Goa
Panaji (Panjim)
Old Goa
Mapusa
Candolim
Calangute & Baga
Anjuna
Assagao
Vagator & Chapora
Morjim
Aswem
Mandrem
Arambol (Harmal)
Margao
Chandor
Colva
Benaulim
Agonda
Palolem
Patnem
Goa
Why Go?
Pint-sized Goa is much more than beaches and trance parties. A kaleidoscopic blend of Indian and Portuguese cultures, sweetened with sun, sea, sand, seafood and spirituality, there's nowhere in India quite like it.
The central region (practically beach-free) is Goa's historic and cultural heart, home to capital Panaji, Old Goa's glorious churches, inland islands, bird sanctuaries, spice plantations and the wild Western Ghats.
North Goa is the Goa you've heard all about: busy beaches, upbeat nightlife, Goan trance, great food, hippie markets and yoga retreats. Calangute and Baga are the epicentre. Anjuna (with its famous Wednesday market) and Vagator still exude some hippie cool and party vibe. Laid-back Morjim, Aswem and Mandrem are burgeoning family-friendly beach resorts. Northern, budget-loving Arambol hosts paragliding.
South Goa is the state's more serene half, with cleaner, whiter, quieter beaches ranging from village-feel Benaulim to backpacker-friendly beach-hut bliss at Palolem, Patnem and Agonda.
When to Go
ASep–Nov Some shacks up, but prices are lower and crowds fewer; humid weather post-monsoon.
ANov–Mar Wonderful weather; beach huts, yoga, festivals in full swing; peak prices and crowds mid-Dec to early Jan.
AMar–Apr Carnival and Easter celebrations as the season winds down.
Goa Highlights
1 Panaji Exploring the historic Latin Quarter, shopping and eating well in India’s most laid-back state capital.
2 Assagao Dropping in to a yoga class at Assagao, Anjuna, Arambol or Mandrem.
3 Anjuna Flea Market Haggling for a bargain at this touristy but fun Wednesday market.
4 Old Goa Standing in silence in the extraordinary churches and cathedrals of Old Goa.
5 Cola Beach Trekking down to secluded Cola, one of Goa's prettiest beaches.
6 Mandrem Sleeping in style and stretching out with a good book at this peaceful beach.
7 Palolem Checking into a beach hut on beautiful Palolem Beach, where you can kayak, learn to cook and relax.
8 Chandor Marvelling at colonial mansions and palácio in this village near Margao.
9 Agonda Booking into a luxurious beachfront hut and learning to surf.
History
A 100,000-year look back through the history of Goa offers a keen insight into some of the region’s most mysterious and alluring archaeological and historic remains, and into the Goan psyche itself.
Goa went through a dizzying array of rulers from Ashoka’s Mauryan empire in the 3rd century BC to the long-ruling Kadambas from the 3rd century AD. Subsequent conflict saw rival sultanates fighting the Hindu Vijayanagar empire for control, before the Adil Shahs of Bijapur created the capital we now call Old Goa in the 15th century.
The Portuguese arrived in 1510 and steadily extended their power from their grand capital at Old Goa out into the provinces, zealously converting the locals to Christianity. Their 400-year reign came to an end in 1961, after a three-day siege by the Indian Army, but the Portuguese legacy lives on in the state’s colonial-era mansions, its cuisine, churches and even in its language.
2Activities
Yoga & Alternative Therapies
Every imaginable form of yoga, meditation, reiki, ayurvedic massage and other spiritually orientated health regime is practised, taught and relished in Goa. The best time is mid-November to early April, when all outfits or retreats are open and courses are in full swing. A handful of classes operate year-round.
Palolem, Agonda and Patnem in the south, and Arambol, Mandrem, Anjuna and Assagao in the north, are particularly great places for yoga classes and courses.
Ayurvedic treatments can be found at most beach villages. Ask around for personal recommendations and ensure that massages are conducted by a female if you're a woman and a male if you're a man. The spas at Goa’s five-star hotels offer a superluxurious alternative.
Wildlife-Watching
Goa's hinterland is great for spotting wildlife, from the blazing kingfishers that fleck the coastal strip’s luminescent paddy fields, to the water buffalo that wander home come sunset. Goa’s wildlife sanctuaries host hard-to-spot wonders such as gaurs (Indian bison), porcupines, wild boar and the occasional pangolin (scaly anteater) or leopard. A loud rustle in the leaves overhead often signals the arrival of mischievous langur monkeys. Taking a riverine trip inland, you might spot crocodiles, otters, and yet more birdlife.
John's Boat Tours in Candolim runs dolphin- and crocodile-spotting trips.
