Uttar Pradesh
Uttar Pradesh Highlights
Varanasi
Sarnath
Gorakhpur
Kushinagar
Sunauli & the Nepal Border
Lucknow
Ayodhya & Around
Allahabad
Western Uttar Pradesh
Mathura
Vrindavan
Uttar Pradesh
Why Go?
There are few states more quintessentially Indian than Uttar Pradesh. The subcontinent's historic and religious roots – Hindu, Buddhist, Islamic and secular – intertwine in this land of sacred rivers and vast plains, manifesting in sights of profound importance.
Aside from iconic Agra, UP is home to Varanasi, India's holiest city, famed for its cremation ghats and vibrant ceremonies along the Ganges River. Stories tell us that Krishna was born in Mathura, while Rama was born in Ayodhya – a place of tragic conflict in modern times that reveals much about the shadow side of the collective Indian psyche. Buddha gave his first sermon in Sarnath and died in Kushinagar, now tranquil pilgrimage destinations. And the Mughals and the Nawabs made their marks as well, leaving behind architectural and gastronomic masterpieces – particularly in Lucknow (and of course Agra). UP offers more than enough to satisfy the senses – and curiosities – of any traveller.
When to Go
Amid-Sep–Oct Monsoon rains are mostly over and temperatures have cooled…just enough.
ANov–Feb Comfortable winter days and nippy nights means it's cool but overcrowded.
AMar With evening chills subsided and raging midsummer heat still at bay, some say it's perfect.
Uttar Pradesh Highlights
1 Varanasi Having your mind blown in India as you've always imagined it, with sacred ghats along the Ganges and a maze of alleyways with surprises around every corner.
2 Lucknow Eating in the kebab capital of India, then strolling among impressively ornamented Mughal architecture.
3 Sarnath Roaming the peaceful park where Buddha delivered his first sermon.
4 Allahabad Joining 100 million devotees who converge at the confluence of two (or three) sacred rivers during the Kumbh Mela.
5 Chitrakut Experiencing Hindu devotions on a less overwhelming scale at this laid-back riverside town.
6 Vrindavan Temple-hopping at this spiritual centre and international home of the Hare Krishnas.
7 Ayodhya Veering off the beaten path to Lord Rama's mythic birthplace.
History
More than 2000 years ago this region was part of Ashoka’s great Buddhist empire, remnants of which can be found in the ruins at the pilgrimage centre of Sarnath near Varanasi. Muslim raids from the northwest began in the 11th century, and by the 16th century the region was part of the Mughal empire, with its capital in Agra, then Delhi and, for a brief time, Fatehpur Sikri.
Following the decline of the Mughal empire, Persians stepped in briefly before the Nawabs of Avadh rose to prominence in the central part of the region, notably around the current capital of Lucknow. The Nawabs were responsible for turning Lucknow into a flourishing centre for the arts, culture and culinary delights, which continues to this day. But their empire came to a dramatic end when the British East India Company deposed the last nawab, triggering the First War of Independence (Indian Uprising) in 1857. During the 147-day Siege of Lucknow, British Chief Commissioner Sir Henry Lawrence was killed defending the British Residency, which remains in remarkable preservation in Lucknow.
Agra was later merged with Avadh and the state became known as United Province. It was renamed Uttar Pradesh after Independence and has since been the most dominant state in Indian politics, producing half of the country’s prime ministers, most of them from Allahabad (locus of the Nehru/Gandhi dynasty). The people of UP don't seem to have benefited much from this, though, as poor governance, a high birth rate, a low literacy rate and an erratic electricity supply have held back the state's economic progress over the past 70 years.
In 2000, the mountainous northwestern part of the state was carved off to create the new state of Uttaranchal, now called Uttarakhand.
Varanasi
%0542 / Pop 1.4 million
Varanasi is the India of your imagination. One of the most colourful and fascinating places on earth, surprises abound around every corner.
This is one of the world's oldest continually inhabited cities, and one of the holiest in Hinduism. Pilgrims come to the ghats lining the Ganges to wash away sins in the sacred waters or to cremate their loved ones. It's a particularly auspicious place to die, since expiring here offers moksha (liberation from the cycle of rebirth).
Most visitors agree Varanasi is magical – but not for the faint-hearted. Intimate rituals of life and death take place in public, and the sights, sounds and smells on the ghats – not to mention almost constant attention from touts – can be intense. Still, the so-called City of Light may turn out to be your favourite stop of all. Walking the ghats and alleyways or watching sunrise from a boat can be unforgettable.
History
Thought to date back to around 1200 BC, Varanasi really rose to prominence in the 8th century AD, when Shankaracharya, a reformer of Hinduism, established Shiva worship as the principal sect. The Afghans destroyed Varanasi around AD 1300, after laying waste to nearby Sarnath, but the fanatical Mughal emperor Aurangzeb was the most destructive, looting and destroying almost all of the temples.
The old city of Varanasi may look antique, but few buildings are more than a couple of hundred years old. Rajas and other wealthy families from around India built palaces and mansions along the ghats to be close to the sacred river; most of these are now in states of serious disrepair, though a few have been bought by hotel companies and renovated into something resembling their previous glory.
Varanasi
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
1Sights
oVishwanath TempleHINDU TEMPLE
(Golden Temple; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h3am-11am, 12.30-8pm & 9-11pm)
There are temples at almost every turn in Varanasi, but this is the most famous of the lot. It is dedicated to Vishveswara – Shiva as lord of the universe. The current temple was built in 1776 by Ahalya Bai of Indore; the 800kg of gold plating on the tower and dome was supplied by Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Lahore 50 years later.
The area is full of soldiers because of security issues and communal tensions. Bags, cameras, mobile phones, pens and any electronic device must be deposited in lockers (₹20) before you enter the alleyway it’s in – or just leave your stuff at your hotel. Though accounts vary as to whether or not foreigners can go in the temple itself, we found it to be fairly straightforward: Head to Gate 2 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), where security will instruct you to walk past the long lines of Indians waiting in the queue, then go through a metal detector and security check. Walk past another line of Indians until you are pointed to a desk, where you must show your passport (not a copy) and leave your shoes. Then enter the temple through a door across the alley.
