Tamil Nadu & Chennai
Tamil Nadu & Chennai Highlights
Chennai (Madras)
Northern Tamil Nadu
South of Chennai
Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram)
Kanchipuram
Vellore
Tiruvannamalai
Gingee (Senji)
Puducherry (Pondicherry)
Auroville
Central Tamil Nadu
Chidambaram
Kumbakonam
Thanjavur (Tanjore)
Trichy (Tiruchirappalli)
Southern Tamil Nadu
Chettinadu
Madurai
Rameswaram
Kanyakumari (Cape Comorin)
The Western Ghats
Kodaikanal (Kodai)
Around Kodaikanal
Coimbatore
Around Coimbatore
Coonoor
Kotagiri
Ooty (Udhagamandalam)
Mudumalai Tiger Reserve
Tamil Nadu & Chennai
Why Go?
Tamil Nadu is the homeland of one of humanity’s living classical civilisations, stretching back uninterrupted for two millennia and very much alive today in the Tamils' language, dance, poetry and Hindu religion.
But this deep-South state, with its age-old trading vocation, is as dynamic as it is immersed in tradition. Fire-worshipping devotees who smear tikka on their brows in Tamil Nadu's famously spectacular temples might rush off to IT offices – and then unwind at a glitzy night-time haunt in rapidly modernising Chennai (Madras) or with sun salutations in bohemian Puducherry (Pondicherry).
When the hot chaos of Tamil temple towns overwhelms, escape to the southernmost tip of India where three seas mingle; to the splendid mansions sprinkled across arid Chettinadu; or up to the cool, forest-clad, wildlife-prowled Western Ghats. It’s all packed into a state that remains proudly distinct from the rest of India, while also being among the most welcoming.
When to Go
AJan–Mar The weather is at its (relative) coolest and the monsoon is over.
AJul–Sep Hit the hill stations after the crowded 'season' but while the weather is still good.
ANov–Dec The full-moon festival of lights.
Best Places to Sleep
A Visalam
Best Temples
Tamil Nadu & Chennai Highlights
1 Puducherry (Pondicherry) Soaking up the unique Franco-Indian flair, boho boutiques and lively yoga scene.
2 Hill Stations Escaping to the Western Ghats' cool, mist-cloaked mountains and heritage hotels at Kodaikanal (Kodai) or Ooty (Udhagamandalam).
3 Thanjavur (Tanjore) Admiring the crowning glory of Chola temple architecture, the Brihadishwara Temple.
4 Chettinadu Spending the night in an opulent mansion, meeting tile-makers and feasting on fiery cuisine.
5 Madurai Getting lost in the colourful chaos of Tamil temple life at Madurai's Meenakshi Amman Temple.
6 Tranquebar (Tharangambadi) Losing track of time at a quirky old Danish seaside colony.
7 Mudumalai Tiger Reserve Tracking down rare exotic wildlife between majestic mountain panoramas.
8 Chennai (Madras) Exploring the countless faces of Tamil Nadu's traditional but increasingly cosmopolitan capital.
9 Padmanabhapuram Palace Wandering the labyrinthine corridors of a teak-tastic masterpiece of traditional Keralan architecture.
History
The Tamils consider themselves the standard bearers of Dravidian – pre-Aryan Indian – civilisation. Dravidians are defined as speakers of languages of the Dravidian family, the four most important of which are all rooted in South India – Tamil, Malayalam (Kerala), Telugu (Telangana and Andhra Pradesh) and Kannada (Karnataka). South Indian cultures and history are distinct from Aryan North India, and Tamils' ability to trace their identity back in an unbroken line to classical antiquity is a source of considerable pride.
Despite the Dravidians' long-standing southern location, elements of Dravidian culture – including a meditating god seated in the lotus position, possibly the world’s first depiction of the yogi archetype – existed in the early Indus civilisations of northwest India some 4000 years ago. Whether Dravidian culture was widespread around India before Aryan cultures appeared in the north in the 2nd millennium BC, or whether the Dravidians only reached the south because the Aryans drove them from the north, is a matter of debate. But the cushion of distance has undoubtedly allowed South Indian cultures to develop with little interruption from northern influences or invasions for more than 2000 years.
The Tamil language was well established in Tamil Nadu by the 3rd century BC, the approximate start of the Sangam Age, when Tamil poets produced the body of classical literature known as Sangam literature. The Sangam period lasted until about AD 300, with three main Tamil dynasties arising in different parts of Tamil Nadu ('Tamil Country'): the early Cholas in the centre, the Cheras in the west and the Pandyas in the south.
By the 7th century the Pallavas, also Tamil, established an empire based at Kanchipuram extending from Tamil Nadu north into Andhra Pradesh. They take credit for the great stone carvings of Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram) and constructed the region's first free-standing temples.
Next in power were the medieval Cholas (whose connection with the early Cholas is hazy). Based in the Cauvery valley of central Tamil Nadu, at their peak the Cholas ruled Sri Lanka and the Maldives plus much of South India, and extended their influence to Southeast Asia, spreading Tamil ideas of reincarnation, karma and yogic practice.
The Cholas raised Dravidian architecture to new heights with the magnificent towered temples at Thanjavur and Gangaikondacholapuram, and carried the art of bronze image casting to its peak, especially in their images of Shiva as Nataraja, the cosmic dancer. Gopurams, the tall temple gate towers characteristic of Tamil Nadu, made their appearance in late Chola times.
By the late 14th century much of Tamil Nadu was under the sway of the Vijayanagar empire based at Hampi (Karnataka). As the Vijayanagar state weakened in the 16th century, some of their local governors, the Nayaks, set up strong independent kingdoms, notably at Madurai and Thanjavur. Vijayanagar and Nayak sculptors carved wonderfully detailed temple statues and reliefs.
Europeans first landed on Tamil shores in the 16th century, when the Portuguese settled at San Thome. The Dutch, British, French and Danes followed in the 17th century, striking deals with local rulers to set up coastal trading colonies. Eventually it came down to the British, based at Chennai (then Madras), against the French, based at Puducherry (then Pondicherry). The British won out in the three Carnatic Wars, fought between 1744 and 1763. By the end of the 18th century British dominance over most Tamil lands was assured.
The area governed by the British from Madras, the Madras Presidency, included parts of Andhra Pradesh, Kerala and Karnataka, an arrangement that continued (as Madras State) after Indian independence in 1947, until Kerala, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh and present-day Tamil Nadu (130,058 sq km) were created on linguistic lines in the 1950s. It wasn't until 1968 that the current state (population 72.1 million) was officially named Tamil Nadu.
Tamil Nadu's political parties are often headed up by former film stars, most prominent among them controversial former Chief Minister and AIADMK (All India Anna Dravida Munnetra Kazhagam) leader Jayalalithaa Jayaram. Known as 'Amma' (mother), Jayalalithaa was worshipped with almost deity-like status across the state until her death on 5 December 2016.
Chennai (Madras)
%044 / Pop 8.7 million
If you have time to explore Chennai (formerly Madras), this 400-sq-km conglomerate of urban villages and diverse neighbourhoods making up Tamil Nadu's capital will pleasantly surprise you. Its role is as keeper of South Indian artistic, religious and culinary traditions.
Among Chennai’s greatest assets are its people, infectiously enthusiastic about their hometown; they won’t hit you with a lot of hustle and hassle. Recent years have thrown in a new layer of cosmopolitan glamour: luxe hotels, sparkling boutiques, quirky cafes, smart contemporary restaurants and a sprinkling of swanky bars and clubs.
With its sweltering southern heat, roaring traffic and lack of outstanding sights, Chennai has often been seen as the dowdier sibling among India’s four biggest cities. But even if you’re just caught here between connections, it’s well worth poking around the museums, exploring the temples, savouring deliciously authentic South Indian delicacies or taking a sunset saunter along Marina Beach.
History
The southern neighbourhood of Mylapore existed long before the rest of Chennai; there is evidence that it traded with Roman and even Chinese and Greek merchants. In 1523, the Portuguese established their nearby coastal settlement San Thome. Another century passed before Francis Day and the British East India Company rocked up in 1639, searching for a good southeast-Indian trading base, and struck a deal with the local Vijayanagar ruler to set up a fort-cum-trading-post at Madraspatnam fishing village. This was Fort St George, built from 1640 to 1653.
The three Carnatic Wars between 1744 and 1763 saw Britain and its colonialist rival France allying with competing South Indian princes in their efforts to get the upper hand over local rulers – and each other. The French occupied Fort St George from 1746 to 1749 but the British eventually triumphed, and the French withdrew to Pondicherry.
