Chapter 7 POULTRY AND MEAT

India owes its delectable cuisine to its rich heritage and culture. In fact, religion, along with key chapters in India’s history, have played a big role in determining its cuisine and palette. For example, with the advent of the Mughals, and a country that was largely vegetarian slowly embraced meat and poultry over the course of nearly 200 years of Mughal rule. Military invasions and the country’s key positioning on trade routes also helped shape some of today’s more popular dishes. Vindaloo from the Portuguese as well as kebabs and pilaf (or pulao) from the Greeks and Persians are examples of such influences. Geography too had a role to play in giving Indian cuisine its regional variations. For inland populations, lamb, goat, and chicken started forming the basis of many popular dishes owing to the inaccessibility of fresh seafood, which only the coastal inhabitants had in abundance. Moreover, dishes from the south are spicier than those from the north, and their distinct flavor comes from the generous use of locally available tamarind, coconut, and mustard seeds.

Turkey is almost unused in India, owing to its unavailability. However, I have tried many of these recipes using turkey, and it works well. For those who prefer using leaner meat, you can substitute turkey for chicken in some of these recipes.

In India and on the subcontinent, lamb is rarely eaten in the average home, although you may find it in restaurants. We in the West are rather reluctant to eat mutton, in no small part because of its scarcity here. Traditionally, Indian meat recipes would generally call for goat, but feel free to substitute beef or lamb, per your preference.

There are hundreds of ways to prepare meat in the Indian style. You can mince it and mix with spices to make various kinds of kebabs and koftas, use pieces in stews mixed with lentils, or just braise it with spices and serve with bread or rice. All the dishes in this chapter are treated as the main dish in a meal, with the side dishes (appetizers, vegetables, and accompaniments) planned around it.


Kerala-Style Chicken Stew

Use boneless country chicken for this recipe, as it gives this dish the best flavor. The traditional recipe from Kerala uses a paste of fresh coconut, green chili, ginger, onions, and turmeric, but here the recipe uses canned coconut milk for quick and easy preparation. Cook this warming stew when you need some comfort food. Serve it with hot over steamed rice.

Serves 4

Prep time: 15 minutes

Cook time: 30 minutes

10–12 (about 1 lb/500 g) small new or baby potatoes

Salt, to taste

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 tablespoons oil

1 tablespoon ghee

½ teaspoon mustard seeds

1 cinnamon stick, ½-in (1.25-cm)

1 bay leaf

4 green cardamom pods

2 cloves peeled garlic, crushed, and sliced lengthwise

1 piece fresh ginger, 1-in (2.5-cm), peeled and thinly-sliced

20 curry leaves

1 teaspoon black peppercorn, crushed

2 onions (about ¾ lb/350 g), chopped

2 fresh green chili peppers, slit and crushed

1¼–1½ lbs (600–750 g) skinless, boneless chicken pieces cut into cubes, 2-in (5-cm)

1 carrot, peeled and diced (about ¾ cup/112 g)

Salt, to taste

3 cups (750 ml) coconut milk

½ cup (125 ml) water, if needed

½ cup (60 g) green peas, fresh or frozen

¼ teaspoon Café Spice Garam Masala (page 22)

Scrub the potatoes and parboil them in their skins with a pinch of salt and turmeric.

Heat the oil and ghee in a medium saucepan over medium heat and add the mustard seeds. When the seeds crackle, add the cinnamon, bay leaf, and cardamom. When the mixture turns fragrant, about 5–10 seconds, add the sliced garlic, sliced ginger (saving a little for a garnish), and curry leaves and continue to stir-fry. After 20 seconds, add the crushed peppercorns, onions, and green chili peppers and stir-fry for about 2–3 minutes. Add the chicken pieces and sauté for 2–3 minutes.

Add the parboiled potatoes and carrots. Salt to taste and cook, covered, for 2 minutes. Finally add the coconut milk, ½ cup (125 ml) of water (if needed), the green peas, and remaining thinly-sliced ginger. Sprinkle with the Garam Masala, cover, and cook until the chicken is fully cooked. Serve hot.