Once inside, things can be quite intense, with people pushing and tripping over each other for a chance to give an offering and touch the lingam (phallic symbol of Shiva), which absolves one of all sins. At other times, it's much more peaceful. Hindus routinely wait in lines for 48 hours to enter on particularly holy days.
On the northern side of Vishwanath Temple is the Gyan Kupor Well (Well of Knowledge; MAP GOOGLE MAP ). The faithful believe drinking its water leads to a higher spiritual plane, though they are prevented from doing so by a strong security screen. Non-Hindus are not allowed to enter here, and the rule is strictly enforced.
Benares Hindu UniversityUNIVERSITY, HISTORIC SITE
(BHU; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bhu.ac.in)
Long regarded as a centre of learning, Varanasi’s tradition of top-quality education continues today at Benares Hindu University, established in 1916. The wide, tree-lined streets and parkland of the 5-sq-km campus offer a peaceful atmosphere a world away from the city outside. On campus is Bharat Kala Bhavan ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Indian/foreigner ₹10/150; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri), a roomy museum with a wonderful collection of miniature paintings, as well as 12th-century palm-leaf manuscripts, sculptures and local history displays.
Ghats
Spiritually enlightening and fantastically photogenic, Varanasi is at its brilliant best by the ghats, the long stretch of steps leading down to the water on the western bank of the Ganges. Most are used for bathing but there are also several ‘burning ghats’ where bodies are cremated in public. The main one is Manikarnika: you’ll often see funeral processions threading their way through the backstreets to this ghat.
The best time to visit the ghats is at dawn, when the river is bathed in a mellow light as pilgrims come to perform puja (prayers) to the rising sun, and at sunset when the main ganga aarti (river worship ceremony) takes place at Dashashwamedh Ghat.
About 80 ghats border the river, but the main group extends from Assi Ghat, near the university, northwards to Raj Ghat, near the road and rail bridge.
A boat trip along the river provides the perfect introduction, although for most of the year the water level is low enough for you to walk freely along the whole length of the ghats. It’s a world-class ‘people-watching’ stroll as you mingle with the fascinating mixture of people who come to the Ganges not only for a ritual bath but also to wash clothes, do yoga, offer blessings, sell flowers, get a massage, play cricket, wash their buffaloes, improve their karma by giving to beggars or simply hang around.
Southern Stretch
oAssi GhatGHAT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The furthest south of the main ghats and one of the biggest, Assi Ghat is particularly important as the River Assi meets the Ganges near here and pilgrims come to worship a Shiva lingam (phallic image of Shiva) beneath a peepul tree. Evenings are particularly lively, as the ghat’s vast concreted area fills up with hawkers and entertainers. There's also music and yoga at sunrise. It’s a popular starting point for boat trips and there are some excellent hotels here.
Tulsi GhatGHAT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Named after a 16th-century Hindu poet, Tulsi Ghat has fallen down towards the river, but in the month of Kartika (October/November) a festival devoted to Krishna is celebrated here.
Shivala GhatGHAT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
A small Shiva temple and a 19th-century mansion built by Nepali royalty sit back from Shivala Ghat, built by the local maharaja of Benares.
Hanuman GhatGHAT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Popular with Rama devotees (Hanuman was Rama's stalwart ally in his quest to rescue Sita from the demon Ravana).
oHarishchandra GhatGHAT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Harishchandra Ghat is a cremation ghat – smaller and secondary in importance to Manikarnika, but one of the oldest ghats in Varanasi.
Kedar GhatGHAT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
A colourful ghat with many steps and a small pool, where a fire aarti is held every evening at 6.30pm.
The Old City & Assi Ghat Area
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
Transport
Old City Stretch
oDashashwamedh GhatGHAT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Varanasi’s liveliest and most colourful ghat. The name indicates that Brahma sacrificed (medh) 10 (das) horses (aswa) here. In spite of the oppressive boat owners, flower sellers, massage practitioners and touts trying to drag you off to a silk shop, it’s a wonderful place to linger and people-watch while soaking up the atmosphere. Every evening at 7pm an elaborate ganga aarti (river worship) ceremony with puja (prayers), fire and dance is staged here.
It's easily reached at the end of the main road from Godaulia Crossing.
Man Mandir GhatGHAT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Just north of Dashashwamedh Ghat, Man Mandir Ghat was built in 1600 by Raja Man Singh, but was poorly restored in the 19th century. The northern corner of the ghat has a fine stone balcony.
oManikarnika GhatGHAT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Manikarnika Ghat, the main burning ghat, is the most auspicious place for a Hindu to be cremated. Dead bodies are handled by outcasts known as doms, and are carried through the alleyways of the Old City to the holy Ganges on a bamboo stretcher, swathed in cloth. The corpse is doused in the Ganges prior to cremation.
Huge piles of firewood are stacked along the top of the ghat; every log is carefully weighed on giant scales so that the price of cremation can be calculated. Each type of wood has its own price, sandalwood being the most expensive. There is an art to using just enough wood to completely incinerate a corpse. You can watch cremations but always show reverence by behaving respectfully. Photography is strictly prohibited. You’re almost guaranteed to be led by a priest, or more likely a guide, to the upper floor of a nearby building from where you can watch cremations taking place, and then asked for a donation (in dollars) towards the cost of wood. If you don’t want to make a donation, don’t follow them.
Above the steps here is a tank known as the Manikarnika Well. Parvati is said to have dropped her earring here and Shiva dug the tank to recover it, filling the depression with his sweat. The Charanpaduka, a slab of stone between the well and the ghat, bears footprints made by Vishnu. Privileged VIPs are cremated at the Charanpaduka, which also has a temple dedicated to Ganesh.