As capital of the Madras Presidency, one of the four major divisions of British-era India, Madras grew into an important naval and commercial centre. After Independence, it became capital of Madras State and its successor Tamil Nadu. The city was renamed Chennai in 1996. Today, it's a major IT hub, and is often called 'the Detroit of India' for its booming motor-vehicle industry.
Chennai (Madras)
1Sights
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
7Shopping
8Information
1Sights
Central Chennai
oGovernment MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.chennaimuseum.org; Pantheon Rd, Egmore; Indian/foreigner ₹15/250, camera/video ₹200/500; h9.30am-5pm Sat-Thu)
Housed across the striking British-built Pantheon Complex, this excellent museum is Chennai’s best. The big highlight is building 3, the Bronze Gallery, with a superb collection of South Indian bronzes from the 7th-century Pallava era through to modern times (and English-language explanatory material).
It was from the 9th to 11th centuries, in the Chola period, that bronze sculpture peaked. Among the Bronze Gallery's impressive pieces are many of Shiva as Nataraja, the cosmic dancer, and an outstanding Chola bronze of Ardhanarishvara, the androgynous incarnation of Shiva and Parvati.
The main Archaeological Galleries (building 1) represent all the major South Indian periods from 2nd-century BC Buddhist sculptures to 16th-century Vijayanagar work, with rooms devoted to Hindu, Buddhist and Jain sculpture. Building 2, the Anthropology Galleries, traces South Indian human history back to prehistoric times, displaying tribal artefacts from across the region; outside it is a tiger-head cannon captured from Tipu Sultan's army in 1799 upon his defeat at Srirangapatnam.
The museum also includes the National Art Gallery, Contemporary Art Gallery and Children’s Museum, on the same ticket. Some sections may be closed for renovation.
Madras High CourtNOTABLE BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Parry's Corner, George Town)
Completed in 1892, this imposing red Indo-Saracenic structure is said to be the world's largest judicial building after the Courts of London. The central tower was added in 1912. At research time, visitors were not permitted to wander the grounds, but if you fancy trying, take your passport.
oFort St GeorgeFORT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rajaji Salai; h10am-5pm)F
Finished in 1653 by the British East India Company, the fort has undergone many facelifts. Inside the vast perimeter walls (the ramparts are 18th-century replacements) is now a precinct housing Tamil Nadu's Legislative Assembly & Secretariat, and a smattering of older buildings. The Fort Museum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Fort St George, Rajaji Salai; Indian/foreigner ₹15/200; h9am-5pm Sat-Thu) has displays on Chennai's origins and the fort, and interesting military memorabilia and artwork from colonial times. The 1st-floor portrait gallery of colonial-era VIPs includes a very assured-looking Robert Clive (Clive of India).
Also within the fort is St Mary's Church ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Fort St George, Rajaji Salai; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat), completed in 1680, and India's oldest surviving British church, surrounded by even earlier gravestones; Clive was married here. To its right (west) is the neoclassical former Admiralty House (Clive's House).
Marina BeachBEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Take an early morning or evening stroll (you don’t want to roast here at any other time) along the 3km-long main stretch of Marina Beach and you’ll pass cricket matches, flying kites, fortune-tellers, fish markets, corn-roasters and families enjoying the sea breeze. But don’t swim: strong rips make it dangerous. At the southern end, the ridiculously popular Madras Lighthouse ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Marina Beach; adult/child ₹20/10, camera ₹25; h10am-1pm & 3-5pm Tue-Sun) is India's only lighthouse with a lift; the panoramic city and beach views are fabulous.
Parthasarathy TempleHINDU TEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Singarachari St, Triplicane; h5.30am-noon & 4-9.30pm)
Built under the 8th-century Pallavas and unusually dedicated to Krishna (a form of Vishnu) as the charioteer Parthasarathy, this is one of Chennai's oldest temples. Most of its elaborate carvings, however, date from its 16th-century Vijayanagar expansion, including the fine stone-carved colonnade fronting the entrance. It's special for its shrines dedicated to five of the incarnations of Vishnu.
Vivekananda HouseMUSEUM
(Vivekanandar Illam, Ice House; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.vivekanandahouse.org; Kamarajar Salai; adult/child ₹20/10; h10am-12.15pm & 3-7.15pm Tue-Sat)
The marshmallow-pink Vivekananda House is interesting not only for its displays on the famous ‘wandering monk’, Swami Vivekananda, but also for its semicircular form, built in 1842 to store ice imported from the USA. Vivekananda stayed here briefly in 1897, preaching his ascetic Hindu philosophy to adoring crowds. Displays include a photo exhibition on the swami's life, a 3D reproduction of Vivekananda's celebrated 1893 Chicago World's Parliament of Religions speech, and the room where he stayed, now used for meditation.
DRAVIDIAN PRIDE
Since before Indian independence in 1947, Tamil politicians have railed against caste (considered to favour light-skinned Brahmins) and the Hindi language (seen as North Indian cultural imperialism). The pre-Independence ‘Self Respect’ movement and Justice Party, influenced by Marxism, mixed South Indian communal values with class-war rhetoric, and spawned Tamil political parties that remain the major powers in Tamil Nadu today. In the early post-Independence decades there was even a movement for an independent Dravida Nadu nation comprising the four main South Indian peoples, but there was little solidarity between different groups. Today Dravidian politics is largely restricted to Tamil Nadu, where parties are often led by former film stars (who often have immense, passionate followings).
During the conflict in nearby Sri Lanka, many Indian Tamil politicians loudly defended the Tamil Tigers, the organisation that assassinated Rajiv Gandhi in Sriperumbudur near Chennai in 1991. There is still considerable prejudice among the generally tolerant Tamils towards anything Sinhalese. The most obvious sign of Tamil pride you'll see today is the white shirt and white mundu (sarong), worn by most Tamil public figures.
Southern Chennai
oKapaleeshwarar TempleHINDU TEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ponnambala Vathiar St, Mylapore; h6am-noon & 4-9.30pm)
Mylapore is one of Chennai's most characterful and traditional neighbourhoods; it predated colonial Madras by several centuries. Its Kapaleeshwarar Temple is Chennai's most active and impressive, believed to have been built after the Portuguese destroyed the seaside original in 1566. It displays the main architectural elements of many a Tamil Nadu temple – a rainbow-coloured gopuram, pillared mandapas (pavilions), and a huge tank – and is dedicated to the state's most popular deity, Shiva.
Legend tells that in an angry fit Shiva turned his consort Parvati into a peacock, and commanded her to worship him here to regain her normal form. Parvati supposedly did so at a spot just outside the northeast corner of the temple's central block, where a shrine commemorates the event. Hence the name Mylapore, 'town of peacocks'. The story is depicted at the west end of the inner courtyard, on the exterior of the main sanctum.
The temple's colourful Brahmotsavam festival (March/April) sees the deities paraded around Mylapore's streets.
Sri Ramakrishna MathRELIGIOUS SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.chennaimath.org; 31 RK Mutt Rd, Mylapore; hUniversal Temple 4.30-11.45am & 3-9pm, evening prayers 6.30-7.30pm)
The tranquil, flowery grounds of the Ramakrishna Math are a world away from Mylapore's chaos. Orange-robed monks glide around and there’s a reverential feel. The Math is a monastic order following the teachings of the 19th-century sage Sri Ramakrishna, who preached the essential unity of all religions. Its Universal Temple is a handsome, modern, salmon-pink building incorporating architectural elements from different religions, and is open to all, to worship, pray or meditate.
oSan Thome CathedralCATHEDRAL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Santhome High Rd, Mylapore; h5.30am-8.30pm)
This soaring Roman Catholic cathedral, a stone's throw from the beach, was founded by the Portuguese in 1523, then rebuilt by the British in neo-Gothic style in 1896, and is said to mark the final resting place of St Thomas the Apostle. It's believed 'Doubting Thomas' brought Christianity to the subcontinent in AD 52 and was killed at St Thomas Mount, Chennai, in AD 72. Behind the cathedral is the tomb of St Thomas ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Santhome High Rd, Mylapore; h5.30am-8.30pm).
Although most of St Thomas' mortal remains now apparently lie in Italy, a cross on the tomb wall contains a tiny bone fragment marked 'Relic of St Thomas'. The museum above displays Thomas-related artefacts including the lancehead believed to have killed him.
St Thomas' Pole, at the beach end of the street on the cathedral's south side, is said to have miraculously saved the cathedral from the 2004 tsunami.
Theosophical SocietyGARDENS
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.ts-adyar.org; south end of Thiru Vi Ka Bridge, Adyar; hgrounds 8.30-10am & 2-4pm Mon-Sat)F
Between the Adyar River and the coast, the 100-hectare grounds of the Theosophical Society provide a peaceful, green, vehicle-free retreat from the city. Despite restricted opening hours, it's a lovely spot to wander, containing a church, mosque, Buddhist shrine, Zoroastrian temple and Hindu temple as well as a huge variety of native and introduced flora, including the offshoots of a 450-year-old banyan tree severely damaged by a storm in the 1980s.
