallí.
Pakay ToursJUNGLE TOURS
(MAP; %06-284-7449, 099-033-5295; www.ecuadorpakaytours.com)
Based out of Hostal Pakay, English- and German-speaking guide Tony Altamirano specializes in rainforest hikes and cultural immersion experiences with rainforest communities. Want to use a blowgun or taste lemon ants? Look no further. Further-afield tours, such as to Parque Nacional Cuyabeno, are available.
Gary Garces & Michelle KleinJUNGLE TOURS
(MAP; %099-549-8228, 099-549-8118, in the US 480-264-8470)
The husband-and-wife duo behind hostel La Casa Blanca, Gary and Michelle, also offer interesting tours. Gary has more than a decade’s guiding experience and does several off-beat trips around Tena; one of their most popular is a jungle adventure (from $180) featuring seven activities over two days, sleeping in cabins with hot water, comfortable mosquito-netted beds and great food.
4Sleeping
oHostal PakayHOSTEL$
(MAP; %06-284-7449; above Av Perimetral; incl breakfast dm $13, s/d $26/34/48, without bathroom $22/30/45; pW) S
Surrounded by woodland, a stay at the ecofriendly Hostal Pakay is more like a jungle lodge experience than a town hostel experience. Wooden rooms are clean and tidy, kayakers and backpackers love the chill-out terrace, and the on-site tour agency is increasingly renowned. Much of the breakfast fruit is grown in the lush grounds.
It’s a steep 20-minute hike up from the bus station so get a taxi here.
oLa Casa del AbueloGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP; %06-288-8926, 06-288-6318; www.tomas-lodge.com; Calle Mera 628; s/d/tr $22/34/50; paiW)
This nicely refurbished colonial-style home, tucked away on a quiet street, easily maintains its place among the city’s elite digs. Public areas are full of eclectic arts and crafts; rooms themselves have a cozy, homey feel with high ceilings, adobe walls and wood floors. Free coffee; breakfast costs $3 to $5 extra. Ask the owners about their rural guesthouse on the river, 5km away.
La Casa BlancaHOSTEL$
(MAP; %099-549-8228, 06-231-0456; www.casablancatena.com; cnr Churiyuyo & Ishpingo; dm/s/d $12/19/38; W)
Situated 1.5km northwest of the center, laid-back, spick-and-span Casa Blanca aims to provide weary backpackers with everything they wanted to find in a hostel elsewhere, but couldn’t. The wonderfully equipped kitchen, spacious rooms hung with Otavalo tapestries, ‘honesty system’ for chilled beers, special boot-wash area, washer-dryer, in-house tour agency… Gary and Michelle have it nailed.
There are discounts for weekly and monthly stays. La Casa Blanca is in the Aeropuerto Dos neighborhood north of the old airstrip: taxi drivers mostly now know it.
Brisa del RíoGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP; %06-288-6444, 06-288-6208; Orellana, near Pano; per person with/without bathroom $15/9; aWs)
Rarely are backpacker places in the jungle so clean and well located. Right on the riverfront, there is also a kitchen and a miniscule plunge pool. Shared bathrooms are very clean, while rooms with private bathrooms also have air-con.
Hostal LimoncochaHOSTEL$
(MAP; %06-284-6303; www.hostallimoncocha.com; Paso Urco, btwn Av del Chofer & Rosales; dm $7, s/d $14/26, without bathroom $9/16; paiW)
Backpackers frequent this spot on the hill, 300m southeast from the bus station, because they’re the cheapest beds worth having in Tena, because of the great views, and because this is a time-tested traveler hangout. Rooms are chipper, with clean private bathrooms. Breakfast ($3) is available, and there’s a guest kitchen and on-site tour operator.
Hostal Los YutzosHOTEL$$
(MAP; %06-288-6717; yutzos@outlook.com; Rueda 190; s/d incl breakfast $27/46, with air-con $40/54; paW)
The spacious, comfortable rooms and tranquil riverside setting make this Tena’s best accommodation option. There’s a tiled balcony with wooden loungers, overlooking the gurgling river. The garden is thick with green and hammocks. Be sure to book ahead at the weekend and during holidays.
Hotel PumarosaHOTEL$$
(MAP; %096-759-8667, 06-288-6320; Orellana, near 15 de Noviembre; s/d from $15/30; paWs)
Inviting rooms at Hotel Pumarosa have high wooden ceilings, large armoires and modern white-tiled bathrooms. There is reliable hot water, cable TV, lush gardens and billiards in the open-air lobby. The disco and roller-rink next door mean loud weekend nights, but, on the plus side, guests enjoy free entry. The most intriguing tour possibility is to visit the cacao plantations that produce Kallari chocolate.
Hotel Cristian’s PalaceHOTEL$$
(MAP; %06-288-6047; hotelcristianpalace@gmail.com; Mera; per person incl breakfast $25; paWs)
The swishest spot in town is on the large side by local standards. Rooms are spacious with good bathrooms, TV and writing tables in most, and surround a murky pool, a sauna and gym, which are all free for guests to use. Insider tip: ask for a mini-suite, which costs the same as a standard room.
5Eating
oCafé TortugaINTERNATIONAL$
(MAP; Orellana; snacks $1.50-5; h7am-7:30pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun; W)
Everyone in town seems to drop by this super-popular Swiss-run riverfront joint, whether it’s for the wide choice of breakfasts, delicious batidos (fruit shakes) or range of salads, sandwiches and cakes. Tortuga is especially popular with backpackers, and is a great place to meet other travelers. There is a good book exchange.
Tienda AhimsaVEGETARIAN$
(MAP; %06-301-9172; almuerzos $4; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat)
The lovely owner of this excellent vegetarian eatery prepares most dishes to order, so unless you request the daily almuerzo (set lunch), don’t be in a hurry. You’ll want to savor the mostly vegan, wholly delicious arepas, burritos, veggie burgers and desserts. She doesn’t have a formal menu, so ask what’s being served the day(s) you visit – vegans, note: desserts sometimes incorporate dairy.
Restaurante La IslaPIZZA$
(MAP; %06-287-1026; cnr Orellana & Pano; dishes $4-9; h10am-10pm; W
c)
Right on the malecón across from the southern footbridge, this friendly, open-air spot serves up good, topping-laden pizzas, chicken wings, sandwiches and juices.
