CHAPTER 8
Picnic Baskets
IN THE SUMMER, I live for picnics. They are pure pleasure. They can be potluck-style, where you pick a meeting place and call your friends to bring a dish, or intimate affairs with someone special.
I like to plan and pack a simple themed menu that can suit any adventure, from classic blanketed picnics in the park to on-the-move road trip meals and beyond. But if the baskets I’ve put together here don’t do it for you, or if you’re looking to add or subtract one meal for another, any Modern Lunch recipe that’s packable and doesn’t require reheating (unless you’ve got the power of a campfire or camp stove) is suitable for your midday movable feast.
English Picnic
Shopping at an outdoor market and preparing a spread based on what I find is my favorite way to eat midday, especially on a weekend. With a menu in mind, I’m less likely to overdo it, but I do encourage you to swap in with what’s fresh, local, and appealing in your area, where appropriate. This picnic is inspired by my time living in London, England, where one is spoiled for choice when it comes to weekend market options.
SERVES 4
MENU
Seasonal vegetables
Cheese
Bread
Whole-Wheat Strawberry Shortcake Scones with Cardamom Cream
Beer or wine
Potted Mackerel
SERVES 4 
10 MINUTES 
2 weeks
5 oz (½ whole) smoked mackerel, skin and bones removed (DIY or ask the fishmonger)
1 tsp lemon zest
2 Tbsp lemon juice
1 tsp chopped fresh dill, plus more for garnish
⅛ tsp minced fresh red Thai chili
Good pinch of grated nutmeg
Good pinch of ground cloves
½ cup unsalted butter
Lemon wedges, for serving
1 Add the mackerel to a large bowl and finely flake using your fingers, discarding any stray pin bones.
2 Switch to a spoon and mix in the lemon zest, lemon juice, dill, chili, nutmeg, and cloves. Set aside.
3 In a small saucepan, melt the butter until just liquefied. Measure out 3 tablespoons of melted butter and add to the mackerel mixture, mixing well to combine.
4 Press the mackerel mixture into two small shallow glass jars or ramekins, taking care to gently but firmly secure the mixture without air pockets; smooth the tops. Clean the sides of the jars and divide the remaining butter over top of the pressed mackerel mixture. Before the butter sets, add a few fronds of dill. Chill for at least 2 hours, until the butter is firm. Cover and continue to store in the refrigerator until you are ready to use it, up to 2 weeks.
5 Serve with a spritz of lemon, spread onto baguette, crostini, crackers, or endive.
Whole-Wheat Strawberry Shortcake Scones
WITH CARDAMOM CREAM
SERVES 6 20 MINUTES 1 DAY FOR SCONES AND CARDAMOM CREAM; 2 DAYS FOR STRAWBERRIES
SCONES
2 cups whole-wheat flour, plus more for rolling
2 Tbsp wheat germ or quick-cooking rolled oats
3 Tbsp turbinado sugar, divided
1 Tbsp baking powder
½ tsp salt
2 Tbsp cold unsalted butter, cubed
¼ cup coconut oil, solid, room temperature
¾ cup buttermilk, plus more for brushing
½ tsp citrus zest (grapefruit, lemon, orange, or lime)
STRAWBERRIES
4 cups fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced
2 Tbsp turbinado sugar
1 tsp citrus juice (grapefruit, lemon, orange, or lime)
½ tsp vanilla extract
CARDAMOM CREAM
2 cups whipping cream
2 Tbsp buttermilk or sour cream
1 Tbsp turbinado sugar
¼ tsp ground cardamom
1 For the biscuits, preheat the oven to 450°F.
2 In a large bowl, mix the flour, wheat germ or oats, 2 tablespoons of sugar, baking powder, and salt until fully combined. Using a pastry cutter or quickly with forks or your fingers, cut in the butter and coconut oil until only pea-sized pieces remain and the mixture is sandy in texture. Stir in the buttermilk and citrus zest, and mix briefly until the mixture is combined and dough retains its shape when formed into a ball.
3 Form the mixture into a 1- to 2-inch-high disk on parchment paper using lightly floured hands or a rolling pin. Using a biscuit cutter or drinking glass, cut round biscuits (about 3 to 4 inches in diameter) and space evenly on a large rimmed baking sheet. Re-form the scraps and cut into biscuits until dough is used up, for 6 biscuits.
4 Brush the tops of the biscuits with a bit of buttermilk and sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon of sugar. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until the biscuits are springy when touched and golden brown. Let cool completely on the tray. Store loosely covered at room temperature up to 1 day or freeze for up to 3 months. If you are making these ahead, reheat in a 300°F oven for 5 to 10 minutes (fresh, or frozen and defrosted) to restore the top crust before serving.
5 For the strawberries, mix the strawberries, sugar, citrus juice, and vanilla together and set aside to macerate for 5 to 10 minutes, until the strawberries start to release their juices. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 2 days.
6 For the cardamom cream, whip the cream until soft to medium peaks form. Whisk in the buttermilk or sour cream, sugar, and cardamom. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 day.