The Adyar Library ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.ts-adyar.org; Theosophical Society, off Besant Ave Rd, Adyar; 1yr reader's card ₹50, deposit ₹250; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) here has an impressive collection of religion and philosophy books (some on display), from 1000-year-old Buddhist scrolls to handmade 19th-century Bibles.
Kalakshetra FoundationARTS CENTRE
(%044-24521169; www.kalakshetra.in; Muthulakshmi St, Thiruvanmiyur; Indian/foreigner incl craft centre ₹100/500; hcampus 8.30-11.30am Mon-Fri Jul-Feb, craft centre 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, all closed 2nd & 4th Sat of month)
Founded in 1936, Kalakshetra is a leading serious school of Tamil classical dance and music (sponsoring many students from disadvantaged backgrounds), set in beautiful, shady grounds in south Chennai. During morning class times visitors can (quietly) wander the complex and its Rukmini Devi Museum. Across the road is the Kalakshetra Craft Centre, where you can see Kanchipuram-style hand-loom weaving, textile block-printing and the fascinating, rare art of kalamkari (hand-painting on textiles with vegetable dyes). For upcoming performances, check the website.
The Thiruvanmiyur bus stand, terminus of many city bus routes, is 500m southwest of the Kalakshetra entrance.
Book BuildingGALLERY
(%044-24426696; www.tarabooks.com; Plot 9, CGE Colony, Kuppam Beach Rd, Thiruvanmiyur; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat)F
Within this mural-covered space, Tara Books stages free exhibitions, author talks and workshops with visiting artists, and displays its own highly original handmade books. With prior notice, you can visit the workshop where the books are created (20 minutes' drive away).
St Thomas MountRELIGIOUS SITE
(Parangi Malai; off Lawrence Rd, Guindy; h6am-8pm)F
The reputed site of St Thomas’ martyrdom in AD 72 rises in the southwest of Chennai, 2.5km north of St Thomas Mount train station and metro station. The Church of Our Lady of Expectation, built atop the 'mount' by the Portuguese in 1523, contains what are supposedly a fragment of Thomas’ finger bone and the 'Bleeding Cross' he carved. The city and airport views are wonderful.
CHENNAI'S OTHER CHURCHES
Armenian Church ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Armenian St, George Town; h9.30am-2.30pm, hours vary) A frangipani-scented haven in the midst of George Town, this 18th-century church is testament to the city's once-flourishing Armenian merchant community. Its courtyard displays ancient gravestones covered in Armenian script.
St Andrew's Church (St Andrew's Kirk; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thekirk.in; 37 Poonamallee High Rd, Egmore; h9.30am-5pm) This 1821 neoclassical Scottish Presbyterian church stands in leafy Egmore grounds. Inspired by London's St Martin-in-the-Fields, it has an exquisite columned portico, an unusual oval colonnade under a domed ceiling supported by Corinthian columns, and a slim multilevel spire.
Luz Church (Shrine of our Lady of Light; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.luzchurch.org; off Luz Church Rd, Mylapore; hdawn-dusk) Styled with blue-and-white baroque elegance, palm-fringed 1516 Luz Church is Chennai's oldest European building.
2Activities
Krishnamacharya Yoga MandiramYOGA, MEDITATION
(KYM; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-24937998; www.kym.org; 31 4th Cross St, RK Nagar; class US$30; h8am-7pm)
Highly regarded, serious two-week and month-long yoga courses, yoga therapy, and intensive teacher training.
CCourses
Run by Storytrails, the four-hour Spice Trail (per person ₹2500) is a fascinating introduction to South Indian cooking, with hands-on, small-group cookathons.
Kalakshetra FoundationART
(%044-24525423; www.kalakshetra.in; Muthulakshmi St, Thiruvanmiyur; per day ₹500)
Kalakshetra's crafts centre offers one-month to two-month courses in the intricate old art of kalamkari, which survives in only a handful of places. Courses run 10am to 1pm Monday to Friday.
International Institute of Tamil StudiesLANGUAGE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %044-22542992, 9952448862; www.ulakaththamizh.org; CIT Campus, 2nd Main Rd, Tharamani; 3-/6-month course ₹5000/10,000)
Intensive three-month and six-month Tamil-language courses.
TOP STATE FESTIVALS
International Yoga Festival (4–7 Jan, Puducherry) Shows, workshops and competitions.
Pongal (statewide; hmid-Jan) Marks the end of the harvest season and is one of Tamil Nadu's most important festivals, named after a rice-and-lentil dish cooked in new clay pots. Animals, especially cows, are honoured for their contributions.
Thyagaraja Aradhana (Jan, Thiruvaiyaru) Carnatic music.
Teppam (Float) Festival (Jan/Feb, Madurai) Meenakshi temple deities are paraded around town.
Natyanjali Dance Festival (Feb/Mar, Chidambaram) Five days of professional classical dance.
Chithirai Festival (Apr/May, Madurai) Two-week event celebrating the marriage of Meenakshi to Sundareswarar (Shiva).
Karthikai Deepam Festival (Nov/Dec, statewide) Festival of lights.
Chennai Festival of Music & Dance (mid-Dec–mid-Jan, Chennai) A huge celebration of South Indian music and dance.
Mamallapuram Dance Festival (Dec–Jan, Mamallapuram) Four weeks of classical and folk dance from across India on open-air stages.
TTours
StorytrailsWALKING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-45010202, 9940040215; www.storytrails.in; 21/2 1st Cross St, TTK Rd, Alwarpet; 3hr tour for up to 4 people from ₹4400)
Entertaining neighbourhood walking tours on themes like dance, temples, jewellery and bazaars. Also runs popular food-tasting tours through George Town and in-house cooking classes.
zFestivals & Events
Madras WeekCULTURAL
(www.themadrasday.in; hAug)
An inspired series of heritage walks, talks and exhibitions held across town to honour the 1639 founding of then-Madras.
Chennai Festival of Music & DanceMUSIC, DANCE
(Madras Music & Dance Season; hmid-Dec–mid-Jan)
One of the largest of its type in the world, this festival celebrates South Indian music and dance.
4Sleeping
Hotels in Chennai are pricier than elsewhere in Tamil Nadu and don’t offer particularly good value. The Triplicane High Rd area is best for budget accommodation. There are some cheapies in Egmore, plus a few midrange options. You'll find upper-midrange B&Bs in Nungambakkam, Poes Garden and Alwarpet. Top-end hotels have become plentiful, especially in southern areas.
Many hotels have 24-hour checkout and fill up by noon; call ahead.
Egmore
New Lakshmi LodgeHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-28194576, 9840900343; 16 Kennet Lane, Egmore; s/d ₹500/900, r with AC ₹1460-1580; a)
With small and bare but spotless, pastel-walled rooms spread over four floors around a parking courtyard, this huge block is not a bad budget choice. Book ahead, as it's often full. Upper floors offer more privacy.
YWCA International Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-25324234; http://ywcamadras.org/international-guest-house; 1086 Poonamallee High Rd; incl breakfast s ₹1760-2380, d ₹2170-2850, s/d without AC ₹1020/1560; aiW)
Chennai's YWCA guesthouse, set in shady grounds just north of Egmore station, offers excellent value combined with a calm atmosphere. Efficiently run by helpful staff, it has good-sized, brilliantly clean rooms, spacious common areas and solid-value meals (veg/nonveg ₹225/330). Lobby-only wi-fi costs ₹150 per day.
Hotel Chandra ParkHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-40506060; www.hotelchandrapark.com; 9 Gandhi Irwin Rd, Egmore; incl breakfast s ₹1580-2560, d ₹1820-3020; aW)
Chandra Park’s prices remain mysteriously lower than most similar establishments. 'Standard' rooms are small and a bit dated but have air-con, clean towels and tight, white sheets. Throw in polite service, 24-hour checkout and free wi-fi, and this is good value by Egmore standards.
Hotel VictoriaHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-28193638; www.empeehotels.com; 3 Kennet Lane, Egmore; incl breakfast s ₹2500-4300, d ₹2800-4700; aW)
Easily your smartest choice on hectic Kennet Lane. Rooms are clean and decent (with kettles, wi-fi and TVs), though not as exciting as the shiny lobby and cordial service suggest.
