Oxford & the Cotswolds

One of the world’s most famous university cities, Oxford is steeped in history and studded with grandiose buildings, yet maintains a vibrant atmosphere, thanks in part to large student numbers. A few miles west, rolling gracefully across six counties, the Cotswolds are a delightful tangle of charming villages, thatch-roofed cottages and ancient mansions of gold-coloured stone. Like exposed beams, cream teas and cuisine full of local produce? Then the Cotswolds are calling.

Two Days in Oxford & the Cotswolds

Start day one gently – stroll through college quads, marvel at fine buildings, sip pints in pubs. Then head to Turl St Kitchen for a fine feed. On day two, take in the city's other sights, targeting the Bodleian Library, the Ashmolean Museum and the Pitt Rivers Museum. After a drink at the famous Eagle & Child, duck into Door 74 for modern British food.

Four Days in Oxford & the Cotswolds

On day three, immerse yourself in the ornate beauty of Blenheim Palace, taking time to explore the exquisite, less-visited grounds. Supper is tapas at Kazbar back in town. Next morning, begin your Cotswolds road trip, touring Stow-on-the-Wold and the Slaughters for starters. Foodie treats come courtesy of Daylesford Organic or Lords of the Manor (%01451-820243; www.lordsofthemanor.com; Upper Slaughter; 3-course dinner £72.50; hnoon-1.30pm Sat & Sun, 6.45-9pm daily; p).

Arriving in Oxford & the Cotswolds

Oxford’s excellent transport connections include rail services to London Paddington (£25, 1¼ hours), and National Express bus connections to Bath (£7, two hours) and London Victoria (£16, two hours).

Oxford Bus Company (www.oxfordbus.co.uk) services go to Heathrow (£23, 1½ hours) and Gatwick (£28, two hours) airports. Trains and buses run to key Cotswolds towns, but it’s easier to explore the villages by car.

Where to Stay

In Oxford, book ahead between May and September and on weekends. If stuck, there are plenty of B&Bs along Iffley, Abingdon, Banbury and Headington Rds. Budget accommodation options are clustered near the train station.

The Cotswolds overflow with exquisite hotels, but have fewer budget options (except in walker-friendly Winchcombe and Chipping Campden). Book ahead, especially during festivals and between May and August.

Brasenose College and Radcliffe Camera | CARON BADKIN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

TOP EXPERIENCE

Exploring the Colleges

Oxford is a glorious place in which to wander. Some of the 38 colleges date from the 13th century, and each is individual in its appearance and academic specialities. This results in an enchanting air of antiquity and tradition that infuses the city and its quads, halls, chapels and inns.

Great For…

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8Need to Know

Visiting hours change with terms and exam schedules. Check www.ox.ac.uk for full details.

oTop Tip

Take your time: atmosphere and details are the appeal here. Lingering and looking bring rewards.

Much of Oxford's centre is taken up by elegant university buildings. The gorgeous architecture and compact geography make strolling between them a joy.

Christ Church

The largest of all of Oxford’s colleges, and the one with the grandest quad, Christ Church ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-276492; www.chch.ox.ac.uk; St Aldate’s; adult/child £9/8; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sun) is also its most popular. It was founded in 1524 by Cardinal Thomas Wolsey. Past students include Albert Einstein, John Locke, WH Auden, Charles Dodgson (Lewis Carroll), and no fewer than 13 British prime ministers.

The main entrance is below the imposing 17th-century Tom Tower, the upper part of which was designed by former student Sir Christopher Wren. Great Tom, the 6-tonne tower bell, still chimes 101 times each evening at 9.05pm (Oxford is five minutes west of Greenwich).

The college's imposing Great Hall, with its hammer-beam roof and distinguished portraits of past scholars, was replicated in film studios as the Hogwarts dining hall for the Harry Potter films. The grand fan-vaulted staircase that leads from it is where Professor McGonagall welcomed Harry in Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone.

The Great Hall, Christ Church | E X P O S E / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

yDon't Miss

Christ Church's Harry Potter film connections; seek out the Great Hall and its sweeping staircase.