Water Sports
Most water-sports outfits run on a seasonal, itinerant basis; it’s enough to turn up at a beach and look around for a shack offering your chosen activity. Calangute and Colva are the busiest water-sports beaches. Activities include jet skiing, parasailing, wake-boarding, kayaking, surfing and kitesurfing. Paragliding is popular at Arambol. The best places for kayaking are Palolem's calm bay or Goa's numerous rivers and estuaries. Surfing outfits include Vaayu Waterman's Village in Aswem, Surf Wala in Arambol and Aloha Surf School in Agonda.
Although Goa is not an internationally renowned diving destination, its waters are India's third-best diving spot (after the Andaman and Lakshadweep Islands). Dive season runs from late October to April. Recommended Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) accredited operations in Goa include Barracuda Diving in Baga, Dive Goa in Candolim, Goa Aquatics in Calangute and Goa Diving ( GOOGLE MAP ; %9049442647; www.goadiving.com; courses from ₹11,000, one-/two-tank dive ₹3000/5000) in Bogmalo.
TOP STATE FESTIVALS
Feast of the Three Kings (h6 Jan) Boys re-enact the story of the three kings bearing gifts for Christ.
Shigmotsav of Holi (hFeb/Mar) Goa’s version of the Hindu festival Holi sees coloured powders thrown about and parades in most towns.
Sabado Gordo (Panaji; hFeb/Mar) A procession of floats and street parties on the Saturday before Lent.
Carnival (Mar; statewide) A four-day festival kicking off Lent; the party’s particularly jubilant in Panaji.
Fama de Menino Jesus (Colva; 2nd Mon in Oct) Statue of the baby Jesus is paraded through the streets of Colva.
Feast of St Francis Xavier (Panaji, Old Goa; h3 Dec) A 10-day celebration of Goa’s patron saint.
Feast of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception (8 Dec; Margao, Panaji) Fairs and concerts around Panaji’s famous church.
8Information
The Goa Tourism Development Corporation (www.goa-tourism.com) provides maps and information, operates hotels throughout the state and runs a host of tours.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Goa’s airport, Dabolim (DABOLIM, Goa International Airport; %0832-2540806), is served directly by domestic flights, a handful of international flights from the Middle East, and seasonal package-holiday charters (mostly from Russia, Europe and the UK).
Unless you're on a charter, you'll generally have to fly into a major city such as Mumbai or Delhi and change to a domestic flight with Jet Airways, Air India, SpiceJet or IndiGo.
Bus
Private and state-run long-distance buses run to/from Goa daily; in many cases you simply turn up at the bus station and jump on the next available bus. State-run and private companies offer ‘ordinary’, ‘deluxe’ 'superfast' and VIP services. Most comfortable are Volvo buses, with reclining seating and air-conditioning. Note that travel into and out of Mumbai by road is interminably slow; the train is faster and more comfortable.
Buses for Mumbai and other cities depart from Panaji, Margao and Mapusa between 5.30pm and 8.30pm daily; there are dozens of operators and departures, but fares are standard to/from anywhere in Goa. Kadamba (www.goakadamba.com), the state government bus company, serves the state and neighbouring regions. For booking private buses, try www.redbus.in.
Train
The 760km-long Konkan Railway (www.konkanrailway.com), completed in 1998, is the main train line running through the state, connecting Goa with Mumbai to the north and Mangalore to the south.
The biggest station in Goa is Margao’s Madgaon station, and many trains also pass through Karmali station near Old Goa, 12km from Panaji. Smaller stations on the line include Pernem for Arambol, Thivim for Mapusa and the northern beaches, and Canacona for Palolem.
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
From Dabolim Airport, prepaid taxis to central Panaji or Margao charge ₹870 (₹920 for AC). Alternatively, if you don’t have much luggage, catch a bus from the main road to Vasco da Gama, then a bus direct from Vasco to Panaji (₹30, 45 minutes).
Bus
Goa's extensive network of buses shuttle to and from almost every tiny town and village; the main hubs are Panaji, Margao and Mapusa. Travelling between north and south Goa you'll generally need to change at Margao, Panaji or both. Fares range from ₹5 to ₹40.
Car & Motorcycle
It’s easy in Goa to organise a private car with driver (or simply a taxi) for long-distance day trips. Expect to pay from ₹2000 for a full day (usually eight hours and 80km). Self-drive hire cars start from ₹900 to ₹1200 per day for a small Maruti to upwards of ₹2000 for a large 4WD, excluding fuel and usually with a per kilometre limit. Your best bet for rentals is online at sites such as www.goa2u.com.
You’ll rarely go far on a Goan road without seeing a local or tourist whizzing by on a scooter or motorbike, and renting one is a breeze. You’ll likely pay from ₹200 to ₹400 per day for a scooter, ₹400 to ₹500 for a smaller Yamaha motorbike, and ₹450 to ₹600 for a Royal Enfield Bullet. Prices can drop considerably if you’re renting for more than a few days or if it’s an off-peak period – bargain if there are lots of machines around.
