Western Himachal Pradesh

Western Himachal Pradesh is most famous as the home of the Tibetan government-in-exile and residence of the Dalai Lama at McLeod Ganj, which is a major traveller hub with many opportunities to volunteer or take yoga, meditation or other courses. The Dhauladhar and Pir Panjal ranges make for some excellent trekking and the Chamba Valley lying between them is beautiful and culturally intriguing. Elsewhere, the Bir-Billing area is attracting growing numbers of adventurers and spiritual seekers with its world-class paragliding and numerous Tibetan monasteries.

Dharamsala

%01892 / Pop 20,000 / Elev 1380m

Dharamsala (also spelled Dharamshala) is known as the home of the Dalai Lama, but the untidy market town where the buses pull in is actually Lower Dharamsala. The Tibetan spiritual leader is based 3km up the hill in Upper Dharamsala, also known as McLeod Ganj, and that's where most visitors are heading. When people locally talk about Dharamsala, they usually mean Lower Dharamsala.

Museum of Kangra ArtMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Indian/foreigner ₹20/100; h10am-1.30pm & 2-5pm Tue-Sun)

This museum, just off the main street, displays some fine miniature paintings from the Kangra school, and Chamba rumal embroideries, along with traditional costumes from the area and photos from the devastating 1905 Kangra earthquake.

Hotel DhauladharHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01892-224926; www.hptdc.gov.in; s ₹1720-2050, d ₹2290-2730, ste from ₹3270; W)

This centrally located HPTDC hotel has clean, spacious rooms and a broad restaurant terrace enjoying good valley views, plus a bar.

8Getting There & Away

Dharamsala airport ( GOOGLE MAP ) is at Gaggal, 13km southwest. Air India and SpiceJet both fly daily to/from Delhi, though flights are sometimes cancelled in bad weather.

Buses run from Dharamsala bus station ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) to McLeod Ganj (₹15, 35 minutes) about every half-hour from 6am to 9pm. Services to Delhi include Volvo AC buses (₹1240) at 5.15am, 6.30pm, 8pm and 9.30pm, and an AC deluxe bus (₹950) at 8.30pm.

Dharamsala Taxi Union ( GOOGLE MAP ; %01892-222105) is up a flight of 185 steps from the bus station. Cabs to McLeod Ganj cost ₹200.

Buses from Dharamsala

Destination Fare (₹) Duration (hr) Departures
Amritsar 255 7 5am
Chamba 364 8 3 daily
Dalhousie 171 5 7am
Dehra Dun 535-1045 12 3 daily
Delhi 542-1240 12 10 daily
Gaggal 15 40min every 15min
Jawalamukhi 60 1½ frequent
Kangra 25 1 every 15-30min
Manali 360-815 10 Volvo AC 9.30pm, ordinary 7am & 6pm
Mandi 195-400 6 4 HRTC daily, also private buses
Palampur 50 2 about half-hourly to 8.45pm
Pathankot 136 3½ about hourly, 5am-5.30pm
Shimla 363-522 10 7 daily (morning & evening)

Mcleod Ganj

%01892 / Pop 10,000 / Elev 1740m

When travellers talk of heading up to Dharamsala (to see the Dalai Lama…), this is where they mean. Three kilometres north of Dharamsala town (or 10km via the looping bus route), McLeod Ganj is the residence of His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama and home to a large Tibetan population, including many monks and nuns. The Tibetan government-in-exile is based just downhill at Gangchen Kyishong. McLeod attracts thousands of international visitors each year to volunteer with the Tibetan community, take courses in Buddhism, meditation or yoga, trek in the Dhauladhar mountains, shop for Tibetan crafts, or just hang out and enjoy the low-budget spiritual/alternative vibe and the many good cafes and restaurants dishing up Indo-Italo-Israeli-Tibetan food.

With an interesting mix of travellers, volunteers, maroon-robed monks and nuns, the international dharma crowd and an increasing flow of Indian tourists, you're never far from an interesting conversation here.

Named after Donald McLeod, Lieutenant-Governor of Punjab, McLeod began life in the 1850s as a civilian settlement outside the British garrison of Dharamsala. It was devastated by the 1905 Kangra earthquake and sank into obscurity after Independence – until the Dalai Lama arrived to establish his base here in 1960. Since then, McLeod has become a vibrant centre of Tibetan culture and Buddhism.

The monsoon (late June to early September) is particularly wet here, and warm clothes are useful between November and March. Many shops and businesses close on Monday.

1Sights & Activities

oTsuglagkhang ComplexBUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Temple Rd; h5am-8pm Apr-Oct, 6am-6pm Nov-Mar)

The main focus of visiting pilgrims, monks and many tourists, the Tsuglagkhang complex includes the Tsuglagkhang itself (the main Tibetan temple), the Namgyal Gompa and the excellent Tibet Museum.

oTsuglagkhangBUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The revered Tsuglagkhang is the exiles’ concrete equivalent of the Jokhang temple in Lhasa and was built in 1969. The central image is a gilded statue of the Sakyamuni Buddha. To its left are gilded statues of Avalokitesvara (the bodhisattva of compassion, Tibet's patron deity) and Padmasambhava, the Indian sage believed to have helped spread Buddhism in 8th-century Tibet, and a wooden 'starving Buddha' representing the Buddha near the end of his six years of ascetic meditation at Bodhgaya.

Namgyal GompaBUDDHIST MONASTERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Namgyal Gompa is the monastery in the Tsuglagkhang Complex. You can watch the monks in lively debate in the courtyard from 2pm to 3pm daily except Sunday, sealing points of argument with a foot stamp and theatrical clap of the hands. The entrance to the Dalai Lama's residence, not open to the public, is on the south side of the courtyard.

Kalachakra TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Before visiting the Tsuglagkhang itself, pilgrims first visit the Kalachakra Temple on its west side, which contains mesmerising murals of the Kalachakra (Wheel of Time) mandala, specifically linked to Avalokitesvara, of whom the Dalai Lama is a manifestation.

oTibet MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://tibetmuseum.org; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Sun & Tue-Fri & 1st Sat of the month, to 5pm Oct-Mar)F

The museum tells the story of Tibetan history, the Chinese occupation and the continuing Tibetan resistance and exodus, through photographs, video and clear English-language display panels. It also covers the Dalai Lama and his life's work. A visit here is a must.

Kora CircuitWALKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Most Tibetan pilgrims make a clockwise kora (ritual circuit) around the outside of the Tsuglagkhang Complex. To join them, take the downhill road to the left at the complex's entrance then follow the prayer-flag-draped path off to the right after 150m.

St John in the WildernessCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-5pm)

Amid tall cedars 1.5km west of McLeod on the road to Forsyth Ganj, this brooding Gothic church (dating from 1852) is one of the few remaining traces of McLeod's days as a British hill station. The cemetery contains the graves of many victims of the 1905 earthquake, as well as the rocket-like tomb of the Earl of Elgin, the second Viceroy of India.

Tibetan Children’s VillageSCHOOL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01892-221348; www.tcv.org.in; hoffice 9am-12.30pm & 1.30-5pm Mon-Fri)

Just a short hop from the underwhelming Dal Lake, 3km northwest of McLeod, the Tibetan Children’s Village provides free education for nearly 2000 refugee children and lodging for most of them. Founded in the 1960s, it's now one of 12 such schools around India. Visitors are welcome.

oCentral Tibetan SecretariatMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Gangchen Kyishong)

Inside the government-in-exile compound, nearly 2km downhill from the Tsuglagkhang Complex, the Library of Tibetan Works & Archives ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9218422467; www.ltwa.net; Gangchen Kyishong; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd & 4th Sat) began life as a collection of sacred manuscripts saved from the Cultural Revolution. Today it has more than 120,000 manuscripts and books in Tibetan, and more than 15,000 books on Tibet, Buddhism and the Himalayan region in English and other languages.

Upstairs is a fascinating cultural museum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ₹20) with statues, old Tibetan artefacts and books, and some astonishing three-dimensional mandalas in wood and sand.

Nechung GompaBUDDHIST MONASTERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Worth a look if you're in the Central Tibetan Secretariat complex, the colourful Nechung Gompa is seat of the Tibetan state oracle. If you should want to consult the oracle, a monk named Thupten Ngodup, ask in the office here for an appointment with the oracle's secretary.

oMen-Tsee-KhangBUDDHIST SITE

(Tibetan Medical & Astrological Institute; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01892-223113; www.men-tsee-khang.org; Gangchen Kyishong; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd & 4th Sat of the month)

Established to preserve the traditional arts of Tibetan medicine and astrology, Men-Tsee-Khang is a college, clinic, museum, research centre and astrological institute rolled into one. The astrological folk can do a 45-minute oral consultation (₹2000; register in person half a day ahead with your birth date, time and place), or a detailed life-horoscope online, which you'll receive by email and a hard copy within four months (US$85 plus US$20 taxes).

The Men-Tsee-Khang Museum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Gangchen Kyishong; ₹20; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd & 4th Sat) has three floors of fascinating displays on the sophisticated sciences of Tibetan astrology and medicine, told via illustrative thangkas as well as samples of medicines, their plant and mineral sources, and instruments that have been used for some treatments – such as a brass hammer for treating tumours, insanity and body ache. Learn useful facts: cinnamon wards against flatulence; cumin and coriander combat anorexia; gold helps longevity.

Men-Tsee-Khang also runs occasional short courses on the basics of Tibetan medicine.

TIBETAN MEDICINE

Traditional Tibetan medicine is a centuries-old holistic healing practice and a popular treatment for all kinds of minor and persistent ailments. Its methods include massages, compresses, bath and steam therapies, pills made from plants and minerals, and diet and lifestyle advice. There are several clinics around town, including the Men-Tsee-Khang Therapy Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01892-221484; www.men-tsee-khang.org; TIPA Rd; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd & 4th Sat), run by the Tibetan Medical & Astrological Institute.

The most popular amchi (Tibetan doctor) in town is the former physician to the Dalai Lama, Dr Yeshi Dhonden ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01892-221461; Ashoka Niwas; h9am-1pm Sun-Fri), whose tiny clinic is squirrelled away in a passage off Jogiwara Rd. The fantastic reputation of his holistic treatments brings him many cancer patients, among others. On an appointed day every month or two, from 8am, tokens for consultations are given out to all who queue up outside the nearby Ashoka Guest House. Dr Yeshi sees 45 patients a day, six days a week, but he's in such demand that two months' supply of tokens may be given out on a single day. At the actual consultation, patients must bring a sample of urine, which, along with a quick examination, is all the doctor needs to prescribe the appropriate herbal pills.

Yoga, Ayurveda & Massage

McLeod Ganj and neighbouring Dharamkot and Bhagsu have dozens of practitioners of holistic and alternative therapies, some reputable and some making a fast buck at the expense of gullible travellers. Talking to friends and other travellers is the best way to find good practitioners.

Holistic Centre of AyurvedaMASSAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9418493871; holisticmassage16@gmail.com; Ladies Venture Hotel, Jogiwara Rd; 1hr ₹800-1000; h10.30am-7pm)

Resident masseur Shami is very popular, so book a day or two ahead. He offers relaxation, ayurvedic and deep-tissue massages, and can attend to your head, back, face, feet or whole body.

Universal Yoga CentreYOGA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9882222011; www.vijaypoweryoga.com; Youngling School, Jogiwara Rd; 1½hr class ₹200-400; hApr-Sep)

Gets good reports for daily drop-in classes in a variety of techniques at all levels; also does teacher-training courses.

TIBETAN EXILES

In October 1950, about a year after Mao Zedong declared the founding of the People’s Republic of China, Chinese troops invaded Tibet. At the time, Tibet was a de facto independent state led by the Dalai Lama, with a hazy, complicated relationship with China. A year later, in October 1951, Lhasa, the Tibetan capital, fell. Resistance simmered for years in the countryside, and protests against the Chinese occupation broke out in Lhasa in 1959. As the Chinese army moved against the uprising, it fired upon the Norbulingka, the Dalai Lama’s summer palace. Believing his life or his freedom was at risk, the Dalai Lama fled across the Himalayas to India, where he received asylum.

China says its army was sent to Tibet as liberators, to free Tibetans from feudal serfdom and improve life on the vast high plateau. It hasn’t worked out that way. While the sometimes-quoted figure of 1.2 million Tibetans killed since 1950 is seriously disputed, no independent observers question the suffering and human-rights abuses, as well as huge losses to Tibet’s cultural legacy, that have occurred under Chinese occupation. Many Tibetans still risk the dangerous crossing into India. Today there are 100,000 or more Tibetans in India, including those born here. Many new arrivals come first to the Dharamsala area, where they find support from their community (more than 10,000 strong), their government-in-exile and a legion of NGOs. There are also large Tibetan communities in Karnataka state, where several settlements have been set up since the 1960s.

Trekking

It’s possible to trek to the Chamba or Kullu Valleys and even Lahaul, and several agencies in McLeod and in Dharamkot or Bhagsu can make the necessary arrangements for camping, guides and porters or pack animals. Apart from the demanding Indrahar La trek to the Chamba Valley, the most popular option is the easy three- to five-day loop to Kareri Lake. Guided treks with food, camping and porter(s) can cost anywhere from ₹1500 to ₹3000 per person per day: be sure to check exactly what's being provided for your money – items such as food and any necessary return transport for the workers may not be included in the initial price.

High Point AdventureTREKKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9816120145; highpointadventure@gmail.com; Kareri Lodge, Hotel Bhagsu Rd)

An experienced, knowledgeable team offering some of the best prices in town. It also has an office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Temple Rd; h9am-6pm) on Temple Rd.