Merton College

Founded in 1264, Merton ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-276310; www.merton.ox.ac.uk; Merton St; adult/child £3/free; h2-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun) is the oldest of Oxford's colleges. Its celebrated architectural features include large gargoyles, the charming 14th-century Mob Quad, and a 13th-century chapel. The Old Library is the oldest medieval library in use; it's said that Tolkien, a Merton English professor, spent many hours here writing The Lord of the Rings and that the trees in the Fellows’ Garden inspired the ents of Middle Earth. Other literary alumni include TS Eliot and Louis MacNeice.

Merton College | ANDREI NEKRASSOV / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

All Souls College

One of the wealthiest and most peaceful Oxford colleges, All Souls ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-279379; www.asc.ox.ac.uk; High St; h2-4pm Mon-Fri, closed Aug) was founded in 1438 as a centre of prayer and learning. Much of the college facade dates from the 1440s and the smaller Front Quad is largely unchanged in five centuries. Most eye-catching are the twin mock-Gothic towers on the North Quad; it also contains a 17th-century sundial designed by Christopher Wren.

Brasenose College

The main draw at Brasenose ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-277830; www.bnc.ox.ac.uk; Radcliffe Sq; admission £2; h10-11.30am & 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9-10.30am Sat & Sun) is a chapel with a fine painted, vaulted ceiling. A small elegant college, it was founded in 1509. Famous alumni include Lord of the Flies author William Golding, Monty Python's Michael Palin and British prime minister David Cameron. If the sign outside says it's closed during supposed open hours, check with the porters as they sometimes hang it to deter tour groups.

Exeter College

Exeter ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-279600; www.exeter.ox.ac.uk; Turl St; h2-5pm) is known for its elaborate 17th-century dining hall and ornate Victorian Gothic chapel housing The Adoration of the Magi, a William Morris tapestry (Morris was an undergraduate). The college inspired the fictional Jordan College in the His Dark Materials trilogy by Philip Pullman, who also studied here.

Trinity College

Founded in 1555, the highlight of this small college ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-279900; www.trinity.ox.ac.uk; Broad St; adult/child £3/2; h10am-noon & 2pm-dusk) is a lovely 17th-century garden quad, designed by Christopher Wren. Its exquisitely carved chapel is one of the city's most beautiful and a masterpiece of English baroque. Famous students have included Cardinal Newman and British Prime Minister, William Pitt the Elder.

5Take a Break

After strolling around Christ Church's Great Hall and Tom Quad, peel off into the nearby streets for a drink or a snack at the ancient and atmospheric Bear Inn.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Driving the Cotswolds

The Cotswolds lie just west of Oxford, a bewitching network of winding country lanes that link ancient market towns, time-warped villages and majestic stately homes. The landscape is England’s second-largest protected area after the Lake District and the gentle yet dramatic hills are perfect for touring by car.

Great For…

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8Need to Know

The Cotswolds have been well and truly discovered, and the most popular villages can be besieged by traffic and visitors, especially in summer. Plan to visit the main centres early in the morning or late in the evening.

oTop Tip

Stretch your trip to two or three days to really soak up the local life.

A cottage in the Cotswolds | RAYMOND LLEWELLYN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Slaughters

The picture-postcard villages of Upper and Lower Slaughter have maintained their unhurried medieval charm. The village names have nothing to do with abattoirs; they are derived from the Old English ‘sloughtre’, meaning slough or muddy place. Today the River Eye is contained within limestone banks and meanders peacefully through the two villages, past classic gold-tinged Cotswolds houses and the Old Mill (%01451-820052; www.oldmill-lowerslaughter.com; Lower Slaughter; adult/child £2.50/1; h10am-6pm Mar-Oct, to dusk Nov-Feb), now home to a cafe, crafts shop and small museum.