Dattatreya GhatGHAT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Dattatreya takes its name from a Brahmin saint, whose footprint is preserved in a small temple nearby.
Scindhia GhatGHAT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Scindhia Ghat was originally built in 1830, but was so huge and magnificent that it collapsed into the river and had to be rebuilt.
Northern Stretch
Ram GhatGHAT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
North from Scindhia Ghat, Ram Ghat was built by a maharaja of Jaipur.
Panchganga GhatGHAT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Just beyond Ram Ghat, this ghat marks where five holy rivers are supposed to meet.
Alamgir MosqueMOSQUE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Dominating Panchganga Ghat, this small mosque was built by Aurangzeb on the site of a large Vishnu temple.
Trilochan GhatGHAT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
At Trilochan, two turrets emerge from the river, and the water between them is especially holy.
THE VARANASI SHAKEDOWN
ADon’t take photos at the ‘burning’ ghats and resist offers to ‘follow me for a better view', where you’ll be pressured for money and possibly be placed in an uncomfortable situation.
ADo not go to any shop with a guide or autorickshaw driver. Be firm and don't do it. Ever. You will pay 40% to 60% more for your item due to insane commissions, and you'll also be passively encouraging this practice. Do yourself a favour and walk there, or have your ride drop you a block away.
AImposter stores are rampant in Varanasi, usually spelled one letter off or sometimes exactly the same. The shops we have recommended are the real deal. Ask for a visiting card (ie business card) – if the info doesn't match, you have been had.
AWhen negotiating with boatmen, confirm the price and currency before setting out. Many just love to say '100!' and then at the end claim they meant dollars or euros.
ADo not book unofficial guides, which are whom most guesthouses hire. If you want a guide, go through UP Tourism to avoid most of the hassles above. If not, have fun shopping!
ABe wary of bhang lassis – these are made with hash (degraded cannabis) and can be very strong if that's not what you're looking for (we've heard reports of robberies of intoxicated people).
ABeware of fake 'yoga teachers' who are mainly interested in hands-on lessons with young women.
2Activities
It's worth an early rise for two of your mornings in Varanasi, one to take in the action on a river-boat trip and another to experience the hubbub of activity on the ghats themselves. Nonguests can use the outdoor swimming pools at Hotel Surya for ₹300 and Hotel Clarks Varanasi ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; The Mall; nonguests ₹500; h9am-6pm).
DarkLotusYOGA
Taking yoga out of the studio and around the sacred sites of Varanasi, these highly recommended classes are set along the river and at temples around the city. Contact through the website for courses and prices.
Aarna SpaMASSAGE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-2508465; www.hotelsuryavns.com; Hotel Surya, S-20/51A-5 The Mall Rd; massage from ₹1400; h8am-8pm)
Hotel Surya's spa is a nice choice for soothing ayurvedic massages.
Swasthya VardhakAYURVEDA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-2312504; www.swasthyavardhak.in; Assi Crossing; h8am-7.30pm)S
Varanasi is full of ayurvedic imposters. Serious seekers should come here, the city's real-deal ayurvedic pharmacy. Consultations with a doctor are free (from 9am to noon and 5pm to 7.30pm); prescriptions run from ₹20 to ₹2000. Additionally, it works with a government initiative that encourages struggling local farmers to turn over a new leaf planting ayurvedic herbs.
TOP STATE FESTIVALS
Magh Mela (Allahabad; hJan/Feb) A huge annual religious fair that transforms into the world's largest human gathering, the Kumbh Mela, every 12th year (next in 2025).
Holi Perhaps the world's most colorful festival. Prepare to be powdered!
Purnima (hApr or May) Buddha's birthday party.
Janmastami Krishna's birthday party.
Dev Diwali (Ganga Diwali; Varanasi; hNov) A festival of light in the 'City of Light'.
Ram Lila ( GOOGLE MAP ; Varanasi; hSep/Oct) The dramatic retelling of Lord Rama's quest to reclaim his wife, Sita, from the demon Ravana.
1Volunteering
Learn for Life SocietyVOLUNTEERING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-2390040; www.learn-for-life.net; D55/147 Aurangabad)
This small charity, run by two foreigners and contacted through Brown Bread Bakery, supports a unique school for disadvantaged children and a women’s empowerment group, offering fairly paid work to local women. While there are some opportunities for short-term volunteers, volunteering in a classroom requires a commitment of at least a few months.
CCourses
Pragati HindiLANGUAGE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9335376488; www.pragatihindi.com; B-7/176 Harar Bagh)
Readers recommend the flexibility of the one-to-one classes taught here by the amiable Rajeswar Mukherjee (Raju). Private classes start from ₹300 per hour. Call ahead, or just drop in to meet Raju and arrange a schedule. Walk up the stairs opposite Chowki Ghat and take the first left, following the 'Hindi' signs.
International Music Centre AshramMUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9415987283; tablateeteteete@gmail.com; D33/81 Khalishpura; per class ₹400)
This family-run centre is hidden in the tangle of backstreets off Bengali Tola. It offers sitar, tabla, flute and classical-dance tuition, and performances are held every Saturday and Wednesday evening at 8pm (₹150). There’s a small, easy-to-miss sign on Bengali Tola directing you here.
International CentreLANGUAGE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-2368130; www.bhu.ac.in; C/3/3 Tagore House; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat)
If you’re interested in studying at Benares Hindu University, contact this centre. Courses on offer include Hindi, Sanskrit and yoga, among others.
Yoga Training CentreYOGA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9919857895; www.yogatrainingcentrevaranasi.in; 5/15 Sakarkand Gali; 2hr class group/private ₹300/800, reiki from ₹800; h8am, 10am & 4pm)
Former army clerk and yoga master Sunil Kumar and partners run set classes four times a day on the 2nd and 3rd floors of this small backstreet building near Meer Ghat (but you can drop in anytime for a session).