Volunteering

McLeod Ganj has more volunteering opportunities than almost anywhere else in India, mostly geared to supporting the Tibetan community in one way or another. Some language conversation classes welcome drop-in participants. For other opportunities it's ideal to make contact a couple of weeks in advance. Many volunteer opportunities are publicised in the free magazine, Contact (www.contactmagazine.net). Travellers should always investigate any volunteer opportunity themselves to assess the standards and suitability of the project. Experts recommend that volunteering should be at least a three-month commitment. Lonely Planet cannot vouch for any organisation that we do not work with directly.

Volunteers generally arrange their own accommodation and meals, though Lha offers homestays with Tibetan families (US$20 per day including breakfast and dinner, minimum one week).

The following organisations are among those that offer, or can provide information on, volunteer opportunities.

Lha ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9882323453; www.lhasocialwork.org; Temple Rd; hoffice 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9-11am 1st & 3rd Sat) This NGO arranges placements at a host of community projects, including for teachers of English and other languages, fundraisers, and healthcare or IT professionals. Minimum periods range from one week to two months. Anyone can participate in English conversation classes with refugees at the office from 4pm to 5pm Monday to Friday.

Learning & Ideas for Tibet ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9882439815; http://learningandideasfortibet.blogspot.com; Jogiwara Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Gives free classes for Tibetan refugees and has a variety of volunteer positions teaching English, French, German, Mandarin or Japanese, and computing skills for beginners. Volunteers can drop in to the 2pm English conversation classes (1½ hours). The office is down the steps leading to Seed Cafe and Pawan Guest House.

Tibet World ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9816999928; http://tibetworld.org; Jogiwara Rd; hoffice 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Has some 600 refugee students each year and uses volunteers for a variety of jobs including teaching English, German, French and Mandarin, preferably for one month minimum. Its yoga classes are also taught by volunteers. It runs drop-in conversation classes in English at 11am and 4pm, and in French and Mandarin at 4pm.

CCourses

The most established and best reputed schools of yoga and meditation are mainly found in Dharamkot and Bhagsu. The Library of Tibetan Works & Archives conducts serious Buddhist philosophy courses ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9218422467; www.ltwa.net; Library of Tibetan Works & Archives, Central Tibetan Secretariat; per month ₹300, registration ₹50; hclasses 9am & 10.30am Mon-Sat) in English lasting from 1½ to four months (1¼ hours daily), plus monthly five-day evening courses (one hour per day), sometimes in Tibetan, sometimes in English.

The Library also runs 4½-month Tibetan language and speaking courses ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9218422467; www.ltwa.net; Library of Tibetan Works & Archives, Central Tibetan Secretariat; per month ₹500, registration ₹50) for beginner, intermediate and experienced students, starting around 1 March and 1 August (five hours a week). Students can join the basic course at any time.

Lhamo’s KitchenCOOKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9816468719; lhamoskitchen@gmail.com; Bhagsu Rd; 2hr class ₹300; h10am-noon & 5-7pm)

Recommended courses in vegetarian Tibetan cooking. Each day focuses on momos, soups or breads, with two or three types of each.

A minimum of two people is required, and you should register at least five hours in advance.

Sangye’s KitchenCOOKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9816164540; Jogiwara Rd; classes ₹250; h10am-noon & 4-6pm Thu-Tue)

Tibetan treats, focusing on momos (including chocolate momos!) every Sunday and Thursday, and noodles on Tuesday and Saturday.

zFestivals & Events

In late January, February or early March, McLeod celebrates Losar (Tibetan New Year) with processions and masked dances at local monasteries. The Dalai Lama often gives public teachings at this time.

The Tibetan Opera Festival (hMar/Apr), held most years at the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts, sees 12 performances on successive days by different groups from India and Nepal, each lasting seven or eight hours.

Several film festivals liven up McLeod's autumn. The Free Spirit Film Festival (www.freespiritfilmfestival.com; hlate Oct) and Dharamsala International Film Festival (http://diff.co.in; hlate Oct/early Nov) screen eclectic selections of independent features, documentaries and shorts, while the Tibet Film Festival (http://tibetfilmfestival.org; hSep or Oct) spotlights films made by Tibetans.

MEETING THE DALAI LAMA

Meeting the Dalai Lama is a lifelong dream for many travellers and certainly for Buddhists, but private audiences are rarely granted. Put simply, the Dalai Lama is too busy with spiritual duties to meet everyone who comes to Dharamsala. Tibetan refugees are automatically guaranteed an audience, but travellers must make do with the occasional public teachings held at the Tsuglagkhang, normally in September or October and after Losar (Tibetan New Year) in February or March, and on other occasions depending on his schedule. For schedules and just about everything you need to know about His Holiness, visit www.dalailama.com. To attend a teaching, register with your passport at the Branch Security Office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %221560; Bhagsu Rd, McLeod Ganj; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri & 1st Sat) in the days leading up to the teaching (if you don't manage this, registration is usually also possible in the early morning at the temple before the teaching starts). To get the most out of the teachings bring a cushion and an FM radio with headset (around ₹450 in local shops) for simultaneous translation.

4Sleeping

Popular places fill up quickly; advance bookings are advisable, especially from April to June and in October.

Kunga GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9857421180; www.kungaguesthouse.com; Bhagsu Rd; r ₹400-1500; W)

Above (and below) Nick’s Italian Kitchen, which is its greatest asset, Kunga offers a huge range of dull but clean rooms in several buildings, and has a helpful travel-booking service. The cheapest rooms share bathrooms.

Om HotelHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9816329985; Nowrojee Rd; r ₹550-650, without bathroom ₹300-350; W)

Friendly, family-run Om, down a lane from the main square, has simple but pleasing rooms with good views, and its terrace catches the sunset over the valley. No reservations are taken so try to go in the morning for a room.

The popular Namgyal Cafe ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Om Hotel, Nowrojee Rd; mains ₹90-350; h9.30am-10pm) here serves well-laden if chewy pizzas, plus decently prepared tofu and potato dishes, soups and more

Loseling Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9218923305; off Jogiwara Rd; d ₹350-500; W)

In an alley off Jogiwara Rd, Loseling is run by a Tibetan monastery in Karnataka. It’s a good cheapie and all rooms have a hot shower; the three rooftop rooms are easily the best.

Hotel Mount ViewHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9816261717; mountmagic786@yahoo.co.in; Jogiwara Rd; r ₹500-1200; W)

A no-frills but well-run budget hotel down busy Jogiwara Rd, Mount View has a travel desk and rooftop cafe as well as a range of rooms, all with attached bath. Look at a few as they vary in view, size, light and airiness.

Seven Hills Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9736597593; TIPA Rd; d ₹450-600, s without bathroom ₹250; iW)

A smallish guesthouse with a big sunny terrace, Seven Hills offers clean rooms and a cafe in a convenient location on TIPA Rd.

Green HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01892-221479; www.greenhotel.in; Bhagsu Rd; r ₹800-2500; aW)

A favourite with midrange travellers and small groups, the Green has a diverse range of sunny, super-clean rooms in three buildings, most with balconies and valley and mountain views. It's very well run by the ever-cheerful Choekyi and has an excellent cafe.

Hotel TibetHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01892-221587; hoteltibetdasa@yahoo.com; Bhagsu Rd; r ₹1190-2380; W)

Bang in the centre of town, this well-run place has a faintly upmarket feel, but reasonable prices. Rooms have parquet floors and there's a cosy multicuisine licensed restaurant and a useful in-house travel office.

Kareri LodgeHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01892-221132; karerilodge@gmail.com; Hotel Bhagsu Rd; r ₹770-2120; W)

Kareri, squeezed in among a string of mostly more upmarket hotels, has five spotless and comfy rooms with soft beds, four of them enjoying great long-distance views from huge windows. There’s a good vibe here, helped by the friendly manager who offers a reliable trekking service.

oChonor HouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9882976879; www.norbulingka.org; off Temple Rd; r ₹5360-7860; aiW)

Up a lane near the Tsuglagkhang, Chonor House is a real gem. It’s run by the Norbulingka Institute, and is decked out with wonderful handmade Norbulingka furnishings and fabrics. Each of the 18 bright and sunny rooms has a Tibetan theme that runs from the carpets to the bedspreads to the murals. Even the cheapest rooms are spacious.

oSerkong HouseHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9857957131; www.norbulingka.org; Nowrojee Rd; s ₹2740-4110, d ₹3430-4790, ste s/d ₹5480/6160; W)

Belonging to the Norbulingka Institute, the Serkong is tasteful, comfortable and well run. Spacious rooms boast Tibetan rugs and Norbulingka-made tables, and the more expensive ones have fine views. Staff are polite and efficient, and the good Tibetan-Indian-Continental restaurant (mains ₹150 to ₹240) eschews white flour and MSG.

5Eating & Drinking

McLeod Ganj is crammed with traveller restaurants serving pretty similar menus – omelettes, pancakes, Indian, Tibetan and Chinese staples, pizzas, pasta and assorted other European food. Happily, many of them do a pretty good job. McLeod also has some of North India's best cafes, with good coffee and English-style tea. For a quick snack, Tibetans sell veg momos on the upper part of Jogiwara Rd and outside the entrance to the Tsuglagkhang.

Nick’s Italian KitchenITALIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bhagsu Rd; mains ₹80-190; h7am-9pm; W)

Unpretentious, well-run Nick’s has been serving up tasty vegetarian pizzas, lasagne, ravioli, gnocchi and quiches for years. Follow up a ground coffee with one of their desserts – apple pie or a heavenly slice of lemon cheesecake.

Shangrila Vegetarian RestaurantTIBETAN, INDIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jogiwara Rd; mains ₹70-90; h7.30am-8.30pm; W)

Shangrila is run by monks of the Gyudmed monastery, some of whom wait on tables and help to engender a notably friendly atmosphere. It serves up tasty, well-priced Tibetan staples including momos (Tibetan dumplings) in soup and baglebs (large fried momos).

Snow Lion RestaurantMULTICUISINE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jogiwara Rd; mains ₹80-150, breakfasts ₹160-195; h7am-9pm; W)

Especially popular for its good-value set breakfasts and decent coffee, the Snow Lion does good momos and thukpa too, and has comfy seating and shelves of books.

oMoonpeakMULTICUISINE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.moonpeak.org; Temple Rd; mains ₹150-300; h7am-9pm; W)

A little chunk of Seattle, transported to India. Come for excellent coffee, breakfasts, cakes, imaginative brown-bread open sandwiches (try the poached chicken with mango, lime and coriander sauce), soups, salads and plenty of well-prepared veg and nonveg main dishes.

It's also a gallery and has a great laid-back bluesy taste in music.

Green Hotel RestaurantMULTICUISINE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bhagsu Rd; mains ₹110-180; h6.30am-9.30pm; W)

This traveller-oriented hotel restaurant, with a sunny terrace and comfy couches inside, serves very good vegetarian food and the earliest breakfasts in town.

Common Ground CafeASIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/commongroundcafe09; Dharamkot Rd; mains ₹80-230; h9am-9pm; W)

The menu is a sizzling variety of Chinese and Tibetan speciality dishes, from Taiwan-style tofu to sha tag (a rich meat-and-veg stir-fry), available without MSG if you like, plus all-day Western-type breakfasts. The coffee's good, too. The atmosphere is pleasingly laid-back and sociable, with shared tables and floor cushions.

Tibet KitchenTIBETAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jogiwara Rd; mains ₹120-300; hnoon-9.30pm)

It's worth queueing here to try the spicy Bhutanese food including kewa datse (potatoes, beans and chilli in cheese sauce) and unusual Tibetan dishes including shapta (roasted lamb slices with capsicum and onion). The momos are good too, and there are also Thai and Chinese flavours. Its three floors of tables are often full of travellers, monks and locals.

Lung TaJAPANESE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jogiwara Rd; set meals ₹200; hnoon-8.30pm Mon-Sat)

The daily set menus are the best choice at this popular, vegetarian Japanese restaurant, especially on Tuesdays and Fridays when they include sushi rolls and miso soup. The food and ambience are authentic enough to attract Japanese travellers looking for a taste of home. Profits go to the NGO Gu-Chu-Sum.

McLlo RestaurantMULTICUISINE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Main Sq; mains ₹200-400; h9.30am-11.30pm)

Crowded nightly and justifiably popular, this large, four-floor place serves a mind-boggling menu of Indian, Chinese and international fare, including pizzas and pasta. The semi-open-air top floor is one of McLeod's best places to enjoy a cold beer (₹220-plus).

3Entertainment

Irregular live-music nights or jam sessions are advertised around town. The Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts (TIPA; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9418087998; http://tipa.asia; TIPA Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd & 4th Sat) stages irregular cultural performances, including a 1½-hour show of folk and ritual dance and song, Dances from the Roof of the World, and concerts by the electric folk fusion group Aa Ka Ma. Check its Facebook page or website for upcoming events. Tibet World puts on a Tibetan folk show at 6.30pm on Thursdays (₹200) and shows documentary films (free) at 4pm on Saturdays.

7Shopping

Dozens of shops and stalls sell Tibetan artefacts, including thangkas, bronze statues, metal prayer wheels, turquoise necklaces, yak-wool shawls and 'singing' bowls. Some are Tibetan-run, but others are run by Kashmiri traders who apply a degree of sales pressure. Several local cooperatives offer the same goods without the hassle. And – book lovers rejoice! – McLeod undoubtedly has the highest bookshop-to-population ratio in India.

Tibetan Handicraft CenterARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01892-221415; www.tibetan-handicrafts.com; Jogiwara Rd; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat)S

This cooperative employs refugees for the weaving of Tibetan carpets. You’ll pay around ₹13,500 for a 0.9m by 1.8m traditional wool carpet, and they'll ship it if you like (₹2500 to ₹3500 to Europe, ₹4500 to the USA). Visitors are welcome to watch the weavers in action. There's also a shop with other attractive goods, including quality thangkas (₹20,000-plus).

BookwormBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01892-221465; Hotel Bhagsu Rd; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun)

McLeod's best all-round bookshop.