Goan roads can be treacherous, filled with human, bovine, canine, feline, mechanical and avian obstacles, as well as potholes and hairpin bends. Take it slowly, be on the lookout for ‘speed breakers’, try not to drive at night (country lanes are poorly lit), and don’t attempt a north–south day trip on a 50cc bike.
Taxi & Autorickshaw
Taxis are widely available for town-hopping, but the local union cartel means prices are high, especially at night and more so around expensive hotels. A full day’s sightseeing, depending on the distance, is likely to be around ₹1500 to ₹2000. Agree on a price beforehand.
A new initiative by Goa Tourism is the Women's Taxi Service (%0832-2437437), with female drivers, phone-only bookings and only women, couples or families accepted as passengers. The vehicles are fitted with accurate meters and GPS monitoring, and the drivers are trained in first aid and self-defence. Fares can even be paid with a credit card.
Autorickshaws are about a third cheaper than taxis and generally better for short trips; count on ₹50 minimum for a short journey and ₹100 for a slightly longer one. Negotiate the fare before you jump in.
Motorcycle taxis, known as ‘pilots’, are also a licensed form of taxi in Goa, identified by a yellow front mudguard. They're only really common around major taxi stands and beach resorts, and cost half the price of a taxi.
Panaji & Central Goa
Panaji (Panjim)
%0832 / Pop 115,000
One of India’s most relaxed state capitals, Panaji (Panjim) crowds around the peninsula overlooking the broad Mandovi River, where cruise boats and floating casinos ply the waters, and advertising signs cast neon reflections in the night.
A glorious whitewashed church lords over the animated city centre, a broad leafy boulevard skirts around the river, and grand colonial-era buildings rub shoulders with arty boutiques, old-school bookshops, state-of-the-art malls and backstreet bars.
But it’s the tangle of narrow streets in the old Latin Quarter that really steal the show. Nowhere is the Portuguese influence felt more strongly than here, where the late afternoon sun lights up yellow houses with purple doors, and around each corner you’ll find restored ochre-coloured mansions with terracotta-tiled roofs, wrought-iron balconies and arched oyster-shell windows.
A day or two in Panaji really is an essential part of the Goan experience.
Panaji (Panjim)
1Top Sights
4Sleeping
5Eating
3Entertainment
8Information
Transport
1Sights & Activities
Some of Panaji's great pleasures are leisurely strolls through the sleepy Portuguese-era districts of Fontainhas and Sao Tomé and Altinho ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ). Riverside Campal Gardens ( GOOGLE MAP ), west of the centre, and Miramar Beach, 4km southwest of the city, are also popular spots.
oChurch of Our Lady of the Immaculate ConceptionCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Emilio Gracia & Jose Falcao Rds; h10am-12.30pm & 3-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-12.30pm & 3.30-5pm Sun, English Mass 8am daily)
Panaji’s spiritual, as well as geographical, centre is this elevated, pearly white church, built in 1619 over an older, smaller 1540 chapel, and stacked like a fancy white wedding cake. When Panaji was little more than a sleepy fishing village, this church was the first port of call for sailors from Lisbon, who would give thanks for a safe crossing, before continuing to Ela (Old Goa) further east up the river. The church is beautifully illuminated at night.
Goa State MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0832-2438006; www.goamuseum.gov.in; EDC Complex, Patto; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)F
This spacious museum east of town houses an eclectic, if not extensive, collection of items tracing aspects of Goan history. As well as some beautiful Hindu and Jain sculptures and bronzes, there are nice examples of Portuguese-era furniture, coins, an intricately carved chariot and a pair of quirky antique rotary lottery machines.
Goa State Central LibraryLIBRARY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Sanskruti Bhavan, Patto; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-5.45pm Sat & Sun)F
Panaji’s ultra-modern new state library, near the state museum, has six floors of reading material, a bookshop and gallery. The 2nd floor features a children’s book section and internet browsing (free, but technically only for academic research). The 4th floor has Goan history books and the 6th a large collection of Portuguese books.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
DUDHSAGAR FALLS
Goa’s most impressive waterfall splashes 603m down on the eastern border with Karnataka, in the far southeastern corner of the Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary. The falls are best visited as soon after monsoon as possible (October is perfect), when water levels are highest.
Get here via Colem village, 7km south of Molem, by car or by the scenic 8.15am local train from Margao (return train times vary seasonally). From Colem, pick up a shared jeep (₹500 per person for six people) for the bumpy remaining 45-minute journey. An easier option is a taxi or a full-day Goa Tourism ‘Dudhsagar Special’ tour (₹1200), starting at 9am from Calangute, Mapusa, Panaji or Miramar on Wednesday and Sunday, and returning at 6pm. Private travel agents also offer tours.
