Chapter 4 SOUPS AND DALS
As far as Indian soups go, the possibilities are endless. They can be eaten as a part of the meal or made into a bigger portion that’s good for a full meal. Many soups such as tomato and sweet corn have taken the front page in our Indian restaurant menus and are the perfect start your meal.
Indian-flavored soups receive a different treatment during preparation than their Western counterparts. The delicate use of spices like cumin seeds with a dash of green chili, in combination with fresh herbs, lentils, and vegetables imparts special aromas to these soups and makes them a perfect match for Indian fare. Some parts of India have extreme winter conditions, and some soups—especially the ones that contain spices like ginger, cinnamon, and peppercorn—are meant to combat the chill. Most of these soups would also make a delicious and substantial lunch, perhaps served with some Indian bread such as Naan Bread (page 121), or as an imaginative start to a dinner party. These soups are easy to prepare and most can be made ahead of time and then reheated just before serving. You can use a blender or a food processor for preparing most of these soups and make them thick or thin in consistency as you like. Indian soups are almost never thickened with starch, unlike Western soups.
Dal or lentils are also an integral part of Indian cuisine. Dal is often eaten with rice in the southern part of India, as well as with Indian breads in the north. Dal has an exceptional nutritional profile. It provides an excellent source of protein, particularly for those eating vegetarian diets or diets that do not contain much meat. Dal is also high in carbohydrates while being virtually fat free. Most dal recipes are quite simple to prepare. The standard preparation begins with boiling a variety of dal (or a mix) in water with some turmeric, salt to taste, and then adding a fried garnish at the end of the cooking process. In some recipes, tomatoes, tamarind, unripe mango, or other ingredients are added while cooking the dal, often to impart a sour flavor. Sometimes red kidney beans, chickpeas and other heavy legumes are used to make preparations that are a cross between a dal and gravy. Rajmah (Red Kidney Bean Dal, page 51) is usually served with rice. Although the recipes for dal used in this book are all vegetarian, feel free to add meat in some of the preparations. For example, you could use minced chicken, turkey, or pork in some of the recipes, per your preference, and make them into a wholesome dinner bowl!
For a comforting starter or simple meal on a cold day, try a bowl of warm pea soup. This soup can provide several benefits as part of an overall balanced diet. It is high in fiber, a great source of essential minerals and vitamins, and also has some contribution to weight loss, if some study reports are to be believed. The soup tastes great when made with fresh green peas that are in season, but when made with frozen peas, it tastes just as delicious.
Serves 4
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 30 minutes
2 tablespoons butter
2 cups (200 g) fresh green peas shelled
2 cups (100 g) packed fresh spinach leaves, washed and chopped or ¾ cup (150 g) frozen chopped spinach, thawed
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint leaves
2½ cups (625 ml) water or vegetable stock
1 cup (250 ml) cream
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
¼ teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon nutmeg powder
¼ teaspoon Café Spice Garam Masala (page 22)
Juice of ½ lime
Melt 1 teaspoon of the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat add the green peas, spinach, and mint and cook for 30 seconds. Add the water or vegetable stock and bring it to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer covered for 25–30 minutes. Remove from the heat and let it cool. Using a table top or a hand blender, purée the mixture until very smooth. Pass it through a strainer for a smooth texture.
Melt the remaining butter in a large saucepot over medium heat, add the strained pea soup, cream, salt, black pepper, sugar, nutmeg, and Garam Masala. Bring to a boil, simmer for 2 minutes, and then remove from the heat. Add the lime juice before serving. Serve hot.
This dish is extremely popular, not just in northern India, but elsewhere as well. It is a very popular weekend brunch dish, often served with plain rice. The consistency of this dish can be thicker, for scooping with roti bread or even whole grain tortillas or made thinner to serve over rice and eaten like a stew. Serve Rajmah with Simple Rice Pilaf (page 120), Chopped Vegetable Salad (page 43), and your favorite pickle.