7 To assemble, immediately before serving, slice the biscuits in half horizontally. Put a dollop of cream on the bottom biscuit half and cover with macerated strawberries. Top with the second biscuit half and serve.
PICNIC ASSEMBLY
1 Start with packing fridge-cold potted mackerel, cheese, strawberries, cream, and beverages.
2 Lay everything out on a large table or blanket. Pour beverages. Spread mackerel and/or cheese onto bread, garnish with vegetables, and season with a squeeze of lemon.
3 Finish your picnic with strawberry shortcake scones (assembly directions in recipe).
Camping
On my first backcountry camping trip, we hiked for 5 hours—in and out—on one of the toughest sections of the Bruce Trail, in Ontario, carrying 70-pound backpacks. There were tears, bruises, mini fits, and a surprise mountain scaling adventure to tackle. It ended by us getting a ride out of the opposite trail entrance in the back of a pickup truck, followed by our first successful highway hitchhiking endeavor, made possible thanks to a kind soul who drove us all the way back to our car. I have never been so spent, and proud, in my life. After living off packaged and dried foods, spoonfuls of peanut butter, and cans of tuna for 2 days, I dreamt of a more glamorous camping menu, and these recipes were the result. They would suit “glamping,” car camping, and day hikes with a mini stove, but would do well in the backyard, too.
SERVES 4
MENU
Just-Add-Water Miso, Sweet Potato, and Soba Ramen
Honey Marshmallow S’mores
MAKES 24 REGULAR MARSHMALLOWS OR 12 EXTRA-LARGE MARSHMALLOWS 13 HOURS 1 MONTH
Neutral oil, for greasing
½ cup organic icing sugar, gluten-free if necessary
½ cup organic cornstarch, gluten-free if necessary
⅔ cup water, divided
½ oz (2 packages, about 4 tsp) gelatin
¾ cup demerara sugar
⅔ cup honey
¼ cup fine evaporated cane sugar
1 Tbsp vanilla extract
¼ tsp salt
1 Lightly grease an 8- × 8-inch square baking pan with oil. Line with parchment paper so all sides are covered, leaving some to overhang the edges.
2 In a medium bowl, combine the icing sugar and cornstarch. Lightly grease the parchment and dust with the icing sugar mixture to cover the bottom and sides. Tap out the excess sugar and set aside. Do not discard.
3 Add ⅓ cup of water to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Sprinkle in gelatin and let bloom at least 10 minutes.
4 In a medium saucepan, add the remaining ⅓ cup water, the demerara sugar, honey, and cane sugar. Heat over medium-high heat until the sugar is dissolved and a candy thermometer registers 240°F, 4 to 6 minutes.
5 Turn the stand mixer on low and carefully drizzle the melted sugar mixture into gelatin mixture. Turn the speed to medium for 1 minute, and then to high for 10 minutes, or until mixture is pale brown and very fluffy. Quickly beat in the vanilla and salt.
6 Transfer the marshmallow mixture to the prepared baking pan and smooth the top. Dust your hands generously with the icing sugar mixture, and press gently and evenly to level the marshmallow mixture. Let cool uncovered for at least 12 hours, until set.
7 Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. To slice, remove the marshmallow from the parchment and coat a knife with the icing sugar mixture. Slice into 12 extra-large or 24 regular squares, cleaning and coating the knife as necessary. Toss with more icing sugar mixture, dust off the excess, and set on the prepared baking sheet. Set aside for 2 to 4 hours at room temperature.
8 Wrap each marshmallow in parchment. Store in an airtight container for up to 1 month.
MAKES 24 (FOR 12 S’MORES) 40 MINUTES 1 WEEK
2 cups light spelt flour or whole-wheat flour, plus more for rolling
⅓ cup finely chopped pecans (from ½ cup pecan halves)
2 Tbsp ground flaxseed
¼ tsp salt
½ cup coconut oil, melted
¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp water
2 Tbsp honey
1 Tbsp molasses
½ tsp vanilla extract
1 In a large bowl, combine the flour, pecans, flaxseed, and salt.
2 In a medium bowl, combine the coconut oil, water, honey, molasses, and vanilla. Stir the coconut oil mixture into the flour mixture until fully combined. Rest the dough for 10 minutes to allow the flour to absorb the liquid.
3 Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
4 On a lightly floured surface or canvas rolling mat, roll the dough to ¼- to ⅛-inch thickness. Slice into 3- × 3-inch squares. Keep rerolling and cutting the remaining dough. Line the squares up beside each other (they can be very close as they don’t spread, but make sure they aren’t touching) and prick a few times with a fork. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until deep brown and crisp. Cool completely on the baking sheet. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 2 months.
SERVES 12
Two 3½ oz bars dark chocolate, broken into 2-inch squares
24 Graham Crackers
12 small Honey Marshmallows
Long twigs, for toasting
1 Place chocolate squares on half the graham crackers (1 square on each).
2 Skewer the marshmallows on twigs (use 2 or 3 twigs side by side for an extra-large marshmallow, otherwise it will fall off!) and toast over your fire (or, if you’re at home, toast briefly under the broiler, over a tea light, or with a kitchen blowtorch).