Asadero de Pollos Sin RivalCHICKEN$
(MAP; 15 de Noviembre, btwn San Miguel & Av del Chofer; quarter/half/whole roasted chicken $3/6/12; h10am-3:30pm)
Believe the translation of this place (chicken without rival) if you believe no other sign in Ecuador. It’s only open lunchtimes – until that roast chicken is gone.
Pizzería Bella Selva 2PIZZA$$
(MAP; mains $3-18; h5-10pm)
The pizza here is just about as good as you’ll get in the Oriente and as a riverfront melting pot of local families, businessmen and tourists it’s the most buzzing place for dinner. Oh, and their salsa: aiaiai!
6Drinking & Entertainment
Dance floors pulse on weekends, so slip into the mix. Discos open from approximately 8pm to 2am Sunday to Wednesday, and to about 3am Thursday to Saturday.
Guayusa LoungeLOUNGE
(MAP; %06-288-8561; Sucre, near Olmedo; cocktails $4; h4-11pm Tue-Sat)
Inside or out, the ambiance at this hip spot is invitingly chill. The interior, brightened by huge picture windows, feels spacious and jungle-industrial, while the outdoor patio in enclosed in greenery and the sounds of chirping frogs. Come here for cocktails concocted with Amazonian herbs like guayusa and ishpingo, and stay for the refreshingly different rice bowls, salads and appetizers.
La Araña Bar CocteleríaBAR
(MAP; Main Plaza; h5pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
The most popular place for drinking and carousing is the raucous ‘spider,’ across the river at the end of the footbridge. It’s busy nightly, and rammed with locals and travelers on the weekend. Expect a hangover.
Discoteca La GalleraDISCO
(MAP; Orellana; $2)
Found next to Hotel Pumarosa, La Gallera has a fun but grown-up atmosphere, even though there’s an attached roller-rink. Hotel guests enter for free.
8Information
Banco del Austro (15 de Noviembre) This bank has an ATM.
Banco Pichincha (15 de Noviembre) Almost opposite the fuel station; has the most reliable ATMs.
Hospital (%06-284-6786, 06-284-6755; 15 de Noviembre, btwn Eloy Alfaro & Ambato) South of town on the road to Puerto Napo.
Police Station (%06-288-6101; main plaza)
Post Office (cnr Olmedo & Moreno) Northwest of the old footbridge.
Tourism Office (iTur; %06-288-8046; Rueda; h7:30am-5pm Mon-Fri) The friendly staff here will do their best to help you with whatever you need. Some staff members speak English.
8Getting There & Away
The bus terminal (Terminal Terrestre; 15 de Noviembre) is at the southern end of town. Café Tortuga keeps a very useful complete list of current bus times. Services to all destinations are frequent.
| DESTINATION | COST ($) | DURATION (HR) |
|---|---|---|
| Ambato | 6.25 | 4 |
| Baños | 5.25 | 3 |
| Coca | 8.75 | 4 |
| Puyo | 3.15 | 2½ |
| Quito via Baeza | 7.50 | 5 |
8Getting Around
Local buses to Archidona ($0.25, 15 minutes) leave every 30 minutes during the day from the west side of the market, near the old airstrip. Other local buses leave from 15 de Noviembre, near the terminal, to Ahuano ($1.50, one hour), Misahuallí ($0.75, 45 minutes) and Santa Rosa/San Pedro ($3.75, three hours).
There’s a large gas station along Av 15 de Noviembre on the way from the center to the bus terminal.
Misahuallí
%06 / Pop 5127
Once an important transit point for travelers arriving by river from Coca, Misahuallí (mee-sah-wah-yee) sank into obscurity when the Loreto road connecting Coca to Tena was built. Positioned between two major rivers – at the literal end of the road – the town has a lovely sandy beach, a famous cadre of monkeys adept at swiping sunglasses from visitors, and little else.
However, the region’s Aeropuerto Jumandy actually means that for those flying from Quito, you’ll likely hit Misahuallí before you reach Tena. And many prefer this diminutive but spirited village over Tena as a base for exploring the Río Napo and its jungle. Traveller facilities are good, with several key tour operators stationed here.
Be aware that the surrounding area has been colonized for decades, which means wildlife has diminished greatly.
1Sights
Sinchi WarmiCULTURAL CENTRE
(MAP; %06-306-3009; www.sinchiwarmiamazonlodge.com; meals $3-10, cabañas from $13)
Founded, built and run by a group of Kichwa women, this community center introduces visitors to their culture through activities such as jungle walks, traditional dance performances and chocolate-making demonstrations. Enjoy Kichwa cuisine and consider staying here; your money all goes toward supporting these women with sustainable work that allows them to continue a traditional lifestyle.
Comunidad ShiripunoCOMMUNITY
(MAP; %06-289-0203; r with/without bathroom per person $15/10)
A couple of kilometers downriver from town is this Shiripuno community, most often visited on tours with Teorumi tour agency. The community tourism project is run mostly by the women of the village, who can perform traditional dance and guayusa tea preparation, with advance notice. A canoe ride here from town is $5.
On site is a huge rock believed to be a crashed meteorite, central to Kichwa mythology. It’s possible to stay here, although this is best arranged through Teorumi.
TTours
It’s possible to get good tour deals in Misahuallí – you’ll find an accommodating guide (and price) far more quickly if you already have four or more people together when you arrive – however, stick to licensed guides and recommended outfits.
oTeorumiECOTOUR
(MAP; %06-289-0213; www.teorumi.com; tours per person per day from $65; h7am-7:30pm) S
Working with local indigenous communities, Teorumi is a great choice for anyone interested in native culture as well as wildlife. Tours can be tailored to fit your interests, though most feature bird-watching, fishing, medicinal plant demonstrations and jungle hikes. Other activities include panning for gold and horseback riding. English and French are spoken. The office is on the main square.
Their nearby Shiripuno Lodge is often a base for activities.
Teorumi’s owner is one of Ecuador’s foremost authorities on snakes and their venom, and has helped create several antidotes.
Ecoselva Pepe TapiaECOTOUR
(MAP; %099-789-8900, 06-289-0019; http://ecoselvapepetapia.com; tours per day from $45)
Pepe Tapia González takes visitors on enjoyable one- to 10-day tours, including nature walks and canoe trips, with overnight stays at his rustic lodge or jungle camps. He speaks fluent English, has a biology background and is knowledgeable about plants, birds and insects. Ecoselva is located on the main square.
Selva VerdeECOTOUR
(MAP; %098-904-101, 998-215-710, 06-289-0165; www.selvaverde-misahualli.com; tours per person per day $60-95)
Luís Zapata, an English-speaking guide with years of experience in the region, runs this recommended tour agency that has an office on the main square. He specializes in river trips and visits to indigenous villages.