Nungambakkam & Around
Frangi HouseB&B$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-43084694; www.frangihouse.com; 6B Nawab Habibullah Ave, 1st St, off Anderson Rd, Nungambakkam; r incl breakfast ₹3940-4280; aW)
This elegant, immaculate retreat is tucked into a tranquil street in upmarket Nungambakkam, offering grassy gardens, comfy lounges and eight airy, all-different rooms. 'Boutique' rooms mix vintage four-poster beds with modern bathrooms sporting stylish square sinks. 'Old world' pads are styled in florals and pastels; the pick is blue-hued 'Dew', with its four-poster and shared balcony.
Hanu Reddy ResidencesB&B$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9176869926, 044-43084563; www.hanureddyresidences.com; 6A/24 3rd St, Wallace Garden, Nungambakkam; incl breakfast s ₹3600-4200, d ₹4200-4800; aW)
Spread across two residential buildings engulfed by greenery in upscale Wallace Garden, this is exactly the kind of homey hideaway that central Chennai needs. The 13 unpretentious rooms come with air-con, free wi-fi, tea/coffee sets, splashes of colourful artwork – and antimosquito racquets! Terraces have bamboo lounging chairs. Service hits that ideal personal-yet-professional balance. There's another branch ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-24661021; www.hanureddyresidences.com; 41/19 Poes Garden; incl breakfast s ₹4200-5400, d ₹4800-7800; aW) in exclusive Poes Garden.
Taj CoromandelHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-66002827; www.tajhotels.com; 37 Nungambakkam High Rd; r from ₹12,000; aWs)
Luxurious without going overly ostentatious, the glittering Coromandel offers a sensibly central top-end retreat from the city. Rooms flaunt a smart stripped-back style and there's a lovely palm-shaded pool. The marble-effect lobby hosts fine-dining South Indian restaurant Southern Spice ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-66002827; www.tajhotels.com; Taj Coromandel, 37 Nungambakkam High Rd, Nungambakkam; mains ₹550-900, thalis ₹1500-2200; h12.30-2.45pm & 7-11pm), along with a busy cocktail bar.
Triplicane & Around
Paradise Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-28594252; www.paradiseguesthouse.co.in; 17/1 Vallabha Agraharam St, Triplicane; s/d ₹600/700, with AC ₹1000/1100; aW)
Paradise offers some of Triplicane's best-value digs: simple rooms with clean tiles, a breezy rooftop, friendly staff and hot water by the steaming bucket.
Broad Lands LodgeGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-28545573; broadlandshotel@yahoo.com; 18 Vallabha Agraharam St, Triplicane; s ₹400-750, d ₹450-800; W)
In business since 1951, Broad Lands was a hippie-era stalwart. This laid-back colonial-era mansion, with leafy courtyards and rooms up rambling staircases, still has its devotees, who don’t seem to mind the 44 bare-bones, idiosyncratic rooms, dank bathrooms, or high-volume muezzins of Wallajah Big Mosque. The cheapest rooms share bathrooms; wi-fi costs ₹50. The red-banistered back block has breezier rooms.
La WoodsHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-28608040; www.lawoodshotel.com; 1 Woods Rd; r incl breakfast ₹3600; aW)
Wonderfully erratic colour schemes throw fresh whites against lime greens and bright turquoises at this friendly, well-managed modern hotel. The shiny, spotless, contemporary rooms are perfectly comfy, with mountains of pillows, kettles, hairdryers and 'global' plug sockets.
Southern Chennai
Red Lollipop HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-24629822; www.redlollipop.in; 129/68 RK Mutt Rd, Mandavelli; dm ₹650; aW)
Saving the day for Chennai's budget travellers, Red Lollipop is a genuine, sociable hostel, 700m south of Mylapore's temple. Boldly colourful walls are scrawled with inspirational messages. Each of the spotless, locker-equipped six- to 10-bed dorms (one women-only) has its own bathroom. There's a rooftop terrace, plus a shared kitchen, a lounge, towel rental (₹30) and Chennai tips.
oFootprint B&BB&B$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9840037483; www.chennaibedandbreakfast.com; Gayatri Apartments, 16 South St, Alwarpet, behind Crowne Plaza Hotel; r incl breakfast ₹3900; aW)
A beautifully comfortable, relaxed base occupying three apartments on a quiet street in a leafy south-Chennai neighbourhood. Bowls of wild roses, organic Auroville soaps and old-Madras photos set the scene for nine cosy, pristine rooms with king-size or wide twin beds. Home-cooked breakfasts are generous, service is excellent, and the welcoming owners are full of Tamil Nadu tips. Book ahead.
Madras B&BB&B$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %9840037483; www.madrasbedandbreakfast.com; Flat 1/3, Nandini Apartments, 72/45 1st Main Rd, RA Puram; r incl breakfast ₹3040; aW)
Popular with yoga students, this multilocation operation offers good-sized, straightforward but comfy, stylish rooms in peaceful private apartments that feel like cosy self-service lodges, dotted around RA Puram and Alwarpet. Help yourself to fully equipped kitchens, washing machines, small libraries and relaxed communal lounges full of flower bowls. No walk-ins: book ahead.
oRaintreeHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-42252525; www.raintreehotels.com; 120 St Mary’s Rd, Alwarpet; s/d ₹9590/10,790; aiWs)S
At this ‘eco-sensitive’ business-style hotel, floors are bamboo or rubber, water and electricity conservation hold pride of place, and AC-generated heat warms the bathroom water. Sleek, fresh, minimalist rooms are bright, comfy and stylish, with wonderful city vistas. A sea-view infinity pool (doubling as insulation) and an open-air bar-restaurant grace the rooftop. Downstairs is excellent pan-Asian restaurant Chap Chay ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-42252525; www.raintreehotels.com; Raintree, 120 St Mary's Rd, Alwarpet; mains ₹500-900, set menu ₹1900; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm).
Hyatt RegencyHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-61001234; http://chennai.regency.hyatt.com; 365 Anna Salai, Teynampet; r ₹9720-15,800; aiWs)
Smart, swish and bang up to date, this towering, triangular hotel is the most central of Chennai's newer top-end offerings. Contemporary art surrounds the sun-flooded atrium, local chefs head up three good restaurants and an insanely popular bar, and glossy rooms have walk-through bathrooms and fabulous sea/city panoramas through massive picture windows. Flowers fringe the pool, and there's a luxury spa.
ITC Grand CholaHOTEL$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %044-22200000; www.itchotels.in; 63 Mount Rd, Guindy; r incl breakfast from ₹13,970; aWs)S
Chennai's most talked-about hotel is this ultraluxurious, 600-room, temple-inspired beauty in the city's southwest. A maze of sumptuous iPad-operated rooms, complete with soaking tubs and French press coffee kits, unfolds beyond the sweeping lantern-lit marble lobby. One corridor caters exclusively to women travellers. Also here are seven swish restaurants, two glitzy bars, three gyms, a spa and five pools.
Park HyattHOTEL$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %044-71771234; http://chennai.park.hyatt.com; 39 Velachery Rd, Guindy; s/d incl breakfast from ₹9720/10,940; aWs)
The gleaming, ultramodern Park Hyatt has swanky, straight-lined rooms kitted out with Nespresso machines, iPod docks and king-size beds; a divine spa; and a rooftop infinity pool overlooking Guindy National Park. The multifloor Flying Elephant ( GOOGLE MAP ; %044-71771234; https://chennai.park.hyatt.com; Park Hyatt, 39 Velachery Rd, Guindy; per couple ₹3300 incl ₹2000 drink credit, women free; h7pm-late Mon-Sat, noon-3pm & 7pm-late Sun) restaurant doubles as a popular party pad. It's a hike from central Chennai, but perfect if you're after a plush stay near the airport.
5Eating
Chennai is packed with inexpensive ‘meals’ joints ('messes'), serving lunch and dinner thalis (all you can eat meals), and tiffin (snacks) like idlis (spongy, round fermented rice cakes), vadas (doughnut-shaped deep-fried lentil savoury) and dosas (savoury crêpe). Hotel Saravana Bhavan is always a quality veg choice. In the Muslim Triplicane High Rd area, you’ll find great biryanis (fragrant, spiced steamed rice with meat and vegetables).
There's plenty of upmarket dining: classier Indian restaurants are on the rise, and international cuisines are soaring in popularity.
Useful, well-stocked supermarkets include Spencer's ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 15 EVK Sampath Salai, Vepery; h7.30am-10pm), near Egmore and Central stations, Big Bazaar at T Nagar ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 34 Sir Thyagaraya Rd, Pondy Bazaar, T Nagar; h10.30am-10pm) and Express Avenue mall ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Express Avenue, White's Rd; h10am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, to 10pm Sat & Sun), Nilgiri's ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 25 Shafee Mohammed Rd, Nungambakkam; h7.30am-10pm) off Nungambakkam's Khader Nawaz Khan Rd and Amma Naana ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ammanaana.com; 82/100 Chamiers Rd, Alwarpet; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat) in Alwarpet.