TTours
Organised boat cruises are a popular way to see the Mandovi River.
Paradise CruisesCRUISE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0832-2437960; http://paradisecruises.in; Tourist Boat Jetty; per person ₹300; hcruises 5.30pm & 7pm)
This private operator runs two evening 'party' cruises on the Mandovi River aboard its triple-decker boat. There's a bar on board and usually a cultural or dance show on the upper deck.
Mandovi River CruisesCRUISE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; sunset cruise ₹300, dinner cruise ₹650, backwater cruise ₹900; hsunset cruise 6pm, sundown cruise 7.15pm, dinner cruise 8.45pm Wed & Sat, backwater cruise 9.30am-4pm Tue & Fri)
Goa Tourism operates a range of entertaining hour-long cruises along the Mandovi River aboard the Santa Monica or Shantadurga. All include a live band and usually performances of Goan folk songs and dances. There are also twice-weekly, two-hour dinner cruises and a twice-weekly backwater cruise, which takes you down the Mandovi to Old Goa, a spice plantation and then heads back past Divar and Chorao Islands. All cruises depart from the Santa Monica Jetty next to the Mandovi Bridge.
zFestivals & Events
CarnivalRELIGIOUS
(statewide; hMar)
A four-day festival kicking off Lent; the party’s particularly jubilant in Panaji.
Feast of Our Lady of the Immaculate ConceptionRELIGIOUS
(Margao, Panaji; h8 Dec)
Fairs and concerts are held, as is a beautiful church service at Panaji’s Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception.
4Sleeping
Panaji has its fair share of accommodation for all budgets. In the middle range are some of Goa’s better boutique heritage hotels and guesthouses, mostly in the Fontainhas area.
oOld Quarter HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0832-6517606; www.thehostelcrowd.com; 31st Jan Rd, Fontainhas; dm ₹550-600, d with AC ₹1600-2000; aW)
In an old Portuguese house in historic Fontainhas, this flamboyant hostel offers slick four-bed dorms with lockers as well as private doubles in a separate building, along with the Urban Cafe, arty murals, good wi-fi and bikes for hire. Noon checkout.
A Pousada Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9850998213, 0832-2422618; sabrinateles@yahoo.com; Luis de Menezes Rd; s/d from ₹800/1050, d with AC ₹1575; aW)
The five rooms in this bright-yellow place are simple but clean and come with comfy spring-mattress beds and TV. Owner Sabrina is friendly and no-nonsense, and it’s one of Panaji’s better budget guesthouses.
Afonso GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9764300165, 0832-2222359; www.afonsoguesthouse.com; St Sebastian Rd; d ₹2900-3250; aW)
Run by the friendly Jeanette, this pretty Portuguese townhouse offers spacious, well-kept rooms with timber ceilings. The little rooftop terrace makes for sunny breakfasting (not included) with Fontainhas views. It’s a simple, serene stay in the heart of the most atmospheric part of town. Checkout is 9am and bookings are accepted online but not by phone.
La MaisonBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0832-2235555; www.lamaisongoa.com; 31st January Rd; r incl breakfast ₹4700-5300; aW)
Another boutique heritage hotel in Fontainhas, La Maison is historic on the outside but thoroughly modern and swanky within. The eight rooms are deceptively simple and homely but five-star comfortable with soft beds, cloud-like pillows, writing desks and flat-screen TVs. Breakfast is included and attached is the European fusion Desbue restaurant.
Caravela HomestayBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0832-2237448; www.caravela.in; 27 31st January Rd; s/d incl breakfast from ₹2000/2500, ste ₹4000; aW)
In a beautiful Sao Tome heritage building, Caravela has 10 minimalist but comfortable rooms with extra touches such as minibar and toiletries. Across the lane is the cafe where breakfast is served.
oPanjim InnHERITAGE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9823025748, 0832-2226523; www.panjiminn.com; 31st January Rd; s ₹5100-8000, d ₹5750-9200; aW)
One of the original heritage hotels in Fontainhas, the Panjim Inn has been a long-standing favourite for its character and charm, friendly owners and helpful staff. This beautiful 19th-century mansion has 12 charismatic rooms in the original house, along with newer rooms with modern touches to complement four-poster beds, colonial furniture and artworks. There's also a day spa and rooftop jacuzzi.
Goa Marriott ResortHOTEL$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0832-2463333; www.marriott.com; Miramar Beach; d ₹11,700-17,000; aWs)
Miramar’s plush Goa Marriott Resort is the best in the area. It's expertly choreographed, with the five-star treatment beginning in the lobby and extending right up to the rooms-with-a-view. The 24-hour Waterfront Terrace & Bar is a great place for a sundowner overlooking the pool, while its Simply Grills restaurant is a favourite with well-heeled Panjimites.