4Sleeping & Eating
Misahuallí is a good place to try maitos (fish grilled in palm leaves) on the main plaza.
Hostal ShawHOTEL$
(MAP; %06-289-0163; hostalshaw@hotmail.com; s/d $8/16)
This friendly hostal on the plaza has simple rooms with fans, mosquito nets and private bathrooms with hot water. You’ll find espresso and a good book exchange at the downstairs cafe, which is Misahuallí’s premier hangout spot, as well as morning pancakes and vegetarian dishes.
Hotel El PaisanoGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP; %06-289-0027; www.hostalelpaisano.com; cnr Rivadeneyra & Tandalia; s/d incl breakfast $25/35; piW)
This popular traveler haunt is one of the more charming places in town, with bright rooms, wooden floors, mosquito nets, laundry service, good coffee served with a very good breakfast, and a book exchange. The lovely owner speaks Spanish, French and English.
Río Napo LodgeLODGE$$
(MAP; %06-289-0071; www.rionapolodge.com; s/d incl breakfast $30/60; W)
Run by a local indigenous family that also grows cacao, this peaceful lodge on the south side of the Río Napo makes for a quiet retreat outside of town. Rooms are in wooden duplex cabins, with hammock-slung terraces and a lovely garden setting.
France-AmazoniaGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP; %06-289-0009; www.france-amazonia.com; Av Principal; r per person incl breakfast $18-24; pWs)
Just outside of town on the lip of the river, shady thatched huts surround a sparkling pool and sandy fire pit. Beds are small but rooms are sizeable and pleasantly rustic. The garden offers plenty of nooks for enjoying the pleasant climate and the sound of the river – which can be accessed via a small trail.
Misahuallí Amazon LodgeHOTEL$$$
(MAP; %06-289-0063, in Quito 02-224-9651; www.misahualliamazonlodge.com; s/d incl breakfast from $80/120; Ws)
A fussy, manicured version of a jungle camp, this hotel has a resort feel and is popular with Ecuadorian families. It has a great position overlooking the river and Misahuallí (from which you have to take the complimentary canoe to get here). Newer hotel-style rooms are sophisticated, while the stilted cabins are rather aged.
El BijaoECUADORIAN$
(MAP; mains $5; hlunch & dinner)
On the plaza, this is a great place to try the maito – an Ecuadorian jungle specialty where tilapia (river fish) or chicken are wrapped in a jungle leaf and grilled, then served with rice, yuca and guayusa (Amazonian herbal tea). Stop by around lunch for the freshest ones.
El JardínECUADORIAN$$
(MAP; %06-289-0219; www.eljardinmisahualli.com; mains $10-15; hnoon-4pm & 6-10pm Mon-Sat; pW)
Over the bridge up on the road to La Punta, El Jardín is a beautiful addition to the local dining scene. In a flower-festooned garden, you can dine on the huge platters of pricey but well-prepared meat, tilapia (river fish) and seafood.
8Information
There is no bank or post office in Misahuallí. Carry your passport on buses, boats and tours in the region, and have a stash of small bills for boat travel.
8Getting There & Away
Buses leave from the plaza approximately every hour during daytime; the last bus is at 6pm. The main destination is Tena ($1, one hour). There’s a daily 8.30am bus to Quito ($6, five hours) that leaves from the main square.
You can also catch a Compañía Trans Dumbiki (%06-289-0051) camioneta on the plaza for nearby destinations as well as to Tena and beyond.
The need for passenger canoes has dried up thanks to the Tena–Coca (Loreto) road and others along the Río Napo. You can arrange trips with boat drivers on the beach for about $30 per hour, but nearby agencies offer better deals.
Upper Río Napo
%06
The Río Napo gains momentum south of Tena and just before Misahuallí. It widens and quickens as it passes nature reserves, small jungle communities, oil rigs and lodges. Unfortunately, road construction has altered wildlife habits for good, and visitors will see fewer animals and birds here now than deeper in the jungle.
West of Misahuallí
When you leave Tena behind and hit the river bridge at Puerto Napo, the mass of churning water below you is the beginning of the Río Napo proper. These early stages of the mighty waterway flow east past surprisingly luxurious lodges, while good roads run along both banks as far as Misahuallí.
The northern shore road, trawled about hourly with buses, passes Cascada Las Latas MAP , an impressive waterfall more or less half-way between Puerto Napo and Misahuallí (and 15 minutes’ drive from either).
4Sleeping
oHamadryade LodgeBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP; %098-590-9992, 098-822-5413; www.hamadryade-lodge.com; d incl breakfast & dinner from $198; pWs) S
Perched on a hillside a few kilometers upriver of Misahuallí and accessed by the road along the northern shore, this stylish, ecofriendly French-owned jungle lodge departs from the standard look with sleek, contemporary decor. Each private bungalow has a balcony with jungle views; there’s a fantastic pool and lounging area perched over the rolling landscape; traditional massage is also available.
With just five bungalows, this a great place for travelers to chill out in style. The deluxe bungalow, which sleeps up to six people, is perfect for families. Multiday packages include excursions to Reserva Biológica Jatun Sacha, local indigenous communities and AmaZOOnico.
Cotococha LodgeLODGE$$$
(MAP; %in Quito 02-244-1721, 02-512-3358; www.cotococha.com; d 3 nights incl full board from $550) S
This is the first lodge you see on the nascent Río Napo, 17km from Tena along the southern shore. It’s a quiet collection of 22 thatched-roofed bungalows, connected by winding river-rock pathways in a lush setting. Oil lanterns create a romantic glow, and cabins have hot water and private river-facing decks (though no electricity).
English-speaking guides lead walks and trips to waterfalls; tubing, rafting and visits to local communities can be arranged. It’s a good way to get into the rainforest without having to take a long river trip.
8Getting There & Away
Lodges here can arrange private transport, for an additional fee. Tena buses heading to Misahuallí ($0.75, 45 minutes) depart almost hourly throughout the day.
Reserva Biológica Jatun Sacha
The 25-sq-km Reserva Biológica Jatun Sacha MAP ($6) biological station and rainforest reserve is located on the south shore of the Río Napo, 23km east of Puerto Napo. It is run by Fundación Jatun Sacha (%02-331-8156, 02-243-2240, 099-490-8265; www.jatunsacha.org; Psje Eugenio de Santillan 34-248, Quito; $6), an Ecuadorian nonprofit organization that was formed to promote rainforest research, conservation and education.