Omelet Curry Masala Anda

This recipe evokes fond memories of my aunt’s kitchen back home. I remember that my young cousins were not particularly fond of eggs in their curry, so my aunt used this innovative method to add pieces of omelet instead—kids love omelet in a curry. You can use any filling in this omelet to give it your own twist. Play around with the masalas to create variations of this omelet curry.

Serves 2

Prep time: 15 minutes

Cook time: 30 minutes

2 tablespoons shredded unsweetened coconut (frozen or freshly grated)

½ teaspoon cumin seeds

½ teaspoon fennel seeds

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

½ teaspoon Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon Café Spice Garam Masala (page 22)

3 eggs

1 red onion, minced (about 1 cup/200 g)

2 fresh green chili peppers, seeded and finely chopped

2 tablespoons fresh coriander leaves (cilantro), chopped

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Salt, to taste

3 tablespoons oil

1 large onion (about 8 oz/250 g), sliced

2 fresh green chili peppers, chopped

2 tomatoes (about 1 lb/500 g), chopped

Juice of ½ lime

3 cups (750 ml) water

2 tablespoons minced fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)

Put the coconut, cumin and fennel seeds, coriander, red chili powder, turmeric, and Garam Masala into a blender with 2 tablespoons of water and grind to a paste. Set aside.

To make the omelet, whisk the eggs in a small bowl. Add the onion, green chilies, coriander leaves, and black pepper; salt to taste and mix well.

Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a large nonstick pan or a skillet over medium heat. Add the egg and spread around to make a thin omelet.

When the lower side of the omelet is cooked, about 2–3 minutes, turn the omelet over gently using a large spatula. Once the other side is cooked, remove from the heat and cool.

Cut the omelet in half and then cut crosswise into strips, 1-in (2.5-cm) wide. Roll up the strips and set aside on paper towels.

To make the curry, heat the remaining oil in the medium nonstick skillet and fry the sliced onions over medium heat for 8–10 minutes until slightly brown. Add the ground spice paste and fry for another 3–4 minutes. Add a little water if the mixture sticks to the pan, but make sure the spices cook until fragrant.

Add the green chilies and tomatoes and sauté for 5 minutes. Then add the lime juice, water and salt to taste. Simmer for 10 minutes.

Add the coriander leaves and omelet strips. Cook for another 2 minutes over a very low heat until the sauce coats the omelet strips. Serve hot.


Mom’s Chicken Curry Kori Ghassi

This is my family’s recipe. It is one of my personal favorites for many reasons—including that it reminds me of my mother’s home cooking and Sunday brunch back home. Sometimes I make this curry just for me when I am missing mom’s food. I can never get enough of it. This dish is best served over rice or served with bread.

Serves 4

Prep time: 15 minutes

Cook time: 30 minutes

10 dried red chili peppers

1¼ cups (125 g) shredded unsweetened coconut (frozen or freshly grated)

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

2 teaspoons coriander seeds

1 teaspoon sesame seeds

3 cloves

6 peppercorns

1 cinnamon stick, ½-in (1.25-cm)

3 green cardamom pods

1 piece fresh ginger, 1-in (2.5-cm), peeled and chopped

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 onion (about 5 oz/150 g), coarsely chopped

⅓ cup (80 ml) oil

1 whole chicken (about 2½–3½ lbs/1–1½ kg), cut into bone-in pieces

2 tomatoes (about ¾ lb/350 g), finely chopped

Salt, to taste

3 cups (750 ml) coconut milk

Juice of ½ lime

½ teaspoon Café Spice Garam Masala (page 22)

Soak the red chilies in a little water for 15–20 minutes to soften.

Place the cumin seeds, coriander seeds, sesame seeds, cloves, peppercorns, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, garlic, onion, and the soaked red chilies into a food processor and blend to a smooth paste, adding a little water if necessary.

Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat. When hot, add the spice paste and cook, stirring constantly for about 5 minutes until fragrant.

Add the chicken pieces and fry them in the paste for about 5 minutes, until seared. Add the chopped tomatoes and salt and cook for about 5 minutes. Add the coconut milk and leave to simmer until the chicken is cooked, about 10–15 minutes. Add the lime juice and Garam Masala. Season with more salt if needed. Add more water if you need more gravy.