Panjim PousadaGUESTHOUSE$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0832-2226523; www.panjiminn.com; 31st January Rd; s ₹5100-8000, d ₹5750-9200; aW)
In an old Hindu mansion, the nine divine, colonial fantasy rooms at Panjim Pousada are set off by a stunning central courtyard, with antique furnishings and lovely art on the walls. Various doorways and spiral staircases lead to the rooms; those on the upper level are the best.
SLEEPING PRICE RANGES
The following price ranges refer to a double room with bathroom:
$ below ₹1200
$$ ₹1200–₹5000
$$$ above ₹5000
Accommodation prices in Goa can vary considerably depending on the season and demand. The high season runs from November to late February, but prices climb even higher during the crowded Christmas and New Year period (around 22 December to 3 January). Mid-season is October and March to April, and low season is the monsoon (May to September). These dates can vary a little depending on the monsoon and the granting of shack licences, which are renewed every couple of years.
All accommodation rates listed are for the high season – but not for the peak Christmas period, when you'll almost certainly have to book in advance. Always call ahead for rates and ask about discounts.
5Eating
A stroll down 18th June or 31st January Rds will turn up a number of cheap but tasty canteen-style options, as will a quick circuit of the Municipal Gardens. The Latin Quarter has a developing foodie scene, where you can dine on traditional Goan specialities or Western comfort food.
AnandashramINDIAN, GOAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 31st January Rd; thalis ₹90-140, mains ₹100-350; hnoon-3.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-3pm Sun)
This little place is renowned locally for seafood, serving up simple but tasty fish curries, as well as veg and nonveg thalis for lunch and dinner.
Vihar RestaurantINDIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; MG Rd; veg thali ₹100-150; h7-9am, 11am-3pm & 7.30-10.30pm)
A vast menu of ‘pure veg’ food, great big thalis, South Indian dosas and a plethora of fresh juices make this clean, simple canteen a popular place for locals and visitors. One of the few places in this area that’s still busy late into the evening.
oViva PanjimGOAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0832-2422405; 31st January Rd; mains ₹130-220; h11.30am-3.30pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat, 7-11pm Sun)
Well known to tourists, this little side-street eatery, in an old Portuguese house and with a few tables out on the laneway, still delivers tasty Goan classics at reasonable prices. There’s a whole page devoted to pork dishes, along with tasty xacuti (a spicy chicken or meat dish cooked in red coconut sauce) and cafreal (a marinated chicken dish) style meals, seafood such as kingfish vindaloo and crab xec xec, and desserts such as bebinca (richly layered Goan dessert made from egg yolk and coconut).
oCafe BodegaCAFE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0832-2421315; Altinho; mains ₹140-340; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; W)
It’s well worth a trip up to Altinho Hill to visit this serene cafe-gallery in a lavender-and-white Portuguese mansion in the grounds of Sunaparanta Centre for the Arts. Enjoy good coffee, juices and fresh-baked cakes around the inner courtyard or lunch on super pizzas and sandwiches.
VerandahGOAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0832-2226523; 31st January Rd; mains ₹180-420; h11am-11pm)
The breezy 1st-floor restaurant at Panjim Inn is indeed on the balcony, with just a handful of finely carved tables, Fontainhas street views and snappy service. Goan cuisine is the speciality, but there’s also a range of Indian and continental dishes and local wines.
Fisherman's WharfSEAFOOD$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %8888493333; http://thefishermanswharf.in; Dr Braganza Pereira Rd; mains ₹220-450; hnoon-11pm)
The successful formula from its long-running restaurant down in Mobor has been transplanted in the capital with fresh seafood, North Indian tandoor, kebabs and Goan specialities. The atmosphere on the open-side restaurant is relaxed but upmarket.
oBlack Sheep BistroEUROPEAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0832-2222901; www.blacksheepbistro.in; Swami Vivekanand Rd; tapas ₹190-280, mains ₹320-650; hnoon-4pm & 7-10.45pm)
Among the best of Panaji's burgeoning boutique restaurants, Black Sheep’s impressive pale-yellow facade gives way to a sexy dark-wood bar and loungy dining room. The tapas dishes are light, fresh and expertly prepared in keeping with their farm-to-table philosophy. Salads, pasta, seafood and dishes like lamb osso bucco grace the menu, while an internationally trained sommelier matches food to wine.
oHotel VeniteGOAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 31st January Rd; mains ₹340-460; h9am-10.30pm)
With its cute rickety balcony tables overhanging the cobbled street, Venite has long been among the most atmospheric of Panaji’s Goan restaurants. The menu is traditional, with spicy sausages, fish curry rice, pepper steak and bebinca, but Venite is popular with tourists and prices are consequently inflated. Drop in for a beer or shot of feni (Goan spirit) before deciding.