He teaches an integrated blend of hatha, shivananda, satyananda, pranayama and Iyengar, and serious students can continue on certificate and diploma courses in both yoga and reiki.
TTours
If time is short, UP Tourism can arrange guided tours by taxi of the major sites, including a 5.30am boat ride and an afternoon trip to Sarnath.
oVaranasi WalksWALKING
(%9793714111; www.varanasiwalks.com; tours ₹1000-1600)S
The cultural walks on offer from this agency specialising in themed walks explore beyond the most popular ghats and temples, giving eye-opening insight into this holy city. The American founder, Jai, has lived in Varanasi for years, and most of the guides were born and raised here. Walks are available by reservation, booking online or by phone.
4Sleeping
Most of Varanasi’s budget hotels – and some midrange gems – are tucked among the narrow streets off the ghats. There’s a concentration around Assi Ghat; others are in the bustling alleys of the Old City, between Scindhia and Meer Ghat. To experience local life, stay in a guesthouse.
For five-star luxury, there are some great choices in the neighborhoods west of the river, such as Bhelpura, Aurangabad Rd and Cantonment.
Old City Area
Brown Bread Bakery GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-2450472, 9838888823; www.brownbreadbakery.com; Bengali Tola, Pandey Ghat; s without bathroom ₹250, with AC or heater ₹750, d with/without AC or heater from ₹1200/750; aW)
With the cleanest budget rooms in Varanasi, this well-run guesthouse is one of the best deals in town. Bonus: it shares space with the excellent restaurant of the same name and offers the best deals around on reliable sunrise boat tours – you can even arrange for breakfast on your boat! A two-minute walk from Pandey Ghat.
Hotel AlkaGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-2401681; www.hotelalkavns.com; 3/23 Meer Ghat; r ₹1200, with AC ₹1800-6300, without bathroom ₹700; aiW)
This excellent ghat-side option could use an attentive eye on its exteriors, but the pretty much spotless rooms – either opening onto, or overlooking, a large, plant-filled courtyard over the Ganges – draw the lion's share of care here. In the far corner, a terrace juts out over Meer Ghat for one of the best views in all of Varanasi, a view shared from the balconies of eight of the pricier rooms.
BunkedUp HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-2450508; www.bunkeduphostels.com; off Bengali Tola; dm with/without AC ₹460/360, r with/without AC ₹1500/1000; aW)
This brand-new hostel aims to please, with a couple of mixed-gender dorm rooms and a women-only dorm, plus some private rooms. The rooftop cafe has great views of the river, and there's a movie theatre in the basement. Currently, it's the only hostel in the Old City.
oGanpati GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-2390057; www.ganpatiguesthouse.com; 3/24 Meer Ghat; r ₹1300-5630; aiW)
This old red-brick favourite has a pleasant, shaded courtyard as well as plenty of balcony space dotted around offering fine river views. Rooms are clean, brightly painted from the ceilings down and feature tasteful framed wall hangings and modern bathrooms. The best have private river-view balconies.
The least expensive rooms – very much budget offerings – are in an annexed building down the alley, which lacks the ambience of the main guesthouse. Be very wary of the aggressive monkeys!
HomestayHOMESTAY$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9415449348; www.homestayvaranasi.in; 61/16 Sidhgiri Bagh; s ₹2300-2800, d ₹2500-3000; aiW)
This homestay in a 1936 colonial home in a residential neighborhood 1.5km from the Old City back alleys is a true catch. Good-hearted host Harish, a 30-year veteran of the textile industry (well-regarded, fixed-price shop on premises) has six exquisitely maintained deluxe and enormous super-deluxe rooms that are shielded from light, noise and mosquitoes. You'll truly appreciate the rest.
His wife, Malika, whips up exquisite home-cooked meals and has been known to give impromptu cooking classes. If you don't mind being a bit away from the heart of the action, it's a delightful choice.
KedareswarHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-2455568; www.kedareswarguesthouse.com; B14/1 Chowki Ghat; r ₹1840, with river view ₹3680, all incl breakfast; aW)
Housed in a brightly painted aquamarine-green building, this friendly six-room place has cramped but immaculate rooms with sparkling bathrooms. Breakfast is served on the rooftop when it's not too hot or rainy. It's popular, so you'll want to book ahead.
Rashmi Guest HouseHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-2402778; www.rashmiguesthouse.com; 16/28A Man Mandir Ghat; r incl breakfast ₹3200-6900; aiW)
Incense-scented, white-tile corridors and marble staircases lead to a variety of cramped but smart rooms boasting high marks for cleanliness and style. Many have artistically patterned walls and views of Man Mandir Ghat. Dolphin, the hotel's rooftop restaurant, is a fine place for a beer-chased evening meal and one of the Old City's few nonveg options.
oBrijrama PalaceHERITAGE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9129414141; www.brijrama.in; Munshi/Darbhanga Ghat; r ₹21,850-42,550; aW)
This meticulously renovated riverfront palace, built in 1812 and known as the Darbangha Mahal, is simply exquisite. From the period chandeliers to the oriental rugs to the carved stone columns and artwork on the walls, this is the most authentic and luxurious heritage hotel along the ghats. Its Darbangha restaurant may well be the best in Varanasi.
Enter from the ghats by elevator – the original was one of India's first, hoisted by horse and pulley!
SLEEPING PRICE RANGES
Accommodation price ranges for this region are:
$ below ₹1500
$$ ₹1500–4000
$$$ above ₹4000
Assi Ghat Area
Stops HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9506118023; www.gostops.com; B20/47A2, Vijaya Nagaram Colony; tent Nov-Feb ₹250, dm from ₹500, d with AC ₹2000, all incl breakfast; aiW)
Varanasi's original hostel is in a four-story residential mansion 2km or so from Assi Ghat. Dorms in six-, eight- and 14-bed variations are livened up by colourful lockers, and there are ample hang-out spaces on various floors that cultivate the right vibe – a rare find in UP.