Chicken Tikka Masala Murg Tikka Makhni

Chicken Tikka Masala, or “CTM,” as it is popularly known these days, is the number one best seller at Café Spice. The CTM at Café Spice has a national popularity and has been a well-guarded secret all this time. For the benefit of the readers of this book, here is how you can get closest to the recipe! At Café Spice, the makhni gravy and the chicken are prepared separately. I have used an easier home version in this recipe that makes the CTM equally tasty.

Serves 4

Prep time: 15 minutes plus 2 hours for marinating

Cook time: 20 minutes

⅓ cup (80 ml) thick, Greek-style plain yogurt or sour cream

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon paprika

2 teaspoons ground coriander

3 teaspoons Café Spice Garam Masala (page 22)

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Ginger-Garlic Paste (page 22)

1¼–1½ lbs (600–750 g) skinless, boneless chicken pieces cut into 2-in (5-cm) cube

Nonstick cooking spray or oil, to grease grill pan

2 tablespoons oil

1 large red onion (about 8 oz/250 g), minced

1¼ cups (300 ml) tomato purée

2½ tablespoons tomato paste

1 teaspoon salt, plus more if needed

4 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)

2 tablespoons softened butter (optional)

Mix together 2 tablespoons of the yogurt or sour cream, 2 teaspoons of the paprika, 1 teaspoon of the ground coriander, 1 teaspoon of Café Spice Garam Masala, and half of the Ginger-Garlic Paste in a large mixing bowl. Add the cubed chicken and mix until the chicken pieces are well coated. Let marinate in the refrigerator for 2 hours.

Heat a grill pan over medium heat and grease with nonstick cooking spray or a little oil. Place the chicken cubes on the grill pan and cook all sides until well browned, about 4–5 minutes per side. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add the onion and sauté until translucent, about 1 minute. Add the remaining Ginger-Garlic Paste and cook until the mixture turns golden brown, about 1–2 minutes. Add the remaining paprika and ground coriander. Mix well and cook for another 30 seconds.

Add the tomato purée, tomato paste, and salt, and cook, stirring constantly, until the oil separates from the masala, about 2 minutes. This technique is called bhunao. Remove from the heat.

Transfer the onion-tomato mixture to a food processor or blender and process to a smooth paste. Add a little water if the mixture gets too thick.

Pour the tomato-onion purée back in the skillet and set over medium heat. Whisk in the remaining yogurt or sour cream, making sure it is well blended.

Add the chicken and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cover the pan and allow the chicken to simmer until it is completely cooked, about 7–8 minutes. Stir in the remaining Café Spice Garam Masala, the fresh coriander leaves, and butter, if using, and mix well. Taste for seasoning and add more salt if needed. Serve hot.


Tandoori Spiced Roasted Chicken Murg Tandoori

Known as the “King of the Kebab,” tandoori chicken is the best-known Indian delicacy and the tastiest way to barbecue chicken. The chicken should be marinated for at least four hours, but the longer you marinate the chicken, the better it tastes. The use of red food coloring, which creates the unique red color for which this dish is known, is optional. I’ve included instructions for roasting the chicken pieces in the oven or grilling them on a gas or charcoal grill, which will create a more authentic flavor.

Serves 4

Prep time: 20 minutes plus 4 hours for marinating

Cook time: 30 minutes

1 whole chicken, approximately 3½ to 4 lbs (1.6–1.75 kg), skinned, or 3½ to 4 lbs (1.6–1.75 kg) bone-in chicken pieces of your choice, skinned

1 teaspoon Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon paprika

3 teaspoons salt

Juice of 1 lemon

4 tablespoons malt vinegar

⅓ cup (90 g) plain yogurt

½ cup (125 ml) heavy cream

1 piece fresh ginger, 2-in (5-cm), peeled and coarsely chopped

4 tablespoons coarsely chopped garlic

1 fresh green chili pepper, coarsely chopped

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon Café Spice Garam Masala (page 22)

1 teaspoon saffron threads

1 drop red food coloring (optional)

1 cup (2 sticks/225 g) melted butter, for basting

4 lime wedges

Mint Chutney (page 27), for serving

If using a whole chicken, cut the chicken into four parts, following the tip below.