Stow-on-the-Wold & Daylesford Organic

The highest town in the Cotswolds (244m), Stow is anchored by a large market square surrounded by handsome buildings and steep-walled alleyways, originally used to funnel sheep into the fair. The town is famous for its twice-yearly Stow Horse Fair, but it attracts plenty of visitors year-round.

Four miles east of Stow, Daylesford Organic (%01608-731700; www.daylesford.com; Daylesford; h8am-5pm Mon-Wed, 8am-8pm Thu-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) is a country-chic temple to the Cotswolds' organic movement. The award-winning agricultural operation includes a gleaming food hall crammed with Daylesford-brand produce and an excellent cafe-restaurant that dishes up a daily-changing menu of organic treats (£7 to £17).

yDon't Miss

The extraordinary Tudor-style gardens at Sudeley Castle, where you'll find pathways once strolled by queens, and brightly coloured pheasants strutting their stuff.

Chipping Campden

Pretty Chipping Campden boasts an array of fine terraced houses and ancient inns, most made of beautiful honey-coloured Cotswolds stone. There are particularly striking thatch-roofed cottages along Westington, at the southwestern end of town.

One of the grandest residences is 14th-century Grevel House (High St; hclosed to the public) – look out for its splendid Perpendicular Gothic–style gabled window and sundial.

Stanway House

This magnificent Jacobean mansion (%01386-584469; www.stanwayfountain.co.uk; Stanway; adult/child £9/4; h2-5pm Tue & Thu Jun-Aug), hidden behind a triple-gabled gatehouse, has beautiful baroque water gardens featuring Britain’s tallest fountain, which erupts, geyser-like, to 300ft. The manor has been the private home of the Earls of Wemyss for 500 years and has a delightful, lived-in charm with much of its original furniture and character intact.

Winchcombe

In Winchcombe, butchers, bakers and independent shops still line the main streets. The capital of the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Mercia, it was one of the major towns in the Cotswolds until the Middle Ages. Today reminders of this past can be seen in Winchcombe’s dramatic stone and half-timbered buildings, and the picturesque cottages on Vineyard St and Dents Tce.

Set on Winchcombe’s southeast edge, the magnificent Sudeley Castle (%01242-604244; www.sudeleycastle.co.uk; adult/child £14.50/5.50; h10am-5pm mid-Mar–Oct; pc) has welcomed many a monarch over its thousand-year history, including Richard III, Henry VIII and Charles I. It’s most famous as the home and final resting place of Catherine Parr (Henry VIII’s widow), who lived here with her fourth husband, Thomas Seymour. You’ll find Catherine’s tomb in the castle’s Perpendicular Gothic St Mary’s Church, making this the only private house in England where a queen is buried.

The 10 splendid gardens include spectacular avenues of sculpted yews and an intricate knot garden. The rose-filled Queen’s Garden gets its name from having been strolled in by four English queens: Anne Boleyn, Katherine Parr, Lady Jane Grey and Elizabeth I.

Sudeley Castle's knot garden | STOCKER1970 / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

5Take a Break

Foodies should be sure to book a table at long-standing Michelin-starred 5 North St in Winchcombe, which serves creative cuisine in ancient surroundings.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Blenheim Palace

One of Britain's greatest stately homes, Blenheim Palace is a monumental baroque fantasy. With ornate architecture and lush parklands, it’s also the birthplace of Prime Minister, Sir Winston Churchill.

Great For…

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yDon't Miss

Exploring the impressive grounds – full of features they were landscaped by 'Capability' Brown.

8Need to Know

Blenheim Palace (%01993-810530; www.blenheimpalace.com; Woodstock; adult/child £24.90/13.90, park & gardens only £14.90/6.90; hpalace 10.30am-5.30pm, park & gardens 9am-6pm; p)

5Take a Break

Blenheim's Orangery Restaurant serves everything from three-course lunches to afternoon tea.

oTop Tip

Free, 45-minute guided tours depart every 30 minutes, except Sunday, when there are guides in all rooms.