Egmore
oHotel Saravana BhavanINDIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-28192055; www.saravanabhavan.com; 21 Kennet Lane, Egmore; mains ₹70-140; h6am-10.30pm)
Dependably delish, Chennai's famous vegetarian chain doles out epically good South Indian thalis and breakfasts (idlis and vadas ₹15 to ₹35, dosas ₹20 to ₹40), filter coffee and other Indian vegetarian fare. This branch is handy for Egmore station. Others include George Town ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-25387766; www.saravanabhavan.com; 209 NSC Bose Rd, George Town; mains ₹60-100, thalis ₹60-145; h7am-10pm), Mylapore ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-24611177; www.saravanabhavan.com; 70 North Mada St, Mylapore; mains ₹60-100, thalis ₹60-145; h6am-10.30pm), Pondy Bazaar ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-281576677; www.saravanabhavan.com; 102 Sir Thyagaraya Rd, Pondy Bazaar, T Nagar; mains ₹60-100, thalis ₹170-210; h6am-11pm) and, more upscale with a ₹320 buffet, Thousand Lights ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-28353377; www.saravanabhavan.com; 293 Peter's Rd, Thousand Lights; mains ₹100-180, thalis ₹60-150; h8am-10.30pm), plus London, Paris and New York!
AnnalakshmiINDIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-28525109; www.annalakshmichennai.co.in; 1st fl, Sigapi Achi Bldg, 18/3 Rukmani Lakshmipathy Rd, Egmore; mains ₹180-280, set menus ₹700-1200, buffet weekday/weekend ₹420/470; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-9pm Tue-Sun)
Very fine South and North Indian vegetarian fare, plus glorious fresh juices, in a beautiful dining room decorated with carvings and paintings, inside a high-rise behind the Air India building. Buffet lunches and dinners are served in another part of the same block. Annalakshmi is run by devotees of Swami Shanthanand Saraswathi; proceeds support medical programs for the poor.
Nungambakkam & Around
oAmethystMULTICUISINE, CAFE$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-45991633; www.amethystchennai.com; White's Rd, Royapettah; mains ₹250-470; h10am-11.30pm; W)
Set in an exquisitely converted warehouse with a wraparound verandah from which tables spill out into lush gardens, Amethyst is a nostalgically posh haven that's outrageously popular with expats and well-off Chennaiites. Well-executed European-flavoured dishes range over quiches, pastas, sandwiches, crepes, creative salads, all-day breakfasts and afternoon teas. Fight for your table, then check out the stunning Indian couture boutique ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.amethystchennai.com; White's Rd, Royapettah; h11am-7.30pm).
Triplicane & Around
Ratna CaféSOUTH INDIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 255 Triplicane High Rd, Triplicane; dishes ₹70-110; h6am-11pm)
Often crowded and cramped, Ratna is famous for its scrumptious idlis accompanied by hearty doses of its signature sambar (soupy lentil dish with cubed vegetables). People have been sitting down to this ₹45 dish at all hours since 1948. There are also North Indian mains, and an air-con room out the back.
Nair MessSOUTH INDIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 22 Mohammed Abdullah Sahib, 2nd St, Chepauk; meals ₹60-75; h11.30am-3pm & 7-10pm)
Big flavours are rustled up in a starkly simple setting at this no-nonsense, forever-busy meals spot, pocketed away in a lane opposite the Chepauk cricket stadium since 1961. Loaded banana-leaf thalis complemented by fish-fry dishes are the speciality.
Southern Chennai
Murugan Idli ShopSOUTH INDIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://muruganidlishop.com; 77 GN Chetty Rd, T Nagar; dishes ₹50-85; h7am-11.30pm)
Those in the know generally agree that this particular branch of the small Madurai-born Murugan chain serves some of the best idlis, dosas, uttapams and South Indian meals in town.
Double RotiBURGERS$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-30853732; http://doubleroti.in; 4/27 1st St, Cenotaph Rd, Teynampet; mains ₹245-395; h11am-11pm; W)
'Double roti' refers to burger buns – the semi-open kitchen at this always-packed industrial-chic cafe plates them up with fun, flair and buckets of flavour. Lemonades and milkshakes are served in jars; burgers arrive in mini-frying pans; buckets come filled with masala fries; and witty slogans are chalked up on boards. There's plenty for vegetarians too, including fantastic spicy-falafel burgers.
Junior KuppannaSOUTH INDIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-28340071; 4 Kannaiya St, North Usman Rd, T Nagar; mains ₹130-220, thalis ₹200; hnoon-4pm & 6.30-11.30pm)
From an impeccably clean kitchen (which you're welcome to tour), come limitless, flavour-packed lunchtime thalis, dished up traditional-style on banana leaves. This typical, frenzied Chennai 'mess' also has a full menu. Carnivores tiring of the pure-veg lifestyle can seek solace in specialities like mutton brains and pan-fried seer fish. Arrive early: it's incredibly popular. Branches across Chennai.
Enté KeralamKERALAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %07604915091; http://entekeralam.in; 1 Kasturi Estate, 1st St, Poes Garden; mains ₹200-565; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm)
A calm ambience seeps through the four orange-toned, three- to four-table rooms of this elegant Keralan restaurant. Lightly spiced pachakkari vegetable stew is served with light, fluffy appam (rice pancake), the Alleppey curry is rich with mango, and there are plenty of fish dishes. Wind up with tender coconut ice cream. Set meals (veg/nonveg ₹795/1195) give a multidish miniformat taster.
Barbeque NationINDIAN, BARBECUE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-60600000; www.barbeque-nation.com; Shri Devi Park Hotel, 1 Hanumantha Rd, off North Usman Rd, T Nagar; veg/nonveg lunch ₹705/780, dinner ₹900/1050; h12.30-4.30pm & 6.30-11.30pm)
For an incredible-value red-hot BBQ blow-out, hunt down this busy-busy all-you-can-eat spot. The highlights are the spicy meat, seafood and veg (paneer, pineapple) skewers that you sizzle to personal taste on live-grills set into the middle of your table. And then there's a full-fledged pan-Indian buffet.
oPeshawriNORTH INDIAN$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %044-22200000; www.itchotels.in; ITC Grand Chola, 63 Mount Rd, Guindy; mains ₹870-1800, set meals ₹3240-4140; hnoon-3pm & 7-11.30pm)
Perfect for a five-star splash-out, the ITC's signature Northwest Frontier restaurant serves inventive, flavour-popping creations at intimate booths alongside a glassed-in kitchen that gets you right in on the culinary action. Try huge hunks of pillowy chilli-grilled paneer, expertly spiced kebabs, or the deliciously rich house-special dhal bukhara, simmered overnight. There's an astounding international wine/cocktail list.
oCopper ChimneyNORTH INDIAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-28115770; 74 Cathedral Rd, Gopalapuram; mains ₹300-700; hnoon-3pm & 7-11.30pm)
Meat-eaters will drool over the yummy North Indian tandoori dishes served in stylishly minimalist surroundings, but the veg food here is fantastic too. Jain specialities mingle with biryanis, chicken kebabs, chargrilled prawns and fluffy-fresh naan. The machchi tikka – skewers of tandoori-baked fish – is superb, as is the spiced paneer kebab.
ChamiersMULTICUISINE, CAFE$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-42030734; www.chamiershop.com; 106 Chamiers Rd, RA Puram; mains ₹300-500; h8.30am-11pm; W)
This bubbly 1st-floor cafe feels a continent away from Chennai, except that Chennaiites love it too. Flowery wallpaper, printed cushions, wicker chairs, wi-fi (per hour ₹100), wonderful carrot cake, croissants and cappuccino, English breakfasts, American pancakes, pastas, quiches, quesadillas, salads…
DakshinSOUTH INDIAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-24994101; www.ihg.com; Crowne Plaza, 132 TTK Rd, Alwarpet; mains ₹690-1500, thalis ₹1800-2300; h12.30-2.45pm & 7-11.15pm)
Dakshin specialises in the cuisines of Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, Telangana and Karnataka. Traditional sculptures, mirrored pillars and flute and tabla musicians set the temple-inspired scene. Food suggestion: the Andhra Pradesh fish curry – and perhaps a little something from the impressive whisky and wine list. Lunch revolves around fancy thalis.
DON'T MISS
CHENNAI STREET FOOD
Chennai may not have the same killer street-food reputation as Mumbai, but there are some sensational South Indian street-side delicacies around, especially in Mylapore, George Town, Egmore and T Nagar, and along Marina Beach. Storytrails runs George Town food-tasting tours (for one or two people ₹4000).