Green ShopARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bhagsu Rd; h9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat)S

Sells appealing handmade, recycled paper products, organic peanut butter, tahini and more.

8Information

Contact (www.contactmagazine.net) is an informative, free local magazine with useful information about courses and volunteer work. Available online and in paper form at several cafes, restaurants and hotels in McLeod Ganj.

Delek HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01892-222053; www.delekhospital.org/delek; Gangchen Kyishong; consultations before/after noon ₹10/50; houtpatient clinic 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri & 1st Sat of the month, 9am-1pm 3rd, 4th & 5th Sat of the month)

A small, Tibetan-run hospital practising allopathic medicine, with a 24-hour emergency service.

Pick & Speak Mobile ShopELECTRONICS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jogiwara Rd; h8.30am-8.30pm)

Sells SIM cards for ₹200 (not including data or calls). Bring your phone and passport.

Thomas CookEXCHANGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Temple Rd; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat)

Changes cash and travellers cheques with 0.15% tax (minimum ₹35) and a ₹50 transaction fee, and gives advances on credit cards for a 3% charge.

8Getting There & Around

Many travel agencies in McLeod will book train tickets for a commission of ₹100.

Air

Dharamsala airport has flights to/from Delhi.

Autorickshaw

The autorickshaw stand ( GOOGLE MAP ) is just north of the main square. Fares are around ₹60 to Bhagsu and ₹70 to Dharamkot.

Bus

Buses start from and arrive at the New Bus Stand ( GOOGLE MAP ), 150m north of the main square. Buses and overcrowded jeeps to Dharamsala (both ₹15, 35 minutes) run about every 15 to 30 minutes from 4am to 8pm.

Some long-distance buses start from McLeod, but there are more frequent departures from Dharamsala bus station. You can book government (HRTC) buses from both places at McLeod's HRTC ticket office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Main Sq; h9am-7pm). In addition, travel agencies sell seats on private buses to Delhi (₹900 to ₹1100, 12 hours, 6pm to 7pm), Manali (₹400 to ₹600, 11 hours, 8.30pm and 9.30pm), Amritsar (₹600, seven hours, morning and evening) and elsewhere.

HRTC Buses from McLeod Ganj

Destination Fare (₹) Duration (hr) Departures
Dehra Dun 550-1080 12 3 daily
Delhi 580-1275 12-13 4am, 6pm & 7.30pm (ordinary); 5pm (semi-deluxe); 6.30pm & 7.45pm (deluxe); 5.30pm & 7pm (Volvo AC)
Manali 400 11 4.30pm
Pathankot 150 4 5 daily

Taxi

McLeod’s taxi stand ( GOOGLE MAP ; %01892-221034; Mall Rd) is just north of the main square. A taxi for the day, travelling less than 80km, should cost ₹1600. One-way fares include ₹100 to Gangchen Kyishong, Dharamkot or Bhagsu, ₹200 to Dharamsala bus station, ₹800 to Dharamsala airport, ₹4000 to Chamba and ₹4500 to Manali.

Indrahar La Trek

This popular four- or five-day route crosses the Indrahar La (4420m) to the Chamba Valley, and can be done in either direction. The pass is normally open from June to early November, but the best months are September and October.

The first day climbs three or four hours to the mountain meadow of Triund, where you can camp and which also has a couple of basic guesthouses, plus dhabas that will rent you a sleeping bag and/or tent. The next stage climbs to the alpine meadow of Laka Got (3350m) and then the rocky shelter known as Lahesh Cave (3600m). With an early start the next day, you can cross the Indrahar La – and be rewarded for the tough climb with astounding views – before descending steeply to the meadow campground at Chata Parao.

The track on down to Kuarsi, crossing summer meadows, can be tricky to find in places. On the final day you reach a road at Hilling, about 5km before Lamu. It's 3km to 5km (depending on short cuts) down from Lamu to Holi-Kharamukh-Chamba road, plied by several buses a day (a couple of these come up to Lamu or Hilling). To reach Bharmour, take a bus as far as Kharamukh and change there.

Stage Route Duration (hr) Distance (km)
1 McLeod Ganj to Triund 3-4 9
2 Triund to Lahesh Cave 3-4 8
3 Lahesh Cave to Chata Parao over Indrahar La 6 10
4 Chata Parao to Kuarsi 5-6 15
5 Kuarsi to Lamu 4 10

Around McLeod Ganj

Bhagsu & Dharamkot

%01892

Through pine trees north and east of McLeod lie the villages of Bhagsu (officially Bhagsunag) and Dharamkot, more rural and laid-back and alternative than McLeod itself. These are the abodes of choice for many budget travellers and long-stayers, and especially popular among Israelis. Here you can take classes in tarot, Reiki, numerology, crystal healing and varieties of yoga you've never heard of, do sitar, tabla or flute lessons, get or learn to give a dozen types of massage, have your hair dreadlocked, dyed or extended, or just lounge in cafes and practise your juggling. Some of the area's best and most serious yoga and meditation schools are here too.

1Sights

Dharamkot retains a quiet village vibe, with the scattered houses of upper Dharamkot stretching almost to the little Gallu Devi Temple on the ridge above. Lower Bhagsu, in contrast, is busy with concrete hotels, shops and discos aimed squarely at domestic visitors. But two minutes up from the main road in Bhagsu you're back in backpackerland: upper Bhagsu is very similar to upper Dharamkot, with which it effectively merges. Lower Bhagsu's small, 16th-century Shiva temple ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Lower Bhagsu) has a cold, clean, spring-fed swimming pool in front of it, and from there it's a 1km walk to Bhagsu waterfall ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), most impressive during the monsoon. En route to upper Bhagsu, 200m up from the main road, drop into the awesomely kitsch Vashnu Mata Temple ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), where you access the inner grotto through a concrete lion's mouth and emerge via the jaws of a crocodile.

2Activities

Terrestrial AdventuresTREKKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9418656758, 9882858628; kcnehria@yahoo.com; Main Sq, Bhagsu; h8am-7pm)

An experienced and well-reputed firm offering a range of serious treks including the Indrahar and Minkiani Pass routes to the Chamba Valley, routes to the Kullu Valley, and a 10-day trek to the Pattan Valley over both the Dhauladhar and Pir Panjal ranges. Indrahar treks cost around ₹3000 per person per day.

Gallu Devi & Triund Hikes

To reach the little Gallu Devi temple, on the ridge above Dharamkot, head along the left side of the water tank opposite Dharamkot's Himalayan Tea Shop ( GOOGLE MAP ; items ₹30-80; h6am-8.30pm), and after 50m turn up a path to the right. This lovely trail winds up through the forest to emerge on a jeep track after 1km: go 500m to the right to reach Gallu Devi.

Alternatively you can walk straight up from the top of Dharamkot in 20 or 30 minutes. A couple of cafes and guesthouses are set on the panoramic ridge where the little temple stands. From here, one track leads gently west downhill to Naddi village (2.5km) and Dal Lake (3km), with the Tibetan Children's Village nearby; another heads about 2km north down to a waterfall; and the main track climbs east through rhododendron woods towards the panoramic mountain meadow of Triund (2900m) – a beautiful walk that gains 800m altitude in a fairly strenuous 2½ to three hours. You pass a couple of tea shops, and Triund has a few dhabas offering simple meals, tents, sleeping bags and beds. An overnight stop gives you the best chance of clear weather, and time to hike one hour up to the teashop and viewpoint at Laka Got meadow (3350m), sometimes called 'Snowline', before heading back down – or continuing upward if you're on the Indrahar La trek.

CCourses

Dharamkot and Bhagsu have many of the area's best options for learning yoga, meditation, Buddhist philosophy and ayurveda. Some places have strict rules on silence, alcohol and smoking.

Tushita Meditation CentreMEDITATION, PHILOSOPHY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://tushita.info; Dharamkot; 10-day course incl accommodation & meals from ₹6000; hFeb-Nov)

Tushita conducts 10-day 'Introduction to Buddhism' silent retreat courses and drop-in meditation sessions at 9.30am daily, except Sunday.

Himalayan Iyengar Yoga CentreYOGA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hiyogacentre.com; TIPA Rd, Dharamkot; 5-day course SAARC citizens/others ₹3200/4000, advance booking fee ₹1000; hMar-Oct)

Five-day courses introducing the Iyengar method start every Monday in the large purpose-built hall here amid green surroundings.

Intensive and teacher-training courses and therapy take place at the ashram west of McLeod.

Ayuskama Ayurvedic ClinicAYURVEDA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9736211210; www.ayuskama.com; Hotel Anand Palace Bldg, Bhagsu; h9am-5pm)

Dr Arun Sharma's ayurvedic treatments and courses get rave reviews. Courses range from a week on massage or nutrition (₹6500 to ₹7500) to three-month diploma courses (₹65,000) and practitioner courses of up to two years.

4Sleeping & Eating

Both villages have plenty of inexpensive guesthouses (many unsigned). Long-stayers can get rooms in small family-run places for around ₹6000 a month, often with kitchen use too.

Trimurti Garden CafeGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9816869144; www.trimurtigarden.in; Lower Dharamkot; r ₹600, s/d without bathroom ₹300/400; W)

Friendly, secluded Trimurti has eight neat, spotless rooms centred on a lovely green garden. The cafe, open to all (8am to 9pm), serves excellent homemade food from muesli to salads to cakes to vegetarian thali. You can learn tabla, flute, sitar or vocals from Ashoka, the father of the family, and two friendly dogs enhance the homey atmosphere.

The rooms are booked out from April to June and mid-September to mid-October for popular yoga teacher-training courses (www.trimurtiyoga.com).

Raj ResidencyGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9736129703, 9418607040; Upper Dharamkot; r ₹700-1000; W)

There are fine views from this two-storey stone house and its wide front lawn towards the top of Dharamkot, and the eight rooms are spacious and clean, with some arty bathroom tiling. Breakfast is available. It's popular for stays of two to three weeks or more.

Valley ViewGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9418054693; Dharamkot; s/d ₹500/600; W)

There's no sign but it's easy to find this four-storey building behind Himachal Trekkers as you walk up through Dharamkot. It has plenty of no-frills but adequately clean rooms and a sociable atmosphere.

Cool Talk CafeMULTICUISINE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9736365156; Dharamkot; dishes ₹90-200; h9am-9pm)

A neat, clean little place up a quiet lane above Dharamkot's main street, with cushion or chair seating and well-done dishes ranging from Indian staples to momos, hummus, baba ganoush or toasted sandwiches, and teas, coffees, juices or lassi to drink. It also has two bright rooms (₹800) with sunny balconies.

Space OutMULTICUISINE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Dharamkot; mains ₹160-190; h8.30am-11pm)

Polish-run Space Out is a space to relax on floor cushions beneath mural-daubed walls and enjoy good couscous, Thai curries, pasta, vegie burgers or whatever else is chalked up on the board.

NORBULINGKA INSTITUTE

The wonderful Norbulingka Institute (%9418436410; www.norbulingka.org; local & Tibetan ₹20, tourist ₹50; h9am-5.30pm), 6km southeast of Dharamsala, was established in 1988 to teach and preserve traditional Tibetan art forms and is a fascinating place to visit.You can watch artisans at work on woodcarving, metal statue–making, thangka painting and embroidery on free tours. Also set among the institute's delightful Japanese-influenced gardens are the Deden Tsuglakhang temple , with a 4m-high gilded Sakyamuni statue, and the Losel Doll Museum (local & Tibetan ₹5, tourist ₹20), which uses charming dioramas with dolls dressed in traditional costumes to illustrate aspects of traditional Tibetan culture. On Sundays and the second Saturday of each month, the workshops are closed but the rest of the complex is open.

The institute's shop sells some of the expensive but beautiful craftworks made here, including jewellery, painted boxes and embroidered clothes and cushions. Visitors can join one of the craft studios to do customised workshops, for any period, at ₹1500/2000 per half-day/day. Book at least two days ahead.

Peaceful and stylish Norling House (%9816646423; www.norbulingka.org; r/ste ₹3690/5430; aW), in the institute's gardens, offers comfortable rooms decked out with Buddhist murals and Norbulingka handicrafts, arranged around a sunny atrium. Vegetarian food, and good coffee, are available at Hummingbird Cafe (mains ₹150-200; h7am-9pm; W).

To get here, catch a Palampur-bound bus from Dharamsala and get off at Sacred Heart School, Sidhpur (₹7, 15 minutes), from where it’s a 1km gentle uphill walk (or ₹80 taxi ride). A taxi to/from McLeod Ganj costs ₹350.

Kangra

%01892 / Pop 9500 / Elev 734m

Once capital of the princely state of Kangra, this bustling town 18km from Dharamsala is a good day trip from McLeod Ganj, with a dramatic fort and important Hindu temple. You can combine Kangra with the impressive 10th-century temples at Masrur, 40km west.

1Sights

Kangra FortFORT

(www.royalkangra.com; Indian/foreigner ₹15/200, audio guide ₹100/200; hdawn-dusk)

The impregnable-looking Kangra Fort, at least 1000 years old, soars on a high promontory of land between the Manjhi and Banganga Rivers. Head up through a series of gates and passages to the palace area at the top for views north to the mountains and south to the plains.

The fort is at the south end of town, a ₹100 autorickshaw ride from the bus stand. It was occupied by Hindu rajas, Mughal and Sikh conquerors and even the British (from 1846), before it was finally toppled by the 1905 Kangra earthquake.

Maharaja Sansar Chand MuseumMUSEUM

(%01892-265866; Indian/foreigner ₹30/100, audio guide ₹150/200; h9am-5.30pm)

About 200m up the road from Kangra Fort is the well-displayed Maharaja Sansar Chand Museum, whose ornate palanquins, peacock-feather fans and pashmina fly-whisks give fine insights into the lifestyle of the erstwhile Kangra royal family, the Katochs – a dynasty so ancient that early members fought against the Pandavas of the Mahabharata (or so a history panel tells us).