The few privates are basic and a bit overpriced; the real draws are the dorms, common areas and the rooftop showers, each uniquely painted by various artistic volunteers. The hostel offers all sorts of tours and activities, from cooking classes to sunrise river trips, making it easy to get the most out of your stay. It's a solid choice for the socially inclined – the only downside is its distance from the ghats.
Sahi River View GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-2366730; www.sahiriverview.co.in; B1/158 Assi Ghat; s/d ₹400/800, r with AC from ₹1450, all incl breakfast; aiW)
You'll find a huge variety of rooms at this friendly place, which is better than it looks from its entrance down a side alley. Most rooms are good quality and clean, and some have interesting private balconies. Each floor has a pleasant communal seating area with river view, creating a great feeling of space throughout.
oHotel Ganges ViewHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-2313218; www.hotelgangesview.co.in; Assi Ghat; r with AC ₹5100-8000; aiW)
Simply gorgeous, this beautifully restored and maintained colonial-style house overlooking Assi Ghat is crammed with books, artwork and antiques. Rooms are spacious and immaculate and there are some charming communal areas in which to sit and relax, including a lovely 1st-floor garden terrace. Book ahead.
Palace on GangesHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-2315050; www.palaceonganges.com; B1/158 Assi Ghat; r ₹6900-9200; aiW)
Each room is individually themed on a regional Indian style, using antique furnishings and colourful design themes. The colonial, Rajasthan and Jodhpur rooms are among the best, but look at a few if you can, as the more expensive rooms aren't necessarily better than the less expensive ones.
Cantonment Area
Hotel SuryaHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-2508465; www.hotelsuryavns.com; S-20/51 A-5 The Mall Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹3450/4025; aiWs)
Varanasi’s cheapest hotel with a swimming pool, Surya has standard three-star Indian rooms, but a modern makeover in the superior and premium rooms means everything has been tightened up a bit, with stylish new furnishings, upholstery and the like – yours for ₹1500 or so more above standard rates.
Value here is palpable, as all is built around a huge lawn area that includes a colourful lounge-style bar and cafe flanked by a gorgeous, nearly 200-year-old heritage building (the former stomping grounds of a Nepali king), where the excellent-value Canton Royale ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hotelsuryavns.com; S-20/51A-5 The Mall Rd; mains ₹200-390; h11am-11pm) is housed. There's also the good (but smoky) Sol Bar and the recommended Aarna Spa.
5Eating
Look for locally grown langda aam (mangoes) in summer or sitafal (custard apples) in autumn. Singharas are water chestnuts that are sold raw (green) or cooked (black) – there's a risk of intestinal parasites with the raw ones.
Many eateries in the Old City shut in summer due to unbearable humidity and water levels that often flood the ghats and around.
Old City Area
Bhumi French BakersBAKERY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bengali Tola; pastries ₹50; h6am-6pm; W)
This casual cafe creates some of the best pastries in Varanasi, and what might be the best chocolate croissants in all of India.
Keshari RestaurantINDIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 14/8 Godaulia; mains ₹130-200; h9.30am-10.30pm; v)
Known as much for excellent cuisine as for surly service, this atmospheric spot (carved-wood panelling dons the walls and ceilings) has been famously at it for nearly a half-century. Indians pack in here for high-quality veg cuisine from all over India – a dizzying array of dishes are on offer (more than 40 paneer curries alone).
Those who like to dance with the devil should spring for the paneer Kadahi (spicy tomato-based gravy), sure to make your nose run. Note: this restaurant is about 20 metres down a side street off Dashashwamedh Rd. Do not confuse it with the less-desirable Keshari Ruchiker Byanjan around the corner on Dashashwamedh Rd.
Ayyar's CafeSOUTH INDIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Dashashwamedh Rd; mains ₹35-120; h9.30am-8.30pm)
Excellent, no-nonsense choice off the tourist-beaten path for South Indian masala dosa, and its spicier cousin, the Mysore dosa; and one of the few cheapies to serve filtered coffee. It's tucked away at the end of a very short alley signed 'New Keshari Readymade' off Dashashwamedh Rd.
oBrown Bread BakeryMULTICUISINE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9792420450; www.brownbreadbakery.com; Bengali Tola, near Pandey Ghat; mains ₹125-400; h7am-10pm; aW)S
This restaurant's fabulous menu includes more than 40 varieties of European-quality cheese and more than 30 types of bread, cookies and cakes – along with excellent pastas, sandwiches, pizzas and more. Sit downstairs at street level (AC in summer) or upstairs at the casual rooftop cafe, with seating on cushions around low tables and glimpses of the Ganges.
Pop in for the shockingly European breakfast buffet (7am to noon; ₹300) or the free, nightly live classical-music performances (7.30pm). Part of the profits goes to the Learn for Life school. Warning: don't be fooled by impostors who pretend to be the BBB. Note this new location (on Bengali Tola, near Pandey Ghat), and remember: the real BBB will never accept cash donations for Learn for Life.
Bona CafeKOREAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bengali Tola; mains ₹100-500; h9am-10pm)
This cosy restaurant does everything well, but you really want to come here for the quality Korean food. Tasty full meals, such as jabchaebab (glass-noodle stir-fry), include soup and kimchi. Sit on floor cushions, at tables or on the patio overlooking Bengali Tola. The owner, Bona, is as kind as they come.
Dolphin RestaurantINDIAN$$
(Rashmi Guest House; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 16/28A Man Mandir Ghat; mains ₹130-340; h7am-10pm)
The atmosphere trumps the food at Dolphin – the rooftop restaurant at Rashmi Guest House – which is perched high above Man Mandir Ghat, but it's still a fine place for an evening meal. The breezy balcony is the most refined table in the Old City and one of the few that serves nonveg as well.
oDarbanghaINDIAN, MULTICUISINE$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9129414141; Brijrama Palace Hotel, Munshi/Darbhanga Ghat; mains ₹750-1100, thalis ₹1750; hnoon-3pm & 7.30-10.30pm)
Seriously some of the best Indian food we've ever had. The palak chaman (paneer in spinach and spices) is heaven in your mouth and the aloo chaat is a gourmet-street-food revelation. There's also a good list of continental and Thai options. For nonguests there's a minimum charge of ₹1000 per person. It's worth it.