Mehta BrothersSTREET FOOD$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 310 Mint St, George Town; dishes ₹15-25; h7.30am-9.30pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun)
This tiny spot pulls in the crowds with the deep-fried delights of its signature Maharashtrian vada pavs – spiced potato fritters in buns, doused in garlicky chutney.
Seena Bhai Tiffin CentreSTREET FOOD$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 111/1 NSC Bose Rd, George Town; idlis & uttapams ₹40; h6pm-midnight)
It's all about deliciously griddled, ghee-coated idlis and uttapams at this 37-year-old eatery in the thick of George Town.
Jannal KadaiSTREET FOOD$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ponnambala Vathiar St, Mylapore; items ₹20-30; h8.30-10am & 5.30-8.30pm Mon-Sat)
You take what you're given from the chap in the 'window shop', a fast-and-furious hole-in-the-wall famous for its hot crispy bajjis (vegetable fritters), bondas (battered potato balls) and vadas. Look for the blue windows opposite Pixel Service, just south of the Mylapore temple.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Chennai nightlife is on the up, with a smattering of lively new openings, but you'll need a full wallet for a night out here. Continental-style cafes are growing in number, and, yes, Starbucks has arrived.
Bars and clubs in five-star hotels serve alcohol 24 hours a day, seven days a week, so that's where most of the after-dark fun happens. Solo guys ('stags') can be turned away, and there's usually a hefty admission charge for couples and men. Dress codes are strict: no shorts or sandals.
Other hotel bars, mostly male-dominated, generally close by midnight. If you're buying your own alcohol, look for 'premium' or 'elite' government-run TASMAC liquor stores inside malls.
365 ASLOUNGE, CLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-61001234; https://chennai.regency.hyatt.com; Hyatt Regency, 365 Anna Salai, Teynampet; drinks ₹400-700; h3pm-2am)
In the glamorous Hyatt Regency, Chennai's hottest party spot bursts into life on Friday and Saturday nights, when wild DJ sets kick off on the terrace. Otherwise, it's a swish, sultry lounge serving carefully crafted cocktails alongside Indian and international wines, beers and spirits. Dress code is smart casual (for guys, trousers and closed shoes).
Sera the Tapas BarBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-28111462; www.facebook.com/zaratapasbar; 71 Cathedral Rd, Gopalapuram; cocktails ₹400-500, tapas ₹220-330; h12.30-11.30pm)
Where else in the world can you find DJs playing club music beneath bullfight posters next to TVs showing cricket? Sera is packed most nights with a young, fashionable crowd sipping sangría and cocktails. It's a good idea to book. Tapas include garlic prawns, fried calamari and aubergine dips; the tortilla española (potato omelette) is authentically good.
Radio RoomBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8500005672; www.facebook.com/radioroomchennai; Somerset Greenways, 94 Sathyadev Ave, MRC Nagar, RA Puram; cocktails ₹450-600, dishes ₹200-300; h6-11.30pm Mon-Fri, 4-11.30pm Sat & Sun)
From a keen young team comes this incredibly popular radio-themed bar in southeast Chennai. It's all about mismatched furniture, a bar made of speakers and carefully mixed, inspired cocktails and pitchers – some full of local flavour, like chai punch. Creative twists on Chennai's culinary favourites include mozzarella-stuffed bajjis (vegetable fritters) delivered in bicycle-shaped baskets.
SudakaCOCKTAIL BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-42004355; www.facebook.com/besudaka; 37 North Boag Rd, T Nagar; cocktails ₹400-500, dishes ₹200-500; hnoon-3pm & 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-midnight Sat)
A genuine, sassy cocktail bar where expertly concocted, wittily named liquid mixes are served in a moodily lit lounge alongside artful Latin American and international cooking. Just name your spirit and they'll whip up something special.
Plan BBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; https://holycowhospitality.com; 65/5 Murugesan Naicker Complex, Greams Rd; cocktails ₹320-400, dishes ₹230-350; hnoon-11pm)
Like its studenty same-name Bengaluru (Bangalore) sibling, this easygoing, industrial-feel bar is a hit with young crowds for its reasonably priced cocktails, wines and beers (mugs, pints or 'towers'), pub-style food (burgers, nachos, chilli-cheese chips) and belting chart-toppers.
Brew RoomCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.saverahotel.com; Savera Hotel, Dr Radhakrishnan Salai; coffees ₹120-180, dishes ₹250-350; h8am-10.30pm; W)
Decked out in neo-rustic style, Brew Room does coffee like you've never had in Chennai, from double espresso and Italian cappuccino to Americano, French press and 'iceberg' coffee with ice cream. The contemporary Continental menu includes all-day breakfasts and brilliant vegetarian and vegan choices – even tofu!
Café Coffee DayCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafecoffeeday.com; Ispahani Centre, 123 Nungambakkam High Rd, Nungambakkam; drinks ₹60-120; h10am-10pm Mon-Fri, to 11pm Sat & Sun)
Reliably good hot and cold coffees and teas. Also at Egmore ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafecoffeeday.com; Alsa Mall, Montieth Rd, Egmore; drinks ₹60-120; h11am-9pm), Nungambakkam ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafecoffeeday.com; KNK Sq, Khader Nawaz Khan Rd, Nungambakkam; drinks ₹60-120; h9am-11pm; W), Express Avenue Mall ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafecoffeeday.com; 1st fl & 3rd fl, Express Avenue Mall, White's Rd; drinks ₹60-120; h10am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 10pm Sat & Sun), Alwarpet ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafecoffeeday.com; Ramakrishnan Towers, TTK Rd, Alwarpet; drinks ₹60-120; h10am-10pm) and Phoenix Market City (www.cafecoffeeday.com; Basement, Phoenix Market City, Velachery; drinks ₹60-120; h10am-11pm).
3Entertainment
There's bharatanatyam (Tamil classical dance) and/or a Carnatic music concert going on in Chennai almost every evening. Check listings in the Hindu or Times of India, or on www.timescity.com/chennai.
The Music Academy ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-28112231; www.musicacademymadras.in; 168/306 TTK Rd, Royapettah) is the most popular venue. The Kalakshetra Foundation and Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-24643420; www.bhavanchennai.org; East Mada St, Mylapore) also stage many events, often free.
7Shopping
T Nagar has great shopping, especially at Pondy Bazaar and in the Panagal Park area. Many of Kanchipuram's finest silks turn up in Chennai, and the streets around Panagal Park are filled with silk shops; this is where you buy your sari.
Nungambakkam’s shady Khader Nawaz Khan Rd is a lovely lane of increasingly upmarket designer boutiques, cafes and galleries.
Chennai's shopping malls are full of major international and Indian fashion chains. The best include Express Avenue ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.expressavenue.in; White's Rd, Royapettah; h10am-10pm), Chennai Citi Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://chennaiciticenter.com; 10 Dr Radhakrishnan Salai, Mylapore; h10am-10pm), Spencer Plaza ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 769 Anna Salai; h10am-10pm) and the newer, glitzier Phoenix Market City (www.phoenixmarketcity.com; 142 Velachery Main Rd, Velachery; h11am-10pm) in the city's south. Spencer Plaza is a bit downmarket, good for smaller craft and souvenir shops.
Central Chennai
oHigginbothamsBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; higginbothams@vsnl.com; 116 Anna Salai; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-7.30pm Sun)
Open since 1844, this grand white building is reckoned to be India's oldest bookshop. It has a brilliant English-language selection, including travel and fiction books, and a good range of maps.
Naturally AurovilleARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://naturallyaurovillechennai.com; 8 Khader Nawaz Khan Rd, Nungambakkam; h10.15am-9pm)
Colourful handicrafts and home-decor trinkets, including bedspreads, cushions, incense, scented candles and handmade-paper notebooks, all from Auroville, near Puducherry.
PoompuharARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://tnpoompuhar.org; 108 Anna Salai; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun)
This large branch of the fixed-price state-government handicrafts chain is good for everything from cheap technicolour plaster deities to a ₹700,000 bronze Nataraja.
EvoluzioneCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.evoluzionestyle.com; 3 Khader Nawaz Khan Rd, Nungambakkam; h10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun)
This sparkly high-end boutique showcases neotraditional creations by cutting-edge Indian designers. Great for browsing, even if your budget doesn't allow the fabulously glittery wedding gowns!
Southern Chennai
oNalli SilksTEXTILES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nallisilks.com; 9 Nageswaran Rd, T Nagar; h9.30am-9.30pm)
Set up in 1928, the enormous, supercolourful granddaddy of Chennai silk shops sparkles with wedding saris and rainbows of Kanchipuram silks, as well as silk dhotis (long loincloths) for men.