GOAN CUISINE
Goan cuisine is a tantalising fusion of Portuguese and South Indian flavours. Goans tend to be hearty meat and fish eaters, and fresh seafood is a staple: the quintessential Goan lunch of ‘fish-curry-rice’ is fried mackerel steeped in coconut, tamarind and chilli sauce. Traditional dishes include vindaloo (a fiery dish in a marinade of vinegar and garlic), xacuti (a spicy chicken or meat dish cooked in red coconut sauce) and cafreal (dry-fried chicken marinated in a green masala paste and sprinkled with toddy vinegar). For dessert try the layered bebinca cake.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Panaji’s local drinking scene is in the town’s tiny, tucked-away bars, mostly equipped with rudimentary plastic tables, a fridge, a few stools and an almost-exclusively male clientele. More upscale bars can be found in high-end hotels, along with a few English-style pubs.
Cafe MojoBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafemojo.in; Menezes Braganza Rd; h10am-4am Mon-Thu, to 6am Fri-Sun)
The decor is cosy English pub, the clientele young and up for a party, and the novelty is the e-beer system. Each table has its own beer tap and LCD screen: you buy a card (₹500), swipe it at your table and start pouring – it automatically deducts what you drink (you can use the card for spirits, cocktails or food too).
Riverfront & Down the RoadBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr MG & Ourem Rds; h11am-1am)
The balcony of this restaurant-bar overlooking the creek and Old Patto Bridge makes for a cosy beer or cocktail spot with carved barrels for furniture. The ground-floor bar (from 6pm) is the only real nightspot on the Old Quarter side of town, with occasional live music.
WARNING: DRUGS
Acid, ecstasy, cocaine, charas (hashish), marijuana and most other forms of drugs are illegal in India (though still readily available in Goa), and purchasing or carrying drugs is fraught with danger. Goa's Fort Aguada jail houses a number of prisoners, including some foreigners, serving drug-related sentences. Being caught in possession of even a small quantity of illegal substances can mean a 10-year stretch.
3Entertainment
Panaji’s most visible form of entertainment are the casino boats anchored out in the Mandovi River, but the city is also home to India’s biggest international film festival (www.iffi.nic.in; Panaji; hNov) and the cultural offerings of the excellent Kala Academy.
Kala AcademyCULTURAL CENTRE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0832-2420452; http://kalaacademygoa.org; Dayanand Bandodkar Marg)
On the west side of the city, in Campal, is Goa’s premier cultural centre, which features a program of dance, theatre, music and art exhibitions throughout the year. Many shows are in Konkani, but there are occasional English-language productions. The website has an up-to-date calendar of events.
Deltin RoyaleCASINO
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8698599999; www.deltingroup.com/deltin-royale; Noah’s Ark, RND Jetty, Dayanand Bandodkar Marg; weekday/weekend ₹3000/4000, premium package ₹4500/5500; h24hr, entertainment 9pm-1am)
Goa’s biggest and best luxury floating casino, Deltin Royal has 123 tables, the Vegas Restaurant, a Whisky Bar and a creche. Entry includes gaming chips worth ₹2000/3000 weekday/weekend and to the full value of your ticket with the premium package. Unlimited food and drinks included.
7Shopping
Caculo MallMALL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0832-2222068; http://caculomall.in; 16 Shanta, St Inez; h10am-9pm)
Goa’s biggest mall is four levels of air-conditioned family shopping heaven with brand-name stores, food court, kids’ toys and arcade games.
Municipal MarketMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Heljogordo Salgado Rd; hfrom 7.30am)
This atmospheric place, where narrow streets have been converted into covered markets, makes for a nice wander, offering fresh produce, clothing stalls and some tiny, enticing eateries. The fish market is a particularly interesting strip of activity.
Singbal’s Book HouseBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Church Sq; h9.30am-1pm & 3.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat)
On the corner opposite Panaji’s main church, Singbal’s has an excellent selection of international magazines and newspapers, and lots of books on Goa and travel.
Khadi IndiaARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Dr Atmaram Borkar Rd; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm)S
Goa’s only outpost of the government’s Khadi & Village Industries Commission has a fine range of hand-woven cottons, oils, soaps, spices and other handmade products that come straight from (and directly benefit) regional villages.
Marcou ArtifactsARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0832-2220204; www.marcouartifacts.com; 31st January Rd; h9am-8pm)
This small Fontainhas shop showcases one-off painted tiles, fish figurines and hand-crafted Portuguese and Goan ceramics at reasonable prices. Also has showrooms at Caculo Mall, Hotel Delmon and Margao’s market.