Brajeshwari Devi TempleHINDU TEMPLE

Hindus visit Kangra to pay homage at the Brajeshwari Devi Temple, one of the 51 Shakti peeths, famous temples marking the sites where body parts from Shiva's first wife, Sati, fell after the goddess was consumed by flames (the temple marks the final resting place of Sati's left breast).

It's reached through an atmospheric bazaar lined with shops selling prasad (religious food offerings) and religious trinkets, winding 10 minutes uphill from the main road 1km south of the bus stand.

4Sleeping & Eating

Kangra hotels are mostly dreary. Easily best is Hotel Grand Raj (%01892-260901; www.hotelgrandraj.com; Dharamshala Rd; d ₹2250-5820; aW), opposite the bus station, though the cheapest rooms are small and can be stuffy and noisy. The Royal Hotel (%01892-265013; royalhotel@rediffmail.com; opposite Civil Hospital; r without/with AC ₹900/1500; a), 800m further south along the main road, is a reasonable budget option offering neat, good-sized, tiled rooms with hot showers. Both these hotels have decent restaurants.

8Getting There & Away

Buses run about every 30 minutes to Dharamsala (₹25, one hour), Palampur (₹55, 1½ hours) and Pathankot (₹130, three hours).

A return taxi from McLeod Ganj to Kangra Fort costs ₹1300, including waiting time.

KANGRA VALLEY TOY TRAIN

Lumbering narrow-gauge trains run east from Pathankot, providing a scenic if slow route to Kangra (five hours), Palampur (six hours), Baijnath (seven hours) and Jogindernagar (nine hours). Two trains go all the way to Jogindernagar; the other four only go as far as Baijnath. Fares are ₹35 or less to any destination, but carriages are generally packed and seats cannot be booked in advance. Board early to grab a window seat and enjoy the views.

Masrur

Winding roads through pleasant green hills lead 40km west from Kangra (or 31km southwest from Gaggal) to the impressive 10th-century Masrur temples (Indian/foreigner ₹15/200; hdawn-dusk). Though badly damaged by the 1905 earthquake, the elaborately carved sandstone sikharas – very rare examples of rock-cut temples in northern India – bear a passing resemblance to the Hindu temples at Angkor Wat in Cambodia and to Ellora in Maharashtra. You can climb to the upper level for mountain views and the tank in front provides photogenic reflections.

The easiest way to get here is a taxi day trip (around ₹2500 from McLeod Ganj if combined with Kangra, or ₹2000 without Kangra). Alternatively you can reach Lunj (₹50, 1½ hours) from Dharamsala by bus, then take a Nagrota Surian–bound bus 4km southwest to the junction at Pir Bindli, then either walk the last 2.5km or wait for one of the hourly buses to the temples.

Dharamsala to Mandi

The scenery along the wide valley stretching southeast from Dharamsala is dramatic, with the Dhauladhar Range rising to the north, and the valley sweeping away down towards the plains.

Palampur

%01894 / Pop 10,000 / Elev 1260m

About 35km southeast of Dharamsala, Palampur is a bustling little market town surrounded by tea plantations and rice fields at the foot of the Dhauladhar range. You can visit tea factories and temples and hike in the hills just above the town.

1Sights & Activities

There are good walks in and above the lush, green Bundla valley that reaches back into the hills north of town. Vindhyavasini temple, high on the east side of the valley, is a scenic walk of some 9km, gaining 500m altitude, about three hours from the 'Water Tank Point', 4km north of the centre (around ₹350 by taxi). A good hiking and sightseeing guide who knows the Palampur area and its hills well is Atul Sharma (%9816272105; atulsharma2k@yahoo.co.in).

Vaidyanath TempleHINDU TEMPLE

(Baijnath)

High above the Binwa River at Baijnath, 17km southeast of Palampur, this exquisitely carved 13th-century temple is sacred to Shiva in his incarnation as Vaidyanath, Lord of the Physicians. Buses between Palampur and Mandi stop at Baijnath bus station, almost opposite the temple.

Wah Tea EstateTEA ESTATE

(%9418026354; www.wahtea.com; Deogran; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)F

On the hour-long visits you walk through tea and herb gardens, tour the drying, rolling, heating and grading operations, and get the chance to taste the green and black teas. It's 7km south of Palampur, around ₹600 round trip by taxi.

4Sleeping

The pick in town is Norwood Green (%9736031300; www.norwoodgreen.in; Bundla Tea Estate, Lohna village; with half-board r ₹8000-9000, cottage ₹32,000-36,000; W), with bright, sparkling clean four-room cottages (but individual rooms are usually only available Monday to Thursday nights). The area's most atmospheric and luxurious stay is Taragarh Palace (%01894-242034, in Delhi 011-24692317; http://taragarh.com; r ₹7000-10,000; aWs), 12km southeast along the Mandi road, formerly a palace of the royal family of Jammu and Kashmir. The Tea Bud (%01894-231298; www.hptdc.gov.in; s ₹1520-2150, d ₹2030-2860; W) is an acceptable midranger.

8Getting There & Away

From Palampur's bus station, 1km south of the centre, buses leave all day for Dharamsala (₹60, two hours) and Mandi (₹175, 3½ hours). Palampur is also a stop on the Pathankot–Jogindernagar railway.

Bir & Billing

The village of Bir (elevation: 1400m), 2km north of Hwy 154 between Palampur and Jogindernagar, is internationally famous as the base for some of the best paragliding in the world. The take-off point is at Billing, 14km up a winding road from Bir and 1000m higher. Bir-Billing hosts major competitive flying events most years in October or November. Experienced paragliders fly as far as Dharamsala, Mandi and Manali from here.

Bir is also a centre of the Tibetan exile community and home to several gompas (Tibetan Buddhist monasteries) founded since the 1960s, some of which attract foreigners for courses and retreats. There are at least three gompas in the village itself, and two of the biggest and most impressive gompas in India, Sherabling Monastery (www.palpung.org; Bhattu village) and the Dzongsar Khyentse Chökyi Lodrö Institute, lie a few kilometres outside Bir. As a rule, the gompas welcome visitors and normally no special permission is needed to visit their main temples and open-air areas.

Bir Portal (http://birhp.com) has useful info.

2Activities

Several agencies offer tandem paragliding flights of around 30 minutes for ₹1600 to ₹2500 (including transport), depending on the experience and quality of the pilot. A GoPro camera is ₹500 extra. October and November have the best flying conditions. The monsoon prevents flying from mid-July to mid-September.

Paragliding regulation in India is minimal: the best recommendation of who to fly with is word of mouth from others who have done it. One reputable operator is Golden Eagle Paragliding (%9816577607; www.geparagliding.org). For training courses of three to six days, PG-Gurukul (www.paragliding.guru; Blue Umbrella Bldg) comes recommended. Himalayan Sky Safaris (www.himalayanskysafaris.com), run by top paragliders from the UK, provides guided paragliding tours for solo and tandem flyers.

As well as paragliding, the Bir-Billing area is good for walking, trekking and mountain biking.

CCourses

Deer Park InstituteARTS, PHILOSOPHY

(%01894-268508; www.deerpark.in; Tibetan Colony, Bir; course payment by donation, r without/with bathroom ₹400/600, dm ₹100; hoffice 9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat)S

Deer Park attracts around 5000 students from dozens of countries each year to its courses and workshops ranging over Buddhist and Indian philosophy, arts including photography, writing and film-making, the Sanskrit, Pali, Tibetan and Chinese languages, and meditation retreats led by Buddhist masters. Courses are non-academic and experiential, lasting from two days to one month, and are open to all.

4Sleeping & Eating

Several places to stay have restaurants. There is also a number of small restaurants, serving Tibetan or other food.

Chhokling Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$

(%8894112325; chodak_tenzin@yahoo.com; Tibetan Colony; r ₹600-1500; W)

Well-kept, well-managed Chhokling Guesthouse is run by Chhokling Gompa across the street, the largest of the Tibetan monasteries in Bir itself. The guesthouse is open to all, with 16 clean rooms ranging from no-frills cheapies with hard beds to bright abodes with softer beds and big bathrooms.

oColonel's ResortHOTEL$$

(Colonel's Retreat; %9882377469; www.colonelsresort.com; Chougan, Bir; incl breakfast standard s/d ₹2200/3300, deluxe r ₹4400, tent s/d ₹700/1200; W)

The pick of the crop, Colonel's is set in spacious gardens and has options for several budgets, the spacious deluxe rooms being very comfortable by any standards, with big soft beds, large bathrooms with good toiletries, Tibetan rugs and well-made wooden furniture. Excellent, mainly Indian buffet dinners (₹450) are served and management is helpful with arrangements and activities.

8Getting There & Away

Most buses between Palampur and Mandi will drop you at the Bir Road stop on Hwy 154, about 2.5km west of Chauntra. From there local buses (₹10) or taxis (₹100) will take you up to Bir. Taxis cost around ₹1500 to Mandi and ₹800 to Palampur.

Chamba Valley

The scenic Chamba Valley is a splendidly isolated valley system, separated from the Kangra Valley by the Dhauladhar Range and from Lahaul and Kashmir by the Pir Panjal. This area was ruled for centuries as the princely state of Chamba, one of the most ancient states in North India. It's great for temple buffs, trekkers and scenery addicts but well off most tourists' radars.

Dalhousie

%01899 / Pop 10,500 / Elev 2050m

With its plunging pine-clad valleys and distant mountain views, Dalhousie is another of those cool hill retreats left behind by the British. Founded in the 1850s by the viceroy whose name it bears, its heyday came in the 1920s, '30s and '40s when Lahore society flocked here for its hols. Come Partition, Lahore found itself in Pakistan and Dalhousie has never been quite the same again. Today it survives as a relatively staid escape for honeymooners and families from the plains.

1Sights

There's not a lot to see or do except stroll the tree-shaded lanes. Unusually for a hill station, there are few truly steep roads. The market areas at Subhash Chowk and Gandhi Chowk are linked by the lanes Thandi Sarak (Cold Rd) and Garam Sarak (Hot Rd). The latter receives more sunshine. There's a nice 2.5km road walk northeast from Gandhi Chowk to Jandrighat ( GOOGLE MAP ), a summer home of the former Chamba rulers (not open to visitors). The British-era churches of St John ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) (1863) and St Francis ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) (1894) are set among the pines at opposite ends of the ridge.

Dhainkund

The most uplifting spot around Dalhousie is the upland area Dhainkund (2745m), reached by a 4km side road (with short-cut paths) looping up from the impoverished settlement of Lakkar Mandi, which is 12km east of Dalhousie. Taxis (around ₹1000 return from Dalhousie) have to park at a military barrier, from which a scenic 1.5km ridgeline walk leads to the Jai Pohlani Mata Temple ( GOOGLE MAP ), with a teahouse and great views of the Pir Pinjal range. The scenic trail continues 5km along the ridge to tiny Jot, with a couple of dhabas, at the Chuari Pass (2772m) on the Chamba–Chuari Khas road.

Buses to Chamba via Khajjiar stop at Lakkar Mandi (₹15, 30 minutes). Chamba–Dalhousie buses pass through Lakkar Mandi at about 8.30am, 10.45am, 2.45pm and 3.45pm.

4Sleeping & Eating

The restaurants at the Grand View Hotel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01899-240760; www.grandviewdalhousie.in; r incl breakfast ₹3930-5240, ste from ₹6070; W) and neighbouring Hotel Mount View ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01899-242120; www.hotelmountview.net; Club Rd; meals ₹500-600) offer charming settings and good multicuisine fare (buffet breakfast ₹250 to ₹300, lunch or dinner ₹500 to ₹600). For cheap eats, there are Punjabi dhabas around Subhash Chowk.

Hotel MonalHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9418106230; www.hotelmonal.com; Garam Sarak; r ₹2000-2500)

A 10-year-old hotel with bright, clean, decently maintained rooms and superb valley views. Best are the top-floor quarters with private balconies. Vegetarian meals are available and the hotel is good value from about mid-August to mid-April, when rates are slashed by more than half.

Silverton Estate Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9418010674; www.heritagehotels.com/silverton; above Circuit House, Moti Tibba; r ₹5000-8000; hApr-Nov; W)

Silverton is secluded among trees above Thandi Sarak and is the choice pick for colonial character and an old-fashioned kind of comfort. If it feels like staying in a cosy and beloved family home, that's exactly what it is, for the welcoming owners also live here. Have a bash at croquet in the large gardens.

Kwality RestaurantINDIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Gandhi Chowk; mains ₹140-370; h9am-10pm; aW)

The extensive menu at this almost-stylish place stretches to Chinese dishes, burgers and pizza, though Indian is easily the best choice, and the combo meals (₹250 to ₹300) are a very good option.

8Getting There & Around

The bus stand ( GOOGLE MAP ) is at the west end of town. For long-distance services, there are more options from Banikhet, a junction town 7km west (bus/taxi ₹8/220), though you aren't guaranteed a seat there.

There are taxi stands next to the bus stand ( GOOGLE MAP ; near bus stand) and at Subhash Chowk ( GOOGLE MAP ; Subhash Chowk) and Gandhi Chowk ( GOOGLE MAP ; Gandhi Chowk). From the bus stand, you’ll pay ₹100 to Subhash Chowk and ₹150 to Gandhi Chowk. Typical out-of-town fares include ₹1500 to Chamba and ₹3000 to Dharamsala.

