Coconut Grove
Coconut Grove was once a hippie colony, but these days its demographic is more middle class. It's a pleasant place to explore with intriguing shops and cafes, and a walkable village-like vibe. It's particularly appealing in the evenings, when residents fill the outdoor tables of its bars and restaurants. Coconut Grove backs onto the waterfront, with a pretty marina and pleasant green spaces.
The Sights in a Day
MBeat the crowds by getting an early start at Vizcaya Museum & Gardens – home to one of Miami's most beautiful buildings. Take a leisurely stroll in the serene grounds overlooking the waterfront. Afterwards, head to the center of Coconut Grove for a late breakfast at the excellent GreenStreet Cafe.
RBurn off those blueberry pancakes on a stroll around the gardens at Kampong. You'll have to reserve ahead, but it's well worth the effort to see these beautifully landscaped grounds. Afterwards, check out indie shops like the Polished Coconut and peruse the stores at CocoWalk. Save lunch though for the Spillover, an atmospheric spot for thoughtfully sourced bistro grub.
NAround sunset, perch yourself on the waterside deck of Monty's Raw Bar. Come for happy-hour specials, like $1 oysters, and stick around to see the place come to life as regulars hobnob over drinks. Afterwards, have dinner at Boho, a great spot to sample Grove cooking at its most creative.
Top Sight
l Local Life
x Best of Miami
Eating
Drinking
Shopping
Getting There
g Bus No 48 takes you from Brickell Ave at SE 14th St (a short walk from the Financial District Metromover station) to the heart of Coconut Grove, traveling along S Bayshore Dr.
q Bike There are several Citi Bike kiosks in Coconut Grove, meaning you could cycle here from other parts of the city, particularly Downtown, which is about 5 miles away.
Top SightsVizcaya Museum & Gardens
They call Miami the Magic City, and if it is, this Italian villa, the housing equivalent of a Fabergé egg, is its most fairy-tale residence. Perched over the water, Vizcaya is a fascinating place to wander, with art-filled rooms, lavish antique furniture and picturesque gardens.
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
%305-250-9133; www.vizcayamuseum.org; 3251 S Miami Ave; adult/6-12yr/student & senior $18/6/12; 
h9:30am-4:30pm Wed-Mon; 
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Background
In the early 1900s, the millionaire industrialist James Deering began wintering in South Florida. The Chicago-based bachelor was diagnosed with ‘pernicious anemia’, for which doctors recommended he spend more time in a warm, sunny climate. And so, in 1912 he bought 130 acres on the edge of Biscayne Bay and began building a grand mansion that took a decade to complete. The work required a staggering amount of manpower with more than 1000 workers taking part in the construction.
The House
The Renaissance-inspired mansion is a classic of Miami’s Mediterranean Revival stye. Thirty-four of its original 70 rooms are packed with exquisite artwork and beautifully made furnishings, some of which date back to the 15th century. There’s much to gawk at here, from finely painted frescoes to lush stained-glass doors. Deering collected objects not only for their age and beauty, but for the connection to historical figures and events, which adds to the appeal of the collection.
The largest room in the house is the informal living room, dubbed ‘the Renaissance Hall’ for its works dating from the 14th to 17th centuries. The Admiral Carpet here was created for the grandfather of King Ferdinand of Spain in the 1400s.
The Gardens
On the south side of the house stretches a series of gardens that are just as impressive as the interior of Vizcaya. Modeled on formal Italian gardens of the 17th and 18th centuries, these manicured spaces form a counterpoint to the wild mangroves beyond. Sculptures, fountains and vine-draped surfaces give an antiquarian look to the grounds, and an elevated terrace (the Garden Mound) provides a fine vantage point over the greenery.
Local LifeWandering the Grove
Tree-lined streets, outdoor cafes and pretty waterfront green spaces give Coconut Grove a village-like vibe. Its compact center is more walkable than many other parts of Miami, which is a big draw for many residents. Grove folk would agree: strolling among its one-of-a-kind boutiques and neighborhood watering holes is one of the best ways to spend a sunny afternoon.
1Peacock Park
Along the waterfront,this Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; 2820 McFarlane Rd) serves as the great open backyard of Coconut Grove. Families stop by the playground, visitors join the action on the ball fields, while power walkers take in the view on a scenic stroll along the bayfront.
2Glass & Vine
On the edge of Peacock Park, the star attraction of this eatery (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.glassandvine.com; 2820 McFarlane Rd; mains lunch $9-14, dinner $17-32; h11:30am-3:30pm & 5:30-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat) is its outdoor setting. Offerings at lunch include tabbouleh and shrimp sandwiches; for dinner, try the charred cauliflower and sea scallops.
3Book Browsing & Dining
Independent Bookstore in the Grove (
GOOGLE MAP
; %305-483-2855; www.thebookstoreinthegrove.com; 3390 Mary St; h7am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat, 8am-8pm Sun) is a good spot for all kinds of lit, and has a great cafe (including all-day breakfast), and even happy-hour drink specials.
4First Flight Out
Inside the CocoWalk shopping gallery, this store (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.thefirstflightout.com; 3015 Grand Ave, CocoWalk; h11am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri-Sun) sells vintage Pan Am gear – leather satchels, luggage tags, T-shirts and passport covers with that iconic logo from a bygone era of travel.
5Panther Coffee
Miami's best coffee purveyor (headquartered in Wynwood) has a branch in Coconut Grove, which serves boldly flavored pick-me-ups, plus heavenly bakery items. It’s a great spot (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.panthercoffee.com; 3407 Main Hwy; coffees $3-6; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat, from 8am Sun) to linger over the paper or simply take in a slice of life in the Grove.
6Celestial Treasures
Your one-stop shop (
GOOGLE MAP
; %305-461-2341; 3444 Main Hwy; h11am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat) for spiritual and metaphysical needs, this shop has books, cards and components for those interested in Zen, Buddhism, Hinduism, Wicca, kabbalah and yoga. Also has staff psychics on hand.
7Barracuda
Coconut Grove has its share of divey, pretension-free bars, and Barracuda (
GOOGLE MAP
; %305-918-9013; 3035 Fuller St; hnoon-3am Tue-Sun, from 6pm Mon) is one of the best of the bunch, with a fine jukebox, pool table, darts and sports playing on the various TV screens. It's a fine retreat from CG's shiny shopping surfaces – the inside is decorated with wood salvaged from an old Florida shrimp boat.
8Last Carrot
Going strong since the 1970s, the Last Carrot (
GOOGLE MAP
; %305-445-0805; 3133 Grand Ave; mains $6-8; h10:30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4:30pm Sun; 
v
c) serves up fresh juices, delicious pita sandwiches, avocado melts, veggie burgers and rather famous spinach pies, all amid old-Grove neighborliness. The Carrot’s endurance next to massive CocoWalk is testament to the quality of its good-for-your-body food served in a good-for-your-soul setting.
9Bianco Gelato
A much-loved spot in the neighborhood, particularly among Coconut Grove's youngest residents, Bianco (
GOOGLE MAP
; %786-717-5315; 3137 Commodore Plaza; ice cream $3.50-7) whips up amazing gelato. It's made from organic milk and all natural ingredients.
aBarnacle Historic State Park
This 1891, five-acre pioneer residence of Ralph Monroe, Miami’s first honorable snowbird is open for guided tours, as is the surrounding park (
GOOGLE MAP
; %305-442-6866; www.floridastateparks.org/thebarnacle; 3485 Main Hwy; admission $2, house tours adult/child $3/1; h9am-5pm Fri-Mon; c) , which is a shady oasis for strolling. Barnacle hosts moonlight concerts too.
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