FabindiaCLOTHING, HANDICRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fabindia.com; 2nd fl, 35 TTK Rd, Alwarpet; h10.30am-8.30pm)S
This fair-trade, nationwide chain sells stylishly contemporary village-made clothes and crafts. Perfect for picking up a kurta (long shirt with short/no collar) to throw over trousers. This branch has incense, ceramics, table and bed linen, and natural beauty products too. Also at Woods Road ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fabindia.com; 3 Woods Rd; h10.30am-8.30pm), Express Avenue ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fabindia.com; 1st fl, Express Avenue Mall, White's Rd, Royapettah; h11.30am-9pm), Nungambakkam ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fabindia.com; 2nd fl, 9/15 Khader Nawaz Khan Rd, Nungambakkam; h10.30am-8.30pm), T Nagar ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fabindia.com; 44 GN Chetty Rd, T Nagar; h10.30am-8.30pm) and Besant Nagar (www.fabindia.com; T-25, 7th Ave, Besant Nagar; h10.30am-8.30pm).
ChamiersCLOTHING, HANDICRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://chamiershop.com; 106 Chamiers Rd, RA Puram; h10.30am-7.30pm)
On the ground floor of this popular cafe-and-boutique-complex, Anokhi ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.anokhi.com; 106 Chamiers Rd, RA Puram; h10.30am-7.30pm) has wonderful, East-meets-West hand-block-printed clothes, bedding, bags and accessories in floaty fabrics, at good prices. Elegant Amethyst Room ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.amethystchennai.com; 106 Chamiers Rd, RA Puram; h10.30am-7pm) next door takes things upmarket with beautiful Indian-design couture. Upstairs is Chamiers for Men ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://chamiershop.com; 106 Chamiers Rd, RA Puram; h10.30am-7.30pm).
StarmarkBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.starmark.in; 2nd fl, Express Avenue, White's Rd, Royapettah; h10.30am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun)
Smart bookshop with an excellent collection of English, Indian and Tamil fiction and nonfiction, India travel books and Lonely Planet guides. Also at Phoenix Market City.
TRADITIONAL TRADERS
Even as Chennai expands relentlessly to the south, west and north, George Town, the local settlement that grew up near British Fort St George, remains the city's wholesale centre. Many of its narrow streets are entirely devoted to selling one particular product, as they have for hundreds of years – jewellery on NSC Bose Rd, paper goods in Anderson St. Even if you aren't buying, wander the maze-like streets to see Indian life flowing seamlessly from the past into the present.
8Orientation
The old British Fort St George and George Town's jumble of narrow streets and bazaars constitute Chennai's historic hub. The two main train stations, Egmore and Central, sit inland (west) from the fort. Much of the best eating, drinking, shopping and accommodation lies in the city's leafier southern and southwestern suburbs such as Nungambakkam, T Nagar (Thyagaraya Nagar), Alwarpet, Guindy and Velachery. The hectic major thoroughfare linking northern with southern Chennai is Anna Salai (Mount Rd).
8Information
Internet Access
Many cafes and hotels have wi-fi. ‘Browsing centres’ (per hour ₹25 to ₹30) are everywhere; take your passport.
Left Luggage
Egmore and Central train stations have left-luggage offices ('Cloakroom') for people with journey tickets. The airport also has left-luggage facilities.
Medical Services
Apollo Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; %044-28290200, emergency 044-28293333; www.apollohospitals.com; 21 Greams Lane, Nungambakkam; h24hr) State-of-the-art, expensive hospital, popular with ‘medical tourists’.
Kauvery Hospital ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-40006000; www.kauveryhospital.com; 199 Luz Church Rd, Mylapore; h24hr) Good, private, general hospital.
Post
DHLPOST
( GOOGLE MAP ; %044-42148886; www.dhl.com; 85 VVV Sq, Pantheon Rd, Egmore; h9am-9pm)
Secure international parcel delivery; branches around town.
Tourist Information
IndiatourismTOURIST INFORMATION
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-28460285, 044-28461459; http://incredibleindia.org; 154 Anna Salai; h9.15am-5.45pm Mon-Fri)
Helpful on all of India, as well as Chennai.
Tamil Nadu Tourism Development CorporationTOURIST INFORMATION
(TTDC; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-25333333; www.tamilnadutourism.org; Tamil Nadu Tourism Complex, 2 Wallajah Rd, Triplicane; h24hr)
The state tourism body's main office takes bookings for its own bus tours, answers questions and hands out leaflets. In the same building are state tourist offices from all over India, mostly open 10am to 6pm. The TTDC has a counter at Egmore station.
Travel Agencies
Milesworth TravelTRAVEL AGENCY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-24338664; http://milesworth.com; RM Towers, 108 Chamiers Rd, Alwarpet; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)
Very professional, welcoming agency that will help with all your travel needs.
ATMS
Citibank ATMS are best for withdrawing large amounts of cash with foreign cards in Tamil Nadu. Axis Bank, Canara Bank, HDFC Bank, ICICI Bank and State Bank of India ATMs are other options.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Chennai International Airport (%044-22560551; Tirusulam) is in the far southwest of the city. The international terminal is 500m west of the domestic terminal; walkways link the two terminals.
There are direct flights to cities all over India, including Trichy (Tiruchirappalli), Madurai, Coimbatore and Thoothikudi (Tuticorin) within Tamil Nadu. Internationally, Chennai has many direct flights to/from Colombo, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and the Gulf states. The best fares from Europe are often on Jet Airways (via Mumbai or Delhi), Qatar Airways (via Doha), Emirates (via Dubai) or Oman Air (via Muscat). Cathay Pacific flies to Hong Kong, and Maldivian to Male.
Nonstop Domestic Flights From Chennai
| Destination | Airlines | Time (hr) | Departures (daily) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bengaluru | AI, SG, 6E, 9W | 1 | 19 |
| Delhi | AI, SG, 6E, 9W | 2¾-3 | 23 |
| Goa | AI, SG | 1¼-2 | 2 |
| Hyderabad | AI, G8, SG, 6E, 9W | 1-1½ | 23 |
| Kochi | AI, SG, 6E | 1-1½ | 7 |
| Kolkata | AI, SG, 6E | 2-2¾ | 10 |
| Mumbai | AI, G8, SG, 6E, 9W | 2 | 22 |
| Port Blair | AI, G8, SG, 6E, 9W | 2-2¼ | 6 |
| Trivandrum | AI, 6E | 1-1½ | 3 |
Airline codes: AI – Air India, G8 – Go Air, SG – SpiceJet, 6E – IndiGo, 9W – Jet Airways
Boat
Passenger ships sail from George Town harbour direct to Port Blair in the Andaman Islands once weekly. The Andaman Shipping Office Ticketing Counter ( GOOGLE MAP ; %044-25226873; 2nd fl, Shipping Corporation of India, Jawahar Bldg, 17 Rajaji Salai, George Town; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) sells tickets (₹2500 to ₹6420) for the 60-hour trip. Book several days ahead, and take three copies each of your passport data page and Indian visa along with the original. It can be a long process.
Bus
Most government buses operate from the large but surprisingly orderly CMBT (Chennai Mofussil Bus Terminus; Jawaharlal Nehru Rd, Koyambedu), 6km west of the centre. The most comfortable and expensive are the air-con buses (best of these are Volvo AC services), followed by the UD ('Ultra Deluxe'); these can generally be reserved in advance. You can book up to 60 days ahead at the computerised reservation centre at the left end of the main hall, or online (www.tnstc.in).
The T Nagar Bus Terminus ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; South Usman Rd, T Nagar) is handy for bus 599 to Mamallapuram (₹40, 1½ hours, hourly 5am to 7.30pm).
Private buses generally offer greater comfort than non-AC government buses, at up to double the price. Their main terminal is the Omni Bus Stand (off Kaliamman Koil St, Koyambedu), 500m west of the CMBT, but some companies also pick up and drop off elsewhere in the city. Service information is at www.redbus.in; tickets can be booked through travel agencies.
Parveen Travels ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %044-28192577; www.parveentravels.com; 11/5 Kennet Lane, Egmore) Services to Bengaluru, Ernakulam (Kochi; Cochin), Kodaikanal, Madurai, Ooty (Udhagamandalam), Puducherry, Trichy and Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) depart from its Egmore office.