Buses from Dalhousie

Destination Fare (₹) Duration (hr) Departures
Chamba via Banikhet 80 2½ 7am, 9.15am, 10.30am, 11.15am
Chamba via Lakkar Mandi & Khajjiar 80 2½ 9am, 9.30am, 2.30pm, 4.30pm
Delhi 610-1380 14 3 daily
Dharamsala 170 5 7.15am, 11.50am, 1.15pm, 2pm
Pathankot 100 3 7 daily

Chamba

%01899 / Pop 20,000 / Elev 930m

Ensconced in the valley of the fast-flowing Ravi River, the capital of Chamba district is a beguiling old town with some beautiful temples, a good museum and bustling markets. Chamba was founded in AD 920 when Raja Sahil Varman moved his capital here from Bharmour, and it remained capital of the Chamba kingdom until the merger with India in 1947, though under British control from 1846.

Chamba's de facto centre is the large grassy field known as the Chowgan, a focus for festivals, cricket games, picnics and general hanging out.

1Sights

oLakshmi Narayan Temple ComplexHINDU TEMPLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; hdawn-dusk)

Standing in a compound at the top of the Dogra Bazar, this superb line of six beautiful stone sikharas, covered in carvings, dates from the 10th to the 19th centuries. The largest (and oldest) is dedicated to Lakshmi Narayan (Vishnu). Of the others, three are dedicated to versions of Shiva (recognisable by the statues of the bull Nandi, Shiva's vehicle, outside them) and two to Vishnu.

Bhuri Singh MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01899-222590; Museum Rd; Indian/foreigner ₹20/100, camera ₹50/100; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)

This well-displayed museum, one of Himachal's best, includes a wonderful collection of Pahari (Hill Country) miniature paintings from the Chamba and other schools. Also here are intriguing copper-plate inscriptions (formerly a way of preserving important documents) and ornately carved, centuries-old fountain slabs – a unique Chamba Valley tradition.

Other Temples

A steep 378 steps up from near the bus stand (or take a taxi), the Chamunda Devi Temple ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), dating from 1762, affords wonderful views over the town and valley. It's dedicated to a wrathful aspect of the mother goddess Devi, and its front mandapa (pavilion) features a forest of bells and rich ceiling carving. Just above the road about 500m north is the small, modern Sui Mata Shrine ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), with colourful paintings telling the tale of the Chamba queen Sui who gave her life to appease a water spirit that was causing a terrible drought. The queen-goddess is highly venerated by local women, and the four-day Sui Mata Mela is celebrated on the Chowgan in her honour each March or April.

About 600m further along the same road, a small roadside arch leads to the exquisite 12th-century sikhara-style Bajreshwari Devi Temple ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), dedicated to an incarnation of Durga. The very rich carving includes, on the rear wall, an image of Durga slaying the (minuscule-looking) giant Mahisasur and trampling on his buffalo.

By the Chowgan is the 11th-century Harirai Mandir ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), sacred to Vishnu. Three further finely carved sikhara temples are dotted around the narrow lanes above the Chowgan. The 10th-century Champavati Temple ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) was built by Raja Sahil Varman in honour of his daughter Champavati, who is worshipped locally as an incarnation of Durga; the 16th-century Bansi Gopal Temple ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) is dedicated to Krishna; and the 17th-century Sitaram Temple ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) is dedicated to Rama.

2Activities

Mani Mahesh TravelsTREKKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9816620401, 9418020401; www.orchardhuts.com; outside Lakshmi Narayan Temple Complex; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat)

Professional and experienced Mani Mahesh can arrange treks with guides and porters in and across the surrounding Pir Panjal and Dhauladhar ranges, as well as informative tours of Chamba’s temples (from ₹550). Treks cost ₹2000 to ₹2800 per person per day within the Chamba Valley, or ₹3500 to ₹4500 across the Pir Panjal or Dhauladhar passes, plus any transport costs.

It's run by the same family who run the excellent Orchard Hut. Ask about stays in their deliciously isolated Ridgemoor Cottage, three or four hours' walk (1000m higher) above Orchard Hut. Mani Mahesh also organises far-ranging jeep safaris and motorbike tours.

zFestivals & Events

Minjar FestivalCULTURAL

(hlast Sun Jul-1st Sun Aug)

Every year since 935, Chamba has celebrated the annual harvest with the Minjar Festival in honour of the deity Raghuvir (an incarnation of Rama) – nowadays a week of processions, sports, folk dance and music and a vast flea market on the Chowgan.

4Sleeping & Eating

Chamba HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01899-222564; Gopal Nivas; d ₹880-1210, ste ₹1650; W)

This creaky building, with fine views over the Ravi River from its balconies, is Chamba’s best budget bolthole. The six rooms are small and hard-bedded but quaint and well kept, with wood floors, giving it a homey cottage feel.

oOrchard HutHOMESTAY$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %9816620401; www.orchardhuts.com; Chaminu village; dm ₹400, r ₹560-2590; s)S

About 10km northeast of Chamba in the lovely Saal valley, this welcoming country house and organic farm is a wonderfully peaceful place to unwind amid the plum and apricot orchards. There's a range of super-clean, thoughtfully designed rooms for all budgets, the home-cooked meals (₹650 half-board per person) are superb, and staff can lead you on fine walks.

Sister company Mani Mahesh Travels in Chamba will arrange transfers, either by taxi (₹450) or public bus (₹25), to Chaminu village, from where it's a 20-minute uphill walk to the house. You'll thank yourself if you schedule an extra day or two here. Kitchen use is available for ₹100 per day.

Jamwal VillaHOMESTAY$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8894555246; www.jamwalvilla.com; Kuranh village; r ₹1500-1800; i)

In a beautiful spot beside the Ravi River, 10km southeast of Chamba, this is a charming little hideaway with ducks and rabbits in its pretty garden. The three appealing rooms feature tasteful modern art and individual touches including walls of river stones, and everything is very comfy and spotless. Excellent breakfast and dinner thalis of local dishes cost from ₹150.

Hotel City HeartHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01899-222032; www.hotelcityheartchamba.com; r ₹2600-3430, ste ₹3790-5450; aW)

Rooms here are spacious, clean and well decorated. The suites and some 'super deluxe' rooms have expansive Chowgan views, and the good restaurant does Continental and Chinese as well as Indian fare (mains ₹180 to ₹300).

Cafe Ravi ViewINDIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Chowgan; mains ₹95-225; h9am-10pm; a)

This HPTDC-run snack house is worth a visit for its icy-cold beers (₹150) and excellent river views as well as for its Indian and Chinese veg food – including dosas and bargain thalis (₹125 to ₹175).

It has a sunny terrace as well as indoor air-con.

Jagan RestaurantINDIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Museum Rd; mains ₹90-200; h11.30am-10.30pm)

It’s nothing flash but the uniformed waiters at this upstairs restaurant serve up the tasty chamba madhra (kidney beans with curd and ghee) for ₹110, plus a good selection of veg curries and chicken dishes.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

A mix of government-run HRTC and private buses runs to many destinations from the often crowded and chaotic bus stand ( GOOGLE MAP ). For the spectacular trip to Bharmour, sit on the left for the best views. For Dharamsala, if there's no direct bus soon, you can get one to Gaggal (₹230, five to seven hours) where buses leave every few minutes to Dharamsala (₹15, 40 minutes); for the best scenery try to get one going via Jot, over the 2772m Chuari Pass. The best Delhi service is the Volvo AC bus at 6pm.

Buses from Chamba

Destination Fare (₹) Duration (hr) Departures
Amritsar 277 7 11.15pm
Bharmour 95 3½ hourly 5am-5pm
Dalhousie via Banikhet 80 2½ 4 daily
Dalhousie via Khajjiar 80 2½ 4 daily
Delhi 675-1516 15 3 daily
Dharamsala 260-330 6-8 5 daily
Killar 260 12 6am Jul-Sep

Taxi & Jeep

Taxis at the Court Rd stand ( GOOGLE MAP ; Court Rd) ask around ₹1500 to Bharmour, ₹1800 to Dalhousie and ₹3500 to Dharamsala.

Most days from July to September there are shared jeeps (₹500) crossing the Sach Pass to Killar in the Pangi Valley – ask at Mani Mahesh Travels.

Bharmour

%01895 / Pop 2000 / Elev 2195m

Hovering on the edge of the seemingly bottomless Budil Valley, Bharmour is reached by a mountain road as scenic as it is perilous, winding 60km east of Chamba (it gets really interesting once you leave the Ravi Valley at Kharamukh). This ancient settlement was the area capital until replaced by Chamba in AD 920, and there are some beautiful old temples, though the main reason to come here is for treks to the surrounding valleys and passes. The villages around Bharmour are home to communities of seminomadic Gaddis, pastoralists who move their flocks to alpine pastures during the summer, and return here (or to the Kullu or Kangra Valleys) in winter.

1Sights & Activities

Chaurasi TemplesHINDU TEMPLE

(h6am-8.30pm)

The Chaurasi temples, 500m up the street from the bus stand, occupy a wide flagstone courtyard that doubles as an outdoor classroom and cricket practice ground. There are three main Shaivite temples, plus a couple of dozen smaller shrines (chaurasi means 84, seemingly an exaggeration). The central Manimahesh Temple is a classic stone sikhara, built in the 7th century AD. The squat Lakshna Devi Temple is of a similar date, with a weathered but wildly carved wooden doorway.

For the best valley views, hike 3km up from the Chaurasi entrance to the Brahmani Mata Temple above town. The route passes through the upper village, still full of traditional slate-roofed, wooden houses.

Trekking

The trekking season lasts from May to late October, though July and August see some monsoon rain. The many treks starting in the district include from Kugti to Jhalma in Lahaul over the 5040m Kugti Pass (five days); from Lamu in the Ravi Valley to McLeod Ganj over the 4420m Indrahar La (five days); and demanding longer treks via the isolated village of Bara Bhangal to Manali or Bir.

A popular shorter trek is to the sacred Manimahesh Lake, a two- or three-day return hike (about 13km each way, with an altitude difference of 2100m) starting at Hadsar, 13km east of Bharmour. It can be done without a tent thanks to the many dhabas en route. In the two weeks following Janmastami (Krishna's birthday; late August or early September), up to 300,000 pilgrims take this route in the Manimahesh Yatra (hlate Aug/early Sep) pilgrimage in honour of Lord Shiva, climaxing with a freezing dip in the lake. The whole Chamba Valley throngs with people travelling to or from the lake at this time.

Anna Adventures & Tours (%8894687758, 9805659622; www.bharmourtreks.com; Main Bazar) arranges a full range of treks in the Bharmour region and across the surrounding ranges. Ask for Gopal Chauhan.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel MahadevHOTEL$

(%9816544000; Main Bazar; r ₹400-1000; W)

Occupying three upstairs floors on the right of the street leading up to the Chaurasi Temples, Mahadev has rooms ranging from the dingy and windowless to large and bright (front rooms on the top floor).

Chaurasi HotelHOTEL$$

(%9418025004; http://hotelchourasi.in; Main Bazar; r ₹800-2000; W)

You can’t miss this red multistorey building up the street towards the Chaurasi Temples. Rooms are generous in size and many have soaring views; those in the new block at the side are generally in better condition. The restaurant (mains ₹70 to ₹190) is Bharmour's best, but it doesn't have much competition.

8Getting There & Away

Buses leave about hourly from 5.30am to 5.30pm for the rugged trip to Chamba (₹95, 3½ hours). Taxis charge ₹1500 to ₹2000; some go on a shared basis for ₹200 per person.

A bus to Dharamsala (₹450, 12 hours) departs at 5.30pm. A few daily buses head to Hadsar (₹35, one hour); there are also shared jeep-taxis for ₹30 per person. For buses up the Ravi Valley as far as Holi, take a Chamba-bound bus to Kharamukh and change there.

Lahaul & Spiti

The desolate northern and eastern tracts of Himachal Pradesh are among the most spectacular and sparsely populated regions on Earth. Crossing the Rohtang La from Manali, you arrive first in Lahaul's relatively green Chandra Valley. Head west down the Chandra then up the Bhaga Valley through Keylong (Lahaul's capital) and you're on the road to Ladakh. If you travel east up the Chandra Valley and over the Kunzum La into Spiti, you pass into the rain shadow of the Great Himalayan Range. Spiti is 7000 sq km of snow-topped mountains and high-altitude desert, punctuated by tiny patches of greenery and villages of whitewashed houses clinging to the sides of rivers and meltwater streams. As in Zanskar and Ladakh, Tibetan Buddhism is the dominant religion in both Spiti and Lahaul, though Hinduism is prominent in lower Lahaul. Some Lahauli temples encompass both religions.

History

Buddhism is believed to have arrived in Spiti and Lahaul during the 8th century AD with the legendary Indian sorcerer-sage-missionary Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche in Tibetan) who helped to spread Buddhism in Tibet. In the 10th century, upper Lahaul, Spiti, Zanskar and Ladakh were incorporated into the vast Guge kingdom of western Tibet, with Lahaul and Spiti eventually being ruled from Ladakh. The Great Translator, Ringchen Zangpo, founded a series of centres of Buddhist learning in Spiti in the late 10th and early 11th centuries, including Tabo, one of the most remarkable Buddhist monasteries in the Indian Himalaya.

The Kullu rajas took control of Lahaul in the 16th century and established a loose hold over Spiti in the 17th. The region came under British control following the 1846 Anglo-Sikh War, yet it maintained strong links with Tibet right up until the Chinese invasion there in 1950.

Recent decades have seen a resurgence in the region's cultural and religious life, aided by the work of the Tibetan government-in-exile in Dharamsala. Many gompas in Lahaul and Spiti have been restored, and money from tourism and hydroelectricity is improving living conditions for the farming communities who get snowed in here each winter.

Climate

Rainfall is minimal, especially in Spiti, and the high altitude ensures low temperatures. Winter temperatures can plummet below -30°C, but on the plus side, summer daytime temperatures often rise into the 20s, and when monsoons are soaking the rest of the state (mid-July to mid-September), it’s usually dry and sunny here. Whenever you travel, bring some clothing for cold weather.