Using a cleaver or a large chef’s knife, cut the legs into two pieces (thigh and drumstick) and the breasts into four pieces. If cutting the legs in two is too daunting, just leave them whole. Cut slits 2-in (5-cm) long, and deep enough to reach the bone, into each side in the leg pieces. Make similar slits on the breast pieces.

Mix together the Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper, paprika, salt, lemon juice, and vinegar in a small bowl to make paste. Rub the paste over the chicken pieces evenly and into the slits. Set aside to marinate for 15–20 minutes.

Place the yogurt, cream, ginger, garlic, green chili pepper, cumin, Café Spice Garam Masala, saffron, and food coloring in a food processor or blender and process to make a smooth paste. Rub the chicken pieces with this yogurt mixture, making sure the marinade goes into the slits in the chicken. Let marinate in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours or overnight.

To roast the chicken: Preheat the oven to its highest setting. Take the chicken out of the marinade and place it on a rack in a rectangular baking pan or roaster. Roast the chicken for 25–30 minutes or until done. This technique is called bhunnana. Baste the chicken pieces with the melted butter during the roasting process. Serve garnished with lime wedges.

To grill the chicken: Set up the grill for cooking with two heat zones—high and medium—and preheat. (Note: The larger pieces of chicken will cook more slowly than the smaller ones. To have perfectly cooked chicken pieces that are all done at the same time, it is best to use two heat zones.) As the smaller pieces become cooked, move them to the low-heat side of the grill to keep them warm while the larger pieces continue to cook. If your grill doesn’t have the capability to create multiple heat zones, simply put the large chicken pieces on first, followed by the smaller pieces. Cook the chicken pieces for about 10–15 minutes, then turn and cook the other side. Baste the chicken pieces with the melted butter during the grilling process. In about 25–30 minutes, the chicken should be cooked.
As the chicken cooks, it becomes firmer. To judge doneness, look for good color and firmer meat on the bottom side of the chicken. To be completely sure of doneness, cook until the internal temperature reaches 165 F° (74°C).

TIPS FOR CUTTING WHOLE CHICKEN AND CHICKEN PIECES—There are different ways to quarter a whole chicken, but the easiest and fastest is to start with the legs. Take a leg in your hand and feel along it until you find the upper joint between the thighbone and leg. This feels like an indentation in the bone. Using a sharp, large knife, cut at the joint. The leg will separate from the breast with ease. Repeat with the other leg. Cut the chicken in half down the center, through the middle of the breast plate. You will now have 4 large pieces.

CUTTING BONE-IN CHICKEN PIECES—Cutting breasts, thighs, and legs into smaller segments isn’t difficult. All you need is a large, sharp knife. Legs, owing to their thicker bone, cause a greater challenge and can be more easily cut with a sturdy cleaver. If cutting the legs in two is too daunting, simply leave them whole.


Curried Chicken Meatball Kofta Murg Masala

Use a smooth mince in this preparation to make the kofta (meatballs) smooth and full of flavor. This great, make-ahead recipe is perfect for a party or large crowd. Simple, easy, flavorful, and a crowd pleaser…you can’t go wrong with this one! I use ground chicken for these spicy fragrant meatballs, but you can use any other meat like beef, turkey, or lamb. If you have leftovers from dinner, use them in a wrap with some veggies and lettuce for the next day’s lunch.

Serves 4

Prep time: 25 minutes

Cook time: 30 minutes

1½ lbs (750 g) ground chicken

1 bunch fresh coriander (cilantro) leaves and stalks (about 4 oz/125 g), chopped

2 onion (about 1.5 lbs/750 g), minced

¾ teaspoon Café Spice Garam Masala (page 22)

2 tablespoons minced ginger

2 tablespoons minced garlic

1 large egg, whisked

½ cup (45 g) dried bread crumbs

½ teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons oil

½ teaspoon fennel seeds

2 bay leaves

1 cinnamon stick, ½-in (1.25-cm)

2 tomatoes (about ¾ lb/350 g), finely chopped

1 tablespoon tomato ketchup

3½ cups (875 ml) water

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper

2 teaspoons ground coriander

Salt, to taste

Combine the ground chicken, half the coriander leaves and stalks, half the onions, Garam Masala, half the minced ginger and garlic, egg, bread crumbs, and salt in a large mixing bowl. Mix well using your hands.