DON'T MISS
NO 1 LASSI IN ALL VARANASI
Your long, thirsty search for the best lassi in India is over. Look no further than Blue Lassi ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; lassi ₹40-90; h9am-10pm; W), a tiny, hole-in-the-wall yoghurt shop that has been churning out the freshest, creamiest, fruit-filled lassis since 1925. The grandson of the original owner still works here, sitting by his lassi-mixing cauldron in front of a small room with wooden benches for customers to sit on and walls plastered with messages from happy drinkers.
There are more than 80 delicious flavour combos, divided by section – plain, banana, apple, pomegranate, mango, papaya, strawberry, blueberry, coconut and saffron. We think banana and apple, the latter flecked with fresh apple shreds, just about top the long list. (What the hell, make it banana-apple!)
The whole scene here is surreal: the lassi takes ages to arrive while a UN-rivalling group of thirsty nationalities chats away; when it does, it's handed off to you with the care of a priceless work of art as the deceased are carried by the front of the shop on the way to Burning Ghat (Manikarnika). Namaste!
Assi Ghat Area
Aum CafeCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.touchoflight.us; B1/201 Assi Ghat; mains ₹70-180; h8am-4.30pm Tue-Sun; Wv)S
Run by an American woman who has been coming to India for more than 20 years, this colourful cafe has breakfast all day (good lemon pancakes!), astounding lemon-and-organic-green-tea lassis and a handful of light sandwiches and mains that offer a respite from all the curry. There’s also massage therapy and body piercing available.
oOpen HandCAFE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.openhand.in; 1/128-3 Dumraub Bagh; mains ₹160-280; h8am-8pm; W)S
This shoes-off cafe-cum–gift shop serves real espresso and French-press coffee alongside breakfast platters featuring pancakes, omelettes and muesli. There's also a range of salads, sandwiches, pastas and baked goods, which are excellent. Sit on the narrow balcony or lounge around the former home all day on the free wi-fi.
There’s also a large selection of gorgeous handicrafts (jewellery, toys, clothing) made in the local community. Couldn't be more pleasant.
Vegan & RawVEGAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Shivala Rd, near Tulsi Ghat; mains ₹170-220; h9am-9.30pm; W)
This casual courtyard restaurant is an offshoot of Brown Bread Bakery, featuring excellent vegan dishes, including a full page of salads from spinach-radish-walnut to papaya-pomegranate-linseed. Entrées lean toward pastas, but there's also tofu, momo (Tibetan dumplings) and couscous. Eclectic live music is performed Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at around 7pm. It's behind the Organic by Brown Bread Bakery shop.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Wine and beer shops are dotted discreetly around the city, usually away from the river. (Note that it is frowned upon to drink alcohol on or near the holy Ganges.) Liquor laws regarding proximity of temples ensure nobody is licensed, but rooftops here can usually discreetly fashion up a beer. For bars, head to midrange and top-end hotels away from the ghats.
Mangi FerraCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hotelsuryavns.com; S-20/51A-5 The Mall Rd; h11am-11pm)
This colourful, laid-back lounge in the garden at Hotel Surya is a relaxing place where you can sip on espresso (₹70), a cold one or a cocktail (₹120 to ₹480) in the garden, or on waves of couches and armchairs.
Prinsep BarBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tajhotels.com; Gateway Hotel Ganges, Raja Bazaar Rd; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun)
For a quiet drink with a dash of history, try this tiny bar named after James Prinsep, who drew wonderful illustrations of Varanasi’s ghats and temples (but stick to beer as the 25ml cocktail pour is weak).
3Entertainment
There’s nightly live Indian classical music at Brown Bread Bakery.
The International Music Centre Ashram has small performances (₹150) on Wednesday and Saturday evenings.
7Shopping
Varanasi is justifiably famous for silk brocades and beautiful Benares saris, but don't believe much of what the silk salesmen tell you about the relative quality of products, even in government emporiums. Instead, shop around and judge for yourself.
There are loads of musical instrument shops on Bengali Tola (near Rana Ghat), many of which offer lessons.
oBaba BlacksheepFASHION & ACCESSORIES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; B12/120 A-9, Bhelpura; h9am-8pm)
If the deluge of traveller enthusiasm is anything to go by, this is the most trustworthy, non-pushy shop in India. Indeed it is one of the best places you'll find for silks (scarves/saris from ₹500/4000) and pashmina (shawls from ₹1700).
Prices are fixed (though unmarked) and the friendly owner refuses to play the commission game, so autorickshaws and taxis don't like to come here (ignore anyone who says you cannot drive here, and make sure you're in the right place, not an imposter). It's located at Bhelpura crossing under the mosque. It's not the cheapest, but it's a pleasant experience.
Mehrotra Silk FactoryFASHION & ACCESSORIES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mehrotrasilk.in; 4/8A Lal Ghat; h10am-8pm)
In a labyrinth of alleys behind Lal Ghat, this fixed-price shop, its floor cushioned for seating, offers fine silks for fair prices. Grab something as small as a scarf or as big as a bedcover. There's another branch ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mehrotrasilk.in; 21/72 Englishia Line; h10am-8pm) near the railway station.
Organic by Brown Bread BakeryCOSMETICS, FOOD
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.brownbreadbakery.com; 2/225 Shivali; h7am-8pm; W)S
This small shop sells natural cosmetics from the government-sponsored Khadi program, as well as baked goods, muesli and cheese from Brown Bread Bakery.
Shri Gandhi Ashram KhadiCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Sankat Mochan Rd; h10am-7.30pm)
Stocks shirts, kurta shirts, saris and headscarves, all made from the famous homespun khadi fabric.