Many new species have been discovered here since the 1990s, including the butterfly Passiflora jatunsachensis, and biodiversity is very high for the area, with an estimated 1500 types of plants in a single hectare.
With neighboring areas being rapidly cleared for logging and agriculture, the biodiversity of Jatun Sacha is precious. Besides counting and tracking local species, the foundation develops reforestation initiatives and agro-forestry alternatives with local farming communities and indigenous groups.
Biostation workers and other guests stay in rustic cabins (per person incl full board $30) with shared bathrooms just up from the entrance on the Misahuallí–La Punta road. Water is solar-heated and meals are included. The restaurant by the office at the reserve entrance serves healthy Ecuadorian and international meals.
Go bird-watching or meander through the surrounding forest trails, then check out the plant conservation center and botanical garden. You can also borrow a climbing harness and scale the vertigo-inducing 30m observation tower in the middle of the reserve. There are discounts for groups and students.
8Getting There & Away
To get to Jatun Sacha from Tena, take an Ahuano or Santa Rosa bus and ask the driver to drop you at the main entrance/research station. A taxi to the entrance from Misahuallí is $5, but for buses, you’ll need to first make it 2km up to the junction of the main Tena–Ahuano road (the road along the southern shore of the Río Napo).
La Punta, Ahuano & Around
Splintering off the Tena–Santa Rosa road is the turning to La Punta and Ahuano, along which you’ll also find the new Aeropuerto Jumandy, which serves the Misahuallí and Tena area. The river port of La Punta is the usual colorful microcosm of Oriente life and has a couple of basic riverfront restaurants.
From here the main destination is Ahuano, a sleepy village across the river. While it’s still in secondary, deforested jungle, being accessible only by river makes Ahuano feel like the start of a remote rainforest adventure, and it is indeed a relatively easy way to get assimilated into jungle culture.
CHICHA, THE BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS
Before you could get a Coke and a smile in the Amazon Basin, there was chicha – not the boiled highland version, but a highly portable nutritional drink. Stored as a paste wrapped in leaves, chicha materializes when you add water.
The recipe is simple – chicha is yuca (cassava) or chonta palm masticated by women (and only women). For millennia, chicha has been a prime source of nutrition and vitamins for remote communities. It’s an important staple in the jungle, where people eat very little and drink up to 6L a day. When fresh, chicha tastes mild and yogurt-like, but as time passes, it becomes more alcoholic as bacteria from the saliva turn carbohydrates into simple sugars. The older the chicha, the more potent it is. The flavor depends on the individual who made it; each woman’s unique bacteria creates a distinctive taste.
Really terrible chicha is considered a portent of something bad – but will something bad happen to you, the visitor, if you try it? Contrary to what you might think, problems result not from the saliva (which starts the fermentation process but only constitutes a tiny percentage of the finished product) but from unfiltered river water that may have been mixed with the paste. However, very few people experience trouble after tasting just a sip. A highlight of many visits to local communities in Oriente is being able to see chicha being made and tasting it afterwards, too. Enjoy!
1Sights
AmaZOOnicoWILDLIFE RESERVE
(MAP; www.amazoonico.org; adult/child $4/2.50)
You’re guaranteed to see all manner of jungle wildlife at AmaZOOnico, a well-known animal rehabilitation center located on the grounds of Selva Viva, a 17-sq-km reserve of primary forest on Río Arajuno, a narrow tributary of the Napo about 3km east of Ahuano. A Swiss-Kichwa couple founded the center in 1993 to care for confiscated or displaced rainforest animals.
While it’s great to be able to see toucans, capybaras, monkeys and boas close up, the circumstances betray an ugly reality. These animals have been displaced because illegal traffickers sold them for quick cash or their habitats were destroyed. Some of the stories you’ll hear from the excellent tours are heartbreaking – animals abandoned in hotel rooms, rare birds whose owners died, and severely traumatized ‘pets’ intercepted during trafficking attempts. Some healthy animals are released back into the rainforest, but an unfortunate number of animals arrive too domesticated to be re-released.
Spanish- and English-speaking volunteers, who know the animals intimately, lead all tours. The center is always looking for volunteers (who must pay $250 per month for living expenses), especially veterinarians, for a two-month-minimum stay.
Get in touch via the website to give advance warning if you want to visit; phone reception is unreliable, and there is no phone number to call.
4Sleeping
oAnaconda LodgeJUNGLE LODGE$$$
(MAP; %06-301-7723; www.anacondalodgeecuador.com; Isla Anaconda; per person incl full board from $110; W) S
Run by the warmly welcoming Chilean-Colombian couple Francisco and Silvia, Anaconda Lodge is their jungle lodge dream come true. Screened wooden cabins on stilts are set within neat garden environs, with an open-air restaurant serving as social hub. Visiting their neighboring Kichwa community, wildlife-watching in the jungle, rafting and tubing are all on the agenda on this tranquil Napo island.
Healthy, delicious meals – which can accommodate dietary restrictions – night walks and excursions round out the experience. Dog lovers are especially welcome, as three giant German shepherds are a roving part of the family here.
Yachana LodgeLODGE$$$
(MAP; %02-252-3777 in Quito; www.yachana.com; s/d 3 nights incl full board from $567/810)
Situated on a 2500-acre nature reserve, Yachana Lodge is the newer iteration of a long-running lodge along the Río Napo. A training center educates local residents for sustainable career opportunities; revenues from the lodge help support the training center. It’s a win-win, as guests are exposed to the wonders of jungle and river, as well as introduced to indigenous culture.
Sacha Sisa LodgeJUNGLE LODGE$$$
(MAP; %098-461-4199, 06-306-2907; www.sachasisaamazon.com; d/t incl breakfast $100/150; W)
Sacha Sisa Lodge, run by Tena guide Juan Garces, sits on a river cliff – aside from the great views, it is also mercifully fresh and mosquito-free. Guests generally stay overnight as part of Juan’s highly recommended tours involving kayak trips and intrepid jungle hikes.
Arajuno Jungle LodgeJUNGLE LODGE$$$
(MAP; %098-268-2287; www.arajuno.com; 2 nights incl full board per person $399)
If small and out of the way is your thing, check out former Peace Corps volunteer Thomas Larson’s Arajuno Jungle Lodge, slung on a bend of the Río Arajuno. A handful of hillside cabins are snug and screened and have solar-powered hot water. The thatched main lodge has a sprawling wooden deck and dining area perched over the river.
