Whether for religious, traditional or cultural reasons, Italy has no shortage of festivals throughout the year, and at Christmas, Easter or during the summer months you are likely to come across at least one local festival celebrating an historic event, a patron saint’s day, a town’s local produce or some artistic talent.
Recently there’s also been a revival of the carnival (carnevale), the last fling before Lent, although the anarchic fun that was enjoyed in the past has generally been replaced by elegant, self-conscious affairs, with ingenious costumes and handmade masks. The main places to head for are Venice, Viareggio in Tuscany and Acireale in Sicily, although smaller towns also often put on a parade.
Perhaps the most widespread local event in Italy is the religious procession, which can be a very dramatic affair. Good Friday is celebrated in many towns and villages – particularly in the south – by parading models of Christ through the streets accompanied by white-robed, hooded figures singing penitential hymns. Many processions have strong pagan roots, marking important dates on the calendar and only relatively recently sanctified by the Church. Superstition and a desire for good luck are very much part of these events.
Despite the dwindling number of practising Catholics in Italy, there has been a revival of pilgrimages over the last couple of decades. These are as much social occasions as spiritual journeys with, for example, as many as a million pilgrims travelling through the night, mostly on foot, to the Shrine of the Madonna di Polsi in the inhospitable Aspromonte mountains in Calabria. Sardinia’s biggest festival, the Festa di Sant’Efisio, sees a four-day march from Cágliari to Pula and back, to commemorate the saint’s martyrdom.
There are many festivals that evoke local pride in tradition. Medieval contests like the Palio horse race in Siena perpetuate allegiances to certain competing clans, while other towns put on crossbow, jousting and flag-twirling contests, with marching bands in full costume accompanying the event with enthusiastic drumming. Far from staged affairs, these festivals are highly significant to those involved, with fierce rivalry between participants.
Food-inspired feste are lower-key, but no less enjoyable affairs, usually celebrating the local speciality of the region to the accompaniment of dancing, music from a local brass band and noisy fireworks at the end of the evening. There are literally hundreds of food festivals, sometimes advertised as sagre, and every region has them – look in the local papers or ask at the tourist office during summer and autumn and you’re bound to find something going on. Most are modest affairs, primarily aimed at locals and little publicized, but there are a few exceptions.
The home-town pride that sparks off many of the food festivals also expresses itself in some of the arts festivals spread across Italy, particularly in the central part of the country – based in ancient amphitheatres or within medieval walls and occasionally marking the work of a native composer. Major concerts and opera are usually well advertised but also extremely popular, so you should book tickets well in advance.
One other type of festival to keep an eye out for is the summer political shindigs, like the Festa de l’Unità, advertised by posters all over the country. Begun initially to recruit members to the different political parties, they have become something akin to a village fete but with a healthy Italian twist. Taking place mainly in the evenings, the food tents are a great way to try tasty local dishes for a couple of euros, washed down by a cup of wine. There’s usually bingo going on in one corner, the sort of dancing that will make teenagers crimson with embarrassment and the odd coconut shy or the like. In larger towns these have become more sophisticated affairs with big-name national bands playing.
There are literally thousands of festivals in Italy and sometimes the best ones are those that you come across unexpectedly in the smaller towns. Some of the highlights are listed below – we’ve detailed more throughout the Guide. Note that dates change from year to year, so it’s best to contact the local tourist office for specific details.
Naples San Silvestro (New Year’s Eve). New Year is welcomed in by bangers and fireworks on the streets and by throwing old furniture out of windows.
Milan Epifania (Jan 6). Costumed parade of the Three Kings from the Duomo to Sant’Eustorgio, the resting place of the bones of the Magi.
Rome Epifania (Jan 6). Toy and sweet fair in Piazza Navona, to celebrate the Befana, the good witch who brings toys and sweets to children who’ve been good, and coal to those who haven’t.
Sicily Festa di Sant’Agata (Feb 3–5). Riotous religious procession in Catania.
Carnevale (weekend before Lent). Carnival festivities in Venice (www.venicecarnival.com), Viareggio (www.ilcarnevale.com), Foiano della Chiana (Arezzo), Cento (Ferrara), plus many towns throughout Italy.
Ivrea Battle of the Oranges. Carnival Sun–Shrove Tues. A messy couple of days when processions through the streets are an excuse to pelt each other with orange pulp. www.carnevalediivrea.it.
Agrigento Almond Blossom Festival (last two weeks of Feb). Colourful celebration of spring with folk music from around the world.