Blenheim Palace was designed by Sir John Vanbrugh and Nicholas Hawksmoor, and built between 1705 and 1722. The land and funds to build the house were granted to John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough, by a grateful Queen Anne, after his victory over the French at the 1704 Battle of Blenheim. Sir Winston Churchill was born here in 1874. Now a Unesco World Heritage Site, Blenheim is still home to the 12th duke.

SURAARK / GETTY IMAGES ©

The Great Hall

Beyond majestic oak doors, the house is stuffed with statues, tapestries, ostentatious furniture, priceless china, and giant oil paintings in elaborate gilt frames. Visits start in the Great Hall, a soaring space topped by a 20m-high ceiling adorned with images of the first duke. To the right upon entering is the Churchill Exhibition, dedicated to the life, work, paintings and writings of Sir Winston Churchill. The British war-time prime minister was a descendant of the Dukes of Marlborough and is buried nearby in Bladon graveyard.

House Highlights

Must-sees include the famous Blenheim Tapestries, a set of 10 large wall hangings commemorating the first duke's triumphs; the State Dining Room, with its painted walls and trompe l'oeil ceilings; and the magnificent Long Library, overlooked by an elaborate 1738 statue of Queen Anne.

The Untold Story

Upstairs, the Untold Story exhibit sees a ghostly chambermaid leading you through a series of tableaux recreating important scenes from the palace's history.

Tours

As well as free, 45-minute guided tours of the house (Monday to Saturday), from February to September, you can also join tours (adult/child £6/5) of the Duke's private apartments, the palace's bedrooms or the household staff areas.

The Grounds

If the crowds in the house become too oppressive, escape into the vast, lavish gardens and park lands, parts of which were landscaped by the great Lancelot 'Capability' Brown. A minitrain (50p) takes visitors to the Pleasure Gardens, which feature a yew maze, adventure playground, lavender garden and butterfly house.

For quieter and longer strolls, there are glorious walks of up to 4.5 miles, leading past lakes to an arboretum, rose garden, cascade and temple, and Vanbrugh's Grand Bridge.

Sculptures in a palace fountain | MARK SYKES / GETTY IMAGES ©

Oxford

1Sights

8Museum of the History of ScienceC2

9Oxford Castle UnlockedB3

10Pitt Rivers MuseumC1

11Radcliffe CameraD3

12Sheldonian TheatreC2

13Trinity CollegeC2

14University Church of St Mary the VirginD3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

Bill Spectre's Ghost TrailsB3

Blackwell's Walking ToursC2

15Magdalen Bridge BoathouseE3

16Oxford Official Guided Walking ToursC3

7Shopping

17Blackwell'sC2

5Eating

18Door 74F4

19EdamaméD2

20Handle Bar Cafe & KitchenB3

21KazbarF4

22Turl St KitchenC3

23Vaults & GardenD3

6Drinking & Nightlife

24Bear InnC3

25Café TarifaF4

26Eagle & ChildB2

27Raoul'sB1

28Turf TavernD2

3Entertainment

29Oxford PlayhouseB2

Oxford

1Sights

Bodleian LibraryLibrary

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-277162; www.bodleian.ox.ac.uk/bodley; Catte St; tours £6-14; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)

Oxford's Bodleian Library is one of the oldest public libraries in the world and quite possibly the most impressive one you'll ever see. Visitors are welcome to wander around the central quad and the foyer exhibition space. For £1 you can visit the Divinity School, but the rest of the complex is only accessible on guided tours. Check timings online or at the information desk.

Half-hour mini tours (£6) include the medieval Duke Humfrey’s library, where no fewer than five kings, 40 Nobel Prize winners, 26 British prime ministers, and writers such as Oscar Wilde, CS Lewis and JRR Tolkien studied amid rows filled with grand ancient tomes chained to the shelves. It also featured in the Harry Potter films as Hogwarts library.

A superbly curated selection of the library's gems are now housed in the newly renovated Weston Library (Broad St), which opened to visitors in 2015.