8Information
Goa Medical College HospitalHOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0832-2458700; www.gmc.goa.gov.in; Bambolim; h24hr)
This 1000-bed hospital is 9km south of Panaji on NH17 in Bambolim.
Goa TourismTOURIST INFORMATION
(GTDC; GOOGLE MAP ; %0832-2437132; www.goa-tourism.com; Paryatan Bhavan, Dr Alvaro Costa Rd; h9.30am-5.45pm Mon-Fri)
Better known as Goa Tourism, the GTDC office is in the large Paryatan Bhavan building across the Ourem Creek and near the bus stand. However, it’s more marketing office than tourist office and is of little use to casual visitors, unless you want to book one of GTDC’s host of tours.
Government of India Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0832-2223412; www.incredibleindia.com; Communidade Bldg, Church Sq; h9.30am-1.30pm & 2.30-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat)
The staff at this central tourist office can be helpful, especially for information outside Goa. This office is planning a move to the same building as Goa Tourism in Patto.
Main Post OfficePOST
( GOOGLE MAP ; MG Rd; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)
Offers swift parcel services and Western Union money transfers.
EMERGENCIES
Dialling 112 will connect you to the police, fire brigade or medical services.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
All local buses depart from Panaji’s Kadamba bus stand ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %interstate 0832-2438035, local 0832-2438034; www.goakadamba.com; hreservations 8am-8pm), with frequent local services every few minutes (to no apparent timetable); major destinations are Mapusa (₹30, 30 minutes) in the north, Margao (₹30, 45 minutes) to the south and Ponda (₹20, one hour) to the east. Most bus services run from 6am to 10pm.
For South Goa's beaches, take an express bus to Margao and change there; to get to beaches north of Baga, head to Mapusa and change there. There are direct buses to Candolim (₹20, 20 minutes), Calangute (₹25, 25 minutes) and Baga (₹30, 30 minutes).
State-run long distance services also depart from the Kadamba bus stand, but private operators offer similar prices and greater choice in type of bus and departure times. Many private operators have booths outside the entrance to the bus stand, but most private interstate services depart from the interstate bus stand across the highway next to the New Patto Bridge.
Paulo Travels ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0832-2438531; www.paulobus.com; G1, Kardozo Bldg)
Train
The closest train station to Panaji is Karmali (Old Goa), 12km east near Old Goa. A number of long-distance services stop here, including services to and from Mumbai. Many trains coming from Margao also stop here (but check in advance). Panaji’s Konkan Railway Reservation Office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0832-2712940; www.konkanrailway.com; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) is on the 1st floor of the Kadamba bus stand (not at the train station).
8Getting Around
A taxi from Panaji to Dabolim Airport costs ₹900 and takes 45 minutes, but allow an hour for traffic. From the airport, prepaid taxis charge ₹870 (₹920 for AC).
It’s easy enough to get around central Panaji and Fontainhas on foot. Taxis and autorickshaws charge extortionately for short trips. A return taxi to Old Goa costs ₹400; an autorickshaw should charge ₹300. Lots of taxis hang around at the Municipal Gardens. Autorickshaws and motorcycle taxis can be found in front of the post office, on 18th June Rd, and just south of the church.
Local buses run to Miramar (₹4, 10 minutes), Dona Paula (₹6, 15 minutes) and Old Goa (₹10, 20 minutes).
Taking the rusty but free passenger/vehicle ferry ( GOOGLE MAP ; hevery 20 min 6am-10pm) across the Mandovi River to the fishing village of Betim makes a fun shortcut en route to the northern beaches. It departs the jetty on Dayanand Bandodkar Marg.
WORTH A TRIP
BACKWOODS CAMP
In a forest near Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary, in far east Goa, rustic Backwoods Camp (%9822139859; www.backwoodsgoa.com; Matkan, Tambdi Surla; 2-/3-day stay per person ₹8500/12,000; W) is a magical, serene spot. The area is one of Goa's richest birding spots, with everything from Ceylon frogmouths and Asian fairy bluebirds to puff-throated babblers and Indian pittas putting in regular appearances. Accommodation is in tents on raised forest platforms, bungalows or farmhouse rooms; rates include meals and birdwatching guides.
Old Goa
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From the 16th to the 18th centuries, when Old Goa’s population exceeded that of Lisbon or London, Goa’s former capital was considered the ‘Rome of the East’. You can still sense that grandeur as you wander what’s left of the city, with its towering churches and cathedrals and majestic convents. Its rise under the Portuguese, from 1510, was meteoric, but cholera and malaria outbreaks forced the abandonment of the city in the 1600s. In 1843 the capital was officially shifted to Panaji. Some of the most imposing churches and cathedrals are still in use and are remarkably well preserved, while other historical buildings have become museums or simply ruins. It’s a fascinating day trip, but it can get crowded: consider visiting on a weekday morning.