Guests can roam the 80 hectares of forest, hike, canoe and visit nearby AmaZOOnico.
The lodge works with local communities to develop new food sources and spread information about health and nutrition. Volunteers are accepted for stays of three to six months. The chef cooks up locally inspired gourmet food, such as smoked cachama maitos (fish grilled in palm leaves) and tortilla de yuca (cassava bread). Grown-up kids will love the rope swing that launches into the river. Services are in Spanish and English.
Liana LodgeJUNGLE LODGE$$$
(MAP; %06-301-7702; www.selvaviva.ec; per person incl full board 2/3/4 nights $194/291/388, single supplement per night $16)
Each of Liana Lodge’s nine cabins has two double rooms, a hot shower and no electricity. The carefree riverside atmosphere revolves around bonfires, walks through the woods and a round bar overlooking the river. Packages include meals, tours (including lessons on making chicha and building a balsa raft) and canoe transport from Puerto Barantilla. Reserve in advance online.
Ask about Runi Huasi, an indigenous-run lodge nearby that’s managed by the Liana owners. Kichwa, English, Spanish, German and French are spoken here.
To get here, take a Tena bus to Santa Rosa ($2, one hour) and get off at Puerto Barantilla. Walk down the dirt road to the river, where a canoe will be waiting to pick you up.
La Casa del SuizoHOTEL$$$
(MAP; %02-250-9504 in Quito, 800-706-2215 in the US; www.lacasadelsuizo.com; s/d incl full board $181/290; aWs)
Most visitors come to stay at the Swiss-owned La Casa del Suizo, a walled fortress on the Río Napo that offers a pampered glimpse of the jungle. A maze of covered boardwalks links thatched hotel-style rooms that have high ceilings, pale adobe walls, electricity, fans, hot showers, and hammock-hung balconies, most of which boast river views.
Transport to the lodge from La Punta or Ahuano is not included.
8Getting There & Away
Bus services from Tena run eight times a day to La Punta or Ahuano ($1.50; one hour), about 28km east of Puerto Napo; you can sometimes catch a colectivo back to Tena for the same price as the bus. From La Punta, you can catch a boat to your Río Napo destination – if your stop happens to be Ahuano, the bus will motor onto a barge for the five-minute chug across the river before continuing on to Ahuano and villages beyond.
Puyo
%03 / Pop 36,560
Puyo is an enigma: whereas most towns make efforts to spruce up their centers and leave the outskirts stagnating, this place does the direct opposite. While it retains some vitality as the capital of the Pastaza province, overall this is just a built-up town with little to attract you. Regardless, anyone traveling in southern Oriente is quite likely to pass through. Dense green jungle flourishes close around the town’s edges, and – thanks in part to travelers from Baňos making the hour-long drive down to do a rainforest reconnoiter – accommodations are good and plentiful, with some of the best jungle tour operators located here.
1Sights
Parque Etnobotánico OmaerePARK
(www.fundacionomaere.org; adult/child $3/1.50; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) S
Less than 1km north of the city center, this ethnobotanical park offers one- to two-hour guided tours (included in admission fee) of rainforest plants and indigenous dwellings, by mostly indigenous guides. The park is run by Shuar plant expert Teresa Shiki and her biologist husband, Chris Canaday, a font of knowledge about everything from jungle plants to ecological dry toilets.
Teresa helped found and plant the park and prepares natural medicine.
Get here by following Loja north of town for about 300m until you reach a gas station on the left. Turn right and follow the road right to arrive at the park entrance, across a footbridge over the river and past the El Jardín hotel. To return, a beautiful trail (called the paseo turístico) continues past Omaere for 1.7km along the river to the Puyo–Tena road, where you can flag down a bus back to town every 20 minutes, or return along the trail.
Volcán El AltarVOLCANO
Early risers may see the jagged white teeth of Volcán El Altar (5319m), the fifth-highest mountain in Ecuador, about 50km southwest. On clear days look southwest to see Volcán Sangay (5230m).
Paseo de los MonosPARK
(%03-303-0801, 099-474-0070; www.losmonos.org; adult/child $3/1.50; h8am-5pm)
At Paseo de los Monos you can see a variety of rescued animals, including six kinds of monkeys, turtles and birds. Some animals are caged, while others run free. For an extra fee, guides lead four-hour walks into the surrounding jungle to see more of the center’s animals. Volunteer opportunities are available, with a minimum commitment of one week (per week $130).
Jardín Botánico las OrquídeasGARDENS
(%03-253-0305; www.jardinbotanicolasorquideas.com; $5; h8am-6pm) S
Visitors rave about this privately run botanical garden, located 15 minutes south from Puyo on the road to Macas. Enthusiastic owner Omar Taeyu guides visitors through hills of lush foliage and fish ponds to see gorgeous plants and countless rare orchids. Call ahead to let them know you’re coming.
Museo EtnoarqueológicoMUSEUM
(MAP; %03-288-5605; cnr Atahualpa & 9 de Octubre; $1; h8am-5pm Tue-Sun)
Puyo’s tiny Museo Etnoarqueológico has ceramics, artifacts, models of various traditional indigenous homes and an excellent map showing the distribution of native populations.
TTours
Papangu ToursTOURS
(MAP; %099-550-4983, 03-288-7684; info@papangutours.com.ec; Orellana, near Manzano; 3-day tour per person from $45; hMon-Fri) S
Papangu Tours is an indigenous-run agency with a focus on community tourism. Trips go to Sarayaku (a Kichwa community) and Cueva de los Tayos (Shuar). Guides are indigenous and speak Spanish and Kichwa, and some of the fees go to participating communities. Highly recommended by readers.
Shiran NantuADVENTURE
(MAP; %03-288-5667; www.shirannantu.com; Orellana, near Villamil; per person per day from $50; h8:30am-7:30pm Mon-Sat)
Adventurous jungle trips with flexible itineraries. Tours involving longer boat trips are more fun, but entail a higher fee to cover petrol costs. An eight-day odyssey takes you right down the Río Curaray to the Peruvian border.
zFestivals & Events
Fiestas de Fundación de PuyoCULTURAL
This week-long celebration of Puyo’s founding takes place in early May.
4Sleeping
Hostal Las PalmasGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP; %03-288-4832; cnr 20 de Julio & 4 de Enero; s/d incl breakfast $22/33; iW)
This big yellow colonial place is aimed at an upmarket backpacking crowd. It features attractive gardens, chattering parrots, hammocks and a 3rd-floor patio for sundowners. Rooms here are neat and bright. A cute cafe serves wine, coffee and snacks. For stays of two nights or longer, doubles are knocked down to $25 per night.