Serves 4
Prep time: 15 minutes plus 8 hours soaking time if using dried kidney beans
Cook time: 55 minutes (1 hour 20 minutes if using dried kidney beans)
2 cups (350 g), dried red kidney beans, soaked overnight and drained, or two 15½-oz (439-g) cans kidney beans, rinsed and drained
½ cup (100 g), split black gram (urad dal), soaked overnight and drained
10 cups (2.5 liters) water plus ½ tablespoon salt for cooking the dried beans
½ cup (125 ml) oil
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 large onion (about 8 oz/250 g), minced
4 tablespoons Ginger-Garlic Paste (page 22)
3 fresh green chili peppers, minced
3 large tomatoes (about 1½ lbs/750 g), minced
3 teaspoons ground coriander
2 teaspoons Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper
Salt, to taste
2 teaspoons Café Spice Garam Masala (page 22)
4 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
2 tablespoons butter (optional)
If using dried kidney beans, bring the soaked and drained beans, split black gram, water, and salt to a boil in a large saucepan. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the beans are tender, about 45–50 minutes. Drain the beans, but reserve the cooking liquid. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed skillet or saucepan over medium heat. Add the cumin seeds and fennel seeds. Let them sizzle for 10 seconds. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until soft and starting to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the Ginger-Garlic Paste and fry for 1–2 minutes until soft. Add the green chili peppers, tomatoes, ground coriander, Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper, salt, and 1 cup (250 ml) of the reserved bean-soaking liquid or water. Cover and cook over low heat until the masala is cooked, about 5 minutes.
Add the cooked or canned red kidney beans to the tomato gravy and simmer, adding more of the bean-soaking liquid or water as needed, about 5–10 minutes. Stir in the Café Spice Garam Masala, fresh coriander leaves, and butter (if using). Serve hot.
Lentil and Spinach Soup Dal Palak
You can have this soup any time of the year, but it is especially great when the weather is cold! Serve it with Naan Bread (page 121), bread sticks, crusty bread, or have it just by itself. This soup has a refreshing, rustic simplicity that makes it feel like a safe haven amidst culinary fussiness. It is revitalizing and nourishing—a wonderful one-bowl meal to savor. Soaking the lentils for 4–8 hours will help them cook faster, but it’s not essential. If you do soak them, use a smaller quantity of water during cooking, as they will have already absorbed liquid while soaking. This soup keeps well in the fridge for up to a week; add fresh spinach if you want it to stay green.
Serves 4
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 30 minutes
1 tablespoon oil
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 red onion (about 5 oz/150 g), chopped
2 large cloves garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon ginger powder
½ teaspoon Café Spice Garam Masala (page 22)
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 small tomato (about 3 oz/85 g), chopped
1 cup (175 g) yellow lentils, rinsed and drained
2 cups (500 ml) water
3 cups (150 g) packed fresh spinach leaves, washed and chopped, or 1 cup (200 g) frozen chopped spinach, thawed
½ cup (125 ml) coconut milk
Salt, to taste
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the cumin seeds—they should sizzle on contact with the hot oil. Add the onion, garlic, ginger powder, Café Spice Garam Masala, and turmeric and cook, stirring constantly, until the spices are fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomato and cook for another 30 seconds.
Add the lentils and water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover partially, and simmer until the lentils are tender, about 15–20 minutes. Add more water if you want the dal to be thinner. If you want the soup to be a smooth purée, use a hand blender to purée the mixture now.
Stir in the spinach, coconut milk, and salt. Cover and simmer until the spinach is cooked, about 3 more minutes. Serve hot, garnished with the fresh coriander leaves.
Cauliflower and Curry Soup Gobhi Shorba
Cauliflower is easy to find and quite inexpensive. If you find yourself waiting for true spring produce (peas, favas, and asparagus), this is a good recipe to tide you over. One nice thing is that it takes very little time to pull together. You simply cook down the onions and garlic with the cauliflower, broth, and warm spices and prepare your favorite toppings (I like roasted potatoes, toasty cashews, and spicy red chili flakes—all with a dash of olive oil). Try it with coconut milk instead of heavy cream. Use skim milk for a lighter soup or skip dairy products completely for a vegan option.
