Fried Shallots, Dry or in Blended Fat
Fried shallots, or crack as I sometimes call them, are the key component in so many Asian recipes for their intense and irreplaceable aroma that makes so many Indian, Taiwanese, and Southeast Asian dishes pop. Whether dry or stored in fat, they can sometimes be found in Asian grocery stores. But I think the homemade version is often superior in quality and fragrance. And once you’re over the illogical fear of making something unfamiliar, you’ll find that this is exponentially easier than baking a cake.
For maximum flavor, use real lard or schmaltz (chicken fat) to fry the shallots. But you can (and I often do) use a combination of either one plus canola oil, depending on what is on hand. I would recommend using at least 50 percent lard or schmaltz that you render from solid pork or chicken fat (don’t worry; it’s so easy), especially if you’re making the wet version, in which the crispy bits from the fat add a lot of flavor to the blended oil. But if you really don’t want to go to the trouble of rendering your own lard or schmaltz, you can go with store-bought.
In the recipe below, you start with a base of dry fried shallots, and you have the option of turning some or all of them into wet fried shallots. I would recommend making a full batch of either dry or wet fried shallots, because the final quantity isn’t a whole lot.
MAKES 2 LOOSE CUPS DRY FRIED SHALLOTS OR 2½ CUPS WET FRIED SHALLOTS
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: truffle shaver, mandoline, or food processor with a thin shaver blade attachment; immersion blender (preferred, for the wet version only)
1 pound (450 g) or at least ½ pound (225 g) solid pork fat or chicken fat/skin, plus canola oil as needed
1 pound (450 g; about 25 to 30 small) shallots
1. To render lard or schmaltz, flash-freeze the pork fat or chicken fat/skin for 30 minutes to 1 hour until hardened, then cut into very small dice, no larger than ¼ inch (0.5 cm). Transfer to a nonstick saucepan 7 to 8 inches (18 to 20 cm) wide and 4 inches (10 cm) deep and set it over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until all the liquid lard or schmaltz has been extracted and the fat dice have become tiny, dry, crispy bits. One way to tell it’s ready is when the sizzling subsides, signaling that all the moisture has evaporated. Turn off the heat. Remove the crispy bits by scooping them off the surface with a sieve and reserve them for Wet Fried Shallots.
2. Now check the lard or schmaltz level in the pan. It should be 2 inches (5 cm) deep. If you used less than 1 pound (450 g) of solid fat, you will need to add canola oil until the level reaches 2 inches (5 cm). Set the pan aside.
DRY FRIED SHALLOTS
1. Peel the shallots using a truffle shaver, mandoline, or food processor with a thin shave blade attachment. You want them in very thin slices, about 1/16 inch (0.2 cm). It’s important that they are all equally thick so that they cook evenly.
2. Line a large baking sheet with paper towels and set aside.
3. Add one-third to one-half of the shallots to the lard or schmaltz; they must be fully submerged. Set the pan over medium-low heat and cook, stirring frequently and separating any shallots that are in clumps. Nothing too dramatic will happen in the first 10 minutes as the shallots slowly soften and lose their moisture. But after 10 minutes they will start to take on a little bit of color, and 12 to 13 minutes in, the shallots should have turned light brown. They might still feel soft at this point, and you may have doubts about the timing, but this light brown color means it’s time to remove the shallots. They will become golden brown as they dry; any darker and they will be bitter.
4. With a webbed or spider strainer, scoop out the fried shallots and drain them over the frying oil, pressing on them with a spoon to let any excess oil drip back into the pot, then transfer them onto the paper towel–lined baking sheet. If they appear to have reclumped, fluff them up with two chopsticks or forks. Set them aside to dry and crisp. Repeat this process with the remaining shallots.
5. When the shallots are completely cooled and crisp, store them in zip-top bags in the freezer. They should be good for at least 6 months.
1. Place the reserved pork fat or chicken cracklings inside the tall cup that comes with your immersion blender. Add the amount of dry fried shallots that you want to turn into the wet version, along with enough frying oil to just barely cover them. Blend with the immersion blender until finely pureed.
2. Store in airtight jars in the fridge for up to 1 month (because the shallots are sort of “sealed” inside fat, they don’t necessarily have to be put in the freezer). Freeze for longer storage.