Hostal LibertadHOTEL$
(MAP; %03-283-2821; cnr Orellana & Manzano; r per person incl breakfast $10; pW)
Rooms are cramped but the place is spotless, friendly and family-run; plus there’s wi-fi, hot water and TV. Parking is an extra $3, and at this price, it’s a great deal.
oPosada RealGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP; %03-288-5887; www.posadarealpuyo.com; cnr 4 de Enero & 27 de Febrero; s/d incl breakfast from $34/56; pW)
If you don’t have a well-to-do Ecuadorian grandmother to visit in Puyo, staying in this immaculately kept locale is the next best thing. Only two blocks down from the main square, Posada Real enjoys a set-back location in quiet grounds. Spacious rooms have cozy reading lamps and antique furniture; most have balconies. Breakfast in the dignified cafeteria is a pleasure.
El JardínHOTEL$$
(%03-289-2253; www.eljardinpuyo.com; Paseo Turístico, Barrio Obrero; s/d incl breakfast from $46/77; piW)
This gorgeous spot is just across the footbridge by the entrance to the Parque Omaere, 1km from the center of town. It feels more like a jungle lodge than a city hotel, with 10 rooms housed in a wooden building on two floors and decorated with local arts and crafts.
The eponymous garden is as magnificent as you’d expect, and there’s a superb restaurant. Luxuries, such as massage and a hot tub, are also available.
Hostería TuringiaGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP; %03-288-6344; www.hosteriaturingia.com; Marín 294; s/d incl breakfast $35/55; pWs)
This walled, Tyrolean outpost looks something like the set from Heidi, making for weird but OK bedding-down in central Puyo. The somewhat overpriced rooms are dark, but the cabins scattered around the manicured grounds are undeniably cute. There’s also a full-service restaurant.
Huella Verde Rainforest LodgeJUNGLE LODGE$$$
(%03-278-7035; http://huella-verde.org; s/d from $70/100; W)
On an isolated meander of the Río Bobonaza around 45km south of Puyo, Huella Verde puts even the bigger Yasuní lodges to shame by offering fascinating excursions in equally intact jungle for a fraction of the price: ethnobotanic jungle hikes, chocolate-making and canoe adventures with Kichwa guides (extra charges apply).
There is also a restaurant (mains $6-15). Two bungalows, each with private bathrooms and hammock-slung terraces, have capacity for just six – making reservations obligatory.
Head to the village of Canelos, off the Puyo–Macas road (a $25 taxi ride from Puyo), from where there’s a complimentary canoe.
5Eating
EscoBarECUADORIAN$
(MAP; cnr Atahualpa & Marín; mains $4-8; h9am-late)
With panache to punch its weight in Quito’s coolest neighborhoods, EscoBar makes palapas (rustic, palm-thatched dwellings) seem chic. Sample Ecuadorian microbrews, cocktails and a menu of patacones (fried bananas), yuca (cassava) or salads served with meat within the 2nd-floor open-sided bar-restaurant. Service is as slow as a motorless canoe heading upriver, but it’s still the place to hang.
El FariseoINTERNATIONAL$
(MAP; Atahualpa, btwn Villamil & 27 de Febrero; light mains $2-6; h7:30am-9pm Mon-Sat; W)
It may not look like much, but this cafe boasts one of the Oriente’s few espresso machines – and knows how to use it. They serve up surprisingly delicious fare, including a very tasty churrasco (steak served with a fried egg). Burritos, burgers and steaks round out the menu. As do the inviting cakes.
oEl JardínECUADORIAN$$
(%03-288-7770; Paseo Turístico, Barrio Obrero; mains $8-16; hnoon-4pm & 6-10pm Mon-Sat; W)
The best food in the Oriente may be at this ambient house by the river inside the charming hotel of the same name, 1km north of town. The award-winning chef-owner Sofia prepares fragrant pollo ishpingo (cinnamon chicken – ishpingo is a type of cinnamon native to the Oriente); its decadent, delicate flavors awake the palate.
Try the lomo plancho (grilled steak) for a tender, perfectly cooked slab among artfully arranged vegetables. Top-notch vegetarian and fresh fish dishes are other plusses.
7Shopping
WaoraniARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP; Asociacion De Mujeres Waorani De La Amazonia Ecuatoriana; Atahualpa, btwn Villamil & 27 de Febrero; h9am-12:30pm & 2-6:30pm Mon-Fri)
Sells artisanal crafts made by Waorani women, including jewelry, spears, hammocks, blowguns and palm string bags. Artisans receive a portion of every sale.
8Information
Banco de Guayaquil (Marín, near Av 20 de Julio)
Banco del Austro (Atahualpa, near 27 de Febrero)
Hospital General Puyo (www.hgp.gob.ec; cnr 9 de Octubre & Feicán)
IESS Hospital (%03-288-5378; cnr Marín & Curaray)
iTur (%03-288-5122 ext 227, 03-288-5937; cnr Orellana & 27 de Febrero; h8:30am-12:30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri) At the town hall. Either the booth downstairs or the office upstairs will be open. There’s another smaller office at the bus terminal.
Post Office (27 de Febrero)
8Getting There & Away
The bus terminal is 1km southwest of town. There are several services daily to each destination.
BUSES FROM PUYO
| DESTINATION | COST ($) | DURATION (HR) |
|---|---|---|
| Ambato | 3.65 | 3 |
| Baños | 2.50 | 1½ |
| Coca | 10.50 | 5-6 |
| Guayaquil | 12 | 8 |
| Macas | 5.60 | 2½ |
| Quito | 7 | 5½ |
| Tena | 3.25 | 2½ |
8Getting Around
A taxi ride from downtown to the bus terminal costs $1, as should all rides within the city. Small local buses go to Shell ($0.25) every 30 minutes or so from south of the market along Calle 27 de Febrero.
The Southern Oriente
The southern Oriente may be the envy of its northern sister: here the jungle is wilder, and more pristine. Rivers snake through vast tracts of rainforest dotted with tiny indigenous settlements and no roads. Inaccessibility remains, for the most part, because of a lack of industry, although mining and oil exploration may change all that in the future. Most visitors come to visit indigenous tribes such as the Shuar, an adventurous pursuit that involves few creature comforts – the tourism industry has yet to bloom.