8Getting There & Away

The road north from Manali over the Rohtang La (3978m) is normally open from about mid-May to early November. From the north side of the Rohtang you can head west to Keylong or east to Spiti.

From Keylong, the road to Ladakh continues over the mighty Baralacha La (4950m) and Taglang La (5328m) and is normally open from about early June to some time in October. The road to Spiti over the Kunzum La (4551m) is open from about mid-June to some time in November.

You can cross these passes by minibus, jeep, motorbike or bus, all of which can be arranged in Manali.

When the passes are closed, Lahaul is virtually cut off from the outside world, and Spiti is connected only by the rugged road from the south looping through Kinnaur. Check the status of the passes before visiting late in the season – once the snows arrive, you might be stuck for the winter! The websites www.bcmtouring.com and http://devilonwheels.com have updates.

Lahaul (but not Spiti or Ladakh) should be opened to year-round traffic from Manali when the tunnel bypassing the Rohtang La opens (possibly in 2018). The tunnel will run for 8.85km underneath the mountains from the Solang Valley, north of Manali, to Lahaul's Chandra Valley.

ROHTANG RULES

Anyone planning to drive or ride a motorcycle north over the Rohtang La from Manali must obtain a permit beforehand from the town's Sub-Divisional Magistrate's Office (SDM Office; GOOGLE MAP ; %01902-254100; behind HPTDC, The Mall; h10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun & 2nd Sat). The process normally takes about one hour and the permit is free (though some applicants have been asked for donations). Take your passport and driving licence and the vehicle's registration and pollution-under-check documents, and complete a form. You have to show your permit at a checkpoint at Gulaba on the way up to the pass.

The pass is closed on Tuesdays from 6am to all private northbound traffic, including taxis, to facilitate maintenance work. If you're through Gulaba before 6am, you can continue.

Southbound vehicles need no permit and can cross the pass any day of the week.

A different permit (₹550), issued online (www.hpkullu.nic.in), is required for vehicles just making a day trip from Manali to the pass and back. In practice it's usually very difficult for individual tourists to obtain these, and almost everyone making a Rohtang day trip does so by taxi.

Details of the Rohtang regulations change frequently. With any luck the opening of the Rohtang tunnel, possibly in 2018, will eliminate the permit requirement for those travelling to Lahaul or beyond.

Lahaul

Manali to Keylong

From Manali, Hwy 3 strikes north along the Beas River and climbs slowly through pine forests and endless switchbacks to the bare rocky slopes below the Rohtang La . The pass's name literally translates as ‘pile of dead bodies’ – hundreds of travellers have frozen to death here over the centuries. In the domestic tourist season, it's busy with day trippers from Manali enjoying the novelty of a snowball fight. Near the top, look out for the small, dome-shaped temple that marks the source of the Beas River.

Once over the pass, the road soon deteriorates as it makes the steep descent into the Chandra Valley, where the Chandra River rages along between towering rocky peaks ribboned with waterfalls plunging from high-level glaciers. After a zig-zagging 14km, Gramphu (four stone buildings) marks the turn-off to Spiti. Khoksar, in the valley bottom, has several dhabas and a checkpoint where police note down foreigners' passport details. The new tunnel bypassing the Rohtang La will join this road 7km west of Khoksar.

Tandi, 8km before Keylong, marks the confluence of the Chandra River with the Bhaga (together they become the Chandra-Bhaga). From the south end of the Bhaga bridge here you can walk 100m up to Tupchiling Gompa and ask there for the keys to Guru Ghantal Gompa , a further hour's walk uphill, which is the oldest monastery in Lahaul, allegedly founded by Padmasambhava. Although crumbling, the gompa contains ancient thangkas, a painted ceiling mandala, unusual wooden statues of Padmasambhava, other bodhisattvas and the Hindu deity Brajeshwari, and a black stone image of Kali.

Keylong

%01900 / Pop 1150 / Elev 3100m

Keylong stretches along the north side of the green Bhaga Valley just below the Manali–Leh road, and it’s an overnight stop for many travellers on that route. Many people only see Keylong briefly and in the dark, but a longer stay reveals grand mountain views, a laid-back, small-town lifestyle, some scenic walks and historic Buddhist monasteries.

The main street, optimistically named the Mall, winds for 1km below and roughly parallel to the highway, with the bus station (New Bus Stand) just above its east end.

1Sights & Activities

Lahaul-Spiti Tribal MuseumMUSEUM

(The Mall; h10am-1.30pm & 2-5pm Tue-Sun)F

At the west end of town, this semi-interesting museum displays traditional artefacts including chaam dance masks and a thod-pa (part of a skull formerly used by amchis or lamas to store healing or sacred liquids), plus historical photos and prints, and contemporary photos of local monasteries and villages.

Kardang GompaBUDDHIST MONASTERY

On concrete stilts facing Keylong across the valley, Kardang Gompa has existed for 900 years, but the current building dates from 1912. Maintained by an order of Drukpa Kagyu (Red Hat) monks and nuns, the monastery enshrines a mighty prayer wheel said to contain a million paper strips bearing the mantra Om mani padme hum ('Hail to the jewel in the lotus'). There are excellent frescos, but you may have to find a monk or nun to open the doors.

The monastery also has a large library of sacred texts and collections of thangkas, old weapons and musical instruments. To get here, head for the hospital at the bottom of the west end of Keylong and take a path down to the left 30m before the hospital. This crosses the River Bhaga on a footbridge, then climbs 1km to a road. Turn right into Kardang village and ask directions to the gompa, 800m further uphill. For a different route back, return to Kardang village then head to the right along the road for 3km to Lapchang village, where a path descends 1km to another footbridge, then climbs 1.25km to the main road. Keylong is 1.5km to the left.

Shashur GompaBUDDHIST MONASTERY

About 2km of uphill walking (or a 7km drive) above Keylong, Shashur Gompa was founded in the 17th century by the Zanskari lama Deva Gyatsho. The original gompa, featuring 5m-high thangkas, is now enshrined inside a modern concrete one, with fine views over the valley.

Brokpa Adventure ToursTREKKING

(%9418165176; brokpatrek@yahoo.com; Hotel Dupchen, The Mall; internet & wi-fi per hr ₹60; h9am-8pm May, Jun & Sep, 7am-10pm Jul & Aug)

For tips on day hikes or to arrange longer treks in the local area or over to Zanskar, talk to Amar here. The office also has public internet service.

4Sleeping & Eating

Most guesthouses and hotels are open only from about May to October. A couple of places up the street from the bus station have basic dorms for minimum-cost sleeping before early-morning bus departures.

Nordaling Guest HouseHOTEL$

(%01900-222294; www.nordalingkeylong.in; r ₹800-1500; hMay-Oct; W)

Just 100m above the bus station is this pleasant place with large, spotless rooms, and a relaxing restaurant (mains ₹80 to ₹180) in the apple orchard outside. It's an excellent choice and rates can drop steeply when things are quiet.

Hotel Tashi DelegHOTEL$$

(%01900-222450; hotel_tashideleg@yahoo.in; The Mall; r ₹1250-3050; hMay-Oct; W)

This big white hotel, towards the western end of the Mall, is Keylong’s nicest. Rooms in the new wing are large, with soft chairs, good showers and (mostly) balconies. The old wing is also fine, and cheaper (rates rise as you climb the floors).

The wi-fi is in the restaurant, which is Keylong's best, serving Indian, Chinese and Continental food (mains ₹100 to ₹220), plus cold beers.

Hotel New GyespaHOTEL$$

(%9418136055; r ₹1200-1800; hMay-Oct)

Only 20m up from the bus station, most of the clean, carpeted rooms here have views across the valley. Best are the spacious top-floor rooms, new in 2016. The hotel also possesses an attractive pine-panelled restaurant (mains ₹100 to ₹300). The affiliated, cheaper Hotel Gyespa (%9418133522; The Mall; r ₹800-1200; happrox May-Oct) is another worthy option and also has a restaurant. Both places offer discounts early and late in the season.

8Information

The State Bank of Patiala ATM (The Mall), opposite Hotel Dupchen, accepts international cards.

8Getting There & Away

From mid-June to mid-September, an HRTC bus departs for Leh (₹540, about 14 hours) at 5am – get tickets at the bus station between 4am and 4.30am. Privately operated minibuses and shared jeeps run until October, depending on snow conditions: one place you can book seats is Brokpa Adventure Tours. Seats cost between ₹1500 and ₹3000 (most expensive from June to August).

The HRTC also runs six or seven daily buses to Manali (₹173, seven hours, 4.30am to 1.30pm), one to Shimla (₹565, 16 hours, 1.30pm) and two to Delhi (₹850, 23 hours) from about mid-May to early November.

To Udaipur (₹85, three hours) in the Pattan Valley there are seven daily buses year-round. The 6.30am and 11am departures continue to Killar (₹210, 10 hours) from about mid-April to mid-November.

From about May to mid-November there are buses at 6.30am and 1pm to Chika (₹60, two hours) in the Darcha Valley, on the way up to the Shingo La pass into Zanskar. Services depend on road conditions in all cases.

For Kaza, take the 4.30am or 6.30am Manali-bound bus and change at Gramphu (₹75, 2½ hours), where the Manali–Kaza pulls in around 9am.

Pattan & Pangi Valleys

At Tandi, 8km southwest of Keylong, a road branches northwest along the beautiful, fertile, little-visited Pattan Valley, carved by the Chandra-Bhaga (Chenab) River. The river and road then curve northward into the Pangi Valley, even more beautiful and more remote (and often completely cut off from December to March). Snowy peaks rise above the many beautiful, steep-sided side valleys, climbing into the Pir Panjal range on the west and the Great Himalayan Range on the east, with demanding trekking routes crossing to the Chamba Valley and Zanskar respectively.

Probably the scariest of all Himachal's mountain roads continues along the Chenab valley from Pangi's only town, Killar, enabling intrepid travellers to make an epic 'K3' journey from Keylong to Killar to Kishtwar in Jammu & Kashmir.

1Sights & Activities

If you have time, explore some of the scenic side valleys, especially on the east side of the river – such as the Miyar Valley running up from Udaipur in the Pattan Valley, or the Saichu, Parmar, Hudan and Sural Valleys heading up from Pangi. The Hindu population lower down gives way higher up to Tibetan Buddhists known as Bots. There is daily bus service up most of these valleys from Udaipur or Killar.

Triloknath TempleTEMPLE

Some 36km down the Pattan Valley from Tandi, a side road leads 5km to the hilltop village of Triloknath, whose squat stone temple is a remarkable example of Hindu-Buddhist syncretism. The white-marble main idol is revered by Buddhists as Avalokitesvara, the bodhisattva of compassion, while Hindus worship it as Shiva. It’s a pilgrimage site for both religions, especially during the three-day Pauri Festival (h3rd week of Aug) honouring the temple deity.

Markula Devi TempleHINDU TEMPLE

(Udaipur)

In Udaipur, the Pattan Valley's largest village, the Markula Devi Temple looks plain on the outside but the inside is covered with fabulous, detailed wood carvings from the 11th to 16th centuries, including scenes from the Mahabharata and Ramayana around the top of the walls.

4Sleeping

Udaipur and Killar have a few small hotels, guesthouses and government rest houses that take tourists when space is available. Killar's Raj Hotel (%9418890045; Killar; r ₹1000-1500, ste ₹4500; hApr-Nov), two minutes' walk from the bus stand, is an unexpectedly clean and comfortable option with good views, and its restaurant (mains ₹70 to ₹200) is the only one in town with much choice. Two hairpins up from the bus stand (past the Raj Hotel), Killar Rest House (Killar; r from ₹500) has six well-kept rooms. It's unsigned but directly after the well-marked Senior Secondary School.

8Information

Udaipur and Killar have ATMs on their main streets.

8Getting There & Away

Udaipur has year-round bus connections with Keylong (₹85, three hours, seven buses daily). From about mid-April to mid-November two buses daily from Keylong continue to Killar (₹210 from Keylong, taking about 10 hours to cover the 125km). These stop at Udaipur at about 9.15am and 1.45pm. The route is dusty, bumpy and often as narrow as a ribbon but stunningly beautiful, with the road teetering along a series of precarious ledges high above the fast-flowing river for much of the last 50km into Killar. Buses back to Keylong leave Killar at 5am and 10am.

From Killar there's a road to Chamba over the Sach Pass (4390m), open from about late June to early October. In season a bus (₹260, about 12 hours) leaves Killar at 6.30am daily, and there are shared jeeps (₹500) between 7am and 9am.

For Kishtwar in Jammu & Kashmir, you’ll usually need to head first from Killar to Gulabgarh (53km) along one of India’s most perilous but scenic roads. For the intrepid only! The Luj–Tayari section bumps over bare rocks then along terrifyingly narrow ledges after Ishtiyari, sometimes overhung by daggers of unstable rock. Most days there’s likely to be a J&K jeep leaving Killar around mid-morning for Gulabgarh (₹300, four hours). Look around for vehicles with JK number plates. Chartering a jeep should cost ₹3000.

Spiti

Separated from fertile Lahaul by the soaring 4551m Kunzum La, the trans-Himalayan region of Spiti is another chunk of Tibet marooned in India. The scattered villages in this serrated moonscape arrive like mirages, clusters of whitewashed mud-brick homes huddled amid green barley fields below monasteries perched on crags a thousand feet above. The turquoise-grey ribbon of the Spiti River is your near-constant companion, running along a fairly broad valley before turning south at Sumdo into the precipitous gorges of the Hangrang Valley.

Spiti attracts many travellers, including streams of Indian motorcyclists, as a kind of 'mini-Ladakh without tourist crowds', which is fair enough, since its pristine nature (high-altitude desert) and culture (Tibetan Buddhist) are still intact. The approaches to Spiti remain among the most rugged and scenically spectacular roads in India, and the Spiti–Kinnaur loop is one of Asia's great road trips.