Government Buses From Chennai's CMBT
| Destination | Fare (₹) | Time (hr) | Departures |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bengaluru | 360-580 | 7-8 | at least 40 daily |
| Coimbatore | 40 | 11 | 11 daily |
| Ernakulam (Kochi) | 590 | 12-16 | 3pm |
| Hyderabad | 825-1500 | 14 | 5.30pm, 6.30pm, 7pm |
| Kodaikanal | 380 | 10-13 | 5pm |
| Madurai | 325 | 9-10 | 42 daily |
| Mamallapuram | 40 | 2-2½ | every 10min |
| Mysuru | 550-900 | 10 | 7pm, 7.45pm, 8.40pm, 10.05pm |
| Ooty | 435 | 12 | 4.30pm, 5.45pm, 7.15pm |
| Puducherry | 125 | 4 | 36 daily |
| Thanjavur | 250 | 8½ | 12 daily |
| Tirupati | 150-320 | 4 | every 30min |
| Trichy | 235 | 6½-7 | 45 daily |
| Trivandrum | 570 | 14 | 9 daily |
Car
Renting a car with a driver is the easiest form of transport and easily arranged through most travel agents, midrange or top-end hotels, or the airport's prepaid taxi desks. Sample rates for non-AC/AC cars are ₹700/900 for up to five hours and 50km, and ₹1400/1800 for up to 10 hours and 100km.
Train
Interstate trains and those heading west generally depart from Central station, while trains heading south mostly leave from Egmore. The Advanced Reservation Office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1st fl, Chennai Central suburban station; h8am-2pm & 2.15-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun), with its incredibly helpful Foreign Tourist Cell, is on the 1st floor in a separate 11-storey building just west of the main Central station building. Bring photocopies of your passport visa and photo pages. Egmore station has its own Passenger Reservation Office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1st fl, Egmore station, Egmore; h8am-2pm & 2.15-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun).
Major Trains From Chennai
| Destination | Train No & Name | Fare (₹) | Time (hr) | Departure |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Agra | 12615 Grand Trunk Express | 745/1960/2865 (C) | 31½ | 7.15pm CC |
| Bengaluru | 12007 Shatabdi Express* | 710/1435 (A) | 5 | 6am CC |
| 12609 Bangalore Express | 150/540 (B) | 6½ | 1.35pm CC | |
| Coimbatore | 12675 Kovai Express | 180/660 (B) | 7½ | 6.15am CC |
| 12671 Nilgiri Express | 315/810/1140 (C) | 7¾ | 9.15pm CC | |
| Delhi | 12621 Tamil Nadu Express | 780/2040/2990 (C) | 33 | 10pm CC |
| Goa | 17311 Vasco Express (Friday only) | 475/1285/1865 (C) | 21 | 3pm CC |
| Hyderabad | 12759 Charminar Express | 425/1125/1605 (C) | 13¾ | 6.10pm CC |
| Kochi | 22639 Alleppey Express | 395/1045/1480 (C) | 11½ | 8.45pm CC |
| Kolkata | 12842 Coromandel Express | 665/1745/2540 (C) | 27 | 8.45am CC |
| Madurai | 12635 Vaigai Express | 180/660 (B) | 7¾ | 1.30pm CE |
| 12637 Pandian Express | 315/810/1140 (C) | 8¾ | 9.20pm CE | |
| Mumbai | 11042 Mumbai Express | 540/1450/2115 (C) | 25¾ | 11.55am CC |
| Mysuru | 12007 Shatabdi Express* | 930/1825 (A) | 7 | 6am CC |
| 16021 Kaveri Express | 315/810/1140 (C) | 9¾ | 9pm CC | |
| Tirupati | 16053 Tirupathi Express | 80/285 (B) | 3½ | 2.15pm CC |
| Trichy | 12635 Vaigai Express | 145/515 (B) | 5 | 1.30pm CE |
| Trivandrum | 12695 Trivandrum Express | 470/1240/1775 (C) | 16 | 3.25pm CC |
Departure Codes: CC – Chennai Central, CE – Chennai Egmore
*Daily except Wednesday
Fares: (A) chair/executive; (B) 2nd class/chair; (C) sleeper/3AC/2AC
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
The cheapest airport transport are suburban trains to/from Tirusulam station opposite the domestic terminal parking areas, accessed via a signposted pedestrian subway under the highway. Trains run roughly every 15 minutes from 4.53am to 11.43pm to/from Chennai Beach station (₹10, 40 minutes); stops include Nungambakkam, Egmore, Chennai Park and Chennai Fort.
Prepaid taxi kiosks outside the airport's international terminal charge ₹550/600 for a non-AC/AC cab to Egmore, and ₹450/500 to T Nagar. Rates are slightly lower at prepaid taxi kiosks outside the domestic terminal. Both terminals have Fast Track (%60006000) taxi booking counters.
The Chennai Metro Rail system provides cheap, easy transport between the airport and, at the time of writing, the CMBT only (₹50; possibly changing at Alandur). The metro station is between the two airport terminals. A metro branch connecting the airport with central Chennai isn't due until 2018.
From the CMBT, city buses 70 and 170 to Tambaram stop on the highway across from the airport (₹12 to ₹15, 30 to 40 minutes).
Autorickshaw
Most autorickshaw drivers refuse to use their meters and quote astronomical fares. Avoid paying upfront, and always establish the price before getting into a rickshaw. Rates rise by up to 50% from 11pm to 5am.
There are prepaid autorickshaw booths outside the CMBT (₹125 to Egmore), and 24-hour prepaid stands on the south side of Central station and outside the north and south exits of Egmore station.
Tempting offers of ₹50 autorickshaw ‘city tours’ sound too good to be true. They are. You'll spend the day being dragged from one shop to another.
Bus
Chennai’s city bus system is worth getting to know, although buses get packed to overflowing at busy times. Fares are between ₹3 and ₹14 (up to double for express and deluxe services, and multiplied by five for Volvo AC services). Route information is on www.mtcbus.org.
Chennai Bus Routes
| Bus No | Route |
|---|---|
| A1 | Central–Anna Salai–RK Mutt Rd (Mylapore) –Theosophical Society–Thiruvanmiyur |
| 1B | Parry's–Central–Anna Salai–Airport |
| 10A | Parry’s–Central–Egmore (S)–Pantheon Rd–T Nagar |
| 11 | Rattan–Central–Anna Salai–T Nagar |
| 12 | T Nagar–Pondy Bazaar–Eldham's Rd–Dr Radhakrishnan Salai–Vivekananda House |
| 13 | T Nagar–Royapettah–Triplicane |
| 15B & 15F | Broadway–Central–CMBT |
| M27 | CMBT–T Nagar |
| 27B | CMBT–Egmore (S)–Bharathi Salai (Triplicane) |
| 27D | Egmore (S)–Anna Salai–Cathedral Rd–Dr Radhakrishnan Salai–San Thome Cathedral |
| 32A | Central–Vivekananda House |
| 102 | Broadway–Fort St George–Kamarajar Salai–San Thome Cathedral–Theosophical Society |
Routes operate in both directions.
Broadway – Broadway Bus Terminus, George Town
Central – Central Station
Egmore (S) – Egmore station (south side)
Parry's – Parry's Corner
Rattan – Rattan Bazaar Rd Bus Stop
T Nagar – T Nagar Bus Terminus
Metro Rail
Chennai Metro Rail, a much-awaited, part-underground rapid transit system, partly opened in late 2016. At the time of writing, the only operational section was a part of Line 2 (Green) that runs from the CMBT south to St Thomas Mount and the airport. When completed, Line 2 will continue east from the CMBT to Egmore and Central train stations. Line 1 (Blue) goes from the airport to Teynampet, Thousand Lights, Central train station, the High Court and Washermanpet in northern Chennai, running beneath Anna Salai for several kilometres, but isn't due to be completed until 2018. Trains run from 5am to 10pm; tickets cost ₹10 to ₹50.
Taxi
Both airport terminals have prepaid taxi kiosks. There are prepaid taxi stands outside the south side of Egmore ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Egmore station, Egmore; h24hr) and Central ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Central station; h24hr) stations; a ride of 8km or 9km, such as to the CMBT, costs around ₹450.
Relatively reliable Fast Track taxis charge ₹100 for up to 4km, then ₹18 per kilometre (with a 25% hike in rates between 11pm and 5am); bookings by phone.
The Uber taxi app offers reliable, sensibly priced transport around town, as does the near-identical Ola Cabs app (for which you need an Indian mobile number).
Train
Efficient, cheap suburban trains run from Beach station to Fort, Park (near Central station), Egmore, Chetpet, Nungambakkam, Kodambakkam, Mambalam, Saidapet, Guindy, St Thomas Mount, Tirusulam (for the airport), and on south to Tambaram. At Egmore station, the suburban platforms (10 and 11) and ticket offfice are on the station's north side. A second line branches south after Fort to Park Town, Chepauk, Tiruvallikeni (for Marina Beach), Light House and Thirumailai (near the Kapaleeshwarar Temple). Trains run several times hourly from 4am to midnight, costing ₹5 to ₹10.
HOLIDAY TRANSPORT
All kinds of transport in, to and from Tamil Nadu get booked up weeks in advance for periods around major celebrations, including Pongal, Karthikai Deepam, Gandhi Jayanti and Diwali. Plan ahead.