Venice Su e zo per i ponti (fourth Sun of Lent). A non-competitive 13km orienteering event/pub crawl around town, “up and down the bridges”.
Milan Salone Internazionale del Mobile (third week). The city becomes a showcase for the best of the world’s furniture and industrial design.
Nocera Tirinese Rito dei Battienti (Easter Sat). Macabre parade of flagellants whipping themselves with shards of glass.
Florence Lo Scoppio del Carro (Easter Day). A symbolic firework display outside the Duomo after Mass.
Cocullo (L’Aquila) Festival of snakes (first week of May). One of the most ancient Italian festivals celebrating the patron saint, San Domenico Abate, in which his statue is draped with live snakes and paraded through the streets.
Gubbio Corsa dei Ceri (first Sun). Three 20ft-high wooden figures, representing three patron saints, are raced through the old town by ceraioli in medieval costume.
Camogli Fish festival of San Fortunato (second Sun). The patron saint of fishermen is celebrated with plenty of fried fish, fireworks and bonfires.
Countrywide International Museum Day (mid-May). Museums throughout the country put on events and stay open all night to celebrate the international initiative.
Countrywide International Wine Day (last Sun). Wine estates all over Italy open their cellars to the public.
Siracusa Greek Drama festival (mid-May to mid-June). Classic plays performed by international companies in the spectacular ruins of the ancient Greek theatre.
Alba Truffle Festival (April 24–May 2). Month-long opportunity to sample local delicacies as well as parades and a donkey palio.
Florence Calcio Storico Fiorentino (June 24). Medieval-style football match and other festivities to celebrate San Giovanni, the city’s patron saint.
Verona Verona opera season (from late June). www.arena.it.
Positano (from late June). Amalfi Coast opera and chamber music festival.
Siena Palio (July 2). Medieval bareback horse race in the Campo.
Matera Festa della Madonna della Bruna (July 2). A statue of the town’s patron saint is paraded on a float and then burned.
Palermo Festino di Santa Rosalia (second week). A five-day street party to celebrate the city’s patron saint.
Perugia Umbria Jazz Festival (second week). www.umbriajazz.com.
Bologna Porretta Soul Festival (third week). www.porrettasoul.it.
Santarcangelo di Romagna Festival Internazionale del Teatro in Piazza (mid-July). Contemporary performance in public spaces, just outside Rimini. www.santarcangelofestival.com.
Countrywide Ferragosto (Aug 15). National holiday with local festivals, water fights and fireworks all over Italy.
Siena (Aug 16). Second Palio horse race.
Pésaro Rossini Opera Festival (mid-month). www.rossinioperafestival.it.
Ferrara Ferrara Buskers Festival (end Aug). Gathering of some of the world’s best street performers. www.ferrarabuskers.com.
Venice (end Aug). Start of the oldest International Film Festival in the world (www.labiennale.org).
Venice La Regata di Venezia (first Sun). Gondola race in medieval costume along the Grand Canal.
Verona (Sept 12). Street entertainment and general partying to celebrate the birthday of the town’s most famous lover, Juliet.
Naples Festa di San Gennaro (Sept 15). Festival for the city’s patron saint with crowds gathering in the cathedral to witness the liquefaction of San Gennaro’s blood.
San Giovanni Rotondo, Fóggia (Sept 23). Thousands of followers commemorate the death of Padre Pio.
Marino, Rome Sagra del Vino (first weekend). One of the most famous among hundreds of wine festivals across the country, with fountains literally flowing with wine.
Trieste La Barcolana (second Sun). Boat race. www.barcolana.it.
Perugia Eurochocolate (third and fourth weekend). Italy’s chocolate city celebrates.
Acqualagna, Pésaro Festa del Tartufo Bianco (last Sun). Beginning of a month-long white truffle festival.
Countrywide Olive oil festivals all over Italy.
Stiffe, L’Aquila Bethlehem in the Grotto (first week). Life-size statues from the nativity scene are carried into a 650-metre-deep grotto and positioned for the month among stalagmites and a natural waterfall.
Suvereto, Livorno Festa del Cinghiale (Dec 1–10). A ten-day festival in honour of the wild boar.
Milan Oh Bej, Oh Bej! (Dec 7). The city’s patron saint, Sant’Ambrogio, is celebrated with a huge street market around his church and a day off work and school for all.
Santa Lucia (Dec 13). Milan opera season starts with an all-star opening night at La Scala.
Orvieto Umbria Jazz Winter (end of month). www.umbriajazz.com.