Bodleian Library | JJFARQ / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Sheldonian TheatreTheatre

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-277299; www.admin.ox.ac.uk/sheldonian; Broad St; adult/child £3.50/2.50; h10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat Feb-Oct, to 3pm Nov-Jan)

Begun in 1663, this monumental building was the first major work of Christopher Wren, then a professor of astronomy. Inspired by the classical Theatre of Marcellus in Rome, it has a rectangular front end, a semicircular back and railings decorated with classical busts. You can climb to the cupola for good Oxford views.

Museum of the History of ScienceMuseum

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-277280; www.mhs.ox.ac.uk; Broad St; hnoon-5pm Tue-Sun)

Science, art, celebrity and nostalgia come together at this fascinating museum, where exhibits include everything from an extensive selection of astrolabes and an equation-covered blackboard used by Einstein in 1931, to the world's finest collection of historical scientific instruments.

University Church of St Mary the VirginChurch

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-279111; www.university-church.ox.ac.uk; High St; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun Sep-Jun, 9am-6pm daily Jul & Aug)

With a tower dating from 1280 and a Perpendicular Gothic nave, this relatively unadorned church is most famous as the site of the 1556 trial of three Anglican bishops (including Thomas Cranmer, the first Protestant archbishop of Canterbury) during the reign of Mary I. All three were later burned at the stake for heresy on Broad St. Inside, there's a memorial to the victims of the Reformation – both Protestant and Catholic.

Radcliffe CameraLibrary

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bodleian.ox.ac.uk; Radcliffe Sq)

The sandy-gold Radcliffe Camera is the quintessential Oxford landmark and undoubtedly one of the city’s most photographed buildings. This beautiful circular, columned library and reading room, filled with natural light and focused on the humanities, was built between 1737 and 1749 in grand Palladian style, and has Britain’s third-largest dome. The only way to see the interior is to join an extended 1½-hour tour (£14) of the Bodleian Library.

Ashmolean MuseumMuseum

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-278000; www.ashmolean.org; Beaumont St; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)

Britain's oldest public museum, second in repute only to London's British Museum, was established in 1683. Today its four floors feature interactive displays, a giant atrium, glass walls revealing galleries on different levels and a beautifully sited rooftop restaurant. World collections are displayed in bright, spacious, attractive galleries within one of Britain's best examples of neoclassical architecture.

Pitt Rivers MuseumMuseum

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-270927; www.prm.ox.ac.uk; South Parks Rd; hnoon-4.30pm Mon, 10am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)

This wonderfully creepy anthropological museum houses a treasure trove of half a million objects from around the world. Dim lighting lends an air of mystery to glass cases stuffed with the prized booty of Victorian explorers. The exhibit ‘Treatment of Dead Enemies’ is particularly gruesome.

Punting

Punting is the quintessential Oxford experience. But be warned: it's much harder than it looks.

From the centrally located Magdalen Bridge Boathouse ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-202643; www.oxfordpunting.co.uk; High St; chauffeured 4-person punts per 30min £32, punt rental per hr £22; h9.30am-dusk Feb-Nov), you can head downstream around the Botanic Garden and Christ Church Meadow or upstream around Magdalen Deer Park.

Punters on the River Cherwell | JON BOWER AT APEXPHOTOS / GETTY IMAGES ©

TTours

Oxford Official Guided Walking ToursWalking

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-686441; www.experienceoxfordshire.org/official-tours; 15-16 Broad St; adult/child from £12/7.50)

Tours of Oxford city and colleges (10.45am and 1pm year-round, plus 11am and 2pm at busy times), along with themed tours ranging from Inspector Morse, Alice in Wonderland and Harry Potter to medieval Oxford.

Bill Spectre’s Ghost TrailsWalking

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %07941 041811; www.ghosttrail.org; Oxford Castle Unlocked; adult/child £8/6; h6.30pm Fri & Sat)

For a highly entertaining, theatrical and informative look at Oxford’s dark underbelly, join Victorian undertaker Bill Spectre on a 1¾-hour tour of the city’s most haunted sites. It departs from Oxford Castle Unlocked ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-260666; www.oxfordcastleunlocked.co.uk; 44-46 Oxford Castle; adult/child £10.75/7.50; htours 10am-4.20pm); no bookings needed.