3 Place each toasted marshmallow on top of chocolate-topped graham cracker and sandwich with a plain graham cracker. Enjoy (and how could you not?).
Mulled Spiked Cider
SERVES 4 1 hour 3 DAYS
4 cups apple cider (non-alcoholic)
2 thick strips orange peel, plus more for serving
1 cinnamon stick, plus more for serving
2 whole cloves
Whole star anise
Whiskey, to taste
1 In a large fireproof or regular pot or slow cooker, heat the cider, orange peel, cinnamon, cloves, and star anise, covered, over low heat for 1 to 4 hours, until the spices are infused into the cider and the mixture is hot. Spike each mug with whiskey to taste, and ladle in the hot cider. Serve garnished with a fresh cinnamon stick for stirring and a fresh orange peel.
PICNIC ASSEMBLY
1 When packing, start with fridge-cold ramen jars and cider. Pack the s’more components (marshmallows, crackers, and chocolate) outside the cooler.
2 Prepare the cider according to recipe directions (above).
3 Boil water for the ramen in a fireproof pot or on a camp stove, and prepare according to recipe directions (this page).
4 To finish the picnic, prepare s’mores according to recipe directions (this page). If you have lit a fire, be sure to extinguish it!
Waterfront
Growing up, my siblings and I were lucky to spend Northern Ontario summers at our family cottage. Each day after breakfast, we would take snacks and drinks down the hill to the dock, swimming and fishing and boating and grazing all afternoon, until the sun was setting and we could smell dinner up the hill. The roads leading to our cottage were lined with wild raspberry bushes. We would pick the berries and adorn our morning cereal and evening vanilla ice cream with them.
As an adult, I still gravitate toward the gentle din of the water during the summertime, packing lunches, snacks, and even weeknight after-work dinners to be enjoyed by the bay. This is my grown-up version of the food we would snack on at our family cottage.
SERVES 4
MENU
Farro, Beet, Asparagus, and Watercress Picnic Salad
Cold Noodle Salad with Smoked Tofu and Miso-Sesame Dressing
Watermelon slices
Grapefruit and Mint Palomas
SERVES 4 5 MINUTES
Handful fresh mint leaves
Ice
Two 12 oz cans or one 25 oz bottle Italian grapefruit soda, such as San Pellegrino
½–1 cup mescal or tequila, to your preference
¼ cup lime juice
One 12 oz can club soda (optional)
Salt, to taste
1 Smack the mint leaves between your hands to release the oils and add to 4 tall glasses along with the ice. Top each glass with ½ can (¾ cup) of grapefruit soda, 2 Tbsp (1 ounce) to ¼ cup (2 ounces) of mescal or tequila (less for a weaker drink and more for a stronger drink), and 1 tablespoon (½ ounce) of lime juice. Top with a splash of club soda (if using) and a pinch of salt. Serve.
PICNIC ASSEMBLY
1 Before you begin packing, make sure everything is fridge-cold.
2 Lay everything out on a large table or blanket, make the palomas, and enjoy.
Road Trip
A few years ago, Geoff and I drove down the Pacific Coast Highway, stopping along the way to take photos, drink coffee, soak in the best sunset in the world, and, of course, eat. Since then, we’ve had many road trips together, and when it comes to the food, we turn to brighter, fresher tastes to keep our spirits and energy levels high. This menu here delivers those crucial road trip elements, with an electric wake-up call supplied by hydrating turmeric tonics.
SERVES 4
MENU
Cauliflower Fatteh with Pine Nuts and Dates
Root vegetable chips (store-bought)
Sparkling Turmeric, Ginger, and Lemon Tonic
Sparkling Turmeric, Ginger, and Lemon Tonic
SERVES 4 10 MINUTES 1 MONTH (WITHOUT ICE OR CLUB SODA)
Zest of 1 lemon
⅓ cup fresh lemon juice
¼ cup packed coarsely chopped fresh, organic ginger (peeled if not organic)
¼ cup raw honey
2 Tbsp ground turmeric
Pinch of salt
Pinch of ground black pepper
Ice, as needed
Two 12 oz cans club soda
1 Add all the tonic ingredients except ice and club soda to a blender and puree until smooth.
2 Using a fine-mesh sieve lined with a double layer of cheesecloth, strain into a clean jar, pressing or squeezing to extract the ginger juice. Discard the pulp or save it to mix into curries or soups—kind of like a homemade curry paste. Refrigerate the strained juice in an airtight container for up to 1 month.
3 When you’re ready to serve, add the ice to glasses, followed by 1 to 2 tablespoons of the turmeric mixture per glass, to taste. Top with club soda and serve.
PICNIC ASSEMBLY
1 When you begin packing, make sure that all the ingredients are fridge-cold.
2 Once you’ve found the perfect picnic spot, prepare the turmeric tonics, take out your jars, open the chips, and enjoy.