Serves 4
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 30 minutes
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
4 whole cloves
5 green cardamom pods, crushed
1 stick cinnamon, ½-in (1.25-cm)
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
2 tablespoons butter
1 small onion (about 4 oz/125 g), chopped
4 large cloves garlic, minced
1 piece fresh ginger, 1-in (2.5-cm), peeled and chopped
6 cups (600 g) cauliflower florets (from 2½ lbs/1 kg cauliflower)
1 teaspoon Café Spice Garam Masala (page 22)
Salt, to taste
7 cups (1.75 liters) vegetable stock or water
1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream
Place the peppercorns, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, and fennel seeds in a small piece of cheesecloth and tie the cloth closed with a knot.
Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, ginger, cauliflower florets, Café Spice Garam Masala, and salt. Cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Add the vegetable stock or water and the spice pouch. Simmer for 20–25 minutes or until the cauliflower is tender. Remove from the heat and discard the bag of spices. Let the soup cool slightly.
Purée the cooled soup in a food processor or blender until smooth. Force the soup through a strainer into a clean saucepan. Add the heavy cream and bring the soup to a simmer. Ladle into soup bowls and serve hot.
Chickpea Curry with Sweet Potato Shakkar Kandi Chana Masala
This is a version of chana masala, a chickpea dish that is unquestionably one of the most popular vegetable curry dishes in northern India, and the most versatile. It is served as a one-dish meal at all times of day or as a snack. Its blend of fragrant spices is warming and healthy. Serve with a dollop of natural yogurt and a sprig of coriander. I use ghee in this recipe, but for a healthier version, use vegetable oil. Try serving this with Fried Puffed Bread (page 125) or Potato and Pea Samosas (page 46).
Serves 4
Prep time: 15 minutes plus 8 hours soaking time if using dried chickpeas
Cook time: 30 minutes (1 hour 15 minutes if using dried chickpeas)
2 cups (350 g), dried chickpeas, soaked overnight and drained, or three 15½-oz (439-g) cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed well
4 cups (1 liter) water plus ½ teaspoon salt for cooking dried peas
½ cup (125 ml) oil
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Ginger-Garlic Paste (page 22)
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon coriander seeds, crushed
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, crushed
2 onions (about ¾ lb/350 g), minced
4 fresh green chili peppers, slit open lengthwise
1 piece fresh ginger, 1-in (2.5-cm), peeled and chopped
½ lb (250 g) sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-in (2.5-cm) dice
2 tomatoes (about ¾ lb/350 g), minced
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons Café Spice Garam Masala (page 22)
1 teaspoon Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper
1 cup (250 ml) water
3 cups (150 g) packed fresh baby spinach leaves, washed
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon dried fenugreek leaves (kasoori methi) (optional)
4 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
If using dried chickpeas, bring the soaked and drained peas, water, and ½ teaspoon of salt to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, until the peas are tender, about 45 minutes. Drain the peas, rinse with cold water, and drain again. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the Ginger-Garlic Paste and fry for about 30 seconds, stirring constantly. Add the crushed coriander and cumin seeds and fry for 15–20 seconds, stirring constantly, until fragrant.
Add the onions, green chili peppers, and ginger and cook over medium heat, stirring often, until the onions are uniformly dark brown in color, about 10–12 minutes. Add the diced sweet potatoes and cook, stirring constantly, making sure the onions do not stick to the pan. Add a little water if necessary. Add the tomatoes, salt, Café Spice Garam Masala, and Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper and cook, stirring constantly, for about 30 seconds. Add the 1 cup (250 ml) of water, chickpeas, and spinach and bring to a simmer. Cook gently, partially covered, for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the lemon juice, fenugreek, and fresh coriander leaves. Taste for seasoning and add more salt if needed. Serve hot.
