Contents

Acknowledgments

A Note on Romanization and Terminology

Introduction

Prologue: A Stroke of the Pen

Part I

1. Origins: The Toisan–California Pipeline

2. The Culinary “Language” Barrier

3. “Celestials” on Gold Mountain

4. The Road to Chinatown

Part II

5. The Birth of Chinese American Cuisine

6. Change, Interchange, and the First Successful “Translators”

7. White America Rediscovers Chinese Cuisine

8. An Advancement of Learning

9. The First Age of Race-Blind Immigration

Postscript: What Might Have Been

Notes

Glossary

Bibliography

Index