Gramphu to Kaza

From Gramphu, on the northern side of the Rohtang La, the road to Spiti runs up the awe-inspiring, glacier-carved Chandra Valley. One kilometre past tiny Batal, a rough but driveable track runs north up towards Chandratal (Moon Lake), a 2km-long glacial lake among snow peaks at 4270m, whose blue hue changes constantly following the moods of the sky. The track ends after 12km; a footpath runs the final 1km to the lake. You can break the journey in this inspiringly beautiful area at nearby tent camps. From Chandratal, trekkers can reach the Baralacha La on the Manali–Leh road in three strenuous but heavenly days.

The main road switchbacks precipitously up to the Kunzum La , where vehicles perform a respectful circuit of prayer-flag-strewn stupas before continuing down into Spiti. There's also a 10.5km walking trail down to Chandratal starting from the stupas.

The first Spitian village of any size is Losar, where there’s a passport check. From here the road follows the Spiti River downstream along its spectacular valley to Kaza.

4Sleeping

Tashi Gatsel HotelHOTEL$

(%9418931909; Losar; r ₹800-1000; hlate May-late Oct)

Tashi Gatsel, almost beside the Losar checkpoint, offers good clean rooms with big comfy beds and hot-water bathrooms, expansive views from its terrace, and Indian/Continental/Chinese food (mains ₹100 to ₹200).

Nomad's CottageGUESTHOUSE$$

(%9650824268; www.nomadscottage.in; Losar; s/d ₹1300/1900, without bathroom ₹1300/1500; hMay-Oct)

Has excellent rooms with wood-beam ceilings and big comfy beds, plus a cosy sitting area with a wood-burning stove and low tables where good breakfasts and Indian or Tibetan-Spitian dinners (₹300 to ₹400) are served.

Parasol CampsTENTED CAMP$$

(%9418845817; parasolcamps@gmail.com; Chandratal Camps; d tent with beds & full board ₹3000, with mattress & half-board ₹1600; hmid-Jun–mid-Oct)

One of the best Chandratal camps, Parasol provides cosy tents, good Indian meals (including garlic soup, good for altitude), sit-down toilets and buckets of hot water for washing.

Kaza

%01906 / Pop 1700 / Elev 3640m

The capital of Spiti, Kaza sits on the eroded flood plain of the Spiti River, with jagged mountains rising on either side, and is the biggest settlement you’ll encounter in this empty corner of the planet. It feels a bit like a small frontier town with an easygoing pace. The often-dry Kaza Nullah stream divides New Kaza (west of the nullah) from the bazaar area, Old Kaza, to the east. The bus and taxi stands are at the bottom of the bazaar.

Most people stay at least one night to arrange an inner line permit for travel beyond Tabo. Kaza is also the starting point for trips to Ki Gompa and the villages of Kibber, Langza, Hikkim, Komic and Demul, high on the east side of the valley, and a good place to organise treks and tours in or beyond Spiti.

2Activities

A few agencies run by highly experienced locals can set you up with treks, jeep safaris, day tours and other travel arrangements.

Incredible SpitiADVENTURE SPORTS

(www.incrediblespiti.com)

Incredible Spiti specialises in treks and motorbike and jeep tours. It's closely associated with Sakya Abode hotel, which also has wide-ranging travel and activities services, so can assist in organising almost anything you fancy.

Spiti Holiday AdventureTREKKING

(%9418638071; www.spitiholidayadventure.com; Main Bazar; hoffice 8.30am-9.30pm Mar-Nov)

Organises all-inclusive treks from two days upwards, as well as jeep tours and mountain-bike and motorbike rentals. It runs a number of fixed-departure trips, which individuals can join. It's a good place for travel information generally.

Spiti Valley ToursTREKKING

(%9418537689; www.spitivalleytours.com; Main Bazar; hoffice 8am-7pm Jun-Oct)

Treks, jeep tours, wildlife trips, mountaineering and more, with an emphasis on local homestay accommodation.

4Sleeping

Kunzaum Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$

(%9418521541; New Kaza; r ₹500, without bathroom ₹250; hApr-Oct)

A clean, friendly, family-run guesthouse whose best rooms are the three upstairs facing Kaza Nullah. It's just above the footbridge.

Butith Gangri Home StayHOMESTAY$

(%9459228510; tnguisem@gmail.com; New Kaza; r without bathroom ₹400; hMay-Oct)

The three rooms at this friendly family home are neat and spotless though beds are hard. The kitchen and dining room, shared bathrooms (hot water by bucket) and the courtyard, with pretty flowers, are equally pristine. It's close to Kaza Nullah, 90m down from the footbridge.

Ösel RoomsGUESTHOUSE$

(off Main Bazar, Old Kaza; s ₹800, d & tr ₹1000-1200; hApr-Nov)

Seven large, clean rooms with solar hot water above Taste of Spiti restaurant. It's run by Ecosphere: contact them for bookings.

oHotel DeyzorHOTEL$$

(%9418402660; www.hoteldeyzor.com; behind BSNL office, New Kaza; r ₹900-1750; hmid-Apr–mid-Nov; W)S

The bright, well-kept rooms have comfy beds and a cosy charm with ethnic fabrics and Spiti-theme photos. The owners are real Spiti enthusiasts, full of info, and can help arrange hikes, wildlife-spotting or fossil-hunting trips and more. And the restaurant is our favourite in Kaza. Not surprisingly the dozen rooms can fill up so it's advisable to book.

Sakya AbodeHOTEL$$

(%9418208987; www.sakyaabode.com; New Kaza; s ₹900-1300, d ₹1100-1500; hlate Apr-Nov; iW)

On the main road near the Sakya Gompa, this is Kaza's longest-running (since 1992) and one of its best-value hotels. Comfy rooms line shared terraces overlooking a grassy courtyard, and the Indian-Tibetan-Chinese restaurant (mains ₹100 to ₹250) is good – try the addictive 'copper Eliza' dessert! The hotel also offers full travel and activities services.

5Eating

Sol CafeCAFE$

(Main Bazar; hot drinks & snacks ₹50-110; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat May-Nov)S

This cool little cafe, operated by Ecosphere, offers super-strong coffee, herbal and other teas, and light dishes such as French toast, pancakes and wholewheat baked goods, as well as items showcasing sea-buckthorn, a berry with an amazing list of health-giving properties.

oHotel Deyzor RestaurantMULTICUISINE$$

(New Kaza; mains ₹100-350; h8am-10pm mid-Apr–mid-Nov)

The Deyzor restaurant does a great job on an eclectic range of dishes, doubtless partly inspired by the owner's own world travels. The menu ranges over Indian, Spitian (similar to Tibetan), Continental and beyond, with good, freshly prepared daily specials and an emphasis on seasonal local produce.

Himalayan CaféMULTICUISINE$$

(www.facebook.com/thehimalayancafe; off Main Bazar, Old Kaza; mains ₹100-350; h8am-10.30pm May-Oct; W)

The Himalayan, run by an escaped lawyer from Mumbai, takes the concept of bright, clean and cheerful to new levels for these parts and it's a big hit. The satisfying food runs from muesli with fresh fruit to momos, salads, pancakes and a full Indian range from aloo gobi to mutton rogan josh.

8Information

There's an internet cafe (per hr ₹80; h9am-7pm) opposite Shambhala Homestay in the bazaar, and an SBI ATM nearby.

8Getting There & Away

The bus to Manali (₹350, 11 hours) leaves at 6.30am, mid-June to mid-October; be there 30 to 60 minutes before to buy tickets. For Keylong, change at Gramphu (₹230, nine hours). A bus leaves for Rekong Peo (₹357, 11 hours) at 7.30am, going via Tabo (₹73, 2½ hours) and Nako (₹177, 5½ hours). There’s a second Tabo bus at 3pm.

Lhungta Traveller Union (%9418190083; opposite bus stand, Old Kaza) has fixed-rate taxis everywhere including to Dhankar (₹1550, 1½ hours), Tabo (₹2000, 1½ hours), Ki (₹700, 45 minutes), Keylong (₹10,000, eight hours) and Manali (₹10,000, eight hours). Most vehicles can take 10 or 11 passengers. For return trips with a one-hour wait, add 20%; for each extra hour, add ₹100 more. It also runs a shared jeep to Manali (₹1000) at 6am, approximately mid-June to October (when the passes are passable).

INNER LINE PERMITS IN KAZA

To travel between Sumdo in eastern Spiti and Rekong Peo (Kinnaur), foreign travellers need an inner line permit. These are issued free in around 20 minutes at the Assistant Deputy Commissioner’s Office (%8988384472; New Kaza; h10am-1.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, closed 2nd Sat) in New Kaza – a large white building diagonally opposite the Community Health Centre (hospital). Bring two passport photos and photocopies of your passport's identity and visa pages, plus application and permit forms (sold for ₹20 from the government canteen outside). Solo travellers have no problems getting permits here.

Around Kaza

The small, high-altitude villages on the east side of the Spiti valley (all well above 4000m) have a pristine, desolate beauty all their own – clusters of whitewashed, flat-roofed houses against a stark mountain backdrop with minimal vegetation except their carefully tended fields of barley and other crops. Several villages have seasonal guesthouses or homestays and interesting old temples or monasteries. You can visit them in day trips from Kaza but you can also stay over and take local walks – or trek between several of the villages along the homestay trek route, which links Langza, Komic and Demul with Lhalung and Dhankar – a great way to get a sense of the lifestyle of Spiti's amazingly resilient people.

A daily bus leaves Kaza for Ki (₹25, 30 minutes) and Kibber (₹34, 50 minutes), starting back from Kibber at 8.30am. But for the villages on the homestay trek route it's foot or taxi (unless you have your own wheels). The circuit from Kaza to Langza, Hikkim, Komic, Demul and back to Kaza is 70km and can be done in a one-day trip drive.

Ki

Pop 370 / Elev 3800m

About 12km northwest of Kaza, on the road to Kibber, tiny Ki is dominated by the whitewashed buildings of the photogenic Ki Gompa (h6am-7pm). Set atop a conical hillock, this is the largest gompa in Spiti, with around 350 senior and student monks. An atmospheric puja is held in the new prayer hall every morning around 8am. On request, the monks will open up the medieval prayer rooms, including the Zimshung Lhakhang, which houses a bed slept in by the Dalai Lama in 1960 and 2000. Dance masks and highly colourful costumes are brought out for Losar and the Ki Chaam Festival (Guitor Festival; hJul/Aug), a week long series of rituals seeking good fortune for the coming year, which culminates in a day of lively dancing by lamas to the sound of horns, percussion and deep-throated chanting – and free lunch for all present.

Kibber

%01906 / Pop 370 / Elev 4200m

Eight kilometres beyond Ki, this relatively large but still traditional village is the trailhead for the demanding eight- to 10-day trek over the 5578m Parang La to Tso Moriri lake in Ladakh (mid-July to mid-September), and also a good base to just stay in guesthouses and do local hikes.

The Kibber area is a good one for sighting Spiti wildlife including blue sheep, ibex, red fox and Himalayan griffon vulture. In winter it offers better-than-average prospects of sighting the ever-elusive snow leopard (best in March).

You can walk to the higher hamlets of Gete (about two hours, with small lakes nearby) or Tashigang (about three hours), where you can ask about the meditation cave with rock-carved Buddhist deities about 45 minutes further on. The peak Khanamo (5964m) is a fine two- or three-day round-trip trek (non-technical), best in August or the first half of September.

Several guesthouses and homestays offer rooms and meals. Most close from some time in October to March or April. Solar-powered Norling Home Stay (%9418556107; r ₹500-700, mains ₹90-140), overlooking most of the village, has some of the best rooms, dishes up excellent organic food and stays open all year. Norling Guest House (%9459662148; r ₹600-700, without bathroom ₹300; happrox Apr–mid-Sep) at the village entrance provides decent clean rooms and has a public restaurant with open terrace serving good Israeli, Continental and Indian food (mains ₹100 to ₹200).

THE HOMESTAY TRAIL

In one of India's most successful ecotourism programs, five mostly remote, high-altitude villages on the east side of the Spiti Valley (Langza, Komic, Demul, Lhalung and Dhankar) offer homestays in real village homes, giving a taste of authentic Spitian life. For ₹500 to ₹600 per night per person (including meals), visitors sleep in simple but clean traditional houses, eat home-cooked food and get the chance to experience village life. Hot water is normally by bucket and squat toilets are prevalent.

The villages are accessible by road but are also linked in a popular 'Homestay Trail' trekking route. Trained guides (per day ₹1000 to ₹2000) – not required but recommended – can accompany you between villages or on day hikes and explain about the culture and the unique natural environment. Wildlife-watching hikes offer the chance of spotting ibex, blue sheep (bharal) and possibly the Himalayan wolf (shanku), the world’s oldest wolf species.

It's a good example of how an area's tourism potential can be harnessed for the benefit of the local community. Some of the villages (at research time, Demul and Komic) operate a cooperative system with the families taking turns to host tourists; in the others the homestays operate individually. Either way, the program brings invaluable extra income into communities subsisting in extremely harsh natural conditions.

It's possible just to roll up in a village and ask for a homestay, or you can organise visits or treks through agencies including the Spiti conservation and development NGO Ecosphere (%9418860099; www.spitiecosphere.com; Main Bazar, Kaza; hoffice & shop 10am-7pm Mon-Sat Apr–mid-Dec), which was closely involved in setting up the homestay program. If you want a guide, it's definitely best to arrange this in advance.

Ecosphere also offers travellers numerous other activities including mountain-bike, culture or wildlife tours, yak safaris, cooking/pottery/yak-rope-twining classes, other multiday treks, and 'nun for a day' in Spiti's Buddhist convents. If you can get here in deep winter (February is best) and stay in high-altitude villages for seven to 10 days, Ecosphere offers a 90% chance of seeing snow leopards (₹2500 to ₹4000 per person per day).