Macas
%07 / Pop 19,000
Bienvenidos to a jungle town with few tourist trappings: clamoring markets, huecos (basic hole-in-the-wall eateries) and glass-and-concrete houses are the first impressions of Macas. It gets better. A couple of good hotels and restaurants make this the best base for tours into the least-explored corners of the Ecuadorian rainforest – including opportunities to visit the Shuar and Achuar indigenous groups. The longest continuous stretch of white water in the country also lures kayakers. Untrammeled as the nearby nature might be, Macas itself is the brashly modern provincial capital of Morona-Santiago. Tribesmen wear traditional beads over Nike T-shirts, and trucks overloaded with jungle produce honk on traffic-clogged streets that keep thoughts of rivers at bay. It’s raucous, and raw – but it’s real.
1Sights
Our Lady of Macas CathedralCHURCH
(MAP)
The cathedral announces itself with a Technicolor virgin, looming over a plaza resembling an elaborate skate park. Inside, a tranquil, column-free space with stained glass telling episodes from the town’s past ushers you up to the tiled altar depicting Macas in front of a bellowing volcano. Miracles are attributed to the painting of the Virgin of Macas (c 1592) on the altar.
Parque RecreacionalPARK
(Don Bosco & Pasaje la Randimpa; hdawn-dusk)
We all feel the urge for a peaceful, green picnicking spot sometimes – particularly in Macas, where there’s a dearth of them. Parque Recreacional delivers – with Río Upano views.
Volcán SangayVOLCANO
The perfect snow-covered cone of Volcán Sangay (5230m), some 40km to the northwest, can be glimpsed on a clear day. It’s Ecuador’s seventh-highest mountain and one of the world’s most active volcanoes; early missionaries construed it as hell.
TTours
Macas is the place to book trips into the southern Oriente. Services are not as comprehensive as those up north; then again, more unspoilt rainforest and lack of other tourists adds authenticity to adventures. Know that the Shuar do not want unguided visitors in their villages; certain villages refuse visitors entirely. It’s therefore essential to travel with a professional guide who can arrange access and is sensitive to the Shuar’s stance on tourism. Tena operators have more possibilities for rafting on rivers around Macas.
Tsuirim ViajesTOURS
(MAP; %07-270-1681, 099-737-2538; leosalgado18@gmail.com; cnr Don Bosco & Sucre; tours per person per day from $60)
Offering a range of jungle tours, including Shuar community visits, shamanic rituals, canyoning, caving, rafting, tubing and jungle-trekking. Owner Leo Salgado grew up in a Shuar community and knows the area well. His unique offerings include Shuar weddings or vow renewals and multiday caving expeditions with licensed, experienced guides.
Real Nature TravelBIRD-WATCHING
(%07-270-2525, 07-252-5041; www.realnaturetravel.com; Av la Ciudad; day trip per person $120, 9-day 2-person tour $2000-3600)
Birders and nature lovers should look no further: these bird-watching tours cover the Macas area, including Parque Nacional Sangay (good if you’ve just got a day) but usually run much further afield into the cloud forest and Andean páramo (high mountains). The longer you go for, the richer the sightings. Fluent English is spoken.
zFestivals & Events
Chonta FestivalCULTURAL
During the last week of May, the Chonta Festival is the most important Shuar celebration of the year. Shuar guides can help you garner an invitation to this grand event, where participants dance for four consecutive hours to help ferment the chicha (a fermented corn or yuca drink).
4Sleeping
Hostal Casa BlancaHOTEL$
(MAP; %07-270-0195; Soasti, btwn Sucre & Bolívar; r incl breakfast $15-35; aWs)
The older, most pleasant rooms surround the small pool in the garden out back, even though they face the common social area. Cheaper rooms don’t have air-con. Casa Blanca remains best option in the city center.
Hotel Sol de OrienteHOTEL$
(MAP; %07-270-2911; Tarqui, btwn Amazonas & Soasti; s/d $15/30)
This six-floor place will pass in a pinch. Some rooms are pokey; all have acceptable private bathrooms. English is spoken.
oCasa Upano B&BGUESTHOUSE$$
(%07-270-2674; www.casaupano.com; Av la Ciudad s/n; s/d incl breakfast $50/80; piW)
Perhaps this is an inkling of what Macas’ future could hold: a serene retreat for travelers tucked away from the city mayhem. Four balconied rooms look out on a huge fruit-tree-dotted garden which falls away towards the Río Upano. The English-speaking owners rustle up a scrumptious breakfast with super-local ingredients (ie from their garden or a nearby house).
It’s mostly birders stopping by, as the owners also run great birding tours. It’s 1km from the junction of Juan de la Cruz and Av la Ciudad.
5Eating & Drinking
La MaravillaECUADORIAN$
(MAP; Soasti, near Sucre; mains $3-6; h4pm-midnight Mon-Sat)
Easily the most charming place in town, this blue casita is all ambience, from the twinkling porch lights to the stuffed red-leather armchairs. Come to chill with tablas (cutting-boards) of meat and cheese and yuca (cassava) fries. There’s live Andean music here at weekends, making it the town’s best entertainment option, too.
The drink menu gets creative, with herbal aphrodisiacs and hueso de chuchuguazo (a root mixed with rum).
JungLabFUSION$$
(MAP; %07-270-2448; cnr Bolivar & Amazonas; mains $5-15; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat)
Has fusion food reached Macas? It would seem so with this serendipitous, intimate spot near the bus terminal. Meat dishes are what you would expect in the Ecuadorian jungle – but done creatively. Ask about the famous cerveza de cacao (cocoa beer).
Tisho’s PizzeriaPIZZA$$
(MAP; %098-622-9400, 07-270-4663; cnr Tarqui & 29 de Mayo; small/large pizza $9/16; hnoon-11pm Tue-Thu, 2pm-midnight Fri-Sat, 11am-11pm Sun)
The owner of Tisho’s spent some years in the States, and here are the results: big thick-crust pizzas and even Philly cheese-steak sandwiches. Pizzas are so big they’re pushed over on trolleys.
Bar-Restaurante El MiradorBAR
(%07-270-0491, 098-515-6283; Pasaje la Randimpa & Parque Recreativo; mains $4.50-12; h4-10:30pm Mon-Sat)
Five blocks north of the main square, this is where Macas folks come to chill with a couple of cold ones (including Ecuadorian microbrews, if you’re into that sort of thing … which we are) on the terrace here alongside Parque Recreacional, overlooking the mirador (viewpoint) over the Río Upano. Edible offerings include steak, pasta and salads.