Blackwell’s Walking ToursWalking

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-333602; www.blackwells.co.uk/oxford; 48-53 Broad St; tours £9; hmid-Apr–Oct)

Oxford’s most renowned bookshop seasonal literary-themed walking tours including one of The Inklings, which leads you to favourite haunts of JRR Tolkien and CS Lewis.

Blackwell’s Bookshop

The most famous bookshop in the most studenty of cities, Blackwell’s ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-792792; www.blackwell.co.uk; 48-51 Broad St; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun) is a book-lover’s dream with its vast range of literature, academic treatises and guilty pleasures. Make sure you visit the Norrington Room in the basement – an immense inverted step pyramid lined with 3 miles of shelves, constructed in 1966.

STEVE HEAP / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

3Entertainment

Creation TheatreTheatre

(%01865-766266; www.creationtheatre.co.uk)

Performing in a variety of nontraditional venues, including city parks, Blackwell's bookshop, Oxford Castle and various colleges, this ambitious theatre company produces highly original, mostly Shakespearean shows featuring plenty of magic, quirk and special effects.

Oxford PlayhouseTheatre

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-305305; www.oxfordplayhouse.com; Beaumont St)

The city's main stage for quality drama also hosts an impressive selection of touring music, dance and theatre performances. The Burton Taylor Studio often features innovative student productions.

O2 AcademyLive Music

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-813500; www.academymusicgroup.com/o2academyoxford; 190 Cowley Rd)

Oxford's busiest club and live-music venue hosts everything from big-name DJs and international touring artists to indie bands and hard rock.

Catweazle ClubLive Music

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.catweazleclub.com; East Oxford Social Club, 44 Princes St; admission £6; h8pm Thu)

Legendary open-mic night, featuring musicians, poets, writers and all sorts of bohemian performers.

5Eating

EdamaméJapanese£

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-246916; www.edamame.co.uk; 15 Holywell St; mains £6-9.50; h11.30am-2.30pm Wed, 11.30am-2.30pm & 5-8.30pm Thu-Sat, noon-3.30pm Sun; v)

The queue out the door speaks volumes about the food quality at this tiny, deliciously authentic place. All light wood, dainty trays and friendly bustle, this is Oxford’s top spot for gracefully simple, flavour-packed Japanese cuisine. Dishes include fragrant chicken-miso ramen, tofu stir-fry and, on Thursday night, sushi.

Vaults & GardenCafe£

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-279112; www.thevaultsandgarden.com; University Church of St Mary the Virgin, Radcliffe Sq; mains £7-10; h8.30am-6pm; Wv)

Hidden away in the vaulted 14th-century Old Congregation House of the University Church, this buzzy local favourite serves a wholesome seasonal selection of soups, salads, pastas, curries, sandwiches and cakes, including plenty of vegetarian and gluten-free options.

Handle Bar Cafe & KitchenCafe£

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bike Zone, 28-32 St Michael’s Street; dishes £5-7; h8am-10pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun; Wv)

Hot on Oxford’s simmering coffee-culture scene, this bubbly bike-themed cafe gets packed with students, professionals and a few lucky tourists. They’re here for luscious, health-focused bites, such as spiced avocado-and-feta toast, kale-wrapped halloumi and fresh-fruit smoothie ‘pots.

Turl St KitchenModern British££

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-264171; www.turlstreetkitchen.co.uk; 16-17 Turl St; mains £11-19; h8-10am, noon-2.30pm & 6.30-10pm; v)

A twice-daily-changing menu transforms meals into exquisite surprises at this lively, super-central multi-level cafe-restaurant. Fresh, organic, sustainable and locally sourced produce is thrown into creative contemporary combinations, perhaps starring veggie tajines, roast beef, hake-and-chorizo skewers or fennel-infused salads.