Dip your hands in water and form about 30 meatballs, each about the size of a golf ball. Placed on a prepared tray, cover with plastic wrap, and place in the refrigerator for 15 minutes to chill.

Heat the oil in a large, deep nonstick saucepan over medium heat. Add the fennel seeds, bay leaves, cinnamon, and remaining chopped onion and cook, stirring often, until the onion is golden brown, about 5 minutes.

Add the finely chopped tomatoes and remaining ginger and garlic to the pan. Cook, stirring over a medium heat until the oil comes to the surface, about 7–8 minutes. Add 1 cup (250 ml) of the water and continue cooking until all the water has evaporated. Stir-fry this paste for about 3 minutes and then add the ground spices and salt. Add the remaining water, cover, bring to a boil and simmer for 5–6 minutes.

Add the meatballs to the pan, cover, and simmer for 15–20 minutes. Shake the pan every so often, but do not stir, as the meatballs could break. Add the remaining coriander leaves and stalks, stir the meatballs gently. Serve hot.


Easy Lamb Curry Masala Gosht

Lamb curry is an easy and flavorful dish that I usually make with bone-in loin chop. For this recipe however, I have called for a boneless leg of lamb to make it easier to eat. However, I do like a bone-in cut as the bones give extra flavor to the curry. This dish goes great with plain boiled or steamed rice. You may also serve this dish with any Indian breads such as Whole Wheat Griddle Bread (page 122) or Naan Bread (page 121). This version is quick and easy, and the addition of green chilies and coriander gives it extra zing.

Serves 6

Prep time: 15 minutes, plus 4 hours for marinating

Cook time: 30 minutes

½ cup (125 g) plain yogurt, whisked until smooth

4 tablespoons Ginger-Garlic Paste (page 22)

2 teaspoons Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

4 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)

2½ lbs (1 kg) boneless leg of lamb, cut into cubes, 1-in (2.5-cm)

3 tablespoons oil

3 red onions (about 1 lb/500 g) chopped

6 green cardamom pods

4 cloves

3 tomatoes (about 1 lb/500 g), finely chopped

10–12 curry leaves

3 teaspoons salt

3–4 cups (750 ml–1 liter) warm water

Put the yogurt, Ginger-Garlic Paste, red chili powder, turmeric, and 2 tablespoons of coriander leaves in a large bowl. Mix well. Add the meat to this mixture and mix well. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2–4 hours or overnight.

Heat the oil in a large, nonstick saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring until medium-brown, about 5–7 minutes. Add the cardamom pods and cloves and fry for 1 minute.

Add the meat with the marinade and cook for 8–10 minutes until the marinade is absorbed. Then sauté the meat, stirring continuously for about 5 minutes.

Add the tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes until the liquid is absorbed. Add the curry leaves and salt and warm water (depending on the consistency of gravy you require).

Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the lamb is tender and the sauce is thick, about 20–25 minutes. Serve hot, garnished with the remaining chopped coriander leaves.


Lamb and Spinach Saagwala Gosht

Spinach and lamb make great winter comfort food. You can add homemade cottage cheese or paneer as well. I have used chopped spinach for texture and appearance in this recipe, instead of puréed spinach.

Serves 6

Prep time: 15 minutes, plus 4 hours for marinating

Cook time: 30 minutes

1 cup (250 g) plain yogurt, whisked to smooth

4 tablespoons Ginger-Garlic Paste (page 22)

2 fresh green chili peppers, minced

1 teaspoon Café Spice Garam Masala (page 22)

2½ lbs (1 kg) boneless leg of lamb, cut into cubes, 1-in (2.5-cm)

¼ cup (65 ml) oil

1 cinnamon stick, ½-in (1.25-cm)

2 bay leaves

12 black cardamom pods

3 cloves

2 onion (about 1.5 lb/750 g), minced

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

2¼ cups (565 ml) water

3 tomatoes (about 1 lb/500 g), finely chopped

1 tablespoon tomato paste

2 teaspoons salt

4 cups (200 g) packed fresh spinach leaves, washed and chopped or 1½ cups (300 g) frozen chopped spinach, thawed