7Shopping
Fundación ChankuapARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP; %07-270-1176; www.chankuap.org; Bolívar, btwn Soasti & 24 de Mayo; h8:30am-1pm & 2-8:30pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-2:30pm Sat & Sun) S
This foundation aids the Shuar and Achuar by selling crafts, herbal remedies and beauty products. Our personal favorite? The soap made from local cinnamon – but there’s also the cinnamon itself, chocolate made from locally grown cacao and coffee beans.
8Information
iTur (cnr Comín & 24 de Mayo; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Tiny; tries to help.
Ministerio del Ambiente (cnr Juan de la Cruz & 29 de Mayo; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Has basic information about Parque Nacional Sangay.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Although TAME (%07-270-4940; Edmundo Carvajal Airport) had suspended service to Macas at the time of writing, daily flights may once again connect the small Edmundo Carvajal Airport (Amazonas btwn Sucre & Cuenca) with Quito.
On the flight to Quito, the left side of the plane offers the best mountain views, including those of Sangay/Cotopaxi on clear days.
BUS
The bus station is on Amazonas, right in the center of town.
BUSES FROM MACAS
| DESTINATION | COST ($) | DURATION (HR) |
|---|---|---|
| Cuenca | 11 | 7 |
| Gualaquiza | 10 | 6 |
| Guayaquil | 12.50 | 8 |
| Puyo | 5 | 2.5 |
| Quito | 12 | 8 |
| Riobamba | 6.50 | 4 |
| Sucúa | 1 | ¾ |
Sucúa
%07 / Pop 12,620
The wide, neat streets of spread-out Sucúa mark the transition from Macas bustle to serene jungle. As – truth be told – this is a nicer town than Macas, it’s worth a half-day trip out here. Old men slowly pedal bicycles as a vendor grills meats under the town’s only stoplight, across from a plaza of ficus trees and chirping cicadas. The Sucúa area is home to many people of the Shuar tribe, who can be seen around town. Market day is Sunday.
1Sights
Parque BotánicoPARK
(%07-274-0211; off Av Oriental; h8am-5pm Tue-Sat) F
Parque Botánico, 3km southeast of central Sucúa, has a visitor interpretation center, a restaurant, a well-kept orquideario (orchid farm) and paths through subtropical forest. Taxis from the center of Sucúa charge $1.50.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hostal RomanzaHOSTAL$
(%07-274-1141; Olson & Carvajal; s/d incl breakfast $15/30; W)
Just off the park, Hostal Romanza is a clean, safe and perfectly fine place to lay your head in Sucúa.
Tisho’s PizzeriaPIZZA$
(%07-274-1131; cnr Pástor Bernal & Sangurima; mains $3-7; h11am-11pm)
A block off the main plaza, Tisho’s Pizzeria offers American dishes inspired by the owner’s years in the States, including Philly cheese-steak sandwiches and a ‘Texas’ pizza.
8Getting There & Away
Frequent buses or pickups leave for Macas ($1, 45 minutes) from dawn until dusk at the corner of the main plaza. Others head south to Gualaquiza ($9, five hours).
Gualaquiza
%07 / Pop 9230 / Elev 950m
Spread against a gently sloping hillside surrounded by dense jungle, colonial Gualaquiza is the southern Oriente’s most appealing settlement. A church with a fan of turquoise-painted steps crowns the town.
1Sights & Activities
Gualaquiza is just awaking from a long hibernation where tourism is concerned. The main activity is gawping at (or bathing in) the waterfalls around town. They get more impressive as you head out. First up is Cascada Las Culebrillas, the entrance to which is a 1.5km jaunt (or $2 taxi) along the Macas road. A further 12km along is Caverna y Cascadas la Dolorosa (good for bathing) and then there’s the spectacular falls at Reserva Ecológica al Bosque Paraíso, 20km from Gualaquiza. Macas-bound buses can drop you at the entrance to these.
Ask locally for information on the excellent caving 15km west of town near the village of Nueva Tarquí (flashlights and spare batteries are essential).
CiclosCYCLING
(%07-278-0579; Orellana 4-35, near the market; h8am-6pm)
Visit Ciclos, a bike shop run by Angel and Erwin Barros, for advice on outings. An excellent ride swoops through the hills to La Florida (2½ hours). It’s best to have your own bike, but they may be willing to rent.
4Sleeping & Eating
Posada D’LeónGUESTHOUSE$
(%099-095-6649, 07-278-1983; cnr Gonzalo Pesántez & Domingo Comín; s/d $10/20; W)
Posada D’León has a clean-cut cream edifice with 10 substantial, nicely kept rooms. It’s a few paces down from the main square.
Los PinchosFAST FOOD$
(Plaza; mains $1-6; hnoon-midnight)
On the main square, atmospheric Los Pinchos is a bar which serves the eponymous pinchos (skewered grilled meat and vegetables) street-side for a dollar a pop.
8Information
The tourist booth (%07-278-0109; García Moreno, near Pesantez; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) has information about nearby Inca sites and attractions.
8Getting There & Away
The bus terminal is four blocks downhill from the main square. Multiple daily buses go to Loja ($7.50, 5½ hours) via Zamora ($3.50, four hours). You can also forge through to Cuenca via Sigsig ($10, seven hours). Buses heading north go to Sucúa ($9, five hours) and Macas ($10, six hours).
Kapawi Ecolodge & Reserve
Located in the heart of Achuar wilderness, in one of the most remote parts of the Ecuadorian Amazon, Kapawi (%310-598-3402 in the US; www.kapawi.com; s/d 3 nights incl full board from $1388/2136) S offers a pristine, ecologically and culturally sound experience. Many outfits claim similar practices, but few execute like this. The lodge has received many accolades for its approach and is operated and run exclusively by the Achuar.
The lodge is made up of 18 thatched, screened cabins built on stilts over a lagoon, each with private bathroom and a balcony. Low-impact technology such as solar power, trash management, recycling, sound water treatment and biodegradable soaps are used in daily operations.
Instead of just photographing the Achuar, guests are invited to their homes and offered yuca (cassava) beer, which begins a unique cultural exchange. Small groups are accompanied by an Achuar guide and a bilingual naturalist, who work in tandem to explain the intricacies of the rainforest, both ecologically and culturally.
The lodge is just off Río Pastaza, on an oxbow lake on Río Capahuari, and is reached by canoe from the nearby landing strip. The nearest town is a 10-day walk away. Packages include all meals, guided tours and round-trip transportation from Quito.