South Indian Lentils and Vegetables Sambhar
Use any available, seasonal vegetables to make this dish. There is an alternate, shorter method using store-bought sambar powder, which is readily available in ethnic stores (my favorite brand is MTR). If you are using store-bought powder, add it along with the lentils and water and bring it to a boil. Just be sure to read the instructions on the packet for the ratio of powder to the broth, as each brand has slightly different ingredients. I like to add a pinch of asafetida to this recipe, as this is how my mother made it at home, and it is a common ingredient in southern Indian cooking. Asafetida’s mild garlicky flavor adds a nice dimension to the soup, plus it is said to have beneficial digestive properties. This soup is traditionally served with dosai (page 124) as part of the main meal rather than as a first course.
Serves 4
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 45 minutes
8 dried red chili peppers
15–20 curry leaves
2 teaspoons coriander seeds
1 tablespoon split yellow peas (chana dal)
2 teaspoons fenugreek seeds
¾ cup (200 g) split pigeon pea lentils (toor dal)
Salt, to taste
7 cups (1.75 liters) water
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
2 baby eggplants (Asian, about 8 oz/250 g) trimmed and cut into ¾-in (2-cm) pieces
1 carrot, peeled and diced (about ¾ cup/112 g)
1 small potato, peeled and diced (about ¾ cup/130 g)
¼ lb (125 g) fresh green beans, trimmed and cut into 1-in (2.5-cm) lengths
1 cup (250 ml) water
1 tablespoon tamarind paste
4 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves
Heat a cast iron pan over medium heat. Add 4 of the dried red chili peppers, half the curry leaves, coriander seeds, split yellow peas, and fenugreek seeds. Carefully roast the spices, stirring constantly, until toasted and fragrant, about 2–3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool completely. Use a spice grinder or mortar and pestle to grind the spices into a powder. Pour the powder into a small bowl and add enough water, about 3–4 tablespoons, to form a thick paste. This can be made ahead of time and stored in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
Place the split pigeon pea lentils, salt, and remaining curry leaves in a medium saucepan and cover with the water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Once boiling, reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, until the lentils become soft and mushy. Skim off any scum that rises to the surface during the process. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat and add the mustard seeds, fennel seeds, cumin seeds, and the remaining dried red chili peppers. Stir in the vegetables and cook, stirring constantly, for a minute. Add the water, cover, and boil until the vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes.
Add the cooked lentils and tamarind paste and bring to a boil. Adjust the water if needed. Stir in the fresh coriander leaves and serve hot.
Buttery Black Lentils Dal Makhni
Traditionally, in restaurants, this lentil dal is simmered overnight on a tandoor oven, which enhances the flavors of the dish. I find that soaking the lentils a little longer than usual does the same. I usually soak them in the evening when I need to make this dish for the next day’s lunch. Otherwise you can use a slow cooker if you have one. A low-calorie version is very easy. Replace the cream with 2% milk. Cooking it for a long time makes it rich tasting and creamy even without the cream. Try it; you won’t miss the high-calorie version. This recipe requires slow cooking for the best result. It reminds me of my days at Bukhara restaurant, one of the top restaurants of the world, where this dish is known to be the best. I was an intern there, and my job was to stir a big pot of the dal to prevent it from sticking. But I will never forget the compliments on this dish from the guests to the kitchen.
Serves 4
Prep time: 15 minutes, plus 8 hours for soaking
Cook time: 1 hour 30 minutes
2 cups (400 g) whole dried black lentils (urad dal), soaked overnight and drained
8–10 cups (2–2.5 liters) water
1 cup (250 g) tomato paste
1 teaspoon Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper
2 fresh green chili peppers, slit
Salt, to taste
4 tablespoons Ginger-Garlic Paste (page 22)
3 tablespoons butter
1 piece fresh ginger, ½-in (1.25-cm), peeled cut into thin strips
1 red onion (about 5 oz/150 g), chopped
¼ cup (65 ml) cream
1 teaspoon Café Spice Garam Masala (page 22)
Handful of fresh coriander (cilantro) leaves with stems, chopped
Bring the soaked lentils and water to a boil in a large saucepan. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the lentils are tender, about 1 hour.
When the lentils are tender, add the tomato paste, chili powder, green chilies, salt, and the Garlic-Ginger Paste to the pan. Stir well and cook for another 30 minutes. Keep an eye on the pan and give it an occasional stir, as the lentils have a tendency to settle and stick on the bottom.