¼ teaspoon nutmeg powder

1 tablespoon unsalted butter (optional)

Place the yogurt, Ginger-Garlic Paste, green chili peppers, and Garam Masala in a large bowl and mix well. Add the meat to this mixture and mix well. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2–4 hours or overnight.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the cinnamon, bay leaves, cardamom, and cloves and stir-fry until fragrant, about 10–15 seconds. Add the onion. Sauté for 15 minutes over low to moderate heat.

Add the ground coriander and cumin and sauté for 2 minutes, stirring continuously. Add ¼ cup (65 ml) of the water and cook for another 2 minutes to ensure that the spices are cooked.

Add the meat along with its marinade, stir well, and cook over moderate heat for 10 minutes until the yogurt is absorbed. Sauté the meat for 3 minutes, stirring continuously. Add the tomatoes and tomato paste and cook for another 2–3 minutes.

Add the remaining 2 cups (500 ml) of water and the salt. Turn the heat to low, cover with a lid, and leave to simmer for about 20–25 minutes until the lamb is tender. Add the chopped spinach and mix well. Cook for 5 minutes, uncovered.

When ready to serve, sprinkle with a little nutmeg powder and top with the butter, if using. Serve hot.


Lamb Shank Korma Nalli Gosht Korma

Although, there are a lot of steps and ingredients in this recipe, the end result is well worth the trouble, and it tastes even better the next day (like all good curries should). You can vary the amount of chilies you use in this dish to keep it in line with your preferred amount of spice! Also, although this recipe calls for lamb shanks, you could very well use better cuts of meat; and the better the cut (be it a chop or a steak), the better the taste will be.

Serves 4

Prep time: 15 minutes

Cook time: 50 minutes

1 teaspoon saffron threads

1 tablespoon rosewater

½ cup (125 ml) oil

3 onions (about 2½ lbs/1 kg), thinly sliced

1 cup (100 g) slivered almonds

4 fresh green chili peppers, chopped

1 cinnamon stick, ½-in (1.25-cm)

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

3 tablespoons Ginger-Garlic Paste (page 22)

4 lamb shanks, about 1 lb (500 g) each, trimmed of visible fat

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon Café Spice Garam Masala (page 22)

Salt, to taste

2 teaspoons Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper

1 cup (230 g) thick, Greek-style plain yogurt or sour cream

4 cups (1 liter) water

¾ teaspoon ground mace

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

Juice of 1 lime

Soak the saffron strands in the rosewater for about 15–20 minutes.

Heat half the oil over medium-high heat in a large, thick-bottomed saucepan and stir-fry the onions until medium-brown. Add the almonds and continue to fry until the onions are deep brown, about 5–7 minutes. Using a spatula, extract the oil from the onions by pressing them against the side of the pot. Transfer the onions and almonds to a blender and purée to a smooth paste.

Heat the remaining oil and sauté the green chili peppers, cinnamon, cumin seeds, and Ginger-Garlic Paste until fragrant, 2–3 minutes. Turn up the heat, add the lamb shanks, and sear on all sides for about 3 minutes. Add the ground coriander, ½ teaspoon Garam Masala, the red chili powder, and the yogurt. Stir continuously for 3 minutes and leave to simmer until the yogurt is absorbed, about 10 minutes.

Add the fried onion purée and mix well. Add the water and simmer until the meat is tender, about 45–60 minutes. Add the remaining Garam Masala, ground mace, and ground cardamom and mix well. Before transferring to a serving dish, stir in the lime juice and the saffron-rose water.


Dried Bombay Beef

This delicious dish is a favorite among most of my friends. It can be served not just as a beer-snack when friends visit, but also as a main course dish with dosai. If you manage to get coconut cooking oil and use it as the medium for frying the beef, it will impart the perfect authentic flavor of Indian coastal cooking. If you have any leftovers (which is unlikely!), use them with some lettuce in a wrap or in a taco the next day for lunch.