KazbarTapas££

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-202920; www.kazbar.co.uk; 25-27 Cowley Rd; tapas £3.50-6; h5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-12.30am Sat, noon-11pm Sun; v)

Both sultry and stylish, this energetic Moroccan-inspired bar-restaurant has hanging lanterns, draped fabrics, low lighting, warm colours and a fun, fresh vibe. It's usually filled with a fashionable crowd sipping cocktails and tucking into superb Spanish and North African tapas.

BrancaItalian££

( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-556111; www.branca.co.uk; 110-111 Walton St, Jericho; mains £8-17; h10am-10pm)

Big, bright and bustling, glitzy Jericho favourite Branca serves cool cocktails and savoury focaccia to complement elegant, well-prepped pizzas, pastas, risottos, and Italian meat and seafood grills.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Eagle & ChildPub

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-302925; www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk/theeagleandchildoxford; 49 St Giles; hnoon-11pm)

Affectionately known as the ‘Bird & Baby’, this quirky pub dates from 1650 and was once a favourite haunt of authors JRR Tolkien and CS Lewis and a few other Inklings. Its narrow wood-panelled rooms and selection of real ales, craft beers and gins still attract a mellow crowd.

Turf TavernPub

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-243235; www.turftavern-oxford.co.uk; 4-5 Bath Pl; h11am-11pm; W)

Squeezed down a narrow alleyway, this tiny medieval pub (from at least 1381) is one of Oxford’s best loved. It’s where US president Bill Clinton famously ‘did not inhale’; other patrons have included Oscar Wilde, Stephen Hawking and Margaret Thatcher. Home to 11 real ales, it’s always crammed with students, professionals and the odd tourist. Plenty of outdoor seating.

Bear InnPub

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-728164; www.bearoxford.co.uk; 6 Alfred St; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)

Arguably Oxford’s oldest pub (there’s been a pub on this site since 1242), the atmospherically creaky Bear requires all but the most vertically challenged to duck their heads when passing through doorways. A curious tie collection covers the walls and ceilings, and there are usually a couple of worthy guest ales and artisan beers.

Café TarifaBar

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-256091; www.cafe-tarifa.co.uk; 56-60 Cowley Rd; h5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, to 1am Sat, to 11pm Sun)

Themed around a Spanish kitesurfing town, this low-key lounge spot is big on neo-Moorish style, with cushioned booths, low-slung tables, tile-patterned sinks and cushy beanbags. There’s a wide selection of cocktails, plus movie nights and live music.

Raoul’sCocktail Bar

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-553732; www.raoulsbar.com; 32 Walton St; h4pm-midnight Sun-Tue, to 1am Fri & Sat)

Expertly mixed fresh-fruit-infused cocktails, moody booths, laid-back lounge music and ‘watering can’ concoctions for sharing can all be found at Jericho’s finest retro-look bar.

8Information

Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; 102 St Aldate’s; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-686430; www.experienceoxfordshire.com; 15-16 Broad St; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) Covers the whole of Oxfordshire, stocks printed Oxford walking guides and books official walking tours.

8Getting There & Away

Oxford’s bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Gloucester Green) is in the centre, near the corner of Worcester and George Sts. The main bus companies are Oxford Bus Company (%01865-785400; www.oxfordbus.co.uk), Stagecoach (%01865-772250; www.stagecoachbus.com) and Swanbrook (%01452-712386; www.swanbrook.co.uk).

Oxford’s main train station (Botley Rd) is just to the west of the the city centre

8Getting Around

Cycling is a popular way to get around Oxford. Cyclo Analysts ( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-424444; www.cycloanalysts.com; 150 Cowley Rd; per day/week from £10/36; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) and Summertown Cycles ( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-316885; www.summertowncycles.co.uk; 200-202 Banbury Rd, Summertown; per day/week £18/35; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) rent out bikes.

Oxford Bus Company and Stagecoach serve an extensive local network with regular buses on major routes. A short journey costs £2.10 (return £3.50); consider a day pass (£4).