In a separate small saucepan over low heat, add the butter. When hot, add the onions and sliced ginger and cook for about 4–5 minutes, until translucent. Stir into the lentils along with the cream and Garam Masala. Cook for another minute and served garnished with fresh coriander.
Black-Eyed Pea Curry Lobhia Dal
The black-eyed pea is a versatile pulse that beautifully absorbs the spices added to it, making it succulent and tasty. Better known as lobhia in other regions of India, this bean is packed with proteins and micronutrients. I prefer the dried beans to the canned ones because you get the best nutrition from them. Black-eyed peas are high in fiber and rich in potassium and iron. They’re also a rich source of protein, so it’s good to include them in your regular diet if you are following a vegetarian diet. Preparation of this curry is unusually quick. Serve it with Whole Wheat Griddle Bread (page 122) to complement.
Serves 4
Prep time: 15 minutes plus 8 hours soaking time if using dried black-eyed peas
Cook time: 55 minutes (1 hour 15 minutes if using dried black-eyed peas)
1 cup (175 g) dried black-eyed peas, soaked overnight and drained, or 1 can black-eyed peas, 15½-oz (439-g), rinsed and drained
4 cups (1 liter) water plus ½ teaspoon salt for cooking dried peas
¼ cup (65 ml) oil
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
1 cinnamon stick, 1-in (2.5-cm)
1 red onion (about 5 oz/150 g), chopped
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 lb (500 g) tomatoes, blanched, peeled, and chopped (about 2½ cups/500 g)
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
¼ teaspoon asafetida (optional)
½ teaspoon paprika
Salt, to taste
3 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
If using dried black-eyed peas, bring the soaked and drained peas, water, and ½ teaspoon of salt to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat. Cover and simmer over low heat until the peas are tender, about 45 minutes. Drain the peas, rinse with cold water, and drain again. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed skillet or saucepan over medium heat. Add the cumin seeds and cinnamon stick and let them sizzle for 10 seconds. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until soft and starting to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, ground coriander, cumin, turmeric, asafetida (if using), paprika, salt, and a little water, if needed. Cover and cook over low heat for 10 minutes, until tender.
Add the cooked or canned black-eyed peas to the tomato mixture and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Stir in the fresh coriander leaves. Serve hot.
Homestyle Dal with Pumpkin Kaddu Ki Dal
My grandmother was an excellent cook, and this particular recipe was one of her favorites—and mine as well. She traditionally made it using an Indian variety of orange pumpkin, but any kind of pumpkin (especially sugar pumpkins) or a hard squash (such as butternut or acorn) will work well. The result is always a hearty, healthy soup with a lovely edge of sweetness.
Serves 6
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 45 minutes
2 cups (350 g) dried masoor dal or split lentils of your choice, washed and drained
8 oz (250 g) pumpkin, peeled and diced into ¾-in (2-cm) dice
7 cups (1.75 liters) water
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1½ teaspoons salt
3 tablespoons oil
2½ teaspoons cumin seeds
2 dried red chili peppers, broken in half
6–8 fresh curry leaves
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger
2 fresh green chili peppers, minced
1 tomato (about 5 oz/150 g), diced
1 teaspoon Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper
4 tablespoons minced fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
Juice of ½ lime
Bring the lentils, pumpkin, and water to a boil in a heavy pot. Remove any surface scum that collects on top. Add the turmeric and salt and reduce the heat to low. Cover, leaving the lid slightly ajar, and simmer gently for 20–30 minutes or until the lentils become soft and mushy and the pumpkin is fully cooked. Stir often to prevent sticking. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the cumin seeds and let them sizzle for 3–4 seconds. Add the dried red chili peppers, curry leaves, garlic, ginger, green chili peppers, tomatoes, and Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper. Cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Add the cooked lentils and pumpkin to this mixture. Mix well, adding more water as needed. The consistency should be like a soft porridge. Taste for seasoning and add salt if needed.
Stir in the fresh coriander leaves and lime juice. Transfer to a serving bowl, serve hot.