Serves 4

Prep time: 30 minutes plus at least 6–8 hours to marinate the beef

Cook time: 30 minutes

1¼ to 1½ lbs (600 g to 750 g) beef fillet, cut into very thin strips

1 teaspoon Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon red chili flakes

1 piece of fresh ginger, 1-in (2.5-cm), peeled and grated

Salt, to taste

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons coconut oil (optional)

Oil, for deep-frying

1 red onion (about 5 oz/150 g), sliced

2 dried red chili peppers, broken in half

2 fresh green chili peppers, slit

1 teaspoon sugar

Juice of 2 limes

3 tablespoons rice flour

Mix the sliced beef with half the red chili powder, the chili flakes, ginger, salt, and pepper in a large bowl. Add the coconut oil, if using, and mix well. Let the meat marinate for 15–20 minutes before cooking.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat and add the onion, red chili peppers, green chili peppers, remaining red chili powder, and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring constantly, for 5–6 minutes until the onion is soft and translucent. Add the sugar and fry for a few more minutes until the onion begins to caramelize. Add the lime juice and take the pan off the heat.

Heat 2 inches (5 cm) of oil in a kadhai, small wok, or large saucepan over medium heat to 325°F (160°C) on a deep-fry or a candy thermometer. Toss the beef in the rice flour until evenly coated, then deep-fry in batches for 2–3 minutes until brown and crisp. Drain on a plate lined with paper towels. When all the beef has been cooked, toss the beef strips with the onion mixture and sliced chili. Transfer to a warm plate and serve immediately.


Pork Vindaloo

The term vindaloo derives from the Portuguese dish of meat, usually pork, prepared with vinegar and garlic. This curry is one of the many tasty, hot pork dishes originally from Goa, where the cooking style combines Portuguese influences, including the eating of pork, with fiery Indian flavors. What makes this dish unique is the combination of hot spices and vinegar. It tastes better if it is allowed to “pickle” for an entire day. Vindaloo is a popular dish in many parts of India. In the eastern states of Orissa and West Bengal, the same dish (not referred to as “vindaloo”) is prepared for celebratory events as well as for home dinners, though it is hotter and contains more potato. I recommend that you ask your butcher to leave some fat from the skin on the meat, as it imparts a good flavor to the sauce. This dish is best when served with Brown Basmati Rice (page 119) or crusty French bread. Although this recipe uses pork, the Chicken Vindaloo from Café Spice is also very popular.

Serves 4

Prep time: 30 minutes plus at least 6–8 hours to marinate the pork

Cook time: 30 minutes

1½ lbs (750 g) leg or shoulder of pork, cut into cubes, 1-in (2.5-cm)

2 tablespoons malt vinegar

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon sugar

2 teaspoons Café Spice Garam Masala (page 22)

3 fresh green chili peppers, minced

1 teaspoon salt, plus more if needed

¼ cup (65 ml) oil

1 onion (about 5 oz/150 g), chopped

1 cup (500 g) Vindaloo Curry Paste

¼ cup (65 ml) tomato purée

4 cups (1 liter) water

1 large potato (about 10 oz/300 g), peeled and diced

4 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)

VINDALOO CURRY PASTE

5 dried red chili peppers, crushed

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger

1 tablespoon minced garlic

½ teaspoon sugar

Salt, to taste

¼ cup (65 ml) white vinegar

In a large mixing bowl, add the pork cubes, vinegar, black pepper, sugar, Garam Masala, green chili peppers, and salt. Let the pork marinate in the refrigerator for a minimum of 6 hours, preferably overnight.

Prepare the Vindaloo Curry Paste by blending all the ingredients into a paste in a blender. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Add the onion and sauté over medium heat until golden brown, about 5–6 minutes. Add the Vindaloo Curry Paste and tomato purée and sauté until the fat separates from the masala, about 2 minutes. Add some water to prevent sticking, if needed.

Add the pork along with the marinade. Cook, stirring constantly, over high heat for 2 minutes. Add the water and bring to a boil. Add the potato, cover, and reduce the heat to low. Simmer until the pork is tender and potato is cooked, about 25–30 minutes. Check for seasoning and add more salt, if needed. Stir in the chopped fresh coriander leaves and serve hot.