Old Goa
1Sights
1Sights
Remember to cover your shoulders and legs when entering the churches and cathedral.
oBasilica of Bom JesusCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h7.30am-6.30pm)
Famous throughout the Roman Catholic world, the imposing Basilica of Bom Jesus contains the tomb and mortal remains of St Francis Xavier, the so-called Apostle of the Indies. St Francis Xavier’s missionary voyages throughout the East became legendary. His ‘incorrupt’ body is in the mausoleum to the right, in a glass-sided coffin amid a shower of gilt stars. Freelance guides at the entrance will show you around for ₹100.
oSé CathedralCATHEDRAL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-6pm; Mass 7am & 6pm Mon-Sat, 7.15am, 10am & 4pm Sun)
At over 76m long and 55m wide, the cavernous Sé Cathedral is the largest church in Asia. Building commenced in 1562, on the orders of King Dom Sebastiao of Portugal, and the finishing touches were finally made some 90 years later. The exterior is notable for its plain style, in the Tuscan tradition. Also of note is its rather lopsided look resulting from the loss of one of its bell towers, which collapsed in 1776 after being struck by lightning.
Church of St Francis of AssisiCHURCH
( GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-5pm)
West of the Sé Cathedral, the Church of St Francis of Assisi is no longer in use for worship, and consequently exudes a more mournful air than its neighbours.
Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child ₹10/free; h9am-5pm)
The archaeological museum houses some lovely fragments of sculpture from Hindu temple sites in Goa, and some Sati stones, which once marked the spot where a Hindu widow committed suicide by flinging herself onto her husband’s funeral pyre.
Church & Convent of St CajetanCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-6pm)
Modelled on the original design of St Peter’s in Rome, this impressive church was built by Italian friars of the Order of Theatines, sent here by Pope Urban VIII to preach Christianity in the kingdom of Golconda (near Hyderabad). The friars, however, were refused entry to Golconda, so settled instead at Old Goa in 1640. The construction of the church began in 1655, and although it’s perhaps less interesting than the other churches, it’s still a beautiful building and the only domed church remaining in Goa.
Museum of Christian ArtMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museumofchristianart.com; ₹50, camera ₹100; h9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat)
This museum, in a beautifully restored space within the 1627 Convent of St Monica, contains a collection of statues, paintings and sculptures. Interestingly, many of the works of Goan Christian art made during the Portuguese era, including some of those on display here, were produced by local Hindu artists.
Other Sights
There are plenty of other monuments in Old Goa to explore, including the Viceroy's Arch, Adil Shah Palace Gateway, the Chapel of St Anthony, the Chapel of St Catherine, the Church & Convent of St Monica ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-5pm), the Convent & Church of St John, the Sisters' Convent, the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-5pm), the Monastery of St Augustine and, 2km east of the centre, the Church of Our Lady of the Mount.
WORTH A TRIP
SPICE UP YOUR LIFE
The Ponda region, southeast of Panaji, is the centre of commercial spice farms in Goa and several have opened their doors as tourist operations, offering guided plantation tours, buffet thali-style lunches and, in some cases, cultural shows.
These farms typically produce spices such as vanilla, pepper, cardamom, nutmeg, chilli and turmeric, along with crops such as cashew, betel nut, coconut, pineapple and papaya. To reach them you'll need your own transport or a taxi.
Savoi PlantationFARM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0832-2340272, 9423888899; http://savoiplantations.com; adult/child ₹700/350; h9am-4.30pm)
This 200-year-old plantation, 12km north of Ponda, is the least touristy in the region (and elephant-free). Knowledgeable guides will walk you through the 40-hectare plantation. Local crafts are also for sale and there are a couple of cottages for overnight stays.
Pascoal Spice FarmFARM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0832-2344268; farm tour & lunch ₹400; h9am-4.30pm)
About 7km east of Ponda, Pascoal offers bamboo river-rafting and cultural shows, along with farm tours and lunch.
Tropical Spice PlantationFARM
(%0832-2340329; www.tropicalspiceplantation.com; Keri; tour incl lunch ₹400; h9am-4pm)
Accessed via a bamboo bridge, around 5km north of Ponda, this is one of the most popular farms with tour groups, so is often busy. An entertaining 45-minute tour of the spice plantation is followed by a banana-leaf buffet lunch.
8Getting There & Away
There are frequent buses to Old Goa (₹10, 25 minutes) from the Kadamba bus stand in Panaji to Old Goa's bus stand. Buses to Panaji or Ponda from Old Goa leave when full (around every 10 minutes) from either the main roundabout or the bus stop/ATM just beside the Tourist Inn restaurant.