8Information
There are several ATMs scattered around town, including State Bank of India in the lobby as you exit the train station.
Heritage HospitalHOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-2368888; www.heritagehospitals.in; Lanka)
English-speaking staff and doctors; 24-hour pharmacy.
Main Post OfficePOST
(GPO; GOOGLE MAP ; www.indiapost.gov.in; off Rabindranath Tagore Rd, Visheshwarganj; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Best PO for sending parcels abroad.
Tourist PolicePOLICE
( GOOGLE MAP ; UP Tourism office, Varanasi Junction train station; h5am-9pm)
Tourist police wear sky-blue uniforms.
UP TourismTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-2506670; www.uptourism.gov.in; Varanasi Junction Train Station; h10am-6pm)
The patient Mr Umashankar at the office inside the train station has been dishing out reasonably impartial information to arriving travellers for years; he’s a mine of knowledge, so this is a requisite first stop if you arrive here by train.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Lal Bahadur Shashtri Airport, 24km north of town in Babatpur, is served by several airlines with nonstop flights to select cities in India, including Delhi, Mumbai, Benguluru (Bangalore), and Hyderabad. Thai Airways flies directly to Bangkok on Monday, Tuesday and Thursday.
Bus
The main bus stand ( GOOGLE MAP ) is opposite Varanasi Junction train station. Lucknow Volvo AC buses can be reserved in advance at a dedicated ticket window at the station.
AAllahabad ₹120, three hours, every 30 minutes, 4am to 10pm; also eight daily AC buses for ₹193
ADelhi AC buses ₹1227, 16 hours, 10am and 2.30pm
AFaizabad ₹195, seven hours, frequent service from 5am to 9pm
AGorakhpur ₹185, seven hours, every 30 minutes, 4am to 10pm; also siz daily AC buses for ₹317
ALucknow Non-AC ₹275, 7½ hours, every 30 minutes, 4am to 11pm; also AC buses ₹480-900, 7½ hours, 8am, 10.30am, 9pm, 9.30pm and 10.30pm
GETTING TO NEPAL
From Varanasi’s bus stand there are regular services to Sunauli (₹293, 10 hours, every 30 minutes, 4am to 11pm), plus one nightly AC bus that goes all the way to Kathmandu (₹1370, 16 hours, 10pm). By train, go to Gorakhpur then transfer to a Sunauli bus. By air, you'll be connecting through Delhi. Nepali visas are available on arrival.
BUYER BEWARE: 'THROUGH' BUS TICKETS
Be wary of buying ‘through’ tickets from Kathmandu or Pokhara to Varanasi. Some travellers report being intimidated into buying another ticket once over the border. Travelling in either direction, it’s better to take a local bus to the border, walk across and take another onward bus (pay the conductor on-board) – though there is one legit, direct Varanasi–Kathmandu bus each day (you can buy tickets from its booth at the bus stand).
Travellers have also complained about being pressured into paying extra luggage charges for buses out of Sunauli. You shouldn't have to, so politely decline.
Train
Varanasi Junction train station, also known as Varanasi Cantonment (Cantt), is the main station.
There are several daily trains to Allahabad, Gorakhpur and Lucknow. A few daily trains leave for New Delhi and Kolkata/Howrah, but none go to Agra. (But there are daily trains from Mughal Sarai Junction, 18km from Varanasi, to Tundla, 24km from Agra). The direct train to Khajuraho only runs on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday. On other days, go via Satna, a much larger rail transit hub from where you can catch buses to Khajuraho.
Luggage theft has been reported on trains to and from Varanasi so you should take extra care. Reports of drugged food and drink aren't unheard of, so it’s probably best to politely decline any offers from strangers.
Handy Trains from Varanasi
| Destination | Train no & name | Fare (₹) | Duration (hr) | Departure |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Agra Fort | 14853 Marudhar Exp | 350/950/1365 (A) | 13 | 5.25pm |
| Allahabad | 15159 Sarnath Exp | 140/490/695 (A) | 3 | 12.25pm |
| Gorakhpur | 15003 Chaurichaura Exp | 170/490/695 (A) | 6½ | 12.35am |
| Jabalpur | 12168 BSB-LTT Sup Exp | 315/810/1140 (A) | 8½ | 10.25am |
| Khajuraho | 21108 BSB-Kurj Link E | 265/720 (B) | 11½ | 5.45pm* |
| Kolkata (Howrah) | 12334 Vibhuti Exp | 415/1100/1565 (A) | 13½ | 6.08pm |
| Lucknow | 14235 BSB-BE Exp | 210/570/810 (A) | 7¼ | 11.40pm |
| New Delhi | 12561 Swatantra S Exp | 415/1100/1565 (A) | 12 | 12.40am |
Fares: (A) sleeper/3AC/2AC, (B) sleeper/3AC; * Monday, Wednesday, Saturday only
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
An autorickshaw to the airport in Babatpur, 24km northwest of the city, costs ₹350. A taxi is about ₹800.
Bicycle
You can hire bikes from a small cycle repair shop ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %7860154166; 1/105 Assi-Dham; bike hire per day ₹30; h8am-7pm) near Assi Ghat.
Cycle-Rickshaw
A small ride – up to 2km – costs ₹50. Rough prices from Godaulia Crossing include Assi Ghat (₹50), Benares Hindu University (₹60) and Varanasi Junction train station (₹60). Be prepared for hard bargaining.
Taxi & Autorickshaw
Prepaid booths for autorickshaws and taxis are directly outside Varanasi Junction train station and give you a good benchmark for prices around town – though it doesn't work as well as some other cities as there are usually no officials policing it, so you'll have to haggle here, too.