There are taxi ranks at the train station and bus station, as well as on St Giles and at Carfax. Or call 001 Taxis ( GOOGLE MAP ; %01865-240000; www.001taxis.com; New Inn Yard, 108 St Aldate’s) or Oxford Minicab Service (%01865-987749; www.oxfordminicab.co.uk; 25 Croft Rd).

Chipping Campden

An absolute gem in an area full of pretty towns, Chipping Campden is a glorious reminder of Cotswolds life in medieval times. The graceful curving main street is flanked by a perfectly picturesque array of stone cottages.

1Sights

St James’ ChurchChurch

(%01386-841927; www.stjameschurchcampden.co.uk; Church St; admission by donation; h10am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun Apr-Oct, 11am-3pm Mon-Sat, 2-4pm Sun Nov-Mar)

Built in the late 15th century in Perpendicular Gothic style, on wool-trade riches, imposing St James’ has a splendid tower and some graceful 17th-century monuments. Inside, you can see one of the earliest priest vestments on record, dating back to 1400.

Market HallHistoric Building

(NT; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; High St; admission free; h24hr)

In the middle of High St stands Chipping Campden's highly photogenic, honey-toned 17th-century Market Hall, an open-sided pillared building where dairy farmers used to sell their produce.

TTours

Guided tours are run by the Cotswold Voluntary Wardens from May to September (suggested donation £3). The Tourist Office can advise.

The Cotswolds' Best Eateries

o5 North St, a long-standing Michelin-starred restaurant, is a treat from start to finish, from its splendid 400-year-old timbered exterior to the elegant, inventive creations on your plate.

oSet inside a dazzling countryside manor, Lords of the Manor is a romantic Michelin-starred restaurant, concocting imaginative, beautifully presented dishes with French touches and plenty of quality local produce.

oLively, stylish and laid-back, Wheatsheaf (%01451-860244; www.cotswoldswheatsheaf.com; West End; mains £14-27; h8-10am, noon-3pm & 6-9pm Mon-Thu & Sun, to 10pm Fri & Sat; pWc) is housed in a beautifully revamped coaching inn, and sees diners digging into excellent, refined seasonal British dishes with a contemporary kick.

oThe bubbly, relaxed Horse & Groom (%01386-700413; www.horseandgroom.info; Bourton-on-the-Hill; mains £12.50-21.50; hnoon-2pm daily, 7-9pm Mon-Sat; pW) excels at upmarket country cooking showcasing local lamb, beef and vegetables, all colourfully chalked up on a board in the bar.

5Eating

Chef’s DozenModern British££

(%01386-840598; www.thechefsdozen.co.uk; High St; 3-/4-course set menu £28/45; h6.30-9pm Tue-Thu, noon-1.30pm & 6.30-9pm Fri & Sat)

Superb organic, field-to-fork cooking powered by local produce and delivered by changing seasonal menus is the draw at this fresh, friendly culinary star. Settle into the tastefully understated cream-coloured dining room for skilfully concocted, beautifully creative dishes.

Eight Bells InnPub Food££

(%01386-840371; www.eightbellsinn.co.uk; Church St; mains £13-16; hnoon-2pm & 6.30-9pm Mon-Thu, noon-2.30pm & 6.30-9.30pm Fri & Sat, 12.15-9pm Sun; c#)

Hidden away in a delightfully updated 14th-century inn, this relaxed pub wins points for its flagstone floors, warm service and good modern-British country cooking.

8Information

Tourist Office (%01386-841206; www.campdenonline.org; Old Police Station, High St; h9.30am-5pm daily mid-Mar–mid-Nov, 9.30am-1pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri-Sun mid-Nov–mid-Mar) Pick up a town guide (£1.50) for a self-guided walk around Chipping Campden's most significant buildings.

8Getting There & Away

From Monday to Saturday, catch Johnsons Excelbus shuttle to Stratford-upon-Avon (£4.20, 50 minutes).

Marchants bus 606/606S also runs to Stratford-upon-Avon (£4.50, 25 minutes).