Langza

Tiny Langza, a switchback 14km drive north of Kaza, sits at 4325m below the pointed 6300m peak of Chau Chau. A large modern medicine-Buddha statue stares across the valley from the top of the village; the temple behind it is around 500 years old. About a 2km walk away is an area rich in ammonite fossils around 100 million years old. Village men participate in a drunken horse race to Komic and back (or Komic to Langza and back, depending on the year) on a variable date in the first half of August, imbibing large amounts of local homebrews before, during and after the race.

Several of the village's 20 or so houses are homestays, typically charging ₹500 per person including three meals. Most have squat toilets (flushing or dry) and some have floor mattresses rather than beds. Have a look around to see which ones appeal.

There's no bus service. Taxis from Kaza cost ₹950/1140 one way/return.

Hikkim

Six kilometres south of Langza, a slight detour down from the road to Komic, little Hikkim is home to what's claimed to be the world's highest post office (h9am-5pm Mon-Sat), 4440m above sea level. Some spoilsports say the post office at Everest Base Camp in Tibet is higher (5200m) but this is almost certainly the highest in India! It's also a house, and customers are often offered a cup of tea. They may have postcards to sell, but it's an idea to bring some anyway.

It's possible to hike direct from Kaza to Hikkim up the Kaza Nullah in two or three hours – steeper and harder, but shorter, than the 15km road route.

Komic

A sign outside the monastery here proclaims Komic to be the highest motorable village in the world at 4587m. Santa Bárbara in Bolivia (4754m) would disagree, but Komic may well claim the Asian crown! The village comprises about 10 houses and, above them, the Tangyud Gompa , with about 50 lamas. The monastery's history goes back many centuries, but its fort-like main building was seemingly constructed after it relocated from near Hikkim following a 1975 earthquake. Pujas are offered at 8am to Mahakala, a wrathful emanation of Avalokitesvara. A smaller, older building nearby has a stuffed leopard (believed to impart strength to those who touch it) hanging inside the entrance: women are not permitted in its inner prayer room.

At research time most families in Komic were participating in a community homestay scheme, taking turns to host tourists for ₹600 per person including three meals, though one or two families were going it alone and asking ₹500. Ask for the homestay coordinator or find the Kunga Homestay (on the left as you go down), where he lives. Most houses have ecological dry pit toilets and hot water by bucket. Homestays operate from May to October.

Taxis from Kaza cost ₹1500/1800 one way/return. From Komic it's about a 16km walk south to Demul, the next village on the 'Homestay Trail', or 26km by road. Whether you walk or drive, you'll reach an altitude of nearly 4700m a couple of kilometres south of Komic; this is the best leg of the homestay trek for long-distance panoramas. It's also good for sightings of blue sheep.

Demul

One of the larger villages on the homestay route, with 280 inhabitants, Demul sits in a high valley surrounded by its vegetable fields and awesome mountain vistas. Its weavers make many of the colourful, patterned shawls worn by women throughout Spiti. Villagers lead a semi-nomadic existence, taking their cows and yaks off to summer pastures for four or five months each year.

Demul operates a fully cooperative homestay scheme, with families taking turns to host tourists for ₹600 per person including meals. Ask for the coordinator who will organise you a house to stay in.

The next leg of the homestay trek is a sharp descent to Lhalung, 600m lower to the east (trail only; not possible for vehicles). To the west, a dramatic road zig-zags down to the main Spiti Valley road at Lidang, 800m lower than Demul. Taxis from Kaza cost around ₹2000.

Pin Valley

Southeast of Kaza, the Spiti River is joined by the Pin River, flowing out of a wind-scoured but beautiful valley from the heights of the Great Himalayan Range. Geological strata tilted at all conceivable angles, including vertical, bear witness to the immense tectonic forces that created the world's mightiest mountains.

Mudh (3770m), 33km up the valley road from the highway, is the trailhead for the spectacular and demanding Pin–Parvati trek, and also for the easier but beautiful four-day trek over the 4850m Bhaba (Bawa) Pass to Kaphnu in Kinnaur, normally passable June to September. Mudh is a fine spot to ramble around for a couple of days, even if you're not trekking.

A short distance into either trek, you enter the 675-sq-km Pin Valley National Park, reputed as the ‘land of ibex and snow leopards’. You may well see ibex (and blue sheep).

Ugyen Sangnak Choling GompaBUDDHIST MONASTERY

At Kungri, 3km above Gulling, which is 16km up the valley, this 680-year-old monastery has a huge new building and three much more interesting medieval shrines, featuring blackened murals, festival masks and carved wooden snow lions. Women are not allowed past the threshold of two of them.

oTara HomestayGUESTHOUSE$

(%8988062293; www.facebook.com/taraguesthousespiti; Mudh; r ₹800, without bathroom ₹300-600, mains ₹60-110; hMay-Oct)

The excellent Tara Homestay is the pick of several guesthouses in Mudh, and its little restaurant serves up thalis, momos, omelettes and fried rice to all comers. Owner Sonam Gialson can arrange full treks with porters, and other tours including jeep safaris.

8Getting There & Away

The road into the Pin Valley branches off the Tabo road 15km southeast of Kaza. Mudslides at Kirgarang Nullah, 8km along, can block the road, sometimes for weeks, from some time in June, so take soundings before heading into the valley.

Buses to Mudh (₹82, two hours) leave Kaza daily at 4pm, starting back at 6am. Some days there's a shared jeep (₹100 per person) from Mudh to Kaza at about 6am, returning around 3pm. Kaza taxis charge ₹2100 to Mudh.

Dhankar

Pop 300 / Elev 3880m

High above the confluence of the Spiti and Pin Rivers, an 8km walk or drive up from Sichling on the Kaza–Tabo road, Dhankar village is the former capital of the Nono kings who ruled Spiti. Its old gompa is one of the most spectacular sights in Spiti.

1Sights

The spectacular 1200-year-old Dhankar Gompa (₹25; husually 7am-6pm) perches precariously between eroded pinnacles on the edge of a cliff. Its top-floor courtyard has a stuffed goat hanging above the stairwell, a room where the Dalai Lama slept, a meditation cave, and a shrine containing ceremonial masks. Another prayer hall, with murals of the Buddha of healing, stands on top of the rock above, accessed by separate concrete steps. The views from these buildings are phenomenal. Dhankar's lamas no longer inhabit the old gompa, having moved to the large, gleaming New Monastery , 800m away, in 2009.

On the hilltop above the gompa are the ruins of the abandoned mud-brick fort-palace that sheltered the valley's population during times of war and gave the village its name (khar means 'citadel' and dhak means 'cliff'). An hour’s steep walk up from the village, the small lake Dhankar Tso offers views over the valley and southeast to the twin peaks of Manirang (6593m).

4Sleeping & Eating

Dhankar Monastery GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

(%9418646578; dm ₹200, r ₹500-1200; hApr–mid-Oct, restaurant 7am-9.30pm)

Beside the New Monastery, this place belongs to the monastery but is geared to tourists. The rooms and terrace have picture-postcard views, and the restaurant prepares a wide choice of good food (mains ₹120 to ₹280).

Manirang Home Stay & CafeHOMESTAY$

(%8988053409; dm ₹150-200, r without bathroom per person incl half-board ₹500, incl full board ₹600; hcafe 7am-8pm)

Below the road between the old and new monasteries, Manirang has five pleasant, clean rooms and a dorm with floor mattresses, plus a cafe with an international menu (mains ₹60 to ₹120). Owner Anil Kumar is a trekking guide and has a jeep for transport.

8Getting There & Away

Buses between Kaza and Tabo pass through Sichling (₹40, one hour from Kaza); you might find a ride from Sichling. A taxi from Kaza to Dhankar is ₹1550/1860 one way/return.

Lhalung

Hidden up the Lingti Valley, 12km northeast of Dhankar along a fairly level dirt road, the charming traditional village of Lhalung is worth a detour for its fantastic medieval monastery (₹25). The atmospheric main chapel contains superb old murals and an incredibly ornate, carved, wooden back frieze. The separate Langkharpo chapel holds a unique four-sided statue of the white deity atop a plinth of snow lions. Don't miss the skin prayer wheel in a side chapel.

The village has several homestays charging around ₹600 per person including meals, which you can arrange on the spot or through agencies including Ecosphere.

A bus to Lhalung (₹43, two hours; not via Dhankar) leaves Kaza at 5.30pm, coming back at 8am the next day.

Tabo

%01906 / Pop 600 / Elev 3280m

Little Tabo, in a dramatic valley setting hemmed in by scree slopes, 48km southeast of Kaza, is the only other town in Spiti. The mud-brick walls of Tabo Gompa enclose some of the finest of all Indo-Tibetan art, and Tabo makes a fine place to kick back for a couple of days.

1Sights

oTabo GompaBUDDHIST MONASTERY

(www.tabomonastery.com; donations accepted; hshrines 9am-1pm & 2-5pm)

The gompa was founded in AD 996, possibly by Ringchen Zangpo, the Great Translator, as Tibet's Guge kingdom expanded into these outlying territories, and is reckoned to be the oldest continuously functioning Buddhist monastery in India. Five of the nine shrines inside its mud-walled buildings date from the 10th and 11th centuries, when they were painted by some of the best Buddhist muralists of their era, blending Tibetan, Indian and Kashmiri styles. Bring a torch as lighting is dim.

The other shrines mostly date from the 15th to 17th centuries. While the old gompa is still used for some monastic activities, most of the monastery's life today goes on in the modern gompa beside the ancient compound.

The old gompa's spectacular main assembly hall, the Tsuglkang, is entered through the Zal-ma antechamber. Large sculptures of four blue protector deities (one for each compass point) flank the Tsuglkang's doorway (two inside, two outside), and its walls are lined with stunning, near life-size clay sculptures of 28 bodhisattvas. The hall's focus is a statue of a four-bodied Vairochana Buddha turning the wheel of law – the whole room being a 3D representation of the Vajradhatu mandala, which has the Vairochana at its centre. Murals below the bodhisattvas depict 10th-century life. Behind the Vairochana, the inner sanctuary holds a stucco Amitabha Buddha and two smaller bodhisattvas. The ambulatory behind that is adorned with hundreds of small and large lotus-position figures.

You may have to ask a lama to open up other temples in the compound. The other worthwhile early temples are the Ser-Khang (Golden Temple), second to the left from the Tsuglkang, with outstanding murals on its north wall of the green Tara and the goddess Usnishavijaya; the Kyil-Khang (Mystic Mandala Temple) behind the Ser-Khang, with a Vairochana mural facing the entrance and mandalas depicting deities surrounded by eight other deities on the north and south walls; and the Byams-Pa Chen-po Lha-Khang (Bodhisattva Maitreya Temple), immediately right of the Tsuglkang, with a 3m-high statue of the Maitreya (future Buddha).

The modern gompa outside the ancient compound has a sparkling gilded chorten and a brand-new temple, and holds a well-attended puja at 6am (guests welcome).

CavesCAVE

A number of caves on the hillside above the main road were part of the old monastery complex – a 200m walk starting up the steps opposite the Vijay Kumar shop.

4Sleeping & Eating

oTashi Khangsar HotelGUESTHOUSE$

(%9418817761; vaneetrana23@gmail.com; r ₹600-800, camping per tent ₹200; hApr-Oct)

The four bright, clean, inviting rooms here are set beside an expansive, grassy garden where table and chairs sit beneath a large parachute canopy. There's good international food at decent prices, and plenty of camping space, and the relaxed, friendly vibe makes it a great spot to chill out for a night or a few.

From the new monastery's gate, head towards the river and turn right at the helipad.

Tiger DenGUESTHOUSE$

(%9459349711; naveen.chauhan82@gmail.com; r ₹900-1200; hApr-Oct)

Almost next to the new monastery's entrance, this is a fine choice with clean, pink, medium-sized rooms with hot showers.

Also here is one of Tabo's best restaurants (mains ₹120-300; h7am-10pm Apr-Oct), with indoor and outdoor seating, and a great range of Indian, Tibetan and traveller food, plus delectable chilled apple juice.

Sonam HomestayGUESTHOUSE$

(%9418503966; www.prospiti.ch; s/d ₹800/1000, r without bathroom ₹400-500; hMay-Oct)S

Rooms here are some of the best value in Tabo: neat and clean, with solar-heated water. The locally born owner also runs his own travel and trekking firm.

Also here is the good Cafe Kunzum Top (Sonam Homestay; mains ₹100-150; h7am-9.30pm), serving up tasty Tibetan, Spitian, Indian and Continental dishes, and good coffee, in its sunny garden and cosy interior.

Dewachen RetreatHOTEL$$$

(%9459566689; www.dewachenretreats.com; s/d ₹4320/4800, incl half-board ₹5490/6100; hmid-Apr–mid-Nov)

The impressiveness of the carved wooden doorway doesn't quite extend inside, but the pine-panelled rooms, with good tiled bathrooms and temple and mountain views, are Tabo's nearest thing to luxury. It's on the main road at the back of town, and is sometimes full with groups. The good restaurant is open to all.

8Information

There's an SBI ATM near the new monastery's gate.

8Getting There & Away

Buses to Kaza (₹73, 2½ hours) pass through Tabo around 9am (coming from Chango) and 3pm (coming from Rekong Peo, so its time is pretty variable). There’s a daily bus to Rekong Peo (₹270, nine hours) at 9am or 10am, via Nako (₹105, three hours), but since this originates in Kaza, it can be packed, especially in May and October when seasonal workers are on the move.

Taxis charge around ₹1900 to Kaza, ₹1600 to Dhankar, ₹1900 to Nako and ₹6000 to Rekong Peo.