If the drivers are playing by the system, you'll pay an administration charge (₹5 for autorickshaws, ₹10 for taxis) at the booth then take a ticket which you give to your driver, along with the fare, once you’ve reached your destination. Note that taxis and autorickshaws cannot access the Dashashwamedh Ghat area between the hours of 9am and 9pm due to high pedestrian traffic. You'll be dropped at Godaulia Crossing and will need to walk the remaining 400m or so to the entrance to the Old City, or 700m or so all the way to Dashashwamedh Ghat. During banned hours, autorickshaws line up near Godaulia Crossing at a stand ( GOOGLE MAP ; Luxa Rd) on Luxa Rd.
Sample fares:
Airport auto/taxi ₹225/650
Assi Ghat auto/taxi ₹90/300
Godaulia Crossing auto/taxi ₹95/250
Sarnath auto/taxi ₹120/400
Half-day tour (four hours) taxi ₹500
Full-day tour (eight hours) taxi ₹900
Autorickshaws do not offer half-/full-day tours. Shared autos ( GOOGLE MAP ; Mandapur Rd; ₹15) to Assi Ghat and Benares University leave from Mandapur Rd.
Sarnath
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Buddha came to Sarnath to preach his message of the middle way to nirvana after he achieved enlightenment at Bodhgaya, and gave his famous first sermon here. In the 3rd century BC, Emperor Ashoka had magnificent stupas and monasteries erected here, as well as an engraved pillar. When Chinese traveller Xuan Zang dropped by in AD 640, Sarnath boasted a 100m-high stupa and 1500 monks living in large monasteries. However, soon after, Buddhism went into decline and, when Muslim invaders sacked the city in the late 12th century, Sarnath disappeared altogether. It was ‘rediscovered’ by British archaeologists in 1835.
Today it’s one of the four key sites on the Buddhist circuit (along with Bodhgaya, Kushinagar and Lumbini in Nepal) and attracts followers from around the world, especially on Purnima (or, informally, Buddha's birthday), when Buddha's life, death and enlightenment are celebrated, usually in April or May.
Sarnath
1Sights
1Sights
Purchase tickets for Sarnath's sights at the ticket office ( GOOGLE MAP ) opposite the Archaeological Museum gardens. In addition to the main sights, check out some of the temples and gardens created by various Buddhist nations.
Dhamekh Stupa & Monastery RuinsBUDDHIST SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Indian/foreigner ₹15/200, video ₹25; hdawn-dusk)
Set in a peaceful park of monastery ruins is this impressive 34m stupa, marking the spot where the Buddha preached his first sermon. The floral and geometric carvings are 5th century AD, but some of the brickwork dates back as far as 200 BC.
Nearby is the 3rd-century-BC Ashoka Pillar, engraved with an edict. It once stood 15m tall and had the famous four-lion capital, now in the museum, perched atop; all that remains are five fragments of its base.
Thai Temple & MonasteryBUDDHIST TEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h6.30am-6pm Apr-Sep, 7.15am-5pm Oct-Mar)
With its unique, red-walled, white-roofed design, the temple is worth a look, but the real reason to visit are the peaceful gardens that surround it.
Burmese Temple & MonasteryBUDDHIST TEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h7.30am-6pm)
The Burmese Temple features a triple-pagoda roof and several statues of the Buddha, set in lush gardens.
Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ₹5; h9am-5pm)
This fully modernised, 100-year-old sandstone museum houses wonderfully displayed ancient treasures, such as the very well-preserved, 3rd-century-BC lion capital from the Ashoka Pillar, which has been adopted as India’s national emblem, and a huge 2000-year-old stone umbrella, ornately carved with Buddhist symbols.
Mulgandha Kuti ViharBUDDHIST TEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; video ₹25; h6am-6pm)
This turreted temple was completed in 1931 by the Mahabodhi Society, and is noted for its unique wall frescoes, which look almost like animation stills. Buddha’s first sermon is chanted daily, starting between 6pm and 7pm, depending on the season. A bodhi tree growing outside was transplanted in 1931 from the tree in Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka, which in turn is said to be the offspring of the original tree in Bodhgaya.
Entry is through the Dhamekh Stupa grounds.
4Sleeping & Eating
Agrawal Paying Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-2595316; agrawalpg@gmail.com; 14/94 Ashok Marg; r ₹700-800, with AC ₹1400; aW)
A peaceful place with a refined owner, and spotless marble-floored rooms overlooking a large garden.
Jain Paying Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0542-2595621; www.visitsarnath.com; Sa 14/37; s/d ₹500/750, r without bathroom ₹400; W)
This simple guesthouse is run by a friendly doctor of geography, whose wife whips up home-cooked pure veg thalis (₹180). The five rooms are rustic and well worn, but have mosquito window screens. Prices drop to ₹300 between April and September.
Vaishali RestaurantINDIAN, CHINESE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains ₹80-230; h8am-9pm)
Large and modern 1st-floor restaurant serving mostly Indian dishes, but some Chinese too. It's the best in town.
Green HutINDIAN, CHINESE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains ₹60-230; h9am-7.30pm)
A breezy, open-sided cafe-restaurant offering snacks, thalis (₹90 to ₹140) and Chinese dishes.
8Information
HDFC ( GOOGLE MAP ) has an ATM.
8Getting There & Away
Local buses to Sarnath (₹20, 40 minutes) pass in front of Varanasi Junction train station, but you may wait a long time for one.
An autorickshaw costs ₹150 from Varanasi Junction train station (use that as your bargaining base if you catch one from the Old City); pay the same to get back. Or if you prefer, you can return to Varanasi in a shared auto or vikram (₹15) to Pandeypur, where you'll need to switch to another shared auto to Benia Bagh (₹15), which is just a ₹40 cycle-rickshaw ride from Godaulia.
There are unreserved trains from Varanasi to Sarnath at 6.55am (daily), 9.40am (Monday to Saturday) and 9.50pm (Sunday to Friday); hop on and pay ₹20. From Sarnath to Varanasi, catch train 15159 at 11.35am (Sarnath Express; sleeper/3AC ₹140/490, 45 minutes), or take an unreserved train at 5.43am (Sunday to Friday) or 3.38pm (Monday to Friday).